Fig. 9.—Torgersen’s Handy Binding. Driving Belt and Straps. Half the sole is Driving Belt.
Fig. 9.—Torgersen’s Handy Binding. Driving Belt and Straps. Half the sole is Driving Belt.
Ellefsen’s Patent Binding(Fig. 10) is of the same class. It appeared last season (1904-5), and has scarcely been in use long enough to allow of exhaustive criticism.
As with Torgersen’s, the belting only reaches about half-way down the foot, where it is terminated by an iron cross-piece with upright cheeks fitting on either side of the heel (seeFig. 10). From these cheeks a strap leads round the back of the heel, by means of which the belting is pulled tight. This stretching of the belting is the novelty of the arrangement, and is very ingenious, as, of course, it prevents all buckling. The iron toe-pieces are much the same as in Huitfeld, but they are fixed firmly to the ski by means of the little metal tongues which are part of them. The tongues at the same time secure the driving belt under the toe, giving it due stiffness in a verticaldirection and preventing pressure of the toe strap. But obviously this is the weak spot of the front part of the arrangement, and unless the belting is of the very best quality it is liable to tear there. The makers, however, claim that the best belting will not tear, and time alone can decide whether this is so or not. The binding is not readily adjustable, and when ordering it is necessary to send a sketch of the boot which one intends to use with it.
Fig. 10.—Ellefsen’s Patent Binding.The figure with the boot also shows a little strap sewn on to the heel of the boot to prevent the heel straps slipping off. This is very useful with all the above-named fastenings. Seeinfra, pp. 47 and 48.
Fig. 10.—Ellefsen’s Patent Binding.
The figure with the boot also shows a little strap sewn on to the heel of the boot to prevent the heel straps slipping off. This is very useful with all the above-named fastenings. Seeinfra, pp. 47 and 48.
TheLilienfeld Bindinghas caused more discussion and provoked more criticism than any other. It, too, is on the “sole” principle, but differs from all others in this respect, that (except for the heel and toe straps) it is made entirely of metal.
The vertical axis of the sole is, moreover, placedin frontof the toe, and not under it as in other fastenings, and vertical stiffness is secured by means of a very ingenious spring arrangement embedded in the ski. This shifting of the axis forward makes the binding feel curious at first, but one gets accustomed to it after a while, and then it becomes very comfortable and pleasant. An objection to the plan is, however, that one is deprived of much control over the heel of the ski, and is placed, so to speak, at the mercy of the spring. It is, however, often convenient to raise the heel of the ski when going up hill, and it is annoying to find when one tries to do so that it refuses toobey on account of the spring being insufficiently screwed up. On the other hand, if the spring be tight the heel keeps “clappering” up and down at every step. Another decidedly bad point about this fastening is its weight. It is unquestionably heavy. It is necessary, therefore, to use a considerably lighter ski with it than with any of the ordinary arrangements, and light ski are apt to be brittle. It is, however, a very powerful binding, very suitable for making “S” turns on steep and difficult ground. It seldom or never breaks, and it is adjustable to almost any boot. It is usually sold fitted to a special ski with a hole in it cut for the spring. The so-called “Alpine skee” is shortish, broadish, and flat-bottomed, with a sharply turned-up bluff entrance. These qualities render it less suitable for straight running, but useful for turning on the mountain-side, for which special purpose it is, indeed, designed. People somewhat advanced in years will find the “Alpine skee,” with its special fastening, of value for mountain tours, and it is, we think, easier to learn to turn on it than on any other; but your dashing youth and your jumper will certainly prefer the Norwegian article. Of course, the Lilienfeld fastening can be fixed to a Telemark ski.
Fig. 11.—The Lilienfeld Binding. “Alpine Skee.” Movable Steel Sole.
Fig. 11.—The Lilienfeld Binding. “Alpine Skee.” Movable Steel Sole.
The right way of attaching all the above-named bindings to the boot will have been evident from the descriptions appended to each. It is sufficient to observe here that the straps (and particularly the toe-straps) should never be pulled tighter than occasion demands. Tight straps are the surest road to frost-bite,besides being very uncomfortable. For all ordinary going—that is to say, during far the greater length of time that the ski are on the feet—the straps may be worn comparatively loose. It is quite easy to tighten them up for a difficult piece of ground or a jump, and there is no occasion to run unnecessary risks.
Another important matter is that with all ordinary bindings care should be taken not to thrust the foot too far into the toe-strap. The toe-strap should never cross the foot lower than the middle of the great toe. People are apt to neglect this simple precaution, but in doing so they run the risk of spraining the foot in the event of a fall forwards. In the case of the Lilienfeld binding, it is not necessary to be quite so careful, as with it the vertical axis is in front of the foot.
The beginner who has read the above remarks probably realises by now thatthere is no such thing as a perfect ski binding which will satisfy everybody! Some people want extreme lateral rigidity, others a little play, and others, again, comparative looseness. It is much the same with the vertical movement; if very stiff there is great control, valuable for jumping and for lifting the heel in steep hill climbing, but the ski “clappers” on the level. If very loose, the toe has to carry too much weight,6and the advantages of stiffness vanish. There can really be no such thing as a happy mean in these matters, and everybody must choose that which on the whole is best suited to his requirements. Nor can any form of fastening last for ever, and the most that one can expect is that a binding should not be continually giving way. Do not, therefore, begin by worrying yourself too much about this part of your equipment. Buy one or other of the bindings depicted above which you think will suit you best, and learn all about its little peculiarities and something about ski-running before you decide that it is no good. Above all things, avoid boring your more experienced friends with binding talk, of which they have all had enough and to spare.
In order to protect the ski and to prevent snow adhering to it under the foot it is necessary to fix some sort of anti-sticking material to that part which is touched by the boot; and a thin plate of some non-corrosive metal is best for this purpose; the india-rubber or seal’s skin commonly sold are of little use, and soon wear out.
The stick is a good servant, but a bad master. It is little used by first-class runners, except to enable them to increase the speed by punting. There can, however, be no doubt that it greatly assists a beginner in preserving his balance on difficult ground and in turning. On the other hand, it is equally certain that it is frequently the cause of his adopting a bad style, of spoiling his balance, and of hindering or entirely blocking his progress in the art of turning. To jump with a stick in the hand is most dangerous, and, of course, there is always the possibility of the stick being lost or broken on tour.
Accordingly there are those who recommend the beginner to leave this part of his outfit at home; and much is to be said in favour of such advice, especially in the case of a young and active pupil. When, however, it is argued that anybody who can go on ski without a stick will not have any difficulty in subsequently taking to one, we venture to differ. Perhaps in rare cases it may be so, but we have had a somewhat extensive experience of beginners of all ages, and we have always found it otherwise. The novice who has learnt without a stick seems to be greatly embarrassed when one is first placed in his hand. Moreover, we have met not a few ski-runners, no longer novices, who make very pretty Telemark and Christiania swings on the practice ground with hands free, but who break down hopelessly on tour when encumbered with a stick. But everybody is agreed that a stick of some sort or other should be taken on tour, and we fail to see the use of these pretty manœuvres if they cannot be accomplished when really most required. This, however, is far from being the whole case for the pole. What is your poorelderly friend to do when he tumbles in deep snow? It frequently requires considerable activity to get up under such circumstances, and what is here mentioned half in jest might really be an ugly matter. Besides, nobody over twenty-five can be expected to enjoy continual struggling head downwards. People get exhausted, people begin to think that it is impossible to learn, and people take to some inferior sport which they find easier, and therefore more amusing. Did you mutter “Let them go”? Nay; but there we touch the very root of the matter. Is ski-running merely a pretty form of athletics for the few, or is it a noble sport for the people, leading them forth from stuffy houses and narrow roads to the glories of the winter landscape? Surely the latter; and we would rather the runner sat on his pole at every hill and visited the woods and mountains than that he was the cleverest performer on the practice ground and went nowhere else. “But,” it is said, “if the beginner accustoms himself to run with a stick in his hand he will be quite helpless when he loses it or breaks it, or when he wishes to jump.” This is, of course, to some extent true, but the case is not so bad as all that. In reality, as above hinted, it is a good deal easier to run without a stick than with one after a certain stage has been reached; our experience is that the more advanced pupil soon learns to appreciate this, and that the transition from stick to no stick is seldom difficult. Besides, there is no reason to carry matters to extremes andneverto practise with the arms free.
Thorwald Hansen.King’s Prizeman, Norway, ’05.Photo by Th. Thorkelsen.
Thorwald Hansen.King’s Prizeman, Norway, ’05.
Photo by Th. Thorkelsen.
Our advice, then, is:—Begin by carrying a stick in the hand, but use it only to overcome a difficulty. Endeavour to be as independent of it as possible, and practise sometimes without it.
Shall the ski-runner use two sticks or one? and shall it or they be furnished with a basket arrangement at the end (see Fig. 12)? These are questions which have also been much discussed, and frequently rather unprofitably. We think that it all depends on circumstances. Two light bamboos with wicker-work discs (NorwegianTrindser) at the end are very serviceable when one has got beyond the beginner’s stage. They help one up hill and along the level, and down hill they may be trailed behind in each hand, or on difficult ground held together and used as one. The discs are, of course, intended to prevent thepoint penetrating the snow to too great a depth—notto act as brakes. But on very steep and hard mountain sides where one may find oneself—sometimes with a precipice below—they are far from being a source of comfort. On such occasions one prefers to have a single stout staff, which one can thrust deeply into the snow, and which one knows will not slip or break. And in general we have not found two sticks to be of much service in the high Alps, though for lower excursions in Switzerland and in the Black Forest and everywhere in Norway we prefer them. The novice, however, should, we think,beginwith a simple staff of good ash or other strong wood, without any disc at the end. He is sure to require to use his stick to some extent (indeed, we shall advise him lower down to do so), and he would probably only break light double sticks. He should get into the habit of holding his stick in either hand, and should begin to practise with two as soon as he thinks he is far enough advanced to do so. In choosing his stick he will select one about as long as from the ground to the top of his shoulder. It should be furnished with a metal ferrule and a spike at the lower end, and abroadleather loop at the top for the hand.
Fig. 12.—Disc for bottom of ski stick, attached by metal ears. Staub of Zürich’s pattern.
Fig. 12.—Disc for bottom of ski stick, attached by metal ears. Staub of Zürich’s pattern.
The double bamboo sticks should also be about as long as from the ground to the shoulder. They are best out from the root end of the plant, where it is strongest; the root also serves as a convenient lump for the hand to hold. The discs are best attached by a metal arrangement, as shown inFig. 12, and notby boring a hole in the cane and passing a piece of leather through it, as is common in Norway. The one method holds for a long time; the other breaks very soon.
This is a very important part of a ski-runner’s outfit, and too much attention cannot be paid to it. Nevertheless, nothing is commoner in Switzerland than to see the early efforts of beginners enormously handicapped by unsuitable boots. English ladies, particularly, seem to find it difficult to make up their minds to spend the necessary amount of money on a suitable pair, and usually appear in thin, high-heeled shoes covered by “gouties.” But the acme of thoughtlessness was in our experience achieved by a man who went out in patent-leather boots and openwork silk socks! The consequences were, of course, frost-bite, and he narrowly escaped losing a few toes.
A strongly made, waterproof, low-heeled boot is a necessity, and with most modern bindings the sole should be not less than half an inch thick. It should be roomy enough to permit ofat leastthree pairs of extra thick socks being worn, and there should be plenty of room for the toes to “waggle.” With bindings such as Huitfeldt’s it is better not to have the toe cut too square, for a more or less wedge-shaped end fits better into the toe-irons. In order to resist the pressure of the toe-strap it is best to have the leather extra thick in front. The boot should fit fairly tightly round the ankle and instep, for reasonable firmness at this point does not interfere with the circulation, and is of value in preventing sprained ankles and chafed heels. With Ellefsen’s binding, where there are no straps across that part of the foot, this is of special importance. Nothing is gained by wearing a sloppy sort of boot and subsequently imprisoning the foot in tight and narrow straps. The strain of moving the ski has to be borne somewhere, and it is best to distribute it evenly where it is least felt. In order to prevent the heel straps slipping down it is strongly advisable with all the bindings mentioned above (except the Lilienfeld) to have a small strong strap and buckle sewn to the heel of the boots. The buckle should point upwards, and should be fixed quite close. The end of thestrap then points downwards, and is useful as a sort of shoehorn for pulling on the binding.
For Switzerland we would advise the addition of afewnails to the sole of the boot. They prevent any slipping about on icy places round the house, and they make all the difference to one’s happiness in climbing on foot over a pass, or the last few yards of some rocky and icy summit. They are not, however, to be recommended in Norway, where nobody wears them. Not but what there is plenty of ice round the hotels and sanatoria there, but in that country custom is everything, and it is better to bear with a bump or two than to offend.
In the Black Forest ski boots are often made of dog or calf skin, with the hair left onoutside. An inner coating of hair is often added, but this we think is a mistake, as it is difficult to dry after use. The exterior coating of hair is, however, a great protection against cold. It wears out in course of time, and then the thing to do is to follow the classical example of the King of the Jews and buy another pair.
Arctic explorers and others who go to very cold places are unanimous as to the virtues of outside hair, and various devices exist to enable the runner to fix a covering of it over his ordinary boots. These inventions are, however, apt to be too bulky, or to fill up with snow, or to be cut by a nailed boot, and we cannot recommend any we have seen. A very simple plan is, however, to nail a piece of skin (or canvas-covered felt) to the ski in front of the foot, and to pass it between the toe-strap and the boot. It should be wide enough and long enough to cover the toes, but not, of course, so wide as to project and act as a brake. This little dodge helps to keep the toes warm, not only by the extra covering which it affords, but also by distributing the pressure of the toe-strap over a greater surface; it also to some extent prevents snow collecting under the toes and forming an uncomfortable lump there.
Boots should be greased now and again, but in moderation, for excessive greasing is said to cause cold feet. The boots should be warmed (with hot water or otherwise) before the grease is applied. Castor oil is excellent for this purpose.
The best kind of socks to wear are very thick ones made ofgoat’s hair; but nowadays they are difficult to get. In Norway so-called “Ragge Sokker” are no longer made of pure material, and the modern imitation is harsh and uncomfortable. Thick woollen socks known as “Ladder” are now largely used, and a pair of these over a good ordinary sock are sufficient for most purposes. It is, however, always advisable to take a dry pair in one’s rucksack, for, however waterproof one’s boots may be, a considerable amount of moisture always accumulates inside them. This is due to the condensation of perspiration against the cold outer surface of the boot, and is most dangerous in very cold weather, when the leather freezes and its pores are choked by ice. When this occurs the toe-straps should be loosed and the toes should be kept moving. Frost-bite is very insidious, and is frequently quite unnoticed by the sufferer till he reaches home and it is too late. The consequences may be very serious, and it is impossible to be too much on one’s guard.
From the above it will be seen that there is plenty of room for improvement in the ski-runner’s footgear. We recommend a thick under-sock, a pair of good “Ladder,” a stout boot, fitting well about the ankle, but with plenty of room at the toes, and a piece of skin covering the toes and held in position by the toe strap. But, all the same, we frequently suffer from cold feet, and we wish somebody would invent something better.
Other clothes are of minor importance. Remember that the season and the snow are cold, that the latter melts, that the exercise is at times very violent, and then you are not likely to try wading trousers or an umbrella. The best clothes for ski-runners are, perhaps, knickerbockers and a double-breasted jacket. Choose a material of smooth texture, for woolly stuffs catch the snow, which soon forms into icy lumps, betraying the novice and melting unpleasantly in a warm room. All openings at the neck, sleeves, knees, and ankles must have an arrangement to fit closely to keep out the snow, which is apt to find its way in, especially in the earlier stages of practice. Let the cap, or soft felt hat, be provided with flaps, to protect the earsin a sharp breeze. The so-called St. Moritz cap is excellently adapted to the purpose. Thick woollen gloves, long enough to reach high above the wrist, are indispensable, and a second pair ought to be in the pocket as a change, for wet gloves in a cold wind are the surest road to frost-bite. Puttees are probably the best means to shut the top of the boot and to cover the stockings. Some sort of wind-jacket is necessary in the Norwegian mountains and elsewhere where strong winds prevail. A capital one is in use in Austria. It is made of very thin oil-silk in the form of a sort of smock-frock, with a hood at the back for the head. It weighs almost nothing, and is warmer than any sweater. With this and a pair of trousers of the same material one may laugh at the most biting wind that ever blew, and the dangers of a night out become greatly minimised.
TheRücksack—Norwegian Rypesæk—came originally from the Tyrol, and is by far the best means of carrying things. It should be made of stout waterproof canvas, and should be provided with broad shoulder-straps. We advise the novice to buy as good a one as he can afford; he will find it useful for other things besides ski-running.
Smoked Glasses, or some such device as that recommended below, will generally have to be worn above the tree-line to protect the eyes from snow-blindness. The precise nature of this complaint does not appear to be understood. It appears to be more prevalent in some countries than in others, and is not, we think, entirely a matter of intensity of light. It seems, for example, to be more dangerous in the Norwegian mountains than in Switzerland. Like frost-bite, it is insidious, and the patient frequently is not seriously inconvenienced till after the damage is done. Some people, too, are far more susceptible to it than others. Instead of smoked glass, which is liable to become dimmed by the condensation upon it of moisture, we prefer a simple oblong piece of leather, 6in. long and about 1in. broad, with two oval-shaped holes in it opposite the eyes, say, ½in. long by ⅜in. broad; a slit for the nose to hold it in position, and two pieces of string to bind it round the head.
In Derbyshire, November, ’04.Photo by C. R. Wingfield.
In Derbyshire, November, ’04.
Photo by C. R. Wingfield.
TheWater-bottleshould be of sufficient capacity; one to hold about a litre is convenient. It should be provided with a felt covering and a tight-fitting cork. What to put into it is a matter of choice, though much alcohol is not to be recommended. Personally we have given up compounding drinks of cold tea, sugar, and wine, for the reason that they are so nice that we drink more at a time than we should. Our companions, too, look at us with such longing eyes that it is difficult to resist their dumb appeal. Such a water-bottle is soon empty. Plain sugar and water is not so nice, but is very sustaining, the sugar being very rapidly digested, and a raw egg or two adds to the value of the compound. Dried prunes, acidulated drops, and other sweetmeats will be found very pleasant on a ski tour, even though one never touches them at other times. Louis Stevenson has observed that the hungrier a man is the more he appreciates delicacies, so do not let your luncheon consist entirely of plain beef sandwiches. Remember, too, that it is better to eat little and often than largely and all at once.
Some sort of Repairing Outfitand a spare ski tip should always be taken with one. There are little light metal tips on the market made to fit over a broken ski which are very useful. The kind that fixes with a screw is best, as the other is apt to come off. If, however, one has the latter, a small screw-nail through it would keep it in place. With one of these tips, and the means of making an improvised binding with a few screw eyes and nails, a washer or two, and some straps, the runner should be able to get home easily enough wherever his ski may break. The reader must use his ingenuity in such matters, remembering always that it is impossible to execute very elaborate repairs with cold fingers.
There are other odds and ends more or less useful on tour, a description of which will be found in any dealer’s list.
We would very strongly recommend the beginner to make his first efforts on some one or other of the good snow conditions described on pp. 21 and 22. Freshly fallen deep snow is especially to be avoided, for not only does it afford heavy and difficult going, but a fall in it is apt to be dangerous. This is, of course, the reverse of what one would expect; but what happens is that the ski sink in deeply, and in the event of a fall they are apt to stick and sprain the ankle or knee. The firmer the snow the better it is, provided always that it be of sufficient depth and that it be fair snow, and not ice-crust.
All things considered, we would advise the beginner to learn to go slowly before he learns to go fast. That is to say, as soon as he can run straight fairly well, we would have him learn how to regulate his speed and steer by means of what is known as “stemming” (seeinfra, p. 69). In practising this movement he will at the same time learn how to balance himself with the weight on one foot, a necessary accomplishment; for, though in ski-running both ski are usually kept on the ground,the weight is nearly always mainly on one foot. It is well to pause and try to appreciate this very important fact before reading further.
After he has learnt something of stemming, and provided that he has followed our instructions and used his pole as little as possible (and then only as we direct), he should not find much difficulty in acquiring some speed in glissading. He should then begin to take short tours of, say, an hour or two’s duration, gradually lengthening them as his proficiency increases.He should when on tour endeavour to apply the knowledge which he has gained on the practice ground, and on the practice ground he should try to overcome those difficulties which he has encountered on tour.There is no sense in keeping on climbing up and sliding straight down the same easy hill; yet such is the commonest form of ski-ing at fashionable Swiss winter resorts!
As soon as the beginner can “turn on the spot,” run straight fairly well, and “stem,” hecan(we do not say heshould) go where he pleases. He will, however, remain slow and awkward, and he will miss a great deal of the beauty of the sport if he rests content with these easy accomplishments. We trust that he will be of a more ambitious disposition, and that he will proceed to the mastery of the “S” turn and of the “Telemark” and “Christiania” swings; and we strongly recommend him to learn something of jumping, not only on account of the amusement which he will certainly derive from it, but because it is the very best means of gaining a good balance for ordinary running.
It is of the greatest importance to cultivate a freedom and elasticity of movement and position. The muscles should be as strong as iron, but as flexible as rope. The knees should be pliant, and should act like the springs of a carriage in relation to the rest of the body. Be watchful, but courageous, and try hard not to fall.
Lean forward is the watchword of the ski-runner, and it is just as well to explain what is meant by it before proceeding further.
Place your ski parallel, one about a foot in front of the other, and throw the body forward as much as possible; one ought to feel as if about to fall on one’s nose. To the onlooker one seems to be standing on theentiresole of the foot, but in reality all the weight rests on the front part and the toes. Thus, stand erect on the ski, the knees a little bent, and then lean forward without bending any part of your body (especially not the region of the hips) and without raising the heel; then you ought to feel what is meant. Never assume a position as if sitting down or about to do so, because that would press down the heel. Every violation of this great rule of leaning forward is punished by the ski “bolting” from under one.
To lift the point of the ski seems a very simple matter, but it is at least ten to one that the novice will do it wrong.Press the heel of the ski down on the ground with your heel, and lift the point upwards with your toe.Do not raise any part of your foot from the ski.
Fig. 13.—Turning on the Spot.
Fig. 13.—Turning on the Spot.
To lift the heel of the ski reverse the above. Here it will not be possible to keep the heel of the foot on the heel of the ski, but the binding will raise the latter from the ground to some extent.
Turning on the spot is a puzzle to the beginner, though simple when shown.
Lift one ski straight to the front (see Fig. 13(1)), putting the heel end as far away from you as you can, then turn it outwards and away from you smartly, swinging the point right round and leaving the heel resting on the snow, then put it down, point by heel, alongside of the other ski. This twisted position (Fig. 13(2)) is the only difficulty, but very few attempts will soon show that it is not so bad or cramped as it seemed at first. In this position hold the knees slightly bent. Lastly,raise the pointof the other ski and swing it round. You will find it easier to learn this movement with the assistance of your stick, which should first be held obliquely across the body, pointing in the opposite direction to that in which you are turning. Then after assuming position (2) shift it across as in (3), and lastly swing round the other ski. As soon as you are proficient with the help of the stick practise without it—and, of course, both to right and to left. It is not necessary to stand on the snow in order to learn these movements. The carpet will do, but remove all Dresden china from the immediate neighbourhood.
Walking with ski on the level differs from ordinary walking or skating in this, thatone must not strike out, there being no fulcrum or point of resistance. Keep the skiparallelandas close together as possible(closer than shown in the diagram), for a narrow spoor has many advantages, besides being “good form.” Throw the weight of the body forward andslide on the advanced leg; the “hind” leg must be absolutelydisengaged—that is to say, do not strike out by trying to press the snow with it. Begin with long, slow steps, lunging forward with bent knee (Fig 14). Do not lift the ski from the ground, but slide along regularly and conscientiously; do not hurry or flurry, but save your breath. In one’s first steps one must specially cultivate precision, sliding forward with ski exactly parallel, and distributing the weight properly. Lean forward! slide!7
Fig. 14.—On the Level.The ski should be kept closer together than shown. The closer the better.
Fig. 14.—On the Level.
The ski should be kept closer together than shown. The closer the better.
A single stick on the level is of but little service, but with two sticks the pace can be considerably increased, especially on a good firm surface. Both sticks should be thrown forward simultaneously, and the slide on the advanced leg accelerated by a vigorous push with both arms. When proceeding in this way it is well to observe some kind of rhythm; and, as the snow is seldom slippery enough to admit of a push at each step, one should run, for example, one, two, three steps (swinging the sticks forward), and then push with the arms, sliding on, say, the right leg; then run one, two, three steps and push, sliding on the left leg, and so on.
To the laity it is a matter for wonder how it is possible to climb any considerable hill at all on ski. We rememberwell the look of polite incredulity which passed across the face of a mountaineering friend some years ago when we told him that a certain well-known pass in the Alps had been traversed in winter. He had tried ski himself, but had made very little of them, and the pass in question is a stiff one to negotiate even in summer. But now long climbs on ski in winter have become so common that it is unnecessary to pursue the subject further than to quote the classical observation of Olaus Magnus, “There exists no mountain, however high, which by means of cunning by-ways he (the ski-runner) cannot surmount.”
A Stiff Climb.Photo by E. C. Richardson.
A Stiff Climb.
Photo by E. C. Richardson.
It is, however, well to observe here that some of the accounts of the ease with which one can climb hills on ski have been exaggerated. In rare conditions of perfect snow one may perhaps ascend as quickly as in summer, but, roughly speaking, it may be said that ski are about twenty-five per cent. slower up-hill than boots. We are here, of course, speaking of climbing a steep mountain where it is necessary to zig-zag (seeinfra), and not of walking straight up a moderate slope. Moreover, whether we slide the ski upwards in winter or whether we carry a corresponding weight on our backs in summer, the fact remains that some 10lb. or so have to be raised so many feet, and we are handicapped to that extent. Where ski really have the advantage is after the summit has been reached—of which more anon.
Up to a certain degree of steepness (varying with the quality of the snow) there is little or no difference between the methods used for climbing and for walking on the level. Snow is not an absolutely slippery substance, and the ski always adhere to it to some extent. There comes, however, very soon a point beyond which we can no longer slide as on the level, and shortly after-wards another, where the force of gravity overcomes the “stickiness” of the snow and we begin to slip back. These points are very different with the expert and the beginner, and the former will slide easily straight up a slope upon which the latter will slip hopelessly.
In ascending a steep incline the art lies (1) in knowing (and only experience can teach one) just how steeply one can go without a slip; (2) in the correct placing of the ski in the snow;and (3) in the correct balancing of the body upon the ski when so placed. The correct placing of the ski is not a difficult matter. The secret lies in raising the point of the ski (p. 53) an inch or two from the ground and bringing itstraightdown with afirmstamp. The stamp is at first nearly always made too gently by ladies and too hard by men. Imagine you are cracking a walnut—that will be about right. Remember thatwhere the foot is brought down there it must stop. If it slips even the least tiny bit you must stamp again.
Fig. 15.—Climbing a slope.—s= the fall of the slope;t= turn here. The shaded parts are obstructions (rocks, thick growth, &c.).
Fig. 15.—Climbing a slope.—s= the fall of the slope;t= turn here. The shaded parts are obstructions (rocks, thick growth, &c.).
Next bring the weight forward as evenly as possible on to the ski you have stamped, and advance the other leg. In doing so take the greatest care to balance the weight of the bodystraight overthe stamped ski; lean neither backwards nor forwards, or you are certain to slip.
In hill-climbing it is, of course, expedient to go as steeply as possible, but the beginner will find that it pays best to take things easily at first, as a single slip backwards is more exhausting than twenty steps forwards.
To negotiate a steep slope one must go across and upward at a convenient angle, making a zig-zag track, as an engineer would plan a good mountain road (Fig 15). Turn at the corners as described, p. 55, and when so doing remember to assume a safestanding position, for a slip on a steep slope may be attended by unpleasant consequences. The correct position in which to stand before turning is clearly with the ski horizontally in space—that is to say, at right angles to the direction of the gradient; then one cannot slip while engrossed in the task.
Fig. 16.—“Herring-boning.”—The figure is in the act of lifting the right ski over the heel of the left. The light lines are his tracks.Note.—Swing the body well, as shown.
Fig. 16.—“Herring-boning.”—The figure is in the act of lifting the right ski over the heel of the left. The light lines are his tracks.
Note.—Swing the body well, as shown.
Fig. 17.—Hill climbing sideways.—Used only on very steep slopes. The light lines are old tracks.
Fig. 17.—Hill climbing sideways.—Used only on very steep slopes. The light lines are old tracks.
The diagrams on page 59 show two other methods of hill-climbing which are chiefly useful for short slopes. They are both too fatiguing to be employed for any length of time. A modification of the style shown inFig. 17is, however, very useful, especially on crusted snow. It consists in going forwards and upwards at the same time, lifting the ski at every step. This is not so very tiring, and may on a hard surface be kept up for a considerable length of time without undue fatigue. The track formed will appear as under.
It is important when proceeding in this way to remember, when lifting theupperski,to raise its heel from the snow(see p. 55)and place it well up-hill in a horizontal position. Most beginners move only the front part of the ski, and place it in the snow with the heel pointing down hill. Even if the upper ski does not slip in this wrong position (as usually happens), the lower ski, when it comes to be lifted, is sure to be placed across the heel of the upper ski, imprisoning it and preventing the next step being taken. You are certain to make this mistake very frequently at first, and it will land you in all sorts of difficulties and entanglements, but do not forget that we warned you against it.
A single stick is not of any very positive assistance up-hill, though it has a negative value onverysteep ground both in aiding the balance and in giving a feeling of security against slipping. In traversing a slope it should be held across the body with the point touching the snow on the upper side. The beginner will also find it useful to assist him in rising to his feet after a fall. He should, however, entirely abandon all idea of pulling himself up-hill with his stick; to do so is quite impossible. Balance is what is required,plusa little thigh muscle, which will come with practice.
Two sticks are, however, of considerable help, especially on moderate slopes up which it is possible to go straight. Theyshould be placed in the snow alternately, after the manner which nature dictates. In traversing steep ground they cease to be of service, for the lower one is not long enough to reach the slope below one’s feet, and the upper one cannot be used effectively on the bank at one’s side. Under such circumstances it is better, and safer, to hold them together and to use them as one, as described above.
In general for long climbs it is best to go comparatively slowly and to “keep at it.” The speed of a party should be that of the slowest man. If you happen to be that unfortunate individual, don’t lag behind if you can help it, but don’t hesitate to shout to the others if they are going too fast for you. If, however, they are novices and persist in rushing, slow down and go your own pace. It is not at all improbable that if you go steadily you may be the first at the top, after all; but even if you arrive twenty minutes later than the others you are in no wise dishonoured.
Strictly between ourselves, we rather like to be last man, and to allow our more energetic friends to go on ahead. The last man has far the easiest place on a newly made track, and we do not thirst for the glory of breaking the snow.
But, of course, a properly organised party should keep together, and its members should take it in turns to go ahead. It is in itself a pleasure to move steadily upwards in this way, the ski and the sticks keeping time, and it makes the way seem shorter and easier for everybody.
One concluding word of advice may here be given. Eat your lunch some little distance below your intended highest point. The tops of mountains and passes are apt to be draughty, and, besides, it is much better to begin the run down when the muscles are warm and supple than to wait till after they have turned cold and stiff from sitting about.
Gliding down is the characteristic part of ski-running, as distinct from the use of pattens, Canadian snow-shoes, &c. It is the reward reaped after the labours of the climb. The ascent is, indeed, a struggle against gravity, but the descent isthe highest advantage that any physical exercise can safely derive from terrestrial attraction.
Let us imagine ourselves on the top of some long Norwegian mountain ready for the plunge. There is a clear course between the steep rocks near the top, and an open run across the glacier below to the terminal moraine a mile off. We can see every yard of the way, and all is fair going, yet we feel just the merest tinge of nervousness, for the incline is steep, and looks steeper than it is. But there is really no danger, so it is over the edge and off! In an instant all fears are left behind, for now balance and quickness of eye are to be put to the test, and the wind is whistling and the snow dust spurting. We whiz past the rocks and over a few inequalities, negotiated here by a spring and a flight of a few yards through the air and there by a compensating yielding of the knees. Now we rush out on to the smooth surface of the glacier, where there is no jar and no vibration. Our feet seem to have vanished, and we lean, as it were, in space, with the ice-wind pressed against us. There is no more need for balancing, and no thought of falling, so even is the motion and so trustworthy the snow. Smoothly our wooden wings bear us onwards, and the furlongs lie behind! But the end approaches, the slope becomes less steep, the pace slackens, and presently we glide gently up the opposite slope of the moraine and turn to watch our companions.
Such is the best picture we can give you of a good straight glissade on ski; but there is not the slightest reason, friend novice, why you yourself should not enjoy the reality ere long. You must, however, learn to walk before you can run, and we would have you make your first attempts on some quite easy slope, removed if possible from the public gaze. A few obstacles, such as trees, scattered about do not matter, as you are not in the least likely to run into them, and they serve to accustom the eye to their presence. If possible, let there be a gradual outrun at the bottom of the hill. Practise there awhile, and as soon as you can run down without a fall move on somewhere else to a place where the ground is steeper and more uneven.
To start on steep ground is a little difficult at first. Stand horizontally to the direction of the slope. Thenas quickly aspossiblelift round first the lower and then the upper ski. Lean forward and off! If you are quick and lean forward, the ski will not bolt from under you; if you are slow and hang back, they will.
Fig. 18.—Gliding on ski.—1. Correct position; 2 and 3. Dangerous and incorrect.
Fig. 18.—Gliding on ski.—1. Correct position; 2 and 3. Dangerous and incorrect.
The correct position for descending a hill is that shown inFig. 18(1) above. Keep the ski parallel andas close together as you can(touching if possible), advance one foot about twelve inches, and let the main weight of the body rest on the ball ofthe “hind” foot; feel your way, so to speak, with the front foot.Lean forward. Bend the knees slightly, and be as free and as elastic about them as possible.Practise with either foot leading. Avoid any affected and ridiculous pose. Do not, for example, if you are running without a stick, hold the arms straight out from the body as though you were walking a tight-rope. To do so may slightly assist the balance, but you cannot run like this with a stick in your hand, and it is far better not to get into bad habits. No. 3 in the diagram (p. 63) is a very common attitude, but it is as bad as bad can be. The wide spoor is a cause of instability, theextremebending of the knee is a source of weakness, and there is a very fair chance of the runner (if he falls forward) knocking out his front teeth against his stick. Hold that articleclear of the groundin a safe position as shown (No. 1, p. 63), and practise sometimes without it.Above all things, do not lean backwards on to the pole, for the consequence of so doing is that the upper part of the body is retarded in its speed, and, being thus left further and further behind, a spill on lumpy ground becomes inevitable. There is a right way of using the pole for braking and turning, which will be explained further on, but until some little skill in simple straight glissading is gained it is best not to trouble about this. We strongly advise you in the meanwhile not to use the stick at all, but, for reasons previously stated (see pp. 44 and 45), to practise with it held in the hand clear of the ground.
Double sticks should be held up one in each hand or trailed behind.
The position shown inFig. 18(1) is the safest position for running over unbroken snow, for by advancing the foot one lengthens the running surface and so glides more easily over any inequalities, and by holding the ski together one is less disturbed by any lateral irregularities. But on an icy road it will be found easier to run with the feet more level and somewhat apart, for there another disturbing factor, side slip, comes into play.
So, again, when changes of the snow’s surface are likely to occur, causing the ski at one time to run freely and at another to stick, it will be found better to crouch close down to theground, for by doing so one lowers the centre of gravity, and is less likely to be pitched forward when entering the slow snow. And there will be other occasions when the runner will find it necessary to more or less modify the position shown in Fig. 18 (1). Nevertheless, this attitude may safely be considered thenormalone for descending hills on ski, and the beginner is recommended to study it carefully, and to adhere to it as closely as circumstances will permit.
As to the former, we beg to offer Mr. Punch’s advice to those about to marry—“don’t.” Every ski-runner falls more or less, the beginner very much, the expert very rarely. But most novices are apt to throw themselves down far oftener than there is any occasion for. Do not, therefore, give up simply because you lose your balance a little; very frequently if you try hard you will be able to keep upright. If you make up your mind to “stand” down a difficult hill, the chances are that you will succeed in doing so; but if you are nervous and hang back, you are almost certain to come to grief. It is specially true of ski-running that fortune favours the brave. When, however, a fall cannot be avoided, we would advise you, if possible, to cast yourself down sideways and backwards; but if the whole affair is beyond your control, then relax every muscle in your body and let yourself go. Make no attempt to save yourself or stop rolling. Then there will be no snapping of tense sinews.
You will generally find out the easiest way of getting up for yourself, but two little artifices may here be mentioned. One is to get on to the back of your ski in deep snow; and the other is to bring the ski below you on a steep slope and to place them at right angles to the gradient before attempting to rise.
Slight changes of direction can be made by leaning the body a little this way or that. This is very easy, and requires no explanation.
Another way of steering is to lift one of the ski and place it down in the direction in which one wishes to go, at the same time striking out with the other foot as in skating. This accomplishment is not exactly pretty, but it is very useful. One can thus help the ski round a bend in a road or thread one’s way down a gentle slope amongst trees without losing speed. It is, however, impossible to execute a very rapid turn in this manner. A good way of practising “skating” is to do a sort of “inside edge” on any firm surface (e.g., a snow-covered lake) on the level. One strikes out with the ski in the same manner as with skates on ice.
This method of controlling the speed has been the subject of a good deal of discussion. The objections to it are (1) that it is a less powerful method than any of the others to be mentioned later on; (2) that it requires greater strength; (3) that the stick is liable to break and leave the runner helpless; (4) thatits constant use is conducive to a bad style of running, spoiling the balance, and making the learning of the other movements more difficult. Nevertheless, we doubt whether even the cleverest novice will be able to stop quickly by means of the “Telemark” or “Christiania” swings for at least a month or two, and most people will take far longer to learn to do them even moderately well. How, then, are the poor things to manage in the meantime? “By snow-ploughing and by stemming,” you reply. Certainly, but the fact is that with these methods when no stick is used it is quite impossible, when travelling very fast, to stop suddenly, though with the help of the stick it is easy to do so.
But we will here go a step further and assert that there are places and conditions of snow where the use of the stick becomes imperative even to the expert, as, for example, when traversing a steep and crusted slope with a precipice below it. We propose therefore, to deal with the proper way of managing it before proceeding further.
The important thing to remember in using the stick is to hold it quite short, andas far in front as possible. Do not let it drag behind.
The accompanying diagrams illustrate a right and a wrong method. Note that in (1) the left forearm and hand of the runner should rest against the inside of the shin of his left (advanced) leg. The left hand serves as a fulcrum, the long end of the lever being held in the right. Considerable power may be obtained in this manner, but it is not always feasible on lumpy ground. You must use your own judgment as to when to employ it, bearing in mind the above principle. But, above all things, do not assume the position depicted in (2). Here, even though the entire weight of the body rests on the stick, its braking value (owing to the angle at which it touches the snow) is very slight. In this position the ski gradually slide further and further ahead, leaving the stick, with the runner clinging to it, further and further behind; all balance and all control are lost, and as soon as a little inequality is met with a spill occurs.