Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it this morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done yesterday for about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak heath rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms of wind and rain we arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn[49]expecting to find some ancient remains in this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon the summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the interference of the Druids to place them in their present position. On enquiring at a cottage near this spot whether there were any carnedds or chromlechs to be seen we exposed ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed a hearty laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.
No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche
No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche
Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to Bodedern situated on the turnpike road about eight miles from Holyhead. This place did not prepossess us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry accommodations (fol. 83a). However we were obliged to put up with them unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have thrown us nearly a day backward in our march. Having ordered the best the house could afford for dinner we walked nearly amile along the turnpike road in the direction of Gwindy[50a]when turning off into a field to the left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs[50b]we have yet seen in the island the cap stone measuring four yards and a half long four yards wide and two yards thick[50c]its three supporters each about a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the same height but it does not touch the stone above. Under this cromlech we were informed a whole family who had been ejected from their habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There was another cromlech close at hand but the cap stone had been forced down and rests in a slanting direction against the supporters the top stone of this measured three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its supporters nearly two yards high. An old mansion near the spot was we understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married Kingmaster of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem to be very much out of repair having been untenanted for some time. Returned about four to our homely dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after retracing my sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the intended bridge over the Menai. This if it ever is put into execution will be a stupendous work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built pretty strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting was first held for the purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban’s tavern when the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great public utility—second—that it appears from the reports and concurrent opinions of several able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon piles with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental (fol. 87a) to the navigation of the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge being erected onthat plan, third, that we will support the application made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the said streights agreeable to the above plan. N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards follow the signature of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the first intention was to have constructed one of wood with three swivel bridges for the convenience of vessels passing to and fro. Now according to the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her sails set. God knows whether this plan will ever be brought to perfection but in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder at the projection of any enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were not pleased with our fare much less were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the upper story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards wherein are placed the different beds for the family and strangers. We slept in separate beds it is true, but every word that was said, nor ought that was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to the ear at least as though we had been in the same dormontory. I was unfortunately situated, in having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not being above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at my ear. Different kinds of music resounded from different parts of the room. I bore all this harmonious combination of sounds with the philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when my next neighbour played so violently on the double bass I lost all patience and began knocking with equal violence on the partition between us. This not only awoke him but every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got up grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and (fol. 89a) see who it was who knocked at the door for they imagined it was some traveller who wished to gain admittance. In the course of an hour when the tumultwas subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide whom I had ordered to call me at half past six.
We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it was light paying much higher for our miserable entertainment than we had done at any place in the island. First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llandrûgan,[53]situated near Gwindy the halfway house between Beaumaris and Holyhead our host having given us to understand there was a very ancient stone near the church which many travellers went to look at but few could read the inscription. He himself among the rest although he said he was a good schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years could (fol. 90) make nothing of it. On arriving at the spot we found a flat tomb stone to the right of the entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut on its surface:
Reader in me doe thou thyself beholdWilome full hie but now full low in mouldBodychens heyr I was my name was JohnThe second who that sirname fixt uponCredit nor wealth nor friends I did not lackeHeare dead and dust loe all doe me forsakeThe day draws on when God me hence shall raiseAmongst his chosen his great name to praise.
Reader in me doe thou thyself beholdWilome full hie but now full low in mouldBodychens heyr I was my name was JohnThe second who that sirname fixt uponCredit nor wealth nor friends I did not lackeHeare dead and dust loe all doe me forsakeThe day draws on when God me hence shall raiseAmongst his chosen his great name to praise.
On the side nearest the church door:
Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo sexto centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo.
Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo sexto centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo.
On the opposite side:
Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo conjugi piae memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno milessimo sexgentessimo quadragessimo.
Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo conjugi piae memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno milessimo sexgentessimo quadragessimo.
Though we copied the inscription being on the spotwe did not think it deserving a digression of three miles to read especially as we had so much to perform before night.
No. 41. Stone in Llantrisant Parish
Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not without some apprehension in being equally deceived in an ancient inscription we learnt was to be seen there cut on the stone[54]of a gateway. On enquiring at a farm house we found it had been taken up from the gate and placed in a kind of shed as a block to chop sticks on. This intelligence conveyed through our interpreter did not quiet our fears for the fate of the inscription, however towards the place we went and fortunately found the stone lying with the inscription downwards (fol. 92). On the edge was engraved Aroe lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch. Having with the assistance of four stout fellows turned the stone I traced as nearly as I could the characters as they appear in my drawing. The stone was of a lozenge form about six feet high and three wide, and I conjecture was first of all employed by the Romans as a direction across the country, as the words Aroe lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply. The second inscription was probably cut some centuries after in monkish times as appears by the words moribus disciplinae et sapientiae coming together in the conclusion of the sentence. Indeed many of the upright pillars we have met with in the island I imagine were intended as directions or boundaries and not at all connected with druidical worship as Mr. Rowlands seems to suppose. The day by this time being far advanced we exerted ourselves as much as the country would (fol. 92a) allow to gain Llanbabo church four miles distant in sufficient time to copy an ancient stone dug up here in the reign of Charles the second bearing the effigies of Pabo post Prid or Prince Pabo the support of Britain who flourished about the year four hundred sixty and who is said to havebuilt and to have been buried in this church. His effigies are designed on a flat stone resembling free stone, the figure crowned with a sceptre in its right hand and a close garment down to its feet. On the edge of the stone these characters are cut hic jacet Pabo post Prid the remainder is very much defaced but I should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam.
For my own part I cannot but think that the whole of this is some ages later than Pabo’s time as both the sculpture and the formation of the letters are those of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. We know that in Roman catholic countries it is very common for the priests to preserve (fol. 95) the effigies of their founders and benefactors in their churches and monasteries and might not this have been presented to the church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by way of acquiring the favour of the sainted patron. The letters here noticed very much resemble those I have copied from the monument in Bettws y Coed church in Carnarvonshire. I took as perfect a drawing as my time would allow and afterwards just sketched the entrance door and three uncooth and at present whitewashed visages let into the stone above and on each side of it. These are of such rude workmanship that I should rather attribute them to the time of Pabo than the subject we have just considered. A kind of waving line over the arch of the door as described in my sketch is I conjecture no less antique. The church itself differs in no other respect from the generality of Welsh buildings, and the parish is so scattered that not above two houses are to be seen in any direction.
No. 45. Stones in Llanfechell Parish
From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty swampy and fatiguing walk (fol. 95a) of four miles and the termination of it was rendered still more unfortunate as we found the public house so indifferent we could not think of spending the night there accordingly we hastened by the light of the moon to examine some stones and a cromlech about half a mile beyond leaving our interpreter who seemed to bepretty well tired of antique hunting to eat his dinner, in the interim the host of the public house officiating in his stead. Under his guidance we first visited three upright stones standing on a rising ground placed three paces asunder forming an exact triangle. They were about seven feet high and two feet and a half wide. These I make no doubt were intended as a direction to travellers as they might be seen from every rising hillock in the neighbourhood and also from the coast, we could not learn that they were called by any particular name if it had sounded anything like aroe it would have thrown some light upon the inscription in Llantrisant parish.
From hence passing by an old (fol. 98) mansion named cromlech now tenanted by a farmer we came to the spot where many large stones were lying scattered promiscuously on the ground and one nearly square measuring nine feet across leaning against some uprights about six feet high. From the appearance of this place I should rather imagine that it had beenthe interior or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinion seems somewhat confirmed by the accounts of the common people who remember great quantities of stone having been removed to form a wall. Returning to the public house we made a meal on bread and cheese and afterwards procuring the key of the church we examined its interior. The font is square having a double Saxon arch rudely carved on each face. Over the communion table is a Latin inscription to Mr. Humphreys Rector of the parish which we transcribed:
Cineribus sacrumH. S. E.(fol. 98a)Robertus HumphreysM.A.vir eruditus perquam et modestusRei medicaepraesertim botanicae apprime gnarusPraxique claruithujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustraExtitit RectorobiitXIIIid Junii annoMDCCIXÆtatis suaeLVIIIDnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet defuncto hoc positum voluit
Cineribus sacrumH. S. E.(fol. 98a)Robertus HumphreysM.A.vir eruditus perquam et modestusRei medicaepraesertim botanicae apprime gnarusPraxique claruithujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustraExtitit RectorobiitXIIIid Junii annoMDCCIXÆtatis suaeLVIII
Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet defuncto hoc positum voluit
Llanfechell Church; Font, Llanfechell Church
A long five miles walk brought us to Amlwch where with some little difficulty (the hostess not admiring our pedestrian appearance) we gained admittance, a good supper and comfortable sleeping appartments which indeed were not a little refreshing after (fol. 101) the labours of the day and the adventures of the preceeding night.
Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain from four to five thousand inhabitants though before the working of the Parys mines there were not an hundred tenements in the parish. Besides two or three good houses a church has been lately erected by the copper company on a neat substantial plan and a quay formed near the smelting houses where ships of two or three hundred tons burthen may take in their lading. These we passed in our way to Llanelian church this morning which we had been directed to examine as one of the most curious structures in the island. This church differs from most others in North Wales in having a kind of spire rising from a square tower. I cannot say that this edition is very elegant it being coated all the way up with small slate. The body of the church is ornamented with battlements, pinnacles, and (fol. 101a) buttresses in the style of our parish churches built about the time of Henry the seventh. Having procured the key we found the interior still retaining its catholic collection of saints and apostles, and the seats, chancel, and communion-table, were decorated with a profusion of carving in oak. On the latter on a kind of scroll we read non nobis Domine non nobis sed nomine tuo. Beneath the archeswhich supported the roof of the building were six grotesque little figures, playing on the bagpipe, pibcorn, and other instruments, their appearance is rendered still more ridiculous by their being painted in black coats, yellow waistcoats, and white wigs. In a small chapel attached to the south east end of the church (which is said to have been the original edifice founded by Saint Elian) there is a kind of semicircular chest or cabinet made of oak into which whoever can enter and turn himself round is sure in the opinion of the vulgar to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol. 102) prove fatal to him. People from all parts come at stated periods to try their destiny in this absurd way. There is also an old chest well secured by bolts bars and nails in another part of the church having a small slit in the lid through which the country people are said to drop a piece of money uttering their maledictions against their enemies the black gentleman is thus feed to work evil against the offender, thisuncharitable and unchristian custom if true seems almost too bad even for monkish times much worse to be continued now. Having viewed these relics of superstition we ascended by a circular tower to the roof [of] the church which is very nicely leaded. On enquiring afterwards of a Welsh clergyman why Llanelian was so much better taken care of than other parish churches I found that some lands had been appropriated by one of the Welsh princes centuries ago by way of expiation for his sins to keep it in constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple, being leaded, &c. &c.
No. 46. Llanelian Church
After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102a) to Amlwch, on our way thither obtained a very clear view of the Isle of Man lying only sixteen leagues to the north of this coast. Could we have insured a week’s fine weather we should not have hesitated an instant including that island in our circuit as I have long wished to satisfy myself respecting some ancient inscriptions at Pielstown. I understand there is almost daily communication through the herring boats which come here to dispose of their cargoes. Having taken a slight repast at Amlwch we proceeded to the Parys mountain which of late years has enriched not only many individuals but the nation at large. It lies about a mile south of the town and though denominated a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least would be deemed a very inconsiderable hillock. The approach to it is dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams issuing from the copper kilns have destroyed every germ of vegetation in the neighbourhood. When we had gained (fol. 103) the higher ground the uninteresting and gloomy prospect we had hitherto observed was at once converted into the most lively and active scene. Hundreds of men, women, and children, appeared busily occupied in the different branches of this vast concern and the bustle of the metropolis prevailed amidst the dreary recesses of the Druids. The produce of the mountain belongs to two different companiesone called the Parys Mine shared between Lord Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and Mr. Williams. The other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge’s alone.
Our servant having delivered a message from the people of the inn to one of the overseers of the Parys mine, he accompanied us over the works. A stranger not acquainted with mining concerns cannot do better than take his first lesson at this place. There being no necessity of descending into subterrianean abodes to grope out for information by candle light, incommoded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is here worked open to the day and by taking his station in one (fol. 103a) point he can command a view of the whole proceedings from the beginning to the end and receive every satisfactory explanation almost without moving from the spot. We first were conducted to some wooden stages erected on the edge of the bason if I may so employ that term to an immense excavation of an oval form about two hundred yards long, half so much in width and eighty in depth which has been hollowed out in the course of twenty years, these wooden stages are each supplied with a windlass for the purpose of drawing up the ore from the bottom. On looking down from hence to the chasm beneath, we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour which the miners were busily employed in boring, blasting, breaking with sledge hammers, wheeling the fragments to appointed places beneath the stages filling the baskets which were hauled up as before mentioned by the windlass. There might be from twelve to fourteen stages erected for this purpose in different (fol. 104) parts of the mine.
As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered to a number of women and children to be broken into smaller pieces. The good ore is then separated from that of an inferior sort and carried to kilns to be baked. The sulphur forms in what is called flour brimstone by the chymists on the top of the oven.This is afterwards collected, melted in large cauldrons and formed into round moulds for sale.
We understood that the better kind of ore was sent to Neath and other places, and the inferior to the smelting houses at Amlwch. In walking round the premises we crossed a small stream running into some square reservoirs, this water was so impregnated with copper that merely the dipping a key in for two or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour of that metal. The square reservoirs above mentioned was stored with all the old iron that could be collected which are turned monthly the coperas on them sinking in a kind (fol. 104a) of red slime to the bottom.
At stated times the pits are emptied and the produce when hardened becomes equally valuable to the richest ore in the mines. We may be sure that every drop of this precious stream is turned to the best account possible indeed so productive is it that they compute it to be worth above three halfpence a quart. On entering the compting house one of the clerks sitting there obligingly gratified us with the sight of a number of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of minerals I ever saw and moreover requested us to take our choice of what we most admired. We were constrained to be very moderate on account of the weight of the article but if we could have procured a ready carriage I fancy we should have been rather more greedy in our selection. At it was we took nearly five pounds’ weight of the following minerals and mixtures (fol. 105):
First. Mundig containing sulphur and iron.
2. Iron incrusted with lead chrystals.
3. Copper ore.
4. Copper ore after roasting.
5. Copper taken from the reservoir of old iron.
6. Quartz containing copper ore.
7. Zink commonly called black Jack incorporated with copper rock holding a small quantity of lead.
8. Quartz with a little of the Zink and chrystals.
9. Pure copper.
10. Blue stone issuing from the copper rocks.
11. Sulphur.
12. Copper coming from the old iron after it is dried.
Hence we just looked into the assay house but could not see the process the man having concluded work we also viewed the kilns and the coppers where the sulphur is melted. Having taken a very competent survey and complimented our obliging and intelligent conductor for his trouble in the best manner we were able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles to the west of Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we heard there was (fol. 105a) a prodigious large stone with writing under it to be seen. Our conductor who was a young man of Amlwch speaking pretty good English entertained us the whole way by a variety of ghost stories and preternatural events the common talk of the neighbourhood. The stone we were going to see was so big that it would sink the largest ship that came to Amlwch. That it stood in a valley by itself resting on a flat stone whereon a good many characters were engraved but nobody was able to make them out but should some learned person have that good fortune the stone would immediately move off of itself and there would be a pot of gold to reward him for his schollarship. That a countryman living hard by had seen the treasure three following nights in his dreams and had spent some time in digging for it but all to no purpose for it was not intended for him. On telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107) share whatever we discovered it quickened our march astonishingly and I really believe we were not above an hour in reaching the stone notwithstanding the many impediments which crossed our way. On which we passed an upright stone about seven feet high in the middle of a field resembling some of those we before noticed as boundaries. Here exclaimed Sancho a man also found a considerable treasure, although amused by his simplicity it in some measure weakenedthe interest we had taken in the object of our walk and we felt the less disappointed at finding we had taken our ramble in vain when we arrived at the spot. For a candle being procured at the treasure dreamer’s cottage we discovered that what they took for letters were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock and that the stone itself though of some magnitude possessed no more claim to notice than any other detached fragment lying by the road side. (fol. 107a) However disappointed we concealed our chagrin and even suffered our conductor to take us half a mile out of the way to see an immense stone which he said was called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being placed near it and that when the sun shone whoever could trace the shadow at a particular time of the day would discover a great treasure in a brass vessel. It was moonlight when we arrived at this stone which certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we had quitted. It is standing upright in the midst of a field and measures thirteen feet high and fourteen andfifteen in circumference allowing four or five feet under ground, it must have been a very heavy body and cost some trouble to have erected it in its present position. Approaching nearer to Amlwch we observed our quondam loquacious compation become very silent, and just as we had passed an old wall about half a mile (fol. 108) from the town he told us with evident marks of trepidation that there was a ghost sitting there every night, on asking him if he had ever seen it he said no but that many of his friends had, it was in the shape of a woman and once had attempted to pull a farmer’s wife off her horse but was prevented by the arrival of a second person when it vanished. That on Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to come to the spot in order to see how many lights would pass by and as many did so many persons as travelled that road would die within the twelvemonth.
No. 48. Ffedoged-y-Gowres
I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that superstition still reigns here and this superstition has perhaps been the guardian to many of the druidical remains we noticed in the island. It was past six when we returned to the inn where we were welcomed by a most excellent repast.
We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended on account (fol. 108a) of our boots not being ready so bad is the workmanship of the shoemakers in Wales that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the exertions of the next, and it was a business almost as regular as eating our dinner when we arrived at the inn to send our boots to get mended. Here I hope we have had them secured effectually as we ordered them to be studded with nails according to the fashion of the country. Although on our arrival we scarcely gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet on ourdeparture we had to pay the bill calculated for equestrians of the first order so much had our consequence been raised by the loquacity of our attendant in the kitchen.
This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we had sustained at Llanfechell caused a calculation to be made which promised only three days’ supply supposing our concerns should fall into the hands of so experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch (fol. 109). About eleven we were clear of the inn and took the road across the fields to the small church of Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of the Wynne family a branch of which family was settled at a large mansion now a farm near the spot. The church door being open we found the interior occupied by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars. On the pulpit were carved the arms of the Wynne’s and the seats and communion table exhibited the same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at Llanelian. This living was augmented by Queen Anne’s bounty and further donations as appears engraven on a brass tablet affixed to the north side of the altar:
M. S.Annae Reginae serenissimaecujus munificentia sine exemplo maximaeinter innumeras alias per magnam(fol. 109a) Britanniam late sparsasTenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesiacujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebatlibris ducentis donata estpromovente interim pietatem hancet totidem libras de proprio conferenteper ultimum testamentum suumDat. 6toSeptembrisA.D.1720Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de LlantrisantFilio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.Sexto et natu maximoquibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctisTenementa sequentia coemptaet in usum ecclesiae prædictaeIn perpetuum stabilita sunt(fol. 110)IIIº Nonas Decembris 1723viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c.Reditusque annuus 40 solidorumDe Tre Anghared in BodedernCom. Anglesea.In tantae munificentiae memoriamTabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.
M. S.Annae Reginae serenissimaecujus munificentia sine exemplo maximaeinter innumeras alias per magnam(fol. 109a) Britanniam late sparsasTenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesiacujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebatlibris ducentis donata estpromovente interim pietatem hancet totidem libras de proprio conferenteper ultimum testamentum suumDat. 6toSeptembrisA.D.1720Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de LlantrisantFilio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.
Sexto et natu maximoquibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctisTenementa sequentia coemptaet in usum ecclesiae prædictaeIn perpetuum stabilita sunt(fol. 110)IIIº Nonas Decembris 1723viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c.Reditusque annuus 40 solidorumDe Tre Anghared in BodedernCom. Anglesea.
In tantae munificentiae memoriamTabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.
On the opposite side of the communion table on a similar tablet is engraved the pedigree of this branch of the Wynne’s which is as follows:
In hac Ecclesia jacent1. Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap Ednyfed ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap Gwerydd ap Rees Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.(fol. 110a)2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27º Julii anno Dni 1551 uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de Plâs y Brian in parochia de Llanbeder.3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Conway de Bryn Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 uxorem duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen.5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion Griffith de Llanddyfran.6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Puleston de Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint.7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam filiam et cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum uxore filioque natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B—M positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris dignissimi consulat.
In hac Ecclesia jacent
1. Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap Ednyfed ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap Gwerydd ap Rees Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.
(fol. 110a)
2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27º Julii anno Dni 1551 uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de Plâs y Brian in parochia de Llanbeder.
3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Conway de Bryn Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.
4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 uxorem duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen.
5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion Griffith de Llanddyfran.
6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Puleston de Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint.
7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam filiam et cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum uxore filioque natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B—M positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris dignissimi consulat.
Having finished our observations and preparing to leave the church we were not a little surprized by a request made by the schoolmaster for something to drink our healths, though I complied with his request I at the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an instructor should not be mercinary. However he pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot say I discerned anything of that hectic flush come acrosshis cheek described by Sterne in his story of the poor Monk.
Continuing from hence and passing by the magic stone which had drawn us so much out of our way the preceeding night we called at the treasure dreamer’s cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription which (fol. 111a) he knew to be worthy of notice as a clergyman of Llanerchymedd had been to copy it. He was from home but his wife catching up her half grown child in her arms walked before us at such a rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field where it stood. We here found some characters and just as I was preparing to take the impression of them with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a neighbouring farm. The farm house though of considerable extent was open all the way up to the roof the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to each other. This we found on enquiry was the common custom of the country. The weather holding up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval having learnt that the stone had some time since been broken in two in order to make a gate post of the lower part, we procured an (fol. 113) iron crow and with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm turned it over, it measures about four feet in length but retains no appearance of characters on its surface though by measuring its width we clearly discovered that it must formerly have been united to the upper part which is now fixed in the ground about an hundred yards distant. On returning thither I took a very exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hîr Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters and when entire it must have been a conspicuous object from most parts of the island as it stands on very high ground.
The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we hastened our march to Llanerchymedd our intended station for the night. Although the distance to thisplace in a direct line is not above four miles and its situation clearly discerned from Maen Hîr Llanol yet on account of the bogs and (fol. 113a) overflowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our way passed a farm called Boddeiniol where we stopped to enquire for some druidical remains mentioned in Mr. Bingley’s list as still visible, but the farmer who is apparently near eighty years old said he had never had heard of anything of the kind since he had lived there. But some time back in cleaning a piece of roughground in one of his fields he discovered four burying places as he took them to be the sides formed of flat stones set upright in the ground and covered by others of the same irregular shape. Some of the stones he shewed us lying against a fence but none of them appeared to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed the river Trepont[71]a little below Llanbabo. This river is styled the largest in Anglesea although I am sure one might easily leap over the widest part the channel (fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or fourteen feet across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a little before four, enquiring of the innkeeper for an ancient stone with an inscription near the town he accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he said was very curious in these particulars and would furnish us with every information on the subject. Our reception was very pleasing but we had been misinformed in regard to the object of our enquiries there being no other antiques in the neighbourhood besides Maen Hîr Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant about four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the above mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn and during our conversation gave some interesting particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon mountain which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow. This gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian of which I took an impression in sealing wax (fol. 114a) in order to make a fac simile of the coin in isinglass on my return—if we cannot procure originals we must be content with copies. Having noted down the occurrences of the day we retired to bed desiring to be called very early in order to get breakfast over by seven the time we had agreed to set out.
No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol
No. 50. [Thief Stone.]
A little before seven called at Mr. Richards’s house whom we found waiting at the door ready to accompany us. He mounted his horse and we pursued the Beaumaris turnpike for half[72a]a mile when we turned to the left to look at a stone called Lleidr[72b]y Frydog or the thief stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high having a kind of hump or projection near the top. The country people report that a thief who had stolen some books from a neighbouring church was in this place turned into stone with the sack containing his theft laying over his shoulder. About a quarter of a mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire and not far from it by the road side we saw two wells whose waters were enclosed in a square reservoir of stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Serioland Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the latter at Holyhead where he founded a collegiate church) used to hold their weekly meetings at these springs to consult on religious matters, and from the circumstance of Seriol’s travelling westward in the morning and eastward in the evening, and Cybi on the contrary always facing the sun they were denominated
Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn.Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.
Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn.Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.
No. 50a. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain
No. 51. Bodafon Hills
When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of rocky ground (fol. 117a) extending nearly two miles east and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to our attendant and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of the hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch[73]nearly square the upper stone being about eleven feet across supported by four or five small uprights not above a foot and a half from the surface. This is by no means so perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr. Richards been positive of the fact I should have doubted whether it had been designed for one. Arrived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a cottage inhabited by a countryman whose grandfatherand great grandfather resided there before him. Under the direction of this person we climbed to the top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the loose stones have been removed but some of the flat ones which composed the cistfaen are still on the spot, another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118) yards to the eastward of this, a third further beyond which we did not visit. In the course of our walk the countryman pointed to a spot where he said his grand-mother whilst tending the cattle found a large triangular[74]piece of gold as he called it, standing on three supporters weighing nearly forty pounds. The antique overgrown with heath but one of the beasts happeningto tread upon it occasioned the discovery. This she sold for three shillings at Llanerchymedd.
No. 52. South of Bodafon Hill with a British Town
I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever it was it would have been of more considerable value in the eyes of the antiquarian. Not far from this place he pointed to a number of loose stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold tongues[75a]as many pieces of gold of that shape he said were formerly picked up here. From the formation here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a farther (fol. 118a) confirmation of this opinion not a great way distant facing the south we traced the remains of a large British[75b]town.Here about forty or fifty foundations such as we have before noticed at Tre Evan may be clearly discerned some lying in a cluster together others standing separate, others again having a square form the name given to these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our intelligent companion by Cyteau[76a]Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as some have translated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A spring rising near the spot still has a term of the same signification being stiled the well of the wild inhabitants. Some vestiges of similar[76b]buildings are to be traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just noticed. It is natural to suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a security (fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we may suppose the lower parts of these huts were alone built of stone and that branches of trees and earth formed the covering like those at present used amongst the lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not this people have retained the mode observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive their origin. The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. Here a beacon used to be lighted in case of invasion or to convey signals to the opposite coast of Carnarvonshire although probably it is many years since anything of the kind was used, yet the stones and the earth bear evident marks of the fire. It blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from the wind and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Llûgwy church an ancient building about half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a (fol. 120a) rough flat stone in the church yard I tracedthe following inscription, hic jacet Macuceceti.[77a]Mr. Rowlands, upon what authority I know not, supposes this to have been an inscription on Mechell or Macutius bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he says was buried here. We also observed two or three flat grave[77b]stones of a rough gritty substance about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in the same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey. But what seemed most curious atfirst sight was an inscription marked on a flat stone[78]lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to be similar to what I had observed on the font at Bridekirk in Cumberland mixed with Saxon letters of a much later date. On observing Mr. Richards smile after I had finished my copy I requested he would candidly tell me what the inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was written for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been executed within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman who employed various alphabets to compose it. The words are Welsh to this effect Yma hefyd mae Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70. Here also lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. This I suppose was intended as a stumbling block forantiquarians the idea being probably suggested by Mr. Rowland’s Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret the loss of my walking stick for although I dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest of it before we had proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly suspect that the clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the church yard excepting our own party. However as he supplied me with something as a substitute it (fol. 122a) did not longer delay our march which brought us in the course of half an hour to Llûgwy house an ancient mansion now rented by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread and cheese and some excellent ale. We then walked a short distance from the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice wood but still there was sufficient opening to enable us to trace a number of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect form and larger dimensions than any we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a breast work of massive stones stuck edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a fortification which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp stakes. The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances easily traced as also a communication[79]from one to the other. This is a strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines who are said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing in common.
No. 53. Stones in Penhros Llûgwy Churchyard
No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side
We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive fortress on the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says resembles very much the one before us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper stone six yards long, five yards and a half wideand three yards[80a]thick. One end rests upon a bank[80b]of earth and the other is supported by four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath about two feet high.
No. 55. Llûgwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]
Near this we noticed the remains of Llûgwy chapel now entirely dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo church said to have been built in the year six hundred and five. On the north wall near the altar is a mutilated monument[80c]of a knight in armour kneeling before an altar said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose residence was in this parish. On digging a few years ago the foundation of the new parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault formed of a solid composition resembling thick (fol. 126a) tile supposed to be an ancient burying place. Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years says he has in his possession English coins ofEdward[81]and Mary found in digging in the church yard. Leaving the church we adjourned to a farm house close by where the party was again supplied with bread cheese and ale. Although I did not much admire this delay we were obliged to comply with Mr. Richards’s request. Continued here nearly an hour during which time a poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but having received but few instructions was but an indifferent performer, our attendant then took the instrument and played some of the Welsh airs with tolerable execution. The poor boy in the meantime exhibited such strong marks of surprize mixed with mortification as would have supplied an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth.
No. 56. Cromlech Allcho
After having given something to him we were not a little glad to take our leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a doubt whether we could procure accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris atleast twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven feet high nine long and three thick this is placed edgeways on a flat rock, another about the same shape and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A third formerly placed across has been destroyed within the memory of some of the inhabitants. These stones are called Cromlech but I should rather imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had constituted the chamber of a large Carnedd. Proceeding hence we walked over a natural layer of lime stones extending for some acres along the surface of the ground this is called Marian Glâs a term expressive of flat grey stones. We here met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127a) a rising ground called Bryn[82]ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill about two miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said were some other remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction we could not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. Richards quitted us. We were indeed much indebted to him for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far for I am convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many of these curious remains the common people in general being ignorant of everything of the kind. This gentleman seems to have paid a good deal of attention to antiquities and has promised to favour me with a letter on the subject on my return home. But I could not help remarking in the course of conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129) that there were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from their haunts. He also spoke of the knockers supposed to be little invisible beings favourable to the miners who by making a variety of sounds underground leadthem to those places where there is the greatest quantity of ore. I could only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Pontypool on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large stones of the same kind as the substrata rising above seven feet. They have obtained the name of cromlech but I rather imagine them to be natural productions.
Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red Wharf. Passed more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is an ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol. 129a) the name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with trees. Not far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes resided before his vast acquisition in the Parys mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before dark and the house promised but very bad accommodations we were obliged to put up with them. Our eating was of the least importance but on retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided clean linen thetoute ensemblewas so dirty I passed the night without taking off my cloaths.
We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse as soon as there was sufficient light to see our direction three miles across the sands of Traeth Gôch to the village of Llanddona whose church stands on an eminence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by Ddona grandson of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought the Saxons when the monks of Bangor Iscoed were slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a mile to the left are the traces of a large entrenchment supposed to have been thrown up by the Britons as a defence against the northern invaders. This is on arising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn[84a]or Round Table Hill. This we had not leisure to see being obliged to hasten to Llainestan[84b]about a mile in the contrary direction in order to have sufficient time to notice an ancient monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before service began. Fortunately the church door was open and we met with no interruption during the half hour we stayed there. The object in question covering a cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habitholding a pastoral crook in his right hand and in his left a scroll is here represented, whereon is inscribed (fol. 131a) hic jacet sanctus Jestinus cui &c., round the border of the slab towards the head the characters in parts are much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem pro salute animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears very similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way tends to confirm the opinion we there formed that the sculpture is many centuries posterior to the time of the persons they are designed to represent and offered as an oblation to the church for the purpose of securing the favour and mediation of the patron saint. That the family of this Gryffyd ap Gwyllym resided in this neighbourhood appears from a document still extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth in the twenty seventh year of Henry the sixth by which seven villaines or vassals were made over and granted by Ednyfed Fychan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd and Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system still obtaining to (fol. 133) William Gryffyd ap Gwylym free tenant of Porthamel probably the very same person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the church. This Jesten founder of the church is supposed to have been the son of Gerennius or Geraint grandson of Constantine duke of Cornwall successor to king Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably coeval with the original building. The present structure differs nothing from other Welsh Churches. From hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile and a half to an old mansion called Fotti[85]Rhydderch or Roderick’s summer house having been directed thither to see an inscription cut over an arched chimney piece in the kitchen. The characters appear to be about the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are read Si deus nobiscum quis contra nos. This place formerly the residence of a gentleman’s family likemost others we have had occasion to notice in the island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133a) who has a fine family of nine children. The eldest a lad of only eleven years old engaged to conduct us to the cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former place there is little worthy of notice but at the latter I took two sketches of a very perfect cromlech the upper stone measuring about three yards across supported by two uprights the larger six feet high the other not above four and a half which cause the cap stone to recline in a slanting direction. Another long stone now lying on the ground appears to have been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also are three or four flat stones lying promiscuously.
No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn
No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn
No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor
No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor
Whether these were ever employed in the formation of a second cromlech like at Praes Addfed[86a]I cannot pretend to determine. About two fields from hence in our way to Penymynnedd[86b]we traced one of verysmall dimensions, the cap stone not being above a yard across and its two supporters a foot and a half high.
(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at Penymynnedd a place formerly in possession of the Tudor family whose descendant Owen became of such consequence in the British history by marrying Catherine widow of Henry the fifth. In the church we perceived a handsome marble monument said to belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a knight in armour with his lady by his side. There being no inscription we could not determine its exact date but from the workmanship I should imagine it was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake not was buried in the cathedral of St. Davids but of this I shall inform myself hereafter.
The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the name of its founder whose tomb they pointed out under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall without any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument on account of there being a good many people in church (fol. 136a) and I wished not to put a stumbling block in my brother’s way but I afterwards made a sketch from memory just to notice the place. After a homely meal we walked half a mile across the fields to the turnpike, and in the course of an hour arrived at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain having accompanied us all the way. Crossed the water about two with the design of reaching Capel Cerig to sleep but in this we were disappointed through the inattention of our guide who having stopped behind on some pretence we mistook our way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to Llandegai.
It was now quite dark and stormy and we endeavoured to procure horses to take us to the conclusion of our stage but without success, on therefore we marched to a small public house near Lord Penrhyn’s quarries where we met a civil receptionthough the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138) a whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the course of two hours after our arrival our guide made his appearance with a number of excuses I did not think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we retired to our sleeping room.
No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)
It rained violently all night but clearing up after breakfast we pursued our road to Capel Cerig. In our way purchased a hone at the quarry near Ogwen lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is employed on the spot to procure this article and two or three shiploads have already been sent to different parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by our ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad weather we experienced having in that period walked above an hundred and sixty eight miles.