CHAPTER VIIMARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

To sailors the ability to tie knots, make splices and do other ropework is known as marlinspike seamanship. The name “marlinspike” refers to a metal instrument used in making knots and splices and this tool, or a somewhat similar but smaller implement known as afid, is the only article except the ropes which is required in making any knot, tie or splice.

There is a vast difference between tying aknotand tying agood knot, and while the one is an abomination, the other is a thing to admire. To be a good knot a knot must combine a number of important points. It must be of such a character that it can be quickly and easily tied; it must hold securely without danger of slipping or loosening; it must be free from the danger of “jamming”; it must be easy to untie or cast off, and it must be perfectly adapted to the particular purpose for which it is used.

The advent of wire rigging and steamships marked the decline of marlinspike seamanship and today agreat many so-called sailors are woefully ignorant of any but the simplest knots and ropework. On the old square-riggers and in the days when sailing vessels were supreme upon the seas, the sailors prided themselves upon their knowledge of knots and splices. Today one may now and then find an old deep-water tar who can tie every knot and make every splice ever used aboard ship, but each year these men are becoming fewer and marlinspike seamanship, unless kept alive by those who sail boats for pleasure, will soon be a thing of the past.

Before commencing to tie knots or to make splices one should learn about the various kinds of rope and the names of the rope’s parts.

Ordinary rope is known asthree-strandedand is made of three pieces, or strands, twisted together. These run fromleft to rightin a spiral and each of these several strands is made up of smaller pieces known asyarns, which are twisted together from right to left orleft-handed. Other ropes are made of four strands, whilebolt-ropehas a central strand around which the other strands arelaidor twisted. Some ropes are laid upleft-handedwith each strand composed of yarns twistedright-handed, but when made in this way the rope becomes acableor acable-laidrope.

The ropes ordinarily used are the three-stranded, right-hand kinds and they may be made of cotton, jute, Manilla or hemp, the Manilla being the best and most widely used.

Small ropes are usually termedlinesby sailors, andone never hears a seaman speak of “string.” Instead he says “twine,” “line,” “yarn,” or “marline.”Twineis small right-handed line.Spun-yarn, or yarn, is loosely laid, left-handed hemp, tarred and rubbed down.Marlineis line made of two finely dressed hemp yarns laid left-handed and usually tarred.

Whenever a rope is used for tying a knot or making a splice certain terms are employed to designate the various parts and as these names are used in the directions for making knots you should become familiar with them.

The principal portion or longest part of the rope is called thestanding part; the portion bent or curved is thebight, and the shorter portion used in making the knot or splice is theend. Fig. 1.

There are various types of knots, some employed for everyday useful purposes and some for purely ornamental uses. As the former are the easiest to make and are most important, it is a wise plan to learn how to tie them before attempting to master the more difficult ornamental knots.

Useful Knots and Splices

Before commencing to work with a rope the loose strands at the ends should bewhippedto prevent the rope from unraveling. Towhipthe rope take a piece of soft, strong twine, lay it on the rope an inch or two from the end, pass the twine several times around the rope, keeping the ends of the twine under the first few turns to hold it in position, and then make a large loop with the free end of the twine. Bring this back to the rope, continue winding it for a few turns around the rope and the end of the twine and finally finishby drawing the loop snug by pulling on the free end as shown in Fig. 2. This is the true sailor fashion of whipping a rope’s end, but for mere temporary purposes when practising ropework, twine wrapped a few times around the rope and tied will be sufficient.

Cuckold’s necksare loops or rings of rope such as are illustrated in Fig. 3. They are very easily made by bringing the end of a rope around in a circular bight and then seizing the bight to the standing part by means of twine or yarn. As soon as the two parts are thus bound together or seized thecuckold’s neckbecomes aclinchwhich is often very useful about a boat, while the loop or cuckold’s neck itself is the foundation of many useful knots.

Of all true knots perhaps the simplest is theoverhand knot(Fig. 4). To make this knot merely pass the end of the rope over the standing part and through the bight or cuckold’s neck thus formed (Fig. 4 A). When drawn tight the knot appears as in Fig. 4 B and is often used in making splices, grommets and fancy knots.

Another useful and very simple knot is thefigure eightwhich is shown commenced in Fig. 5 A and completed in Fig. 5 B, but the most useful and important of all is thesquare knotorreef knotshown in Fig. 6. This is the knot used to tie reef points, to furl sails, to fasten two lines together and for many other purposes, and it is doubtless the best all-around knot known. It has the advantages of being easy to tie and untie, of holding fast under tremendous strain and of never becoming jammed.

To tie a reef knot take one end of the rope in each hand, pass theleftover and under therightand then pass theright over and under the left. If you will always remember this formula,left over,right over, you will never make a mistake and tie a granny (Fig. 7). To make a granny knot stamps you as a landlubber, for the granny is a useless, troublesome knot which can never be depended upon and which is unfit for any purpose. It will not hold a strain, it is liable to slip and it soon becomes jammed and hard to untie.

If when tying a reef knot, the bight of one end is used instead of the end itself, aslippery reeferis made and this is far better for tying reef points than the true square knot as it may be cast off by merely pulling on the free end of the loop (Fig. 8).

When fastening a boat or any other object where it may be necessary to cast off quickly, alark’s headis a good fastening to use (Fig. 9). To make this knot pass the bight of a rope through the ring or other object to which you are making fast and then slip a piece of wood, a marlinspike, or some other object through the sides of the bight and under or behind the standing part as shown in Fig. 9 at A. The end of the rope is then laid over and under the standing part and back over itself. This knot may be instantly unfastened by merely pulling out the bit of wood ortoggle(A).

Another knot, which is easy to cast off and is very useful in many places, is theslippery-hitch(Fig. 10). To make this knot run the end of the rope through the ring or eye, then back over the standing part and pullthe loop or bight back through the cuckold’s neck thus formed. To untie merely pull on the free end.

A better knot for fastening a boat or other object quickly and securely is that shown in Fig. 11. This is made of two half-hitches and is widely used by sailors and is the easiest of all reliable and secure knots to tie. It is made by passing the end of a rope around a post or other object, then carrying the end over and around the standing part between itself and the post and then under and around the standing part between its own loop and the one first made. It is easier to learn this knot by studying the diagram than by a description, and as soon as you get the “hang” of it you can tie it in an instant in the darkest night. It will hold forever without working loose and even on a smooth stick or spar it will stand a great strain without slipping along.

A better knot for fastening to such an object as a smooth stick, where there is a longitudinal strain or to another rope, is theclove hitch(Fig. 12). To make this, pass the end of the rope around the stick or other object, then over itself, then over and around the spar and pass the end under itself and between the rope and spar as shown in the diagram.

If you have occasion to fasten a rope to a hook for hoisting anything you should use theblackwall hitch(Fig. 13), which is very secure and easily made. To make this hitch form a loop or cuckold’s neck with the end of the rope underneath and then pass it over the hook so that the standing part bears against the end and jams it fast.

Still another strong knot for attaching a rope to a hook is shown in Fig. 14. This is called acatspawand is made as follows: Lay the bight of the rope over the end and standing part; then, with a bight in each hand take three twistsaway from you; then bring the two bights side by side and hook them over the hook as shown.

For towing a spar, mast or a piece of timber, or for fastening to a log, the best knot to use is thetimber hitch(Fig. 15). This is made by passing the end of the rope around the object, then around the standing part and then twisting it three times under and over its own part. If you wish to have this still more secure, a half-hitch may be taken with the line a foot or two farther along the spar (Fig. 15 A).

It often happens that one needs to fasten two very heavy or stiff ropes or hawsers together and this may be impossible with any ordinary knots. In such cases there is nothing better than thecarrick bend(Fig. 16). To make this bend, form a bight by laying the end of the hawser on top of and across the standing part. Then take the end of the other hawser and pass it through this bight, first down and then up over the cross and then down through the bight again, so that it comes out on the opposite side from the other end thus bringingone end on topand theother belowas illustrated. If the lines are very heavy or stiff the ends may be seized to the standing parts by twine or marline.

Heavy hawsers can seldom be handled like small ropes and there are several bends or knots which areespecially designed for these large ropes. Among them are theanchor bendsshown in Fig. 16 A and thefisherman’s bend(Fig. 16 B), both of which are so simple that an explanation is not necessary as they can readily be mastered by looking at the diagrams.

But of all knots perhaps the most perfect is thebowline(Fig. 17). This is preëminentlythesailor’s knot and every person who uses or owns boats should learn to tie a bowline quickly and readily for it is the strongest, most secure and best of all useful knots and can be used for a thousand and one different purposes.

It is very simple and by following the various stages as illustrated you will have no difficulty in learning to tie it. In A the rope is shown with the bight or cuckold’s neck formed with the end over the standing part. Pass A back through the bight, under, then over, then under again, as shown in B; then over and down through the bight, as shown at C and D. Then draw tight as at E.

While for most purposes knots serve every purpose for fastening two ropes together or for attaching a rope to some other object, yet a tied rope is never as strong as a whole rope and moreover where two ropes are thus fastened together, the knot will not pass through blocks, eyes or other openings which will admit the rope itself. For this reason it is often necessary to join two ropes so that there is scarcely any increase in the size of the ropes. This is accomplished by making what is known as asplice.

A splice, if well made, is as strong as the rest of the rope; it will run through a block or eye readily andmoreover it is not difficult to make. There are various kinds of splices, known asshort splices,eye splices,cut splices,long splices, etc., and everyone who has occasion to use ropes should be able to make any or all of these.

The simplest splice, and the one you should learn first, is theshort splice(Fig. 18). To make this untwist orunlaythe ends of the two ropes to be joined for a few inches and wrap a few turns of twine or yarn around them to prevent the strands from untwisting any farther, as shown at A, A. The end of each strand should also be whipped or seized to prevent unravelling, but after you are adept at splicing you can omit these seizings as you will be able to splice just as well, but while learning you will find them quite necessary.

You will also find it far easier to learn how to splice if you wax or grease the strands and this applies to ropes which are used when practising simple or fancy knots also.

When you have the ropes ready, place them end to end, as shown in B, B, and with a marlinspike, a pointed stick, or some smooth, round, sharp tool open the strand 1 C and through this push the strand A of the other rope. Next open strand 2 and pass the next strand of the other rope through the opening and treat the third strand in the same way. Now open the strands of the second, or right-hand, rope below the seizings and push the strands of the first, or left-hand, rope through the apertures. The two ropes will now appear as in D, D. Next untwist eachstrand, cut off about one-half of the yarns, twist the strands tightly and seize with twine. Each of the reduced strands must now be poked under the whole strands of the opposite rope in the same manner as you passed the whole strands before cutting them down. After drawing each strand tight, pass them once more under the whole strands and finally trim them off close to the rope.

If a really fine, neat splice is desired, you may trim off a few of the yarns in each strand every time they are passed under the others, thus gradually tapering the ends and in this way forming a splice which is scarcely distinguishable from the rest of the rope.

Aneye splice(Fig. 19), is made in the same manner as the short splice but instead of splicing the two ends of separate ropes together the end of the rope is unlaid and then bent around in a loop and the ends are spliced into the strands of the standing part as shown in the illustration.

Acut splice(Fig. 20), is made in a very similar manner but instead of bending the rope around in a bight two ropes are spliced together overlapping, or a short rope may be spliced into another rope at both its ends.

Where a very strong splice the same diameter as the rope is required along splicemust be used (Fig. 21). This is the most difficult of all splices to make and it is even harder to describe than to make, but when well spliced it will pass through a block or eye as readily as a plain rope and the splice cannot be distinguished from the rope itself.

To make a long splice unlay the strands of the ropes about four times as much as for a short splice, or from four to five feet, and unlay one strand in each rope for half as much again. Place the center strands together, as at A, so that the long strands appear as at B and C and the spiral groove, left where they were unlaid, will look like D, E. Take off the two middle strands F, G, and lay them into the grooves D, E, until they meet B, C, and be sure to keep them tightly twisted while doing this. Then take the strands H, J, cut off half the yarns in each, make an overhand knot in them and stick the ends in as in making a short splice. Do the same with strands B, C, and F, G, dividing, knotting and sticking in the ends. Finally stretch the rope, pound and roll it until smooth and trim off any loose bits and ends of yarn close to the rope.

While making any splice or knot where the strands are unlaid and are again laid up, be sure to keep the strands tightly twisted by turning themfrom right to left. Then when they are laid in place they will hold their position snugly by their tendency to untwist. If you examine a rope carefully you will discover that the various strands arenotmerely twisted together, but that two of them are twisted and that the third is then laid into the groove between the other two. In laying up a rope after making a knot or splice this should be borne in mind.

Sometimes a ring of rope is required and this can be quickly and easily obtained by making agrommet(Fig. 22). To make a grommet unlay and cut a longstrand from a common rope, bend it around in a circle of the desired size, lay one end over the other and with the long end follow the grooves orlayof the strand until it comes back to where it started, thus forming a ring of two strands. Continue laying the free end into the groove between the two strands until the ring is completed with three strands all around and then finish by dividing the yarns of the two ends where they meet, making overhand knots in them and then passing them underneath the nearest strands, as when making a splice, and finally trim off all loose, projecting yarns.

These grommets make very good quoits and they may also be used as handles to chests and boxes, rings for masts of small boats and for many other purposes.

After the common useful knots and splices have been thoroughly mastered it is well to learn how to make a few ornamental knots and ropework. Many of these are really useful about a boat while others add greatly to the neat, yachty appearance of ropes, rigging, etc.

At first sight most ornamental knots appear very complicated and difficult, but they are really no harder to tie than a bowline or a reef knot, once you know how.

In tying fancy knots you will find cotton rope or very fine hemp better than Manilla, but after you are really skillful you will find no trouble in forming any knot in any old rope that is handy.

The two most important of fancy knots and those which are the foundation of many others are thecrown,(Figs. 23, 24) and thewall, (Figs. 25, 26). TheMatthew Walker, (Fig. 32) and theTurk’s head, (Fig. 33) are also very beautiful and useful knots and by the use of these four and their various combinations an endless number of fancy knots may be devised. Many of these combinations of two or more knots have become so generally used that they have received specific names and are now recognized as regular knots. Such are thewall and crown,double wall and crown, etc.

In addition to true ornamental knots there are various other forms of fancy ropework, such asworming,parcelling,serving,sennett work,thumming, etc., whilefour-stranded and crown-braidsare used in making ornamental lanyards, hand lines, rope fenders, etc.

Ornamental Knots

The simplest of ornamental knots is thecrownand it is well to commence with this. Unlay the strands of the rope for a few inches. Seize or whip the ends of the rope as when making a short splice. Now while holding the rope in your left hand, fold one strand over and away from you as in A, Fig. 23; then fold B over A and while holding these in place with your thumb and finger pass C over B and through the bight of A, as shown in the cut. Now pull the ends tight and work the bights up snugly and your knot will be thesingle crown, but as this is a poor knot to stay tied and is not very ornamental, it should be finished by tucking the free ends under and over the strands of the rope as shown in Fig. 24, meanwhile tapering them down as described in the directions for making an eye splice.

This results in a very neat and ship shape finish for a rope’s end and as it will never work loose like a seizing and can be tied in a very few moments, it can be recommended as the handiest and best of all methods for finishing the ends of ropes to prevent unravelling.

As simple as the crown and far more attractive, is thewall knot, Figs. 25, 26. In making this knot unlay and whip the rope as for the crown and make a bight in the strand C by bringing the end down and across the standing part. Then bring strand A over C and around the standing part, and finally bring B over A and up through the bight of C. Draw all the ends tight and snug and thesingle wallwill be finished. As in the case with thecrown knot, this is mainly of value as a basis for other knots, or for ending rope by tucking in the ends as shown in Fig. 26.

By “doubling” the wall or crown, the knots are made far more ornamental. This is done byfollowing the layof the single knot, or in other words, after the single wall or crown is made the strands are carried around side by side of themselves. To make adouble wall knotmake the single knot and then, before drawing it tight, bring the strand A up through its own bight beside the end of C. Then bring B up through its own bight beside A and carry C up through its own bight beside B. When drawn tight it will be very neat. The ends may be trimmed off or tucked through the strands of the standing part as preferred. (Fig. 26.)

A still more ornamental knot may be formed bycrowninga wall knot. This is done by first making a plain wall knot and then bringing A up over the top, laying B across A and bringing C over B and through the bight of A, or in other words, tying a crown knot on top of a wall knot, (Fig. 27).

This is the foundation for one of the most beautiful of rope-end knots which is known as thedouble wall and crownormanrope knot. (Fig. 28.) To make this, tie the single wall, crown it and leave the strands slack. Then pass the ends under and up through the bights of the single wall knot and then push the ends alongside of the strands which form the single crown knot, passing them through the bights in the crown and down through the walling.

If you have learned the single wall and single crown, you will find this very simple, for it consists in merely following the lay of the strands of the single wall and crown. When well done and worked up tight and snug with the ends trimmed off closely it makes a highly ornamental knot, (Fig. 28), and if the ends are tucked into the standing part, as directed for tying the single crown, there should be no sign of a beginning or ending to this knot, the finished result appearing like an ornamental knob of rope.

This is a useful as well as an ornamental knot and is handy in many places on a boat. It is often used in finishing the ends of rope railings, the ends of manropes (hence its name) for the ends of yoke lines for steering small boats, to formstoppersortogglesto bucket-handles, slings, etc., and in fact, wherever a large ornamental end to a rope is required or wherea knot is desired to prevent a rope from slipping through any aperture.

Its use for such purposes is shown in Figs. 29, 30 and 31 which represent topsail halyard toggles, formed by turning an eye splice in a short length of rope with a double wall and crown at the end. Such toggles are useful for many purposes other than for topsail halyards. They may be used as stops for furling sails, for slings around gaffs or booms, for attaching blocks when hoisting and in many other places which will suggest themselves to the user of a small boat.

Another very beautiful end knot, and the most difficult of all to make is theMatthew Walkerorstopper knot(Fig. 32). To tie this knot pass one strand around the standing part and through its own bight, then pass B underneath and through the bight of A and through its own bight as well. Then pass C underneath, around and through the bights of A, B and its own bight. The knot will not appear as at Fig. 32 A, but by carefully hauling the ends around and working the bights up tight—a little at a time, the knot will assume the shape shown in Fig. 32 B. This is a splendid knot for the ends of ropes to prevent them from slipping through holes, as it is hard, close and presents an almost flat shoulder on its lower side. It is because of its adaption to such purposes that the name “stopper knot” has been given to it.

All of the preceding are end knots, but a knot of a very different sort, which is widely used for ornamenting ropes, is theTurk’s head(Fig. 33). Turk’s heads are used in decorating lower standing rigging, for ringsor shoulders on shrouds or ropes, to secure other rigging in position, to ornament yoke lines, for forming sliding collars on knife lanyards and for collars around stanchions, spars, oars, etc., and when placed around a rope close beneath a manrope or Matthew Walker knot it gives a very beautiful and elaborate finish to a rope.

Although so handsome and apparently intricate, the Turk’s head is a very simple and easy knot to make and while you may have some difficulty in mastering it at the first a little practice and perseverance will enable you to become proficient and you will be able to tie this beautiful knot at any time and in any position.

To learn to make this knot obtain a smooth, round stick and some closely twisted, or braided, small line. Pass two turns with the line around the rod, as at A, Fig. 33, pass the upper bight down through the lower bight and reeve the upper end down through it, as at B, Fig. 33. Then pass the bight up again and pass the end over the lower bight and up between it and the upper bight. Dip the upper bight again through the lower bight and pass the end over what is now the upper bight and between it and the lower one, as at C, Fig. 33. Continue to work around in this manner to the right until the other end is met when the other part should be followed around until a plait of two or more lays is complete as shown in the cut.

Ropework

The various bights should then be drawn snugly until there is no slack and the completed knot fits tightly about the rod. A variation of this knot may be formed by making the first part as directed and then by slippingthe knot to the end of the rod work one side tighter than the other until the plaits form a complete cap (Fig. 33 D). This makes a fine finish for the ends of stanchions, poles, flagstaffs, etc., and it may be kept in position by a few tacks or small nails driven through the inner strands into the woodwork.

Ropes that are to be used as handlines, stanchions, manropes, lifelines, shrouds or, in fact, for any purpose where appearances count, are usuallywormed,servedandparcelled.Wormingconsists of twisting a small line or filler into the grooves and making the rope smooth and ready for parcelling or serving.Parcellingis done by wrapping the wormed line with a narrow strip of canvas (Fig. 34 B), and finally the whole isservedby being wrapped tightly with marline or spun yarn (Fig. 34 C).

Although all this may be done by hand the serving is usually accomplished by means of a tool known as a serving mallet (Fig. 34 D). This instrument enables one to work much more evenly and tightly than is possible by hand serving, but whether a mallet is used or you depend upon hand serving, the rope to be treated must be stretched tightly between two uprights or the result will never be satisfactory. Sometimes a rope is served without either worming or parcelling and for ordinary purposes the parcelling is not necessary; although the results obtained by performing all these operations are very much more satisfactory.

A variation in serving is made by means ofhalf-hitchwork as shown in Fig. 35. This is very ornamental when well done and is very simple and easy toaccomplish. To make this covering, take a half-hitch with the small line about the rope, then another below it, draw snug, take another half-hitch and continue in this way until the rope or other object, is covered and the half-hitches form a spiral row of knots running around the covered object. Bottles, jugs, ropes, stanchions, fenders and many other articles may be covered with this half-hitch work and as you become expert you will be able to cover objects with several alternating rows of half-hitches.

Four-strand braidingis also highly ornamental and is very simple. To do this (Fig. 36), merely cross the opposite strands of small lines as illustrated in A, B, Fig. 36 B, first crossing A to the left of B, then crossing C and D above A and B and continue in this way until the braid is the desired length.

Still more decorative is acrown braid, which is made by forming one crown knot over another.

Awall braidmay be made by forming a series of single wall knots in the same way and either the crown or wall braiding may be done with any number of strands or lines desired; the more strands used the finer and more ornamental will be the braid produced.

Sometimes themonkey chain, Fig. 38, is used for ornamental work, but it is more useful as a means of shortening rope in such a manner that it may be quickly lengthened out for use. To make themonkey chaindraw a loop of the rope through its own bight as at A, B, Fig. 38; draw another loop through this (C, Fig. 38), another through this (D, Fig. 38), and continue in this way until the rope is shortened as much asdesired, when the end may then be passed through the last bight as shown at E, Fig. 38. If left in this way the chain will never come loose and yet the rope may be lengthened instantly by slipping out the end and pulling upon it whereupon the entire chain will ravel.

Once having mastered these various knots and splices you will find little difficulty in selecting and tying the best knot for any purpose which may arise, but no description of knots would be complete without a few hints on slinging barrels, casks or other objects.

Three of the best and simplest slings are shown in Figs. 39, 40 and 41. The first, Fig. 39, shows a handy and useful sling for bags or bales and consists of a strap or length of rope with the two ends spliced together and slipnoosed around the object as shown. A large grommet also makes a good sling of this type. Fig. 40 shows how to sling a cask or barrel in an upright position when it contains water or other contents, while in Fig. 41, a sling for hoisting barrels, boxes or other articles is illustrated. In this case the rope may be used with an eye splice at one end as shown, or it may be merely tied with a bowline or other good knot. Sometimes a sling is used which has an eye splice at each end and if you have one or two slings readymade with finished ends, or with eye splices turned in them, you will find they are very useful and will save a lot of time and trouble, for they can be used for many purposes other than as slings.

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