How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, also for one's own use at home. How to use the iron and sponge cloths. How to press hard finished worsteds. How to press single and double breasted sack coats, overcoats, rain coats, Tuxedos, motormen and conductors, also fatigue coats, cutaways, morning, dress coats, Prince Alberts, military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot. All kind of jackets, coats and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and fancy vests. How to press trousers.
How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, also for one's use at home.
To prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose, use unbleached cotton four yards long, (or as long as the cloth to be shrunk requires), boil in soap and water for one hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint, then it is ready for use.
Place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean floor, then wet the sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail or basin of warm water so that it will get thoroughly wet, wring out almost dry (but not so dry as when pressing) and place over the goods smoothly, see that the cloth is free from wrinkles. Make a flat roll six inches wide, or as wide as a wrapping board would be (do not roll on a board as it will leave a mark difficult to remove). Roll evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly covered, sides and ends with sponge cloth.
Time required for goods to remain in sponge.Close woven material, such as hard finished worsteds, broad cloth, kerseys, meltons and beavers, require to be left in sponge three hours while open wove goods, such as homespuns, unfinished worsteds, soft overcoatings, and ladies'cloth requires but two hours. When goods is ready to be taken out of sponge, unroll and place over a round pole, (sufficient height to allow cloth to clear the floor), or lay smoothly on a table or floor.
When dry, fold (not roll) double, and so on until you have a fold seven or eight inches wide, and small enough to place in a package.
The wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron, being careful not to allow gloss to form, and see that iron is not hot enough to burn or scorch cloth. Also to see that ends are even especially on stripes and checks, and to see that checks and plaids match.
When pressing always have the iron to the right on the table, the edge of the garment facing toward the presser. Start pressing the right side of all garments first. In this way forming a system of doing the work.
When pressing all kinds of coats, vests, ladies' jackets and coats, have the neck, collar, or waist seam lying on the small end of the press-jack, and start from the center back seam of all coats and vests, and press forward on the right side, toward the front edge.
To press the left side of all coats and vests, reverse the press-jack and garment so that neck, collar waist seam or band is lying to the left. Commencing as before, from the center back seam of garment, and continue pressing left side, and around to the front edge, which must be facing the presser.
Coats, vests, jackets and coats, should be placed on hangers to retain their proper shape.
A good iron rest for the table, is made by nailing a smooth horseshoe to a block of wood, a trifle larger than the shoe.
When using the under woolen press cloth, cotton sponge cloth and iron, lay the under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth on that part of the garment to be pressed, and apply the iron until sponge cloth shows signs of drying. Then remove the cloths and iron, and slap with the back of the brush that part just pressed, to refreshen same, and brush the part pressed, with the thread or nap of the fabric; thus making the garment look like new. Go over the entire garment (and all garments) in this manner until the whole garment has been pressed.
When trousers have been pressed, place them over a round pole, suspended from the ceiling, or fastened to the wall with brackets. A still better way is to place them on individual hangers.
Do not give customers garments damp from pressing, place them on hangers and allow them to remain for one hour before wearing or delivering.
Do not try to press clothes that are damp from cleaning or otherwise. Allow them to thoroughly dry, when they will press more easily, and customers better satisfied, by giving them first-rate work.
When a garment has been pressed all over, examine it thoroughly for gloss, and where any appears, remove it as explained (in how to press hard finished worsteds.)
This process should be followed carefully when pressing all kinds of garments.
When pressing, the iron should never be shoved or pushed, as in ironing, as before explained; as it is apt to stretch where not required. Only heavy materials require heavy pressing or great strength. Whatever the material, pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and slowly. When pressing seams, allow the iron to touch only the center of the seam, then the edges of the seam will not be outlined on the outside of the garment. This however, is only intended for light weight goods, as when pressing seams in heavy material, it is necessary to press more solid.
How to press hard finished worsteds.When pressing hard finished worsteds, place under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth over the part to be pressed, (wring sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible), and apply the iron, not too hot, allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is entirely dry. (This is termed by tailors, as dry pressing or glossing). Now remove iron, and press cloths and place a damp part of the sponge cloth over that part just pressed, to remove the gloss, if any, by applying the iron lightly, and slap with the back of the brush while steaming. Also brushing the nap of the cloth.
Avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges and collar, unless it is required, (and the presser understands where to stretch, and is familiar with the fitting qualities of the garment.) When pressing around the pockets, have flaps on the outside, and turn pockets insideout before cleaning, that all dust and dirt may be removed, then return the pockets to their proper place before starting to press.
When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack, to be pressed, and one notices fullness along front edges and bottom, press fullness away by laying under press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be pressed and leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry, then remove cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron again to remove gloss as explained before. Always have edge of garments pointing toward the presser. This may be learned and accomplished in a short time with little practice.
How to clean and press single and double breasted sack coats, motormen and conductors, also fatigue: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary whip with cane, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. Turn all pockets inside out, and have flaps on the outside. Remove all spots; special care must be taken to remove grease and dirt from the collar, also the fronts, with the cleaning fluid. Place on coat hangers and when dry, proceed to press as follows:
Have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the right, draw the right cuff over the small end of the press-jack which should be pointing to the right. Lay the sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be pressed, (which you have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin of warm water used for that purpose and wrung until almost dry), then apply the iron until the sponge cloths shows sign of drying. Then remove the sponge cloths and iron, and slap with the back of brush (as has been explained.)
Continue this around the right sleeve cuff, and also the left. Then with the coat in the same position, reverse the press-jack and place the right sleeve, top side up on the large end of the press-jack, being careful to have the sleeve smoothed out nicely, then lay sponge cloths over and apply the iron, pressing full length and width, up and down the sleeve, (being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed in the sleeve.)
Remove the cloths and iron as before, slapping with the back of the brush, then brushing the nap to refreshen the cloth.
Turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the same.
Press left sleeve in the same manner. Crease sleeves front and back, if requested by customer.
Reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat over the small end of the press-jack in a convenient manner, and press around the armholes, by laying the sponge cloths on the part to be pressed. Apply the iron as before, and then slap with the back of the brush. Now press around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner.
Next place the coat so that the collar points to the right on the large end of the press-jack. Lay the sponge cloths on the back of the coat, applying the iron as before, and press down back and around right side of coat to the front edge; always having the edge of the garment toward the presser. Reverse press-jack and coat, then as before, commence pressing at the center back seam, and forward to the front edge. This completes the left side.
Place the coat on table or tailor's bench, and reverse press-jack; lift coat and place collar or press-jack in a convenient way, so that the collar and lapel, when pressed, will be creased the same as when worn.
Commence pressing from the center of collar to the right side of lapel, being careful not to stretch the edges of lapel or collar. Then from the center of collar at the back, press forward on left side as before. Turn coat inside out, and smooth lining with cool iron, and with an almost dry sponge cloth. This will remove any wrinkles, and leave the lining smooth.
Now press the right side of facing and lapel, by laying four-ply of wadding on the press-jack, and place right forepart of coat so that the buttons face toward the wadding, and press on the wrong side, the buttons will sink into the wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of same, which is very easily done if great care is not taken. Now remove the wadding and press left side on the padded side of press-jack in the usual manner. Now turn the coat right side out, place right shoulder in a convenient manner on the small end of the press-jack, and if any wrinkles appear on top of the right sleeve head, press them out. Do the same with the left side.
Look coat over thoroughly for gloss, if any appears, place coat on press-jack in a convenient manner and remove as explained.
When pressing coats, be careful to have the flaps on the outside, the pockets returned to their proper place inside, before starting to press.
Roll fronts of coats to the inside, so that they will retain their proper shape, also to give to them that chesty effect, which is very essential, in the pressing of all kinds of coats, and vests. One will soon become familiar with the work by a little practice.
Place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Sack overcoats, rain-coats and Tuxedos, are pressed in the same way.
How to clean and press cutaway dress, Prince Albert, military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot.The above garments are cleaned and pressed the same as other garments, but with this difference:—Coats with skirts are pressed from the collar or neck to the waist line or seam, then moved up to the waist line or seam, and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt, and around to the front, having the edge of the garment pointing toward the presser. All coats lined with silk are pressed very lightly, especially lapels and facings (as the mark of the iron shows easy; and on silks is difficult to remove.)
Silk should look fluffy in a garment, and therefore does not require much pressing. Great care must be taken when cleaning, pressing, and repairing dress suits, Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and any garment that is silk lined. The price to charge for such work may only be figured by the amount of silk, and time required to do the work. Silk facings may be had by mailing samples to this office, and we will send price list.
How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary, whip with cane to remove all dust and dirt. Remove all spots with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, but with the following differences: Press around cuffs, sleeves and shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, then start at the center back seam and press forward to the front edge, having the collar or neck pointing to the right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the presser. Reverse the press-jack, coat or jacket, and commence pressing as before, down the back seam and aroundleft side to front edge. Lay sleeves on the press-jack and press as before, being careful to have plaits in the right creases and the gatherings in their proper place. Do not allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the sleeves than is needed.
How to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies, Brush thoroughly and whip if necessary, turn the skirt inside out, and brush dust and dirt, from the seams and bottom. Clean all grease spots, if any, with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: Draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to the left, on the small end of the press-jack; the skirt to be drawn on the press-jack to the left. Use the sponge cloths and iron the same as when pressing other garments. Press around the top of the skirt and as far below as the press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to have the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or baste plaits in their proper creases before starting to press.
When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press very hard, only until the steam arises, then slap with the back of the brush to keep steam in the goods, also to refreshen the garment. Place on skirt hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any appears, remove as explained.
How to clean and press single and double breasted vests, clerical, with or without collar: Brush thoroughly and whip with cane, if necessary, to remove dust and dirt, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. Turn all pockets inside out to remove all dust and dirt from them. Then remove all spots with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place on coat hanger, and when dry, press as follows: Place the right forepart of the vest smooth on the press-jack, with the edge facing the presser, and the neck or the collar pointing to the right. Cover with sponge cloths and apply the iron until the cloth shows signs of drying. Remove and slap with the back of the brush, then brush the nap of the cloth to refreshen and make it look like new, being careful not to stretch the opening when pressing the forepart and shoulders.
When pressing the foreparts of vests, start at the side seams, and press forward to the front edge. Now reverse the press-jack and vest and press left side in the same manner, around the shoulders and arm holes. Now smooth the wrinkles from the back, starting from the center andpressing forward to the right side seam; then press the left side in the same manner. This removes the wrinkles, and may be done with almost dry sponge cloth and medium warm iron.
All vests are pressed in the same way, with the exception of fancy or white vests. With these use a plain white cotton cloth, and wet sponge with clean water.
Fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before pressing.
Wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give body to goods, then iron when almost dry. Turn all pockets inside out before starting to press. The pockets are pressed first, then returned to their proper place, thereby keeping the mouth of the pocket neat and even. Continue the ironing until the vest is completed. With a little practice, one will soon become familiar with the work. Always being careful not to stretch the opening. Rather shrink in, by pressing in a half circle from left to right toward the front edge.
When pressing vests examine the pockets and see if there is a chamois watch pocket, if there is sew or fasten a piece of cloth on the outside of vest pocket as a reminder not to press over the pocket; if you did it would spoil the chamois, and a new pocket would have to be put in for the customer.
How to clean and press trousers: Brush thoroughly from the right side, and whip, if necessary, then turn them inside out. Also the pockets. See that all dust and dirt is thoroughly removed, also lint from the seams. Then turn right side out, and remove all dirt and grease spots with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place on hangers, and when dry, proceed to press as follows: Place trousers flat on a covered table with the knees up (trousers being turned inside out) wet bags at knee with sponge. Apply the iron, not too hot and press in a circle to the center, to remove and shrink away the bag; now do the same with the left leg. Turn trousers right side out, and press around bottoms, same as in pressing the cuffs on coats. Reverse press-jack and trousers, and press around tops with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or end of fly, starting from the right side of fly and pressing around to the left fly. Remove the press-jack and lay trousers flat on the table or bench that has been covered with felt or cloth (melton, kersey or thibet). Place creasesat the bottom together with the left hand, and with the right hand place the two top suspender buttons together, then lay them flat on the bench or lengthwise of the table. Then turn the left leg back as far as the seat line, and straighten the right leg out smooth on the table. Cover with the sponge cloths and apply the iron, pressing full length of leg, until cloths shows sign of drying, pressing the front and back creases sharp. Then remove the iron and sponge cloths, then slap with the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten the cloth or garment. Now turn the leg over and press other side in the same manner; then turn leg over to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the right bottom. Turn trousers over, and then turn the right leg back, and proceed to press the left inside leg the same as right. Turn left leg over and press outside. Now turn left leg over to inside as at first, bringing the right leg down to meet the left at the bottom, then have both legs lying perfectly even on top of each other. Press them together from fly or seat line, down to the bottom. Turn trousers over, and press other side in the same manner, using the back of brush for slapping and face to brush nap of cloth. Then place the press-jack on the table again, with the small end pointing to the right, then draw the right bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack, and press crease out through the turn up. Do this at the front and back about two inches from the bottom. Now press the bottom of left leg the same way.
Some customers do not want this crease taken out, then of course it is to be left in. But custom-made trousers are usually not pressed through the turn up.
This completes the pressing of trousers, place on hangers before wearing or delivering. By practice, one may soon become an expert.
Broadfalls are pressed in the same way. Examine for gloss, and if any, remove as explained.
Amount required, for suits, vests, trousers, overcoats, dress suits and Prince Albert suits, Tuxedos, Paddock, Paletot; also ladies' waists, jackets (long and short), and skirts. The amount of material required to reline coats,vests, and top of trousers; ladies' coats and jackets; velvet collars and silk facings.
Amount of goods required for the following garments:
Sack Suits—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.Cutaway or Morning Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.Prince Albert Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3¾ yards, 54 inches wide.Tuxedo Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.Dress Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.Sack Overcoat—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 42 inches long, 2¾ yards, 54 inches wide.Trousers—30 to 42 inches waist measure, 36 to 42 seat measure, 30½ to 34 inside leg measure, 1½ yards.Vests—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 1 yard, 54 inches wide.Paddock or Palitot—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 4 yards, 54 inches wide.Ladies' Shirt Waist—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 3½ yards, 27 inches wide.Ladies' Jackets and Coats (short)—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 2½ yards, 54 inches wide.Ladies' Jackets and Coats (long)—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 4½ yards, 54 inches wide.Ladies' Skirts—20 to 42 inches waist measure, 40 to 44 inches long, 4½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Sack Suits—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Cutaway or Morning Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Prince Albert Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3¾ yards, 54 inches wide.
Tuxedo Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Dress Suit—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Sack Overcoat—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 42 inches long, 2¾ yards, 54 inches wide.
Trousers—30 to 42 inches waist measure, 36 to 42 seat measure, 30½ to 34 inside leg measure, 1½ yards.
Vests—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 1 yard, 54 inches wide.
Paddock or Palitot—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 4 yards, 54 inches wide.
Ladies' Shirt Waist—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 3½ yards, 27 inches wide.
Ladies' Jackets and Coats (short)—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 2½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Ladies' Jackets and Coats (long)—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 4½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Ladies' Skirts—20 to 42 inches waist measure, 40 to 44 inches long, 4½ yards, 54 inches wide.
Amount of goods required to reline the following garments:
Sack or Tuxedo Coat—2 yards, 32 inch or 1½ yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth, or silk, to match. 1 yard fancy sateen sleeve lining.Overcoats—42 inches long, 2½ yards, 32 inches wide or 2 yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Italian cloth, or Circassian. 1½ yards satin sleeve lining, 20 inches wide. Or 1 yard, 40 inch Lusterene sleeve lining.Overcoats, Silk or Satin Lined Throughout—Require from 4 to 5 yards.Vests—7/8 yard, 32 or 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth or silk, for outside back. 1 yard 20 inch fancy sateen, for inside body lining.Trousers—½ yard 20 inch colored sateen, for waist band lining.Dress Coats—Prince Alberts, 3 yards 30 inch silk, for the former, and 4 yards, for the latter.Tuxedo Facing—1 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.Dress or Prince Albert (fancy)—7/8 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.Velvet Collars for Overcoats—vary in width from 4½ to 6 inches wide on the bias. This may be determined when velvet collar is ripped off by measuring width.
Sack or Tuxedo Coat—2 yards, 32 inch or 1½ yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth, or silk, to match. 1 yard fancy sateen sleeve lining.
Overcoats—42 inches long, 2½ yards, 32 inches wide or 2 yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Italian cloth, or Circassian. 1½ yards satin sleeve lining, 20 inches wide. Or 1 yard, 40 inch Lusterene sleeve lining.
Overcoats, Silk or Satin Lined Throughout—Require from 4 to 5 yards.
Vests—7/8 yard, 32 or 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth or silk, for outside back. 1 yard 20 inch fancy sateen, for inside body lining.
Trousers—½ yard 20 inch colored sateen, for waist band lining.
Dress Coats—Prince Alberts, 3 yards 30 inch silk, for the former, and 4 yards, for the latter.
Tuxedo Facing—1 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.
Dress or Prince Albert (fancy)—7/8 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.
Velvet Collars for Overcoats—vary in width from 4½ to 6 inches wide on the bias. This may be determined when velvet collar is ripped off by measuring width.
When new buttons are required, replace with as near as possible to the original.
When using silk, and buttonhole twist, match cloth as near as can be had.
Under this lesson is explained the care of clothes. How to keep them looking fresh and clean. How to be well dressed.
Care of clothes: Cleaning, brushing, repairing and pressing frequently is a step in the right channel, for a man's appearance depends largely upon the care he takes of his clothes. Clothes should be brushed often especially after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung up in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. Coats and vest should always be placed on coat hangers together to retain their shape, and to be ready for wear when wanted. The loop at the back of the coat collar, should never be used to hang coats up by but for a few minutes, as the weight of garments will pull the collar out of shape.
Trousers after being brushed thoroughly, should be turned inside out, and placed on hangers, by doing this you are reversing the folds and wrinkles that have formed while wearing, thereby allowing the cloth to fall back into place. It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knees, but may be prevented in this way. Fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to both leg seams across top and bottom of silk, seven inchesabove and ten inches below the knee, being careful when sewing not to let the stitches show through on the out side. Another suggestion and a good one, is to buy two pairs trousers with each suit (except a dress suit, then it is not necessary) and wear them alternately, two days at a time, and have them pressed each time you change, and turned inside out each night.
It is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of one's wardrobe from which to hang these forms, thereby saving much space especially in the smaller houses. Care should be taken to draw trousers up well when wearing, so that they will set properly. When trousers are worn without suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, shorter in the legs and closer around the waist. If one wears suspenders it is a luxury to have a pair for each pair of trousers. Then when one adjustment is made saves any further bother.
Brushing clothes is a very simple but necessary operation, a fact which few people thoroughly appreciate. Fine clothes require brushing lightly with a soft brush, except when mud is to be removed, then a stiff brush should be used, after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the dirt. Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they injure the fibre of the cloth. When brushing lay the coat on a table, and brush in the direction of the thread or nap of the fabric.
A well made, well fitting garment should not be thrown away when slightly worn, but should be repaired, cleaned and pressed. Many times lasting as long after being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely necessary never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. If the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, the same as the material in the garment (or as near as possible) under the weakened part and darn to this piece. One may back stitch with silk to match the cloth, or make a small running stitch. When the entire part has been thoroughly darned, turn the garment inside out and herringbone all around the piece of cloth (or patch to the inside) being careful not to allow stitches to show through on the outside. Press and they are ready for wear. This is especially good when repairing the seat of trousers.
Tape is invaluable in repairing, as it may be used to strengthen weak places and where buttons are to be sewed,acting as a stay, also saving time of turning the edges of the cloth in, and is less clumsy.
Ruskin says, "Clothes carefully cared for, and rightly worn, show a balance of mind and respect."
The freshness of a garment depends upon the care taken of it, and only requires a few minutes each time they are taken off; they should be carefully brushed, to remove all dust and dirt, removing all spots, buttons sewed on and replaced when worn, new braid on the bottoms of skirts, cleaning and pressing, making little necessary alterations. All these little duties given proper attention, will keep a wardrobe fresh and in good order.
It is not always the wear on the clothes, that tell so sadly upon them. It is the care that they receive. A few garments, well made and properly fitted, and good care taken of them, is far more preferable than a number of inferior quality and make.
When clothing is laid away for another season, they should first be thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and pressed, to be ready for wear when needed. If placed in bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be sprinkled over freely. Tailors' boxes are very good to place garments in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the outside as to the contents.
Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful when folding sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be turned to lie flat; collars turned up, and the coat folded in the center back seam, sleeves lying together and on top of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and place in the box.
If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the sleeves with tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling.
To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good material and fit well. The length of waist, and full length should be in proportion to the wearer, or as near fashion as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right length, and hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be neat and even, the opening in front should close without bulging when buttoned, and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms, and no wrinkles below the collar. The whole appearance of the garment must be easy, the chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while thewaist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The arm hole should not be too deep so that the coat will remain in its proper position while sitting as when standing. The buttonholes must be neat, and the buttons sewed on good and strong with neck.
The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of fashionable length, sleeves to cover the under coat, and to fit close around the neck (sleeves of a rain coat may be longer than those of an ordinary overcoat), and must be the same length at front and back at bottom.
A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and down, whether sitting or stooping, more especially the former.
A great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug. One will never get a good fitting vest in this way. A vest should come up close around the collar, and high enough, so that it will not crawl under the linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor make one's clothes.
Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample size over the hips, knee, and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom, (some wear them very short with cuff or French bottoms, this is a style for college towns, and is not universal.) The waist should be the proper height and size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, the waist must fit closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout men do not want their trousers very long waisted and up under their arms, therefore great care must be taken when selecting, cutting and making stout men's trousers. When trying on a pair of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the mirror in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when looking at the trousers, look at them in the mirror; do not look down upon them as many do, and often condemn a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping and looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing natural, hang smooth and straight.
How to fold coats, vests, trousers, ladies' jackets, coats and skirts. How to place each garment in boxesfor storing, delivering, shipping, the marking names and addresses on same.
How to fold all kinds of coats, for delivery, traveling, storing, or shipping. Turn sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds come at the bend of the elbow, now turn the lapels and fronts back over the folded sleeves, then fold the skirts over and up level with the collar, so that the crease will fold about the center of the garment, then double one-half over the other so that the folds come in the center back seam.
To fold vests: Place two foreparts together right side out, having the edges and side seams even and on top of each other, then fold back over fronts of vest so that back seam lays perpendicular with the front edge, straighten wrinkles out of shoulder. Then fold neck, or collar down level with the bottom, so that the crease will fold about the center of the garment, or bottom of arm hole.
To fold trousers: Place two top suspender buttons together and front creases at bottoms even and on top of each other up and down the leg, lay smooth on the table, then fold backs over on fronts to meet front creases and taper to nothing, to about six inches above the knee, then fold legs, bringing the bottoms up level with the top of trousers, so that bend will come about the knee or half the entire length of trousers. Then place in box for delivery. If, however, trousers are to be placed in a paper package for delivery, or to be folded small for packing, the following is an easy method, when backs are folded over to meet the front creases, and legs are lying smooth on the table, divide the entire length of the trousers in three parts making two folds, one three inches below the seat line or fork, the other about fifteen inches from the bottom, place in paper to deliver.
When a suit is to be placed in a box for delivery, lay trousers in first, (folded as first explained), the vest next and the coat last, place cover on box, and wrap with heavy cord to hold top and bottom together, also for convenience when carrying.
Ladies' jackets and coats are folded the same as men's, either short or long.
Ladies' skirts are folded in this manner, if plain, take front of waist band in the right hand, and with the leftfind center front of skirt at bottom, lay on table and fold front over to meet the center back seam of skirt, then fold double and place in box or package, for delivery. When skirt is plaited see that the plaits lay in the proper creases, and fold as explained above, being careful not to make too small a package so as not to crush.
The firm name should be printed on the cover of the box together with these words, "Please unpack and place on hangers as soon as received." This prevents clothes from wrinkling badly. The customer's name and address should be written plainly in the space left for that purpose on the cover of the box.
When sending a package by express or other carrying companies, it is best to mark the value of the contents of the package on the cover.
Testing woolen cloth and silk: The great value of wool as a fibre, lies in the fact that it is strong, elastic, soft and very susceptible to dye stuffs, and being woven, furnishes a great number of air spaces, thereby rendering clothing made from it very warm and light.
Wool may be dissolved completely by a warm solution of caustic soda.
Cloth may be tested by unravelling a corner of a piece of cloth, lighting it with a match. If the flame runs along, and goes out, leaving a brown ash, and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it contains cotton. If it burns and curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ashes black like charcoal, and is gritty when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it is a pretty sure indication, that it is all wool.
The strength of a piece of cloth, may be tested by a thread removed from the goods, by holding one end with the right hand, and the other with the left. Pull, and if it breaks off short, it is not a strong piece of goods, and would not wear well; but if it pulls out long and stringy, and upon examination one finds the fiber from one to two inches long, this may be considered a good piece of goods, and would wear well.
Silk may be tested by unravelling an end, and burning the threads. If the ash is brown and is smooth whenrubbed between the thumb and finger, this would not be considered pure dye silk. If, however, when lighted, it curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ash black and when rubbed between the thumb and finger, and is gritty like charcoal, one may feel sure that it is pure dye stuff and will give excellent wear and will not crack.
Price list for cleaning and pressing the following garments. Repairing and reliningextra:
Business Suits, Tuxedos Suits, Dress Suits, Overcoats, Ladies' Coats and Jackets, $1.00 and upwards.Single Vests and Trousers, 25c. each and upward.Ladies' Skirts, 75 cents and upward.Coats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 extra.Ladies' Coats, Jackets and Skirts, steam or dry cleaned $1.00 extra.Vests and Trousers, 50 cents extra.Overcoats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 to $2.00 extra.Relining Coats, $3.00 and upward; Vests, $1.25 and upward.New Waist Band Lining for Trousers, 75c. and upward.New Velvet Collars, $1.50 and upward.Single Velvet Collars to buy, cost from 50 cents upward.New Silk Facings, $3.00 and upward per yard.Body Lining costs from 50 cents upward per yard.Sateen Sleeve and Vest Lining costs from 25 cents upward per yard.Silk and Satin Linings cost from $2.00 and upward per yard.Velvet by the yard costs from $3.00 upward.
Business Suits, Tuxedos Suits, Dress Suits, Overcoats, Ladies' Coats and Jackets, $1.00 and upwards.
Single Vests and Trousers, 25c. each and upward.
Ladies' Skirts, 75 cents and upward.
Coats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 extra.
Ladies' Coats, Jackets and Skirts, steam or dry cleaned $1.00 extra.
Vests and Trousers, 50 cents extra.
Overcoats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 to $2.00 extra.
Relining Coats, $3.00 and upward; Vests, $1.25 and upward.
New Waist Band Lining for Trousers, 75c. and upward.
New Velvet Collars, $1.50 and upward.
Single Velvet Collars to buy, cost from 50 cents upward.
New Silk Facings, $3.00 and upward per yard.
Body Lining costs from 50 cents upward per yard.
Sateen Sleeve and Vest Lining costs from 25 cents upward per yard.
Silk and Satin Linings cost from $2.00 and upward per yard.
Velvet by the yard costs from $3.00 upward.
Workmen are usually paid from 20 cents to 30 cents per hour. Customers are usually charged 50 cents per hour for time required to do the work. All work done must be figured by the time required to do the work.
How to dress well.The first thought to consider in supplying our wardrobe, is the material. Let it be of good quality. Cheap stuff is never good unless it is good quality at a low price.
One good suit of clothes, or dress, gives better satisfaction (in lasting qualities, appearance and general makeup) than two suits at the same price.
A well selected piece of goods, tailored by a reliable tailor, always looks well, and may be kept repaired, cleaned and pressed into shape occasionally, a fact that few men properly understand. While the low priced suit never has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit, and cannot be kept looking as neat.
Made to order garments are always fitted and made better (if by a reliable maker). In this way, one has the privilege of trying on and be fitted; then when a perfect pattern has been made for you, your future garments may be made from that pattern (changing the style of course, but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern.)
Men and women have their individual peculiarities, such as one shoulder low, or one may be sloping shouldered, another square, erect and stooping, etc. All these different variations must be taken into consideration when making custom made garments (or garments made to one's individual measurements), and all well dressed men and women should have their garments made to order. They are more easily cleaned, pressed and repaired, for their building and make up has been studied and put together by skilled mechanics.
Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much money on dress, should wear dark materials for suitings. Dark morning suits may be worn on many occasions when a light suit would be bad taste. Fashion should be followed, but avoid extremes. The wrinkles and bags at the knees should be pressed out frequently. Close woven cloth keeps its shape in garments better. The vest should always be buttoned. Remove buttons on all garments as soon as they show sign of wearing, and replace with new.
Skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closely around the waist, and loose over the chest to give thewearer that athletic appearance. This tends to make the wearer stand straighter.
On the other hand, if a coat or vest is tight over the chest, it tends to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of men who do not wear suspenders, is generally better than those who wear them.
When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across the chest, in many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor cannot add anything to the front after the garment is completed.
Double breasted coats and vests, however, are different, on these; the buttons may be moved a trifle toward the front edge, thereby giving more breathing room over the chest, which is very much needed, and adds to the appearance of the garment.
Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are most desirable from every point of view. The man of taste and refinement always selects dark, quiet colors for his overcoats.
Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are strong, plain, light and small. Large canes are in very bad taste for young men.
A white necktie should never be worn except with a full dress suit, save by clergymen, and a few elderly men who never wear any other color.
A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. A low hat should not be worn with a double breasted frock or Prince Albert.
Straw hats should not be worn, only with light summer suits. Dark suits are preferred on Sundays, especially in town, and light suits should never be worn to church anywhere.
Double breasted frock coats should be made of black or grey materials.
At small informal gatherings, most men consider themselves sufficiently dressed when they wear black frock coats and dark trousers. It is not necessary for men to wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in full dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, for example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man who wears a black frock coat, dark trousers, and light kidgloves, is better dressed; because more appropriately, than he, who wears a full dress suit.
'Tis true, the practice of wearing such a suit occasions additional expense, as otherwise a business suit, or walking suit, and a dress suit may be made to serve all occasions.
When at home, every man goes in for comfort, however it will be well to remember that it is not polite to appear at the table, whether they are strangers or not, or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on a familiar footing, in his shirt sleeves.
A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in evening dress. Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen and white cravat (a black cravat is permissible, but not in full dress.)
For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a white cravat. Watch fob is very fashionable.
On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentlemen are permitted to wear frock coats, and to regard the day as an "off" one, unless invited to a grand dinner, then you must wear the dress suit.
Men are always ungloved, except when riding or driving.
Colored shirts and flannel shirts are worn in the morning, often until the dinner hour in the summer, and it is proper to go to an informal breakfast in the informal dress of the tennis ground.
For a formal luncheon, a man must dress himself in black frock coat, a colored necktie, and grey or drab stripe trousers, and white shirt.
For lawn tennis,—flannel shirts, rough coats, knickerbockers, long grey, woolen stockings, and string shoes.
Simplicity, neatness, and fitness mark the gentleman.
Good clothes, manners, breeding, and education, admit one to the better circles of society. It is not sufficient to do as others do, but we must dress as they do when we go out in the world.
He is best dressed, whose dress attracts least attention, and in order to attract attention, one's dress must be seasonable, appropriate, and conform to the prevailing fashion, without going to extreme, and to appear comfortable.
Evening Dress:—For all formal events after six o'clock, balls, formal dinners, opera and theater, receptions and weddings.