Indigo Dye-vat
Figure 23 also shows an excellent machine for indigo dyeing on cloth. In this the vat has a frame carrying guide rollers, round which the cloth passes, so that it travels several times through the vat liquor in its passage from one end of the vat to the other, the amount of liquor in the vat being so arranged that the cloth is entirely immersed the whole time. After going through the liquor the cloth passes between a pair of squeezing rollers, in order to have any surplus liquor taken out, then it traverses the space between sets of guide rollers arranged over the vat, during which time the indigo becomesoxidised and the blue develops, while finally it is plaited down on a table. The illustration clearly shows the working of the machine.
Dyeing Wool with Indigo Extract.--Sulphonated indigo, prepared by dissolving indigo in sulphuric acid, is sold under the name of "indigo extract," or "indigo carmine," in two forms--paste (containing, perhaps, 25 to 30 per cent. actual colour) and powder. Both forms are freely soluble in water, although some makes are more so than others. This quality of solubility is dependent upon the proportion of sulphuric acid which may have been used in the preparation of the extract. When this is small, what is termed indigo monosulphonic acid only is formed, which is but slightly soluble in water, and gives red shades. If a larger proportion of acid be used, then the indigo disulphonic acid is formed, which is fairly easily soluble in water, and gives bluer shades than the former.
As all forms of indigo extract are regular articles of commerce, details for their preparation will not be given here. It will suffice to say that indigo is heated with strong sulphuric acid until test samples show that the indigo has been completely dissolved, and it is then diluted with water and filtered. Sometimes it is sold in this condition under the term "chemic," but if this be used in dyeing wool it gives rather unsatisfactory results. When "sour extract" is required, the liquor filtered out is next treated with salt until all the colour has been precipitated out, when it is filtered off, drained, pressed and sold. Should "neutral" or "sweet" extract be required, then the acid liquor is neutralised with soda, and the product is salted out as before, drained and pressed to a suitable consistence. It is then sold as "indigo extract," or dried, at 150° F., to a powder, which is known as "indigo carmine".
All forms of indigo extract are dyed on wool from baths ofGlauber's salt and sulphuric acid, and therefore they can be classed with the acid-dyeing coal-tar colours. Indigo extract is notable for its level dyeing and penetrative properties, but it is not fast to light or milling.
Messrs. Read Holliday & Sons have a powder form of indigo extract which will be found very useful and to give better shades than the usual run of paste extract, while it only takes about one-fifth the quantity to give a similar shade. Working at the boil should be avoided with indigo extract, as tending to make the shades greenish in tone; from 170° to 180° F. will usually be found hot enough to dye good shades.
Indigo extract is not much used by itself in dyeing blues on wool, but it is extensively employed along with other dye-stuffs to produce an immense variety of shades--drabs, greens, fawns, greys, lilacs, etc., of which some examples will be given later on.
Indigo Blue.--Prepare a bath with 10 lb. indigo extract, 5 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work just under the boil to shade.
Sky Blue.--The dye-bath contains 1 lb. indigo extract, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at about 160° F. to shade.
Dyeing Wool Blue with Logwood.--This method of dyeing blue on wool has lost much of its importance since the introduction of the artificial dyes, but it is still employed when a blue fast to milling is wanted. Logwood gives dark navy blue shades. The process is as follows: The wool is first mordanted by boiling for one and a half hours in a bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. of tartar. The operation must be so carried out that the non-oxidising green chrome mordant is developed on the fibre, and therefore the boiling must be thorough. In place of tartar, argols and oxalic acid are frequently used, while lactic acid or lignorosine mightbe employed. The dyeing is done in a bath of 20 to 25 lb. logwood, or 5 to 8 lb. logwood extract; the bath is started cold, heated slowly to the boil, and kept at that heat for one to one and a half hours. Between the mordanting and dyeing the wool should be well rinsed.
Dyeing Blue with Coal-tar Dyes.
The blue dyes derived from coal tar are very numerous, direct, basic, acid and mordant blues being known. The direct and basic dyes are very little used, but the acid and mordant dyes are extensively employed, as is indicated in the following recipes.
Dyeing with Direct Dyes.Pale Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter the goods, and work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Black Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia; work at the boil for one hour. Sulphon cyanine works well with other dye-stuffs, and gives shades which are fast to milling.
Dyeing with Acid Dyes.Bright Blue.--Prepare a bath with 2 lb. borax and 1 lb. Alkali Blue B. Enter the wool at about 170° F., then heat to the boil, and work for half an hour; then lift, rinse lightly, and pass into a weak sour bath, with sulphuric acid to raise to the colour.
Soda may be used in place of borax, but the latter salt maintains the softness of the wool fibre better.
By using various brands of Alkali Blue (3 R to 7 B), various shades of blue from a reddish with the 3 R to a pure blue with the 6 B and 7 B brands may be dyed. The Alkali Blues are fairly fast to light.
Dark Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Serge Blue, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boilfor one hour. This is a very common way of dyeing blues on serges, cashmeres and worsted goods. In place of serge blue, what are known as Blackley blues, or Dewsbury blues, may be employed. These have a similar composition, but vary a little in the tint of blue they give.
Navy Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Induline A, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
The Indulines are very useful colouring matters for dyeing navy or dark blues on wool. They have the defect of being liable to give uneven shades. This may be remedied by omitting the acid when first making up the bath, entering the wool, working for half an hour to thoroughly impregnate the material with the dye-liquor, then adding the acid, and continuing the working for another half-hour. Or the wool may be treated to a weak chlorine bath before it is dyed, by first passing it through a weak hydrochloric acid bath and then through a bath of bleaching powder. By using acetic acid in place of sulphuric acid more even shades are obtained.
Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Acid Blue 1 V, 9 oz. Acid Violet 1 V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Blue Black.--For this the dye-bath is made with 8 lb. Acid Blue 1 V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Deep Navy Blue.--A very good shade is dyed with 5 lb. Acid Blue 1 V, 3 lb. Acid violet 1 V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Deep Navy.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Fast acid Magenta B, 3 lb. Wool Blue B X, 4-3/4 oz. Orange I I, 5 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour.
The Patent Blues work exceedingly well on wool, giving good bright shades of a fair degree of fastness. The following recipeswill give some idea of the nature of the shades which may be obtained from them, while later on their use in combination with other dyes for the production of compound shades will be shown.
Bright Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Patent Blue N, or Patent Blue superior, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Bright Greenish Blue.--Use 2 lb. Patent Blue V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Royal Blue.--Use 2 lb. Patent Blue B, or 2 lb. Patent Blue J (No. 3), 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Patent Blue J (No. 3) gives slightly more violet shades than Patent Blue N, but there is not much difference between them.
Saxony Blue.--Use 2 lb. Patent Blue J (No. 00), 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Patent Blue J (No. 00) dyes shades very closely resembling those dyed with indigo extract, and where the latter is used in the dyeing of compound shades the former might be substituted.
Brilliant Royal Blue.--Prepare a bath with 1-1/2 lb. New Victoria Blue B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at about 100° F., then raise to the boil and work for one hour. This gives a very brilliant shade of blue of a violet tone.
Sky Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 oz. New Victoria Blue B and 2 lb. Glauber's salt, working in the manner described in the last recipe.
Dark Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 oz. Acid Violet 5 B, and 1-1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.
Deep Blue.--Make a dye-bath with 4 lb. Chromotrop 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. acetic acid. Work for one hour at the boil; then lift, add 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. acetic acid, re-enter the goods and work for one hour longer; lift, wash and dry.
Theblues produced from the Chromotrops according to the last recipe are full, solid-looking shades, and have a great degree of fastness to milling and light. Some other examples showing the production of blue shades from the Chromotrops will be given later on.
Violet Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Victoria Violet 8 B S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.
Deep Blue.--A fine deep blue is dyed on wool from a bath containing 6 lb. Victoria Violet 8 B S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade.
Deep Sky Blue.--A fine shade is dyed in a bath containing 4 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Electric Blue.--Make the dye-bath with 4 oz. Cyanole extra, 1 oz. Acid Green extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Bright Blue.--A very fine shade of blue can be dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Dark Navy Blue.--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Cyanole extra, 9 oz. Archil Substitute N, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Dark Navy.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Black Blue O, 1-3/4 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 4 oz. Patent Blue V, 25 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. bisulphate of soda, adding 1 lb. sulphuric acid when the dyeing is about half done.
The navy blues given in the last few recipes possess the merit of considerable resistance to light, air and milling.
Pale Blue.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 4 oz. Cyanine B, 7-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 1/2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. acetic acid, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Peacock Blue.--A fine shade is dyed with 14 oz. Cyanine B, 1-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Blue R, 2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. acetic acid, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
DarkInvisible Blue.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Victoria Black Blue, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Blue.--A very fine shade of blue, not, however, fast to light, is dyed from a bath containing 1/2 lb. Victoria Blue B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Bright Electric Blue.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3/4 lb. Glacier Blue, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. This gives a very bright green shade of blue.
Dark Peacock Blue.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Naphthol Blue Black, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Peri Wool Blues B & G dye wool in very fast dark blue shades from baths of Glauber's salt and acetic acid. They are dye-stuffs which form with copper blue colour lakes of some fastness. The copper is amalgamated with the dye-stuffs as put on the market.
Pale Navy Blue.--Mordant, 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye, 2-1/2 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux B.
Navy Blue.--Mordant, 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye, 7 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux G.
Bright Violet Blue.--Mordant, 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye, 3/4 lb. Celestine Blue B.
Navy Blue.--A reddish shade of navy blue is dyed by mordanting with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid, and dyeing with 3 lb. Celestine Blue B and 3/4 lb. Diamond Black.
The Alizarine Cyanines are excellent dye-stuffs for giving dark blue and navy blue shades on wool. They dye fairly easily, and uniform shades are readily obtained, while they possess some considerable penetrative power, so that they are well adapted for dyeing heavy piece goods. The following recipes show their use and indicate the character of the shadesthe various brands yield. It may be added that the shades are fast to light and milling.
Red Navy Blue.--Mordant, 4 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. tartar, and 1-1/2 oz. sulphuric acid. Dye, 6 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R R R double. By using a mordant of 4 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid the shade is made brighter and not so red in tone.
Dark Blue.--A red shade of blue almost approaching a navy is obtained by mordanting with bichromate of potash, as in the last recipe, and dyeing with 12 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R R, or with 13 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R. The shade with the latter dye-stuff is scarcely so red as with the former.
Dark Blue.--Mordant with 4 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid and dye with 13 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R.
Dark Blue.--A somewhat brighter and less red shade than is obtained by working as in the last recipe is given by mordanting with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. tartar, and 2-1/2 oz. sulphuric acid, and then dyeing with 17 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G extra.
Dark Blue.--Mordant with 3-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. tartar, and 3 oz. sulphuric acid. Dye with 18 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G G.
Peacock Blue.--Mordant with 4 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 18 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G G.
The addition of from 2 lb. to 5 lb. acetate of ammonia in working with the Alizarine Cyanines is a considerable advantage, by causing the dye-stuff to penetrate the fibre better and to give more uniform shades.
Medium Blue.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 5 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Black Blue.--Mordant as in the last. Dye with 20 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Navy.--Mordant as in the last recipe and dye with 5lb. Alizarine Cyanine 3 R double, 5 lb. Alizarine Blue G W, 2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Medium Blue.--Mordant as in the last. Dye with 5 lb. Alizarine Blue G W, 2-1/2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Lavender Blue.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/4 lb. tartar. Dye with 2 lb. Alizarine Blue A.
Navy.--Mordant as in the last recipe, and dye with 20 lb. Alizarine Blue A.
Deep Sky Blue.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. oxalic acid, then dye with 2-1/2 lb. Chrome Blue.
Bright Blue.--A very fine bright shade is obtained by mordanting as in the last, and then dyeing with 10 lb. Chrome Blue.
Lilac Blue.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W. Alizarine Blue R gives somewhat bluer shades than the D N W brand.
Slate Blue.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 4 oz. Alizarine Brown, and 1-2/3 oz. Alizarine Yellow.
Peacock Blue.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 6 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 3 lb. Alizarine Yellow, and 1-1/2 lb. Patent Blue A, adding a little acetic acid to the dye-bath.
Paris Blue.--Mordant as in the last recipe. Dye with 3 lb. Galleine, 1 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 1 lb. Patent Blue A, adding a little acetic acid.
Grey Blue.--Mordant as above and dye with 4-1/2 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 1 lb. Alizarine Brown.
Blue.--Mordant with 10 lb. alum, 3 lb. tartar, and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 15 lb. Anthracene Blue W G, 3 lb. acetate of lime, and 1 lb. tannic acid.
Red Navy.--Mordant as in the last recipe and dye with 15lb. Anthracene Blue B W, 3 lb. acetate of lime, and 3/4 lb. tannic acid.
Dark Blue.--Mordant with 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar. Then dye with 20 lb. Anthracene Blue W B. Anthracene Blue W G gives slightly greener shades than the W B brand, while the W R blue gives redder shades.
Grounding wool with various tints of indigo is a favourite method of producing many useful shades on wool. In general it is a good plan, as the bottom so given is a fast and permanent one, and is not in any way affected (so far as the stability of the colour is concerned) by the subsequent dyeing operations, care of course being taken that these are the usual acid or mordanting baths. The only drawback against bottoming with indigo is the increased cost of dyeing necessitated by the extra labour, and materials required to dye the bottom. As to the methods and materials required, they are just those usually employed in indigo dyeing, and these have been described. The hydrosulphite vat, or Messrs. Holliday's patent indigo, is, perhaps, the most convenient method to adopt.
Dark Slate.--Give a medium indigo bottom, then mordant with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 1 lb. oxalic acid, and dye with 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Brown W, 1/2 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux G, and 1 oz. Diamond Flavine.
Dark Navy.--Give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, then mordant with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 1-1/2 lb. tartar, finally dyeing with 6-1/2 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G, and 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux G.
Dark Blue.--Give a medium indigo bottom, then mordant with 6 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid, finally dyeing with 14 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black.
Blue Black.--Give a deep indigo bottom in the vat, then mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar, finallydyeing with 6 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black and 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Cyanine 3 R double.
Violet Shades on Wool.
Violet shades can only be obtained from the coal-tar colours, and of these there are not many. The recipes which are given below will serve to show what dye-stuffs are available, and will give some idea of the tints they dye.
With Direct Dyes.Pale Violet.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, 1/4 lb. Geranine B, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil for one hour.
With Basic Dyes.Violet.--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Methyl Violet 3 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. A fine pure shade of violet is obtained. Methyl Violet is made in many brands, distinguished as B, B B, 2 B, 4 B, etc. By using either one or the other of these, a variety of tints of violet, from a red shade with Methyl Violet R through violet (B) to a violet blue with Methyl Violet 7 B, can be dyed.
Puce.--A very bright shade of puce is dyed by using Methyl Violet R, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
With Acid Dyes.Violet.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Acid Violet 4 B S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a pure violet shade. If Acid Violet 6 B S be used a bluer shade is obtained.
Reddish Puce.--A very bright red tint of puce is obtained by using 2 lb. Acid Violet 4 R S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bluish Violet.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Acid Violet 5 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Lavender.--Use 4 oz. Acid Violet 5 B, 1 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, 1/16 oz. Fast Green bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Violet.--A fine deep shade is obtained by using 2-3/4 lb. Chromotrop6 R, 2-1/2 lb. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Mauve.--Use 2 lb. Acid Mauve B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Violet.--Use 2 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Violet.--Use 2 lb. Acid Violet 6 B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Violet.--Use 2 lb. Acid Violet N, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
With Mordant Dyes.Violet.--Mordant the wool with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar, and dye with 10 lb. Chrome Violet.
Dark Violet.--Mordant as in the last recipe. Then dye with 3 lb. Chrome Bordeaux 6 B double and 2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine blue G.
Brown Shades on Wool.
Brown is a very important colour, of which there is an infinite variety of shades and it can be dyed in a great variety of ways and from a variety of dye-stuffs, as will be seen on looking through the recipes which follow, although these do not by any means exhaust the methods by which browns may be dyed on woollen goods, but they may be taken as representative and will serve to show by what combinations of dyes various tints of browns may be obtained.
With Direct Dyes.Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Nyanza Black B, 2 lb. Congo Brown R, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
With Acid Dyes.Yellow Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Carmine, 1 lb. Fast Yellow, 1 lb. Indigo Carmine D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. A good shade is thus obtained.
OliveBrown.--Use 3/4 lb. Azo Acid Violet 4 R, 2 lb. Fast Yellow, 3 oz. Fast Green bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Dark Chestnut.--Dye in a bath containing 6-1/2 oz. Patent Blue V, 3-1/4 oz. Acid Violet V, 1 lb. Azo Yellow, 2 lb. Orange No. 2, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Mouse.--Make the dye-bath with 4 oz. Patent Blue V, 1-2/3 oz. Acid Violet N, 13 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Seal.--Dye in a bath containing 1 lb. Orange G G, 1/2 lb. Patent Blue J 3, 1/2 lb. Azo Yellow, 3-1/4 oz. Acid Violet N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1-3/4 lb. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/4 lb. Victoria Yellow, 4 lb. Keton Blue G, 2-1/2 oz. Acid Violet 5 B E, 25 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Walnut.--A fine shade can be dyed with 1-3/4 lb. Azo Acid Magenta G, 14-1/2 oz. Patent Blue V, 3/4 lb. Victoria Yellow, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Olive Brown.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, and 1/2 lb. Fast Green extra bluish.
Dark Olive Brown.--A very fine shade can be dyed with 1 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 1-1/2 lb. Orange 11, 1/2 lb. Fast Green bluish, 7 oz. Fast Yellow, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Walnut.--Use 1 lb. Cyanole, 1 lb. Orange extra, 1/2 lb. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Dark Seal.--Use 1 lb. Cyanole, 1 lb. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Golden Brown.--A fine shade is dyed with 1-1/4 lb. Victoria Yellow,9-1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 3-1/2 oz. Patent Blue V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
With Mordant Dyes.Golden Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Work for half an hour; then add 5 lb. bisulphate of soda and work for half an hour longer, then add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work for half an hour at the boil.
Bright Golden Brown.--Use 3/4 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, as indicated in the last recipe. The shades so obtained are very fine, and have the merit of being fast to washing and light.
Chestnut.--Give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, then dye in a bath containing 1-3/4 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 1 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, and 5 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work again for half an hour, then add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work again for another half hour; lift, wash and dry.
Dark Brown.--Use a dye-bath containing 1-1/4 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 3/4 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracite Black B, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. After half an hour's boiling, add 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, work half an hour longer, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work together another half hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Brown.--A very fine shade can be dyed in the following way: First give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, then mordant in a bath containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, and finally dye in a bath made from 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Orange R, 4 lb. Diamond Flavine, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Seal.--Give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, and Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, and finally dye in a bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Alizarine Orange R, 1 lb. Anthracene Brown R, 2 lb. Diamond Flavine, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Brown.--Afull shade is dyed by first mordanting with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar, and then dyeing with 10 lb. Anthracene Brown W, and 1 lb. Mordant Yellow.
Buff.--Mordant as in the last, and dye with 5 lb. Anthracene Brown W, and 1/4 lb. Mordant Yellow O.
Nut.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. oxalic acid, and dye with 20 lb. Diamond Brown.
Pale Old Gold Brown.--Mordant as in the last, and dye with 5 lb. Diamond Brown.
Dark Violet Brown.--Mordant as in the last recipes, and dye with 30 lb. Chrome Brown R.
Bright Chestnut.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and dye with 30 lb. Gambine R.
Pale Chestnut.--Mordant as in the last recipes, and dye with 20 lb. Gambine Y.
Olive Brown.--Mordant as in the last recipes, and dye with 10 lb. Gambine B. The browns dyed with Gambine have the merit of being fast to milling and light.
Dark Brown.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; then dye with 15 lb. Alizarine Brown.
Bright Buff.--Mordant as in the last recipe; then dye with 4-3/4 lb. Alizarine Brown, 4 lb. Alizarine Yellow, 1-3/4 oz. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Violet Brown.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Then dye with 18 lb. Alizarine Brown, 6 lb. Alizarine Orange H, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Walnut.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; then dye with 8 lb. Alizarine Brown, 2 lb. Alizarine Red 3 W S, and 2 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W.
Mode Colours on Wool.
Under the general designation of "mode colours" are included a great variety of tints or shades unusually described morespecifically as drabs, buffs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. It is impossible here to do more than give a few recipes for their production.
With Direct Dyes.Drab.--Make a dye-bath with 3 oz. Nyanza Black B, 1-1/2 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 oz. Congo orange R, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
With Acid Dyes.Bright Buff.--Dye in a bath containing 3/4 oz. each Cyanole, Orange extra, and Indian Yellow R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Slate.--Use a dye-bath containing 3 oz. Cyanole, 1/4 oz. Archil Substitute N, 1/2 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Silver Grey.--Use 1-1/4 oz. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Drab.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 3/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Grey.--Make the dye-bath with 1 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 2-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 5 lb. acetic acid.
Bright Fawn.--The dye-bath is made with 2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 8 oz. Orange G, 2-1/4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 1-1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 5 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Buff.--Use 2 oz. Cyanine B, 5 oz. Azo Yellow, 2-1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Lilac Grey.--Use 3 oz. each Fast Acid Violet 10 B, Fast Green bluish, and Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Fawn Drab.--Use 1 oz. Patent Blue V, 1 oz. Rhodamine, 1-3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
DarkGrey.--Use 1 lb. Wool Grey R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Stone.--Use 1 oz. Patent Blue J B, 1-3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Fawn Brown.--Use 4 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 2 oz. Patent Blue J O O, 3 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Drab.--Use 3 oz. Azo Carmine, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow, 1-1/4 oz. Indigo Carmine D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Lilac.--Use 1/2 lb. Azo carmine, 1/2 lb. Indigo Carmine D, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
With Mordant Dyes.Pale Drab.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Brown paste.
Violet Grey.--Mordant as in the last recipe, and dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Grey B.
Pale Fawn.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, and dye with 4-1/2 lb. Alizarine Yellow, 13 oz. Alizarine Brown, 11-1/2 oz. Alizarine Orange N, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Pale Stone.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 13 oz. Alizarine Yellow and 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Brown.
Dark Slate.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar. Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 10 oz. Alizarine Yellow.
Lavender Grey.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 13 oz. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 2 oz. Galleine.
Drab.--Mordant as in the last recipe; then dye with 4 oz. Alizarine Blue, 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Yellow and 14 oz. Alizarine Brown.
Drab.--Mordantwith 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and dye with 1 lb. Gambine R.
Dark Grey.--Give a light indigo bottom in the vat, and then dye in a bath containing 3/4 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, 3/4 oz. Anthracene Yellow C, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Work at the boil for half an hour, then add 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, work half an hour longer, then add 1 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work for another half hour at the boil; then lift, wash and dry.
There is now produced a great variety of textile fabrics of every conceivable texture by combining the two fibres, cotton and wool, in a number of ways. The variety of these fabrics has of late years considerably increased, which increase may be largely ascribed to the introduction of the direct dyeing colouring matters--the Diamine dyes, the Benzo dyes, the Congo and the Zambesi dyes; for in the dyeing of wool-cotton fabrics they have made a revolution. The dyer of union fabrics, that is fabrics composed of wool and cotton, was formerly put to great straits to obtain uniform shades on the fabrics supplied to him owing to the difference in the affinity of the fibres for the dye-stuffs then known. Now the direct dyes afford him a means of easily dyeing a piece of cotton-wool cloth in any colour of a uniform shade, while the production of two-coloured effects is much more under his control, and has led to the increased production of figured dress fabrics with the ground in one fibre (wool) and colour, and the design in another fibre (cotton) and colour. The number of direct dyes issued by the various colour manufacturers is so great that it would take a fairly considerable space to discuss them all.
To obtain good results it is needful that the dyer of union fabrics should be a man of keen observation and have a thorough knowledge of the dyes he is using, for each dye makes a rule to itself as regards its power of dyeing wool andcotton; some go better on to the cotton than on to the wool, andvice versa. Some dye wool best at the boil, others equally well below that heat; some go on the cotton at a moderate temperature, others require the dye-bath to be boiling; some will go to the cotton only and appear to ignore the wool.
The presence or absence in the dye-bath of such bodies as carbonate of soda, Glauber's salt, etc., has a material influence on the degree of the affinity of the dye-stuff for the two fibres, as will perhaps be noted hereafter. Again, while some of the dyes produce equal colours on both fibres, there are others where the tone is different. With all these peculiarities of the Diamine and other direct dyes the union dyer must make himself familiar. These dyes are used in neutral baths, that is, along with the dye-stuff. It is often convenient to use along with the direct dyes some azo or acid dyes which have the property of dyeing the wool from neutral baths; many examples of such will be found in the practical recipes given below. The dyes now under consideration may be conveniently classed into five groups.
(1)Those dyes which dye the cotton and wool from the same bath to the same shade, or nearly so.--Among such are Thioflavine S, Diamine Fast Yellow B, Diamine Orange B, Diamine Rose B D, Diamine Reds 4 B, 5 B, 6 B and 10 B, Diamine Fast Red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Brown N, Diamine Brown 3 G, B and G W, Diamine Blue R W, B X, Diamine Blue G, Diamine Greens G and B, Diamine Black H W, Diamine Dark Blue B, Union Black B and S, Oxydiamine Blacks B, M, D and A, Diamine Catechine G, Union Blue B B, Oxyphenine, Chloramine Yellow, Thioflavine S, Alkali Yellow R, Chromine G, Titan Scarlet S, Mimosa, Primuline, Auroline, Congo Corinth B, Thiazol Yellow, Columbia Yellow, Oxydiamine Yellow G G, Oxydiamine Oranges Gand R, Diamine Orange O, Oxydiamine Red S.
(2)Dyes which dye the cotton a deeper shade than the wool.--The following belong to this group. Diamine Fast Yellow A, Diamine Orange G and D, Diamine Catechine G, Diamine Catechine B, Diamine sky Blue, Diamine Blues 2 B, Diamine Blue 3 B, Diamine Blue B G, Diamine Brilliant Blue G, Diamine New Blue R, Diamine Steel Blue L, Diamine Black R O, Diamine Black B O, Diamine Black B H, and Oxydiamine Black S O O O, Diamine Nitrazol Brown G, Diamine Catechine B, Diamine Sky Blue F F, Diamine Dark Blue B, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Violet N, Oxydiamine Violet B, Columbia Black B and F B, Zambesi Black B, Congo Brown G, Direct Yellow G, Direct Orange R, Clayton Yellow, Cotton Yellow, Orange T A, Benzopurpurine B, Brilliant Congo R, Chicago Blues B, 4 B and 6 B.
(3)Dyes which dye wool a deeper shade than the cotton.--The dyes in this group are not numerous. They are Diamine Gold, Diamine Scarlet B, Diamine Scarlet 3 B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine Blue R W, and Diamine Green G, Diamine Red N O and B, Chicago Blue G and R R W, Brilliant Purpurine R, Diamine Scarlet B, Deltapurpurine 5 B, Chrysamine, Titan Blue, Titan Pink, Congo Oranges G and R, Erie Blue 2 G, Congo R, Brilliant Congo R, Erika B N, Benzopurpurine 4 B and 10 B, Chrysophenine, Titan Yellow, Titan Brown Y, R and O, Congo Brown G, Sulphon Azurine B, Zambesi Black D.
(4)Dyes which produce different shades on the two fibres.--Diamine Brown G and Diamine Blue 3 R, Diamine Brown V, Diamine Brown S, Diamine Nitrazol Brown B, Diamine Blue B X and 3 R, Diamine Blue Black E, Benzo Blue Black G, Benzopurpurine 10 B, Benzo Azurine R G and 3 G, Columbia Red S B, Brilliant Azurine 5 G, Titan MarineBlue, Congo Corinths G and B, Azo Blue, Hessian Violet, Titan Blue, Azo Mauve, Congo Brown, Diamine Bronze G, Zambesi Browns G and 2 G, Zambesi Black F.
(5)Azo acid dyes which dye wool from neutral baths, and are therefore suitable for shading up the wool to the cotton in union fabric dyeing.--Among the dyes thus available may be enumerated Naphthol Blue G and E, Naphthol Blue Black, Formyl Violet 10 B, Lanacyl Blue B B, Lanacyl Blue R, Alkaline Blue, Formyl Violet S 4 B and 6 B, Rocceleine, Azo Red A, Croceine A Z, Brilliant Scarlet, Orange extra, Orange E N Z, Indian Yellow G, Indian Yellow R, Tropæoline O O, Naphthylamine Black 4 B, and Naphthol Blue Black, Brilliant Scarlet G, Lanacyl Violet B, Brilliant Milling Green B, Thiocarmine R, Formyl Blue B, Naphthylamine Blacks D, 4 B and 6 B, Azo Acid Yellow, Curcumine Extra, Mandarine G, Ponceau 3 R B, Acid Violet 6 B, Guinea Violet 4 B, Guinea Green B, Wool Black 6 B.
Regarding the best methods of dyeing, that in neutral baths yields the most satisfactory results in practical working. It is done in a boiling hot or in a slightly boiling bath with the addition of 6-1/4 oz. crystallised Glauber's salt per gallon water for the first bath, and when the baths are kept standing 20 per cent. crystallised Glauber's salt reckoned upon the weight of the goods for each succeeding lot.
In dyeing unions, the dye-baths must be as concentrated as possible and must not contain more than from 25 to 30 as much water as the goods weigh. In this respect it serve as a guide that concentrated baths are best used dyeing dark shades while light shades can be dyed in more dilute baths. The most important factor for producing uniform dyeings is the appropriate regulation of the temperature of the dye-bath. Concerning this the dyer must bear in mind that the direct colours possess a greater affinity for cotton if dyed below the boiling-point, and only go on thewool when the bath is boiling, especially so the longer and more intensely the goods are boiled.
The following method of dyeing is perhaps the best one. Charge the dye-bath with the requisite dye-stuff and Glauber's salt, boil up, shut off the steam, enter the goods and let run for half an hour, without steam, then sample. If the shade of both cotton and wool is too light, add some more of the dye-stuffs used for both fibres, boil up once more, and boil for a quarter to half an hour. If the wool only is too light, or its shade different from that of the cotton, add some more of the dye-stuff used for shading the wool and bring them again to the boil. If, however, the cotton turns out too light or does not correspond in shade to the wool, add some more of the dye-stuffs used for dyeing the cotton, without, however, raising the temperature. Prolonged boiling is necessary only very rarely, and generally only if the goods to be dyed are difficult to penetrate or contain qualities of wool which only with difficulty take up the dye-stuff. In such cases, in making up the bath, dye-stuffs are to be selected some of which go only on the wool and others which go only on the cotton (those belonging to the second group).
The goods can then be boiled for some time, and perfect penetration and level shades will result. If the wool takes up the dye-stuff easily (as is frequently the case with goods manufactured from shoddy) and are therefore dyed too dark a shade, then dye-stuffs have to be used which principally dye the cotton, and a too high temperature is to be avoided. In such cases it is advisable to diminish the affinity of the wool by the addition of one-fifth of the original quantity of Glauber's salt (about 3/8 oz. per gallon of water), and from three-quarters to four-fifths of the dye-stuff used for the first lot. Care has to be taken that not much of the dye-liquor is lost when taking out the dyed goods, otherwise the quantities of Glauber's salt and dye-stuff will have to be increased proportionately. Woodenvats such as are generally used for piece dyeing have proved the most suitable, they are heated with direct or still better with indirect steam. The method which has proved most advantageous is to let the steam run into a space separated from the vat by a perforated wall into which space the required dye-stuffs and salt are placed.
The mode of working is influenced by the character of the goods, and the following notes will be found useful by the union dyer.
Very little difficulty will be met with in dyeing such light fabrics as Italians, cashmeres, serges and similar thin textiles lightly woven from cotton warp and woollen weft. When deep shades (blacks, dark blues, browns and greens) are being dyed it is not advisable to make up the dye-bath with the whole of the dyes at once. It is much better to add these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals during the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the wool for the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the cotton that it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too much of the colour and then would come up too deep in shade. Never give a strong boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the boil which results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton.
On Union Flannels.--In this class of goods it is important that the soft open feel of the goods be retained as much as possible, and for this purpose no class of dyes offers so many advantages as the direct colours. Only one bath being required, there is not the same amount of manipulation needed in the dyeing operation, hence there is less risk that the soft feel and woolly structure will be affected. As no mordants are needed there is nothing to impart a harsh feel to the fabrics.
On Dress Goods, Suitings and Coatings.--A large quantity of fabrics for gentlemen's suits, coats and cloths in general arenow made from wool and cotton. Formerly the dyeing of these offered many difficulties before the application of the direct dyes was properly understood. Now, however the ease with which such dyes may be applied has given considerable impetus to this class of goods, and the trade has grown by leaps and bounds during recent years, and has been one cause of the great cheapening of clothes which has occurred in the same period. The dyeing of the goods with the direct colours offers very little difficulty, and only requires that a little attention be paid, particularly to goods in which the cotton either appears on the surface forming a design, or is spun or twisted together with the wool.
A good deal of shoddy is used in making the cheaper class of these goods, and it is quite natural that such "artificial wool" behaves differently from pure wool, not only with regard to its shade resulting from mixing and working together differently dyed waste wools, but also on account of its possessing a greater affinity for all kinds of dye-stuff than raw wool; this in consequence of the carbonisation and washing processes it has undergone, and also of the mordants which the material may retain from previous processes. Therefore (and especially in dyeing light shades on goods manufactured of shoddy) only a small quantity of soda or borax is to be added to the dye-bath and severe boiling is to be avoided. Wherever it is possible goods which are to be dyed in light shades should be made from the palest materials, and the dark qualities only used for goods which are to be dyed in dark shades.
This rule can, of course, not always be adhered to. Quite often a light and bright shade is to be dyed on comparatively dark material. This cannot be achieved by simply dyeing it, the goods must be stripped or bleached before dyeing. For this purpose either energetically reacting, oxidising reducing agents are applied. Of the former, bichromate of potassiumis principally used. Boil the goods for half to three-quarters of an hour with 3 to 5 per cent. bichromate of potassium, 2 to 4 per cent. oxalic acid, and 3 to 5 per cent. sulphuric acid, wash in a fresh warm bath charged with soda in order to entirely neutralise the acid which has remained in the goods, or else the wool would be dyed too deep a shade. In some cases hydrosulphite has proved a useful reducing agent; it can be easily prepared from ordinary bisulphite of soda in the following manner. Add 10 oz. ammonia (0·9 specific gravity) to a gallon of bisulphite of soda, 32° Tw.; then add slowly under a brisk stirring 10 oz. zinc-dust, and let the entire mixture settle well, using only the clear solution. Treat the goods from fifteen to twenty minutes in a bath of 140° F., to which first add at the boil 3/4 oz. acetic acid, 10° Tw., per gallon water, and then 4 to 6 gallons clear hydrosulphite solution per 100 gallons liquor. Then rinse very well and dye in the usual manner; avoiding, however, too high a temperature. As on this class of goods dark shades are mostly dyed, the goods need only very rarely be stripped.
Bright Yellow.--Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S in a bath which contains 4 lb. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons of dye-liquor.
Good Yellow.--A very fine deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine Gold, and 24 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow A in the same way as the last. Here advantage is taken of the fact that while the Diamine Gold dyes the wool better than the cotton the Diamine Yellow dyes the cotton the deepest shade, and between the two a uniform shade of yellow is got.
Pale Gold Yellow.--Use a dye-liquor containing 4 lb. Glauber's salt in every 10 gallons, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow A, 2 oz. Indian Yellow G, and 3-1/2 oz. Indian Yellow R. In this recipe we use in the two last dyes purely wool yellows, which dye the wool the same tint as the Fast Yellow A dyes the cotton.
BrightYellow.--Use in the same way as the last 2-1/2 lb Diamine Fast Yellow B and 3 oz. Indian Yellow G.
Gold Orange.--Use as above 2 lb. Diamine orange G, 3-1/2 oz. Indian Yellow R, and 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z.
Deep Orange.--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine Orange D C, 6-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, and 3-1/4 oz. Indian Yellow R.
Black.--Use 4-1/2 lb. Union Black S, 2 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow A, 5 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, 3-1/4 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B, and 4 lb. Glauber's salt in 10 gallons dye-liquor.
The goods are treated at the boil in this bath for one hour, Italian cloths have frequently if not always to pass through a finishing process to give them lustre. This treatment, especially with blues and blacks, has a tendency to affect the shades, reddening them. With some dye the colour comes back on the goods becoming cold again, but with others this is not the case. If desired the goods may be subjected after dyeing to a treatment with alum or, better, bichromate of potash. The goods after being dyed are rinsed and then passed into a bath at a temperature of 140° F., containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 to 2 oz. sulphuric acid. After being chromed in this for about half an hour they are well washed. This chroming thoroughly fixes the colour on the cotton and it will not change while being finished, either by crabbing, steaming or hot pressing.
Gold Brown.--Use 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Cutch, 6-1/2 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 1 oz. each Union Black, Naphthol Blue Black and Azo Red A.
Walnut Brown.--A fine shade is got with 1-1/4 lb. Union Black S, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine Brown M, 3-1/4 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 13 oz. Indian Yellow G, and 1 oz. Naphthol Blue Black. After dyeing the goods should be chromed with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 oz. sulphuric acid.
Dark Blue.--A good full shade is got with 2-1/4 lb. Union Black S, 9-1/2 oz. Diamine Brilliant Blue G, 6-1/2 oz. Alkaline VioletC A, and 1/4 lb. Alkaline Blue F. Treatment in a bath of 1/2 lb. alum and 1/2 oz. soda at 130° F. will fix the colour against finishing.
Silver Grey.--A fine grey can be got from 1-3/4 oz. Diamine Black B H, 1/2 oz. Diamine Orange B, 1/2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1/2 oz. Formyl Violet.
Navy Blue.--Use 1-1/4 lb. Union Black S, 3 lb. Diamine Black B H, 1/2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, 1/2 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, and 2-1/2 oz. Alkaline Blue B.
Red Plum.--Use a dye-bath containing 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine Violet B and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B.
Dark Green.--A fine shade can be dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. Diamine Green B and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Black H W.
Dark Slate.--Use 4 lb. Diamine Black H W, 2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 3 oz. Azo Red A.
Sage.--Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Diamine Bronze G and 1-1/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Dark Brown.--A fine dark shade is got from 2-1/2 lb. Diamine Brown V, and 2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Peacock Green.--Use 3-3/4 lb. Diamine Steel Blue L, 13 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine R, and 2-1/4 oz. Indian Yellow G in a bath of 4 lb. Glauber's salt per gallon of dye-liquor.
Dark Sea Green.--Use 9 oz. Diamine Steel Blue L, 3-3/4 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 1/2 oz. Diamine Orange G, 1-1/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 3/4 oz. Indian Yellow G.
Dark Brown.--Use 1 lb. Diamine Orange B, 1 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 13-3/4 oz. Union Black S, 1 lb. Diamine Brown M, and 1/2 lb. Indian Yellow G. Fix in an alum bath after dyeing.
Dark Stone.--Use 1/2 lb. Diamine Orange B, 3-3/4 oz. Union Black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 oz. Azo Red A, and 3/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Black.--A very fine black can be got from 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine BlackR M, 2 lb. Union Black S, 9-1/2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black and 4 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B, chroming after dyeing as described above.
Dark Grey.--A fine bluish, shade of grey is got from 7 oz. Diamine Black B H, 2-1/4 oz. Diamine Orange G, 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1 oz. Orange E N Z.
Dark Blue.--A fine shade is got by using 2 lb. Diamine Black B H, 1/2 lb. Diamine Black H W and 3-1/2 oz. Alkaline Blue 6 B.
Drab.--Use 3-1/2 oz. Diamine Orange B, 3/4 oz. Union Black, 1/8 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 3/4 oz. Azo Red A, and 1/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Plum.--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine Violet N, 9-1/2 oz. Union Black, and 1 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B.
Bright Yellow.--Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Thioflavine S, 2 lb. Naphthol Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb, acetic acid.
Pink.--Use 1/6 oz. Diamine Rose B D, 1/4 oz. Diamine Scarlet B, 1/2 oz. Rhodamine B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Scarlet.--A fine shade is got from 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Scarlet B, 1/2 oz. Diamine Red 5 B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Orange.--Use a dye-bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Diamine Orange G, 14-1/2 oz. Tropæoline O O, and 2-3/4 oz. Orange extra.
Sky Blue.--Use 1-1/2 oz. Diamine Sky Blue and 1-1/4 oz. Alkaline Blue B.
Bright Blue.--A fine shade similar to that formerly known as Royal Blue is got by using 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Brilliant Blue G, and 9-1/4 oz. Alkaline Blue 6 B.
Maroon.--Use 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2 lb. Diamine Violet N, and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B.
Green.--A fine green similar in shade to that used for billiard-table cloth is got from 2 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 2 lb. Diamine Steel Blue L, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine R and 7-1/4 oz. Indian Yellow G.
GoldBrown.--A fine brown is got from 3 lb. Diamine Orange B, 1/2 lb. Union Black, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine Brown, 3/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1/2 lb. Indian Yellow G.
Navy Blue.--Use 3-1/4 lb. Diamine Black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Brilliant Blue G, and 1/2 lb. Alkaline Blue.
Fawn Drab.--A fine shade is got by dyeing in a bath containing 6-3/4 oz. Diamine Orange B, 1-3/4 lb. Union Black, 1/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, and 1 oz. Azo Red A.
In all these colours the dye-baths contain Glauber's salt at the rate of 4 lb. per 10 gallons.
Dark Brown.--2-1/2 lb. Diamine Orange B, 13 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 1-3/4 lb. Union Black, and 3-1/2 oz. Naphthol Black.
Drab.--1-3/4 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow R, 3-1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2-1/2 oz. Union Black, 1/2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1-1/4 oz. Indian Yellow G.
Dark Blue.--Use in the dye-bath 4-1/4 lb. Diamine Dark Blue B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine Brilliant Blue G, 3/4 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, and 5 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Blue Black.--Use 3-1/4 lb. Union Black S, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine Black B M, 6-1/2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.
Dark Walnut.--2-3/4 lb. Diamine Brown M, 1-1/2 lb. Union Black S, and 11-1/4 oz. Indian Yellow G.
Peacock Green.--Use in the dye-bath 3-1/2 lb. Diamine Black H W, 5-1/6 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 1-1/2 lb. Thiocarmine R, and 1-1/6 oz. Indian Yellow G.
Slate Blue.--Use in the dye-bath 6-1/2 oz. Diamine Catechine B, 4-3/4 oz. Diamine Orange B, 2-1/2 oz. Union Black, 2-3/4 oz. Orange E N Z, and 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Dark Sage.--A good shade is dyed with 1 lb. Diamine Orange B, 6-1/2 oz. Union Black, 1-3/4 oz. Diamine Brown M, 3-1/4 oz. Azo Red A, and 2-1/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
NavyBlue.--Use 2 lb. Diamine Dark Blue B, 1-1/4 lb. Lanacyl Violet B, and 7 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Bronze Green.--A good shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine Orange B, 5 oz. Diamine Brown N, 3/4 lb. Union Black S, 1 lb. Indian Yellow G, and 2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Black.--Use 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine Black B M and 1-1/2 lb. Naphthylamine Black 6 B. Another recipe, 2-1/4 lb. Oxydiamine Black B M, 1 lb. Diamine Brown M, 1 lb. Orange E N Z, and 2 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Dark Brown.--Use 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine Black B M, 15-1/2 oz. Diamine Brown M, 1-3/4 lb. Indian Yellow G, and 2-3/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black. Another combination, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine Black B M, 1-1/2 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian Yellow G, and 5 oz. Naphthol Blue Black.
Scarlet.--3 lb. Benzopurpurine 4 B, 3/4 oz. Ponceau 3 R B, and 1/2 lb. Curcumine S.
Crimson.--1/2 lb. Congo Corinth G, 2 lb. Benzopurpurine 10 B, and 1/2 lb. Curcumine S.
Bright Blue.--2 lb. Chicago Blue 6 B, 3 oz. Alkali Blue 6 B, 1-1/2 oz. Zambesi Blue R X. After dyeing, rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz. sulphuric acid in 10 gallons water, then rinse well.
Dark Blue.--2-1/2 lb. Columbia Fast Blue 2 G, 3 oz. Sulphon Azurine D, 3 oz. Alkali Blue 6 B. After dyeing, rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz. sulphuric acid in 20 gallons of water.
Orange.--9 oz. Congo Brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O, and 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G.
Dark Green.--2 lb. Columbia Green, 1/2 lb. Sulphon Azurine D, 1/2 lb. Zambesi Blue B X, 1-1/2 oz. Curcumine S.
Black.--4 lb. Columbia Black F B, and 2 lb. Wool Black 6 B.
Pale Sage Green.--5 oz. Zambesi Black D, 3/4 lb. Chrysophenine G, and 1-1/2 lb. Curcumine S.
Slate.--1/2lb. Zambesi Black D, 3/4 oz. Zambesi Blue R X, 1/2 oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O, and 1-1/2 oz. Acid Violet 6 B.
Dark Grey.--1 lb. Columbia Black F B, 3 oz. Zambesi Black B, and 3/4 oz. Sulphon Azurine D.
Drab.--1-1/2 oz. Zambesi Black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1/4 oz. Curcumine extra, and 3 oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Brown.--5 oz. Zambesi Black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1-1/2 oz. Orange T A, and 2 oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Nut Brown.--3/4 lb. Congo Brown G, 1/4 lb. Chicago Blue R W, and 3/4 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Dark Brown.--1 lb. Congo Brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Benzopurpurine 4 B, 1-1/2 lb. Zambesi Black F, and 1/2 lb. Wool Black 6 B.
Stone.--1 oz. Zambesi Black D, 1/4 oz. Mandarine G, 1/4 oz. Curcumine extra, and 1-1/4 oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Slate Green.--3 oz. Zambesi Black D, 1-1/2 oz. Guinea Green B.
Sage Brown.--1/2 lb. Zambesi Black D, 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G extra, 3 oz. Curcumine extra, 3 oz. Acid Violet 6 B, 6 oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O, and 4-1/2 oz. Curcumine S.
Cornflower Blue.--3 oz. Chicago Blue 4 R, 1/4 lb. Zambesi Blue R X, 1/4 lb. Acid Violet 6 B, and 3/4 oz. Zambesi Brown G.
Dark Brown.--1-1/2 lb. Brilliant Orange G, 1/2 lb. Orange T A, 1 lb. Columbia Black F B, and 1/4 lb. Wool Black 6 B.
Dark Blue.--2 lb. Chicago Blue R W, 1 lb. Zambesi Blue R X, 1/2 lb. Columbia Black F B, 10 oz. Guinea Green B, and 1/2 lb. Guinea Violet 4 B.
The Janus dyes may be used for the dyeing of half wool union fabrics. The best plan of working is to prepare a bath with 5 lb. of sulphate of zinc. In this the goods are worked at the boil for five minutes, then there is added the dyes (previously dissolved in water), and the working continued for a quarter of an hour; then there is added 20 lb. Glauber's salt and the working at the boil continued for onehour, at the end of which time the dye-bath will be fairly well exhausted of colour. The goods are now taken out and put into a fixing bath of sumac or tannin, in which they are treated for fifteen minutes. To this same bath there is next added tartar emetic and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and the working continued for a quarter of an hour; then the bath is heated to 160° F., when the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried. In the recipes the quantities of dyes, sumac or tannin, and tartar emetic only are given, the other ingredients and processes are the same in all.
Dark Blue.--2-1/4 lb. Janus Dark Blue B, and 1/2 lb. Janus Green B, in the dye-bath; 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing bath.
Blue Black.--3-1/2 lb Janus Black I and 1/3 lb. Janus Black I I in the dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing bath.
Dark Brown.--2-1/2 lb. Janus Brown B, 1 lb. Janus Black I, 3-1/2 oz. Janus Yellow G, and 5 oz. Janus Red B in the dye-bath, with 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing bath.
Drab.--1-1/2 oz. Janus Yellow R, 1/4 oz. Janus Red B, 1 oz. Janus Blue R, and 1/4 oz. Janus Grey B B, in the dye-bath, and 4 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Grey.--5 oz. Janus Blue R, 3-1/4 oz. Janus Grey B, 1-1/2 oz. Janus Yellow R, and 1/4 oz. Janus Red B in the dye-bath, with 4 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Nut Brown.--1 lb. Janus Brown R, 8 oz. Janus Yellow R, and 1-1/2 oz. Janus Blue B in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Walnut Brown.--3 lb. Janus Brown B, 1 lb. Janus Red B, 1 lb. Janus Yellow R, and 1-1/4 oz. Janus Green B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Crimson.--2-1/2lb. Janus Red B, and 8 oz. Janus Claret Red B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Dark Green.--1-1/2 lb. Janus Green B, 1 lb. Janus Yellow R, and 8 oz. Janus Grey B in the dye-bath, with 4 lb. sumac extract and 1-1/4 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Chestnut Brown.--1 lb. Janus Brown R and 1 lb. Janus Yellow R in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Before the introduction of the direct dyes the method usually followed, and indeed is now to a great extent, is that known as Cross-dyeing. The goods were woven with dyed cotton threads of the required shade and undyed woollen threads; after weaving and cleansing the woollen part of the fabric was dyed with acid dyes such as Acid Magenta, Scarlet R, Acid Yellow, etc. In such methods care has to be taken that the dyes used for dyeing the cotton are such as stand acids, a by no means easy condition to fulfil at one time. Many of the direct dyes are fast to acids and therefore lend themselves more or less readily to cross-dyeing. For details of the dyes for cotton reference may be made to the sections on dyeing with the direct colours in the companion volume to this book onDyeing of Cotton Fabrics.
Shot Effects.--A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made and is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods is where the cotton of a mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to dye the two fibres in different colours and so produce a variety of shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here to enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay down the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then give some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The best plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to take advantage of the property of certainacid dyes which dye only the wool in an acid bath and of many of the direct colours which will only dye the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these lines, becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with the addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda or sulphuric acid, the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia to free them from the acid and afterwards dyed with the direct colour in an alkaline bath.
Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable dye-stuffs.
If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye on the liquor at 65° to 80° F., with the addition of 3-1/4 oz. Glauber's salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The addition of an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise slight quantities of acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent the dye-stuff from dyeing the cotton too deep a shade.
Very light shades can also be done on the padding machine. The dye-stuffs of Group (2), which have been previously enumerated, do not stain the wool at all or only very slightly and are therefore the most suitable. Less bright effects can be produced by simply dyeing the goods in one bath. The wool is first dyed at the boil with the wool dye-stuff in a neutral bath, the steam is then shut off and the cotton dyed by adding the cotton dye-stuff to the bath and dyeing without again heating. By passing the goods through cold water to which some sulphuric or acetic acid is added the brightness of most effects is greatly increased.
Gold and Green.--First bath, 1 lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4 oz. Acid Green, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the boil for one hour, then lift and rinse well. Second bath, 4 lb. Diamine Orange G and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work in the cold or at a lukewarm heat. Third bath at 120° F., 4 oz. Chrysoidine and 1/4 oz. Safranine.
Blackand Blue.--First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol Black 3 B and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine Sky Blue and 13 lb. Glauber's salt. Third bath, 6-1/2 oz. New Methylene Blue N; work as in the last recipe.
Green and Claret.--First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol Red C and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine Sky Blue F F, 1-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Gold Brown and Blue.--First bath, 2-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 14 oz. Diamine Sky Blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Dark Brown and Blue.--First bath, 1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 12 oz. Diamine Sky Blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Black and Green Blue.--First bath, 3 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant cochineal 4 R, 1 lb. Fast Acid Green B N, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine Sky Blue F F, 3-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
We may here note that in all the above recipes the second bath (for dyeing the cotton) should be used cold or at a lukewarm heat, and as strong as possible. It is not completely exhausted of colour, only about one-half going on the fibre. If kept as a standing bath this feature should be borne in mind and less dye-stuff used in the dyeing of the second and following lots of goods.