The Viceroy sent a message to them desiring them to be quiet, and to betake themselves to their houses, certifying them thatTirollwas not in his Palace, but escaped out of a back doore. The rude multitude would not bee satisfied with this, being now set on by two or three Priests who were joyned with them, and so they began more violently to batter the Palace gates and walls, having brought pikes, and holbards, and long poles; others had got a few Pistols, and birding Peeces, wherewith they shot, not caring whom they killed or wounded in the Palace. It was wonderfull to see that none of the better sort, none of the Judges, no high Justice, no inferiour Officers durst or would come out to suppresse the multitude, or to assist the Viceroy being in so great danger; nay I was told by some shopkeepers who lived in the Market place, that they made a laughing businesse of it, and the people that passed by went smiling and saying, Let the boyes and youngsters alone, they will wright our wrongs, they will find out before they have done, bothTirollandMexiaand him that protects them, meaning the Viceroy; but amongst them was much noted one Priest, namedSalazar, who spent much shot and bullets, and more his spirits in running about to spie some place of advantage, which hee might soonest batter downe. They found it seemes the prison doores easier to open, or else with helpe within they opened them, and let out all the malefactors, who joyned with them to assault the Palace. The Viceroy seeing no helpe came to him from the City, from his friends, from the Judges of the Chancery, from the Kings high Justices, nor other Officers for the peace, went up to theZotiesof his Palace with his Guard and Servants that attended on him, and set up the Royall Standard, and caused a Trumpet to bee sounded to call the City to ayde and assist their King. But this prevailed not, none stirred, all the chief of the City kept within doores. And when the multitude saw the Royall Standard out, and heard the Kings name from theZoties, they cryed out, and often repeated it,Viva el Rey, muera el mal govierno, mueran los des comulgados, that is to say, Our King live long, but let the evill government die, and perish, and let them die that are excommunicated. These words saved many of them from hanging afterwards, when the businesse was tried and searched into byDon Martin de Carrillo. And with these words in their mouths, they skirmished with them of theZotiesat least three houres, they above hurling downe stones, and they beneath hurling up to them and some shooting with a few Pistols and birding peeces at one another: and marke that in all this bitter skirmish there was not a peece of Ordnance shot, for the Viceroy had none for the defence of his Palace or person, neither had or hath that great City any for its strength and security, theSpaniardsliving fearelesse of theIndians, and (as they thinke) secure from being annoyed by any forraine Nation. There were slain in about six houres in all that this tumult lasted, seven or eight beneath in the Market place, and one of the Viceroy his Guard and a page in theZotiesabove. The day drawing to an end, the multitude brought pitch and fire, and first fired the prison, then they set on fire part of the Palace, and burnt downe the chief gate. This made some of the City, of the Gentry, and of the Judges to come out, lest the fire should prevaile farre upon the City, and to perswade the people to desist, and to quench the fire. Whilest the fire was quenching, many got into the Palace, some fell upon the Viceroyes stables, and there got part of his mules and horses rich furnitures, others began to fall upon some chests, others to teare down the hangings, but they were soone perswaded by the better sort of the City, to desist from spoile or robbery, lest by that they should bee discovered; other searched about forDon Pedro Mexia, forTirolland the Viceroy. None of them could bee found, having disguised themselves and so escaped. WhitherDon Pedro MexiaandTirollwent, it could not bee knowen in many dayes; but certaine it was that the Viceroy disguised himselfe in a Franciscan habit, and so in company of a Fryer went through the multitude to the Cloister of the Franciscans, where hee abode all that yeer, (and there I saw him the yeere after) not daring to come out, untill hee had informed the King and Counsell ofSpain,with what hath happened, and of the danger himselfe and the City was in, if not timely prevented. The King and Counsell ofSpaintook the businesse to consideration, and looked upon it as a warning peece, to a further mutiny and rebellion, and an example to other parts ofAmericato follow upon any such like occasion, if some punishment were not inflicted upon the chief offendors. Wherefore the yeere following 1625. which was when I went to those parts, the King sent a new Viceroy the Marques ofSerralvoto govern in the place of the Count ofGelves, and especially to aid and assistDon Martin de Carrilloa Priest, and Inquisitor of the Inquisition ofValladolid, who was sent with large Commission and authority to examine the foresaid tumult and mutiny, and to judge all offenders that should be found in it, yea and to hang up such as should deserve death. I was inMexicoin the best time of the tryall, and had intelligence fromDon Martin de Carrillohis owne Ghostly father a Dominican Fryer of the chief passages in the examination of the businesse; and the result was, that if Justice should have beene executed rightly, most of the prime ofMexicowould have suffered, for not comming in to the Royall Standard, when called by the sound of the Trumpet; the Judges some were put out of their places, though they answered that they durst not stirre out, for that they were informed that all the City would have risen against them if they had appeared in publick. The chief actors were found to bee the Criolians or Natives of the Countrey, who doe hate theSpanishGovernment, and all such as come fromSpain; and reason they have for it, for by them they are much oppressed, as I have before observed, and are and will bee alwayes watching any opportunity to free themselves from theSpanishyoke. But the chief fomenters of the mutiny were found to bee the Bishops party the Preists; and so had notSalazarand three more of them fled, they had certainly been sent to the Gallies ofSpainfor Galley slaves; this judgment was published against them. There were not above three or foure hanged of so many thousands, and their condemnation was for things which they had stollen out of the Viceroys Palace. And because further inquiry into the rebellion would have brought in at least half the City either for actors, or counsellors, or fomentors, the King was well advised to grant a generall pardon. The Archbishops proceedings were more disliked in the Court ofSpain, then the Viceroyes, and was long without any preferment; though, at last that there might be no exceptions taken by his party, nor cause given for a further stirring the embers to a greater combustion, the Councel thought fit to honor him in those parts where hee was born; and to make him Bishop ofZamoraa small Bishoprick inCastile; so that his wings were clipt, and from Archbishop hee came to bee but Bishop, and from threescore thousand Crownes yeerely rent he fell to foure or five thousand onely a yeere. The count ofGelveswas also sent toSpain, and well entertained in the Court, and therein made Master of the Kings horse, which inSpainis a Noblemans preferment.
And this History shewing the state and condition ofMexico, when I travelled to those parts I have willingly set down, that the Reader may by it bee furnished with better observations then my self (who am but a Neophyte) am able to deduct. Somewhat might bee observed from the Viceroyes covetousnesse; which doubtlesse in all is a great sinne, for asPaulwell adviseth, ITim.6. 10.The love of mony is the root of all evill; but much more to bee condemned in a Prince or Governour; whom it may blind in the exercise of Justice and Judgment, and harden those tender bowels (which ought to bee in him) of a father and shepheard to his flock and children. Wee may yet from this Viceroyes practice and example against a chiefe head of theRomishChurch, discover that errour of the Preists and Jesuites ofEngland, who perswade the people here that no temporall Magistrate hath power over them, and that to lay hands on them in wrath and anger (being as they say Consecrated to God and his Altar) isipso factoa deep excommunication; whereas wee see the contrary in this Viceroy a member of the Church ofRome, and yet exercising his temporall power against an Arch-Bishop, and byTirolltaking him from the Church, and as his prisoner sending him with just wrath and anger to a forraine and remote place of banishment. But lastly it is my desire that the High and Honorable Court of Parliament which now is sitting for the good of this Kingdome, and for the good of it hath already pulled downe the Hierarchy of such Prelates and Archprelates, would looke upon the trouble and uproare which the keys of the Church in the hand of an undiscreet Preistbrought upon that City ofMexico. Certainly as the strength of the Church well setled, and governed with subordination to the Magistrate, is likewise the strength of the Common-wealth; so on the other side the power of the Keyes in the Clergies hand to cast out what incestuousCorinthianthey please, without the rest of theCorinthiansconsent, ICor.5. 4, 5. may prove dangerous and troublesome to the Common-weale and good. For if the Clergy may use by itselfe, without the overseeing eye of the Magistrates Commissioners, the power of the keyes; who shall bee free from their censures, that any way will oppose them? The poor and ignorant will not onely bee the object of their censures, but the rich and wise and noble. Ruler and Magistrate will also come under their censures; wherein I finde a Minister may then as a Pope encroach upon the highest Crowne of an Emperour. Nay certainly inEnglandthe thoughts of some such aspiring Ministers have been higher then the thoughts of this Arch-Bishop ofMexicoover a Viceroy, the conceipt of their power with the Keyes have hoised them above their Prince, for I have heard one of them say, he knew not but that by the power of the keyes hee might as well excommunicate the King as any other private person. This conceit hath made the Pope ofRomefeare no earthly Prince, Emperour, Ruler or Magistrate; nay this hath made him to bee feared and respected and honoured by Kings and Princes; And why may not the same power in the hands of a Protestant Clergy, make the meanest and the highest to feare and dread them? But some will say, the Word of God being the Touchstone wherewith they are to try what points may be the subjects of their censures, by such a light and guidance they are not like to erre. But they then being themselves the Judges of the sense and meaning of the Word, who shall oppose their judgment, and their ensuing censures? What if to their triall and judgment they shall bring any Law enacted by a High Court of Parliament, and shall judge it not according to the Word of God, and so presse it to the peoples consciences; threatning with their censures such as shall obey it? in such a case how may the power of the keyes unlock and open a doore to the people of rebellion against their lawfull Magistrates? Oh what dangers may befall a Common-wealth, when thus the Clergy shall stand over poor and rich, Subject and Magistrate, asPetersstatue atRome, with Crosse-keyes in his hand? What a rebellion did the Archbishop ofMexicocause by excommunicatingDon Pedro Mexiafirst, and then the Viceroy? and how did the people fear his keyes more then their Viceroys temporall power and authority, siding with him against such as hee had excommunicated? What troubles did that DoctorSmithBishop ofChalcedonbring among the Papists, small and great ones, not long agoe here inEngland, laying upon them by the power of the Keyes a censure of Excommunication, if they confessed to, or did entertaine and heare the Masse of any, that had not derived their authority from him? Then were they in open rebellion one against another; the Secular Preists against the Monkes, Fryers, and Jesuites, and the Laity all troubled, some siding with one, and some with another, untill DoctorSmithhaving thus kindled the fire, was faine to leave it burning, and to betake himself toParis, and from thence to foment the dissention which with power of the Keyes hee had caused here.
Oh surely the Church so far is a good Mother, as it allowes a Magistrate to be a Father. And great comfort have those that live within the pale of the Church, to know that they have the Magistrate a Father to flye unto in their pressures and discomforts.
I must ingenuously confesse that one maine point that brought me from the Church ofRome, was the too too great power of the Keyes in the Popes, Bishops, and Preists hands, who studying more selfe Policy, then common Policy, looke upon the people, and with their power deale with them more as their subjects, then as politicall Members in a Common-wealth, rending and tearing them daily by their censures from that common and Politicall body to which they belong, without any hopes of care to bee had of them by their Magistrate and Politicall head and Governour. And I hope I shall not have fled from Antichrist who exalteth himself as head of the Church, and from that power hath his influence over all State and Politicall Heads and Rulers; to find in a Protestant Church any of his spirit, making a distinction of a spirituall and temporall head, forgetting the onely head Christ Jesus; which were it once granted, as the spirit is more noble then the body, so would the inference soon bee made, that they that are over the spirit, are higher in power then they that are over the body; which conclusion would soon bringMexicoestroubles among Protestants. Experiencein all my travails by sea and land, in most parts ofEuropeand ofAmerica, hath ever taught mee, that where the Clergy hath been too much exalted and enjoyed power over the people, there the Common-wealth hath soon fallen into heavy pressures and troubles. And let not this my observation seem strange as coming from a Minister, for I have learned from Christ,Matth.20. 25, 26, 27.That the Princes of the Gentiles exercise Dominion, and they that are great exercise authority. But it shall not bee so among you, but whosoever will bee great among you, let him bee your Minister; and whosoever will bee chiefe among you, let him be your Servant.
I hope the High Court of Parliament will so settle the Church and State here that this shall not feare any further troubles from that; and that wee who have our portion from the one, may bee Ministers and Servants under the Commissioners of the other. And thus largely I have described the State and condition ofMexicoin the time ofMontezuma, and since his death the manner and proportion of it, with the troubled condition I found it in when I went thither, by reason of a mutiny and rebellion caused by an Arch-Bishop the yeer before. I shall now come out ofMexico, and present unto you the places most remarkable about it; and from thence the severall parts and Countries ofAmerica, before I betake my self to the journey which I made fromMexicotoGuatemala, lying nine hundredEnglishmiles Southward, and from thence yet toCostarica, andNicoya, being nine hundred miles further towards the South.
Although my travailes by Sea and Land inAmericawere not above three or foure thousand miles (which is not the fift part of it, if exactly compassed) yet for the better compleating of this my worke I thought fit to inlarge my self to a full division of the many and sundry parts thereof, here first in generall; and hereafter more in particular of those parts wherein I lived twelve yeeres, and of those which I more exactly noted and observed as I travailed and passed through them. The chief division therefore of this greatest part of the World, is twofold onely, to wit, theMexicans, and thePeruanparts, which containe many great and sundry Provinces and Countries, some as big as our whole Kingdom ofEngland. ButMexicogiving name to halfeAmerica, is now calledNova Hispania, newSpain, from whence the Kings ofSpaindoe stile themselves,Hispaniarum Reges. TheMexicanpart containeth chiefly the Northern Tract, and comprehendeth these Provinces hitherto knowne and discovered, to wit,Mexico, Quivira, Nicaragua, Jucatan, Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia, Corterialis, andEstotilandia. The compasse of this part ofAmericais thirteen thousand miles. ThePeruanpart containeth all the Southern Tract, and is tyed to theMexicanby theIsthmusor strait ofDarien, being no more then 17 or as others say, in the narrowest place but 12 miles broad from the North to the South Sea. And many have mentioned to the Councell ofSpain, the cutting of a Navigable Channell through this smallIsthmus, so to shorten the Voiage toChina, and theMoluccoes. But the Kings ofSpainhave not as yet attempted to doe it, some say lest in the worke hee should lose those fewIndiansthat are left (would to God it were so that they were and had been so carefull and tender of the pooreIndianslives, more populous would that vast and spatious Countrey bee at this day:) but others say he hath not attempted that great worke, lest the passage by the CapeBona Esperanzagood hope, being left off, those Seas might become a receptacle of Pirates. However this hath not been attempted by theSpaniards, they give not for reason any extraordinary great charge, for that would soone bee recompensed with the speedy and easie conveying that way the Commodities from South to North Seas. ThisPeruanpart ofAmericacontaineth these Countries, or Kingdomes, to wit,Castella aurea, Guiana, Peru, Brasil, Chille; and the compasse of it is seventeen thousand miles. I shall not speake distinctly of all these parts, which better writers, and of more knowledgehave before mee discovered; and because some of them being out of theSpaniardsreach and dominion, from whom I have received my best intelligence, I have from them had little notice of them, nor experience, which indeed I intend to make my best guide in this my worke. Therefore to returne again to theMexicanpart, and the Northern Tract, I shall fall again upon the first and chiefe member of that division, which I said wasMexico. This aboundeth with golden sanded rivers, in which are many Crocodiles (though not so big as those ofEgypt), which theIndianpeople eat. It glorieth in the mountainesPopochampeche, andPopocatepec, which are of the same nature withÆtnaandVesuvius. Nay all the way South-ward as farre asLeoninNicaragua, there are many of these fiery mountaines. ButPopocatepecis one of the chiefe of them, which signifieth a hill of smoake, for many times it casteth out smoake and fire; it standeth eight leagues fromChololla; the ascending up unto it is very troublesome, and full of craggie rocks. WhenCortezpassed that way toMexico, he sent tenSpaniardsto view it, with manyIndiansto carry their victuals, and to guide them in the way. They approached so nigh the top, that they heard such a terrible noyse which proceeded from thence, that they durst not goe unto it, for the ground did tremble and shake, and great quantity of ashes did much disturb their way. But yet two of them who seemed to be most hardie, and desirous to see strange things, went up to the top, because they would not return with a sleevelesse answer, and that they might not be accounted cowards, leaving their fellowes behind them, proceeded forwards, and passed through that desart of ashes, and at length came under a great smoake very thick, and standing there a while, the darknesse vanished partly away, and then appeared the Vulcan and concavity, which is about halfe a league in compasse, out of the which the aire came rebounding with a very great noise, very shrill and whistling, so that the whole hill did tremble; it was like unto an oven where glasse is made. The smoake and heat was so great that they could not abide it, and of force were constrained to return by the way that they had ascended. But they were not gone farre, when the Vulcan began to flash out flames of fire, ashes and embers, yea and at the last stones of burning fire, and if they had not chanced to find a rocke, under which they shadowed themselves, undoubtedly they had there been burned. It is like unto the Vulcan ofSicilia, it is high and round, and never wanteth snow about some part of it. Before the coming ofCortezfor ten yeers space it had left off expelling vapour or smoake; but in the yeer 1540. it began again to burn, and with the horrible noyse thereof, the people that dwelt four leagues from it were terrified; the ashes that proceeded then from it reached toTlaxcallan, which standeth ten leagues distant from it; yea some affirme that it extended fifteen leagues distant, and burned the herbs in the gardens, the corne in the fields, and clothes that lay a drying. And many such hils and mountaines doth thisMexicanpart ofAmerica, or newSpaineabound with. The limits of it are on the East,Jucatan, and the gulfe ofMexico, on the WestCalifornio, on the South thePeruanpart. The Northern bounds are unknowne, so that we cannot certainly avow thisAmericato be continent, nor certainly affirme it to be an Island, distinguished from the old world. It was very populous before the arrivall of theSpaniards, who in seventeen yeers slew six millions of them, roasting some, plucking out the eyes, cutting off the arms of others, and casting them living to be devoured of wilde beasts. This chiefe Province ofAmericanamedMexico, is further subdivided into four parts, that is to say,Themistitan, Nova Galicia, Mechoacan, andGuastachan. Themistitanis the greatest and noblest of these foure; for that it containeth six Cities, and of them one isMexico, which giveth name to the halfe part ofAmerica, and is the seat of an Arch-bishop, and of theSpanishViceroy, whose greatnesse within I have before laid open; the second City isLa Puebla de las Angeles, the City of Angels; the thirdVillaruca, the fourthAntiquera; the fifthMeccioca; the sixthOttopan. But all these, excepting the two first, are but small places, named Citties formerly, for that theSpaniardsthought to have made them Bishops seats, which they have not been able to performe, by reason thatMexicoand the City ofAngelshath drawne to them the chiefe trading, and most of the inhabitants of the other foure. Especially the resort toMexicois so great, that all the Townes about (which formerly were ofIndians) are now inhabited bySpaniardsandMestizoes. I may not omit aboutMexicothat famous place ofChapultepec, which in the Heathens times was the burying place of the Emperours; and now by theSpaniardsis the Escuriall ofAmerica, where the Viceroyesthat die are also interred. There is a sumptuous palace built with many fair gardens, and devises of waters, and ponds of fish, whither the Viceroyes and the gentry ofMexicodo resort for their recreation. The riches here belonging to the Viceroyes Chappell are thought to be worth above a million of crownes.
Tacubais also a pleasant Towne full of orchards and gardens, in the very way toChapultepec. South-ward isToluco, rich also for trading, but above all much mentioned for the Bacon, which is the best of all those parts, and is transported far and neer. West-ward is the Towne called,La Piedadat the end of a Cawsey, whither the people much resort fromMexico, being drawn to the superstitious worship of a picture ofMary, which hath been enriched by the chiefe ofMexicowith many thousand pounds worth of gifts of chaines, and crownes of gold.
But more Northwest-ward three leagues fromMexicois the pleasantest place of all that are aboutMexico, calledLa Soledad, and by othersel desierto, the solitary or desert place and wildernesse. Were all wildernesses like it, to live in a wildernesse would be better then to live in a City. This hath been a device of poor Fryers named discalced, or barefooted Carmelites, who to make shew of their hypocriticall and apparent godlinesse, and that whilst they would be thought to live like Eremites, retired from the world, they may draw the world unto them; they have built there a stately Cloister, which being upon a hill and among rocks makes it to be more admired. About the Cloister they have fashioned out many holes and Caves in, under, and among the rocks, like Eremites lodgings, with a room to lie in, and an Oratory to pray in, with pictures, and Images, and rare devices for mortification, as disciplines of wyar, rods of iron, haire-cloths, girdles with sharp wyar pointes to girdle about their bare flesh, and many such like toyes which hang about their Oratories, to make people admire their mortified and holy lives. All these Eremeticall holes and caves (which are some ten in all) are within the bounds and compasse of the Cloister, and among orchards and gardens full of fruits and flowers, which may take up two miles compasse; and here among the rockes are many springs of water, which with the shade of the plantins and other trees, are most coole and pleasant to the Eremites; they have also the sweet smell of the rose and jazmin, which is a little flower, but the sweetest of all others; there is not any other flower to be found that is rare and exquisite in that countrey, which is not in that wildernesse to delight the senses of those mortified Eremites. They are weekly changed from the Cloister, and when their weeke is ended, others are sent, and they return unto their Cloister; they carry with them their bottles of wine, sweet-meats, and other provision; as for fruits the trees about do drop them into their mouthes. It is wonderfull to see the strange devises of fountains of water which are about the gardens; but much more strange and wonderfull to see the resort of Coaches, and gallants, and Ladies, and Citizens fromMexicothither, to walke and make merry in those desart pleasures, and to see those hypocrites, whom they looke upon as living Saints, and so think nothing too good for them, to cherish them in their desart conflicts with Satan. None goes to them but carries some sweet-meats, or some other dainty dish to nourish and feed them withall; whose prayers they likewise earnestly solicite, leaving them great almes of mony for their masses; and above all, offering to a picture in their Church, called our Lady ofCarmel, treasures of diamonds, pearles, golden chaines and crownes, and gownes of cloth of gold and silver. Before this picture did hang in my time twenty lampes of silver; the worst of them being worth a hundred pound; truely Satan hath given unto them what he offered Christ in the desart, All these things wil I give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship me; all the dainties and of all the riches ofAmericahath he given unto them in that their desart, for that they daily fall downe and worship him. In the way to this place there is another Towne yet calledTacubaya, where is a rich Cloister of Franciscans, and also many gardens and orchards, but above all much resorted to for the musicke in that Church, wherein the Friers have made theIndiansso dexterous and skilfull, that they dare compare with the Cathedrall Church ofMexico. These were the chiefe places of mine and my friends resort, whilst I abode aboutMexico, which I found to be most worth a History, and so thought fit here to insert them, and so passe on to the other parts or Provinces ofMexico.
Next to this is the Province ofGuastachan, which lieth in the rode fromSt. John de UlhuatoMexico, which is not so poore asHeylinmaketh it, for that now it doth abound with many rich farmes of Sugar, and of Cochinil, and reacheth as farre as the ValleyofGuaxacawhich is a most rich place. The chiefe City of this Province was wont to beTlaxcallan, whereof I have formerly spoken; but now the City ofGuaxacawhich is a Bishops seat, andXalappawhich is also of late made a Bishops seat, makes it more famous. It glorieth also inVilla Ricaa Port Towne very wealthy, because all the traffique betwixt the Old and NewSpainsdo passe through it. TheSpaniardshave in it two rich Colonies, calledPamico, andSt. Jamesin the valleys. The third Province ofMexicois calledMechoacan, which containeth in circuit fourscore leagues. It is also an exceeding rich countrey, abounding in Mulberry trees, silk, hony, wax, black-amber, works of divers coloured feathers, most rich, rare, and exquisite, and such store of fish, that from thence it tooke its name,Mechuoucan, which signifieth a place of fishing.
The language of theIndiansis most elegant and copious, and they tall, strong, active, and of very good wits, as may be seen in all their workes, but especially in those of feathers, which are so curious, that they are presented for rich presents to the King and Nobles ofSpaine. The chiefe City of this Province isValladolida Bishops-seat; and the best Townes areSinfonte, which was the residence of the Kings of this countrey. There is alsoPascuarandColimavery great Townes inhabited byIndiansandSpaniards. There are also two good havens, calledSt. Anthony, andSt. James, orSantiago. This country ofMechoacanwas almost as great as the Empire ofMexico, whenCortezconquered those parts. The King that was then ofMechoacanwas calledCaconzin, who was a great friend untoCortez, and a servitor to theSpaniards, and willingly yeelded himselfe as vassall to the King ofSpaine; yet such was the cruelty ofDon Nunio de Guzman, the first Ruler and President of the Chancery ofMexicoafter the conquest, that understanding he was put out of his office, he tooke his journey against theTeuchichimecas, and carried in his company five hundredSpaniards, with whom and six thousandIndianswhich by force he tooke out ofMechoacan, he conqueredXalixcowhich is now called the newGalicia. And as for this purpose hee passed throughMechoacan, he tooke Prisoner the KingCaconzin, (who was quiet and peaceable and stirred not against him) and tooke from him ten thousand markes of plate, and much gold and other treasure, and afterwards burned him, and many otherIndianGentlemen and principall persons of that Kingdome, because they should not complaine, saying that a dead dog biteth not. They were in this Kingdome as superstitious and idolatrous as in the rest ofAmerica. No divorcement was permitted amongst them, except the party made a solemn oath, that they looked not the one on the other stedfastly and directly at the time of their marriage. In the burying likewise of their Kings they were superstitious, cruell, and Idolatrous. When any King ofMechoacanhappened to be brought to such extremity of sicknesse that hope of life was past; then did he name and appoint which of his sons should inherit the state and Crown, and being known the new King or heir presently sent for all the Governours, Captains, and valiant souldiers, who had any office or charge, to come unto the buriall of his father, and he that came not, from thenceforth was held for a Traitour, and so punished. When the death of the old King was certaine, then came all degrees of estates, and did bring their presents to the new King for the approbation of his Kingdome: But if the King were not throughly dead, but at the point of death, then the gates were shut in, and none permitted to enter; and if he were throughly dead, then began a generall cry and mourning, and they were permitted to come where their dead King lay, and to touch him with their hands. This being done the carkasse was washed with sweet waters, and then a fine shirt put upon him, and a payre of shooes made of Dear skinne put on his feet, and about his ankles were tied bells of gold, about the wrists of his hands were put bracelets of Turkises and of gold likewise; about his neck they did hang collars of pretious stones and also of gold, and rings in his eares, with a great Turkise in his neither lip. Then his body was laid upon a large Beere whereon was placed a good bed under him; on his one side lay a bow with a quiver of arrowes, and on his other side lay an Image made of fine mantles of his own stature or bignesse, with a great tuffe of fine feathers, shooes upon his feet, with bracelets and a collar of gold. While this was a doing, others were busied in washing the men and women, which should be slain for to accompany him into hell. These wretches that were to be slain, were first banqueted and filled with drinke, because they should receive their death with lesse paine. The new King did appoint those who should die for to serve the King his father; and many of those simple soules esteemed that death soodious for a thing of immortall glorious. First six Gentlewomen of noble birth were appointed to die; the one to have the office of keeper of his jewels, which he was wont to weare; another for the office of cup-bearer; another to give him water with a bason and Ewer; another to give him alwaies the Urinall; another to be his Cooke; and another to serve for Landress. They slew also many women, slaves, and free-maidens for to attend upon the Gentlewomen, and moreover one of every occupation within the City. When all these that were appointed to die were washed, and their bellies full with meat and drinke, then they painted their faces yellow, and put garlands of sweet flowers upon each of their heads. Then they went in order of procession before the Beere, whereon the dead King was carried; some went playing on instruments made of Snail shells, and others played upon bones and shells of Sea Tortois, others went whistling, and the most part weeping. The sons of the dead King and other Noble men carried upon their shoulders the Beere where the Corps lay, and proceeded with an easie pace towards the Temple of the God calledCuricaveri; his kinsmen went round about the Beer singing a sorrowfull song. The officers and houshold-servants of the Court, with other Magistrates and Rulers of justice bare the Standards and divers other Arms. And about midnight they departed in the order aforesaid out of the Kings Palace with great light of fire-brands, and with a heavy noyse of their trumpets and drummes. The Citizens which dwelt where the Corse passed, attended to make clean the street. And when they were come to the Temple, they went four times round about a great fire which was prepared of Pine tree to burn the dead body. Then the Beer was laid upon the fire, and in the meane while that the body was burning, they mawled with a club those which had the garlands, and afterward buried them four and four as they were apparelled behind the Temple. The next day in the morning the ashes, bones and jewels were gathered and laid upon a rich mantle, the which was carried to the Temple gate, where the Preists attended to blesse those divellish reliques, whereof they made a dow or paste, and thereof an Image, which was apparelled like a man, with a visor on his face, and all other sorts of jewels that the dead King was wont to weare, so that it seemed a gallant Idoll. At the foot of the Temple staires they opened a grave ready made, which was square, large, two fadome deepe, it was also hanged with new mats roundabout, and a faire bed therein, in the which one of the Preists placed the Idoll made of ashes with his eyes towards the East part, and did hang round about the walls Targets of gold and silver, with bowes and arrows, and many gallant tuffes of feathers with earthen vessels, as pots, dishes, and platters, so that the grave was filled up with houshold-stuffe, chests covered with leather, apparel, Jewels, meate drinke and armour. This done, the grave was shut up and made sure with beames, boardes, and floored with earth on the top. All those Gentlemen who had served or touched any thing in the buriall, washed themselves and went to dinner in the Court or yard of the Kings house without any table, and having dined they wiped their hands upon certain lockes of Cotton-wooll, hanging downe their heads, and not speaking any word, except it were to aske for drinke. This ceremonie endured five daies, and in all that time no fire was permitted to be kindled in the City, except in the Kings house and Temples, nor yet any corne was ground, or market kept, nor any durst goe out of their houses, shewing all the sorrow that might be possible for the death of their King. And this was the superstitious manner of burying the Kings ofMechoacan. This people did punish adultery most rigorously; for to commit it was death as well for the man as the woman. But if the adulterer were a Gentleman, his head was decked with feathers, and after that he was hanged, and his body burned; and for this offence was no pardon, either for man or woman. But for avoiding of adultery they did permit other common women, but no publike and ordinary stewes. Now theIndiansofMechoacanare greatly taken with the popish devices, and are strong in that religion, as any part ofAmerica.
The fourth and last Province of the Countrey or Empire ofMexico, is calledGalicia nova, and is watered with two very great rivers, the one namedPiastle, and the otherSan Sebastian. This Province glorieth in many great Townes ofIndians; but especially in six, inhabited both byIndiansandSpaniards; the first and chiefest isXalisco, taken byNunio de Guzman1530. when he fled fromMexicoin a rage, and tooke prisoner and burned the King ofMechoacan. The second isGuadalaiara. The thirdCoanum. The fourthCompostella. The fifth,St. Espirit. The sixth,Capola, which now is calledNova Mexico, newMexico. And here it is that theSpaniardsare daily warring against theIndianswhich live Northward, and are not as yet reduced nor brought under theSpanishyoake and government. They are valiantIndians, and hold theSpaniardshard to it; and have great advantage against them in the rocks and mountaines, where they abide and cut off manySpaniards. Their chief weapons are but bowes and arrowes, and yet with them from the thick Woods, hils and rockes they annoy and offend theSpaniardsexceedingly. I have heard someSpaniardssay that they flie and climbe up the rocks like Goates; and when they draw nigh unto them, then they cry out with a hideous noise shooting their arrowes at them, and in an instant are departed and fled unto another rock. The reason why theSpaniardsare so earnest to pursue and conquer theseIndians, more then many others ofAmerica, which as yet are not brought in subjection to theSpaniards, is for the many Mines of silver and treasure of gold which they know to bee there. They have got already sure possession of part of those riches in the Mines, called St.Lewis Sacatecas, from whence they send all the silver that is coyned in the Mint houses ofMexicoand the City ofAngels, and every yeere besides toSpainin silver wedges at least six Millions. But the further theSpaniardsgoe to the North, still more riches they discover; and faine would they subdue all those Northern parts (as I have heard them say) lest ourEnglishfromVirginia, and their other plantations, get in before them. I have heard them wonder that ourEnglishenter no further into the maine land; surely say they, either they feare theIndians, or else with a little paultry Tobacco they have as much as will maintaine them in lazinesse. Certainly they intend to conquer through those heathenishIndians, untill by land they come toFloridaandVirginia, (for so they boast) if they bee not met with by some of our Northern Nations ofEurope, who may better keep them off then those poorIndians, and may doe God greater and better service with those rich Mines, then theSpaniardshitherto have done.
Thus having spoken somewhat of the foure Provinces ofMexico, which was the first member of the divisionMexicanandPeruan; Now I shall briefly say somewhat further of three more Countries belonging to theMexicanor Northern Tract as opposite to thePeruan, omitingFlorida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia Corterialis, andEstotilandia, because I will not write as many doe by relation and hearsay, but by more sure intelligence, insight and experience. In my first division next toMexico, I placedQuivira, Jucatan, andNicaragua; of these three therefore I shall say a little, and then some what of thePeruanpart.Quivirais seated on the most Western part ofAmerica, just over againstTartary, from whence being not much distant some suppose that the Inhabitants first came into this new World. And indeed theIndiansofAmericain many things seeme to bee of the race and progenie of theTartars, in thatQuiviraand all the West side of the Country towardsAsiais farre more populous then the East towardsEurope, which sheweth these parts to have been first inhabited. Secondly, their uncivility, and barbarous properties tell us that they are most like theTartarsof any. Thirdly, the West side ofAmericaif it bee not continent withTartary, is yet disjoyned by a small straight. Fourthly, the people ofQuiviraneerest toTartary, are said to follow the seasons and pasturing of their cattell like theTartarians. All this side ofAmericais full of herbage, and injoyeth a temperate aire. The people are desirous of glasse more then of gold; and in some places to this day are Cannibals. The chief riches of this Country are their Kine, which are to them as we say of our Ale to drunkards, meat, drink and cloth, and more too. For the Hides yeeld them houses, or at least the coverings of them; their bones bodkins, their hair thred, their sinews ropes; their horns, mawes and bladders, vessels; their dung, fire; their Calve skinnes, budgets to draw and keepe water; their blood, drink; their flesh, meat.
There is thought to bee some traffique fromChina, orCathaya, hither to those parts, where as yet theSpaniardshave not entred. For whenVazquez de Coronadoconquered some part of it, hee saw in the further Sea certaine ships, not of common making; which seemed to bee well laden, and bare in their prowes, Pelicans, which could not bee conjectured to come from any Country, but one of these two. InQuivirathere are but two Provinces knowne unto us, which areCibola, andNova Albion. Cibolalyeth on the Eastside, whose chief City is of the same name, and denominates the whole Province. The chief Town next toCibolais calledTotontaa, which is temperate andpleasant, being situated upon a River so called. The third Town worth mentioning is calledTinguez, which was burnt by theSpaniards; who under the conduct ofFrancisco Vasquez de Coronadomade this Province subject to the King ofSpain, Anno Dom.1540. And since this Town ofTinguezhath been rebuilt and inhabited by theSpaniards; There is a goodly Colledge of Jesuites, who only preach to theIndiansof that country.Nova Albionlyeth on the West side towardsTartary, and is very little inhabited by theSpaniards, who have found no wealth or riches there. Our ever Renowned and Noble Captain SirFrancis Drakediscovered it, entred upon it, and hee named itNova Albion, because the King that then was, did willingly submit himself unto our QueenElizabeth.
The Country abounds with fruits pleasing both the eye and the Palate. The people are given to hospitality, but withall to witchcraft and adoration of devils. The bounds between thisQuiviraandMexicoEmpire isMar Virmiglio, orCalifornio. The third Kingdome belonging to theMexicanpart and Northern Tract isJucatan; which was first discovered byFrancisco Hernandez de Cordova, in the year 1517. It is calledJucatan, not as some have conceited fromJoctanthe son of Heber, who they thinke came out of the East, where the Scripture placeth him,Gen.12. 23. to inhabite here, but fromJucatanwhich in theIndiantongue, signifieth, what say you? for when theSpaniardsat their first arriving in that Country did aske of theIndiansthe name of the place, the Savages not understanding what they meaned, replyed unto themJucatan, which is, what say you? whereupon theSpaniardsnamed it, and ever since have called itJucatan. The whole Country is at least 900 miles in circuit, and is aPeninsula. It is situated over against the Isle ofCuba; and is divided into three parts, firstJucatanit selfe, whose Cities of greatest worth, areCampeche, Valladolid, Merida, Simaricas, and one which for his greatnesse and beauty, they callCaire. This Country among theSpaniardsis held to bee poor; the chief Commodities in it are hony, wax, Hides, and some Sugar, but no Indigo, Cochinil, nor Mines of silver; There are yet some drugs much esteemed of by the Apothecaries,Cana fistula, Zarzaparillaespecially; and great store ofIndian Maiz. There is also abundance of good Wood and Timber fit for shipping, whereof theSpaniardsdoe make very strong ships, which they use in their voiages toSpainand back again. In the yeer 1632. theIndiansof this Country in many places of it were like to rebell against theirSpanishGovernour, who vexed them sorely, making them bring in to him their Fowles and Turkies (whereof there is also great abundance) and their hony and wax, (wherein hee traded) at the rate and price which hee pleased to set them for his better advantage; which was such a disadvantage to them, that to enrich him they impoverished themselves; and so resolved to betake themselves to the Woods and Mountaines; where in a rebellious way they continued some Months, untill the Franciscan Fryers, who have there great power over them, reduced them back, and the Governour (lest hee should quite lose that Country by a further rebellion) granted to them not onely a generall pardon in the Kings name, but for the future promised to use them more mildly and gently.
The second part of it is calledGuatemala, (wherein I lived for the space of almost twelve yeers) whose Inhabitants have lost formerly halfe a million of their kinsmen and friends by the unmercifull dealing of theSpaniards; and yet for all the losse of so many thousands, there is no part ofAmericamore flourishing then this with great and populousIndiansTownes. They may thank the Fryers who defend them daily against theSpaniardscruelty, and this yet for their owne ends; for while theIndiansflourish and increase, the Fryers purses flourish also and are filled. This Country is very fresh and plentifull. The chief Cities areGuatemala, Cassuca, andChiapa; whereof I shall speak more largely hereafter. The third part ofJucatanisAcasamil, which is an Island over againstGuatemalawhich is now commonly called by theSpaniards Sta Cruz, whose chief Towne isSta. Cruz.
The fourth and last Country of the division of theMexicanpart and Northern Tract ofAmerica(which is under theSpanishGovernment, and my best knowledge and experience) isNicaragua, which standeth South East fromMexico, and above foure hundred and fifty leagues from it. Yet it agreeth somewhat withMexicoin nature both of soile and Inhabitants. The people are of good stature, and of colour indifferent white. They had, before they received Christianity, a setled and politick forme of Government; Onely, asSolonappointed no Law for a mans killing of his father, so had this people none for the murtherer of a King, both of them conceiting, that menwere not so unnaturall, as to commit such crimes. A theef they judged not to death, but adjudged him to be slave to that man whom hee had robbed; till by his service hee had made satisfaction: a course truely more mercifull and not lesse just, then the losse of life.
This Countrey is so pleasing to the eye, and abounding in all things necessary, that theSpaniardscall itMahometsParadise. Among other flourishing trees, here groweth one of that nature, that a man cannot touch any of its branches, but it withereth presently. It is as plentifull of Parrets, as our Countrey ofEnglandis of Crowes; Turkies, Fowles, Quailes and Rabbets are ordinary meat there. There are many populousIndianTownes (though not so many as aboutGuatemala) in this Countrey; and especially two Cities ofSpaniards, the oneLeon, a Bishops Seat, and the otherGranada, which standeth upon a Lake of fresh water, which hath above three hundred miles in compasse, and having no intercourse with the Ocean, doth yet continually ebbe and flow. But of this Countrey, and of this City especially I shall say somewhat more, when I come to speake of my travailing through it.
Thus I have briefly touched upon theMexicanpart, and so much of the Northern Tract as is under the King ofSpainhis Dominion, leaving more particulars, untill I come to shew the order of my being in and journeying through some of these Countries. I will now likewise give you a glimpse of the Southern Tract, andPeruanpart ofAmerica. Which containeth chiefly five great Countries or Kingdomes, some in whole, and others in part, subject to the Crown ofSpainandPortugal, which are, firstCastella aurea; secondly,Gujana; thirdly,Peru; fourthly,Brasile; fifthly,Chille. But I will not fill my History with what others have written of the foure last named Countries, wherein I was not much; but what I could learne ofPeru, I will briefly speak, and so come to the firstCastella aurea, through which I travailed.Peruis held to be yet more rich a Countrey then isMexico; for although it hath not the conveniency of trafique by the North Sea, whichMexicohath; but doth send the Commodities in it toPanama, and from thence transports them either over the straightIsthmus, or by the RiverChiagretoPortabelupon the North Sea; yet the Countrey is farre richer thenMexico, by reason of the more abundance of Mines of silver which are in it. The mountaines namedPotosiare thought to be of no other metall, which the King ofSpainwill not have to be opened until they have exhausted those which are already discovered and digged, and have found theSpaniardsworke enough, and yeelded them treasure enough ever since they first conquered those parts. The soile is very fruitfull of all such fruits as are found inSpain. The Olives are bigger then those ofSpain, the oyle sweeter and cleerer. The Grapes yeeld also a wine farre stronger then any ofSpain, and there is much made, by reason it cannot conveniently bee brought fromSpain. There is likewise wheat in great store; and all this fruitfull soile lyeth low under high Mountaines which divide betwixtIndiansnot as yet conquered andBrasile. But those Mountaines are a great helpe unto those pleasant Valleys with the waters that fall from them; for in all those parts inhabited bySpaniardstowards the South Sea, it is most certain and most observable that it never raineth, in so much that the houses are uncovered on the tops, and onely matts laid over them to keep off the dust, and yet is this Countrey what with the waters that fall from the Mountaines, what with the morning and evening dewes, as fruitfull and plentifull as any Countrey in the World. The chief City is calledLima, where there is a Viceroy and a Court of Chancery, and an Arch-Bishop. It hath a Port some two miles from it namedCallau; where lie the ships that convey yearly the treasure of that Kingdome toPanama. There lie also other ships, which trafique to theEast-India's, and to all the Coasts ofGuatemala, and toAcapulcothe Southern Haven ofMexico. This Port ofCallauis not so strong as the great, nay inestimable wealth that is commonly in it and in the City ofLimashould require, for I have heard manySpaniardssay, that in the yeare 1620. a few ships ofHollanders(as some say) or ofEnglish(as others affirme) appeared before the Haven waiting for the ships that were to convey the Kings revenews toPanama, and hearing that they were departed (though by a false report) followed them, and so forsooke the attempting to take theCallau; which certainly had they manly attempted, they had taken it, and in it the greatest treasure that in any one part of the world could have beene found. But theSpaniardsseldome see thereabout foraine ships, and so live more carelesly in securing or strengthning that Coast. ThoughPerubeethus rich in fruits and Mines, yetChillefarre exceedeth it in gold; which edgeth theSpaniardsto a constant and continuall Warre with the Inhabitants, which are a strong, warlike, and most valiant people. They are grown as skilfull in the use of weapons, swords, Pistols and Muskets as theSpaniards, and have taken manySpaniards, men and women prisoners; and or theSpanishwomen have had so many children, calledMestizoes, that by them (who have proved most valiant) they have much increased both their strength and skill. They hold theSpaniardshard to it, and the War is become the most dangerous of any theSpaniardshave; in so much that the Counsell ofSpaindoth pick out fromFlandersandItaly, the best souldiers to send them thither. And a Captaine that hath served long, well and faithfully inFlanders, by way of credit and promotion is sent to the Warres ofChille, to fight for that great treasure of gold, which certainly is there. TheSpaniardshave in it three faire Cities; theConception(which is a Bishops Seat) andSantiago, andValdivia. This last is so named from oneValdivia, who was Governour of it, and the first cause and author of those Wars.
This man was so extraordinarily covetous of the gold of that Countrey, that hee would not let theIndianspossesse or injoy any of it themselves; but did vex them, whip, and beat, yea and kill some of them, because they brought him not enough, and imployed them daily in seeking it out for him, charging them with a tax and imposition of so much a day: which theIndiansnot being able to performe, nor to satisfie an unsatiable minde and greedy covetousnesse, resolved to rebell, but so that first they would fill and satiate his heart with gold so that hee should never more covet after that yellow and glittering metall. Wherefore they joyned and combined themselves together in a warlike posture, and tooke some quantity of gold and melted it, and with it resolutely came uponValdiviathe Governour, saying, OValdiviawe see thou hast a greedy and unsatiable minde and desire after our gold; wee have not been able to satisfie thee with it hitherto; but now wee have devised a way to satiate this thy greedy covetousnesse; here is now enough, drink thy full of it; and with these words they tooke him, and powred the melted gold downe his throat, wherewith he died, never more coveting after that bright and shining drosse, and naming with his name and death that City ofValdivia, and with his covetousnesse leaving a rebellion which hath continued to a cruell and bloody War unto this day.
GuianaandBrasileI shall omit to speak of, not having been in any part of them.Brasileis little talked of by theSpaniards, belonging to the Crowne ofPortugall, and now part of it to the high and mighty States of theNetherlands, who will better satisfie by their Histories, and acquaintEuropewith the riches that are in it.
I return unto the first part mentioned by me in the Southern andPeruanTract, which was said to beeCastella aurea, goldenCastile, so called for the abundance of gold that is found in it. This containeth the Northern part ofPeruana, and part of theIsthmus, which runneth between the North and South Sea. Besides the gold in it, yet it is admirably stored with silver, Spices, Pearls, and medicinall Herbes. It is divided into foure Provinces. The first is calledCastella del oro; the second,Nova Andaluzia; the thirdNova Granada; the fourth,Carthagena. Castella del orois situated in the veryIsthmus, and is not very populous by reason of the unhealthfulnesse of the aire, and noisome savour of the standing pooles. The chief places belonging to theSpaniards, are firstTheonimay, orNombre de Dioson the East; the second, which is six leagues fromNombre de DiosisPortabel, now chiefly inhabited by theSpaniardsand Mulattoes, and Blackmores, andNombre de Diosalmost utterly forsaken by reason of its unhealthfulnesse. The ships which were wont to anchor inNombre de Dios, and there to take in the Kings treasure, which is yeerly brought fromPerutoPanama, and from thence to the North Sea, now harbour themselves inPortabel; which signifyethPorto bello, a faire and goodly Haven, for so indeed it is, and well fortified at the entrance with three Castles, which can reach and command one another. The third and chiefe place belonging to theSpaniardsinCastella del oroisPanama, which is on the Westside and upon the South Sea. This City andNombre de Dioswere both built byDidacus de Niquesa. AndNombre de Dioswas so called, becauseNiquesahaving been crossed with many mischances and misadventures at Sea, when hee came to this place greatly rejoyced, and bad his men now goe on shore inNombre de Dios, in the name of God. But as I have before observed, the aire being here very unhealthy, the King ofSpainin the yeare 1584. commanded the houses ofNombre de Diosto be pulleddowne, and to be rebuilt in a more healthy and convenient place: which was performed byPeter AriasinPortabel. But being now uponNombre de Dios, I should wrong my Country if I should not set out to the publike view the worth of her people shewed upon this place, and to this day talked on and admired by theSpaniards, who doe not only remember SirFrancis Drake, & teach their children to dread and fear even his name for his attempts uponCarthagenaand all the coast about, and especially uponNombre de Dios, and from it marching as farre as the great mountaine calledSt. PablotowardsPanama: but furthermore keep alive amongst them (and in this my History it shall not die) the name of one of SirFrancis Drakehis followers and Captains namedJohn Oxenham, whose attempt on this coast was resolute and wonderfull.
This Noble and gallant Gentleman arriving with threescore and ten souldiers in his company as resolute as himselfe, a little above this Towne ofNombre de Diosdrew a land his ship, and covering it with boughes, marched over the land with his Company guided byBlack-mores, untill he came to a river. Where he cut downe wood, made him a Pinnace, entred the South-sea, went to the Island of Pearles, where hee lay ten daies waiting for a prize, which happily he got (though not so happily after kept it) for from that Island he set upon twoSpanishships, and finding them unable to fight, he speedily made them yeeld, and intercepted in them threescore thousand pound weight of gold, and two hundred thousand pound weight in barres or wedges of silver, and returned safely again to the maine land. And though by reason of a mutiny made by his owne Company he neither returned to his country nor to his hidden ship; yet was it such a strange adventure as is not to be forgotten, in that the like was never by any other attempted, and by theSpaniardsis to this day with much admiration recorded.
Much part of thisCastella aureaas yet is not subdued by theSpaniards, and so doubtlesse a great treasure lieth hid in it for that people and nation whose thoughts shall aspire to find it out. In the year 1637. when I chanced to be inPanamareturning homewards to my Country, there came thither some twentyIndiansBarbarians by way of peace to treate with the President of the Chancery concerning their yeelding up themselves to the government of the King ofSpaine. But as I was informed afterwards atCarthagena, nothing was concluded upon, for that theSpaniardsdare not trust thoseIndians, whom they have found to have rebelled often against them for their hard usage and carriage towards them. TheseIndianswhich then I saw were very proper, tall and lusty men, and well complexioned; and among them one of as red a haire as any our nation can shew; they had bobs of gold in their eares, and some of them little pieces of gold made like a halfe moone hanging upon their neither lips, which argues store of that treasure to be amongst them. Unto this country is joyningNova Andaluzia, which hath on the North sideCastella del oro, and on the SouthPeru; The best Cities in it areTocoio, now by theSpaniardscalledSt. Margarets, and another calledS. Espiritu. Nova Granadais situated on the South side ofCarthagena, and from the abundance and fertility ofGranadainSpaineit hath taken its name. The chiefe Townes and Cities in it are six. FirstTungia, which is supposed to be directly under theÆquator. The second isTochaimum. The third,Popaian, the richest of them all. The fourth,Sta. Fee, orSt. Faith, an Archbishops seat, and a Court of Justice and Chancery, governed likePanamaandGuatemala, by a President and six Judges, and a Kings Attorney and two high Justices of Court, who have six thousand duckats a yeer allowed them out of the Kings treasure. The fifth City isPalma; and the sixthMerida. FromCarthagenathrough this countrey ofGranadalieth the rode way toLimainPeru, all by land. This Country is very strong by reason of the situation of it much amongst stony rockes, which compasse and environ it, and through which there are very narrow passages. Yet it is full of pleasant valleys which do yeeld much fruit, Corne andIndianMaiz. There are also in it some Mines of silver, and many golden sanded rivers.Carthagena, which is the last Province ofCastella aurea, hath also a very fruitfull soil, in the which groweth a tree, which if any one do touch, he will hardly escape a poysoning.
The chiefe Cities in it are, firstCarthagena, which SirFrancis Drakein the yeer 1585. surprised, and (as theSpaniardsaffirme) burned most part of it, and besides inestimable sums of money, took with him from thence 230 peeces of Ordnance. I dare say now it hath not so many; yet it is reasonable well fortified; though not so strong asPortabel.It is a faire and gallant City and very rich, by reason of the pearles which are brought to it fromMargarita, and the Kings revenues, which from allNova Granadaare sent thither. It is a Bishops seat, and hath many rich Churches and Cloisters. It is not governed by a Court of Justice and Chancery asSta. Feeis, but onely by one Governour. It hath been often moved to the Councell ofSpaineto have some Galleys made to runne about those Seas, and thatCarthagenabee the chiefe harbour of them. From this City receivedEnglandthe losse of that little Island namedProvidenceby us, and by theSpaniards Sta. Catalina, which though but little, might have been of a great, nay greater advantage to our Kingdom, than any other of our plantations inAmerica; which theSpaniardswel understood when they set al their strength ofCarthagenaagainst it; but I hope the Lord hath his time appointed when we shall advantage our selves by it again. To this City ofCarthagenacometh every yeer also in small Frigots most of the Indigo, Cochinil & Sugar, which is made in the country ofGuatemala, theSpaniardsthinking it safer to ship these their goods in little Frigots upon the lake ofGranadainNicaragua, & from thence to send them toCarthagenato be shipped with the Galeons that come fromPortabelwith the treasure ofPeru, than to send them by the ships ofHonduras, which have often been a prey unto theHollanders. These frigots were thought by theSpaniardsto come too neer the reach ofProvidence, and therefore it hath been their care and providence to remove us from this reach of their Frigots. The second great Towne of this Countrey ofCarthagenaisAbuida. The thirdSta. Martha, which is a rich government ofSpaniards, and doth much fear ourEnglishandHollandships; it is seated on the riverde Abuida, otherwise calledSt. JohnandRio di Grand. There is alsoVenezuelaandNew-Caliz, great, rich, and strong Townes. And these three last regions,Andaluzia Nova, Nova Granada, andCarthagenaare by theSpaniardscalledTierra firme, or firme land, for that they are the strength ofPerufrom the North, and the basis of this reversedPyramis.
Thus have I brought thee, Gentle Reader, round aboutAmerica, and shewed thee the Continent of that biggest part of the world; from the which thou mayst observe the power and greatnesse of the King ofSpain, who hath got under his Scepter and Dominion so many thousand miles, which were they reckoned up, would be found to be more then are about allEurope. But not only isAmericagreat and spatious by land, but also by sea, glorying in more and some greater Islands, then any other part of the world. It would but cause tediousnesse, and seem prolixity to number them all up, which is a worke hard and difficult, for that many as yet are not knowne nor inhabited, and whose goodnesse and greatnesse is not discovered; for the Islands calledLucoidasare thought to be foure hundred at least. Therefore I will omit to be over tedious and prolixe, and will but briefly speake of the best and chiefe of them, taking them in order from that part of the Continent,Carthagena, where even now I left thee. But in the first place calls upon my pen the Jewel Island calledMargarita, which is situated in the sea nigh untoCastella aurea, and not farre distant from two other Islands, namedCubagnaandTrinidado. True it is this Island ofMargaritais by some much slighted for want of corne, grasse, trees and water; in so much that it hath been knowne sometime that an inhabitant of that Island hath willingly changed for a Tun of water a Tunne of wine. But the great abundance of pretious stones in it maketh amends for the former wants and defects; for from them is the name ofMargaritaimposed on that Island. But especially it yeeldeth store of pearles, those gemmes which the Latine writers callUniones, becausenulli duo reperiuntur indiscreti, they alwaies are found to grow in couples. In this Island there are many rich Merchants, who have thirty, fourty, fiftyBlack-moreslaves only to fish out of the sea about the rockes these pearles. TheseBlack-moresare much made of by their Masters, who must needs trust them with a treasure hidden in the waters, and in whose will it is to passe by of those they find, none, few, or many. They are let downe in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under the water, untill by pulling the rope by which they are let downe, they make their sign to taken up. I have heard some say that have thus dealt in pearles, that the chief meat they feed theirBlack-moreswith, is roast-meat, which maketh them their wind & breath longer in the water. FromMargaritaare all the pearles sent to be refined and bored toCarthagena, where is a faire and goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearle-dressers. Commonly in the moneth ofJulythere is a ship or two at most ready in that Island to carry the Kings revenue, and the Merchants pearles toCarthagena. One of these ships are valued commonly at threescore thousand, or fourscore thousand duckats,and sometimes more; and therefore are reasonable well manned; for that theSpaniardsmuch feare ourEnglishand theHollandships. The yeare that I was inCarthagena, which was 1637. a ship of these laden with pearles was chased by one of our ships from the Island ofProvidence(by some it was thought to be our ship called theNeptune) which after a little fighting had almost brought the pooreSpaniardto yeeld his pearles, and had certainly carried away that great treasure (as I was informed inCarthagenafoure daies after the fight by aSpaniardwho was in the ship ofMargarita) had not two other ships ofHollandcome between to challenge from ourEnglishman that prize, alleadging their priviledge from the mighty States united for all prizes upon those seas and coast. And whilst ourEnglishandHollanderdid thus strive for the Pearles, theSpanishship ran on shore upon a little Island, and speedily unladed and hid in the woods part of the treasures, and perceiving theHollandercoming eagerly in pursuit of it, theSpaniardset on fire the ship, and neitherSpaniard, English, norHollander, enjoyed what might have been a great and rich prize toEngland. FromCarthagenawas sent presently a man of Warre to bring home the pearles hid in the wood, which were not the third part of what was in the ship.
Jamaicais another Island under the power of theSpaniards, which is in length 280. miles, and 70. in breadth, which though it exceedMargaritain sweet and pleasant streames and fountaines of water, yet is far inferiour to it in riches. Some Hides, some Sugar, and some Tobacco are the chiefe commodities from thence. There are only two Townes of note in it,OristanaandSevilla; here are built ships which have proved as well at sea, as those that are made inSpaine. This Island was once very populous, but now is almost destitute ofIndians; for theSpaniardshave slain in it more then 60,000; in so much that women as well here as on the Continent did kill their children before they had given them life, that the issues of their bodies might not serve so cruell a nation. But farre beyond the two former is the Island ofCuba, which is three hundred miles long, and seventy broad, which was first made knowne toEuropebyColumbushis second navigation. This Island is full of Forrests, Lakes, and mountaines. The aire is very temperate, the soile very fertill, producing brasse of exact perfection, and some gold though drossie hath formerly been found in it. It aboundeth also with Ginger, Cassia, Masticke, Aloes, some Cinnamon, Cana fistula, Zarzaparilla, and Sugar, and hath of flesh, fish, and fowles great plenty; but especially such store of sea Tortois, and Hogs, that the ships at their returne toSpainemake their chiefe provision of them. My selfe chanced to take physicke there, and whereas I thought that day I should have a fowle or rabbet after my physicks working, they brought me a boyled peece of fresh young Porke, which when I refused to eat, they assured me it was the best dish the Doctors did use to prescribe upon such daies.
The chiefe Cities of this Island areSantiagoon the Northerne shore, built byJames de Valasco, a Bishops seat, and secondly,Havana, which is also on the Northerne shore, and is a safe Rode for ships, and the staple of merchandize, and (as theSpaniardscall it) the key of all theWest-India's, to lock up or unlock the doore or entrance to allAmerica. Here rideth the King ofSpainesNavy, and here meet all the Merchant ships from severall ports and Havens of all those Countries afore-named, whether from the Islands or from the Continent: in a word here commonly in the month ofSeptemberis joyned all the treasure as I may say ofAmerica, all the King ofSpainsrevenews, with as much more of Merchant goods, which the yeer that I was there were thought to be in all the worth of thirty millions. And the ships which that yeer there did meet to strengthen one another were 53. saile, and set out sooner that yeer then any other upon the 16. ofSeptember, having that day a faire wind to wafte them homewards through the Gulf ofBahama. Havanatherefore being the store-house of allAmericaestreasure, it hath been theSpaniardschiefe care to fortifie that; and truely it is so strong, that theSpaniardshold it impossible to be taken, and doe boast of foure impregnable forts, to wit atAntwerp, Millan, Pamplona, andHavana. This hath two strong Castles, the one at the point or entrance of the Haven toward the Sea; the other more within, on the other side almost over against it; which two Castles (the passage in the mouth of the haven being so narrow, that one onely ship in breast may enter) will keep and defend the Port from many hundred saile. I was my selfe in the great and chiefe Castle, and truly found it very strong, though by land I judged it might be as easily taken, as other strong Castles here inEuropehave been overpowerd by a great and powerfull army. It hath init besides many others, twelve peeces of Ordnance of brasse exceeding great, which they call The twelve Apostles. But for all this strength of theHavana, it could not once defend six or seven millions (according to theSpaniardsowne account) which the one part of the Kings Navy brought from St.John de Ulhuato the sight of this impregnable fort, and protected with such twelve Apostles. It was as I take it the yeer 1629. when that ever renownedHollander(whom like unto ourDraketheSpaniardsto this day fear and tremble at, calling himPie de Palo, that is, wooden leg) waited at the Cape ofSt. Anthonyfor theSpanishfleet ofNova Hispania; which according to his expectation coming, he manly set upon it, saluting and welcoming the great treasure in it with a full side of roaring Ordnance; the sound was more dolefull then joyfull and welcome to theSpaniards, who thought it safer sleeping in a whole skinne, then to be unquieted by fighting, and with the sight of torne and mangled bodies, byMarshis furious and fiery balls, and so called a Councell of warre to resolve what they should doe to save the Kings great treasure which was intrusted to them in those ships. The result of the Councell was to flie and with some discharging of their Ordinance to defend themselves, untill they could put into a river in the Island ofCuba, not far fromHavanacalledMatanzos. There were in that fleet ofSpainemany gallants and Gentlemen, and two Judges of the Chancery ofMexico, which were that yeer sent toMadridas guilty in the mutiny before mentioned, there was in it of my acquaintance a Dominican Frier, named FrierJacintho de Hozes, who had been sent to those parts to visit all the Dominican Cloisters ofNew-Spaine, and had got of bribes at least eight thousand duckats (as I was informed the yeer after by a Frier his companion, whom he sent fromHavanatoGuatemalato make knowne to his friends his losse of all that hee had got, and to beg a new contribution to helpe him home) there was also in that fleetDon Martin de Carillo; who was the Inquisitor and Commissioner to judge the Delinquents in the fore-mentioned mutiny ofMexico, who was thought to have got twenty thousand duckats cleer; besides these a Bishop, and many rich Merchants, all under the command ofDon Juan de Guzman y TorresAdmirall to all the fleet. They all fled for their lives and goods; but the gallantHollanderschased them. TheSpaniardsthinking theHollanderswould not venture up the river after them, put intoMatanzos; but soone after they had entred, they found the river too shallow for their heavy and great bellied Galeons, and so run them up on ground; which done, the better and richer sort escaped to land, endeavouring to escape with what wealth they could; some got out Cabinets, some bags; which theHollandersperceiving came upon them with bullet messengers, which soone overtooke and stopt their flying treasures. Some few Cabinets were hid, all the rest became that day the gallantPie de Paloor the wooden legd Captaines prize for the mighty States ofHolland. The FrierHozeswas got into a boat with his Cabinet under his habit, which had in it nothing but chaines of gold, diamonds, Pearles and pretious stones; and halfe a dozenHollandersleapt into the boat after him, and snatched it from him, as his owne friend and companion related after to us inGuatemala. Don Juan de Guzman y Torresthe Admirall when he came toSpainewas imprisoned, lost his wits for a while, and after was beheaded. Thus in the sight of impregnableHavanaand of those 12 brazen Apostles, wasHollandglorious and made rich with a seven million prize.