But before I end this Chapter, I may not forget the chiefest of all the Islands of this new world, which is calledHispaniola, & formerly by the nativesHatie, which lamenteth the losse of at least three millions ofIndiansmurthered by her new Masters ofSpaine. This Island is the biggest that as yet is discovered in al the world; it is in compasse about 1500. miles, and enjoyeth a temperate aire, a fertill soile, rich mines; and trades much in Ambar, Sugar, Ginger, Hides, and Wax. It is reported for certaine that here in twenty daies herbes will ripen and roots also and be fit to be eaten, which is a strong argument of the exact temperature of the aire. It yeeldeth in nothing toCuba, but excelleth it in three things especially; first in the finenesse of the gold, which is here more pure and unmixed; secondly, in the increase of the Sugar, one Sugar Cane here filling twenty and sometimes thirty measures; and thirdly, in the goodnesse of the soile for tillage, the corne here yeelding an hundred fold. This fertility is thought to be caused by four great rivers, which water and enrich all the four quarters of the Island; all four doe spring from one only mountaine, which standeth in the very midst and center of the Country,Junarunning to the East,Artihinnacusto the West,Jacchusto the North, andNaibusto the South.
This Countrey is so replenished with Swine and Cattell, that they become wild among the woods and Mountaines, so that the ships that saile by this Island, and want provision, goe here a shore where it is little inhabited and kill of Cattell, wild swine and bores, till they have made up a plentifull provision. Much of this Countrey is not inhabited, by reason that theIndiansare quite consumed. The chief places in it are first St.Domingo, where there is aSpanishPresident and Chancery with six Judges and the other officers belonging to it, and it is the Seat of an Archbishop, who though hee enjoy not so much yeerly rent and revenues as other Archbishops, especially they ofMexicoandLima; yet hee hath an honour above all the rest, for that hee is the primate of all theIndia's, this Island having been conquered before the other parts, and so bearing antiquity above them all. There are also other rich Townes of trading, asSta. Isabella, S. Thome, S. John, Maragna, andPorto. And thus hath my pen run over Sea and Land, Islands and most of the Continent that is subject to theSpaniardsto shew thee, my Reader, the state ofAmericaat this time. It is calledAmericabecauseAmericus Vespusiusfirst discovered it; though afterwardsColumbusgave us the first light to discern these Countries both by example and directions. Besides the factions spoken of before between the NativeSpaniardsand those that come fromSpain, there is yet further in most parts of it, but especially inPerua deadly faction and mortall hatred between theBiscainsand theSpaniardsofCastileandEstremadura, which hath much shaken the quiet state of it, and threatned it with rebellion and destruction.
There are in allAmericafoure Archbishopricks, which areSto. Domingo, Mexico, Lima, andSta. Fee, and above thirty inferiour Bishops. The politick Administration of Justice is chiefly committed to the two Viceroyes residing atLimaandMexico, and with subordination unto them unto other Presidents, Governours, and high Justices, calledAlcaldes Majores; except it be the President ofGuatemala, and ofSanto Domingo, who are as absolute in power as the Viceroyes, and have under them Governours, and high Justices, and are no wayes subordinate to the former Viceroyes, but onely unto the Court and Councell ofSpain.
Having now gone roundAmericawith a brief and superficiall description of it, my desire is to shew unto my Reader what parts of it I travailed through, and did abide in, observing more particularly the state, condition, strength, and Commodities of those Countries which lie Southward fromMexico. It is further my desire, nay the chief ground of this my History, that whilst my Country doth here observe anEnglishman, becomeAmerican, travailing many thousand miles there, as may bee noted from St.John de UlhuatoMexico, and from thence Southward toPanama, and from thence Northward againe toCarthagena, and toHavana, Gods goodnesse may bee admired, and his providence extolled who suffered not the meanest and unworthiest of all his Creatures to perish in such unknowne Countries; to be swalled by North or South Sea, where shipwracks were often feared; to bee lost in Wildernesses where no tongue could give directions; to bee devoured by Wolves, Lions, Tigers, or Crocodiles, which there so much abound; to fall from steepy rocks and mountaines, which seeme to dwell in the aereall Region, and threaten with fearefull spectacles of deep and profound precipices, a horrid and inevitable death to those that climbe up to them; to bee eaten up by the greedy Earth which there doth often quake and tremble, and hath sometimes opened her mouth to draw in Townes and Cities; to bee stricken with those fiery darts of Heaven and thunderbolts which in winter season threaten the Rockes and Cedars; to bee inchanted by Satans Instruments, Witches and Sorcerers, who there as on their own ground play their prankes more then in the parts of Christendome; to be quite blinded withRomishErrors and Superstitions, which have double blinded the purblind heathenish Idolaters; to bee wedded to the pleasuresand licentiousnesse, which doe there allure; to bee glutted with the plenty and dainties of fish, flesh, fowles, and fruits, which doe there entice; to bee puffed up with the spirit of pride and powerfull command and authority over the poorIndians, which doth there provoke; to bee tied with the Cords of vanity and ambition, which there are strong; and finally to be glewed in heart, and affection to the drosse of gold, silver, Pearls, and Jewels, whose plenty there doth bind, blind, captivate and enslave the soule. Oh I say, let the Lords great goodnesse and wonderfull providence bee observed who suffered not anEnglishstranger in all these dangers to miscarry, but was a guide unto him there in all his travailes, discovered unto him as to the espies inCanaan, and as toJosephinEgyptthe provision, wealth and riches of that world, and safely guided him back to relate toEngland, the truth of what no otherEnglisheye did ever yet behold. From the moneth ofOctoberuntillFebruaryI did abide with my friends, and companions the Fryers under the command of FryerCalvoin that house of recreation called St.Jacintho, and from thence injoyed the sight of all the Townes and of what else was worth the seeing aboutMexico. But the time I was there, I was carefull to informe myself of the state ofPhilippinas, whither my first purposes had drawne me fromSpain. It was my fortune to light upon a Fryer and an acquaintance of some of my friends, who was that yeer newly come fromManilawhither I was going; who wished mee and some other of my friends as wee tendred our soules good never to goe to those parts, which were but snares and trap-dores to let downe to hell, where occasions and temptations to sinne were daily, many in number, mighty in strength, and to get out of them,labor & opus, hard and difficult. And that himself, had not he by stealth gotten away (and that to save his soul) certainly he had never come from thence; who had often upon his knees begged leave of his superiours to returne toSpain, and could not obtaine it. Many particulars wee could not get from him, nor the reasons of his coming away; Onely hee would often say that the Fryers that live there are devils in private and in those retired places where they live among theIndiansto instruct and teach them; and yet in publick before their superiours and the rest of Fryers they must appeare Saints, they must put on the cloak of hypocrisie to cover their inward devilishnesse, they must bee cloathed with sheeps skins though within they beelupi rapaces, ravenous Wolves, ravening after their neighbours Wives, and ravening after their neighbours wealth; and yet with all this unpreparednesse, with this outward, seeming and frothy sanctity, and inward hellishnesse and deep rooted worldlinesse and covetousnesse, when the Superiours command and please to send them, they must goe in a disguised manner toJapanorChinato convert to Christianity those people though with perill and danger of their lives. Many such like discourses wee got out of this Fryer; and that if wee went to live there, we must bee subject to the penalties of many Excommunications for triviall toyes and trifles, which the Superiours doe lay upon the Consciences of their poore Subjects, who may as soone strive against the common course of nature not to see with their eyes, nor hear with their eares, nor speake with their tongues, as to observe all those things which against sense, reason and nature with grievous censures and Excommunications are charged and fastened upon them. Hee told us further of some Fryers that had despaired under those rigorous courses, and hanged themselves, not being able to beare the burden of an afflicted and tormented Conscience; and of others that had been hanged, some for murthering of their rigid and cruell Superiours; and some that had beene found in the morning hanging with their queanes at the Cloister gates, having beene found together in the night, and so murthered and hanged up either by the true Husband, or by some other who bare affection to the woman. These things seemed to us very strange, and wee perceived that all was not gold that glistred, nor true zeal of soules that carried so many fromSpainto those parts; or if in some there were at first a better and truer zeale then in others, when they came toPhilippinas, and among those strong temptations, wee found that their zeale was soone quenched. This reason moved mee and three more of my friends to relent in our purposes of leaving ofAmerica, and going any further, for wee had learned thatmaxime, qui amat periculum, peribit inco; and,qui tangit picem, inquinabitur abea; He that loveth the danger, shall fall and perish in it; and hee that toucheth pitch shall bee smeared by it. Wherefore wee communed privately with our selves, what course wee might take, how wee might that yeer return back toSpain, or where wee might abide, if wee returned not toSpain. For weeknew, if our SuperiourCalvoshould understand of our purposes to goe no further, he would lay upon us an Excommunication to follow him, nay and that hee would secure us in a Cloister prison untill the day and time of our departure fromMexico. Our resolutions wee made a secret of our hearts; yet could not I but impart it to one more speciall and intimate friend of mine, who was anIrishFryer, namedThomas de Leon, whom I perceived a little troubled with so long a journey as was at hand, and found often wishing hee had never come fromSpain; and as soon as I had acquainted him with what I meant to doe, hee rejoyced and promised to stay with mee. The time was short which wee had to dispose of our selves; but in that time wee addressed our selves to someMexicanFryers and made knowne unto them, that if our SuperiourCalvowould give us leave, wee would willingly stay inMexicoor in any Cloister thereabouts, untill wee could better fit our selves to returne toSpainagaine. But they being natives and borne in that Countrey discovered presently unto us that inveterate spight and hatred which they bare to such as came fromSpain; they told us plainly that they and trueSpaniardsborn did never agree, and that they knew their Superiors would bee unwilling to admit of us; yet furthermore they informed us that they thought we might be entertained in the Province ofGuaxaca, where half the Fryers were ofSpainand half Criolians and Natives; but in case wee should not speed there, they would warrant us we should be welcome to the Province ofGuatemala, where almost all the Fryers were ofSpain, and did keep under such as were Natives born in that Country. It did a little trouble us to consider thatGuatemalawas three hundred leagues off, and that we were ignorant of theMexicantongue, and unprovided of mony and horses for so long a journey. But yet we consideredPhilippinasto be further, and no hopes there of returning ever again to Christendome; wherefore we resolved to rely upon Gods providence onely, and to venture upon a three hundred leagues journey with what smal means we had, and to sell what Books and small trifles we had to make as much money as might buy each of us a horse. But while we were thus preparing our selves secretly forGuatemalawee were affrighted and disheartned with what in the like case to ours happened. A Fryer of our company named FryerPeter Borrallo, without acquainting us or any other of his friends with what he intended, made a secret escape from us, and (as after we were informed) took his way alone toGuatemala. This so incensed our SuperiorCalvo, that after great search and enquiry after him, he betook himself to the Viceroy begging his assistance and Proclamation, in the publick Market place, for the better finding out his lost sheep, and alleadging that none ought to hide or privily to harbour any Fryer that had been sent fromSpaintoPhilippinasto preach there the Gospell, for that the foresaid Fryers were sent by the King ofSpain, whose bread they had eate, and at whose charges they had been brought fromSpaintoMexico, and at the same Kings charges ought to bee carried fromMexicotoPhilippinas; and therefore if any Fryer now in the half-way should recant of his purpose of going toPhilippinas, and should by flight escape from his Superiour and the rest of his company, the same ought to be punished as guilty of defrauding the Kings charges. This reason ofCalvobeing a politicke and state reason prevailed so farre with the Viceroy, that immediately hee commanded a Proclamation to bee made against whosoever should know of the saidPeter Borralloand should not produce him to his Highnesse, or should harbour him or any other Fryer belonging toPhilippinasfrom that time forward until the ships were departed fromAcapulco; and that whosoever should trespasse against this Proclamation, should suffer imprisonment at his Highnesse his will and and pleasure, and the penalty of five hundred Duckats to bee paid in at the Kings Exchequer. With this ProclamationCalvobegan to insult over us, and to tell us, wee were the Kings slaves under his conduct, and that if any of us durst to leave him (for hee was jealous of most of us) hee doubted not but with the Viceroy his assistance and Proclamation he should find both us andPeter Borralloout to our further shame and confusion. This did very much trouble us, and made myIrishfriendThomas de Leonhis heart to faint, and his courage to relent, and utterly to renounce before mee his former purposes of staying and hiding himselfe; yet hee protested to mee, if I was still of the same minde, hee would not discover mee; but seeing his weaknesse, I durst not trust him, but made as if I were of his minde. Thus I betooke my self to the other three of my friends (of whom one wasAntonio Melendezthat had beene the first cause of my comming fromSpain) whom I found much troubled, doubtfull and wavering what course to take.
They considered if wee should flie, what a shame it would be to us to be taken and brought back toMexicoas prisoners, and forcedly against our wills to be shipped toPhilippinas; they considered further if they went, what a slavish and uncomfortable life they should live inPhilippinas, without any hopes of ever returning again to Christendom; yet further they looked upon the Viceroy his Proclamation, and thought it hard to breake through the opposition and authority of so great a man; and lastly in the Proclamation they beheld the estimation thatCalvohad of them, as of slaves and fugitives to be cried in a publike Market place. But after all these serious thoughts our only comfort was thatPeter Borallowas safely escaped, and (as we were informed) had been met farre fromMexicotravailing alone towardsGuatemala. And we thought, why might not we escape as well as he. Then I told them that my resolution was to stay, though alone I returned either toSpaine, or tooke my journey toGuatemala; the rest were glad to see mee resolute, and gave their hands that they would venture as much as I should. Then we set upon the time when we should take our flight, and agreed that every one should have a Horse in readinesse inMexico, and that the night before the rest of our company should depart fromMexicotowardsAcapulcoto take shipping, we should by two and two in the evening leaveSt. Jacintho, and meet inMexicowhere our Horses stood, and from thence set out and travaile all the night, continuing our journey so the first two or three nights and resting in the day time, untill we were some twenty or thirty leagues fromMexico. For we thought the next morningCalvoawaking and missing us would not stop the journey of the rest of his company for our sakes, to search and inquire after us; or if he did, it would be but for one day or two at the most, till he had inquired for us inMexico, or a dayes journey in some of the common or beaten rodes ofMexico, where we would be sure he should not heare of us; for we also agreed to travail out of any common or knowne rode for the first two or three nights. This resolution was by us as well performed and carried on, as it had been agreed upon, though some had been fearfull that a counsell betwixt foure could never be kept secret, nor such a long journey as of nine hundred miles be compassed with such small means of money as was among us, for the maintenance of our selves and Horses; for after our Horses were bought, we made a common purse, and appointed one to be the purse-bearer, & found that amongst us all there were but twenty duckats, which in that rich and plentifull country was not much more then here twentyEnglishshillings, which seemed to us but as a morning dew, which would soone be spent in provender only for our Horses; yet we resolved to goe on, relying more upon the providence of God, then upon any earthly meanes; and indeed this proved to us a far better support then all the drosse of gold and silver could have done; and we reckoned that after we had travailed fourty leagues fromMexico, and entred without feare into the rode, we had for our twenty duckats neer fourty now in our common purse. The reason was, for that most commonly we went either to Friers Cloisters who knew us not, or to rich farmes ofSpaniardswho thought nothing too good for us, and would not onely entertaine us stately, but at our departure would give us money for one or two daies journey. All our feare was to get safely out ofMexico, for wee had been informed thatCalvohad obtained from the Viceroy officers to watch in the chiefest rodes both day and night untill he had departed with his Traine of Friers toAcapulco.
And for all the Viceroy his Proclamation we got a true and trustie friend, who offered to guide us out ofMexicoby such a way as we needed not to feare any would watch for us. So with our friend and a map about us to guide us after he had left us in the morning, we cheerfully set out ofMexicoabout ten of the clock at night, about the middle ofFebruary, and meeting no body aboutGuadalupewhich was the way wee went out (though the contrary way toGuatemala, which on purpose we followed for feare the true way should be beset) we comfortably travailed all that night, till in the morning we came to a little Town ofIndians, where we began to spend of our small stock, calling upon theIndiansfor a Turkey and Capon to break our fast with our friend and guide before he returned toMexico. Breakefast being ended we took our leaves of him, and went to rest, that we might be more able to performe the next nights journey, which was to Crosse the Countrey towardsAtlisco, which is in a valley of twenty miles about at least, and doth give it the name of the valley ofAtlixcoand is a valley much mentioned in all those parts, for the exceeding great plenty of wheat that is there reaped every yeer, and is the chief sustenance and reliefe ofMexicoand all the Townes about. In thisValley are many rich Townes ofSpaniardsandIndians; but we shunned to enter into them, and went from farme to farme out of the high-waies, where we found good entertainment of those rich Farmers and Yeomen, who bare such respect unto the Preists, that truely they thought themselves happy with our company. Here we began to shake off all fear, and no more like Bats and Owles fly in the night, but that we might with more pleasure enjoy the prospect of that valley, and of the rest of the Countrey we travailed by day; yet still crossing the Countrey, we went from thence towards another valley called the valley ofSt. Pablo, orPaulsvalley, which though it be not as big as the valley ofAtlisco, yet is held to be a richer valley; for here they enjoy a double harvest of wheat every yeer. The first seed they sow is watered, and growes with the common season raine; and the second seed which they sow in summer as soone as their first harvest is in, when the season of raine is past, they water with many Springs which fall into that Valley from the mountaines which round beset it, and let in the water among their wheat at their pleasure, and take it away when they see fit. Here live Yeomen upon nothing but their farms, who are judged to worth some twenty thousand, some thirty thousand, some fourty thousand duckats. In this valley we chanced to light upon one farme where the Yeoman was country-man to my friendAntonio Melendez, borne inSegoviainSpaine, who for his sake kept us three daies and nights with him. His table was as well furnished as the table of a Knight might be, his side board full of silver boules and cups, and plates instead of trenchers; he spared no dainties which might welcome us to his table, no perfumes which might us delight in our chambers, no musick (which his daughters were brought up to) which might with more pleasure help to passe away the time. To himAntonio Melendezmade known our journey towardsGuatemala; and from him we received directions which way to steere our course untill we might be thoroughly free from feare and danger; here we began to see the great providence of God, who had brought us being strangers to such a friends house, who not onely welcomed us to him, but when we departed gave us a guide for a whole day, and bestowed upon us twenty duckats to helpe to bear our charges. From this valley wee wheeled about toTasco, a Towne of some five hundred Inhabitants which enjoyeth great commerce with the Country about by reason of the great store of Cotton-wool which is there. And here we were very well entertained by a Franciscan Frier, who being ofSpainemade the more of us, knowing we came from thence. Here we got into the rode ofGuaxaca, and went toChautla, which also aboundeth with Cotton-wool, but in it we found no entertainment but what our owne purses would afford us. Next to this place is a great Town calledZumpango, which doth consist of at least eight hundred Inhabitants, many of them very rich bothIndiansandSpaniards. Their commodities are chiefly Cotton-wooll, and Sugar, and Cochinil. But beyond this Town are the mountaines calledla Misteca, which abound with many rich and great Townes, and doe trade with the best silke that is in all that Country. Here is also great store of Wax and Hony; andIndianslive there who traffique toMexicoand about the Countrey with twenty or thirty mules of their own, chopping and changing, buying and selling commodities, and some of them are thought to be worth ten, or twelve, or fifteen thousand duckats, which is much for anIndianto get among theSpaniards, who thinke all the riches ofAmericalittle enough for themselves. From these mountaines ofMistecatoGuaxacawe saw little observable, only Townes of two or three hundred inhabitants; rich Churches, well built, and better furnished within with lampes, candlesticks, crownes of silver for the severall statues of Saints; and all the way wee did observe a very fruitfull soil for bothIndianandSpanishwheat, much Sugar, much Cotton-wool, Hony, and here and there some Cochinil, and of Plantins, and other sweet and luscious fruit great store; but above all great abundance of cattel, whose Hides are one of the greatest commodities that from those parts are sent toSpaine. Some reported that aboutMistecaformerly much gold had been found, and theIndianswere wont to use it much, though now they will not be knowne of any, lest the greedinesse of theSpaniardsbring them to misery and destruction, as it hath their neighbours about them. Also it is reported for certaine that there are Mines of silver, though as yet theSpaniardshave not found them.
There are many Mines of Iron which theSpaniardswill not busie themselves in digging, because they have it cheaper fromSpain; from hence wee came to the City ofGuaxaca, which is a Bishops Seat, though not very bigge, yet a faire and beautifull Cityto behold. It standeth fourescore leagues fromMexicoin a pleasant valley from whenceCortezwas namedMarques del Valle, the Marquesse of the Valley. This City, as all the rest ofAmerica, except the Sea Towns, lyeth open without walls, Bulwarkes, Forts, Towers, or any Castle, Ordnance or Ammunition to defend it. It may consist of at the most two thousand Inhabitants, and are governed by aSpanishHigh Justice calledAlcalde Major, whose power reacheth over all the Valley, and beyond it as farre asNixapa, and almost toTecoantepeque, a Sea Towne uponMar del Zur. The Valley is of at least fifteen miles in length, and ten in breadth, where runneth in the midst a goodly River yeelding great store of fish. The Valley is full of Sheep and other Cattell, which yeeld much Wooll to the Clothiers of the City ofAngels, store of Hides to the Merchants ofSpain, and great provision of flesh to the City ofGuaxaca, and to all the Townes about, which are exceeding rich, and doe maintaine many Cloisters of Fryers, and Churches with stately furniture belonging unto them. But what doth make the Valley ofGuaxacato bee mentioned farre and neer, are the good horses which are bred in it, and esteemed to bee the best of all the Country. In this Valley also are some farmes of Sugar, and great store of fruits, which two sorts meeting together have cried up the City ofGuaxacafor the best Conserves and Preserves that are made inAmerica. In the City there are some six Cloisters of Nuns and Fryers, all of them exceeding rich; but above all is the Cloister of the Dominican Fryers, whose Church treasure is worth two or three Millions; and the building of it the fairest and strongest in all those parts, the walls are of stone so broad, that a part of them being upon finishing when I was there I saw Carts goe upon them, with stone and other materials. Here are also two Cloisters of Nuns, which are talked of far and neer not for their religious practices, but for their skill in making two drinkes which are used in those parts, the one calledChocolatte(whereof I shall speake heereafter) and the otherAtolle, which is like unto ourAlmondMilk, but much thicker, and is made of the juyce of the yongMaizorIndianwheat, which they so confection with spices, musk, and sugar, that it is not onely admirable in the sweetnesse of the smell, but much more nourishing and comforting the stomack. This is not a Commoditie that can bee transported from thence, but is to be drunk there where it is made. But the other,Chocolatte, is made up in Boxes, and sent not onely toMexicoand the parts thereabouts, but much of it is yeerly transported intoSpain. This City ofGuaxacais the richer by reason of the safety they enjoy for the carriage of their Commodities to and from the port of St.John de Ulhuaby the great RiverAlvaradowhich runneth not far from it; and although the Barkes come not to the City ofGuaxaca, yet they come up to theZapotecas, and to St.Ildefonso, which is not farre fromGuaxaca. And the carelessenesse of theSpaniardshere is to be wondred at, that all along this River which runneth up into the heart of their Country, they have built as yet no Castles, Towers, or watch-houses, or planted any Ordinance, trusting onely in this, that great ships cannot come up, as if Frigots or smaller Barks, such as they themselves use, may not bee made to annoy them. But ofGuaxacaI shall say no more, but conclude that it is of so temperate an aire, so abounding in fruits, and all provision requisite for mans life, so commodiously situated between the North and South Sea, having on the North side St.John de Ulhua, and on the SouthTecoantepequea small and unfortified harbour, that no place I so much desired to live in whilest I was in those parts as inGuaxaca, which certainly I had attempted as I travailed by it, had I not understood that the Criolian or Native Fryers were many and as deadly enemies unto those that came fromSpainas were theMexicans. And this their spight and malice they shewed whilest wee were there, to an ancient and grave old Fryer Master in Divinity, who living had been for learning the Oracle of those parts. This old man died when I was there, and because when hee lived they could pick no hole in his Coat, being dead they searched his chamber, and finding in a Coffer some moneys which hee had not made knowne to his Superiour when living (which they would reduce to a sinne against his professed poverty, called Propriety, and subject to the censure of Excommunication) they reported that hee had died excommunicated, and might not injoy their Christian buriall in the Church or Cloister, and so ignominiously buried their old Divine, and with him his Credit and reputation in a grave made in one of their Gardens. A thing much talked on as scandalous to all the City and Country, which they salved with saying hee was excommunicated; but the truth was, he was ofSpaine, and therefore at his death theywould shew their spight unto him. For certainly they could not doe it for the sinne of Propriety which by him had been committed in his life; and to them all may be well said what our Saviour said to the Jewes bringing to him a woman found in adultery to bee stoned, Whosoever of you is without sinne, let him cast the first stone; for all of them, yea even the best Fryers that live inAmerica, are some way or other, much or lesse guilty of the sinne of Propriety which they professe and vow against. With this which wee saw with our eyes, besides what with our eares wee had heard of discords and factions amongst them, wee thoughtGuaxacawas no place for us to live in; so after three dales we made haste out of it, and departed towardsChiapa, which lyeth three hundred miles from thence. And for our comfort in our further travailing we were informed inGuaxaca, that in most Towns of the Rode through that country, theIndianshad an order from the High Justice to give unto Fryers travailing that way either horse to ride on, or to carry their carriages and provision of food freely without mony, if they had none, so that at their departure they should write it down in the town booke what they had spent, not abiding above foure and twenty houres in the Town; which expences of travailers theIndiansafterwards at the yeers end of their ordinary Justice and Officers were to give an account of with carrying their Towne book unto theSpanishjustice to whom they belonged, and by so doing these expences were allowed of to bee discharged by the common Towne Purse or Treasure, for the which a common plot of ground was alloted to bee yeerly sowen with wheat orMaiz. With this charitable relief and help of the Townes wee conceived better of the rest of our long journey, and hoped to compasse it with more ease. And so joyfully we went on, and the first place where wee made triall of this order was at a great Town calledAntiquera, where wee freely called for our fowles and what other provision we saw in the Town, fed heartily on them, and the next day when we were to pay and to depart, wee called for the Town book, subscribed our hands to what wee had spent ourselves and horses, and went our way, praising the discretion of the Justices of that Country, who had setled a course so easy and comfortable for us, especially who had but shallow purses for our long journy. Yet we found in some small Towns that theIndianswere unwilling, and (as they alleadged) unable to extend this Charity to us, being foure in company, and bringing with us the charge likewise of foure horses, which made us sometimes make the longer journey that wee might reach unto some great and rich Towne. The next toAntiquerain that Rode isNixapa, which is of at the least eight hundred Inhabitans,SpaniardsandIndians, standing upon the side of a River, which wee were informed was an arme of the great RiverAlvarado. In this Town is a very rich Cloister of Dominican Fryers, where we were well entertained; & in it there is a picture of our Lady, which superstitiously they fancy to have wrought miracles, and is made a pilgrimage from far and neere, and consequently hath great riches and Lampes belonging unto it. This is counted absolutely one of the wealthiest places of all the Countrey ofGuaxaca; for here is made much Indigo, Sugar,Cochinill; and here grow many trees ofCacaoandAchiotte, whereof is made theChocolatte, and is a commodity of much trading in those parts, though ourEnglishandHollandersmake little of it when they take a prize of it at Sea, as not knowing the secret virtue and quallity of it for the good of the stomack. From hence we went toAguatulcoandCapalita, also great Towns standing upon a plain Country full of Sheep and Cattell, abounding with excellent fruits, especiallyPinesandSandia's, which are as big as Pumpions, and so waterish that they even melt like snow in the mouth, & cool the heat which there is great, by reason it is a low and Marsh kind of ground, lying neer the South Sea. The next chief Town and most considerable afterCapalitaisTecoantepeque; this is a Sea Town uponMar del Zur, and a harbour for small vessels, such as Trade from those parts toAcapulcoandMexico, and toRealejoandGuatemala, and sometimes toPanama. Here upon some occasions Ships which come fromPerutoAcapulcodoe call in. It is a port no farther safe, then that noEnglishorHollandShips doe come thereabouts, which if they did, they would there find no resistance, but from thence would finde an open and easie Rode over all the Countrey. Upon all this South Sea side fromAcapulcotoPanama, which is above two thousand miles by land there is no open harbour, but this forGuaxaca, andLa TrinidadforGuatemala, andRealejoforNicaragua, andGolfo de Salinasfor small vessels inCosta Rica, and all these unprovided of Ordnance and Ammunition, all open dores to let in any Nation that would take the pains to surroundthe World to get a treasure. This port ofTecoantepequeis the chiefe for fishing in all that Countrey; wee met here in the wayes sometimes with fifty, sometimes with a hundred mules together laden with nothing but salt fish forGuaxaca, City of theAngelsandMexico. There are some very rich Merchants dwell in it, who trade withMexico, PeruandPhilippinas, sending their small vessels out from Port to Port, which come home richly laden with the Commodities of all the Southerne or Easterne parts. From hence toGuatemalathere is a plaine Rode along the Coast of the South Sea, passing through the Provinces ofSoconuzcoandSuchutepeques; but wee aiming atChiapatooke our journey over the high Rocks and Mountaines calledQuelenes, travailing first fromTecoantepequetoEstepeque, and from thence through a desert of two dayes journey, where wee were faine to lodge one night by a spring of water upon the bare ground in open wide fields, where neither Town nor house is to bee seene, yet thatcht lodges are purposely made for travailers. This plain lyeth so open to the Sea, that the wind from thence blow so strongly and violently that travailers are scarce able to sit their horses and mules; which is the reason no people inhabit there, because the windes teare their houses, and the least fire that there breaks out, doth a great deale of mischief. This plaine yet is full of Cattell, and Horses and Mares, some wild, some tame; and through this windy Champaigne Country with much adoe we travailed; though my self thought I should even there end my daies, for the second day being to reach to a Towne, and my three friends riding before, thinking that I followed them, evening now drawing on they made more hast to find the Town. But in the meane while my horse refused to goe any further, threatning to lie downe if I put him to more then hee was able. I knew the towne could not be far, and so I lighted, thinking to walke and lead my horse, who also refused to bee led, and so lay downe. With this a troop of thoughts beset mee, and to none I could give a flat answer. I thought if I should goe on foot to finde out the Towne and my company and leave my horse there sadled, I might both lose my selfe, and my horse and saddle; and if I should find the Towne and come in the morning for my horse, the plain was so wide and spatious, that I might seeke long enough, and neither finde him, nor know the place where I left him, for there was nothing neere to marke the place, nor where to hide the saddle, neither hedge, tree, shrub, within a mile on any side. Wherefore I considered my best course would bee to take up my lodging in the wide and open wildernesse with my horse, and to watch him lest hee should wander and stray away, untill the morning or untill my friends might send from the towne to see what was become of mee; which they did not that night, thinking I had taken my way to another Town not far from thence, whither they sent in the morning to enquire for me. I looked about therefore for a commodious place to rest in, but found no choice of lodgings, everywhere I found a bed ready for mee, which was the bare ground; a bolster onely or pillow I wanted for my head, and seeing no bank did kindly offer it selfe to ease a lost stranger, and pilgrime, I unsadled my weary Jade, and with my saddle fitted my head in stead of a pillow. Thus without a supper I went to bed in my Mothers owne bosome, not a little comforted to see my tired horse pluck up his spirits, and make much of his supper, which there was ready for him, of short, dry and withered grasse, upon which hee fed with a greedy and hungry stomack, promising mee by his feeding that the next day he would performe a journey of at least thirty or forty miles. The poor Beast fed apace, my careful eye watched him for at least an houre, when upon a suddain I heard such an hideous noise of howling, barking, and crying, as if a whole Army of dogs were come into the wildernesse, and howled for want of a prey of some dead horse or mule. At first the noise seemed to be a pretty way off from mee; but the more I hearkened unto it, the nigher it came unto mee, and I perceived it was not of dogs by some intermixt shriekings as of Christians, which I observed in it. An observation too sad for alone man without any helpe or comfort in a wildernesse, which made my haire to stand upright, my heart to pant, my body to bee covered with a fearfull sweat as of death. I expected nothing else, not knowing from whence the noise proceeded; sometimes I thought of Witches, sometimes of devils, sometimes ofIndiansturned into the shape of beasts, (which amongst some hath beene used) sometimes of wild and savage beasts, and from all these thoughts I promised my self nothing but sure death, for the which I prepared my selfe recommending my soule to the Lord, whilst I expected my body should bee a prey to cruell and mercilesse beasts; orsome instruments of that roaring Lion who in the Apostle goeth about seeking whom he may devoure. I thought I could not any waies prevaile by flying or running away, but rather might that way runne my selfe into the jawes of death; to hide there was no place, to lie still I thought was safest, for if they were wild beasts, they might follow their course another way from mee, and so I might escape. Which truly proved my safest course, for while I lay sweating and panting, judging every cry, every howling and shrieking an alarm to my death, being in this agony and fearfull conflict till about midnight, on a suddain the noise ceased, sleep (though but the shadow of death) seized upon my wearied body, and forsook me not, til the mornings glorious lamp shining before my slumbering eies and driving away deaths shadow greeted me with life & safety. When I awaked, my soul did magnifie the Lord for my deliverance from that nights danger, I looked about & saw my horse also neer the place where I had left him, I sadled him presently with desire to leave that wildernesse and to find out my company, and to impart unto them what that night had happened unto mee; I had not rid above a mile, when I came to a brook of water, where were two waies, the one straight forward along the desart, where I could discover no Towne, nor houses, nor trees in a prospect of five or six miles at least; the other way was on the left hand, and that way some two or three miles off I saw a wood of trees, I imagined there might be the Towne; I followed that way, and within a quarter of a mile my Horse beganne to complaine of his poore provender the night before, and to slight me for it; I was fain to light and lead him; and thus againe discouraged with my Horse, and discomforted for the uncertainty of my way, looking about I spied a thatcht house on the one side of the way, and one on Horse-back, who came riding to mee; it was anIndianbelonging to that house which was the farme of a richIndian, and Governour of the next Towne, of whom I asked how farre it was to the Town ofEstepeque, he shewed me the trees, and told me that a little beyond them it stood, and that I should not see it untill I came unto it. With this I got up againe and spurred my sullen jade, untill I reached unto the trees, where he was at a stand and would goe no further. Then I unsadled him, and hid my saddle under some low shrubs, and leaving my horse (whom I feared not that any would steale him) I walked unto the Towne which was not above halfe a mile from thence, where I found my three friends were waiting for me, and grieved for the losse of me, had sent to another Towne to enquire for me; it was the least thought they had that I had been a lodger in the desart. When I related unto them and to theIndiansthe noise and howling that I had heard, theIndiansanswered me that that was common musick to them almost every night, & that they were Wolves and Tigres which they feared not, but did often meet them and with a sticke or hollowing did scare them away, and that they were onely ravenous for their Fowles, Colts, Calves or Kids. After a little discourse I returned with anIndianto seeke my Horse and saddle, and in that Towne I sould my weariedMexicanbeast, and hired another toEcatepequewhither we went all four friends again in company. Where note that in this plain and champaigne country ofTecoantepequeare five rich and pleasant Townes full of fruits and provision of victuall, all ending inTepeque, to wit,Tecoantepeque, Estepeque, Ecatepeque, Sanatepeque, andTapanatepeque. Now fromEcatepequewee could discover the high mountaines ofQuelenes, which were the subject of most of our discourse toSanatepeque, and from thence toTapanatepeque. For we had been informed bySpaniardsand Travailers in the way, that they were the most dangerous mountains to travail over that were in all those parts; and that there were on the top of them some passages so narrow, and so high, and so open to the boisterous winds that came from the South-sea, which seemed to lie at the very bottom of them; and on each side of these narrow passages such deep precipices among rocks, that many times it had happened, that the wind blowing furiously had cast downe Mules laden with heavy carriages downe the rockes, and likewise Horse-men had been blown down both Horse and man. The sight of the rockes and mountaines did terrifie us, and the report of them did much affright us; so that in all this way we did conferre which way to take, whether the rode way toGuatemalawhich lieth under those mountaines along the coast by the Country ofSoconuzco, from whence (though out of our way) we might have turned toChiapa, or whether we should steer our right course toChiapaover those mountains, which we had been informed, we might safely passe over if the winds did not blow too boisterously. We resolved that when wee came toTapanatepequewe would choose our way according asthe winds did favour or threaten us, but however toChiapawe would goe, because there we had understood was the Superiour and Provinciall or all the Dominicans of those parts, (to whom we ought to addresse our selves) and also because we would see that famous and much talked of Province ofChiapa. InSanatepequewee met with a Frier who gave us stately entertainment, and from thence gave usIndiansto guide us toTapanatepeque, and a letter to the chiefe of the Towne (which also was at his command) to give us Mules to carry us, andIndiansto guide us up the mountaines. Here the rest of our Horses also failed us, but their wearinesse was no hinderance to us, for theIndianswere willing to give us as much or more then they had cost us, because they were trueMexicanbreed, and all the way we went toChiapaand through that country toGuatemalathe Towns were to provide us of Mules for nothing. We came toTapanatepeque(which standeth at the bottome and foot ofQuelenes) on Saturday night, and with the letter we carried were very much welcomed and entertained well by theIndians.
This Towne is one of the sweetest and pleasantest of any we had seen fromGuaxacathither, and it seems God hath replenished it with all sorts of comforts which Travailers may need to ascend up those dangerous and steepy rockes. Here is great plenty of cattel for flesh, and richIndianswhich have farmes, called thereEstantia's, in some a thousand, in some three or four thousand head of cattell; fowles here are in abundance, fish the best store and choisest of any Towne fromMexicothither; for the Sea is hard by it, and besides there runneth by it a small river which yeelds divers sorts of fish. From the mountaines there fall so many springs of water, that with them theIndianswater at their pleasure their gardens which are stored with much herbage and sallets. The shade which defends from the heat (which there is great) is the daughter of most sweet and goodly fruit trees, and of Orange, Lemmon, Citron and Fig leaves. The Sabbath morning was so calme that we desired to make use of it, lest by longer delayes the winds should stay us, or force us to the coast ofSoconusco. But theIndiansintreated us to bee their guests at dinner, not doubting but the weather would hold, and promising us to provide us strong and lusty Mules, and provision of fruits, and fried fish, or fowles, or what our selves desired. We could not refuse this their kind offer, and so stayed dinner with them. After dinner our Mules were brought, and twoIndiansto guide us and carry our provision, which was some fried fish, and a cold rosted Capon, with some fruit as much as might suffice us for a day, for the chief ascent and danger is not above seven leagues, or one and twentyEnglishmiles, and then beyond the top of the mountaines three miles is one of the richest farms for Horses, Mules, and Cattel, in all the Countrey ofChiapa, where we knew we should be welcomed by oneDon John de Toledo, who then lived there. Though these mountaines shew themselves with severall sharp pointed heads, and are many joyned together, yet one of them is only mentioned in that Country by the Travailers, which is calledMaquilapa, over the which lieth the way toChiapa. To this high, steepy, and craggyMaquilapawe tooke our journey after dinner, and were by the proud mountaine that night well entertained, and harboured in a green plot of ground resembling a meadow, which lay as a rib of the one side of that huge and more thenPyrenianmonster. TheIndianscomforted us with the shews of faire weather, and told us that they doubted not but the next day at noone we should be atDon John de ToledohisEstancia, or farme. With this we spread our supper upon the green table-cloth, and at that first meale eat up our Capon and most of the provision of our cold fried fish, leaving only a bit for our mornings breakefast, the springs of water like Conduit-pipes, trickling downe the rockes, gave us melodious musicke to our supper; theIndiansfed merrily, and our Mules contentedly, and so the fountaine Nymphes sung us asleep till morning, which seemed to us as calme and quiet as the day before, and encouraged us hastily to snatch that bit which we had left and so up from breakefast, to say merrily, up toMaquilapa. We had not winded the mountaine upwards much above a mile, when the higher we mounted, the more we heard the wind from above whistling unto us, and forbidding us to goe any further. We were now halfe way up, and doubtfull what wee should doe, whither go forward, or returne toTapanatepequeto eat more fish, or to stay where we were a while untill the weather were more calme, which we thought might be at noone or towards evening. TheIndianstold us that about a mile further there was a fountaine of water, and a lodge made under trees on purpose for Travailers thatwere either benighted or hindred by the winds to compasse their journey up the mountaine. Thither we went with much adoe, hoping the wind would fall; but still the higher we climbed, the stronger we felt the breath orÆolus, and durst not like the people calledPsilli(of whomHerodotuswriteth) march against him, least as they in stead of a victory found a grave in the sands where they met to oppose him, so we in stead of ascending should by a furious blast be made to descend into those deep and horrid precipices, which truely threatned death, and offered themselves to be a grave unto our torne and mangled bodies. We liked the fountaine very well, and the lodge better for the harbour of trees which compassed it about. The wind kept on breathing, and we stood still fearing, till the day was so farre spent that we had no hopes of going back, or forward. Of any supper we despaired that night, who would have been glad now to have picked a bone of a Capons leg, or to have sucked a fishes head, and saw there was nothing for us, but only to feed our hungry stomackes with the remembrance of the plenty the night before. Thus gazing one upon another, and sometimes looking down to the fountaine, sometimes looking up to the trees, we perceived amongst them a Lemmon tree, full of small and very sowre green Lemmons. It was not with us as withTantaluswho could neither injoy the fruit above him, nor the waters beneath him; we could and did most greedily catch and snatch the Lemmons, which were sawce for no meate, but onely to fill an empty stomack; with them wee supped and tooke our rest. The next morning the wind was rather stronger then calmer, and we as strong the second day as the first in our purpose of staying there, and not turning our backes like Cowards. TheIndianswere also willing to stay yet one day longer; so we fell to our breakefast of Lemmons which were somewhat coole to a fasting stomack, and relished nothing the better with a draught from the cleere fountaine. And of what we left on the tree we made our dinner and supper, adding to our water what we saw theIndiansdid drinke, who had their small bags full of powder of their Maiz, of which first making cakes as dry as bisket they then grind them to powder, and when they travaile, carry with them that powder to drink with water. This wee thought might bee more nourishing to us, then Lemmons and water onely, and so for that day we bought of them halfe a bagfull of powder giving for it in our want and necessity four rials, or twoEnglishshillings, which out ofMaquilapaand that our feare of starving might not be worth above a penny; and yet this was but weake nourishment for our feeble bodies. Thus we waited all Tuesday for the laying of the wind, resolving the next morning either to goe up the hill, or downe againe toTapanatepeque. But on Wednesday morning the wind seeming to be somewhat laid, we purposed to stay till noon hoping then it would be sure travailing; but it ceased not but rather increased a little; whereupon one of our company resolved to goe upwards a mile or two on foot, and trie the passages, and the danger of the wind and to bring us word againe; for we thought our feare might be greater then the danger, who had heard much talke, but had not as yet seen any thing worth our feare. Up therefore went our friend, who staid from us neer two houres, and then returning backe he told us he thought we might get up leading our Mules by the bridles. But what with further questions and debates the time passed away, so that we thought it might be too late; and for that day we put off our journey untill the next morning, resolutely purposing to goe forwards altogether if the wind were not much increased. So that day we fell again to our green crabby Lemmons, water and Maiz powder, all which we found had much weakned our bodies and feared if we continued there any longer they might hasten our death. Wherefore on Thursday morning (the wind being as the day before) commending our selves first unto the protection of that Lord whom the winds and sea obey, we mounted up upon our Mules (leaving our names written in the barke of a great tree, and the dayes we stayed there without food) and so went upward. Wee perceived no great danger in the wind a great while, but some steps and passages upon stony rockes we feared for the narrownesse of them, and there we lighted, thinking our selves safer upon our own two feet, then upon the four feet of a beast. But when we came up to the very top ofMaquilapa(which signifies in that tongue, A head without haire) we perceived truly the danger so much talked of, and wished our selves again with our green Lemmons in the way toTapanatepeque, for we found it indeed a head without haire, a top without a tree or branch to shelter a fearfull Traveller; the passage that lieth open to the sea may be no more than a quarter of a mile, but the height and narrownesse of it stupefieth, for if we looke onthe one side, there is the wide and spatious South-sea lying so deep and low under it that it dazleth the eies to behold it; if wee looke on the other side, there are rockes of at least six or seven miles depth; whose sight doth make the stoutest and hardest heart (though like themselves) to quake and quiver; so that here the sea expects to swallow, there the rockes threaten to tear with a downfall, and in the midst of those dangers in some places the passage is not above an ell broad. We needed better cordialls for that quarter of a mile then feeding three daies upon green Lemmons and water, and durst not man our selves so much as to goe through it upon our Mules; we lighted, and gave theIndiansour Mules to lead, and we followed them one by one not daring to walk upright for fear of head giddinesse with looking on either side, but bowing our bodies we crept upon our hands and feet as neere unto the trackes which beasts and Travailers had made as we could without hindering our going. And when we had got to the end of that passage, and where the mountaine was broader, and the trees promised reliefe, we then looked back boldly, and accused of folly both our selves and all other Travailers that sought no other way though ten miles about, to avoid that danger both for man and beast. From thence joyfully we made haste toDon John de Toledo, who made us welcome and gave us some warme broath to comfort our stomacks, which were so weake that no sooner had wee eat any thing, but presently we cast it up againe; till after many sups of broath and wine we recovered strength towards night, and eat our suppers; there we stayed two daies; and thus thoroughly refreshed wee went toAcapalaa very great Towne ofIndiansin the Province ofChiapa, standing by the same river that passeth byChiapa, which is calledChiapa de Indios, orChiapaof theIndians, to distinguish it from anotherChiapa, calledChiapa Reallthe RoialChiapa, orChiapa de Espanoles, Chiapaof theSpaniards. FromAcapalawe went first toChiapaof theIndians, which standeth almost as low asMaquilapais high, seated upon a river as broad as is theThamesatLondon, which hath its spring from the mountaines calledCuchumatlanes, in the rode fromChiapa RealtoGuatemala, and runnes towards the Province ofZoques, where it entreth into the river ofTabasco. But of thisChiapaI will speak a little more in the next Chapter, and now onely say that here we were joyfully entertained by those Fryers, who looked upon us as members belonging to the Corporation of that their Province, and assured us that the Provinciall and chief Superiour would be very glad of our coming, who wantedSpanishFryers to oppose the Criolians and Natives who strived to get a head as they had done inMexicoandGuaxaca. Here we understood that the Provinciall was not above one daies journey from thence. Here also we met with our friendPeter Borallo, who had come before us alone, and made his escape fromMexico: he comforted us much with the good and kind usage which he had found there; yet he told us howCalvowas gone with the rest of his traine fromMexicotoAcapulco, & from thence was shipped with them toPhilippinas; but that at his departure he had writ a letter of bitter complaints unto the Superiour ofChiapaandGuatemalaagainst him and us four, desiring the Provinciall not to entertaine us, but to send us backe toMexico, to be shipped from thence the next yeer untoPhilippinas; which letter was not regarded; but much slighted by the Provinciall. After we had been a week feasted inChiapa, we thought it now fit to present our selves to the Provinciall (whose name was FryerPeter Alvarez) that from him we might receive judgement, and know whether we should stay in that Province, or be forced to return toSpaine, for in no other part ofAmericawe could be entertained. We found the Provinciall in a little Towne calledSt. Christopher, betweenChiapaof theIndiansand the RoiallChiapa, recreating himselfe in the shady walkes, which are many sweet and pleasant in that small Towne; where also there is store of fish, and great abundance of rare, and exquisite fruits. He entertained us very lovingly with faire and comfortable words, with a stately dinner and supper, and before we went to bed, to shew his humility hee did unto us what Christ to his Disciples, hee washed our feet. The first day he said little or nothing unto us concerning our continuing in that Country; but the next day he discovered unto us his full resolutions, with many wile and cunning sophismes. For first he read unto us the letter whichCalvohad writ unto him against us, glossing upon it how ill we had done in forsaking our first love and calling toPhilippinas, and the danger manyIndiansoules might bee in by reason of our not going thither to convert and instruct them, whose gifts and abilities he supposed might have been more profitable and comfortable to those souls, then those who in our stead and absence should be sent amongstthem. And secondly hee told us how wee had frustrated the King ofSpainesgood hopes of us who had allowed us means and maintenance fromSpaintoMexico, hoping that by us many soules ofIndiansinPhilippinasmight bee saved. Thirdly, hee told us that hee looked upon us as his prisoners, in whose power it was to imprison us, and to send us Prisoners toMexicoto the Viceroy, to bee shipped from thence toManila, according toCalvohis demand. But for the present hee would not let us know what hee meant to doe with us; Onely hee bad us not to bee discouraged, but to be merry and recreate our selves, and that after dinner wee should know more from him, when he had received an answer to a Letter which hee had writ unto the City ofChiapaconcerning the disposall of our persons. These reasonings of the grave and old Provinciall did not a little sad our hearts; for the losse of soules, and King ofSpainhis intentions and charity charged upon us, and imprisonment spoke of by the by, were words which seemed of a very high straine, and so could hardly bee digested by us; this mornings breakfast had quite taken away from us our stomack to our dinner. And thus wee departed from the presence of the venerable FryerPeter Alvarez, and betooke our selves to a shady walke under Orange trees belonging to the house where this Superiour was. In this shade wee conferred with our selves upon the words ofAlvarez, and finding them of so high a nature, as involving soules, a King, and imprisonment, we thought verily wee should bee sent back toMexico, and from thence like fugitive slaves bee forced toPhilippinas. Here my hopes of ever more seeingEnglandwere lost;Antonio Melendezhis heart panted, wished himself again upon the highest top ofMaquilapa; another wished himselfe with oldCalvoat Sea sailing toManila, though it were but to help him scrape his rusty Gammons of Bacon.
The motion was made to make an escape fromAlvarez, as wee had done fromCalvo; but to this answer was made, that whither so ever wee went, not knowing the Country, wee should bee discovered; and that put case the worst, wee should bee sent toMexico, wee might better escape in the way, then there where wee were. At last I told the rest, that I could conceive no hard nor harsh usage from that smiling and loving countenance of the Provinciall, nor after that his low and humble act of washing our feet the night before; and that I thought verily hee wished us well for having come so far to offer our selves for fellow-labourers in that harvest of souls belonging to his charge, and whom wee knew wanted such as we were newly come fromSpainto oppose the Criolians or Natives faction in that Province; alleadging furthermore the example of our friend and companionPeter Borallo, whom hee had already incorporated into that province, and could doe no lesse with us without partiality and acceptation of persons. And lastly, my opinion was, that in case wee ought not to be entertained there, yet the Provinciall would not send us back toMexico, there to be disgraced and affronted, but would give way unto us to returne toSpain, or whither else wee would, with some relief and mony in our purses. Whilst wee were thus troubled, and in this sad and serious discourse, oldAlvarezit seemes had been eying of us from his window, and asJosephcould not long suppresse and keep in the expressions of a loving and tender heart unto his brethren; so this good Superior perceiving that we were troubled with what he had said unto us, sent his companion unto us to comfort us; which wee easily perceived by his discourse when hee came unto us. For as soone as hee came hee asked us why wee were so sad and melancholy? hee told us, the Provinciall also had observed that wee were troubled. But, said hee, bee of good cheare; bee confident that the Provinciall wisheth you very well, and needeth such as you are, and having come into his Dominion to thrust your selves upon his mercy, by harsh and unkind usage hee will not doe what Martiall Law forbids a hard hearted Souldier to doe unto his enemy upon such termes. Many such comfortable words did he speak unto us; and told us further that the Provinciall had been much censured by the Criolian party for entertaining ofPeter Borallo; and that now they would stir worse seeing four more come to weaken their faction; and therefore hee desired to bee well advised concerning us, and to carry our businesse with such discretion, as might give little offence to those who were apt to judge and censure the best of all his actions. And finally hee did assure us, that wee should never bee sent back as prisoners toMexicoby the Provinciall, who in case hee could not entertaine us inChiapa, orGuatemala, would further us with all his favour, and friends, and money in our purses to return againe toSpain. These reasons were heart fainting Cordials unto us, and stomack preparatives to agood dinner, to which by the sound of a bell wee were invited. When wee came in, the loving, smiling, and fatherly countenance of the good Provinciall did chear us more then all the cheare that waited for us upon the table in severall dishes, all which were seasoned to our palates with the sauce of the comfort, which the Provincials messenger had brought unto us in the shady Orange walke in the garden. The great provision of fish and flesh, with fruits and sweet meats were yet to us a strong argument that wee were very welcome; for what wee fed on that day, might well become a Noble mans Table; besides in many passages of our discourse wee perceived that good oldAlvarezhis heart was overjoyed with our comming to him. Dinner being ended the Provinciall desired to play a game at Tables with us round about, saying hee would not win our money, because hee judged us poore after so long a journey. But thus hee setled the game and sport; that if he did win, we should say for him fivePater Nosters, and fiveAve Maries; but if wee wun, wee should win our admittance, and Incorporation into that Province. This sport pleased us well, for our winnings wee judged would be to us more profitable at that time, then to winne pounds, and our loosings we valued not; besides wee were confident all went well with us, when from the favour of the Dice, wee might challenge that favour which with many weary journeys wee had come to seek above foure hundred miles. The sport began, and wee young blades taking one by one our turnes were too hard for the old man, who (as wee perceived) would willingly bee the loser, that his very losses might speak unto us what through policy and discretion hee would not utter with words. Yet wee boldly challenged our winnings, which as soone as wee had ended our game were now surely confirmed unto us by the returne of anIndianmessenger, who that morning had been sent to the City ofChiapafor advice and counsell from the Prior and the chiefe of the Cloister concerning our disposal, and now was returned with an answer from the Prior, who in his letter expressed great joy unto the Provinciall for our comming, and so from the rest of the Seniors of the Cloister, and did earnestly begge of the Superiour, that hee would send us to him to bee his guests, for that our case had beene his owne some ten yeers before, for hee had also atMexicoforsaken his company toPhilippinas, and fled toGuatemala, where for his learning and good parts hee had been as a stranger much envied by the Criolian faction; but now hee hoped hee should have some to side with him against such as spighted and maligned him. OldAlvarezwas much taken with his letter, and told us hee must pay what hee had lost, and that the next day he would send us toChiapa, there to abide untill hee tooke further care of us, to send us to other parts of the Country, to learne theIndianlanguages, that wee might preach unto them. This discourse being ended wee betooke our selves again to the Garden which smelled more of comfort then before dinner, and to our shady walks which now offered us a safer protection then they had done in the forenoone, countenancing that protection which we had gained from the Provinciall.
Here we began to praise God, who had looked upon us in our low estate, not forgetting the wise and politick Provinciall, who though hee had lost his games for our comfort, wee would not hee should lose our prayers, which there wee offered up to God for his health and safety. And so till supper time wee continued our discourse in the Garden fuller of mirth and pleasant jests, then wee had done before dinner, snatching now and then at the Oranges and Lemmons, which were there both sowre and sweet, eating of some, and casting some one at another, but especially at him who had wished himselfe withCalvodressing his rusty Bacon, whom we strived to beat out of the garden by force of Orange and Lemmon bullets; which sport we continued the more willingly, because wee perceived the good Provinciall stood behind a Lattice in a Balcony beholding us, and rejoycing to see our hearts so light and merry. Wee had no sooner beatCalvohis friend out of the garden, when the bell to supper sounded a retreat to us all, and called us again to meet our best friendAlvarez, who had furnished us a Table againe like that at noone. After supper hee told us that the next morning hee would send us toChiapa, for that the Prior had writ unto him he would meet us in the way with a Breakfast at a Towne called St.Philip; wherewith wee conceited very highly of our selves to see that Provincialls and Priors were so forward to feast us. Yet before we went to bed, the Provinciall would try again a game at Tables with every one of us, to see if now hee could beat us that had been too hard for him at noon. The matter of our game was now altered, and what we played for was this; if the Provinciallwun, wee were to bee his Prisoners, (which mystery wee understood not till the next day, for the old man was crafty and Politick, and knew hee could winne of us when he listed, for hee was an excellent gamester at Tables) but if wee wun of him, hee was to give us a box ofChocolatte, which was a drinke wee liked very well. The Game went on, and wee every one of us one by one were losers, yet understood not how wee should bee his Prisoners, but slighted our losses. Yet for all this the merry Provinciall told us, hee was sory wee had lost, and wished wee might never bee prisoners to a worse enemie then hee; and that wee should perceive it, hee would comfort us each one as a Prisoner with a box ofChocolatte, to drinke for his sake, and to comfort our hearts, when most wee should find them discomforted for our losses. Wee understood not his meaning till the next day at noone, but thought it was a jest and a word of sport and mirth, like many such like which in his discourse had come from him.
With this wee tooke our leaves, and went to bed with light and merry hearts. In the morning two Mules of the Provinciall and two of his Companion were sadled for us, and at least a dozenIndianson horse back waited for us to conduct us up a steepy hill and through woods to the Towne of St.Philip. After our breakfast the good Provinciall imbraced us, and bad us farewell, desiring us to pray for him; and not to bee discouraged by any thing that might befall us, assuring us hee wished us very well, and would doe what lay in his power for our good; yet so, that hee must use policy and discretion to stop the mouths of the Criolians, whom hee knew hated both him and us. Thus we departed with Waits and Trumpets sounding before us, which rebounded an Echo all the way up the hill from us to oldAlvarezwhom we had left in a low bottome compassed about with hils on every side. Wee had no sooner ascended up to the top of the Mountaine, when we discovered a little Valley, and in it the City ofChiapaof theSpaniards; with two or three small Villages, of which one was St.Philipat the bottom of the Mountaine, which we were to descend. The Trumpets which still went sounding before us were a sufficient and loud Alarme to St.PhilipsInhabitants of our coming, and a warning for the speedier hastening of our second breakfast, for the which the cold morning aire (which wee found somewhat piercing upon the Mountaine) had whetted and through prepared our stomacks. We had not got down the Mountaine halfe a mile, when wee met with a matter of twenty gallantIndianson horse-back with their trumpeters sounding before them, and behind them came upon a stately Mule the Prior ofChiapa, (whose name was FatherJohn Baptist) a merry fat Fryer, who calling us his brethren fugitives fromPhilippinas, told us wee were welcome to that country, and to him especially, and that in the next St.Philiphe would shew us better sport, then anySt. Philipin all thePhilippinasIslands could have shewed us, if wee had gone thither. Thus with a pleasant discourse, and many merry conceits from the good Prior wee soone came downe the hill, where the whole Village of St.Philipwaited for us both men and women, some presenting unto us nosegaies, others hurling Roses and other flowers in our faces, others dancing before us all along the street, which was strowed with herbes and Orange leaves, and adorned with many Arches made with flowers and hung with garlands for us to ride under untill wee came to the Church, where for halfe an houre wee were welcomed with the best musick from the City ofChiapa, which the Prior had hired to come with him to entertaine us. Our Musick being ended, fat FatherJohn Baptiststood up and made a short speech unto theIndians, giving them thankes for their kind and pompous entertainment of us his speciall friends, and that their soules might gaine by it, hee granted unto them a plenary indulgence of all their sinnes past to bee gained by as many of them as should visit that Church the next Lords Day either before or afternoon. And thus from the Altar wee went unto our breakfasting Table, which was furnished with many well seasoned dishes of salt and well peppered and spiced meats, all fit to make us relish better a cup ofSpanish Pier Ximenywhich the Prior had provided for us. After our salt meats, came such rare and exquisite sorts of sweet meats made byJohn Baptisthis best devoted Nuns ofChiapa, that the like wee had not seen from St.John de Ulhuato that place. These were to prepare our stomacks for a Cup ofChocolatte, with the which we ended our breakfast. But whilst all this was gallantly performed by the Prior, it was a hard Riddle unto us, what hee often repeated unto us saying, Brethren break your fast well, for your dinner will be the meanest as ever yee did eate in your lives, and now enjoy this sweet liberty which will not last long unto you. Wee observed the words, butknew not what to make of them, till wee came unto the Cloister. After our breakfast theIndiansshewed us a little sport in the Market place, running races on horse-back, and playing atJuego de Canna's; which is to meet on horseback, with broad Targets to defend their heads and shoulders while passing by they hurle Canes, or darts one at another, which thoseIndiansacted with great dexterity.
Thus the good Prior ofChiapafeasted us, and permitted us to injoy our liberty as long as it seemes it had beene agreed upon by letters between him and the Provinciall, which was till it might be dinner time in the Cloister ofChiapa, where wee were to bee before noone. The time drew neere, and we had from St.Philipto the City ofChiapasome twoEnglishmiles to ride; Wherefore the Prior commanded our Mules to bee brought; the waits and trumpets gave warning to the Town of our departure; and so with many horsemen, with dances, Musick and ringing of Bells wee were as stately and joyfully conducted out of the Town, as wee had been inducted into it. At the first halfe miles end the Prior gave thankes unto theIndians, and desired them to return, the Cloister being neer where wee expected another kinde of entertainment, not using in the City and Cloister that pompe and state, which in the Country might bee allowed. TheIndianstooke their leaves of us; and on we went with onely two as guides before us. Within halfe a mile of the City, the Prior and a companion of his stopped, and tooke out of his pocket an order from the Provinciall, which he read unto us, to this effect, That whereas we had forsaken our lawfull SuperiorCalvoin the way toPhilippinas, and without his licence had come unto the Province ofChiapa, hee could not in conscience but inflict some punishment upon us before he did enable us to abide there as members under him; therefore hee did strictly command the Prior ofChiapa, that as soone as wee should enter into his Cloister, hee should shut us up two by two in our chambers, as in prisons, for three daies, not suffering us to goe out to any place, save onely to the publick place of refection (called Refectory) where all the Fryers met together to dine and sup, where at noon time we were to present our selves before all the Cloister sitting upon the bare ground, and there to receive no other dinner, but only bread and water; but at supper we might have in our chambers, or Prisons, what the Prior would be pleased to allow us. This was the Penance enjoined upon us by the wise and cunning Provinciall. This newes at the first was but sowre sawce, or a dry Postpast after a double sumptuous breakfast; it was a dolefull ditty to us after our Musick, and dances, to heare of a treble fast after our feast; to heare of imprisonment after so great liberty. We now began to remember the Provincialls winnings at Tables the night before, and the mystery thereof, and began to thinke how comfortable his boxes ofChocolattewould be unto us after a meale of bread and water. Now wee called to minde the short dinner the Prior had told us at St.Philipswee were like to have that day, and of the liberty hee bad us then make much of. But the good Prior seeing us sad upon a suddaine, and our countenances changed, smiled upon us, wishing us not to thinke the worse of him, nor of the Provinciall, who did that out of Policy, and to stop the Criolians mouths, whom he knew would murmur, if no punishment were inflicted upon us. Hee assured us, after our imprisonment, of honours and preferments, and that as long as wee were with him, wee should want no incouragement; and that after a bread and water dinner hee could send us to our chambers a Supper, that should strongly support our empty stomacks, and furre and line them well for the next foure and twenty houres. With these incouragements on wee went to the Cloister ofChiapa, where wee were welcomed by most of the Fryers, but in some few wee noted a frowning and disaffected countenance. We were no sooner conducted to our chambers, when the bell sounded to dinner for the rest, and cryed aloud to us Penance with bread and water. Downe wee went to the common dining place, and thanks being given, the Fryers sitting round the tables, wee fourePhilippinian Jonahs(so some Criolians were pleased to term us) betook our selves to the middle of the Refectory, where without cushions, stooles, seats or forms, wee sate upon the bare ground crosse legged like Tailors, acting humility now for our disobedience unto slovenlyCalvo. While the first dish was presented round the tables, to each of us was presented a loafe of reasonable bignesse, and a pot of pure Crystall water, whereof wee fed and dranke most heartily though with full stomacks from a double breakfast before. Yet even here in this publick Act of shame and disgrace (which wee knew was usuall among Fryers for lesse faults then ours) we had this comfort, that we hada Prior and Provinciall for friends, and that that punishment came from a friendly hand, whose Chocolatte wee had to comfort our fasting bodies; and secondly, wee knew that wee should have that night in our prison chambers a better supper than any of those before us, who fed upon their three or foure dishes. But thirdly, it was our comfort that at that very time a Criolian Frier also sate upon the ground with us (of whose company we had been informed by some friends before wee went into the refectory) for some love letters which had been intercepted between him and a Nun of that City, tending to much uncivility, and breaking their oath of professed chastity. But when I perceived this Frier to looke discontentedly upon us, I chose my place as neer unto him as I could, and hearing him mutter within himselfe against us, calling us disobedientPhilippinian Jonahs, I softly and friendly spoke unto him with these two following Hexameters, which suddenly came unto my mind about his misdemeanor.