Si Monialis Amor te turpia scribere fecit,Ecce tibi frigidæ præhent medicamina lymphæ.
But my good neighbour snuffing and puffing at my suddain muse, seemed to be more discontented then before, and would faine withdraw himselfe by degrees from mee, not rising up (for that was not lawfull to doe till dinner had been ended) but wrigling his elbowes and shoulders scornefully from me, whom in like manner I followed, cleaving friendly to him with this verse,
Solamen misera est socios retinere Panettes,
Hee thought I followed him to steale away his loafe from him. This new found word,Panettes, had almost choaked him, had not hee made use of the medicinall water which stood before him; of the which he dranke a good draught, whereby I perceived his courage against me and my friends was tamed, and I told him, I hoped his burning wanton love was cooled.
Thus with my Criolian neighbours company my bread and water went down cheerfully; and dinner being ended, we were again conducted to our chambers, where we dranke a cup of oldAlvarezhisChocolatte. TheCastilianFriers flocked unto our prisons, some to talke with us, some bringing us conserves and sweet-meats, others other dainties, which they had prepared to helpe our digestion of bread and cold water. My suddain verses to my Criolian neighbour were presently noysed about the Cloister, and were the chiefe subject of our talke that afternoone. Our supper was provided for us according to the promise and generous spirit of the Prior, who also honoured our prison that night with his owne and two other Friers company supping with us all in one chamber together. And thus we passed our three daies of imprisonment merrily and contentedly, wishing we might never suffer harder usage in any prison then we had done in this, which was not to us such a punishment as did bring with it the privation of any liberty of enjoying the company of friends, of feasting with them, but onely the privation of the liberty of our legs to walke about those three daies; and this rather an ease then a punishment, for that we wanted rather rest, then much stirring after so long and tedious a journey as we had compassed fromMexicothither. We were no sooner set at liberty, but we presently found the Provinciall and Prior ready to dispose of us so, that in lieu of our imprisonment we might receive honor and credit. Two were sent into the Country to learne someIndianlanguage, that so they might be beneficed and preach unto theIndians. My selfe and another desired to goe farther toGuatemala, that there we might practise Philosophy and Divinity in the famous Universitie of that City. Nothing that we desired was denied unto us, onely the time was thought not fit untillMichaelmas, because then the schooles were renewed, and new Orders setled. In the meane time the Provinciall having also heard of my versesex temporeto the Criolian Frier, and knowing that theLatintongue is better grounded inEnglandthen among theSpaniards(who abuse poorePriscianand daily breake his pate with foolish soloecismes) and considering the want hee had of a Master of theLatinetongue to supply a Lecture of Grammar and Syntax to the youthes ofChiapain a schoole in that Cloister, which brought a sufficient yeerly stipend unto the Covent, desired me to accept of that place untill such time as he should take care to send me toGuatemala, promising me all incouragements in the meane time fitting, and that I should when I would go about to see the Country (which I much desired) and also that out of the schoole annuity I should have my allowance for bookes,and other necessaries. I could not but accept of this good offer; and so with this imployment I remained in that City fromAprillto the end ofSeptember, where I was much esteemed of by the Bishop and Governour, but especially by the Prior, who would never ride about the Country for his recreation, but he would take me with him, whereby I had occasion to note concerning the Province, riches, commodities, and government ofChiapa, what in the ensuing Chapter I shall faithfully commend unto the Presse.
ThoughChiapain the opinion of theSpaniardsbe held to be one of the poorest Countries ofAmerica; because in it as yet there have been no mines discovered, nor golden sands found in the rivers, nor any haven upon the South-sea, whereby commodities are brought in and carried out, as toMexico, GuaxacaandGuatemala; yet I may say it exceedeth most Provinces in the greatness and beauty of fair Towns, and yeeldeth to none except it be toGuatemala; nay it surpasseth all the rest ofAmericain that one, and famous and most populous Towne ofChiapaof theIndians. And it ought not to be so much slighted by theSpaniardsas it is, if they would looke upon it as standing betweenMexicoandGuatemala, whose strength might be allAmericaesstrength, and whose weakenesse may prove dangerous to all that flourishing Empire, for the easy entrance into it by the river ofTabasco, or for its neer joyning and bordering untoJucatan. Besides, the commodities in it are such as doe uphold a constant trading and commerce amongst the inhabitants themselves, and with other neighbouring Countries, and from no one part ofAmericadothSpaineget moreCochinilthen from one of the Provinces ofChiapa; the Townes also being great and populous, by their yeerly pole tribute do adde much to the King ofSpainesrevenues.
This Country is divided into three Provinces, to wit,Chiapa, Zeldales, andZoques; whereofChiapait selfe is the poorest. This containes the great Towne ofChiapaof theIndians, and all the Townes and farmes North-ward towardsMaquilapa, and West-ward the Priory ofComitlan, which hath some ten Townes, and many farmes of Cattle, Horses, and Mules subject unto it; and neighbouring unto it lieth the great valley ofCapanabastla, which is another Priory reaching towardsSoconuzco. This valley glorieth in the great river, which hath its spring from the mountaines calledCuchumatlanes, and runneth toChiapaof theIndians, and from thence toTabasco. It is also famous for the abundance of fish, which the river yeeldeth, and the great store of Cattell which from thence minister food and provision both to the City ofChiapa, and to all the adjacent Townes. ThoughChiapathe City, andComitlanas standing upon the hils, bee exceeding cold, yet this valley lying low is extraordinary hot, and fromMaytoMichaelmasis subject to great stormes and tempests of thunder and lightning. The head Towne where the Priory stands, is calledCapanabastla, consisting of above eight hundredIndianinhabitants. But greater than this isIzquintenangoat the end of the valley and at the foot of the mountaines ofCuchumatlanesSouthward. And yet bigger then this is the Towne ofSt. BartholomewNorthward at the other end of the valley, which in length is about fourty miles, and ten or twelve onely in breadth. All the rest of the Townes lie towardsSoconuzco, and are yet hotter and more subject to thunder and lightning, as drawing neerer unto the South-sea coast. Besides the abundance of cattell, the chiefe commoditie of this valley consisteth in Cotton-wooll, whereof are made such store of mantles for theIndianswearing, that the Merchants far and neer come for them. They exchange them toSoconuzcoandSuchutepequesforCacao, whereby they are well stored of that drinke. So that the inhabitants want neither fish (which they have from the river) nor flesh (for that the valley abounds with Cattell) nor clothing (for of that they spare to others) nor bread, though not of wheat, for there growes none; butIndianMaiz they have plenty of; and besides they are exceedingly stored with fowles and Turkeys, fruits, Hony, Tobacco and Sugar-canes.Neither is mony here nor inChiapaso plentifull as inMexicoandGuaxaca; and whereas there they reckon by Patacones, or pieces of Eight; here they reckon by Tostones which are but halfe Patacones. Though the river be many waies profitable to that valley, yet it is cause of many disasters to the inhabitants, who lose many times their children, and their Calves and Colts drawing neere to the water-side, where they are devoured by Caymanes, which are many and greedy of flesh, by reason of the many prizes they have got. The City ofChiapa Real, is one of the meanest Cities in allAmerica, consisting of not above four hundred housholdersSpaniards, and about an hundred houses ofIndiansjoyning to the City, and calledel barrio de los Indios, who have a Chappell by themselves. In this City there is no Parish Church, but onely the Cathedrall, which is mother to all the inhabitants. Besides, there are two Cloisters, one of Dominicans, and the other of Franciscans, and a poore Cloister of Nuns, which are burdensome enough to that City. But the Jesuites having got no footing there (who commonly live in the richest and wealthiest places and Cities) is a sufficient argument of either the poverty of that City, or of want of gallant parts, and prodigality in the gentry, from whose free and generous spirits they like Horse-leeches are still sucking extraordinary and great almes for the Colledges where they live; but here the Merchants are close handed, and the Gentlemen hard, and sparing, wanting of wit and Courtiers parts and bravery, and so pooreChiapais held no fit place for Jesuites. The Merchants chiefe trading there is inCacao, Cotton-wool from the adjacent parts of the Country, in Pedlers small wares, and in some Sugar from aboutChiapaof theIndians, in a littleCochinil; for commonly the Governour (whose chiefe gaine consisteth in this) will not suffer them to be too free in this commoditie, lest they hinder his greedy traffique. These have their shops all together in a little Market-place before the Cathedrall Church, built with walkes and Porches, under which the pooreIndianwives meet at five a clock at evening to sell what slap and drugges they can prepare most cheape for the empty Criolian stomackes. The richer sort of these Merchants go and send yet further toTabascofor wares fromSpaine, such as wines, Linnen cloth, Figs, Raisins, Olives, and Iron, though in these commodities they dare not venture too much, by reason theSpaniardsin that Country are not very many, and those that are there, are such as are loath to open their purses to more then what may suffice nature. So that what areSpanishcommodities are chiefly brought for the Friers who are the best and joviallest blades of that Countrey. The Gentlemen ofChiapaare a by-word all about that Country, signifying great Dons (dones, gifts or abilities I should say) great birth, phantasticke pride, joyned with simplicity, ignorance, misery and penury. These Gentlemen will say they descend from some Dukes house inSpain, and immediately from the first Conquerors; yet in carriage they are but clownes, in wit, abilities, parts and discourse as shallow brained, as a low brooke, whose waters are scarce able to leap over a pibble stone; any small reason soone tries and tires their weak braine, which is easily at a stand when sense is propounded, and slides on speedily when non-sense carrieth the streame. The chiefe families in this City, are named,Cortez, Solis, Velasco, Toledo, Zerna, andMendoza. One of these, who was thought the chiefe in my time, calledDon Melchor de Velasco, one day fell into discourse with mee concerningEngland, and ourEnglishnation, and in the best, most serious and judicious part of his Don-like conference, asked me whether the sun and moone inEnglandwere of the same colour as inChiapa, and whetherEnglishmen went barefoot like theIndians, and sacrificed one another as formerly did the Heathens of this Countrey? and whether allEnglandcould afford such a dainty as a dish of Frixoles (which is the poorestIndiansdaily food there, being black and dry Turkey or French beanes boyled with a little biting Chille orIndianpepper with garlicke, till the broath become as black as any Inke)? And whether the women inEnglandwent as long with child, as did theSpanishwomen? And lastly, whether theSpanishnation were not a farre gallanter nation then theEnglish? When I perceived my Don ran farther and farther into his simple and foolish questions, I cut him off suddenly, telling him, Sir, It is long since I came out ofEngland, if you give me leave to recollect my memory, I will answer some of these your hard questions the next time we meet (thinking hereby to try my Dons wit further, whether he could perceive I jeared him.) To which my simple Don replyed, I pray Sir doe, and whensoever you come, you shall be welcome to a dish of Frixoles. With this I tooke my leave of him, and at our farewell, he againe desiredmee to study well his questions, and to return him a speedy answer, whereby I was more confirmed in my conceit of myDon, that he was eithertontoorbobo, foole or simple. Yet thought I my best way to answer is to answer a fool according to his folly, and so resolved within two or three daies to return unto him some simple answer according to his simple and foolish questions. Therefore speedily I singled out a good occasion of meeting with him at his own house, who welcomed me with muchSpanishgravity, and sitting down beforeDonna Angela, his painted wife and Angel; began to answer, or more to jeer hisDonship. I began with the Sun and Moon, telling him that they were planets, & had their speciall influences upon severall nations, as all planets have upon mans body. And so they did shew themselves according to the inclination of the people of severall Kingdomes. And therefore as theSpaniardswere much inclined toVenusand to beauty, and not contenting themselves with the naturall beauty of their faire Ladies, would yet have Art add to nature by the skill and use of the best painting colours; so these glorious planets of the Sun and Moon among theSpaniards, and especially inChiapa, shewed themselves most comely, bright, glorious and beautifull, working the like inclination to beauty upon, and in allSpaniards. My instance was in the land of the Blackmores, where I told them that their bodies were black, and that among them the Sun appeared with a dark and sad visage. Here myDoncried out; An excellent example. I gave him yet a second instance from the Eclipse of the Sun; which being eclipsed, made all the Earth, mens faces and bodies seeme of a darke, or yellow colour, to shew the proportion or sympathy of sublunary bodies to that high and overmastering planet. To this that goodDonreplyed;sennor no se puede decir mas, sir, nothing can be answered or said more or better.Vengamos agora a Ingalatierra, Let us draw now toEngland. To which I answered him, that inEnglandthe Sun and Moon appeared halfe yeer of one colour, and half of another; for the women one half yeer it appeared as inSpainandChiapa, beautifull and glorious, for that naturally without painting they yeelded to none in beauty. But the other half yeer it appeared as red as blood, or scarlet; and the reason might easily bee guessed at, for that no Nation is more warlik and high spirited then theEnglish, whose very clothes were fiery, wearing more scarlet then any nation in the World; as hee might perceive by their coming so much with their ships to theIndianCoasts to fight with theSpaniards; and that as they delighted to goe in red, and to bee like the Sun, so naturally they were brought to those Seas to single out such ships as fromAmericacarried the rich Commodity ofCochinill, whereof they make more use thenSpainit selfe to die their cloaths and Coats withall. Here myDonjogged his head, and replyed; Sir, I thought no nation had been so like the Sun as theSpaniards; for I have read that when our Ancestors came to conquer these parts, theIndianscalled them,hijos del Sol, that is, sons of the Sun, being comely and gallant, and more like the Sun then any other people. To this I answered him. Sir, no doubt but you are like the Sun here, and none more glittering and bright, your very hatbands shining with Pearls and Diamonds like the brightnesse of the Sun; But as I said before the Blackmores are like their Sun, so I say, theEnglishis like their Sun, which is red, and so doe and will affect to wear Scarlet, as long as anyCochinillis to be found in theIndia's.
NowDon Melchorbegan to understand mee, and told mee, never man had satisfied him with better reasons then my self. Hee thanked mee heartily, and told mee, hee thought no Gentleman inChiapacould tell so well as himself now why theEnglishships came so much upon their Coasts; and that my discourse had satisfied him to the full. Hee desired mee to goe on to his other questions. To his second demanding whether theEnglishwent barefoot like theIndians, I told him I thought that the Count ofGondomar, (who had been many yeers Ambassadour fromSpaininEngland) had satisfied all theSpaniardsthat doubt, who coming fromEnglandtoMadrid, and being there asked by some Courtiers, whetherLondonwas as big asMadrid, and as well peopled; he made answer, that hee thought there was scarce a hundred left inLondon. Hee proved it from the use and custome of his own Countrymen ofSpain; who when they are to make a journey, shew themselves two or three daies before in colours, walking with boots and spurs, that their friends may take notice that they are departing out of the Towne or City. So said the Count ofGondomar, I think by this there are very few People inLondon; for when I came from thence I left them all almost in cloaths of colours, booted and spurred as ready to depart and take somejourney. And truely myDon(quoth I) your owne Count hath answered for mee; yet I say, theEnglishare so farre from going barefoot, that they goe booted, and are all in a readinesse to move out ofEnglandfor any noble and generous designe; but above all they are still ready forAmerica, where they know is store and abundance of Hydes to make them Bootes to cover the barenesse of their legges, that they may not be suspected to be like bare-footedIndians. HereDon Melchorreplyed, I pray sir, when they come by Sea to these parts doe they come also booted and spurred? For I should thinke, when they fight, their Spurs should hinder them. To this his doubt I answered first, as concerning spurres in the ships, with the example of one of his own Nation, and of the best Divines inSpain, living in my time inValladolid, calledMaestro Nunno, (Reader of Divinity in the Colledge of St.Gregorie, but in his carriage and experience in the World a simple noddy) who being invited by a Noble man to goe with him in his Coach out of the City a mile or two to a garden of recreation, went hastily about the Colledge to borrow boots and spurs; and when he had put them on, being asked whither he went, and why he put on boots and spurs, answered that he was to goe in a Coach out of the City, and that hee thought the Coach and Mules would want spurs to goe and come the sooner. Even so myDon(quoth I) theEnglishmen come booted and spurred in their ships, to make their ships sail on the swifter. And this is the reason why theEnglishships saile faster, and when they are in fight turn about quicker then aSpanishGaleon, because they are spurred & kicked within. O Sir, I humbly thank you (saidDon Melchor) for that by your discourse now I know the truth of what indeed I have often heard say, that theEnglishships are nimbler, and quicker at Sea then our heavy Galeons. Now as for fighting theEnglishmens spurs (said I) are no hinderance to them, but rather a great advantage. For they fight with weapons, with their hands and with their feet, wherein they exceed theSpaniards; for when they have shot with their peeces, or cut down with their swords any enemy, or knocked him with their holbards, then with their feet and spurres, they fall upon him, and so soone rid him out of the way, that hee may no more rise up against them. All you have told mee (said the wiseVelazco) stands with so much reason, that my judgment is convinced by you. As for eating and sacrificing one another like theIndians(I told him) that theEnglishfilled their bellies so well with fat Beef and Mutton, fowles, Rabbits, Partridges and Pheasants, that they had no stomacke at all to mans flesh. And that truly for frixoles dressed with garlick, that onely daintie dish was wanting inEngland; and that for Garlick, three reasons moved theEnglishnot to bee lavishing of that little they had; first, for feare they should want it for their horses drenches; secondly, for that they felt not themselves so much troubled with the wind, nor puffed up with windy and vaine conceits as other nations did; but thirdly and chiefly they refrained from it among themselves, that they might not smell of it, and that by the sent and smell of it a farre off at Sea they might when they came to the Coast ofAmerica, smell out aSpanishship, and know it from aHollander. Here myDon Melchorfell into admiration, assuring mee, hee had never heard more solid reasons from any man. Alas poore Criolian ofChiapa(thought I) if I had spoken sense, thy shallow braine had not beene able to have leaped over it, but after non-sense thou art easily carried away. As for his last question, I told him that was above my reach, for that poore Fryers ought not to meddle with women, neither had my mother ever told mee how long shee went with mee. But how ever ifDonna Angelawould tell mee how long shee went with her children, I would by the constellations of the Heavens search out against our next meeting, how long theEnglishwomen went with their children. To this myDon Melchoranswered that he would not trouble me to study what he thought was not belonging to my profession; but he knew that if I would study that or any other hard & difficult point, I could give him more & better satisfaction then any scholar in that City.
And thus (Reader) by this DonMelchorswit and ability would I have thee judge of the Gentlemen Criolians or natives ofChiapa; and yet as presumptuous they are and arrogant, as if the noblest bloud in the Court ofMadridran through their veines. It is a common thing amongst them to make a dinner only with a dish of Frixoles in black broath, boyled with pepper and garlicke, saying it is the most nourishing meat in all theIndia's; and after this so stately a dinner they will be sure to come out to the street-dore of their houses to see and to be seen, and there for halfe an houre will they standshaking off the crums of bread from their cloaths, bands (but especially from their ruffes when they used them) and from their mustachoes. And with their tooth-pickers they will stand picking their teeth, as if some small Partridge bone stuck in them; nay if a friend passe by at that time, they will be sure to find out some crum or other in their mustacho (as if on purpose the crums of the table had been shaken upon their beards, that the losse of them might be a gaining of credit for great house keeping) and they will be sure to vent out some non-truth, as to say,A Senor que linda perdiz he comido oy,O Sir, what a dainty Partridge have I eat to day, where as they picke out nothing from their teeth but a black husk of a dry frixole or Turkey bean. Though great in blood and in birth they say they are, yet in their imployments they are but rich Grasiers, for most of their wealth consisteth in farmes of Cattell and Mules. Some indeed have Townes ofIndianssubject unto them, whereof they are called Encomendero's, and receive yeerly from everyIndiana certaine Pole tribute of fowles and mony. They have most cowardly spirits for warre, and though they will say, they would faine seeSpaine, yet they dare not venture their lives at sea; they judge sleeping in a whole skin the best maxime for their Criolian spirits. One hundred fighting souldiers would easily lay low thoseChiapa Dons, and gain the whole City, which lyeth so open to the fields, that the Mules and Asses come in and grase, the streets being very commodious to entertain Asses from within, and from without. Yet in this City liveth commonly a Governour, or Alcalde Major, and a Bishop. The Governours place is of no small esteem and interest, for that his power reacheth farre, and he tradeth much in Cacao and Cochinil, and domineers over bothSpaniardsandIndiansat his will and pleasure. But ill gotten goods never thrive, as was seen inDon Gabriel de Orellana(Governour of this City and Countrey in my time) who having sent the worth of eight thousand crownes in Cochinil, Cacao, Sugar, and Hydes by the river ofTabascotowards theHavanalost it all into the hands of theHollanders, who doubtlesse knew how to make better use of it, then would have done that tyrannizing Governour. The Bishops place of that City is worth at least eight thousand duckats a yeer, which truly he had need of that comes so far fromSpainto live in such a City where are such ableDons, asDon Melchor de Velasco, and where Asses are so freely fed and bred. Most of this Bishops revenues consisteth in great offerings which he yeerly receiveth from the greatIndianTownes, going out to them once a yeer to confirme their children, whose confirmation is such a means to confirme and strengthen the Bishops revenues, that none must be confirmed by him who offer not a faire white Wax-candle, with a ribban and at least foure Rials. I have seen the richer sort offer him a Candle of at least six pound weight with two yards of twelve penny broad ribban, and the Candle stucke from the top to the bottom with single Rials round about. Nay the pooreIndiansmake it the chiefe masterpiece of their vanity to offer proudly in such occasions.Don Bernardino de Salazarwas the Bishop of this City in my time, who desired my company to ride with him his circuit but one moneth, about the Townes neer toChiapa, and in this time I was appointed by him to hold the basin wherein theSpaniardsandIndians(whilst he confirmed their children) did cast their offerings, which my selfe and another Chaplaine did alwaies tell and cast up by good account before we carried the mony up into his chamber, and I found that at our returne at the moneths end he had received one thousand and six hundred duckats of onely offerings, besides the fees due to him for visiting the severall companies, or sodalities and confraternities belonging to the Saints or soules in their purgatory (which are extraordinary rich there) whereof he and all other Bishops in their district take account yeerly. This Bishop was (as all the rest are there) somewhat covetous; but otherwise a man of a temperate life and conversation, very zealous to reforme whatsoever abuses committed in the Church, which cost him his life before I departed fromChiapatoGuatemala. The women of that City it seems pretend much weakenesse and squeamishnesse of stomack, which they say is so great, that they are not able to continue in the Church while a Masse is briefly hudled over, much lesse while a solemn high Masse (as they call it) is sung, and a Sermon preached, unlesse they drinke a cup of hot Chocolatte, and eat a bit of sweet-meats to strengthen their stomackes. For this purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring to them to Church in the middle of Masse or Sermon a cup of Chocolatte, which could not be done to all, or most of them without a great confusion and interrupting both Masse and Sermon. The Bishop perceiving this abuseand having given faire warning for the omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fixe in writing upon the Churches dores an excommunication against all such as should presume at the time of service to eat or drinke within the Church. This excommunication was taken by all, but especially by the Gentlewomen much to heart, who protested if they might not eat or drinke in the Church, they could not continue in it to heare what otherwise they were bound unto. The chiefe of them knowing what great friendship there was between the Bishop and the Prior, and my selfe, came to the Prior and mee desiring us to use all meanes wee could with the Bishop for the revoking that his excommunication so heavily laid upon them, and threatning their soules with damning judgement for the violation of it. The good Prior and my selfe laboured all we could, alleadging the custome of the Countrey, the weakenesse of the sex whom it most concerned, and also the weaknesse of their stomackes, the contempt that might from them ensue unto his person, and many inconveniences which might follow to the breeding of an uproar in the church and in the City, whereof we had some probable conjecture from what already we had heard from some. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop; to which he answered that he preferred the honour of God, and of his house before his owne life. The women seeing him so hard to be intreated, began to stomacke him the more and to sleight him with scornefull and reproachfull words; others sleighted his excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the Church, as the fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproare in the Cathedrall, that many swords were drawne against the Preists and Prebends, who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of Chocolatte, which they brought unto their mistresses; who at last seeing that neither faire nor foule meanes would prevaile with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall, where the Bishops own and his Prebends eies must needs be watching over them; and so from that time most of the City betooke themselves to the Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Friers they were not troubled nor resisted, though fairely counselled to obey the command of the Bishop; whose name now they could not brooke, and to whose Prebends they denied now all such reliefe and stipend for Masses which formerly they had used to bestow upon them, conferring them all upon the Fryers who grew rich by the poor impoverished Cathedrall. This lasted not long, but the Bishop began to stomacke the Fryers, and to set up another excommunication, binding all the City to resort unto their owne Cathedrall Church; which the women would not obey, but kept their houses for a whole month; in which time the Bishop fell dangerously sick, and desired to retire himselfe to the Cloister of the Dominicans, for the great confidence he had in the Prior that he would take care of him in his sickenesse. Physitians were sent for far and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop was poisoned; and he himself doubted not of it at his death, praying unto God to forgive those that had been the cause of it, and to accept of that sacrifice of his life, which he was willing to offer for the zeale of Gods house and honour. He lay not above a week in the Cloister, and as soone as he was dead, all his body, his head and face did so swell, that the least touch upon any part of him caused the skin to break and cast out white matter, which had corrupted and overflowne all his body. A Gentlewoman with whom I was well acquainted in that City, who was noted to be somewhat too familiar with one of the Bishops Pages, was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of Chocolatte to be ministred by the Page which poysoned him who so rigorously had forbidden Chocolatte to be drunk in the Church. My self heard this Gentlewoman say of the deceased Bishop, that she thought few grieved for his death, & that the women had no reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an enemy to Chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk at home in his house had not agreed with his body. And it became afterwards a Proverbe in that Country, Beware of the Chocolatte ofChiapa; which made me so cautious, that I would not drinke afterwards of it in any house, where I had not very great satisfaction of the whole Family. The women of this City are somewhat light in their carriage, and have learned from the Devill many entising lessons and baits to draw poore soules to sinne and damnation; and if they cannot have their wills, they wil surely work revenge either by Chocolatte or Conserves, or some faire present, which shall surely carry death along with it. The Gentlewoman that was suspected (nay was questioned for the death of the Bishop) had often used to send me boxes of Chocolatte or conserves; which I willingly received from her, judgingit to be a kind of gratuity for the paines I tooke in teaching her sonLatin. She was of a very merry and pleasant disposition, which I thought might consist without sin; untill one day she sent unto mee a very faire plantin wrapped up in a hankerchief, buried in sweet Jazmines and roses; when I untied the handkerchief, I thought among the flowers I should find some rich token, or some peeces of eight, but finding nothing but a plantin, I wondred; and looking further upon it, I found worked upon it with a knife the fashion of a heart with two of blind Cupids arrows sticking in it, discovering unto my heart the poisoned heart and thoughts of the poisoner that sent it. I thought it a good warning to be wary and cautious of receiving more presents or Chocolatte from such hands, and so returned unto her againe her plantin with this short rhyme cut out with a knife upon the skinnefruta tan fria, amor no cria, as much as to say, fruit so cold, takes no hold. This answer and resolution of mine was soone spread over that little City, which made my Gentlewoman outragious, which presently she shewed by taking away her sonne from schoole, and in many meetings threatning to play me aChiapanecatricke. But I remembred the Bishops Chocolatte and so was wary, and staid not long after in that poisoning and wicked City, which truly deserves no better relation then what I have given of the simpleDons, and the Chocolatte-confectioningDonna's.
There is yet twelve leagues from this City ofChiapa, anotherChiapawhich deserveth better commendations. This consisteth most ofIndians, and is held to be one of the biggestIndianTownes in allAmerica, containing at least four thousand families. This Towne hath many priviledges from the King ofSpain, and is governed chiefly byIndians(yet with subordination unto theSpanishgovernment of the City ofChiapa) who doe choose anIndianGovernour with other inferiour officers to rule with him. This Governour may wear a rapier and dagger, and enjoyeth many other liberties which to the rest of theIndiansare denied. No Towne hath so manyDonsin it ofIndianblood as this.Don Philip de Guzmanwas Governour of it in my time, a very richIndian, who kept up commonly in his stable a dozen of as good Horses for publike shewes, and ostentation as the bestSpaniardin the Countrey. His courage was not inferiour to anySpaniard, and for defence of some priviledges of his Town sued in the Chancery ofGuatemalathe proud and high minded Governour of the City ofChiapa, spending therein great sums of money till he had overcome him, whereupon he caused a feast to be made in the Towne, both by water and land, so stately, that truly in the Court ofMadridit might have been acted.
This Towne lyeth upon a great river, whereunto belong many boats and Canoas, wherein thoseIndianshave been taught to act sea-fights, with great dexterity, and to represent the Nymphes ofParnassus, Neptune, Æolus, and the rest of the heathenish Gods and Goddesses, so that they are a wonder of their whole nation. They will arme with their boats a siege against the Town, fighting against it with such courage til they make it yeeld, as if they had been trained up all their life to sea-fights. So likewise within the Town they are as dexterous at baiting of buls, atjuego de Cannas, at Horse-races, at arming a Campe, at all manner ofSpanishdances, instruments, and musick as the bestSpaniards. They will erect Towers and Castles made of wood and painted cloth, & from them fight either with the boats or one against another, with squibs, darts, and many strange fire-works, so manfully, that if in earnest they could perform it as well as they do it in sport and pastime, theSpaniardsand Fryers might soon repent to have taught them what they have. As for acting of playes, this is a common part of their solemne pastimes; and they are so generous, that they nothing think too much to spend in banquets & sweet-meats upon their Friers, and neighbouring Towns, whensoever they are minded to shew themselves in a publike feast. The Towne is very rich, & manyIndiansin it that trade about the Country as theSpaniardsdo. They have learned most trades befitting a Common-wealth, and practise and teach them within their Town. They want not any provision of fish or flesh, having for the one that great river joyning unto their Towne, and for the other many Estantia's (as they call them) or farmes abounding with cattell. In this Towne the Dominican Fryers bear all the sway, who have a rich and stately Cloister with another Church or Chappel subordinate unto it. The heat here is so great, that both Fryers andIndianscommonly wear a linnen towel about their necks to wipe off the constant swet from their laces, which maketh the Friers sit longer at their dinner then els they would do, for that at every bit theyeate, and draught they drinke, they are faine to make a stop to wipe their dropping browes. Yet the evenings are fresh and cool, which are much made of there, and spent in the many walkes and gardins which joyne close unto the River side. Two or three leagues from the Towne, there are twoIngenio'sor Farmes of Sugar, the one belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of the City ofChiapa; the other unto the Cloister of this Towne, which containe neer two hundred Blackmores, besides manyIndians, who are imployed in that constant worke of making Sugar for all the Country. Hereabouts are bread great store of Mules, and excellent horses for any service. The Towne ofChiapaof theIndians, and all the Townes about it want nothing but a more temperate climate and cooler aire, and Wheat, which there cannot bee sowne, yet forSpaniardsand such as cannot live without it, it is brought fromChiapaof theSpaniardsand from aboutComitlan; yet this is not generally acknowledged a want by reason of the great plenty ofMaizwhich all the Townes enjoy, and which is now more used both bySpaniardsand dainty toothed Fryers then bread of Wheat. Yet your pooreSpaniards, and someIndianswho have got the trick of trading from them doe gaine not a little in bringing to these Townes bisquets of wheaten bread, which though it be dry and hard, yet because they are novelties to theIndians; they get by changing them for other commodities, especially of Cotton wooll, which here is more abounding then in the Valley ofCopanabastlau.
Upon this Country ofChiapaof theIndiansbordereth the Province ofZoques, which is absolutely the richest part ofChiapa. This reacheth on the one side toTabasco, and by the River namedGrijalvasendeth commonly the Commodities which are in it with safety unto St.John de Ulhua, orVera Cruz. It trafiqueth also with the Country ofJucatanby the Haven calledPuerto Real, which lyeth betweeneGrijalvaandJucatan. Yet these two, the River ofTabasco, alias Grijalva, andPuerto Real, though they bee commodious to this Province ofZoques, yet they are causes of daily feares unto theSpaniards, who well know the weaknesse of them, and that if a forraine Nation should manfully thrust into that Country by any of these two wayes, they might so conquer allChiapa, and from thence passe easily untoGuatemala. But the River ofTabascolying low, and being somewhat hot, and the Towns about it infested with many gnats, and the chiefest commodity there being butCacao, have often discouraged both ourEnglishandHollanders, who have come up some part of the River, and minding more the foresaid reasons, then what was forward to bee had, have turned back, losing a rich Country and slighting an eternall name, for few and frivolous present difficulties. In this Province ofZoques, the Towns are not very bigge, yet they bee very rich; the chief Commodities are Silk andCochinill; whereof the latter is held the best ofAmerica, and the store of it so great that no one Province alone exceeds it. FewIndiansthere are who have not their Orchards planted with the trees whereon the worms breed which yeeld unto us that rich Commodity; not that theIndiansthemselves esteem otherwise of it, then as they see theSpaniardsgreedy after it, offering them mony for it, & forcing them to the preservation of it in those parts, which have proved most successeful for this kind. There is great store of silk in this Country, in so much that theIndiansmake it their great Commodity to imploy their wives in working Towels with all colours of silk, which theSpaniardsbuy, and send intoSpain. It is rare to see what works thoseIndianwomen will make in silk, such as might serve for Patterns and samplers to many School-mistresses inEngland. The people of this Country are witty, and ingenious, and faire of complexion; the Country towardsTabascois hot, but within in some places very cold. There is also plenty ofMaiz, but no wheat; neither is there such plenty of Cattell as aboutChiapa, but Fowles and Turkies as many as in other parts. The Province calledZeldaleslyeth behind this of theZoques, from the North Sea within the continent, running up towardsChiapa, and reacheth in some parts neer to the borders ofComitlannorth-westward. South-eastward it joyns to suchIndianswhich as yet have not been conquered by theSpaniards, who make many invasions upon the ChristianIndians, and burn their Towns, and carry away their Cattell. The chief and head Town in this Province is calledOcocingo, which is a Frontier against those Heathens. This Province is esteemed rich for theSpaniards, who make much ofCacao, which serveth to make their drink ofChocolatte, and here is great store of it. There is also another Commodity, great among theSpaniards, calledAchiotte, wherewith they make theirChocolattelooke of the colour of a brick. Here is also plenty of Hogs and Bacon, Fowles,Turkies, Quailes, Cattell, Sheep, Maiz, Hony, and not farre fromOcocingo, in my time was setting up anIngenio, or Farm of Sugar, which was thought would prove as well as those aboutChiapaof theIndians. The Country in most parts is high and hilly; butOcocingostands in a pleasant Valley, injoying many Brookes and streams of fresh water, and therefore hath been thought a fit place for Sugar. Here also in this Valley the fryers have attempted to sow Wheat, which hath proved very good. Thus Reader, I have shewed you the Country ofChiapa, which as it is compassed about on the one side bySoconuzco, and from thence almost toGuatemala, by the Province ofSuchutepeques, on the other side byTabasco, and on the other side byZeldaleswith excessive plenty ofCacaoandAchiotte, which are the chief drugs for the making ofChocolatte; I wil yet before I depart fromChiapatoGuatemala, say somewhat of that drinke so much used by theSpaniards, and in my judgment not to be sleighted, but rather to bee published and made known to all Nations, whose use might remedy the great abuse of wines and strong drinks which too much are esteemed amongst us here inEurope.
Chocolatte being this day used not onely over all theWest-India's, but also inSpain, Italy, andFlanders, with approbation of many learned Doctors in Physick, among whomAntonio ColmeneroofLedesma; (who lived once in theIndia's) hath composed a learned and curious Treatise concerning the nature and quality of this drink; I thought fit to insert here also somewhat of it concerning my own experience for the space of twelve yeers. This name Chocolatte is anIndianname, and is compounded from Atte, as some say or as others, Atle, which in theMexicanlanguage signifieth water, & from the sound which the water (wherein is put the Chocolatte) makes, as Choco, Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called a Molinet, or Molinillo, untill it bubble and rise unto a froath. And as there it is a name compounded, so inEnglishwee may well call it a compounded or a confectioned drink wherein are found many and severall Ingredients, according to the different disposition of the body of them that use it. But the chief Ingredient (without which it cannot be made) is called Cacao, a kind of nut or kernell bigger then a great Almond, which growes upon a tree called the tree of Cacao, and ripens in a great huske, wherein sometimes are found more, sometimes lesse Cacao's, sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, nay forty, and above. This Cacao, though as every simple, it containes the quality of the foure Elements, yet in the common opinion of most Physitians, it is held to bee cold and dry,a prædominio; It is also in the substance that rules these two qualities, restringent and obstructive, of the nature of the Element of the earth. And as it is thus a mixed, and not a simple Element, it hath parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and particularly it partakes of those which correspond with the Element of Aire, that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by unctious parts; there being drawn out of the Cacao much Butter, which in theIndia'sI have seen drawn out of it by the Criolian women for to oint their faces. And let not this seeme impossible to believe, that this graine or nut of Cacao should bee said to bee first cold and dry, and then hot and moist; for though experience bee a thousand witnesses, yet instances will further clear this truth; and first in the Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are binding, cold and dry, which have a virtue to strengthen, bind and stop the loosenesse of the belly. Secondly, wee see this cleerly in the steel, which having so much of the nature of the earth, as being heavy, thick, cold, and dry, should be thought unproper for the curing of Oppilations, but rather to bee apt to increase them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against them. The authority ofGalenmay further cleare this in the third booke of the Qualities of simples, where hee teacheth that almost all those medicines, which to our sense seemeto be simple, are notwithstanding naturally compounded, containing in themselves contrary qualities, that is to say, a quality to expell, and to retaine, to incrassate and to extenuate, to rarifie and to condense. And in the fifteenth Chapter following in the same booke, he puts an example of the broth of a Cock, which moves the belly, and the flesh hath the virtue to binde. Yet further that this differing virtue and quality is found in divers substances, or parts of simple medicaments, he shewes in the first book of his simple medicines in the seventeenth Chapter, bringing the example of milke, in which three substances are found and separated, that is to say, the substance of cheese, which hath the virtue to stop the fluxe of the belly; and the substance of whay, which is purging, and butter, as it is expressed Chap. 15. Also we find in wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner substance, which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froath; and a third substance which we properly call wine; and every one of these substances containes in it selfe divers qualities and virtues, in the colour, in the smell, and in other accidents.
And this is very comformable to reason, if we consider that every aliment, be it never so simple, begets and produceth in the liver four humours, not only differing in temper, but also in substance; and begets more or lesse of that humour, according as the aliment hath more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour, which is most ingendred. From which examples we may gather that when the Cacao is grinded and stirred, the divers parts, which nature hath given it, doe artificially and intimately mixe themselves one with another; and so the unctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy represseth, and leaveth them not so binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocrity, more inclining to the warme, and moist temper of the aire, then to the cold and dry of the earth; as it doth appear, when it is made fit to drink, that scarce two turnes are given with the Molinet, when there ariseth a fatty scum, by which is seen, how much it partaketh of the oyly part. So that from all that hath been said, the error of those is wel discovered, who speaking of this drink of Chocolatte, say, that it causeth oppilations, because Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction were not corrected and modified by the intimate mixing of one part with another, by meanes of the grinding, as is said before. Besides it having so many ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this effect, that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not to binde. And leaving aside more reasons, this truth is evidently seen in the Cacao it selfe; which if it be not stirred, grinded and compounded to make the Chocolatte; but be eaten as it is in the fruit (as many Criolian andIndianwomen eat it) it doth notably obstruct and cause stoppings, and make them looke of a broken, pale and earthy colour, as doe those that eat earthen ware, as pots, or pieces of lime-walls (which is much used among theSpanishwomen thinking that pale and earthy colour, though with obstructions and stoppings, well becomes them) and for this certainly in the Cacao thus eaten there is no other reason, but that the divers substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled by the mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which wee have spoken of before.
The tree which doth beare this fruit, is so delicate, and the earth where it groweth so extream hot, that to keep the tree from being consumed by the sunne, they first plant other trees, which they call,las Madres del Cacao, mothers of the Cacao; and when these are grown up to a good height fit to shade the Cacao trees, then they plant the Cacaotals, or the trees of Cacao; that when they first shew themselves above the ground, those trees, which are already grown may shelter them, and as mothers nourish, defend, and shadow them from the sunne; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but many of them (as I have said before) are in one great huske or cod, and therein besides every grain is closed up in a white juicy skin, which the women also love to suck off from the Cacao, finding it coole, and in the mouth dissolving into water. There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a darke colour inclining towards red, being round and peeked at the ends; the other is broader, and bigger, and flatter, and not so round, which they call, Patlaxte, and this is white, and more drying, and is sold a great deal cheaper then the former. And this especially, more then the other, causeth watchfullnesse, and drives away sleep, and therefore is not so usefull as the ordinary, and is chiefly spent by the ordinary and meaner sort of people. As for the rest of the ingredients which make this Chocolatticall confection, there is notable variety; for some put into it black Pepper, which is not well approved of by the Physitians,because it is so hot and dry, but onely for one who hath a very cold liver; but commonly instead of this Pepper, they put into it long red Pepper, called Chile, which though it be hot in the mouth, yet is cool and moist in the operation. It is further compounded with white Sugar, Cinnamon, Clove, Anniseed, Almonds, Hasell-nuts,Orejuela, Bainilla, Sapayoll, Orenge flower water, some Muske, and as much of Achiotte, as will make it looke of the colour of a red bricke. But how much of each of these may be applyed to such a quantity of Cacao, the severall dispositions of mens bodies must be their rule. The ordinary receipt ofAntonio Colmenerowas this; To every hundred Cacao's, two cods of Chile, called long red Pepper, one handfull of Anniseed andOrejuela's, and two of the flowers calledMechasuchil, orBainilla, or instead of this six roses ofAlexandria, beat to powder, two drams of Cinnamon, of Almonds and Hasel-nuts, of each one dozen; of white Sugar halfe a pound, of Achiotte, enough to give it the colour. This Author thought neither Clove, nor Musk, nor any sweet water fit, but in theIndia'sthey are much used. Others use to put in Maiz, orPaniso, which is very windy; but such doe it onely for their profit, by increasing the quantity of the Chocolatte; because every fanega or measure of Maiz containing about a bushel and a half, is sold for eight shillings, and they that sell Chocolatte, sell it for four shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price. The Cinnamon is held one of the best ingredients, and denied by none, for that it is hot and dry in the third degree, it provokes urine, and helpes the kidneys and reines of those who are troubled with cold diseases, and it is good for the eyes, and in effect it is cordiall, as appeareth by the Author of these verses,
Commoda & urinæ Cinamomum & renibus affert,Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat.
TheAchiottehath a piercing, attenuating quality, as appeareth by the common practice of the Physitians in theIndia's, experienced daily in the effects of it, who do give it to their Patients to cut and attenuate the grosse humors, which doe cause shortnesse of breath, and stopping of urine: and so it is used for any kind of oppilations, and is given for the stoppings which are in the breast, or in the region of the belly, or any other part of the body. ThisAchiottealso groweth upon a tree in round huskes, which are full of red graines, from whence theAchiotteis taken, and first made into a paste, and then being dried up is fashioned either into round balls or cakes, or into the forme of little brickes, and so is sold. As concerning the long red Pepper, there are foure sorts of it; one is calledChilchotes; the other is very little, which they callChilterpin, and these two kinds are very quick and biting. The other two are called,Tonalchiles, and these are but moderately hot, for they are eaten with bread by theIndians, as they eat other fruits. But that which is usually put into Chocolatte, is calledChilpaclagua, which hath a broad huske, and is not so biting as the first, nor so gentle as the last. TheMechasuchil, orBainillahath a purgative quality. All these ingredients are usually put into the Chocolatte, and by some more, according to their fancies. But the meaner sort of people, asBlackmoresandIndians, commonly put nothing into it, butCacao, Achiotte, Maiz, and a fewChileswith a little Anniseed. And though theCacaois mingled with all these ingredients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater quantity ofCacao, then of all the rest of the ingredients, which serve to temper the coldnesse of theCacao; from whence it followeth that this Chocolatticall confection is not so cold as theCacao, nor so hot as the rest of the ingredients, but there results from the action and reaction of these ingredients, a moderate temper, which may be good, both for the cold and hot stomacks, being taken moderately.
Now for the making or compounding of this drinke, I shall set downe here the method. The Cacao, and the other ingredients must be beaten in a morter of stone, or (as theIndiansuse) ground upon a broad stone, which they callMetate, and is only made for that use. But first the ingredients are all to be dried, except theAchiotte, with care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; for if they be overdried, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The Cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first beaten, with the Anniseed, and then the Cacao, which must be beaten by little and little, till it be all powdred; and in the beating it must be turned round, that it may mixe the better. Every one of these ingredients must be beaten by it selfe, and then all be put into the vessell, where the Cacao is, which you must stirre together with a spoon, and then take out thatpaste, and put it into the morter, under which there must be a little fire, after the confection is made; but if more fire be put under then will only warme it, then the unctuous part will dry away. TheAchiottealso must be put in in the beating, that it may the better take the colour. All the ingredients must be searsed, save onely the Cacao, and if from the Cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the better. When it is well beaten, and incorporated (which will be known by the shortnesse of it) then with a spoon (so in theIndia'sis used) is taken up some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, or else without a spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard. Those that make it into tablets, put a spoonefull of the paste upon a peece of paper (theIndiansput it upon the leaf of a plantin tree) where, being put into the shade (for in the sunne it melts and dissolves) it growes hard; and then bowing the paper or leaf, the tablet falls off, by reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if it be put into anything of earth, or wood, it stickes fast, and will not come off, but with scraping or breaking. The manner of drinking it, is divers; the one (being the way most used inMexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a tablet in hot water, and then stirring and beating it in the cup, where it is to be drunke, with a Molinet, and when it is well stirred to a scumme or froath, then to fill the cup with hot Atolle and so drinke it sup by sup. Another way is, that the Chocolatte, being dissolved with cold water and stirred with the Molinet, and the scumme taken off and put into another vessel; the remainder be set upon the fire, with as much sugar as will sweeten it, and when it is warme, then to powre it upon the scum which was taken off before, and so to drinke it. But the most ordinary way, is, to warme the water very hot, and then to powre out halfe the cup full that you mean to drinke; and to put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably the water, and then grind it well with the Molinet, and when it is well ground and risen to a scum, to fill the cup with hot water, and so drinke it by sups (having sweetned it with Sugar) and to eat it with a little conserve, or maple bread, steeped into the Chocolatte. Besides these waies there is another way (which is much used in the Island ofSanto Domingo) which is, to put the Chocolatte into a pipkin, with a little water, and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved, and then to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of the Chocolatte, and then to boyle it againe, untill there comes an oily scumme upon it, and then to drinke it. There is another way yet to drinke Chocolatte, which is cold, which theIndiansuse at feasts, to refresh themselves, and it is made after this manner. The Chocolatte (which is made with none or very few ingredients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially when the Cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay aside in a little dish by it selfe, and then put sugar into that part from whence was taken the scum, and then powre it from on high into the scumme, and so drinke it cold. And this drinke is so cold, that it agreeth not with all mens stomacks; for by experience it hath been found, that it doth hurt, by causing pains in the stomack, especially to women. The third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not bee used as well inEnglandas in other parts both hot and cold; for where it is so much used, the most, if not all, as well in theIndia's, as inSpaine, Italy, Flanders(which is a cold Countrey) find that it agreeth well with them. True it is, it is used more in theIndia's, then in theEuropeanparts, because there the stomackes are more apt to faint then here, and a cup of Chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomack. For my self I must say, I used it twelve yeers constantly, drinking one cup in the morning, another yet before dinner between nine or ten of the clock; another within an houre or two after dinner, and another between four and five in the afternoon; and when I was purposed to sit up late to study, I would take another cup about seven or eight at night, which would keep me waking till about midnight. And if by chance I did neglect any of these accustomed houres, I presently found my stomacke fainty. And with this custome I lived twelve yeers in those parts healthy, without any obstructions, or oppilations, not knowing what either ague, or feaver was. Yet I will not dare to regulate by mine owne the bodies of others, nor take upon me the skil of a Physitian, to appoint and define at what time and by what persons this drinke may be used. Onely I say, I have known some that have been the worse for it, either for drinking it with too much sugar, which hath relaxed their stomackes, or for drinking it too often. For certainly if itbe drunke beyond measure, not only this Chocolatte but all other drinkes, or meats, though of themselves they are good and wholesome, they may be hurtfull. And if some have found it oppilative, it hath come by the too too much use of it; as when one drinkes overmuch wine, instead of comforting and warming himselfe, he breeds and nourisheth cold diseases, because nature cannot overcome it, not turne so great a quantity into good nourishment. So he that drinkes much Chocolatte, which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all the parts; and that part which remaines in the slender veines of the liver must needs cause oppilations and obstructions. But lastly, to conclude with thisIndiandrinke, I will adde what I have heard Physitians of theIndia'ssay of it, and have seen it by experience in others (though never I could find it in my selfe) that those that use this Chocolatte much, grow fat and corpulent by it; which indeed may seem hard to beleeve; for considering that all the ingredients, except the Cacao, doe rather extenuate, then make fat, because they are hot and dry in the third degree. And we have already said, that the qualities which doe predominate in Cacao, are cold and dry, which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body. Neverthelesse it may be answered that the many unctuous parts, which have been proved to be in the Cacao, are those which pinguifie and make fat; and the hotter ingredients of this composition serve for a guide, or vehicall, to passe to the liver, and the other parts, untill they come to the fleshy parts; and there finding a like substance which is hot and moist, as is the unctuous part, converting it selfe into the same substance, it doth augment and pinguifie. But how then might this Cacao with the otherIndianingredients be had inEngland? even by trading inSpainefor it, as we doe for other commodities; or not sleighting it so much as we and theHollandershave often done upon theIndianseas; of whom I have heard theSpaniardssay that when we have taken a good prize, a ship laden with Cacao, in anger and wrath we have hurled over board this good commoditie, not regarding the worth and goodnesse of it, but calling it in badSpanish, Cagaruta de Carnero, or sheeps dung in goodEnglish. It is one of the necessariest commodities in theIndia's, and nothing enrichethChiapain particular more then it, whither are brought fromMexicoand other parts, the rich bags of Patacons onely for thisCagaruta de Carnero, which we call sheeps dung. The other drinke which is much used in theIndiansis called Atolle, of which I will say but a little, because I know it cannot be used here. This was the drinke of the ancientIndians, and is a thick pap made of the flower of Maiz, taking off the huskes from it, which is windy and melancholy. This is commonly carried by theIndianwomen to the Markets hot in pots, and there is sold in cups. The Criolian students, as wee goe to a Taverne to drink a cup of wine, so they go in company to the publike Markets, and as publikely buy and drinke by measure of this Atolle; which somtimes is seasoned with a little Chile, or long Pepper, and then it pleaseth them best. But the Nuns and Gentlewomen have got a trick of confectioning it with Cinnamon, Sweet-waters, Amber, or Muske, and store of Sugar, and thus it is held to be a most strong and nourishing drinke, which the Physitians doe prescribe unto a weake body, as we doe here our Almond-milke. But of whatEnglandnever knew nor tasted, I will say no more, but hasten my penne toGuatemala, which hath been my secondpatria.
The time now being come that I was to leave the little City ofChiapa, I took some occasion before-hand to take my leave of my best friends, whose children I had taught, and at my departure I must confesse I found them kind and bountifull, except it wereDonna Magdalena de Morales, from whom I did not expect, neither did I desire any farewell, or Adieu token. But among all, the Governours wife was most liberall unto mee, sending mee many boxes of Aromaticall Chocolatte, and one extraordinary great box with foure severall divisions of different conserves gilt over, besides many Maple breads, and Biskets made with Egs and Sugar, a present it was which might have been sent to a greater man then to a poor worthlesse Mendicant Fryer, and with this in a handkerchief a dozen peeces of eight.Don Melchor del Velazcoyet exceeded her, in words and complements I meane, but in deeds, hee and all the crew of the Criolians must thinke to come short of them, who are borne inSpain. The first Town I went unto, wasTheopixca, six leagues fromChiapa, a faire and great Towne ofIndians, who are held to bee next unto theIndiansof the otherChiapain sitting and riding a horse. In this town is nothing so considerable as the Church, which is great and strong, and the musick belonging unto it sweet and harmonious. The Vicar or Curate of this place was one FryerPeter Martira Criolian, whom I knew could not indure the Prior nor mee, yet he would dissemble a love complementall exceeding well, and in outward shews raise it up togradus ut Octo. He knowing my prevalency with the Prior, durst not but give mee very good entertainment, which continued two dayes, untill I was weary of his complements.
The third day I tooke my leave of him, who would not yet leave mee, but would conduct mee toComitlan, whither I was invited by the Prior of that Cloister, named FryerThome Rocolano, aFrenchman, who being a stranger to theSpaniards(for besides him and my selfe there was no other stranger in that County) desired acquaintance with mee, which hee began to settle by meeting mee at the half way with manyIndianson horse back, having provided an harbour where wee might more conveniently conferre and rest while our Chocolatte and other refreshments were provided. But the CriolianPeter Martirwas not a little envious, (as I was afterwards informed in the Cloister) to see mee so much made of and esteemed in the Country, yet his faire words and complements farre exceeded the sincerity and down-rightnesse of myFrenchfriend. AtComitlanI staied a whole weeke, riding about with the Prior unto theIndiantownes, and downe the hill to the valley ofCopanabastla, where I injoyed much pastime and recreation among the Fryers andIndiansand was feasted after the manner of that Country, which knoweth more of an Epicurian diet then dothEngland, or any part ofEurope; nay I am perswaded (and I have heardSpaniardsconfesse it) thatSpainhath taken from theIndianssince the conquest many lessons for the dressing of severall dishes and compleating a feast or banquet. After the week was ended myFrenchfriend the Prior conducted mee toIzquintenango, to see mee well furnished up the Mountaines ofCuchumatlanes. This Towne (as I have formerly observed) standeth almost at the end of the Valley ofCopanabastla, and within two leagues of theCuchumatlanes. It is one of the finestIndianTownes of all the Province ofChiapa, and very rich, by reason of the much Cotton wooll in it, and especially by reason of its situation, for standing in the Roade way toGuatemala, all the Merchants of the Country that trade with their mules that way, passe through this Towne, and there buy and sell, enriching it with mony and farre brought Commodities. It is most plentifully stored with fruits, especially with what they call Pina's or Pine fruit. It standeth close by the great River, which runneth toChiapaof theIndians, and hath its spring not farre off from theCuchumatlanes, and yet at this Town is very broad and deep. No man nor beast travelling toGuatemalacan goe into it, or fromGuatemalacan goe out of it, but by ferrying over. And the Rode being much used and beaten by travellers,and by such as they call Requas of mules (every Requa consisting of fifty or threescore mules) this Ferry is day and night imployed, and yeelds much treasure to the town at the yeers end. TheIndiansof the Town besides the ferry boat, have made many other little boats, or Canoa's to goe up and down the River. Hither when the Prior ofComitlanhad brought me, we were waited for by the Vicar or Fryer of that Town with the chief and principallIndians, and most of the Canoa's. As we ferryed over, the little Canoa's went before us with the Quiristers of the Church singing before us, and with others sounding their Waits and Trumpets. The Fryer that lived in this Town, was called FryerGeronymo de Guevara, little in stature, but great in state, pride and vanity, as hee shewed himself in what hee had provided for us both of fish and flesh. A brave professour or vower of Mendicancy and poverty he was, who in twelve yeers that hee had lived in that Towne, what by mumming of Masses for the dead and living, what by shearing and fleecing the pooreIndians, what by trading and traffiquing with the Merchants that used that Rode, had got six thousand Duckats, which hee had sent toSpainto the Court ofMadrid, to trade with them Simoniacally for the Bishoprick ofChiapa, which if he obtained not, (yet when I came out of that Country the report went that hee had obtained it) hee would and was well able with a second supply to obtaine a better. After two daies feasting with him, hee and the Prior ofComitlanboth joyned their power and authority to see mee well manned withIndians, to the first Towne of theCuchumatlanes. A mule was prepared to carry my bedding, (which wee commonly carried with us in chests of leather called Petaca's) anotherIndianto carry my Petaquilla wherein was my Chocolatte and all implements to make it; and three moreIndiansto ride before and behinde to guide me; but to all these nothing was to be paid, (lest a custome of paying should bee brought in, for so they doctrined mee as a novice in that Country) except it were to give them a cup of Chocolatte if I drank in the way, or when I came to my journeys end. Here I tooke my leave of my goodFrenchfriend, (who yet continued friendship with mee by frequent letters toGuatemala) and of my low but high mindedGuevara, who bad mee expect no friendly entertainment, untill I were well passed over theCuchumatlanesand arrived atSacapula, which was foure daies journey from thence. Yet hee told mee I might demand what service I list from theIndians, and call for what I had a minde to eat without paying any mony, so that I did write down my expences in the common Town Book.
Thus I went away from my friends somewhat heavy having no other company but unknowneIndians, leaving a pleasant and delightsome valley behind mee, and seeing nothing before mee but high and steepy hils and mountaines, and considering that in foure or five dayes I should see no more gallant Dominicans and of mine own profession. Now I wished I had the company of myMelendezand other friends, who were a comfort one to another upon the hills and rocks ofMaquilapa. Yet at last I concluded, upEnglishheart and courage,quondam hæc meminisse juvabit. Though the mountaines seemed high afar off, yet as I travelled on, I found the way lie between them very easie and passable, and met now and then Requas of mules, which were no little comfort unto mee to consider, if they being heavily laden could goe through those Mountaines, my mule that had in mee but a light burden would easily overcome any danger; it comforted mee also to consider that there were Townes (though but little ones) where I might rest every night. The further I went, the better and more open I found the Rode; Onely the raine and dirt troubled me, which I could not avoid, it being the end ofSeptember, or as there they reckon, the end of winter. The first Town I came to amongst those Mountaines was called St.Martin, a little place of some twenty houses; I went to the house that belonged to the Franciscan Fryers (who seldome in the yeer came to that poverty of house and house roome) where I lighted and caused theIndiansto bee called who were appointed to give attendance to travellers and passengers. I found them very tractable and dutifull, bidding mee welcome, bringing mee hot water for my Chocolatte, which I drunke off heartily, and gave unto myIndiansofIzquintenango, who refreshed themselves and their mules well for nothing, this being a custome among those Townes in the Rode to welcome one another whensoever they come with travellers. I might have had for my supper any thing that place would afford, but I made choice of a pullet, which I thought would bee cheapest for the pooreIndians. I was glad I had brought with mee a goodbig Frasco, as they call it, or bottle of wine, for I began already to find theCuchumatlanescooler then the valley ofCopanabastla. My bed was made in a little thatched Cobe, andIndianboyes appointed to sleep in the next room to me, and to be at hand if in the night I should want any thing. Thus having appointed what attendance I had need of in the morning to the next Town, discharging theIndiansthat had brought me fromIzquintenango, I went unto my rest, which I tooke as quietly as if I had been in the company of my best friends. The next day being accompanied by twoIndians, having sent my carriage by another, I tooke my journey to the next Towne, which is calledCuchumatlan grande, because it standeth on the highest part of those Mountaines, and in the way theIndiansshewed mee the head spring or fountaine of the great River ofChiapaof theIndians, which is the onely remarkable thing in that Rode.Cuchumatlan grandeis a Towne a little bigger then St.Martin, and ofIndiansvery curteous, who are used and beaten to daily travellers, and so make very much of them. Here I was entertained as the night before; and found the pooreIndianswilling to give mee whatsoever I demanded for my better and safer guiding and conducting the next day, and that night for my supper what I pleased to call for, without any pay, but onely writing down my name and expences with the day and moneth in their common booke of accounts. This are those poore wretches brought to by the Fryers and commanding Justices, though of themselves they have no more then a Milpa of Maiz as they terme it, or a littleIndianWheat Plantation, with as much Chile as will suffice them for the yeer, and what the Merchants and Travellers give them voluntarily, which is little enough. From this Town I would not follow the Rode to the next, which was a long journy of seven or eight leagues without baiting by the way; and also because I had beene informed atChiapaand atCopanabastlaof a strange picture of our Lady, which was amongst these Mountaines in a little Towne ofIndianscalledChiantla, which in this dayes journy being not above a league out of my way, I was resolved to see. The wayes were bad, lying out of the Rode, yet by noon I got toChiantla, which is a Town belonging unto Mercenarian Fryers, who doubtlesse would not be able to subsist in so poore a place, had they not invented that loadstone of their picture ofMary, and cried it up for miraculous, to draw people farre and neere, and all travellers from the Rode to pray unto it, and to leave their gifts and almes unto them for their prayers and Masses. Such an income of treasure and riches hath beene from deluded and ignorant soules to this beggerly Towne, that the Fryers have had wherewith to build a Cloister able to maintaine foure or five of them. The Church is richly furnished, but especially the high Altar where the picture standeth in a Tabernacle with half a dozen curtaines of Silk, Sattin, cloth of gold, with borders of golden lace before it, wearing a rich Crowne of gold, thickly beset with Diamonds and other pretious stones. There hang before it at least a dozen rich lampes of silver; and in the vestry of the Church are many gownes, Candlestickes of silver, Censers to burn Frankincense before it, besides rich Copes, Vestments, Ornaments for the Altar, and hangings for all the Church.