The above are also excellent seasoned, dipped into eggs, and bread-crumbed previous to broiling; for lamb chops proceed precisely the same, only broiling them a few minutes less.
No. 151.Veal Cutlets.Cut four cutlets from the neck, half an inch in thickness, beat lightly with a chopper, and cut off the chine-bones, season them well; have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip them, then into bread-crumbs, take out, pat gently with a knife, and broil rather more than ten minutes upon a gridiron over a good fire, turning occasionally, keening them of a very light brown colour; dress upon a dish, spreading a piece of the maître d hôtel butter over each, turning them two or three times in the dish, and serving very hot. Veal cutlets are also very good served with the new sauce as for fillets of beef or steaks, and the fried potatoes around them.
No. 152.Pork Chops.Take four chops from a loin of pork, each about half an inch in thickness, beat them lightly, trim, season well with pepper and salt, broil nearly a quarter of an hour over a good fire, and serve very hot upon a dish, with or without apple-sauce in a boat.
No. 153.Pork or Veal Chops Fried.Put one ounce of butter in a sauté or frying-pan, rub over the bottom, lay in four chops, well seasoned as in either of the last two; place the pan over a moderate fire, when the chops become coloured upon one side turn them over, they will require turning two or three times before done; when done, and of a nice colour, take them out, and place upon a dish; put a spoonful of chopped onions in the pan, which fry until becoming of a brownish colour, then take off as much of the fat as possible, add a teaspoonful of flour (mix well with a wooden spoon), and moisten with half a pint of water; stir quickly, add a bay-leaf, and when boiling season with half a saltspoonful of pepper, two of salt, one of sugar, and two spoonfuls of vinegar, stir over the fire until forming a sauce, when again lay in the chops, let simmer five minutes, dress the chops upon a dish, add two chopped gherkins to the sauce, which pour over and serve; a little brown colouring (No. 146) added to the sauce would improve their appearance.
No. 154.Hashed Beefis made from any description of roast beef. It may also be made from stewed, but roast is preferable. Cut about a pound and a half of meat into thin slices, using a small quantity of the fat; lay them upon a dish, sprinkle a spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper, place the meat in a stewpan, moisten with half a pint of water or light broth, if handy; add a little colouring (No. 146) to give a nice brown colour, place it upon the fire, allowing it to warm gently, stirring occasionally, simmering a quarter of an hour, taste if requiring more seasoning, if so add a little and serve very hot immediately. In making a hash of any description, avoid having to keep it hot as much as possible, or it would become greasy, and likewise prevent the hash boiling over the fire, which would cause the meat to eat hard and tough. If the beef has been well roasted, as described (page 639), the remainder, being underdone, makes an excellent and very nutritious hash.
To vary any description of hash, it may be served upon a large piece of buttered toast, or half a spoonful of chopped onions may be added with the flour and seasoning; chopped parsley may also be added with a spoonful of catsup, two of Harvey sauce, two of vinegar, or one of Chili vinegar; four nice green gherkins in slices may also be added at the time of serving. Some fresh mushrooms from the fields, cleaned, and stewed in the hash, is also a great improvement, a bay-leaf also added imparts a pleasant flavour. A little meat left upon the bones, well peppered and broiled, are frequently served with the hash.
No. 155.Remains of Salt Beef, although very good cold, in winter is very desirable made hot; one of the best methods of doing which is to convert it into that old-fashioned dish entitled bubble-and-squeak; the beef should be, as usual, rather underdone, and cut into slices not thicker than a five-shilling piece, then put two ounces of butter in a sauté or frying-pan, when melted lay in the beef, which place over a quick fire, frying both sides of a yellowish brown colour, when take them out upon a dish, keeping them hot; you have previously boiled six or eight greens or one Savoy cabbage, which chop fine, season with four saltspoonfuls of salt and one of black pepper, place in the same pan you fried the beef in over the fire, keep turning them over until quite hot, when dress upon a dish with the beef over, and serve. A few slices of fat ought to be fried with the beef.
Another way of warming salt beef, is to cut slices and lay in a pan with just sufficient water to cover them; place over the fire, add about an ounce of fresh butter mixed with a little flour, a little Harvey sauce, and a piece of glaze about the size of a walnut, if handy. Another way would be to lay the slices in a saute or frying-pan well buttered, place over the fire and fry a light brown colour, pour off as much of the fat as possible, add a quarter of a pint of water, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, shake round over the fire a minute or two, add two spoonfuls of piccalilly cut in slices, two ditto of the liquor, and one of the colouring (No. 146), and serve over when ready.
No. 156.Ox Tails en Currie.Have ready some ox tails dressed as described in page 273 (they will keep several days in a basin covered with their own stock), when wanted warm them in their stock, cut four onions into very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, fry over a slow fire until the onions become brown and pulpy, whenadd a nicely boiled mealy potato (peeled), a tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, or one and a half of the powder, mix all well together, moisten with three parts of a pint of the stock from the tails; then add the tails, stirring them round gently until well covered with the sauce, set over a slow fire to stew very slowly for half an hour, moving them round occasionally, finish with a little salt and the juice of half a lemon; dress upon a dish pyramidically, pour the sauce, which must be rather thick, over, and serve with rice boiled as directed (page 51) upon a separate dish.
Another way, for a change, would be to introduce four very ripe tomatas at the same time with the potato and currie-powder, omitting the lemon-juice, and adding half a teaspoonful of sugar. A tablespoonful of currie-paste added to any description of hash would convert it into a very good currie.
No. 157.Ragout of Ox Tails.Cut two ox tails into pieces two inches in length, rub two ounces of butter over the bottom of a convenient-sized stewpan, place in the pieces of tails, with half a pound of streaked bacon cut into square pieces the size of walnuts, place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally until nicely browned, but not in the least burnt, add two ounces of flour (mix well) and three pints of water; when boiling and half cooked add a bunch of parsley, with two bay-leaves, twenty young carrots, or pieces of old ones, and twenty button onions, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper; let simmer until the tails and vegetables are quite tender, keeping well skimmed, when take out and dress them in pyramid upon mashed potatoes, garnish round with the vegetables, pass the sauce through a hair sieve into another stewpan, place over the fire, stir with a wooden spoon until adhering to the back, when pour over the tails, and serve very hot.
No. 158.Ox Cheeksare very delicate when well stewed, and may be purchased very cheap; they require soaking all night, and about six hours to blanch in salt water, until the flesh will detach easily from the bone, when take it out, remove the bone, place some onion, carrot, and turnip, in slices, in a large flat stewpan, with a piece of bacon, a few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves, cover with a little stock (if any) or water, place the flesh from the cheek over, put in a moderate oven until very tender, when take up, dress upon a dish, and serve with a sharp sauce over.
Ox cheeks may also be served in currie, or converted into a ragout after blanching, as directed for ox tails.
Should you happen to have the remains of a fresh ox tongue, it would be very good cut in slices, warmed, and served with a sharp sauce, or hashed; the remains of a pickled one may be used in any little made dish of veal, or poultry, hereafter described; to some persons it is, however, preferable cold.
No. 159.Ox Kidneysare very good for breakfast or luncheon; cut the kidneys into thin slices, avoiding the piece in the centre, put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a little chopped eschalots, place over the fire; when becoming a little browned add the kidneys, which keep stirring for five minutes still over the fire, add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), two glasses of sherry, two of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and a bay-leaf, let simmer gently five minutes, not, however, to boil, or they would become hard and indigestible; should the sauce be too thin add a little butter and flour mixed together, it requires to be sufficientlythick to envelope the kidneys; when done poor out upon a dish, and serve very hot. A few raw mushrooms stewed with the kidneys is also a great improvement.
A bullock’s heart is a favorite dish with some persons; soak an hoar in lukewarm water to disgorge, dry, and stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, roast an hour and a half before a moderate fire, and serve very hot, with a little veal sauce (see page 647) around; proceed the same for calves’ or sheep’s hearts, but of course they will require less time.
No. 160.Calf’s Head.Should you have any left from a previous dinner it may be dressed in various ways. To hash calf’s head, cut into good slices not too thin, or it would have a bad appearance; put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a wineglassful of vinegar, six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and a gill of broth, reduce to half over the fire, then add the slices of calf’s head and a gill more broth, season with a little pepper and salt, when quite hot through add half an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of flour, first breaking it into four or five pieces, shake round over the fire until becoming a little thickish, add a little colouring (No. 146) to give a light brown colour; pour out upon your dish, and serve with a few slices of gherkins sprinkled over.
Calf’s head may also be cut in slices, warmed, and served with some of the sauces as directed for fillet of beef, or curried as for the ox-tails (No. 156); hashed calf’s head, with a couple of spoonfuls of currie-paste added, is also very excellent.
No. 161.Calf’s Brains and Tongue.Boil the tongue in stock or water until tender, lay the brains in lukewarm water to disgorge, then carefully take off all the skin, put about a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, rub all over the bottom, cut the brains in slices, lay them in the pan, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, place over a moderate fire, and when set turn them over, add about a gill of melted butter, and a little milk, if too thick, season a little more if required, shake the sauté-pan round, moving the brains from the bottom, but not breaking them, and pour upon a dish, skin and trim the tongue, cut it in halves lengthwise, glaze and serve dressed upon the brains. Sheep and lamb’s tongues and brains are dressed in precisely the same manner as the calf’s.
No. 162.Veal Cutlets, the English Method.Procure a piece of fillet of veal weighing about four pounds, from which (to the best advantage) cut eight or ten pieces of the shape and size of fillets of fowl, season lightly with a little pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs, well beaten, upon a plate, into which dip the cutlets, and afterwards into bread-crumbs, beat lightly; then cut four or five slices of streaked bacon, which fry in a sauté or frying-pan; when done take out and lay in the cutlets, which fry of a nice light brown colour, dress the bacon and cutlets alternately upon your dish, pour as much fat as possible out of the pan, into which pour a quarter of a pint of water, and the same of melted butter; boil until becoming rather thickish, when add a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, a little colouring (No. 146), and a little pepper and salt, boil another second, pass through a sieve over the cutlets, and serve. Veal cutlets cut and fried as above may also be served upon some very light mashed potatoes, omitting the sauce.
No. 163.Sweetbreads.I never can procure sweetbreads at home except in the autumn or winter season of the year, so many families being then out of town, they may be procured at a very reasonable price; I usually dress them thus: lay them in water three or four hours to disgorge, blanch two minutes in boiling water, take out and put them into another stewpan, with a few slices of onions, carrot, turnip, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, six peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a small piece of bacon, cover over with a little broth if any, place over the fire, and let boil about twenty minutes, then take out, dry them on a cloth, egg all over, throw into bread-crumbs, run a skewer through each, tie them to a spit and roast of a nice brown colour before a sharp fire, a quarter of an hour would be sufficient; they might also be browned in a hot oven, or fried in very hot lard or dripping ten minutes; then, however, they must be stewed rather longer; serve them with vegetable garniture of any description, if peas, merely plain boiling them, putting them in a stewpan, with a little sugar, pepper, salt, and a piece of fresh butter, toss them round over the fire until very hot, pour them into the dish, and dress the sweetbreads over, or serve with French beans dressed also in the same manner, spinach dressed as directed (page 43), or merely with the following sauce: put a gill of melted butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of Harvey or Reading sauce, and a little catsup, boil altogether, and if too thick add a little water. If I cannot meet with heart sweetbreads, I in general satisfy myself with the throats.
No. 164.Calf’s Liver Stewed, French fashion.Procure a small delicate liver, cut twenty pieces of fat bacon, three inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, then with a larding-needle run them into the liver crosswise, put two ounces of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, with half a pound of lean uncooked ham, keep stirring over a sharp fire until the ham becomes rather brownish, then lay in the liver, cover the stewpan, stir round occasionally until the liver has become quite firm and of a brownish colour; then add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of one of pepper, forty button onions, twenty young carrots (or twenty pieces of old, previously blanched), half a pint of water, a bunch of parsley, with three sprigs of thyme and two bay-leaves (tied together), four cloves, and a blade of mace, let simmer twenty minutes; then add twenty new potatoes, or old ones cut of the same size, cover the stewpan, and let stew gently until all the vegetables are done, when take out the bunch of herbs, dress the liver upon a dish, with the vegetables and ham around it, skim all the fat from the gravy in the stewpan, pour over the vegetables and serve; if any remain, it is excellent made hot the next day, or even to be eaten cold.
No. 165.Calf’s Liver Fried.Cut the liver into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness, dip them in flour, and fry them in a sauté or frying-pan, in which you have previously fried some slices of streaked bacon, fry the liver until quite browned and rather crisp, when take out and place it upon a dish with the bacon, pour as much of the fat as possible from the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of water, when boiling add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, shake the pan round over the fire until becoming rather thickish, season with a little Harvey sauce, catsup, pepper, and salt, if too thick add a little more water, pour over the liver and serve. Or, for variation, after the liver is well fried, take it outand put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in the pan, set upon the fire a minute, then pour off the greater part of the fat, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, and half a pint of broth or water, boil until forming a thickish sauce, season with pepper, salt, two spoonfuls of vinegar, a little sugar, and half a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, set upon the fire until quite hot, pour over the liver and serve. Or liver may be served plain fried with bacon, without any sauce whatever. Sheep or lamb’s liver may be dressed precisely in the same manner.
With the remains of a joint of veal, either roasted, boiled, or braised, I make mince, hashes, blanquettes, and even pies. For a blanquette of veal cut about a pound into thin slices of the size of half-crown-pieces, add also a few slices of cooked tongue, ham, or streaked bacon, season well with about a teaspoonful of chopped onions, half ditto of salt, and a quarter ditto of white pepper, add a gill of broth or water, warm gently, and when quite hot add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, shake round over the fire, when becoming thickish add half a gill of milk or cream, with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve (it must not boil after the egg and cream have been added) with triangular pieces of toasted or fried bread round. A blanquette of lamb made in the same manner is equally good. With the bones you may make a little stock by chopping them up into small pieces, and putting them into a stewpan, with an onion in slices, a bay-leaf, bunch of parsley, and a little raw ham, add water according to the quantity of bones, and boil rather more than half an hour, convert it into sauce by thickening with a little butter and flour, and use for hash; to make which cut the meat into small thin slices, put into a stewpan, with sufficient of the above sauce to moisten it, let simmer ten minutes, add two spoonfuls of vinegar and four gherkins in slices, season with a little white pepper and salt; pour upon your dish and serve.
No. 166.Minced Veal and Poached Eggsare also a very favorite dish; from the remains of veal cut about a pound of the lean, with a little of the fat, and two ounces of cooked ham into very small dice, put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, place over the fire, keep stirring until the onions change colour slightly, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of stock or milk, let boil ten minutes, add the mince, season well with white pepper and salt, when quite hot stir in a yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, do not let boil afterwards, finish with the juice of half a lemon, and pour upon your dish; have ready poached six eggs, by having a stewpan upon the fire with one quart of water, quarter of an ounce of salt, and a quarter of a gill of vinegar, when boiling break in six eggs separately, let boil from three to four minutes, draw off the fire, take them out with a colander spoon, drain a moment upon a cloth, dress upon the mince, pour a little melted butter over each, and serve with triangular pieces of fried bread round.
Minced lamb, beef, or mutton is done the same, using stock or water instead of milk, and letting the onions with the thickening become a little brown over the fire, likewise omit the yolk of egg and cream, serve with the eggs precisely the same; any kind of mince must be rather thick that the eggs may rest on it. By finishing the minced veal with the yolks of three eggs, stirring a moment over the fire until set, and pouring upon a dish until cold, you can serve it in any shaped croquettes you please, taking pieces from it ofthe size you may require, shaping them with a knife, dipping twice into eggs and bread-crumbs, patting them gently, frying a light brown colour in a stewpan of hot lard or dripping, and serving upon a napkin garnished with fried parsley; they may be made in oblong shapes, the size and length of small sausages, and fried as above: they are then called boudins.
Patties may also be made from cooked veal, preparing a blanquette as before described, and leaving it upon a dish until cold; line six large patty-pans very thinly with half puff paste (see page 480), lay some of the veal in the centre of each, sprinkle a little water over, and cover with sheets of the same paste of the thickness of a five-shilling piece, egg over, crimp the edges a little with a knife, place a leaf of paste upon the top of each, and bake about twenty minutes in a very hot oven until the paste is well done.
The remains of poultry, game, or any other description of meat, may also be converted into patties in the same method as above.
The remains of meat dressed as for the above patties is also very excellent for larger pies, filling the dish with it, when cold covering with paste, and baking in a rather warm oven.
No. 167.Mutton Cutlets Sautés.Cut eight cutlets from a neck of mutton, as directed (page 294), and put them into a sauté-pan, with an ounce of butter, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire, when becoming a little browned turn them over, when firm to the touch they are done (which will take about ten minutes); take up and dress them upon your dish, pour as much of the fat as possible from the pan, add a quarter of a pint of water or broth, let boil until becoming a thin glaze, add a little sugar and a spoonful of Harvey sauce, pour over the cutlets and serve. Should you want a thick sauce you can obtain it by adding a small piece of butter, with which you have mixed a little flour, to the gravy in the sauté-pan, adding also a little colouring (No. 146).
No. 168.Mutton Cutlets Sautés, with Vegetables.Dress the cutlets as in the last, have some vegetables of all kinds (that is, carrots, turnips, artichokes, and button onions), cut up small, stew them in a little broth with a little sugar until tender, when pour them into the sauté-pan you cooked the cutlets in, reduce until the stock becomes a thin glaze, then dress the vegetables in the centre of the cutlets, sauce over, and serve.
No. 169.Mutton Cutlets, Irish Method.Cut eight or ten mutton cutlets, season well with pepper and salt, place them in a stewpan, just cover them with water, let simmer gently twenty minutes, then add forty button onions, and as many pieces of potatoes, cut with a scoop in pieces a size larger; stew until tender, dress the cutlets in a circle upon your dish, with the vegetables in the centre, skim off some of the fat from the stock in the sauté-pan, reduce a little, sauce over, and serve.
No. 170.Mutton Cutlets Broiled.Cut eight or ten cutlets, season well with pepper and salt, dip them into eggs, then into bread-crumbs, beat gently with a knife, have a little butter in a stewpan, which melt over the fire; dip each cutlet into the butter, and again into bread-crumbs, beat again lightly, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire; when lightly coloured upon one side turn them over; they will require about ten minutes to cook thoroughly; serve plain dressed upon your dish.
Dressed as above they may likewise be served with a maître d’hôtel sauce made thus: put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, when boiling add two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (see p. 33), shake the stewpan round over the fire; when quite hot pour in the dish with the cutlets, have ready some thin slices of potatoes fried as for the fillet of beef, dress in pyramid in the centre, and serve.
No. 171.Mutton Cutlets Harricoed.Cut ten cutlets from a neck of mutton, leaving them rather short, not beating them flat, and taking off some of the fat; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, lay in the cutlets, which well season with pepper and salt; set upon a moderate fire, turning them round occasionally until of a lightish brown colour, then add a good spoonful of flour; mix well, and moisten with a quart of water, keep stirring until boiling, throw in twenty small onions, twenty small pieces of carrots, and the same of turnips (each about the size of walnuts), and a small bunch of parsley, with two bay-leaves; let simmer until the vegetables are done, skim well, take out the cutlets, which dress in crown upon a dish, place the vegetables in the centre, reduce the sauce if required, which pour over and serve. Should it be convenient, it would be as well to pass the vegetables by putting about a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar into a stewpan; place over the fire, and when melted add two ounces of butter and the vegetables, which keep tossing over the fire until covered with a kind of glaze, when put them into the stewpan with the cutlets; it gives the harrico quite a peculiar and good flavour.
No. 172.Ragout of Mutton en Currie.Peel and slice four large onions, which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a moderate fire, and when becoming lightly browned and pulpy lay in ten cutlets as in the last; move round occasionally until a little brown, when add a good spoonful of currie-powder and the half of one of flour; mix well, moisten with a pint of water, let simmer twenty minutes, or until the mutton is quite tender, finish with a little sugar, salt, and lemon-juice, take out the cutlets, which dress in circle upon a dish, have ready some boiled rice (p. 51) very hot, which dress in pyramid in the centre; pass the sauce through a tammie, pour over the cutlets, and serve.
No. 173.Mutton Currie.Peel and slice four large onions as in the last, fry the same, have ready two pounds of lean mutton cut into square pieces the size of walnuts, put into the stewpan with the fried onions; let remain ten minutes over the fire, stirring frequently, then add a tablespoonful of currie-powder and one of currie-paste; mix well in, let remain over a slow fire until the mutton is tender, season with a little salt and lemon-juice, pour out upon your dish, and serve with boiled rice separate.
Lamb cutlets are dressed precisely as the mutton; but when bread-crumbed and broiled they are very good served with peas or French beans, previously boiled, and placed in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when quite hot stir in half a gill of cream, with which you have well mixed the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, pour out upon your dish, dress the cutlet over, and serve.
No. 174.Pork Cutlets Sautés.Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from the neck, of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a buttered sauté-pan,season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when done lay them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the sauté-pan, add a good tablespoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute, then add a teaspoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve. This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork.
No. 175.Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons.Cut six or eight cutlets from a middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not too brown); put two ounces of lard or butter into a sauté or frying-pan, lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a dish; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
No. 176.Pork Cutlets, Sauce demi Robert.Cut eight cutlets from a neck as before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped onions and parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to make them adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into bread-crumbs; pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in a stewpan, into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well covering them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling a nice light brown colour; when done dress them upon a dish. Have ready the following sauce: cut two large onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow colour, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and two spoonfuls of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim, and reduce, until rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, one of colouring (No. 146); sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve.
No. 177.Hashed Pork.Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked into thin small slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan; let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if approved of, or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent.
The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered sauté or frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and served with a puree of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over.
No. 178.Pig’s Liver.Procure a nice pig’s liver with the caul, cut theliver into good-sized slices of the shape of hearts, season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, sprinkle chopped eschalots and dried sage over, and fold each piece of liver in a piece of the caul; put some butter in a sauté or frying-pan, lay them in, place over the fire, let fry rather quickly, not too dry; when done it will be a beautiful colour; take out and dress in circle upon your dish; have ready the following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one of catsup, and two of Harvey or Worcestershire sauce; when boiling pour over the liver and serve.
To plain fry it, cut in slices, season with pepper and salt, dip in flour, or eggs and bread-crumbs, fry a light brown in butter or lard, dress in a circle upon your dish, pour a gill of water into the pan, add a little Harvey sauce and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour; let boil a minute, add a little pepper and salt, sauce over and serve.
No. 179.Pigs’ Kidneys.Cut them open lengthwise, season well with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a skewer through to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard, place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute and serve. Pigs’ kidneys may also be sautéd as directed for ox kidneys (No. 159).
No. 180.Black Puddings.Very few people take the trouble to do them at home, it being part of the business of the pork butcher to prepare such delicacies. I shall, however, here describe a very simple method for making them more palatable than those purchased in England, which have so much spice in them as to entirely destroy their delicate flavour. Cut into rather small dice twenty large onions, having cut off the roots, being hard, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of lard or butter, let stew gently, cut three pounds of pig’s flead, free from skin, into small dice, have ready boiled six heads of endive chopped fine, and put into the stewpan with the onions, add two ounces of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, and four spoonfuls of parsley, chopped with a little thyme and bay-leaf; then add six pints of pig’s blood, mix well, leaving no lumps; if too thin add a few handfuls of bread-crumbs, or half a pound of well-boiled rice; have ready the small intestines, which well scrape and wash in salt and water, tie one end upon a tin funnel, having a piece a yard in length, closing it at the other end, fill with the above preparation by pressing through a funnel; take off the funnel, tie up the end, and put them into a stewpan of nearly boiling water, let simmer twenty minutes, pricking them occasionally with a pin; when no blood oozes out they are done; take up and place them upon a dish until cold; when ready to serve cut into pieces four inches in length, cut through the skin at different places, broil ten minutes over a sharp fire, serve plain, but very hot.
These puddings are best made whilst the blood is still warm from the pig, which if killed at home, the other ingredients may be prepared previously. The endive may be omitted, but for a real epicure procure it if possible; they are served in France on the best of tables, and are quite worthy of that honour. Many kinds of black puddings are also made in Scotland, wherethey more frequently use sheep’s blood, using the interior of the sheep, fat and all, in the same proportions as if made of a pig, adding oatmeal, omitting part of the onions, and using the larger entrails.
It being usual in this country to introduce leeks, you must then omit the bread-crumbs and rice, or part of the onions. To prevent the blood curdling, it must be salted, by adding a handful of salt, and whisking well for ten minutes as soon as you obtain it from the pig.
Rice well boiled in broth but not too much so, is an excellent addition to black puddings (half a pound for the above quantity being quite sufficient), or grated bread; leeks also may be used instead of endive, or both may be omitted. I have mentioned these different articles, that if one cannot be procured, another might be used instead, fill also very even, mixing fat and all well together, carefully avoid letting any air get in, or they would burst in boiling.
No. 181.Excellent Sausage Cakes.Chop some lean pork very fine, having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is well chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs; then have ready a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate fire.
No. 182.Pigs’ Feet.Procure six pigs’ feet, nicely salted, which boil in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage meat as in the last, and a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the pigs’ feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley; broil a nice colour and serve with a little plain gravy.
No. 183.Blanquettes of Turkey.With the remains of a roasted or boiled turkey you may make a very nice blanquette, cutting the meat into small thin slices, chop up the bones, and put them into a stewpan with an onion, half a blade of mace, and a very little lean ham or bacon, just cover with water, boil twenty minutes, and with the stock make a white sauce as directed (No. 7, Kitchen of the Wealthy), put the slices into a stewpan, just cover with a little of the sauce, add a little white pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, make all hot together, not, however, allowing it to boil, finish with three tablespoonfuls of cream, mixed with the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, pour out upon a dish, and serve with triangular scippets of fried or toasted bread round. When cucumbers are in season I frequently use one, cutting it in pieces two inches in length, which again split into three, peel, and take out all the seeds, put them into a stewpan, with a few chopped onions, a little butter and sugar, and stew gently over a slow fire until tender; five minutes before serving add them to the blanquette, they being a great improvement.
No. 184.Boudins of Turkey.Cut up all the flesh remaining upon a turkey into small dice, if about a pound and a half, put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a piece of butter of the size of two walnuts, pass a few seconds over the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and the mince, which moisten with a pint of stock made from the bones as in the last, simmer some time, keeping it moved, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, finish with the yolks of three eggs, which stir in quickly over the fire, not allowing it to boil afterwards, pour out upon a dish until cold; just before ready to serve, divide it into equal parts, roll out each to about the size of small eggs, shaping them to fancy, egg and bread-crumb twice over, fry in very hot lard or dripping of a light brown colour, and serve. A little ham or tongue (should you have any left) cut small, and mixed with the mince would be a great improvement.
No. 185.Turban of Croquettes.Croquettes are made precisely as the last, but not more than half the size; when done, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready some of the blanquette of turkey, which serve in the centre.
No. 186.Minced and Grilled Turkey.Detach the leg, wing, or take off the best part of the turkey remaining, which season well with pepper and salt, and broil over a good fire, have ready prepared a mince from the remaining flesh of the turkey, made as directed for the boudins, but omitting the yolks of eggs; when quite hot and well seasoned pour into your dish, and dress the broiled piece upon it.
No. 187.Devilled Turkey.Cut up the remains of your turkey into good-sized pieces or joints, if sufficient, cut incisions crosswise upon each piece, and well rub them with cayenne pepper, broil quickly over a sharp fire, dress them in your dish, and have ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a wineglassful of Chili vinegar, reduce to half, add half a pint of thin melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Worcestershire sauce, boil about a quarter of an hour, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, pour over and serve. Many persons like the above best dry, so it would be as well to serve the sauce separate in a boat, or a little plain gravy only underneath. The remains of poulardes, capons, or fowls may be dressed precisely as directed for the turkey.
No. 188.Goose Hashed.The remains of a goose is only fit for hashing, or devilling, for which proceed as last directed; when for hashing put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass over the fire until becoming rather brown, when add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, cut up the remains of a goose into moderate-sized pieces, season with pepper and salt, add about a pint of stock or water, let simmer ten minutes, when pour out upon a dish and serve. For a variation, a little sage and a couple of apples sliced and cooked in the sauce is very good.
No. 189.Stewed Duck and Peas.Procure a duck trussed with the legs turned inside, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, let remain over a fire, stirring occasionally until lightly browned, when add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of broth or water, stir round gently until boiling, when skim,and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then add a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish (taking away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck and serve.
No. 190.Duckling with Turnipsis a very favorite dish amongst the middle classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but instead of peas use about forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces, having previously fried them of a light yellow colour in a little butter or lard, and drained them upon a sieve; dress the duck upon a dish as before, season the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce until rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this description; the turnips must not, however, be in purée; sauce over and serve.
The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be in season, a pint previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving. The sage and apple must in all cases be omitted.
No. 191.Fricassee of Fowl or Chicken.Cut a fowl or chicken into eight pieces, that is, the two wings and legs dividing the back and breast into two pieces each, wash well, put them into a stewpan and cover with water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a good bunch of parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let boil twenty minutes, pass the stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the pieces of fowl, trim well, then in another stewpan put two ounces of butter, with which mix a good spoonful of flour, moisten with the stock, and put in the pieces of fowl, stir occasionally, until boiling, skim well, add twenty button onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, stir in quickly over the fire, but do not let boil, take out the pieces, dress in pyramid upon your dish, sauce over and serve.
No. 192.Fricassee of Fowl with Mushrooms.Proceed as in the last, but add twenty mushrooms (peeled, if very black), not too large, about ten minutes before adding the cream and yolks of eggs.
No. 193.Currie of Fowl, Oriental Fashion.Peel and cut two large onions into thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, fry them over a slow fire until lightly browned and quite pulpy, then add a good tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, mix well, add half a pint of broth or water, let boil, keeping it stirred, then have a fowl cut into eight pieces, which put in the stewpan, cover well with the currie, add half a pint of cream, let simmer gently three quarters of an hour over a slow fire, stirring occasionally, take out the pieces, dress pyramidically upon a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with rice plain boiled as directed (page 51) on a separate dish.
No. 194.Broiled Fowl.Procure a fowl trussed as for boiling, cut out the back-bone and press quite flat, season well with pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, place in a sauté-pan, fry upon both sides, take out, eggover with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, place upon the gridiron, over a moderate fire, and broil a very light brown colour, glaze over, if any, and serve with a little plain gravy, or mushroom sauce, made by putting half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, with about twenty button mushrooms, well washed, let simmer ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Harvey sauce, finish with a pat of butter, pour the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over and serve. I very frequently also serve it at home with a sauce à la tartare made as directed page 19.
No. 195.Fowl Sautéd in Oil.Cut a fowl in pieces as described for the fricassee, and put them into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of oil, place over the fire and when of a light brown colour add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and moisten with a pint of broth or water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping well skimmed, add a raw truffle cut in slices, or a few mushrooms, season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, take out the pieces of fowl, which dress pyramidically upon your dish, reduce the sauce over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when pour over and serve.
No. 196.Fricassee of Rabbits.Cut two nice young rabbits into very neat joints, or the legs only may be used, and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for half an hour, take out and put them into a stewpan with a large onion cut into slices, two cloves, a blade of mace, a little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon cut in dice; just cover with water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, pass the stock through a sieve, and proceed precisely as for the fricassee of fowl, page 689.
No. 197.Gibelotte of Rabbits.Cut two young rabbits into joints as in the last, cut also half a pound of streaked bacon into dice, fry the bacon in butter in a stewpan, then put in the pieces of rabbits; when slightly browned add a good spoonful of flour, mix well, and moisten with rather more than a pint of water, season with a little salt and pepper, when beginning to boil skim well, add fifty button onions, and a few button mushrooms, if any, let simmer a quarter of an hour, take out the pieces of rabbit, which dress in pyramid upon a dish; let the sauce boil, keeping it stirred, until the onions are quite tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add a little colouring, pour over the rabbit and serve.
No. 198.Currie of Rabbit.Cut four middling-sized onions and two apples in slices, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally, until the onions are slightly browned and quite pulpy, when add two tablespoonfuls of currie-powder and one of currie-paste; mix well, and moisten with half a pint of stock or water, let boil; have ready a couple of young rabbits cut into joints, and fried in butter in a sauté or frying-pan of a nice brown colour, put into the currie sauce, season with a little salt and juice of lemon, let stew very gently over a very slow fire, stirring occasionally, until the rabbit is quite tender, when dress upon your dish, and serve with rice, plain boiled, separate.
The legs only of the rabbits may be dressed in either of the foregoing ways, should the fillets be required for other purposes.
No. 199.Rabbit Pies.Cut two or three rabbits up in joints, and a pound of streaked bacon in slices; butter a pie-dish, lay some of the slices of bacon upon the bottom, dip the pieces of rabbits into flour, place a layer of them over the bacon, season well with pepper and salt, then add another layer of bacon, then rabbit, again seasoning, proceeding thus, building them in a dome above the edge of the dish; have ready a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page 480), with which cover them, ornamenting the top with leaves; egg over lightly, and bake about an hour and a half in a moderate oven, put half a pint of good gravy in with a funnel, and serve.
Rabbits plain boiled and served with onion sauce are also very excellent; make the sauce thus: peel and cut six large onions into very small dice, put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, pass five minutes over the fire, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of flour, mix well, moisten with a pint and a half of milk, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, keep stirring over the fire until the onions are quite tender, and it becomes rather a thickish sauce, when serve over the rabbit.
The remains of rabbits may be warmed and served with the above sauce, made into blanquettes, or minced as directed for turkeys or fowls.
No. 200.Pigeon Pie.Procure four pigeons, but not trussed, and cut off the feet; have a nice tender rump-steak, well seasoned, which dip in flour and lay at the bottom of a buttered pie-dish; place the pigeon over, elevating their tails to meet in the centre, season well with pepper and salt, place a piece of fat bacon over the breast of each bird, sprinkle a few chopped eschalots over, have six eggs boiled, the yolks of which place in the dish, pour in half a pint of water, and cover the pie with a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page 480), ornamenting the top with leaves of paste, sticking the pigeons’ feet in the centre, and brushing eggs lightly over the top; bake about an hour and a half in a moderate oven. Lamb or veal may be used instead of the beef at the bottom, if preferred, and the whole of the eggs, each cut in four lengthwise, instead of the yolks only.
No. 201.Pigeons in Compote.Put half a pound of lean bacon, cut into large dice, in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, pass a few minutes over the fire, then have three pigeons trussed with their legs turned inside, place them in the stewpan with the bacon, breasts downwards, let remain until becoming of a light brown colour, moving them round occasionally; add a tablespoonful of flour, move round until becoming a little browned, moisten with a pint, or a little more, water, mix well, add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, thirty button onions, a little pepper and salt, let simmer three quarters of an hour, skimming well, dress the pigeons upon a dish, with the bacon and onions round, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, pour over and serve.
No. 202.Stewed Pigeons with Peas.Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding nearly a quart of very fresh peas with the onions and parsley, omitting the bay-leaf; dress the pigeons upon a dish, pour the peas and sauce over when ready to serve.
GAME.—No. 203.Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse, Black Game, Woodcocks, etc., by the greater part of the population are preferred plain roasted, which is, in my opinion, the best; but by way of change, and for the methodof dressing the remains of any description of birds, I have given the few following simple receipts:
No. 204.Small Pheasants, the Miller’s Fashion.Roast a pheasant as directed (page 403), previously dipping it in flour, and occasionally shaking flour over whilst roasting, thus it will be very crisp and keep nearly white; put the crumb of two French rolls in a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt; let boil, take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of buttered toast upon your dish, pour the sauce over, dress the pheasant upon the top, and serve; a little gravy may also be served separate in a boat.
No. 205.Pheasant with Cabbage.Procure a nice white-heart winter cabbage, which cut in quarters, and blanch five minutes in boiling water, drain quite dry, cut off part of the stalk, season well with salt, place it in a stewpan, with half a pound of streaked bacon and a pint of broth, and stew gently for about half an hour; then have a pheasant about three parts roasted, thrust it into the cabbage whilst hot, and let the whole stew gently together half an hour longer; take out the pheasant and cabbage, squeezing it to the sides of the stewpan to extract the stock, dress the cabbage in pyramid upon your dish, with the pheasant upon the top, dress the bacon, cut in slices, around, skim the stock well, let reduce to half, pour round and serve.
No. 206.Hashed Pheasant.From the remains of a pheasant previously served, make a hash in the following manner: cut it up into smallish pieces and put them into a stewpan, with a little flour, half a glass of port wine, a little pepper and salt, and a bay-leaf, and sufficient broth (or water with a piece of glaze in it) to moisten it; let simmer very gently five minutes, take out the pieces, dress them upon your dish, pass the sauce through a hair sieve over, and serve.
No. 207.A Plain Salmi of Pheasants.Cut off and trim well the best pieces remaining of pheasants, previously served, and put them into a stewpan; then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings (broken up small), with an onion in slices, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, four peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil a few minutes; then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and moisten by degrees with a pint of broth (or water with a piece of glaze), boil about ten minutes, keeping it stirred; when thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, pass through a tammie or fine sieve, into the other stewpan over the pieces of pheasants, warm altogether gently, not allowing it to boil, colour a little brown with half a spoonful of colouring (page 673), take out the pieces, dress in pyramid sauce over, and serve with scippets of fried or toasted bread, cut in the shape of hearts, round.
The remains of pheasants may be minced and served with eggs boiled five minutes, and the shells taken off, or made into boudins or croquettes as directed for turkey (page 687), as may any other description of game.
No. 208.Grouse, Scotch Fashion.Plain roast the grouse, dress them upon toast on your dish, and serve with plain melted butter poured over them; they may also be dressed in any of the ways directed for pheasants, with the exception of being stewed with the cabbage; black game is dressed precisely the same as the grouse.
No. 209.Partridges à la Jardinière.Have a plain round tin cutter, with which cut about forty pieces of carrot and turnip, each about the thickness of a quill, and half an inch in length; put them into a stewpan with twenty button onions, two ounces of butter, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; pass over a sharp fire until the vegetables become covered with a thinnish glaze, when add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of stock or gravy; let simmer until the vegetables are tender, keeping it well skimmed. Roast two partridges rather underdone, which put into the sauce twenty minutes before serving; let simmer very gently, skim off all the fat, dress the birds upon a dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over, and serve.
No. 210.Partridges with Cabbage.Proceed exactly as described for the pheasant, but using two birds instead of one: if convenient, it would be a great improvement to lard the breasts of the birds with fat bacon.
No. 211.Partridges sautéd with Mushrooms.Divide two partridges each into halves, beat them a little flattish, put two or three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil into a flat stewpan, lay in the partridges, the inner side downwards, first seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots; place over a moderate fire, put a cover upon the stewpan, and let remain until of a light brown colour; remove the lid, turn the partridges over, and let remain until coloured the other side; then pour off a little of the oil, add a tablespoonful of flour, turn round until well mixed, add a good glassful of sherry, half a pint of stock or water, and twenty small button mushrooms; let simmer until the partridges are tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them; having kept it well skimmed, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, if required; lay the partridges upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
The remains of partridges may be hashed or served in a plain salmi, precisely as directed for pheasants.
No. 212.Woodcocks, Downshire Fashion.Plain roast the woodcocks as directed (page 407), catching their tails upon toast, upon which, when done, dress the birds upon a dish; pour a thick melted butter (with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg and a little cream) over, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander a light brown colour, and serve with a little gravy round.
No. 213.Woodcocks à la Chasseur.Roast two woodcocks rather underdone, catching the interior upon a large piece of toast; when done, cut each one in four, and place in a stewpan with the remainder of the interior, chopped small; add a little pepper and salt, a glass of sherry, a little chopped eschalots, parsley, the juice of half a lemon, and half a gill of broth; let simmer a few minutes, dish rather high upon the toast, sauce over, and serve.
No. 214.Hashed Woodcocks.Should you have any remaining from a previous dinner, cut each one in four or more pieces; chop all that remains in the interior, which mix with a small piece of butter, a spoonful of bread-crumbs, and a little chopped parsley, make six croutons in the shape of hearts from a piece of toasted bread, spread the above preparation upon each, and place a short time in the oven; hash the pieces as directed for the pheasant, dress in pyramid on a dish, with the croutons round, sauce over, and serve.
No. 215.Snipes à la Minute.Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts downwards; add a spoonful of chopped onions, one ditto of parsley, a little grated nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; set over a brisk fire seven or ten minutes (according to the size of the birds), stirring occasionally, then add the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry or bucellas wine, and a spoonful of finely-grated crust of bread; let the whole simmer a few minutes, dress the birds upon a dish, mix the sauce well, pour over, and serve.
No. 216.Plovers, with English raw Truffles.Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, over which place four plovers, breasts downwards, and eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut into thickish slices; add also two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally; add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with a gill of broth and a glass of white wine, let simmer ten minutes longer, skim well, dress the birds upon a dish, reduce the sauce, add a little sugar and the juice of a lemon, sauce over, and serve.
No. 217.Wild Duck.Truss as directed (p. 688, No. 189), rub all over with the liver, making it quite red, and roast twenty minutes before a good fire, then with a sharp knife cut eight incisions down the breast; you have put an ounce of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, the rind of an orange, free from pith, cut in strips, blanched in boiling water, and well drained upon a sieve, and the juice of a lemon; warm over the fire, and when melted, but not oily, pour over the duck, and serve.
No. 218.Hashed Wild Duck.Cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of flour, depending upon the quantity; mix well, moisten with a glass or two of wine, and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce, season well, add a little Harvey sauce, mushroom catsup, a little sugar, and cayenne pepper; let simmer but not boil, take out the pieces, which dress upon toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little colouring may be added if approved of.
No. 219.Widgeons.Truss as for wild ducks, rub over with some of their livers, chop up the remainder, which mix with a few bread-crumbs, a little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, and an egg, with which stuff the interior; roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a very sharp fire, dress upon toast on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; boil a few minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter, sauce over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed in the same manner as described for wild duck.
No. 220.Teal, a new Method.Procure four, draw them, then put half a pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper, grated nutmeg, parsley, a spoonful of grated crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and the liver of the teal; mix well together, and with it fill the interior of the teal; cover them with slices of lemon, fold in thin slices of bacon, then in paper, and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire; take off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast, letting the butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot.
No. 221.Teal à la sans Façon.Roast four teal quite plain, prepare a quarter of a pound of butter, as above, with the omission of the livers, which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring quickly, until forming a kind of sauce; add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over, and serve. The remains of teal also make an excellent hash.
No. 222.Larks à la Minute.Proceed as directed for snipes à la minute, previously stuffing them with their livers, as directed for widgeons, adding a few mushrooms at the commencement, and not letting them stew too quickly, or the bottom would become brown and give a bad flavour to the sauce; ten minutes is quite sufficient to stew them.
No. 223.Lark Pie.Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks, previously rolled in flour, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalot; lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill of broth, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff paste (p. 480); bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite hot.
No. 224.Jugged Hare.Put nearly half a pound of butter into a good-sized stewpan with ten ounces of flour, making rather a thinnish roux by continually turning over a slow fire until becoming of a yellowish tinge, then add a pound of good streaked bacon, previously cut into good-sized square pieces; keep stirring a few minutes longer over the fire; you have previously cut the hare into nice pieces, throw them into the stewpan, and stir over the fire until becoming firm, when moisten with four glasses of port wine, and sufficient water to cover them; when beginning to boil, skim well, season in proportion to the size of your hare, let simmer, add two bay-leaves, four cloves, and, when about half done, forty button onions, or ten large ones, cut into slices; let simmer until the whole is well done, the sauce requiring to be rather thick; dress the pieces as high as possible upon your dish, sauce over, and serve. The remains are excellent either cold or warmed up again in the stewpan. If cheap and in season, a few small new potatoes are excellent stewed with it.
No. 225.Another and more simple Method.Put a quarter of a pound of butter with a pound of bacon, cut into dice, and the hare, cut into pieces, in a stewpan set upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are becoming firm, when add six ounces of flour, mix well and moisten with sufficient water to cover it, add two glasses of any kind of wine and one of vinegar, season as above, let simmer until tender, keeping well skimmed: when done, and the sauce becoming quite thick, dress upon your dish, and serve as before.
No. 226.Rump Steak Pie.Procure two pounds of rump-steak, which cut into thinnish slices, season well with pepper and salt, dip each piece into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in form of a dome; add a wineglassful of water, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff paste (page 480), egg over with a paste-brush, and bake rather better than an hour in a moderate oven; serve either hot or cold.
No. 227.Mutton Pie.Procure the chumps from three loins of mutton, which cut into moderate slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of your dish, season well with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalot, over which put a layer of thin slices of raw potatoes, then the meat, and seasoning again, proceeding thus, finishing in a dome; add a wineglassful of water, cover with paste, and bake as in the last.
No. 228.Lamb Pie.Cut a small loin of lamb into thin chops, which lightly season, lay them in your dish with a few slices of new potatoes, building them up in the form of a dome; moisten with water, cover with paste, and bake as before.
The proper way to cover these pies is to wet the edge of the dish, round which put a band of common paste, pressing it lightly on, wetting the top, and joining the paste with which the pie is covered to it.
Pies, as I have previously observed, may also be made from the remains of any joints, first hashing the meat from them, which cut into large slices and well season; when quite cold, fill your pie-dish, building it in a dome, two inches above the rim of your dish; place a bay-leaf over, cover with paste, not, however, too thickly, and bake in a hot oven.
Any kind of meat, game, or poultry remaining may be hashed and converted into a pie, as above, without much trouble, thus making a very excellent dish to serve to table. Or the remains of any description of meats may be thus dressed: lay a few slices of streaked uncooked bacon at the bottom of a pie-dish, over which put layers of the meat, seasoning well between, leaving a space between the meat and the dish all round, and not building it above the edge of the dish; then have some potatoes prepared as follows: put about a quarter of a pound of potatoes, well mashed, into a basin, to which add three eggs, a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and half a pint of milk; mix well, strain through a colander, pour over the meat in the dish, bake half an hour in a warm oven, and serve very hot.
No. 229.Beef Steak Pudding.At home I can frequently make a very excellent dinner from a meat pudding, made as follows:
Put one pound of flour upon a pastry slab, in the centre of which form a well, in which put half a pound of beef or mutton suet, whichever is most convenient, add a teaspoonful of salt, and mix the whole, with water, into a stiffish paste, adding more flour to detach the paste from the slab, and make it dry to the touch; then slightly butter the interior of a round-bottomed basin, of the size you may require, which line with two thirds of the paste, rolled to the thickness of half an inch; you have previously cut two pounds of rump-steak into slices, the thickness of two five-shilling pieces, and an large as the palm of your hand, with a certain quantity of fat attached, or if no fat, add a few pieces separately, dip each piece in flour, and cover the bottom of your basin, over which sprinkle some pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalots (which you have previously mixed upon a plate in the following proportions: two teaspoonfuls of salt, half ditto of black pepper, two of chopped parsley, and one or two of chopped onions or eschalots), then more meat, and seasoning alternately until the pudding is filled, add a wineglassful or two of water, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, wet the edges of the paste, the remainder of which roll to the same thickness, with which form a lid, closing it carefully at the edges; have ready boiling in a stewpan upon the fire agallon of water, in which stand your pudding, having previously well wrapped it up in a cloth, and let boil continually for three hours, now and then adding a little more water to keep up the quantity; when done, untie the cloth, from which take the basin, pass your knife carefully round between the pudding and the basin, and turn over upon a dish, lifting the basin carefully, and you will have an excellent pudding, not one drop of gravy escaping until you have dug in your spoon, which will cause it to eat much more delicate than by breaking the pudding on purpose to fill the dish with gravy when going to table, particularly if soup and fish are served before, and the pudding is kept half an hour waiting, the top pieces would then eat very dry and indigestible, being deprived of their succulence. At home I never carve such a pudding with a spoon, but lightly cut the crust with a knife, cutting along the top instead of down, and laying a piece of crust upon each plate, taking the meat and gravy from the centre with a spoon, thus leaving the bottom until the last, which, if any remain, is excellent cold.[27]
The above may also be either steamed or baked, in which case it will not require to be tied in a cloth; to steam it, place a quart of water in a middling-sized stewpan, and when boiling place in your pudding, cover the stewpan down close, and draw it to the corner of the fire, replenishing occasionally with more water; the pudding will require the same time cooking, and is served as before.
If baked, the time required in cooking would of course greatly depend upon the heat of your oven, but it would require about two hours baking in a moderate oven, which is the best adapted. The pudding, when baked, may be kept entirely to be eaten cold. Should the onion or bay-leaf be objectionable to some, they may of course be omitted. Observe, that by shaking the pudding gently, previous to turning it out upon your dish, you will mix the gravy with the flour upon the meat, thus forming, when the pudding is cut, a thinnish sauce, without having a greasy appearance.
This very long and minute receipt will probably surprise many, but by thus entering into it, I have given at least ten receipts in one, as I make all other savoury puddings precisely the same; the following sorts most frequently. I sometimes introduce one or two mutton kidneys in a steak pudding, which, although a very old custom, is nevertheless a very good one. Mutton pudding is also very excellent, especially if made from the meat cut from the chumps of the loins, and made similar to the beef-steak puddings, not, however, requiring quite so long a time to boil. Short mutton cutlets, cut without showing the bones, with slices of raw potatoes between, also make very excellent puddings, as also do cutlets of lamb, but in either case requiring an hour less time to cook. I have also frequently made very good puddings from veal, rabbits, poultry, and game, all of which are very acceptable for a change. Venison pudding is also very beautiful. I consider it a pity so few people make any experiments in cookery, which, like other arts, is almost inexhaustible. Some people who have partaken of some of these puddings, previous to their being sent to table, have said they were sure they would not be approved of; but to my great satisfaction they have been totally deceived.
For the veal pudding I cut slices (from any part of the leg) about the samesize as the beef for steak puddings, and put them into a sauté-pan, over the bottom of which I have rubbed an ounce of butter, seasoning them with a little pepper and salt, adding a little thyme, and a couple of bay-leaves; about half cook, and leave them in the pan until quite cold, then dip each piece in flour, lay them in the basin with a few slices of streaked bacon, finish the pudding, and boil it two hours. For young rabbits and fowls I proceed the same, and cook the pudding the same time; but to the last two I frequently add a spoonful of currie-powder to make it palatable. For venison, I previously stew it well, except I have left the remainder of a haunch, which I convert into a hash, making the pudding of it when cold; this pudding will require very little more than an hour boiling.
I frequently also make puddings of various kinds of fish, of which one made from the fillets of mackerel is very excellent, the fillets cut into good slices, rather highly seasoned, and laid lightly in the pudding; it will require an hour and a half boiling, and must be eaten very hot to be well appreciated. Eels also make a good pudding, by cutting them into pieces an inch and a half in length slantwise, and blanching them ten minutes in boiling water, to extract the oil, previous to putting them in your pudding, before making which dip each piece of eel in flour.