Chapter 5

Irving chose his residence in the valley, not amidthe mountains; by the fields and meadows of the broadTappan Zee, rather than the Highlands; in a congenialregion suited to his temperament.Dr. Bethune.

Irving chose his residence in the valley, not amidthe mountains; by the fields and meadows of the broadTappan Zee, rather than the Highlands; in a congenialregion suited to his temperament.

Irving chose his residence in the valley, not amid

the mountains; by the fields and meadows of the broad

Tappan Zee, rather than the Highlands; in a congenial

region suited to his temperament.

Dr. Bethune.

About fifty years ago a cutting of Walter Scott's favorite ivy at Melrose Abbey was transported across the Atlantic, and trained over the porch of "Sunnyside," by the hand of Mrs. Renwick, daughter of Rev. Andrew Jeffrey of Lochmaben, known in girlhood as the "Bonnie Jessie" of Annandale, or the "Blue-eyed Lassie" of Robert Burns:—a graceful tribute, from the shrine of Waverley to the nest of Knickerbocker:

A token of friendship immortalWith Washington Irving returns:—Scott's ivy entwined o'er his portalBy the Blue-eyed Lassie of Burns.

A token of friendship immortal

With Washington Irving returns:—

Scott's ivy entwined o'er his portal

By the Blue-eyed Lassie of Burns.

Scott's cordial greeting at Abbotsford, and his persistence in getting Murray to reconsider the publication of the "Sketch Book," which he had previously declined, were never forgotten by Irving. It was during a critical period of his literary career, and the kindness of the Great Magician, in directing early attention to his genius, is still cherished by every reader of the "Sketch Book" from Manhattan to San Francisco. The hearty grasp of the Minstrel at the gateway of Abbotsford was in reality a warm handshake to a wider brotherhood beyond the sea.

In purple tints woven togetherThe Hudson shakes hands with the Tweed,Commingling with Abbotsford's heatherThe clover of Sunnyside's mead.Wallace Bruce.

In purple tints woven togetherThe Hudson shakes hands with the Tweed,Commingling with Abbotsford's heatherThe clover of Sunnyside's mead.

In purple tints woven together

The Hudson shakes hands with the Tweed,

Commingling with Abbotsford's heather

The clover of Sunnyside's mead.

Wallace Bruce.

Washington Irving.—While he was building "Sunnyside," a letter came from Daniel Webster, then Secretary of State, appointing him minister to Spain. It was unexpected and unsolicited, and Webster remarked that day to a friend: "Washington Irving to-day will be the most surprised man in America." Irving had already[page 64]shown diplomatic ability in London in promoting the settlement of the "North Western Boundary," and his appointment was received with universal favor. Then as now Sunnyside was already a Mecca for travelers, and, among many well-known to fame, was a young man, afterwards Napoleon the Third. Referring to his visit, Irving wrote in 1853: "Napoleon and Eugenie, Emperor and Empress! The one I have had as a guest at my cottage, the other I have held as a pet child upon my knee in Granada. The last I saw of Eugenie Montijo, she was one of the reigning belles of Madrid; now, she is upon the throne, launched from a returnless shore, upon a dangerous sea, infamous for its tremendous shipwrecks. Am I to live to see the catastrophe of her career, and the end of this suddenly conjured up empire, which seems to be of such stuff as dreams are made of? I confess my personal acquaintance with the individuals in this historical romance gives me uncommon interest in it; but I consider it stamped with danger and instability, and as liable to extravagant vicissitudes as one of Dumas' novels." A wonderful prophecy completely fulfilled in the short space of seventeen years.

How many such men as Washington Irving are therein America. God don't send many such spirits into thisworld.Lord Byron.

How many such men as Washington Irving are therein America. God don't send many such spirits into thisworld.

How many such men as Washington Irving are there

in America. God don't send many such spirits into this

world.

Lord Byron.

NORTHERN POINT OF PALISADESNORTHERN POINT OF PALISADES

The aggregate sale of Irving's works when he received his portfolio to Spain was already more than half a million copies, with an equal popularity achieved in Britain. No writer was ever more truly loved on both sides of the Atlantic, and his name is cherished to-day in England as fondly as it is in our own country. It has been the good fortune of the writer to spend many a delightful day in the very centre of Merrie England, in the quiet town of Stratford-on-Avon, and feel the gentle companionship of Irving. Of all writers who have brought to Stratford their heart homage Irving stands the acknowledged chief. The sitting-room in the "Red Horse Hotel," where he was disturbed in his midnight reverie, is still called Irving's room, and the walls are hung with portraits taken at different periods of his life. Mine[page 65]host said that visitors from every land were as much interested in this room as in Shakespeare's birth-place. The remark may have been intensified to flatter an American visitor, but there are few names dearer to the Anglo-Saxon race than that on the plain headstone in the burial-yard of Sleepy Hollow. Sunnyside is scarcely visible to the Day Line tourist. A little gleam of color here and there amid the trees, close to the river bank, near a small boat-house, merely indicates its location; and the traveler by train has only a hurried glimpse, as it is within one hundred feet of the New York Central Railroad. Tappan Zee, at this point, is a little more than two miles wide and over the beautiful expanse Irving has thrown a wondrous charm. There is, in fact, "magic in the web" of all his works. A few modern critics, lacking appreciation alike for humor and genius, may regard his essays as a thing of the past, but as long as the Mahicanituk, the ever-flowing Hudson, pours its waters to the sea, as long as Rip Van Winkle sleeps in the blue Catskills, or the "Headless Horseman" rides at midnight along the Old Post Roaden routefor Teller's Point, so long will the writings of Washington Irving be remembered and cherished. We somehow feel the reality of every legend he has given us. The spring bubbling up near his cottage was brought over, as he gravely tells us, in a churn from Holland by one of the old time settlers, and we are half inclined to believe it; and no one ever thinks of doubting that the "Flying Dutchman," Mynheer Van Dam, has been rowing for two hundred years and never made a port. It is in fact still said by the old inhabitants, that often in the soft twilight of summer evenings, when the sea is like glass and the opposite hills throw their shadows across it, that the low vigorous pull of oars is heard but no boat is seen.

Here was no castle in the air, but a realized day-dream.Irving was there, as genial, humorous and imaginativeas if he had never wandered from the primalhaunts of his childhood and his fame.Henry T. Tuckerman.

Here was no castle in the air, but a realized day-dream.Irving was there, as genial, humorous and imaginativeas if he had never wandered from the primalhaunts of his childhood and his fame.

Here was no castle in the air, but a realized day-dream.

Irving was there, as genial, humorous and imaginative

as if he had never wandered from the primal

haunts of his childhood and his fame.

Henry T. Tuckerman.

According to Irving "Sunnyside" was once the property of old Baltus Van Tassel, and here lived the fair Katrina, beloved by all the youths of the neighborhood, but more[page 66]especially by Ichabod Crane, the country school-master, and a reckless youth by the name of Van Brunt. Irving tells us that he thought out the story one morning on London Bridge, and went home and completed it in thirty-six hours. The character of Ichabod Crane was a sketch of a young man whom he met at Kinderhook when writing his Knickerbocker history. It will be remembered that Ichabod Crane went to a quilting-bee at the home of Mynheer Van Tassel, and, after the repast, was regaled with various ghost stories peculiar to the locality. When the "party" was over he lingered for a time with the fair Katrina, but sallied out soon after with an air quite desolate and chop-fallen. The night grew darker and darker. He had never before felt so lonesome and miserable. As he passed the fatal tree where Arnold was captured, there started up before him the identical "Headless Horseman" to whom he had been introduced by the story of Brom Bones. Nay, not entirely headless; for the head which "should have rested upon his shoulders was carried before him on the pommel of the saddle. His terror rose to desperation. He rode for death and life. The strange horseman sped beside him at an equal pace. He fell into a walk. The strange horseman did the same. He endeavored to sing a psalm-tune, but his tongue clove to the roof of his mouth. If he could but reach the bridge Ichabod thought he would be safe. Away then he flew in rapid flight. He reached the bridge, he thundered over the resounding planks. Then he saw the goblin rising in his stirrups, and in the very act of launching his head at him. It encountered his cranium with a tremendous crash. He was tumbled headlong into the dirt, and the black steed and the spectral rider passed by like a whirlwind. The next day tracks of horses deeply dented in the road were traced to the bridge, beyond which, on the bank of a broad part of the brook, where the water ran deep and black, was found the hat of the unfortunate Ichabod, and close beside it a shattered[page 67]pumpkin." All honor to him who fills this working-day world with humor, romance and beauty!

I beg you will have the kindness to let me know whenMr. Irving takes pen in hand again; for assuredly Ishall expect a very great treat which I may chance neverto hear of but through your kindness.Walter Scott.

I beg you will have the kindness to let me know whenMr. Irving takes pen in hand again; for assuredly Ishall expect a very great treat which I may chance neverto hear of but through your kindness.

I beg you will have the kindness to let me know when

Mr. Irving takes pen in hand again; for assuredly I

shall expect a very great treat which I may chance never

to hear of but through your kindness.

Walter Scott.

I want to visit Washington Irving, I want to see yourstupendous scenery, I want to go to the grave ofWashington.Lord Byron.

I want to visit Washington Irving, I want to see yourstupendous scenery, I want to go to the grave ofWashington.

I want to visit Washington Irving, I want to see your

stupendous scenery, I want to go to the grave of

Washington.

Lord Byron.

Lyndehurst, Helen M. Gould's residence. A short distance north of "Sunnyside" is the home of Helen M. Gould, whose modest and liberal use of wealth in noble charities has endeared her to every American heart. The place was first known as the Paulding Manor House, where William Paulding, early mayor of New York, and nephew of one of the captors of Andre had his country home. It is a beautiful specimen of old time English architecture, with a suggestion, as some writers have noted, of Newstead Abbey. This part of the Hudson is particularly rich in beautiful residences, rising tier upon tier from the river to the horizon. Albert Bierstadt, the artist, had here a beautiful home, unfortunately burned many years ago.

The Old Post Roadfrom New York to Albany is in many particulars the richest and greatest highway of our country.

Tappan.—Almost opposite Irvington about two miles southwest of Piermont, is old Tappantown, where Major Andre was executed October 2, 1780. The removal of his body from Tappan to Westminster was by a special British ship, and a singular incident was connected with it. The roots of a cypress tree were found entwined about his skull and a scion from the tree was carried to England and planted in the garden adjoining Windsor Palace. It is a still more curious fact that the tree beneath which Andre was captured was struck by lightning on the day of Benedict Arnold's death in London. Further reference will be made to Andre in our description of Tarrytown, and also of Haverstraw, where Arnold and Andre met at the house of Joshua Hett Smith.

Tarrytown, 26 miles from New York. It was here on the Old Post Road, now called Broadway, a little north of the village, that Andre was captured and Arnold's treachery exposed. A monument erected on the spot by[page 68]the people of Westchester County, October 7, 1853, bears the inscription:

on this spot, the 23d day of september, 1780, the spy,MAJOR JOHN ANDRE,Adjutant-General of the British Army, was captured byJohn Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van Wart.all natives of this county.History has told the rest.

The following quaint ballad-verses on the young hero give a realistic touch to one of the most providential occurrences in our history:

He with a scouting partyWent down to Tarrytown,Where he met a British officer,A man of high renown,Who says unto these gentlemen,"You're of the British cheer,I trust that you can tell meIf there's any danger near?"Then up stept this young hero,John Paulding was his name,"Sir, tell us where you're goingAnd also whence you came?""I bear the British flag, sir;I've a pass to go this way,I'm on an expedition,And have no time to stay."

He with a scouting party

Went down to Tarrytown,

Where he met a British officer,

A man of high renown,

Who says unto these gentlemen,

"You're of the British cheer,

I trust that you can tell me

If there's any danger near?"

Then up stept this young hero,John Paulding was his name,"Sir, tell us where you're goingAnd also whence you came?""I bear the British flag, sir;I've a pass to go this way,I'm on an expedition,And have no time to stay."

Then up stept this young hero,

John Paulding was his name,

"Sir, tell us where you're going

And also whence you came?"

"I bear the British flag, sir;

I've a pass to go this way,

I'm on an expedition,

And have no time to stay."

Young Paulding, however, thought that he had plenty of time to linger until he examined his boots, wherein he found the papers, and, when offered ten guineas by Andre, if he would allow him to pursue his journey, replied: "If it were ten thousand guineas you could not stir one step."

The centennial anniversary of the event was commemorated in 1880 by placing, through the generosity of John Anderson, on the original obelisk of 1853, a large statue representing John Paulding as a minute man.

That overruling Providence which has so often and soremarkably interposed in our favor, never manifesteditself more conspicuously than in the timely discoveryof Arnold's treachery.George Washington.

That overruling Providence which has so often and soremarkably interposed in our favor, never manifesteditself more conspicuously than in the timely discoveryof Arnold's treachery.

That overruling Providence which has so often and so

remarkably interposed in our favor, never manifested

itself more conspicuously than in the timely discovery

of Arnold's treachery.

George Washington.

[page 69]

Tarrytown was the very heart of the debatable ground of the Revolution and many striking incidents mark its early history. In 1777 Vaughan's troops landed here on their way to attack Fort Montgomery, and here a party of Americans, under Major Hunt, surprised a number of British refugees while playing cards at the Van Tassel tavern. The major completely "turned the cards" upon them by rushing in with brandished stick, which he brought down with emphasis upon the table, remarking with genuine American brevity, "Gentlemen, clubs are trumps." Here, too, according to Irving, arose the two great orders of chivalry, the "Cow Boys" and "Skinners." The former fought, or rather marauded under the American, the latter under the British banner; the former were known as "Highlanders," the latter as the "Lower-Party." In the zeal of service both were apt to make blunders, and confound the property of friend and foe. "Neither of them, in the heat and hurry of a foray, had time to ascertain the politics of a horse or cow which they were driving off into captivity, nor when they wrung the neck of a rooster did they trouble their heads whether he crowed for Congress or King George."

It was also a genial, reposeful country for the faithful historian, Diedrich Knickerbocker; and here he picked up many of those legends which were given by him to the world. One of these was the legend connected with the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow. "A drowsy, dreamy influence seems to hang over the land, and to pervade the very atmosphere. Some say the place was bewitched by a high German doctor during the early days of the settlement; others that an old Indian chief, the wizard of his tribe, held his pow-wows there before Hendrick Hudson's discovery of the river. The dominant spirit, however, that haunts this enchanted region, is the apparition of a figure on horse-back, without a head, said to be the ghost of a Hessian trooper, and was known[page 70]at all the country firesides as the 'Headless horseman' of Sleepy Hollow."

O waters of Pocantico!Wild rivulet of wood and glen!May thy glad laughter, sweet and low,Long, long outlive the sighs of men.S.H. Thayer.

O waters of Pocantico!Wild rivulet of wood and glen!May thy glad laughter, sweet and low,Long, long outlive the sighs of men.

O waters of Pocantico!

Wild rivulet of wood and glen!

May thy glad laughter, sweet and low,

Long, long outlive the sighs of men.

S.H. Thayer.

SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH.SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH.

Sleepy Hollow.—The Old Dutch Church, the oldest on the Hudson, is about one-half mile north from Tarrytown.

It was built by "Frederick Filipse and his wife Katrina Van Cortland in 1690." The material is partly of stone and partly of brick brought from Holland. It stands as an appropriate sentinel near the entrance to the burial-yard where Irving sleeps. After entering the gate our way leads past the graves of the Ackers, the Van Tassels, and the Van Warts, with inscriptions and plump Dutch cherubs on every side that often delighted the heart of Diedrich Knickerbocker. How many worshippers since that November day in 1859, have come hither with reverent footsteps to read on the plain slab this simple inscription: "Washington Irving, born April 3, 1783. Died November 28, 1859," and recall Longfellow's beautiful lines:

[page 71]

"Here lies the gentle humorist, who diedIn the bright Indian Summer of his fame.A simple stone, with but a date and name,Marks his secluded resting place besideThe river that he loved and glorified.Here in the Autumn of his days he came,But the dry leaves of life were all aflameWith tints that brightened and were multiplied.How sweet a life was his, how sweet a death;Living to wing with mirth the weary hours,Or with romantic tales the heart to cheer;Dying to leave a memory like the breathOf Summers full of sunshine and of showers,A grief and gladness in the atmosphere."

"Here lies the gentle humorist, who died

In the bright Indian Summer of his fame.

A simple stone, with but a date and name,

Marks his secluded resting place beside

The river that he loved and glorified.

Here in the Autumn of his days he came,

But the dry leaves of life were all aflame

With tints that brightened and were multiplied.

How sweet a life was his, how sweet a death;

Living to wing with mirth the weary hours,

Or with romantic tales the heart to cheer;

Dying to leave a memory like the breath

Of Summers full of sunshine and of showers,

A grief and gladness in the atmosphere."

If ever I should wish for a retreat whither I mightsteal from the world and its distractions, and dreamquietly away the remnant of a troubled life, I know ofnone more promising than this little valley.Washington Irving.

If ever I should wish for a retreat whither I might

steal from the world and its distractions, and dream

quietly away the remnant of a troubled life, I know of

none more promising than this little valley.

Washington Irving.

Sleepy Hollow Church, like Sunnyside, is hidden away from the steamer tourist by summer foliage. Just before reaching Kingston Point light-house, a view, looking northeast up the little bay to the right, will sometimes give the outline of the building. Beyond this a tall granite shaft, erected by the Delavan family, is generally quite distinctly seen, and this is near the grave of Irving. A light-house, built in 1883, marks the point where the Pocantico or Sleepy Hollow Creek joins the Hudson:

Pocantico's hushed waters glideThrough Sleepy Hollow's haunted ground,And whisper to the listening tideThe name carved o'er one lowly mound.

Pocantico's hushed waters glide

Through Sleepy Hollow's haunted ground,

And whisper to the listening tide

The name carved o'er one lowly mound.

To one loving our early history and legends there is no spot more central or delightful than Tarrytown. Irving humorously says that Tarrytown took its name from husbands tarrying too late at the village tavern, but its real derivation is Tarwen-Dorp, or Wheat-town. The name of the old Indian village at this point was Alipconck (the place of elms). It has often occurred to the writer that, more than any other river, the Hudson has a distinct personality, and also that the four main divisions of human life are particularly marked in the Adirondacks, the Catskills, the Highlands and Tappan Bay:

[page 72]

The Adirondacks, childhood's glee;The Catskills, youth with dreams o'ercast;The Highlands, manhood bold and free;The Tappan Zee, age come at last.

The Adirondacks, childhood's glee;

The Catskills, youth with dreams o'ercast;

The Highlands, manhood bold and free;

The Tappan Zee, age come at last.

This was the spot that Irving loved; we linger by his grave at Sleepy Hollow with devotion; we sit upon his porch at Sunnyside with reverence:

Thrice blest and happy Tappan Zee,Whose banks along thy glistening tideHave legend, truth, and poetrySweetly expressed in Sunnyside!

Thrice blest and happy Tappan Zee,

Whose banks along thy glistening tide

Have legend, truth, and poetry

Sweetly expressed in Sunnyside!

Whose golden fancy wove a spellAs lasting as the scene is fairAnd made the mountain stream and dellHis own dream-life forever share.Henry T. Tuckerman.

Whose golden fancy wove a spellAs lasting as the scene is fairAnd made the mountain stream and dellHis own dream-life forever share.

Whose golden fancy wove a spell

As lasting as the scene is fair

And made the mountain stream and dell

His own dream-life forever share.

Henry T. Tuckerman.

Nyack, on the west side, 27 miles from New York. The village, including Upper Nyack, West Nyack and South Nyack, has many fine suburban homes and lies in a semi-circle of hills which sweep back from Piermont, meeting the river again at the northern end of Tappan Zee. Tappan is derived from an Indian tribe of that name, which, being translated, is said to signify cold water. The bay is ten miles in length, with an average breadth of about two miles and a half.

Nyack grows steadily in favor as a place for summer residents. The hotels, boarding-houses and suburban homes would increase the census as given to nearly ten thousand people. TheWest Shore Railroadis two and a half miles from the Hudson, with (a) station at West Nyack. TheNorthern Railroad of New Jersey, leased by theNew York, Lake Erie and Western(Chambers Street and 23d Street, New York), passes west of the Bergen Hills and the Palisades. The Ramapo Mountains, north of Nyack, were formerly known by ancient mariners as the Hook, or Point-no-Point. They come down to the river in little headlands, the points of which disappear as the steamer nears them. (The peak to the south, known as Hook Mountain, is 730 feet high.) Ball Mountain above this, and nearer the river, 650 feet. They were sometimes called by Dutch captains Verditege Hook.

The sails hung idly all night long,I dreamed a dream of you and me;'Twas sweeter than the sweetest song,—The dream I dreamed on Tappan Zee.Wallace Bruce.

The sails hung idly all night long,I dreamed a dream of you and me;'Twas sweeter than the sweetest song,—The dream I dreamed on Tappan Zee.

The sails hung idly all night long,

I dreamed a dream of you and me;

'Twas sweeter than the sweetest song,—

The dream I dreamed on Tappan Zee.

Wallace Bruce.

STONY POINTSTONY POINT

[page 73]

Perhaps it took so long to pass these illusive headlands, reaching as they do eight miles along the western bank, that it naturally seemed avery tediouspoint to the old skippers. Midway in this Ramapo Range, "set in a dimple of the hills," is—

Rockland Lake, source of the Hackensack River, one hundred and fifty feet above the Hudson. The "slide way," by which the ice is sent down to the boats to be loaded, can be seen from the steamer, and the blocks in motion, as seen by the traveler, resemble little white pigs running down an inclined plane. As we look at the great ice-houses to-day, which, like uncouth barns, stand here and there along the Hudson, it does not seem possible that only a few years ago ice was decidedly unpopular, and wheeled about New York in a hand-cart. Think of one hand-cart supplying New York with ice! It was considered unhealthy, and called forth many learned discussions.

Returning to the east bank, we see above Tarrytown many superb residences, notably "Rockwood," the home of William Rockefeller, of the Standard Oil Company. The estate of General James Watson Webb is also near at hand. Passing Scarborough Landing, with the Hook Mountain and Ball Mountains on the left, we see

Ossining, formerly known as Sing Sing, on east bank. The low buildings, near the river bank, are the State's Prison. They are constructed of marble, but are not considered palatial by the prisoners that occupy the cells. It was quarried near by, and the prisons were built by convicts imported from Auburn in 1826. Saddlery, furniture, shoes, etc., are manufactured within its walls. There was an Indian chieftancy here known as the Sintsinks. In a deed to Philip Phillipse in 1685 a stream is referred to as "Kitchewan called by the Indians Sink-Sink." The Indian Village was known as Ossining, from "ossin" a stone and "ing" a place, probably so called from the rocky and stony character of the river banks.

How many, at this hour, along thy course,Slumber to thine eternal murmuringsThat mingle with the utterance of their dreams.William Cullen Bryant.

How many, at this hour, along thy course,Slumber to thine eternal murmuringsThat mingle with the utterance of their dreams.

How many, at this hour, along thy course,

Slumber to thine eternal murmurings

That mingle with the utterance of their dreams.

William Cullen Bryant.

[page 74]

The heights above Tappan Zee at this point are crowned by fine residences, and the village is one of the pleasantest on the river. The drives among the hills are delightful and present a wide and charming outlook. Here also are several flourishing military boarding schools and a seminary for girls. The old silver and copper mines once worked here never yielded satisfactory returns for invested capital. Various industries give active life and prosperity to the town. Just above Sing Sing

Croton River, known by the Indians as Kitchawonk, joins the Hudson in a bay crossed by theNew York Central RailroadCroton draw-bridge. East of this point is a water shed having an area of 350 square miles, which supplies New York with water. The Croton Reservoir is easily reached by a pleasant carriage drive from Sing Sing, and it is a singular fact that the pitcher and ice-cooler of New York, or in other words, Croton Dam and Rockland Lake, should be almost opposite. About fifty years ago the Croton first made its appearance in New York, brought in by an aqueduct of solid masonry which follows the course of the Hudson near the Old Post Road, or at an average distance of about a mile from the east bank. Here and there its course can be traced by "white stone ventilating towers" from Sing Sing to High Bridge, which conveys the aqueduct across the Harlem River. Its capacity is 100,000,000 gallons per day, which however began to be inadequate for the city and a new aqueduct was therefore begun in 1884 and completed in 1890, capable of carrying three times that amount, at a cost of $25,000,000. The water-shed is well supplied with streams and lakes. Lake Mahopac, one of its fountains, is one of the most beautiful sheets of water near the metropolis, and easily accessible by a pleasant drive from Peekskill, or by theHarlem Railroadfrom New York. The old Indian name was Ma-cook-pake, signifying a large inland lake, or perhaps an island near the shore. The same derivation is also seen in Copake Lake, Columbia[page 75]County. On an island of Mahopac the last great "convention" of the southern tribes of the Hudson was held. The lake is about 800 feet above tide, and it is pleasant to know that the bright waters of Mahopac and the clear streams of Putnam and Westchester are conveyed to New York even as the poetic waters of Loch Katrine to the city of Glasgow. The Catskill water supply, the ground of which was broken in 1907, is referred to in our description of Cold Spring and the Catskills.

Round the aqueducts of storyAs the mists of Lethe throngCroton's waves in all their gloryTroop in melody along.George P. Morris.

Round the aqueducts of storyAs the mists of Lethe throngCroton's waves in all their gloryTroop in melody along.

Round the aqueducts of story

As the mists of Lethe throng

Croton's waves in all their glory

Troop in melody along.

George P. Morris.

Map of the Hudson River from Croton to Hyde Park.Map of Hudson River from Croton to Hyde Park.

Just above Croton Bay and theNew York Central Railroaddraw-bridge will be seen the old Van Cortlandt Manor, where Frederick Phillipse and Katrina Van Cortlandt were married, as seen by the inscription on the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow.

Teller's Point(sometimes known as Croton or Underhill's Point), separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay. It was called by the Indians "Senasqua." Tradition says that ancient warriors still haunt the surrounding glens and woods, and the sachems of Teller's Point are household words in the neighborhood. It is also said that there was once a great Indian battle here, and perhaps the ghosts of the old warriors are attracted by the Underhill grapery and the 10,000 gallons of wine bottled every season.

It was here the British warship "The Vulture," came with Andre and put him ashore at the foot of Mount Tor below Haverstraw.

The river now opens into a beautiful bay, four miles in width,—a bed large enough to tuck up fifteen River Rhines side by side. This reach sometimes seems in the bright sunlight like a molten bay of silver, and the tourist finds relief in adjusting his smoked glasses to temper the dazzling light.

Beneath these gold and azure skiesThe river winds through leafy glades,Save where, like battlements, ariseThe gray and tufted Palisades.Henry T. Tuckerman.

Beneath these gold and azure skiesThe river winds through leafy glades,Save where, like battlements, ariseThe gray and tufted Palisades.

Beneath these gold and azure skies

The river winds through leafy glades,

Save where, like battlements, arise

The gray and tufted Palisades.

Henry T. Tuckerman.

Haverstraw, 37 miles from New York. Haverstraw Bay is sometimes said to be five miles wide. Its widest point, however, from Croton Landing to Haverstraw, is,[page 76]according to United States Geological Survey, a little over four miles. The principal industry of Haverstraw is brick-making, and its brick yards reaching north to Grassy Point, are of materal profit, if not picturesque. The place was called Haverstraw by the Dutch, perhaps as a place of rye straw, to distinguish it from Tarrytown, a place of wheat. The Indian name has been lost; but, if its original derivation is uncertain, it at least calls up the rhyme of old-time river captains, which Captain Anderson of the "Mary Powell" told the writer he used to hear frequently when a boy:

"West Point and Middletown,Konnosook and Doodletown,Kakiak and Mamapaw,Stony Point and Haverstraw."

"West Point and Middletown,

Konnosook and Doodletown,

Kakiak and Mamapaw,

Stony Point and Haverstraw."

Quaint as these names now sound, they all are found on old maps of the Hudson.

High Torn is the name of the northern point of the Ramapo on the west bank, south of Haverstraw. According to the Coast Survey, it is 820 feet above tide-water, and the view from the summit is grand and extensive. The origin of the name is not clear, but it has lately occurred to the writer, from a re-reading of Scott's "Peveril of the Peak," that it might have been named from the Torn, a mountain in Derbyshire, either from its appearance, or by some patriotic settler from the central water-shed of England. Others say it is the Devonshire word Tor changed to Torn, evidently derived from the same source.

Emerging from these confused piles, the river as ifrejoicing at its release from its struggle, expanded intoa wide bay, which was ornamented by a few fertile andlow points that jutted humbly into its broad basin.James Fenimore Cooper.

Emerging from these confused piles, the river as if

rejoicing at its release from its struggle, expanded into

a wide bay, which was ornamented by a few fertile and

low points that jutted humbly into its broad basin.

James Fenimore Cooper.

West Shore Railroad.—The tourist will see at this point, on the left bank of the river, the tunnel whereby the "West Shore" finds egress from the mountains. The traveler over this railway, on emerging from the quiet valley west of the Palisades, comes upon a sudden vision of beauty unrivaled in any land. The broad river seems like a great inland lake; and the height of the tunnel[page 77]above the silver bay gives to the panoramic landscape a wondrous charm. About a mile from the river, southwest of Grassy Point, on the farther side of the winding Minnissickuongo Creek, which finally after long meandering makes up its mind to glide into Stony Point Bay, will be seen Treason Hill marked by the Joshua Hett Smith stone house where Arnold and Andre met. The story of this meeting will be referred to at greater length in connection with its most dramatic incident at the old Beverley House in the Highlands. The Hudson here is about two miles in width and narrows rapidly as we pass Grassy Point on the west bank with its meadows and brick yards to

Stony Point, where it is scarcely more than half a mile to Verplank's Point on the eastern bank. This was, therefore, an important pass during the Revolution. The crossing near at hand was known as King's Ferry, at and before the days of '76, and was quite an avenue of travel between the Southern, Middle and Eastern States. The fort crowning a commanding headland, was captured by the British, June 1, 1779, but it was surprised and recaptured by Anthony Wayne, July 15 of the same year. A centennial was observed at the place July 15, 1879, when the battle was "refought" and the West Point Cadets showed how they would have done it if they had been on hand a century ago. Thackeray, in his "Virginians," gives perhaps the most graphic account of this midnight battle. The present light-house occupies the site of the old fort, and was built in part of stone taken from its walls. Upon its capture by the British, Washington, whose headquarters were at New Windsor, meditated a bold stroke and summoned Anthony Wayne, more generally known as "Mad Anthony," from his reckless daring, to undertake its recapture with a force of one thousand picked men. The lines were formed in two columns about 8 p.m. at "Springsteel's farm." Each soldier and officer put a piece of white paper in his hat[page 78]to distinguish him from the foe. No guns were to be loaded under penalty of death. General Wayne, at the head of the column, forded the marsh covered at the time with two feet of water. The other column led by Butler and Murfree crossed an apology for a bridge. During the advance both columns were discovered by the British sentinels and the rocky defense literally blazed with musketry. In stern silence, however, without faltering, the American columns moved forward, entered the abatis, until the advance guard under Anthony Wayne was within the enemy's works. A bullet at this moment struck Wayne in the forehead grazing his skull. Quickly recovering from the shock, he rose to his knees, shouted: "Forward, my brave fellows"; then turning to two of his followers, he asked them to help him into the fort that he might die, if it were to be so, "in possession of the spot." Both columns were now at hand and inspired by the brave general, came pouring in, crying "The fort's our own." The British troops completely overwhelmed, were fain to surrender and called for mercy. Wayne's characteristic message to Washington antedates modern telegraphic brevity:—"Stony Point, 2 o'clock a.m. The American flag waves here.—Mad Anthony." There were twenty killed and sixty wounded on each side. Some five hundred of the enemy were captured and about sixty escaped. "Money rewards and medals were given to Wayne and the leaders in the assault. The ordinance and stores captured were appraised at over $180,000 and there was universal rejoicing" throughout the land. "Stony Point State Park" was dedicated by appropriate ceremony July 16, 1902. At the close of Governor Odell's address the flag was raised by William Wayne, a lineal descendant of the hero, and the cruiser "Olympia" of Manila fame boomed forth her tribute. Verplank's Point, on the east bank (now full of brick-making establishments), was the site of Fort Lafayette. It was here that Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of the American army. Back[page 79]from Green Cove above Verplanck's Point is "Knickerbocker Lake."

The star spangled banner, the flag of the brave,And the cross of old England in amity wave,But if ever the nations do battle againGod send us such soldiers as Anthony Wayne.Minna Irving.

The star spangled banner, the flag of the brave,And the cross of old England in amity wave,But if ever the nations do battle againGod send us such soldiers as Anthony Wayne.

The star spangled banner, the flag of the brave,

And the cross of old England in amity wave,

But if ever the nations do battle again

God send us such soldiers as Anthony Wayne.

Minna Irving.

The echoes that so boldly rungWhen cannon flashed from steep to steep,And freedom's airy challenge flung,In each romantic valley sleep.Henry T. Tuckerman.

The echoes that so boldly rungWhen cannon flashed from steep to steep,And freedom's airy challenge flung,In each romantic valley sleep.

The echoes that so boldly rung

When cannon flashed from steep to steep,

And freedom's airy challenge flung,

In each romantic valley sleep.

Henry T. Tuckerman.

Tompkin's Cove.—North of Stony Point we see great quarries of limestone, the principal industry of the village of Tompkin's Cove. Gravel is also shipped from this place for Central Park roads and driveways in New York City. The tourist, looking north from the forward deck of the steamer, sees no opening in the mountains, and it is amusing to hear the various conjectures of the passengers; as usual, the "unexpected" happens. The steamer turns to the left and sweeps at once into the grand scenery of the Highlands. The straight forward course, which seems the more natural, would land the steamer against theHudson River Railroad, crossing the Peekskill River. It is said that an old skipper, Jans Peek, ran up this stream, years before the railroad was built, and did not know that he had left the Hudson, or rather that the Hudson was "left" until he ran aground in the shoal water of the bay. The next morning he discovered that it was a goodly land, and the place bears his name unto this day.

The Highlands and the PalisadesMirror their beauty in the tide,The history of whose forest shadesA nation reads with conscious pride.Wallace Bruce.

The Highlands and the PalisadesMirror their beauty in the tide,The history of whose forest shadesA nation reads with conscious pride.

The Highlands and the Palisades

Mirror their beauty in the tide,

The history of whose forest shades

A nation reads with conscious pride.

Wallace Bruce.

Peekskill, 40 miles from New York, is a pleasant city on the quiet bay which deeply indents the eastern bank. The property in this vicinity was known as Rycks Patent in 1665. In Revolutionary times Fort Independence stood on the point above, where its ruins are still seen. The Franciscan Convent Academy of "Our Lady of Angels," guards the point below. In 1797 Peekskill was the headquarters of old Israel Putnam, who rivaled "Mad Anthony" in brevity as well as courage. It will be remembered that Palmer was here captured as a spy. A British officer wrote a letter asking his reprieve, to which Putnam replied, "Nathan Palmer was taken as a spy, tried as a spy and will be hanged as a spy. P. S.—He is hanged." This was the birthplace of Paulding, one of Andre's captors, and he died here in 1818. He is buried in the old rural cemetery about two miles and a half[page 80]from the village, and a monument has been erected to his memory. Near at hand is the "Wayside Inn," where Andre once "tarried," also the Hillside Cemetery, where on June 19, 1898, the 123d anniversary of the battle of Bunker Hill, a monument was unveiled to General Pomeroy by the Society of the Sons of Revolution, New York. The church which Washington attended is in good preservation.

Near Peekskill is the old Van Cortlandt house, the residence of Washington for a short time during the Revolution. East of the village was the summer home of the great pulpit orator, Henry Ward Beecher. Peekskill was known by the Indians as Sackhoes in the territory of the Kitchawongo, which extended from Croton River to Anthony's Nose.

Turning Caldwell's Landing or Jones' Point, formerly known as Kidd's Point, almost at right angles, the steamer enters the southern gate of the Highlands. At the water edge will be seen some upright planks or caissons marking the spot where Kidd's ship was supposed to have been scuttled. As his history seems to be intimately associated with the Hudson, we will give it in brief:

The Story of Captain Kidd.—"My name was Captain Kidd as I sailed," are famous lines of an old ballad which was once familiar to our grandfathers. The hapless hero of the same was born about the middle of the seventeenth century, and it is thought, near Greenock, Scotland. He resided at one time in New York, near the corner of William and Cedar Streets, and was there married. In April, 1696, he sailed from England in command of the "Adventure Galley," with full armament and eighty men. He captured a French ship, and, on arrival at New York, put up articles for volunteers; remained in New York three or four months, increasing his crew to one hundred and fifty-five men, and sailed thence to Madras, thence to Bonavista and St. Jago, Madagascar, then to Calicut, then to Madagascar again, then sailed[page 81]and took the "Quedah Merchant." Kidd kept forty shares of the spoils, and divided the rest with his crew. He then burned the "Adventure Galley," went on board the "Quedah Merchant," and steered for the West Indies. Here he left the "Merchant," with part of his crew, under one Bolton, as commander. Then manned a sloop, and taking part of his spoils, went to Boston via Long Island Sound, and is said to have set goods on shore at different places. In the meantime, in August, 1698, the East Indian Company informed the Lords Justice that Kidd had committed several acts of piracy, particularly in seizing a Moor's ship called the "Quedah Merchant." When Kidd landed at Boston he was therefore arrested by the Earl of Bellamont, and sent to England for trial, 1699, where he was found guilty and executed. Now it is supposed that the crew of the "Quedah Merchant," which Kidd left at Hispaniola, sailed for their homes, as the crew was mostly gathered from the Highlands and above.It is said that they passed New York in the night,en routeto the manor of Livingston; but encountering a gale in the Highlands, and thinking they were pursued, ran her near the shore, now known as Kidd's Point, and here scuttled her, the crew fleeing to the woods with such treasure as they could carry. Whether this circumstance was true or not, it was at least a current story in the neighborhood, and an enterprising individual, about fifty years ago,caused an old cannonto be "discovered" in the river, and perpetrated the first "Cardiff Giant Hoax." A New York Stock Company was organized to prosecute the work. It was said that the ship could be seen in clear days, with her masts still standing, many fathoms below the surface. One thing is certain—the company did not see it or thetreasurereither, in whose hands were deposited about $30,000.

Beauty and majesty on either handHave shared thy waters with their common realm.Knickerbocker Magazine.

Beauty and majesty on either handHave shared thy waters with their common realm.

Beauty and majesty on either hand

Have shared thy waters with their common realm.

Knickerbocker Magazine.

SOUTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDSSOUTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS

Their summits are the first to meetThe morning's golden ray,And last to catch the crimson firesThat warm the dying day.Minna Irving.

Their summits are the first to meetThe morning's golden ray,And last to catch the crimson firesThat warm the dying day.

Their summits are the first to meet

The morning's golden ray,

And last to catch the crimson fires

That warm the dying day.

Minna Irving.

On the west shore rise the rock-beaten crags of—

The Dunderberg, the dread of the Dutch mariners.[page 82]This hill, according to Irving, was peopled with a multitude of imps, too great for man to number, who wore sugar-loaf hats and short doublets, and had a picturesque way of "tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist." They were especially malignant toward all captains who failed to do them reverence, and brought down frightful squalls on such craft as failed to drop the peaks of their mainsails to the goblin who presided over this shadowy republic. It was the dread of the early navigators—in fact, the Olympus of Dutch mythology. Verditege Hook, the Dunderberg, and the Overslaugh, were names of terror to even the bravest skipper. The old burghers of New York never thought of making their week's voyage to Albany without arranging their wills, and it created as much commotion in New Amsterdam as a modern expedition to the north pole. Dunderberg, in most of the Hudson Guides and Maps, is put down as 1,098 feet, but its actual altitude by the latest United States Geological Survey is 865 feet.

The State National Guard Encampment crowns a bluff, formerly known as Roa Hook, on the east bank, north of Peekskill Bay, a happy location in the midst of history and beauty. Every regiment in the State rallies here in turn during the summer months for instruction in the military art, living in tents and enjoying life in true army style. Visitors are cordially greeted at proper hours, and the camp is easily reached by ferry from Peekskill. A ferry also runs from Peekskill to Dunderberg, affording a hillside outing and a delightful view. It is expected that a spiral railroad, fourteen miles in length, undertaken by a recently organized corporation, but abandoned for the present, will make the spot a great Hudson River resort. The plan also embraces a palatial hotel on the summit and pleasure grounds upon the point at its base. Passing Manito Mountain on our right the steamer approaches

Anthony's Nose, a prominent feature of the Hudson.

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