Chapter 6

The waters were hemmed in by abrupt and darkmountains, but the channel was still broad and smoothenough for all the steamboats in the Republic to ridein safety.Harriet Martineau.

The waters were hemmed in by abrupt and darkmountains, but the channel was still broad and smoothenough for all the steamboats in the Republic to ridein safety.

The waters were hemmed in by abrupt and dark

mountains, but the channel was still broad and smooth

enough for all the steamboats in the Republic to ride

in safety.

Harriet Martineau.

ANTHONY'S NOSE.ANTHONY'S NOSE.

[page 83]

Strangely enough the altitude of the mountains at the southern portal of the Highlands has been greatly overrated. The formerly accepted height of Anthony's Nose has been reduced by the Geological Survey from 1,228 feet to 900. It has, however, an illustrious christening, and according to various historians several godfathers. One says it was named after St. Anthony the Great, the first institutor of monastic life, born A.D. 251, at Coma, in Heraclea, a town in Upper Egypt. Irving's humorous account is, however, quite as probable that it wasderivedfrom the nose of Antony Van Corlear, the illustrious trumpeter of Peter Stuyvesant. "Now thus it happened that bright and early in the morning the good Antony, having washed his burly visage, was leaning over the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating it in the glassy waves below. Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind a high bluff of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the refulgentnoseof the sounder of brass, the reflection of which shot straightway down hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. When this astonishing miracle was made known to the Governor, and he tasted of the unknown fish, he marveled exceedingly; and, as a monument thereof, he gave the name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood, and it has continued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since." It was called by the Indians "Kittatenny," a Delaware term, signifying "endless hills." The stream flowing into the river south of Anthony's Nose is known as the Brocken Kill, broken into beautiful cascades from mountain source to mouth.

The beautiful and in some places highly singularbanks of the Hudson rendered a voyage both amusingand interesting, while the primitive manners of the inhabitantsdiverted the gay and idle and pleased thethoughtful and speculative.Mrs. Grant of Laggan.

The beautiful and in some places highly singular

banks of the Hudson rendered a voyage both amusing

and interesting, while the primitive manners of the inhabitants

diverted the gay and idle and pleased the

thoughtful and speculative.

Mrs. Grant of Laggan.

Iona Island, formerly a pleasure resort and picnic ground. An old-time joke of the Hudson was frequently perpetrated on strangers while passing the island. Some one would innocently observe, "I own a island on the Hudson." When any one obligingly asked, "Where?" the[page 84]reply would be with pointed finger, "Why there." But the United States Governmentownsit now against all comers, and its quiet lanes and picnic abandon have been exchanged for busy machine shops and military discipline. It is near the west bank, opposite Anthony's Nose. A short distance from the island, on the main land, was the village or cross-roads of Doodletown. This reach of the river was formerly known as The Horse Race, from the rapid flow of the tide when at its height. The hills on the west bank now recede from the river, forming a picturesque amphitheatre, bounded on the west by Bear Mountain. An old road directly in the rear of Iona Island, better known to Anthony Wayne than to the modern tourist, passes through Doodletown, over Dunderberg, just west of Tompkin's Cove, to Haverstraw. Here amid these pleasant foothills Morse laid the scene of a historical romance, which he however happily abandoned for a wider invention. The world can get along without the novel, but it would be a trifle slow without the telegraph. On the west bank, directly opposite the railroad tunnel which puts a merry "ring" into the tip of Anthony's Nose, is what is now known as Highland Lake, called by the Indians "Sinnipink," and by the immediate descendants of our Revolutionary fathers "Hessian Lake" or "Bloody Pond," from the fact that an American company were mercilessly slaughtered here by the Hessians, and, after the surrender of Fort Montgomery, their bodies were thrown into the lake.

Behold again the wildwood shade,The mountain steep, the checkered glade,And hoary rocks and bubbling rills,And pointed waves and distant hills.Robert C. Sands.

Behold again the wildwood shade,The mountain steep, the checkered glade,And hoary rocks and bubbling rills,And pointed waves and distant hills.

Behold again the wildwood shade,

The mountain steep, the checkered glade,

And hoary rocks and bubbling rills,

And pointed waves and distant hills.

Robert C. Sands.

The capture of Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery was two years before Mad Anthony's successful assault on Stony Point. Early in the history of the Revolution, the British Government thought that it would be possible to cut off the eastern from the middle and southern Colonies by capturing and garrisoning commanding points along the Hudson and Lake Champlain. It was therefore decided in London, in the spring of 1777, to have Sir Henry Clinton approach from the south and Burgoyne[page 85]from the north. Reinforcements, however, arrived late from England and it was September before Clinton transported his troops, about 4,000 in number, in warships and flat-boats up the river. Governor George Clinton was in charge of Fort Montgomery, and his brother James of Fort Clinton, while General Putnam, with about 2,000 men, had his headquarters at Peekskill. In addition to these forts, a chain was stretched across the Hudson from Anthony's Nose to a point near the present railroad bridge, to obstruct the British fleet. General Putnam, however, became convinced that Sir Henry Clinton proposed to attack Fort Independence. Most of the troops were accordingly withdrawn from Forts Montgomery and Clinton, when Sir Henry Clinton, taking advantage of a morning fog, crossed with 2,000 men at King's Ferry. Guided by a sympathizer of the British cause, who knew the district, he crossed the Dunderberg Mountain by the road just indicated. One division of 900 moving on Fort Montgomery, and another of 1,100 on Fort Clinton. Governor Clinton in the meantime ordered 400 soldiers to Fort Montgomery, and his reconnoitering party, met by the Hessians, fell back upon the fort, fighting as it retreated. Governor Clinton sent to General Putnam for reinforcements, but it is said that the messenger deserted, so that Putnam literally sat waiting in camp, unconscious of the enemy's movements. A simultaneous attack was made at 5 o'clock in the afternoon on both forts. Lossing says: "The garrisons were composed mostly of untrained militia. They behaved nobly, and kept up the defense vigorously, against a greatly superior force of disciplined and veteran soldiers, until twilight, when they were overpowered, and sought safety in a scattered retreat to the neighboring mountains. Many escaped, but a considerable number were slain or made prisoners. The Governor fled across the river in a boat, and at midnight was with General Putnam at Continental Village, concerting measures for stopping the invasion. James, forcing[page 86]his way to the rear, across the highway bridge, received a bayonet wound in the thigh, but safely reached his home at New Windsor. A sloop of ten guns, the frigate "Montgomery"—twenty-four guns—and two row-galleys, stationed near the boom and chain for their protection, slipped their cables and attempted to escape, but there was no wind to fill their sails, and they were burned by the Americans to prevent their falling into the hands of the enemy. The frigate "Congress," twenty-eight guns, which had already gone up the river, shared the same fate on the flats near Fort Constitution, which was abandoned. By the light of the burning vessels the fugitive garrisons made their way over the rugged mountains, and a large portion of them joined General Clinton at New Windsor the next day. They had left many of their brave companions behind, who, to the number of 250, had been slain or taken prisoners. The British, too, had parted with many men and brave officers. Among the latter was Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell. Early in the morning of the 7th of October, the river obstructions between Fort Montgomery and Anthony's Nose, which cost the Americans $250,000, were destroyed, and a light flying squadron, commanded by Sir James Wallace, and bearing a large number of land troops under General Vaughan, sailed up the river on a marauding expedition, with instructions from Sir Henry to scatter desolation in their paths. It was hoped that such an expedition would draw troops from the Northern army for the protection of the country below, and thereby assist Burgoyne."

I love thy tempests when the broad-winged blastRouses thy billows with his battle call,When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vastLike armed shadows gird thy rocky wall.Knickerbocker Magazine.

I love thy tempests when the broad-winged blastRouses thy billows with his battle call,When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vastLike armed shadows gird thy rocky wall.

I love thy tempests when the broad-winged blast

Rouses thy billows with his battle call,

When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vast

Like armed shadows gird thy rocky wall.

Knickerbocker Magazine.

Sir Henry Clinton, who had been advised by General Burgoyne that he must be relieved by October 12th, sent a messenger announcing his victory. Another of the many special providences of the American Revolution now occurs. The messenger blundered into the American camp, where some soldiers sat in British uniform, and found out too late that he was among enemies instead of friends. As Irving relates the incident in his "Life of Washington":

[page 87]

—"On the 9th (October) two persons coming from Fort Montgomery were arrested by the guard, and brought for examination. One was much agitated, and was observed to put something hastily into his mouth and swallow it. An emetic was administered, and brought up a silver bullet. Before he could be prevented he swallowed it again. On his refusing a second emetic, the Governor threatened to have him hanged and his body opened. This threat was effectual and the bullet was again 'brought to light.' It was oval in form, and hollow, with a screw in the centre, and contained a note from Sir Henry Clinton to Burgoyne, written on a slip of thin paper, and dated October 8th, from Fort Montgomery: 'Nous y voici(here we are), and nothing between us and Gates. I sincerely hope this little success of ours will facilitate your operations.' Burgoyne never received it, and on October 13th, after the battles of Bennington and Saratoga, surrendered to General Gates. Sir Henry Clinton abandoned the forts on hearing of his defeat, and returned to New York 'a sadder and wiser man.'"

Columbia! Columbia! to glory arise,The queen of the earth and the child of the skies.Timothy Dwight.

Columbia! Columbia! to glory arise,The queen of the earth and the child of the skies.

Columbia! Columbia! to glory arise,

The queen of the earth and the child of the skies.

Timothy Dwight.

Far up the Hudson's silver floodI hear the Highlands callWith whispering of leafy boughsAnd voice of waterfall.Minna Irving.

Far up the Hudson's silver floodI hear the Highlands callWith whispering of leafy boughsAnd voice of waterfall.

Far up the Hudson's silver flood

I hear the Highlands call

With whispering of leafy boughs

And voice of waterfall.

Minna Irving.

Beverley House.—Passing Cohn's Hook, pronounced Connosook, where Hendrick Hudson anchored on his way up the river September 14, 1609, we see before us on the right bank a point coming down to the shore marked by a boat house. This is Beverley Dock, and directly up the river bank about an eighth of a mile stood the old Beverley House, where Benedict Arnold had his headquarters when in command of West Point. The old house, a good specimen of colonial times, was unfortunately burned in 1892, and with it went the most picturesque landmark of the most dramatic incident of the Revolution. It will be remembered that Arnold returned to the Beverley House after his midnight interview with Andre at Haverstraw, and immediately upon the capture of Andre the following day, that Colonel Jamison sent a letter to Arnold, advising him of the fact. It was the morning of September 4th. General Washington was on[page 88]his way to West Point, coming across the country from Connecticut. On arriving, however, at the river, just above the present station of Garrison, he became interested in examining some defenses, and sent Alexander Hamilton forward to the Beverley House, saying that he would come later, requesting the family to proceed with their breakfast and not to await his arrival. Alexander Hamilton and General Lafayette sat gayly chatting with Mrs. Arnold and her husband when the letter from Jamison was received. Arnold glanced at the contents, rose and excused himself from the table, beckoning to his wife to follow him, bade her good-bye, told her he was a ruined man and a traitor, kissed his little boy in the cradle, rode to Beverley Dock, and ordered his men to pull off and go down the river. The "Vulture," an English man-of-war, was near Teller's Point, and received a traitor, whose miserable treachery branded him with eternal infamy on both continents. It is said that he lived long enough to be hissed in the House of Commons, as he once took his seat in the gallery, and he died friendless and despised. It is also said, when Talleyrand arrived in Havre on foot from Paris, in the darkest hour of the French Revolution, pursued by the bloodhounds of the reign of terror, and was about to secure a passage to the United States, he asked the landlord of the hotel whether any Americans were staying at his house, as he was going across the water, and would like a letter to a person of influence in the New World. "There is a gentleman up-stairs from Britain or America," was the response. He pointed the way, and Talleyrand ascended the stairs. In a dimly lighted room sat a man of whom the great minister of France was to ask a favor. He advanced, and poured forth in elegant French and broken English, "I am a wanderer, and an exile. I am forced to fly to the New World without a friend or home. You are an American. Give me, then, I beseech you, a letter of yours, so that I may be able to earn my bread." The[page 89]strange gentleman rose. With a look that Talleyrand never forgot, he retreated toward the door of the next chamber. He spoke as he retreated, and his voice was full of suffering: "I am the only man of the New World who can raise his hand to God and say, 'I have not a friend, not one, in America!'" "Who are you?" he cried—"your name?" "My name is Benedict Arnold!"

Wayne, Putnam, Knox and Heath are there,Steuben, proud Prussia's honored son;Brave Lafayette from France the fair,And chief of all our Washington.Wallace Bruce.

Wayne, Putnam, Knox and Heath are there,Steuben, proud Prussia's honored son;Brave Lafayette from France the fair,And chief of all our Washington.

Wayne, Putnam, Knox and Heath are there,

Steuben, proud Prussia's honored son;

Brave Lafayette from France the fair,

And chief of all our Washington.

Wallace Bruce.

Andre's fate on the other hand was widely lamented. He was universally beloved by his comrades and possessed a rich fund of humor which often bubbled over in verse. It is a strange coincidence that his best poetic attempt on one of Anthony Wayne's exploits near Fort Lee, entitled "The Cow Chase," closed with a graphically prophetic verse:

"And now I've closed my epic strain,I tremble as I show it,Lest this same Warrior-Drover WayneShould ever catch the poet."

"And now I've closed my epic strain,

I tremble as I show it,

Lest this same Warrior-Drover Wayne

Should ever catch the poet."

By a singular coincidence he did: General Wayne was in command of the Tarrytown and Tappan country where Andre was captured and executed. It is also said that these lines were published by one of the Tory papers in New York the very day of Andre's capture. One of the old-time characters on the Hudson, known as Uncle Richard, has recently thrown new light on the capture of Andre by claiming, with a touch of genuine humor, that it was entirely due to the "effects" of cider which had been freely "dispensed" that day by a certain Mr. Horton, a farmer in the neighborhood.

In view of all he lost,—his youth, his love,And possibilities that wait the brave,Inward and outward bound dim visions moveLike passing sails upon the Hudson's wave.Charlotte Fiske Bates.

In view of all he lost,—his youth, his love,And possibilities that wait the brave,Inward and outward bound dim visions moveLike passing sails upon the Hudson's wave.

In view of all he lost,—his youth, his love,

And possibilities that wait the brave,

Inward and outward bound dim visions move

Like passing sails upon the Hudson's wave.

Charlotte Fiske Bates.

It is impossible even in these later years, not to speak of twenty-five or fifty years ago, to travel along the shores of Haverstraw Bay or among the passes of the Highlands, without hearing some old-time stories about Arnold and Andre, and it would be strange indeed if a little romance had not here and there become blended with the real facts. Uncle Richard's account is undoubtedly[page 90]the best since the days of Knickerbocker. "Benedict Arnold, you know, had command of West Point, and he knew that the place was essential to the success of the Continental cause. He plotted, as everybody knows, to turn it over to the enemy, and in the correspondence which he carried on with General Clinton, young Andre, Clinton's aid, did all the writing. Things were coming to a focus, when a meeting took place between Arnold and Clinton's representative, Andre, at the house of Joshua Hett Smith, near Haverstraw. Andre came on the British ship "Vulture," which he left at Croton Point, in Haverstraw Bay. Well," so runs Uncle Richard's story, "it took a long time to get matters settled; they 'confabbed' till after daybreak. Then Arnold started back to the post which he had plotted to surrender. But daylight was no time for Andre to return to the "Vulture," so he hung round waiting for night.

"During that day, some men who were working for James Horton, a farmer on the ridge overlooking the river, who gave his men good rations of cider, drank a little too much of the hard stuff. They felt good, and thought it would be a fine joke to load and fire off an old disabled cannon which lay a mile or so away on the bank. They hauled it to the point now called Cockroft Point, propped it up, and then the spirit of fun—and hard cider—prompted them to train the old piece on the British ship "Vulture," lying at anchor in the Bay. The "Vulture's" people must have overestimated the source of the fire, for the ship dropped down the river, and Andre had to abandon the idea of returning by that means. He crossed the river at King's Ferry, and while on his way overland was captured at Tarrytown.

"Of course, the three brave men who refused to be bribed deserve all the glory they ever had; if it were not for them, who knows but the revolutionary war would have had a different ending. But they never would have had a chance to capture Andre if it had not been for[page 91]James Horton's men warming up on hard cider. Hard cider broke the plans of Arnold, it hung Andre, and it saved West Point." A boy misguided Grouchyen routeto Waterloo. On what small hinges turn the destinies of nations!

A slanting ray lingered on the woody crests of theprecipices that overhung the river, giving greater depthto the dark-gray and purple of the rocky sides.Washington Irving.

A slanting ray lingered on the woody crests of theprecipices that overhung the river, giving greater depthto the dark-gray and purple of the rocky sides.

A slanting ray lingered on the woody crests of the

precipices that overhung the river, giving greater depth

to the dark-gray and purple of the rocky sides.

Washington Irving.

All the way from Anthony's Nose to Beverley Dock, where we have been lingering over the story of Andre, we have been literally turning a kaleidoscope of blended history and beauty, with scarcely time to note the delightful homes on the west bank, just above Fort Montgomery. Among them J. Pierpont Morgan's and the Pells', John Bigelow's and "Benny Havens'," or on the east bank of Hamilton Fish, just above Beverley Dock, Samuel Sloan and the late William H. Osborn, just north of Sugar Loaf Mountain; the mountain being so named as it resembles, to one coming up the river, the old-fashioned conical-shaped sugar-loaf, which was formerly suspended by a string over the centre of the hospitable Dutch tables, and swung around to be occasionally nibbled at, which in good old Knickerbocker days, was thought to be the best and only orthodox way of sweetening tea.

Buttermilk Falls, so christened by Washington Irving, is a pretty little cascade on the west bank. Like sparkling wit, it is often dry, and the tourist is exceptionally fortunate who sees it in full-dress costume after a heavy shower, when it rushes over the rocks in floods of snow-white foam. Highland Falls is the name of a small village a short distance west of the river, on the bluff, but not seen from the deck of the steamer.

The large building above the rocky channel is Lady Cliff, the Academy of Our Lady of Angels, under the Franciscan Sisters at Peekskill, opened September, 1900. It was originally built for a hotel, and widely known as Cranston's Hotel and Landing. As the steamer is now approaching the west bank we see above us the Cullum Memorial Hall, completed in 1899, a bequest of the late George W. Cullum of the class of 1833. The still[page 92]newer structure to the south is the officers' messroom, crowning the crest above the landing.

Then, as you nearer draw, each wooded heightPuts off the azure hues by distance given!And slowly breaks upon the enamored sight,Ravine, crag, field and wood in colors true and bright.Theodore S. Fay.

Then, as you nearer draw, each wooded heightPuts off the azure hues by distance given!And slowly breaks upon the enamored sight,Ravine, crag, field and wood in colors true and bright.

Then, as you nearer draw, each wooded height

Puts off the azure hues by distance given!

And slowly breaks upon the enamored sight,

Ravine, crag, field and wood in colors true and bright.

Theodore S. Fay.

West Point, taken all in all, is the most beautiful tourist spot on the Hudson. Excursionists by the Day Boats from New York, returning by afternoon steamer, have three hours to visit the various places of history and beauty. To make an easy mathematical formula or picturesque "rule of three" statement, what Quebec is to the St. Lawrence, West Point is to the Hudson. If the citadel of Quebec is more imposing, the view of the Hudson at this place is grander than that of the St. Lawrence, and the ruins of Fort Putnam are almost as venerable as the Heights of Abraham. The sensation of the visitor is, moreover, somewhat the same in both places as to the environment of law and authority. To get the daily character and quality of West Point one should spend at least twenty-four hours within its borders, and a good hotel, the only one on the Government grounds, will be found central and convenient to everything of interest. The parade and drills at sunset hour can best be seen in this way.

The United States Military Academy.—Soon after the close of the War of the Revolution, Washington suggested West Point as the site of a military academy, and, in 1793, in his annual message, recommended it to Congress, which in 1794 organized a corps of artillerists to be here stationed with thirty-two cadets, enlarging the number in 1798 to fifty-six. In 1808 it was increased to one hundred and fifty-six, and in 1812 to two hundred and sixty.

Up to 1812 only 71 cadets had been graduated. The roll of graduates now numbers about 5,000.

Each Congressman has the appointment of one cadet, supplemented by ten appointed by the President of the United States. These cadets are members of the regular army, subject to its regulations for eight years, viz: during four years of study and four years after graduating. The candidates are examined in June, each year, and[page 93]must be physically sound as well as mentally qualified. The course is very thorough, especially in higher mathematics. The cadets go into camp in July and August, and this is the pleasantest time to visit the point.

Enchanted place, hemmed in by mountain walls,By bristling guns and Hudson's restful shore.Kenneth Bruce.

Enchanted place, hemmed in by mountain walls,By bristling guns and Hudson's restful shore.

Enchanted place, hemmed in by mountain walls,

By bristling guns and Hudson's restful shore.

Kenneth Bruce.

The plans furnished by the architects of the new building will entirely change the appearance of the river front. The proposed massive structure crowning the cliff will "out-castle" the most massive fortifications of the walled cities of Europe. $7,500,000 has been appropriated to the work by Congress and the next generation will behold a new West Point.

In the rebuilding of the Post the Cadet Chapel, the Riding Hall, the Administration Building and some of the Officers' Quarters will be removed. Most of the old important buildings, however, will not be disturbed, and the Chapel will be placed as it were "intact" on another site. The plan leaves untouched the Cadet Barracks, the Cadet Mess, the Memorial Hall, the Library and the Officers' Mess. The tower of the new Post Headquarters will rise high and massive several stories above the other structures and present in enduring symbol the republic standing four square and firm throughout the ages.

In the "West Point Souvenir," prepared by W. H. Tripp, which every visitor will prize, are many suggestions and descriptions of value. From many visits and many sources we condense the following brevities:

The Cadet Barrackswas built in 1845-51 of native granite. In 1882 the western wing was extended adding two divisions.

The Academy Buildingis immediately opposite the Headquarters, of Massachusetts granite, erected in 1891-95, and cost about $500,000. It contains recitation and lecture rooms of all departments of instruction.

The Ordnance Museumcontains an interesting and extensive exhibit of ancient and modern firearms, also many valuable trophies from the Revolutionary, Mexican, Civil and Spanish wars.

Among the fair and lovely Highlands of the Hudson,shut in by deep green heights and ruined forts, hemmedin all round with memories of Washington, there couldbe no more appropriate ground for the military schoolof America.Charles Dickens.

Among the fair and lovely Highlands of the Hudson,

shut in by deep green heights and ruined forts, hemmed

in all round with memories of Washington, there could

be no more appropriate ground for the military school

of America.

Charles Dickens.

[page 94]

The Cadet Chapel, immediately north of the Administration Building, was erected in 1834. The chapel contains many valuable trophies of the Revolutionary and Mexican wars, including three Hessian and two British flags that were once the property of Washington. The walls have many memorial tablets and a famous "blank" of Arnold. Here also are several cannon surrendered at Saratoga, October 17, 1777.

The Administration Buildingwas completed in 1871.

The Libraryadjoins the Cadet Chapel on the east, built of native granite in 1841, costing about $15,000. In 1900 the building was entirely reconstructed of fire-proof material by appropriation of $80,000. The exterior walls of the original building entered into the remodeled structure. The Library, founded in 1812, has about 50,000 volumes.

The Gymnasiumadjoins the Barracks on the west, erected of native granite, costing $90,000.

Memorial Hall, plainly seen from the Hudson, completed in 1899, is of Ionic architecture. The building cost $268,000, a legacy bequeathed by Gen. George W. Cullum, built of Milford granite for army trophies of busts, paintings and memorials. The bronze statute of Gen. John Sedgwick in the northwest angle of the plain was dedicated in 1868. The fine cenotaph of Italian marble was erected in 1885. It stands immediately in front of Memorial Hall.

Kosciusko's Monumentwas erected in 1828. It stands in the northeast angle of Fort Clinton.

The Chain-Batterywalk runs from Kosciusko's Garden northward to Light House Point, near which was the battery that defended the chain across the river in the Revolution. The scene is of great beauty and has been known for many years by the name of "Flirtation Walk."

Where Kosciusko dreamed and proud scenes bringTo mind the stormy days when LibertyWas cradled at West Point—the Highlands' key.Kenneth Bruce.

Where Kosciusko dreamed and proud scenes bringTo mind the stormy days when LibertyWas cradled at West Point—the Highlands' key.

Where Kosciusko dreamed and proud scenes bring

To mind the stormy days when Liberty

Was cradled at West Point—the Highlands' key.

Kenneth Bruce.

BATTLE MONUMENT, WEST POINTBATTLE MONUMENT, WEST POINT

The Battle Monument, on Trophy Point, is the most beautiful on the reservation—a column of victory in memory of 2,230 officers and soldiers of the regular army[page 95]of the United States who were killed or died of wounds received in the war of the Rebellion. It is a monolith of polished granite surmounted by a figure of Fame. The shaft is 46 feet in length, 5 feet in diameter, and said to be the largest piece of polished stone in the world. The cost of the work was $66,000. The site was dedicated June 15, 1864. The monument was dedicated in 1897. The address was by Justice Brewer.

Trophy Point, on the north side of the plain, overlooking the river and commanding a majestic view of the Hudson and the city of Newburgh, has been likened by European travelers to a view on Lake Geneva. Here are the "swivel clevies" and 16 links of the old chain that was stretched across the river at this point. The whole chain, 1,700 feet long, weighing 186 tons, was forged at the Sterling Iron Works, transported to New Windsor and there attached to log booms and floated down the river to this point.

Old Fort Putnamwas erected in 1778 by the 5th Massachusetts Regiment under the direction of Col. Rufus Putnam. It was originally constructed of logs and trees with stone walls on two sides to defend Fort Clinton on the plain below. It was garrisoned by 450 men, and had 14 guns mounted. In 1787 it was dismantled, and the guns sold as old iron. Its brick arch casements overgrown with moss, vines, and shrubbery are crumbling away, but are well worth a visit. It is 495 feet above the Hudson. A winding picturesque carriage road leads up from the plain, and the pedestrian can reach the summit in 20 minutes. On clear days the Catskill Mountains are visible.

Fort Clinton, in the northeast angle of the plain, was built in 1778 under the direction of the Polish soldier, Kosciusko. Sea Coast Battery is located on the north waterfront, Siege Battery on the slope of the hill below the Battle Monument. Targets for the guns on both batteries are on the hillside about a mile distant. Battery[page 96]Knox, which overlooks the river, was rebuilt in 1874 on the site of an old revolutionary redoubt.

Bright are the moments link'd with thee,Boast of a glory-hallowed land!Hope of the valiant and the free,Home of our youthful soldier band!Anonymous.

Bright are the moments link'd with thee,Boast of a glory-hallowed land!Hope of the valiant and the free,Home of our youthful soldier band!

Bright are the moments link'd with thee,

Boast of a glory-hallowed land!

Hope of the valiant and the free,

Home of our youthful soldier band!

Anonymous.

While Fort Putnam was being built Washington was advised that Dubois's regiment was unfit to be ordered on duty, there being "not one blanket in the regiment. Very few have either a shoe or a shirt, and most of them have neither stockings, breeches, or overalls. Several companies of inlisted artificers are in the same situation, and unable to work in the field."

What privations were here endured to establish our priceless liberty! It makes better Americans of us all to turn and re-turn the pages of the real Hudson, the most picturesque volume of the world's history.

West Point during the Revolution was the Gibraltar of the Hudson and her forts were regarded almost impregnable. Fort Putnam will be rebuilt as an enduring monument to the bravery of American soldiers.

The best way to study West Point, however, is not in voluminous histories or in the condensed pages of a guide book, but to visit it and see its real life, to wander amid its old associations, and ask, when necessary, intelligent questions, which are everywhere courteously answered. The view north seen in a summer evening, is one long to be remembered. In such an hour the writer's idea of the Hudson as an open book with granite pages and crystal book-mark is most completely realized as indicated in the Highland section of his poem, "The Hudson":

On either side these mountain glensLie open like a massive book,Whose words were graved with iron pens,And lead into the eternal rock:Which evermore shall here retainThe annals time cannot erase,And while these granite leaves remainThis crystal ribbon marks the place.

On either side these mountain glensLie open like a massive book,Whose words were graved with iron pens,And lead into the eternal rock:

On either side these mountain glens

Lie open like a massive book,

Whose words were graved with iron pens,

And lead into the eternal rock:

Which evermore shall here retainThe annals time cannot erase,And while these granite leaves remainThis crystal ribbon marks the place.

Which evermore shall here retain

The annals time cannot erase,

And while these granite leaves remain

This crystal ribbon marks the place.

Under Spring's delicate marshalling every hill of theHighlands took its own place, and the soft swells ofground stood back the one from the other in more andmore tender coloring.Susan Warner.

Under Spring's delicate marshalling every hill of theHighlands took its own place, and the soft swells ofground stood back the one from the other in more andmore tender coloring.

Under Spring's delicate marshalling every hill of the

Highlands took its own place, and the soft swells of

ground stood back the one from the other in more and

more tender coloring.

Susan Warner.

LOOKING NORTH FROM WEST POINT BATTERYLOOKING NORTH FROM WEST POINT BATTERY

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The steamer passes too near the west bank to give a view of the magnificent plateau with parade ground and Government buildings, but on rounding the point a picture of marvelous beauty breaks at once upon the vision. On the left the massive indented ridge of Old Cro' Nest and Storm King, and on the right Mount Taurus, or Bull Hill, and Break Neck, while still further beyond toward the east sweeps the Fishkill range, sentineled by South Beacon, 1,625 feet in height, from whose summit midnight gleams aroused the countryside for leagues and scores of miles during those seven long years when men toiled and prayed for freedom. Close at hand on the right will be seen Constitution Island, formerly the home of Miss Susan Warner, who died in 1885, author of "Queechy" and the "Wide, Wide World." Here the ruins of the old fort are seen. The place was once called Martalaer's Rock Island. A chain was stretched across the river at this point to intercept the passage of boats up the Hudson, but proved ineffectual, like the one at Anthony's Nose, as the impetus of the boats snapped them both like cords.

Some years ago, when the first delegation of Apache Indians was brought to Washington to sign a treaty of peace, the Indians were taken for an "outing" up the Hudson, by General O. O. Howard and Dr. Herman Bendell, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for Arizona. It is said that they noted with cold indifference the palaces along the river front: "the artistic terraces, the well-kept, sloping lawns, the clipped hedges and the ivy-grown walls made no impression on them, but when the magnificent picture of the Hudson above West Point revealed itself, painted by the rays of the sinking sun, these wild men stood erect, raised their hands high above their heads and uttered a monosyllabic expression of[page 98]delight, which was more expressive than volumes of words."

The queenly Hudson circling at thy feetLingers to sing a song of joy and love,Pouring her heart in rippling wavelets sweet,Which sun-kissed glance up to thy throne above.Kenneth Bruce.

The queenly Hudson circling at thy feetLingers to sing a song of joy and love,Pouring her heart in rippling wavelets sweet,Which sun-kissed glance up to thy throne above.

The queenly Hudson circling at thy feet

Lingers to sing a song of joy and love,

Pouring her heart in rippling wavelets sweet,

Which sun-kissed glance up to thy throne above.

Kenneth Bruce.

Sir Robert Temple also rises into rapture over the northern gate of the Highlands. "One of the fairest spectacles to be seen on the earth's surface; not on any other river or strait—not on Ganges or Indus, on the Dardanelles or the Bosphorus, on the Danube or the Rhine, on the Neva or the Nile—have I ever observed so fairy-like a scene as this on the Hudson. The only water-view to rival it is that of the Sea of Marmora, opposite Constantinople."

Most people who visit our river, naturally desire a brilliant sunlit day for their journey, and with reason, but there are effects, in fog and rain and driving mist, only surpassed amid the Kyles of Bute, in Scotland. The traveler is fortunate, who sees the Hudson in many phases, and under various atmospheric conditions. A midnight view is peculiarly impressive when the mountain spirits of Rodman Drake answer to the call of his "Culprit Fay."

"'Tis the middle watch of a summer night,The earth is dark but the heavens are bright,The moon looks down on Old Cro' Nest—She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast,And seems his huge gray form to throwIn a silver cone on the wave below."

"'Tis the middle watch of a summer night,

The earth is dark but the heavens are bright,

The moon looks down on Old Cro' Nest—

She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast,

And seems his huge gray form to throw

In a silver cone on the wave below."

It is said that the "Culprit Fay" was written by Drake in three days, and grew out of a discussion which took place during a stroll through this part of the Highlands between Irving, Halleck, Cooper and himself, as to the filling of a new country with old-time legends. Drake died in 1820. Halleck's lines to his memory are among the sweetest in our language. It is said that Halleck, on hearing Drake read his poem, "The American Flag," sprang to his feet, and in a semi-poetic transport, concluded the lines with burning words, which Drake afterwards appended:

[page 99]

"Forever float that standard sheet,Where breathes the foe but falls before us,With Freedom's soil beneath our feet,And Freedom's banner streaming o'er us."

"Forever float that standard sheet,

Where breathes the foe but falls before us,

With Freedom's soil beneath our feet,

And Freedom's banner streaming o'er us."

It floweth deep and strong and wideThis river of romanceAlong whose banks on moonlight nightsThe Highland fairies dance.E.A. Lente.

It floweth deep and strong and wideThis river of romanceAlong whose banks on moonlight nightsThe Highland fairies dance.

It floweth deep and strong and wide

This river of romance

Along whose banks on moonlight nights

The Highland fairies dance.

E.A. Lente.

Just opposite Old Cro' Nest is the village of Cold Spring, on the east bank, which receives its name naturally from a cold spring in the vicinity; and it is interesting to remember that the famous Parrott guns were made at this place, and many implements of warfare during our civil strife. The foundry was started by Gouverneur Kemble in 1828, and brought into wide renown by the inventive genius of Major Parrott. Cold Spring has a further distinction in having the first ground broken, about three miles from the river, for the greatest engineering enterprise of the age—"The Water Supply of the Catskills," when Mayor McClellan, in June, 1907, began the work with his silver shovel. A short distance north of the village is

Undercliff(built by John C. Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamilton, but more particularly associated with the memory of the poet, Col. George P. Morris), lies, in fact,under the cliffand shadow of Mount Taurus, and has a fine outlook upon the river and surrounding mountains. Standing on the piazza, we see directly in front of us Old Cro' Nest, and it was here that the poet wrote:

"Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sandsWinds through the hills afar,Old Cro' Nest like a monarch standsCrowned with a single star."

"Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands

Winds through the hills afar,

Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands

Crowned with a single star."

Few writers were better known in their own day than the poet of Undercliff, who wrote "My Mother's Bible," and "Woodman, Spare that Tree." On one occasion, when Mr. Russell was singing it at Boulogne, an old gentleman in the audience, moved by the simple and touching beauty of the lines,

"Forgive the foolish tear,But let the old oak stand."

"Forgive the foolish tear,

But let the old oak stand."

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rose and said: "I beg your pardon, but was the tree really spared?" "It was," answered Mr. Russell, and the old gentleman resumed his seat, amid the plaudits of the whole assembly. Truly

"Its glory and renownAre spread o'er land and sea."

"Its glory and renown

Are spread o'er land and sea."

When freedom from her mountain heightUnfurled her standard to the air,She tore the azure robe of nightAnd set the stars of glory there.Joseph Rodman Drake.

When freedom from her mountain heightUnfurled her standard to the air,She tore the azure robe of nightAnd set the stars of glory there.

When freedom from her mountain height

Unfurled her standard to the air,

She tore the azure robe of night

And set the stars of glory there.

Joseph Rodman Drake.

The first European name given to Storm King was Klinkersberg (so called by Hendrick Hudson, from its glistening and broken rock). It was styled by the Dutch "Butter Hill," from its shape, and, with Sugar Loaf on the eastern side below the point, helped to set out the tea-table for the Dunderberg goblins. It was christened by Willis, "Storm King," and may well be regarded the El Capitan of the Highlands. Breakneck is opposite, on the east side, where St. Anthony's Face was blasted away. In this mountain solitude there was a shade of reason in giving that solemn countenance of stone the name of St. Anthony, as a good representative of monastic life; and, by a quiet sarcasm, the full-length nose below was probably suggested.

The mountain opposite Cro' Nest is "Bull Hill," or more classically, "Mt. Taurus." It is said that there was formerly a wild bull in these mountains, which had failed to win the respect and confidence of the inhabitants, so the mountaineers organized a hunt and drove him over the hill, whose name stands a monument to his exit. The point at the foot of "Mount Taurus" is known as "Little Stony Point."

The Highlands now trend off to the northeast, and we see North Beacon, or Grand Sachem Mountain, and Old Beacon about half a mile to the north. The mountains were relit with beacon-fires in 1883, in honor of the centennials of Fishkill and Newburgh, and were plainly seen sixty miles distant.

This section was known by the Indians as "Wequehache," or, "the Hill Country," and the entire range was[page 101]called by the Indians "the endless hills," a name not inappropriate to this mountain bulwark reaching from New England to the Carolinas. As pictured in our "Long Drama," given at the Newburgh centennial of the disbanding of the American Army,

That ridge along our eastern coast,From Carolina to the Sound,Opposed its front to Britain's host,And heroes at each pass were found:A vast primeval palisade,With bastions bold and wooded crest,A bulwark strong by nature madeTo guard the valley of the west.Along its heights the beacons gleamed,It formed the nation's battle-line,Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamedThe soldier-seers of Palestine.

That ridge along our eastern coast,From Carolina to the Sound,Opposed its front to Britain's host,And heroes at each pass were found:

That ridge along our eastern coast,

From Carolina to the Sound,

Opposed its front to Britain's host,

And heroes at each pass were found:

A vast primeval palisade,With bastions bold and wooded crest,A bulwark strong by nature madeTo guard the valley of the west.

A vast primeval palisade,

With bastions bold and wooded crest,

A bulwark strong by nature made

To guard the valley of the west.

Along its heights the beacons gleamed,It formed the nation's battle-line,Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamedThe soldier-seers of Palestine.

Along its heights the beacons gleamed,

It formed the nation's battle-line,

Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamed

The soldier-seers of Palestine.

It was also believed by the Indians that, in ancient days, "before the Hudson poured its waters from the lakes, the Highlands formed one vast prison, within whose rocky bosom the omnipotent Manitou confined the rebellious spirits who repined at his control. Here, bound in adamantine chains, or jammed in rifted pines, or crushed by ponderous rocks, they groaned for many an age. At length the conquering Hudson, in its career toward the ocean, burst open their prison-house, rolling its tide triumphantly through the stupendous ruins."

The Highlands are here moulded in all manner ofheights and hollows; sometimes reaching up abruptly totwelve or fifteen hundred feet, and again stretchingaway in long gorges and gentle declivities.Susan Warner.

The Highlands are here moulded in all manner ofheights and hollows; sometimes reaching up abruptly totwelve or fifteen hundred feet, and again stretchingaway in long gorges and gentle declivities.

The Highlands are here moulded in all manner of

heights and hollows; sometimes reaching up abruptly to

twelve or fifteen hundred feet, and again stretching

away in long gorges and gentle declivities.

Susan Warner.

Pollopel's Island, east of the steamer's route, was once regarded as a haunted spot, but its only witches are said to be snakes too lively to be enchanted. In old times, the "new hands" on the sloops were unceremoniously dipped at this place, so as to be proof-christened against the goblins of the Highlands. Here also another useless "impediment" was put across the Hudson in 1779, a chevaux-de-frise with iron-pointed spikes thirty feet long, hidden under water, strongly secured by cribs of stone. This, however, was not broken and would probably have done effective work if some traitor to the cause had not[page 102]guided the British captains through an unprotected passage. The State at one time contemplated the purchase of this island on which to erect a statue to Hendrick Hudson. For some reason Governor Flower vetoed the bill. It is now owned by Mr. Francis Bannerman, an energetic business man, who perhaps some day may see his way to promote a monument to Hudson on the splendid pedestal which nature has already completed.

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