After having stay’d some time atFlorence, I set out forRome, takingSiennain my Way, which is an Archiepiscopal City that makes a Part ofTuscany. The Cathedral Church is built all of black and white Marble. FromSiennaI went toMontefiascone, a City and Bishoprick in the Patrimony of St.Peter. My Design was to have gone through this Town without stopping, but the bad Weather oblig’d me to stay at the Post-house: There was such a deep Snow, and at the same time the Wind was so high, and the Cold so terrible, that the Inhabitants told me, that in the Memory of Man they had not known it so violent. I made no great Scruple to believe them, especially after what happen’d to me at the Post-house. The Master of the House carry’d me up Stairs into a great Room, where I found two Gentlemen, the one anItalian, the other aGerman, who were both come fromRome, and obliged, as I was, by the bad Weather to stay atMontefiascone. As we were talking together by the Fire-side, I observ’d a very odd Motion as if we had been rock’d. As I had never felt an Earthquake, I concluded this to be one; but theItaliantold me the Motion was too regular, and that, to be sure, it proceeded from some other Cause: And in a very few Moments we were convinc’d that it was the Wind which shook us in this Manner. As we had Reason to fear that the House would tumble upon our Heads, we desir’d our Landlordto put us in some Place where our Lives would not be in so much Danger. The Man laugh’d to see us so affrighted, and to encourage us he said that his House had totter’d as much for these 30 Years past, without receiving any Damage, and that therefore it was like to stand a good while longer: But this was not Reason sufficient to satisfy me of the Stability of his House; on the contrary, thought I, an Earthquake which had happen’d to a House off and on for a matter of 30 Years, must, ere long, bring it to the Ground: And besides, as I had always met with bad Fortune, it was but prudent not to expose myself in Harm’s Way; I resolv’d therefore to go down Stairs, the two Gentlemen in my Company did the same, and our Landlord carry’d us to an opposite House, where really we were in a worse Pickle than before. The Fire was no sooner kindled, but we had like to have been suffocated with the Smoak; and we were fain to set open every Window and Door, to let in Air; but the Violence of the Wind was such that we could bear the Room no longer, and we were oblig’d to shift our Quarters again. We went into the Town, in Hopes of faring better there; but ’twas our Lot to fall into one of the most detestable Victualling-Houses in the World; yet we resolv’d to stay there, because there fortunately happen’d to be a Chimney that did not smoak; but while we were thinking we should have some Amends for the Cold we had suffer’d in these Removes, as if it had been decreed that we should have one thing or another to plague us all Day long, this very Chimney took Fire, which alarming the Town, every body flock’d to the Place, and by good Luck the Fire was soon extinguish’d;nevertheless, the Mob join’d in a Halloo against us, as if we had been the Incendiaries, so that I expected every Moment we should be sent to Gaol, till we scatter’d our Money, and then our Fears vanish’d; but the Consequence of all this Noise was, that we were forbid to have a Fire in our Chamber, so that we were forc’d to put up with that which was made in one of the nastiest Kitchens that could be.
FromMontefiasconeI went in a Day and half toRome[20], to which City all the Way fromFlorenceis over Hills and Mountains: The Roads belonging to the Dominions ofTuscanyare kept in good Order, and Care has been taken to render them as passable as the Nature of them will permit, by levelling Hills, and making noble Causeys; but as soon as one enters the Ecclesiastical State, the Ways are so terribly bad, that ’tis a hard Matter to get through them. I stopp’d my Chaise about a League fromRomeupon an Eminence, from whence is a Descent toPonte-Mole. There I cast my Eyes over that great City, and had a Fore-Taste of the Pleasure I should have, when I came to take my Progress thro’ its several Quarters. After having satisfy’d this first Curiosity, I proceeded on my Journey: I pass’d theTyberover thePonte-Mole, and struck into a pav’d Road, which carry’d me for a long time between Gardens and Pleasure-houses, till I came to the famous City ofRome. I enter’d it thro’ the Gatedel Popoli, which led me into a triangular Square of the same Name, consisting of Two Rows of very sorry Houses, and of a Third, which is somewhat better.Here are Two broad Streets, which open in Form of a Goose’s Foot, and are separated from one another by Two fine Churches of equal Architecture. In the midst of this Square is the famous Obelisk erected bySixtusV.
From this Square I went to the Custom-house, where I had my Baggage search’d. There’s a magnificent Front to this Custom-house, which is a stately Portico, supported by large Pillars of Oriental Granite. As soon as the Searchers had done rummaging all my Things, I went on to theHotelofMonte d’Oron the Square ofSpain, which is but an indifferent Place, being a long and very irregular Square encompass’d with a Parcel of ill-contriv’d Houses, and a Fountain at one End, which serves for a Watering Place.
Next Day after my Arrival, my Curiosity carry’d me to visitSt. Peter’s Church: The first thing I saw in my Way, going from my Lodgings, was the Bridge ofSt. Angeloupon theTyber, which fronts the Castle of the same Name: This Bridge is of a fine Breadth, with Marble Banisters on each Side, on which, at proper Distances, are Angels of Marble, of wonderful Workmanship. The Castle ofSt. Angelois, as I have said, over-against the Bridge: This is a great Tower, encompass’d with Bastions, which serves as a Citadel to the City ofRome, and a Place of Retreat to the Pope in a time of War or Rebellion; it communicates by a long Gallery with theVaticanPalace: As we go off of the Bridge ofSt. Angelo, we pass for some time on the Banks of theTyber, over a Key that is on the left Hand. From thence we go thro’ several Streets to the famous Square ofSt. Peter’s Church, which may be term’d the chief Square in the Universe. It was design’d by the celebratedBernini, and executed in the manner as it now appears to us by PopeAlexanderVII. ’Tis an Oval, encompass’d with a great Gallery, supported by 324 Pillars of Free-Stone; the Top is adorn’d with a Balustrade, on which, at proper Spaces, are the Statues of the Twelve Apostles and other Saints, and the Arms of PopeAlexanderVII. In this Square we see the famous Obelisk, which was rais’d by Order ofSixtusV. in 1586, in the middle between Two noble Fountains. The Gallery, that runs roundSt. Peter’s Square, leads on both Sides to the Portico of the Church, which is a Piece of Work that one can never be weary of admiring. For whether we consider the Materials, or the Skill of the Architect by whom it was conducted, they are equally surprizing. The Pavement of the Portico is of Marble, and the Ceiling of Stucco gilt: It leads on the Right Hand to the grand Stair-case of theVatican, and there’s a cover’d Gallery over it, where the Pope appears uponHoly-ThursdayandEaster-Dayto anathematize Heretics, Schismatics and Infidels; and also to bless the People, who at that time are all kneeling in the Square, and in the Streets which lead to it. The principal Entrance of the Portico is answerable to the great Gate of the Church, which is of Brass, and on one Side of it is that call’dla Porta Santa, or the Holy Gate, that is never open’d except on the grand Jubilees, which are only once in 25 Years.
But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will, ’tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver, Brass, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Piecesof the most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.
The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very spacious and lofty Dome in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted inMosaic. Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel’d for its Magnificence: ’Tis rais’d some Steps from the Ground, and stands by itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the sacred College, that can say Mass at it: Four wreathed Columns of Brass, with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion, which is intirely of Brass: ’Tis adorn’d withBasso-Relievo’s, and especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of PopeUrbanVIII. of theBarberiniFamily, who caus’d this noble Pavilion to be erected. Over each Pillar is an Angel of Brass gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under the Altar is the Tomb of the ApostlesSt. PeterandSt. Paul, to which is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The whole is adorn’d with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the Workmanship of which even surpasses the Beauty of the Materials. These Steps are encompass’d with Banisters of Brass, on which a great Number of Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except onGood Friday.
St. Peter’s Chair is over-against the great Altar; ’tis all of Brass, and very high; ’tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose Colossal Statues are of Brass gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Brass, which reaches tothe Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes.
I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of theItalianCities, and especiallyRome, offer to the Eyes of the curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred Travellers have already describ’d at large; I therefore silently pass over several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading of several Travels toItaly: I will only tell you by the way, that I was astonish’d at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famousChristinaQueen ofSweden, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and turn’d Catholic, at last fix’d her Residence atRome, where she dy’d. This Princess was interr’d inSt. Peter’s Church, where a magnificent Tomb of Marble and Brass was erected for her; and there’s her Picture in a Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess’s Tomb, is that of the famous CountessMatilda, whose Memory ought to be very dear to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which the Church ever had.
Besides the Inside and Outside ofSt. Peter’s Church, there are Places under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there lin’d with Marble, whose Altars are adorn’d withMosaicPaintings, to fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome,which supports its Cross: From hence there’s a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles.
I went fromSt. Peter’s Church to see theVaticanPalace, which joins to it: This was formerly the Pope’s common Residence, but for some time past they have given the Palace ofMonte Cavallothe Preference to it, that being said to be in a much healthier Air. TheVaticanis a very irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must be a great Number of Apartments. ’Tis accompany’d with a Garden, at the End of which is a House call’dBelvedere, because of the fine Prospect there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope’s Apartments are very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn’d with a broad Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter’d into a great Apartment, which was heretofore richly furnish’d for the Reception ofPhilipV. King of Spain, at the time when he was inItaly, and expected atRome.
The famousVaticanLibrary is also worth the Traveller’s View, being full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much augmented by theHeidelbergLibrary, and that of the Duke ofUrbino.
After having satisfy’d my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I thought of making some Visits: I went to the MarquisC——, and to the DukeS——, for whom I had Letters given me atFlorence. Those Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer’d to shew me the Curiosities atRome, and to introduce me to the Assemblies. In Fact the MarquisC——carry’dme the very same Day toMadame de B——, where I found a very fine Assembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especiallyAbbes, smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicestPetit-Maitresin the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress’d, and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to engross them so, that there seem’d to be no Possibility of coming near them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play. There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me to beMonsieur l’ Abbe. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that introduc’d me, with whom I talk’d now-and-then, I should have made a very queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the Assembly broke up, and was very glad when I got out.
Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me the greatest Curiosities atRome: He carry’d me first to the most considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was theTrajanSquare, in the middle whereof stands the famousTrajanPillar, so call’d from the EmperorTrajan, who began it, tho’ ’twas not finish’d till after his Death: ’Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of Marble, and representsTrajan’s principal Actions inBasso-Relievo. This Column was rais’d higher by PopeSixtusV. whohadSt. Peter’s Statue plac’d on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say contain’d the Ashes of the EmperorTrajan.
My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the PlaceNavona, which forms a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches.
We went to see the Church ofSt. John de Lateran, which may be deem’d the Mother and Chief of all the Churches inChristendom: It owes its Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus’d it to be built with extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: ’Tis not indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture asSt. Peter’s Church, but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height and Circumference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome, which, ’tis said, wasConstantine’s Baptistery, but this last Article is not absolutely certain.
From this Church I went to theScala-Santa, which is a Building of Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico’s form the principal Front; that in the middle leads to theScala-Santa, or Holy Stair-case; so call’d because ’tis said the Steps of it are the same that form’d the Stair-case ofPilate’s Palace, by which our Lord descended, after he was scourg’d. Everybody goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels. ’Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call’d theSancta-Sanctorum. On one Side of thisScala-Santathere are Two little Stair-cases, for those that don’t care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform’d this Act of Devotion.
When I had seen theScala-Santa, my Guide conducted me to theColiseum, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, thatVespasianbegan this superb Structure, and that his SonTitusfinish’d it, and entertain’d the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of theColiseumis an Oval, encompass’d with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to the Opinion of some Authors, contain’d above 85,000 Spectators: ’Tis great Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv’d.UrbanVIII. of theBarberiniFamily, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of theColiseum, and to build therewith theBarberiniPalace. The little that remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that ’tis very probable, the next Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the Prints that we have of it.
ThePantheon, or our Ladyde la Rotonda, is the only ancient Edifice that has been preserv’d: ’Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to the Top of the Dome ’tis 144 Feet:Agrippa, the Favourite and Son-in-Law of the EmperorAugustus, caus’d this Temple to be built in Honour of all the Heathen Gods; and ’tis now a Church, dedicated toAll the Saints. The onlyLight it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof, which, tho’ somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was formerly cover’d with Brass, butUrbanVIII. caus’d it to be taken off, and employ’d in the building of the High Altar ofSt. Peter’s Church; which occasion’d his Enemies to say,That theBarberinihad done, what theBarbariansdurst not attempt.
At my Return from this Ramble I found at my Lodgings the Dukede S——, who came to carry me to the Assembly atMadame de S——. The Company there was not very numerous, nor did I find it any more diverting than that to which I was introduc’d before: There were few Ladies, and scarce any Gentlemen of the Sword, but Abbes in Abundance: I plainly perceiv’d, that the Assemblies atRomewere not the most entertaining to a Foreigner, and therefore I resolv’d, which I think was much better, to employ myself in viewing the various Curiosities of the City. I went to the Capitol, being every where accompany’d by my trusty Antiquarian: ’Tis a Building compos’d of Three distinct Apartments, detach’d from one another; Two of which form the advanc’d Wings, and all Three are built of Free-Stone: They stand upon a Hill, to which is an Ascent by a great Marble Stair-case: The Court before this Building is a spacious Oval, to which is a Descent by Three Steps of Marble: In the middle is the Equestrian Statue of the EmperorMarcus Aurelius, a noble Remnant of Antiquity.
From the Capitol I went to the Pope’s Palace, call’dMonte-Cavallo, from the Name of the Hill on which it stands. This of all the Palaces ofRomeis one that enjoys the finest Prospect, and the best Air: It was built by Order of PopePaulV. The Gardens which belong to it are large, but not so beautiful, as to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Palace. After having sufficiently view’d it, I return’d to my Quarters, where I had appointed the Marquisde A——to come and go along with me to the CardinalCorsini. His Eminency, who had an Assembly at is House every Night, gave me a very kind Reception, and I found a numerous Company there, which was much more to my Satisfaction than the Two Assemblies I had been at before. The Cardinal did the Honours of his House perfectly well, and took Care that every body should have a Part, either at Play, or in Conversation. I paid my Court to him constantly, and did not fail to be at his Assembly every Night, till I left the City: The rest of the Time I spent in rambling thro’ the several Quarters ofRome, to see what was most remarkable.
After having made this Progress thro’ the Inside of the City, I had a Mind also to view the Out-parts: I was conducted to the famous Vineyards of thePamphiliandBorgheseFamilies, which theItaliansprefer before all the Gardens inEurope; wherein I am not quite of their Opinion. The Statues in these Vineyards are, to my Mind, not to be parallel’d of the Sort, but, as to the Agriculture or Waters, the Gardens ofFranceoutstrip them by far. At the Entrance of theBorgheseVineyard is a large Portico of Marble, which fronts a Walk, at the End whereof is a very large Square, encompass’d with a Marble Balustrade, adorn’d with Statues of the same. This Square serves as a Court to the House, which is not very large, but contains immense Wealth in Statues and Paintings. The Outside is fac’d withBasso-Relievo’sof Marble,amongst which the Statue ofQuintus Curtiuson Horseback, casting himself headlong into the Gulph, is especially to be admir’d.
ThePamphili’s Vineyard is in my Opinion the finest Place in the Suburbs ofRome. The Gardens have an Air of Grandeur and Proportion, which I have not observ’d any where else. The Outside and Inside of the House are lin’d alike withBasso-Relievo’s of Marble of admirable Workmanship. There are also noble Statues, but most of ’em a little damag’d, by reason of the various Fits of Devotion and Lukewarmness of a PrincePamphili, who did these Statues irreparable Injury: For this Prince, in the first hot Fits of his Devotion, caus’d the Nudities of the Statues of this Garden to be plaister’d over; but when that Zeal was abated, he had a Mind to see his Statues again in their former Condition, which being not possible to be done without breaking off the Plaister with the Strokes of a Hammer; the Workman, for Want of due Care, gave some by which several of those Statues were considerably damaged.
All the various Curiosities took up a great deal of my Time, as well as the famousBorgheseandFarnesePalaces, those ofColonna,Palavicini,Barberini, and others, the Description of which I omit. After having thus satisfy’d myself, I thought of being introduced to the Pope, and for that Purpose apply’d to the Cardinaldel Giudice, to whom I had Letters of Recommendation, as I had to the CardinalsGualtieriandOttoboni. I had the Honour to have favourable Audiences of all their three Eminencies. As I was aGerman, I paid my first Visit to the Cardinaldel Giudice, who at that Time had the Care of the Emperor’s Affairs. After a short Stayin his Antichamber, I was Introduc’d to an Audience of him by one of his Gentlemen. This Prelate was not well that Day, and I found him in his Night-Gown, lying on a Couch-Bed; but as soon as he saw me enter, he rose and advanc’d to receive me; after which he sat down again, and made me take an Arm-Chair over-against him. When the Audience was over, he got up, and conducted me to the very Door of his Chamber, where I found his Eminency’s Gentlemen, two of whom waited on me to the Head of the Stairs, and another went down with me, and attended me to my Coach.
CardinalGualtierireceiv’d me also in a most obliging Manner. He gave me Audience in his Closet, where, after the first Greeting, he sat down in an Arm-Chair, made me do the like, and oblig’d me to be cover’d: I was very loth to take that Liberty, but he would be obey’d; and in this Situation I stay’d an Hour at least. I was charm’d with the Behaviour of this Prelate, who of all the Cardinals took the least State upon him. The Tokens he gave me of his Kindness, made me attach myself to him; and I was very assiduous in my Attendance upon him all the Time that I stay’d atRome. He sent one of his Gentlemen with me to the CardinalOttoboni, Protector of the Affairs ofFrance, whom I found in his Closet standing, and in that Posture he remain’d all the Time of my Visit. When I withdrew, I was attended in the same Manner as I had been at the House of the Cardinaldel Giudice.
After I had made a Visit to these three Cardinals, the Cardinaldel Giudiceintroduced me to the Pope, who was at that TimeClementXI. of theAlbaniFamily. The Cardinal had an Audienceof his Holiness by himself first, and then he introduc’d me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc’d to the Middle of the Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to meAventi, Aventi, i.e. Come forwards. I obey’d till I came to his Feet, when I fell on my Knees and kiss’d an embroider’d Cross which was on his Holiness’s Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask’d me several Questions relating to my Conversion, and seem’d so overjoy’d at the Grace God had given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask’d me News about the Sate of Religion inGermany, and highly extoll’d the Zeal which the ElectorPalatinemanifested for the Catholic Religion. He concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss’d me, he made me a Present of severalAgnis Dei’s, two little Medals, one of Gold the other of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent.
I stay’d atRometill Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out onWednesdayin the Holy Week fromMonte Cavallofor theVaticanPalace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and Officers of his Holiness’s Houshold went first, who were all onHorseback in wide Cassocks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my Opinion, long Gowns and flapp’d Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse richly accouter’d, the same which was for his Holiness’s Riding; but on that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the Pope’s Chair march’d two Files of the HundredSwiss, and the Light-Horse clos’d the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to theVaticanPalace.
The next Day, which was HolyThursday, I desir’d CardinalGualtierito get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv’d at the Church, the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I observ’d, sat upon Stools. The ConstableColonnastood near the Pope, with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Mass was ended, the holy Father descended from his Throne, and plac’d himself in a Chair of State which was of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope’s Livery rais’d the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry’d it in that Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico ofSt. Peter’s Church. The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who walk’d two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the HundredSwiss. AllSt. Peter’s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were fullof People: His Holiness’s Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear’d, there was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order’d a Cardinal to read the Bull of Excommunication andAnathema, against Heretics, Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry’d him lifted him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice pronounc’d the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis’d would repent and do public Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were present, and to the whole City ofRomein general, by turning himself about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the Cannon of the Castle ofSt. Angelowere fir’d, and all the Bells of the City were rung, which was accompany’d with the Sound of the Trumpets, Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted inSt. Peter’s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry’d back into his Chapel, where the Tiara which he had woreduring the whole Ceremony, was taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy Sacrament and carry’d it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope retir’d to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being plac’d all in a Row, dress’d in long White Robes, his Holiness wash’d their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow’d by those Thirteen Priests, went into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the Priests sat down, and were serv’d by the Pope and the Cardinals. The Chevalierde St. Georgeand his Princess were present at this Ceremony, with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them, he said,I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands: at the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.
When the Pope was retir’d, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred College assisted at theMiserere, which was sung in the great Chapel with Instrumental Music.
UponEaster-Daythe Pope was present at High-Mass, with all the Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress’d in his Pontificalibus and the Tiara on his Head, was carry’d in the same Manner as upon HolyThursday, to the Gallery which frontsSt. Peter’s Square, where the Soldiers were drawn up in Batallia, and the Peopleon their Knees to receive the Pope’s Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge of all the Artillery from the Castle ofSt. Angelo: Then the Pope retir’d to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I observ’d, that the Churches were always so throng’d, that the People were ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that theItaliansfrequent the Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the excellent Music that is perform’d in them, than from any Motive of Religion.
Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post fromRomewith several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the famous City ofNaples. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin, which the Town encompasses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover’d with Vineyards and delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be imagin’d. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle ofSt. Elmo, built byCharlesV. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.
Naplesis the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is dedicated toSt. Januarius; and in this Church is preserv’d the Head of that Saint, and some Drops of his Blood in a Glass Phyal. We are assur’d, that every Year, upon that Saint’s Festival, the very Instant that they put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens’d, turns Liquid. All the People ofNaplesare Eye-Witnesses of this Miracle,and seem, in my Mind, to have a great Devotion for the Saint. Of this we may easily judge by the Magnificence of his Church, which shines throughout with Gold, Silver, Marble,&c.and ’tis moreover adorn’d with very beautiful Paintings.
The Viceroy’s Palace is one of the noblest Structures in the World: The Beauty of the Architecture and the Disposition of the Apartments give the same Pleasure to the Spectator, as the magnificent Prospect the Viceroy has from a Balcony that ranges before the Windows, to which I never saw any thing equal for its Extent, or its agreeable Variety. The fine Gardens, the Harbour, the Arsenal, the lofty Hills, the terrible MountVesuvius, in short, the whole City ofNaples, all,Madame, contribute to the Prospect from the Viceroy’s Palace. The Person who then enjoy’d that Dignity was the CardinalSchrotenbach, not much belov’d by theNeapolitans, who shew’d a very public Concern for the Loss of the Countde Gallashis Predecessor. I question whether the Hatred they bore to this new Viceroy was well grounded, for several People own’d to me ingenuously, that he did every thing in his Power to make them happy. His Court perhaps, which was too melancholy, and not much frequented, did not please theNeapolitans, who love Grandeur. Besides, the Cardinal seldom appeared in public, whereas these People love to see their Viceroy often, and are fond to see him in Procession, with all the Pomp befitting a Nobleman, vested with a Dignity which they look upon as superior to any other whatsoever; for it must be observ’d, that aNeapolitanthinks nothing comparable to the Vice-royalty ofNaples. And to shew what a grandIdea they have of this Dignity, they tell a Story, That aNeapolitanLady, at an Audience she had of the King ofSpain, wish’d, in order to complete his Happiness, that it would please God to make him one Day Viceroy ofNaples.
I found in this City the PrinceT——, whom I knew atVienna. This Nobleman offer’d to introduce me to several Assemblies, with which he assur’d me I should not be displeas’d. I was glad to accept of his Offer, upon his Assurance that they consisted of quite other Sort of People than the Assemblies atRome. I there made an Acquaintance with severalNeapolitanGentlemen, who were as civil to me as could be, and were so complaisant, as to carry me to those Parts of the City which were most remarkable. I was charm’d with the noble Walk, form’d by theCours, along by the Sea-side, where I met with a great Number of Coaches, which seem’d to me to have more of theFrenchAir than those ofRome, bating only, that they were all drawn by Mules, or very sorry Horses. After I had taken a Walk, I was invited to make one of a Party at Supper, where I was promis’d good Chear and good Company; which I freely accepted, and had the Pleasure of seeing the Performance as good as the Promise. The Entertainment was most delicate, and very amiable Ladies were also of the Party: I should have had an intire Pleasure in conversing with them; but, for Want of understandingItalian, I could only talk by Signs, a Method of Conversation very troublesome for Persons that would have desir’d nothing better than to hold a Discourse. After Supper they propos’d a Match at Pharao; the PrinceT——offer’d to cut the Cards, and had such a Run of bad Luck, that in a little time I saw him loseconsiderable Sums. I won to my Share 260 Pistoles, which that Gentleman sent me next Day, together with a great Basket of green Peas, and good Store of Fruit.
While I stay’d atNaples, I could not help going to see the famous MountVesuvius, of which I had heard so much Talk; but when I found myself at the Top of this dreadful Mountain, I repented of my Labour, for I imagin’d I should have been requited for the Pains I took, by the Sight of something marvellous, when I came to the Top; but so far from it, that I saw nothing but Smoak issuing from several very great Cavities, which it would not have been prudent to approach; and indeed I had no manner of Temptation to it, so that I return’d but little wiser than I went: What I remark’d in particular was, that as I struck my Foot against the Ground, I heard a Noise, very much like the Sound of an empty Cask; and that’s all I am able to tell you of MountVesuvius. As to the Form of this Mountain, it would be in vain to describe it, because it changes its Shape every time it throws out Fire. I found it much more painful to descend the Mount than I did to ascend it, for the Abundance of bak’d Clods, calcin’d Stones, sulphurous Matter, and the Heaps of Ashes, made the Descent so difficult, that when I came to the Bottom, I found myself so fatigued, that I could scarce remount my Horse: I perceiv’d that the soft Boots I wore, were intirely burnt, undoubtedly by the Sulphur and Lime, of which the Mountain is intirely compos’d. I was then told, that it had not cast out any Flames for a long time, but that this would infallibly happen very soon, because new Holes were discover’d in it, and that the Earth, which visibly broke away,began to sink. I thought such a Mountain was a very bad Neighbour to so considerable a City asNaples; yet theNeapolitansdon’t seem to be much terrify’d at it. Indeed when the Flames actually break out, they are not the same Men; they then flock in Crouds to the Churches, every body falls to Prayer, and they make public Promises to change their Lives; but no sooner do they think all the Danger to be over, than they relapse into the same Degree of Debauchery as ever: In which they resemble those Wits, who, when they are in perfect Health, seem to set Death at Defiance; but when they feel its Approaches, discover such faint Hearts as give the Lye to their pretended Heroism.
Next Day I went to see the greatCarthusianChurch ofSt. Martin, which is most happily situated: The Church and Convent are Two stately Structures, which contain immense Wealth: The Treasury and Sacristy are full of noble Ornaments, Vessels of Gold and Silver, richly wrought and adorn’d for most part with precious Stones; and the Friars have very convenient Lodgings, every one having a Chamber, a Closet, a Library, and a little Garden to himself.
I went afterwards toPozzuoliorPuteoli, where I saw a Road, or rather a Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock, and partly in the Sand: ’Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc’d to grope out the Way in the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to giveNotice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger of running foul of one another.
After I had pass’d this Cavern, I found myself near that call’dla Grotte du Chien, or the Dog’s Grotto, which is but a narrow Cavern, and at most only Five Feet in Height, so that few People can stand upright in it. I there saw the Experiment usually made there: A Dog was laid flat with his Face to the Ground, which the very same Instant fell into Convulsions, and soon after shew’d no Sign at all of Life. Upon this he was thrown out of the Cavern as dead, when a Man took him, and put him into the Lake, which is but 25 or 30 Paces from the Cavern, and the Dog immediately recover’d his Spirits. After this Experiment was over, which I leave to be accounted for by wiser Heads than mine, I went toPuteoli, which in Truth has nothing of its ancient Splendor remaining. And I can’t imagine why Foreigners make it a Sort of Law to go to it; for there’s nothing now to be seen here, except old Ruins of no Signification.
The Impatience I had to see the famous City ofVenicedid not permit me to continue long atNaples, so that I stay’d there no longer than was necessary to receive an Answer to a Letter, which I wrote at my Arrival there, to the Countde S——, inSicily; wherein I pretended, that Affairs of the utmost Importance had prevented me from having the Honour of joining him as soon as I wish’d; but you must know, that this was all mere Compliment of mine, for several of my Friends had put me very much out of Conceit with going to serve inSicily. And the Letter, which the Countde S——return’d in Answer to mine, completed my Disgust; for he wrote ina Style that I did not like, and the Lectures he was pleas’d to give me, made me resolve not to expose myself to the Danger of receiving a second Letter: I wrote to him therefore, that he was welcome to dispose of my Commission, and that my Affairs did not permit me to enter into the Service so soon. From that time I determin’d to continue my Travels, and to try my Fortune at theSpanishCourt, to which I had for a long while been desirous of going; but you will soon perceive, that I was just as fortunate at that Court as I was at all the rest.
Having therefore no longer any Restraint upon me in my Travels, I chose to satisfy my Curiosity, and fromNaplesI set out forVenice. I made the best of my Way thro’ several little Towns ofSt. Peter’sPatrimony, in which there was nothing remarkable, besides sorry Victualling-houses, but stopp’d atLoretto, a little Town in the Marquisate ofAncona, the Suburbs whereof I thought very charming: The Town itself is very pretty, and advantagiously situate, being plac’d on a Hill, from whence is a noble Prospect of theAdriaticSea, or Gulph ofVenice. The Inhabitants ofLorettoare all very rich, yet all their Trade consists in Strings of Beads, Images of the Virgin, and other Things of that Sort; but then there’s such a vast Resort of Pilgrims thither at every Turn, that the Money they lay out for Lodging, and for the Purchase of Images and Beads, is sufficient alone to maintain the Inhabitants handsomly.
You know,Madame, that the Business of a Pilgrimage toLorettois to visit a Chapel, which was formerly the House where the Holy Virgin dwelt, when the Angel brought her the Tidings that she should be the Mother of the Saviour ofthe World: ’Tis surprizing at first Dash to find a House inItaly, which was formerly built in a Country so far off; but when one comes to be a little acquainted with History, the Astonishment presently subsides; for this House shifted its Place several times before it fix’d in the Marquisate ofAncona: It was first, they say, remov’d by Angels fromNazareth, which was really its original Country, intoDalmatia, where it stay’d Three Years. When that Term was expir’d, the said Angels remov’d it a second time, and carry’d it to the Territory ofRecanati, in the Marquisate ofAncona: But as every Day produc’d some Murder or Robbery in those Parts, the Angels, alarm’d at such a Neighbourhood, carry’d away the House a third time, and plac’d it some Distance from the Spot, where it stands now. But there it did not stay long; for a Couple of Friars, to whom the Ground belong’d on which the House was plac’d at that time, having a warm Contention which should be the Proprietor of it, the Angels soon put an End to the Dispute, by removing the Building the fourth and last time, and putting it where it now stands: To do Honour to this House, and perhaps also to fix it here, Care was taken to build a very magnificent Church, in the middle of which ’tis inclos’d. The Walls of this Church are lin’d with white Marble, wrought inBasso-Relievoby the ablest Workmen of that Time; containing the whole History of the Holy Virgin: There are also between double Columns of theCorinthianOrder Two Rows of Niches, one above the other, in the lowermost Row whereof are the Statues of the Prophets, and in the uppermost those of the Sybils; the whole being of admirable Workmanship. The House of the Virgin, whichis commonly call’dSanta Casa, seem’d to me to be built of Brick: ’Tis much longer than broad: ’Tis divided by an Altar into Two unequal Parts, in the least whereof is the miraculous Statue of the Virgin, which stands in a Nich, bearing the Infant Jesus in her Right Arm. The Mother and Child have each a Triple Crown of Gold, adorn’d with precious Stones. The whole Habit consists of a long Mantle of Gold Brocade, embroider’d with Pearls and Diamonds. The Sanctuary is lighted by several Lamps of solid Gold, of a prodigious Size, particularly one, not only remarkable for its Bigness, but for the Richness of the Workmanship, which was sent toLorettoby the Republic ofVenice, to fulfil a Vow of that Republic, during the time of a Plague, which made cruel Ravages in a great Part of the State ofVenice.
As to the Divine Service, it may be said to be perform’d atLoretto, to the utmost Degree of Exactness; nor is there any thing more edifying than to see with what Devotion Pilgrims from all Countries come to visit theSanta Casa. They enter it upon their Knees, and devoutly kiss the Walls of it, as well as the Chimney, in which they pretend, the Holy Virgin dress’d her Meat. They also apply their Beads and Images to a Porringer, which, they say, was the very same that serv’d for the Holy Virgin’s Soup-Dish.
As I went out of the Church, I was carry’d to a great Room, where I saw immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this Room I also saw the Virgin’s numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw any thing like it.After I had well view’d this costly Wardrobe, I went to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from the Church. I was shew’d the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very considerable.
When I had intirely satisfy’d my Curiosity atLoretto, I set out forBologna, and went by the very Gates ofAncona, which is a Sea-Port in the Pope’s Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din’d at Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac’d, and I could find no body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I thought very ancient.