From thence I went toPesaro, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the whole Duchy ofUrbinowere united to the Holy See during the Pontificate ofUrbanVIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was erected in Memory of that Event.
FromPesaroI went in a Day toRimini, an Episcopal City which stood formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time, the Sea being retir’d from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place thatCæsartook at the Beginning of the Civil War. The EmperorAugustusembellish’d it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here atthis Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble Bridge well preserv’d, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote it was built by the EmperorsAugustusandTiberius. All the way fromRiminitoBolognaI saw nothing remarkable.
[21]Bolognais an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical State: ’Tis commonly call’dBologna the Fat, because of its fruitful Soil. ’Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of having always atRomean Auditor pf theRota, and an Ambassador; which is punctually observ’d: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour ofGregoryXIII. which is look’d upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another ofBonifaceVIII. which is not a bad one.
As to the Manners of the Inhabitants ofBologna, I cannot but speak in Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part ofItaly; and, to say all that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle inItaly, ’tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.
After some Stay here, I set out forVenice, in a Boat call’dThe Messenger, which goes off fromBolognaevery Morning, or at least several times in a Week: ’Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman can be stow’d in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far, but, when we were still some Miles fromFerrara, we found the Water was too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc’d to go ashore, where we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach, almost like the Stage-Coaches ofFrance. The Outside of this Vehicle was so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides, the Coachman seem’d to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly, requir’d the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all ventur’d boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro’ the most difficult Places, and carry’d us safe toFerrara: But we had scarce enter’d that City, when our Charioteer, ’tis like to shew his Skill, made his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street; whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one of the Wheels behind passing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn’d so suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill’d on the Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell’d Face for Seven or Eight Days. MyValet de Chambre, who sat over-against me,had his Wrist put out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company, there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz’d me more than any thing was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish’d to have walk’d aboutFerrara[22], but my swell’d Face hinder’d me; and therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which carry’d me toVenice[23], where I arriv’d at Midnight.
I kept my Chamber for some Days, till I was recovered of my Fall, and then took a Tour about the several Parts of the City, sometimes in the Gondola, and at other times on Foot. The former Method of Travelling, tho’ very pleasant, is apt to frighten such as are not us’d to it, who often think themselves in danger of drowning, especially at the Turnings out of one Street into another; for then one would think the Boat was ready to be swallow’d up in the Canal; which indeed might very well be the Case with Boatmen of less Understanding than the Gondoliers ofVenice; but these are so dexterous that one never hears of any Misfortune.
The first Thing I went to see was the famous Church dedicated toSt. Mark, the Protector of the Republic. The Front is adorn’d with Five Portico’s, of which the middle one is bigger and more spacious than the others. On the Top of it there are Four Horses of Brass, said to have formerly belong’d to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv’d for an Ornament to the Triumphal Arch which the Senate ofRomecaus’d to be erectedfor the EmperorNero, after the Victory he gain’d over theParthians. The EmperorConstantinecaus’d them to be remov’d afterwards toConstantinople, but theVenetiansbrought them back again, after they had made themselves Masters of that City. Besides these Four Horses, the Front of the Church is adorn’d with other Statues. The Roof consists of several Domes, over which there are very fine Crosses. The Inside of the Church is truly magnificent: The Walls are lin’d throughout with Marble; the Pavement is also of Marble of perfectMosaicWorkmanship; and the Roof is lin’d in the same manner.
From thence I went to the Palace of the Doge, the Architecture of which I took to be very irregular. The Hall where the Nobles meet, is a prodigious large Room: The Doge’s Throne, which is plac’d at one End of it, is higher than the rest by some Steps: There the Nobles sit upon Benches fronting the Throne, which form Eleven Rows, or Walks, wide enough for a Person to pass easily between them: The Throne and the Seats of the Nobles are very plain: The Beauty of this Room consists intirely in Pictures that are worth seeing: There is one that represents the Taking ofConstantinopleby theVenetians; and on the other Side is the History of PopeAlexanderIII. and of the EmperorFrederic Barbarossa, with the Pictures of the several Doges.
There is a large Square call’dThe Broglio, before the Doge’s Palace, where the Nobles commonly take the Air; and tho’ there be no Covering to it, nor any Verdure, yet ’tis very pleasant because of the Neighbourhood of the Sea, the Prospect of which is boundless and mostdelightful. The Resort of Ships, Galleys, and Gondolas, continually coming in and out here, affords another Scene, which is the more amusing because of its Variety. Besides this, one has the Pleasure too of discovering several little Islands that are said to be inhabited by none but Fryars, who have magnificent Churches and Convents there. At that End of this Square, next to the great Canal, there are Two fine Pillars of Marble; on one of which are the Arms of the Republic,viz.a Winged Lyon; and on the second is the Statue ofSt. Theodore, the ancient Patron of the Republic.
I had not the Honour of seeing the Doge, and therefore shall say nothing of him, only that he seems to me but an imaginary Prince, and in Effect no more than the First Slave of the Republic. All the Lustre he has, is to be at the Head of the Senate and the Nobles in all the Assemblies and Ceremonies; for the rest, his Credit, if he may be said to have any, is extremely bounded. The Ceremony in which he appears with all his Splendor, is that which is perform’d every Year atVenice, upon Ascention-Day: Then the Doge, at the Head of the Senate and all the Nobility, goes on board a stately Vessel call’d theBucentaure; and when he is advanc’d a little way into the Gulph, he throws a Gold Ring into the Sea, and says,We marry thee, O Sea, in Token of that True and Perpetual Dominion which the Republic has over Thee. And indeed, theVenetianslook upon theAdriatic Seaas their peculiar Property.
TheVenetianNobles are as scrupulous in Matters of State, as the modernRomansare in those of Ceremony; insomuch that they break off all Correspondence with any Man that keeps Companywith an Ambassador; of which I myself had Experience. As I had knownM. de Q——at the King ofEngland’s Court atHanover, andM. G——at the Court ofVienna, I thought that when I saw them return’d toVenice, I could not do better than to pay them a Visit, in order to be introduc’d into good Families. I went to them accordingly, and was receiv’d with all possible Civility by those Gentlemen, who next Day return’d my Visit, when I observ’d in the Course of the Conversation, which was not very long, that Notice had been taken of my being so often at the House of the Imperial Ambassador; and I, for my own Part, gave them to understand, that I was not dispos’d to make a Sacrifice of the Ambassador’s Family in Compliment to them. The Person who then resided there with that Character was the Countde Colloredo, at whose House there was an Assembly every Night of all the Foreigners of most Distinction atVenice. He had with him the Countess ofColloredo, whom, no doubt, you have seen at the House of her BrotherM. de Blaspiel, when she was the Widow of the Countde Collonitz. The Ambassador and his Lady were perfectly complaisant to all Persons that came to their House, and there was every Day very good Company. I made an Aquaintance there with the Marchionessde R——, Daughter of the celebratedMadame de M——. This Lady had left the Court ofFranceand her Family, and, after having travell’d thro’ several Countries, came and settled atVenice. I confess I was heartily concern’d to see a Lady, who must have been very amiable in her Time, reduc’d, by a natural Uneasiness of her Temper, which perhaps too was Hereditary, to lead so strolling a Life.
While I stay’d atVenice, the Hereditary Prince ofModenacame and spent a few Days there. TheVenetiansmade several Entertainments for him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing theVenetianLadies in all their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them; for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within Doors, so that ’tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince ofModenastay’d atVenice, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz’d at the magnificent Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always in the Dress of theItalians. They were very constant at the Balls which were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas’d to see how fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain’d him with a Diversion call’d theRegatte, which is a Contention of small Vessels to out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish’d from one another by little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn’d with very fine Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress’d after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince ofModenaseem’d to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few Days after it, he set out fromVenice. I thought also of proceeding in my Travels thro’Italy, and went toPaduawith the same Gondoliers that had serv’d me while I stay’d atVenice.
[24]Paduais an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more ancient, they say, thanRomeandVenice. ’Tis thought to have been founded byAntenortheTrojanPrince, whose Tomb is still to be seen there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb,Bologne la Grasse, mais Padoue la passe, i. e.BolognetheFat, butPaduatheFatter. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but I thought the Churches ofSt. AnthonyandSt. Justinareally magnificent.
The first, where lies the Body ofSt. Anthony, is fac’d withBasso-Relievo’sof white Marble, representing the principal Miracles wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn’d, and illuminated with Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day.
St. Justina’s Church, tho’ far inferior toSt. Anthony’s in point of Magnificence, is one of the finest in allItaly. The High Altar is, in all respects, a finish’d Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn’d withBasso-Relievo’s, representing the Prophecies contain’d in the Old Testament relating toJesus Christ; and the fulfillingof them in the New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the largest inEurope, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to support it; but the Fault of it is ’tis pretty dark, though I know not what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such that it might be procur’d for a very small Charge.
FromPaduaI went toModena, by the Way ofFerraraandBologna. The Soil ofPaduabeing very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach toFerrara, where I took Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get toBologna. The very Day that I arriv’d at the latter, I set out forModena, to which is a very plain Road thro’ a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted at every Turn with a pleasing Variety.
Modenais the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in whichMark Anthonybesieg’dBrutus, after the Murder ofCæsar. The Dukes ofModenaare of the Family ofEst, and depend on the Empire. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv’d me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for the EmpressLeonora, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv’d me standing: As soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc’d me to put on mine, talk’dkindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well satisfy’d with my Audience.
As I had no Design to stay long atModena, I did but glance over the several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller’s Regard. The Streets ofModenaare narrow, nasty, and ill-pav’d, the Street of theCoursebeing the only one that is tolerable. The Duke’s Palace will be grand and magnificent when finish’d; as much as I saw of it carry’d up, being sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke’s Apartments are spacious and richly furnish’d: There was one of them fitting up forMadamoiselle de Valois, the Daughter of the Duke ofOrleansthe Regent, now the Princess ofModena, who they expected would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be. This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life they live at the Court ofModena, to which none can compare for Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it from so gay a Court as that ofFrance. In short, the Life of the Court ofModenais the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Mass, and dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are in Bed. This,Madame, is the common Custom at the Court ofModena; at least they liv’d thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repetitionof the same thing over again in Life, which is by no means suitable to a Sovereign Court.
FromModenaI went toReggio, a City and Bishoprick betweenParmaandModena. This Town is noted for its Fairs, which are said to have some Resemblance with ours atFrancfortandLeipsic. I have been told, that during these Fairs there’s always a noble Opera perform’d in this Town.
FromReggioI struck into the Road toParma, an Episcopal City, and Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. The Cathedral is a magnificent Pile, and the Dome is adorn’d with Paintings, which are much admir’d by the best Judges. As to the rest of the City, it appear’d to me to be large and very well built. Its Inhabitants are polite, generous and ingenious, and there’s a good Number of Nobility here, but they live so much after theItalianmanner, that ’tis not an easy Matter to get acquainted with them.
The Court ofParmais but little, if any thing, gayer than that ofModena: I was perfectly well receiv’d by the then Duke,viz.Francis Farnese, who, by a Dispensation, of which there are few Examples in the Catholic Church, had marry’d his Brother’s Widow. This Princess is call’dDorothyofNeubourg: She is Sister of the Elector Palatine, and had by her first HusbandElizabeth Farnese, the present Queen ofSpain: She having no Issue by her second, the Duchy ofParma, by the Death of DukeFrancisFeb. 22, 1727, devolv’d to his BrotherAnthony Farnese, who marry’dHenriettaPrincess ofModena. As there is Reason to believe that this Marriage too willprove sterile, the famousFarneseFamily, which owes its Advancement toPaulIII. will be extinct in thisAnthony. The said Pope, a little after his Exaltation to the Pontificate, gave the Investiture of the Dominions ofParmaandPlacentiatoLewis Farnesehis Bastard, who marry’d a Bastard Daughter of the EmperorCharlesV. yet this double Bastardy has not been a Bar to the matching of this with the chief Families inEurope.
I stay’d Three Days atParma, and then proceeded on my Journey; I pass’d thro’PiacenzaorPlacentia, so call’d from its pleasant Situation; Nature having not form’d a finer Country any where than that betwixt this City andParma: Here is a very fine Castle, and a noble Square, in which is the Court of Justice. The Houses are very well built, but not lofty, tho’ indeed it would not signify any thing if they were higher, it being so thinly inhabited, that it looks like a Desert; for sometimes one shall walk a long while in this City, and not meet a Soul.
I stay’d but a Day atPiacensa, and went directly toMilan, the capital City of one of the finest Duchies in the World: ’Tis one of the most beautiful Cities in allItaly, and the most magnificent in Buildings, both sacred and profane. The Metropolitan Church is, next toSt. Peter’s atRome, one of the finest Pieces of Work that can be imagin’d: ’Tis all white Marble within and without, and there’s a great Number of Statues of the same. The Roof is supported by 160 Columns of white Marble, which are each valued at 10,000 Crowns. The Tower at the Top of it is also worth visiting, its Situationbeing so advantagious, that one sees several Cities from it, and a good Part ofLombardy.
There are several other noble Churches, of which I don’t propose to give you a Description, nor of many other elegant Structures, that are likewise richly furnish’d; for theMilaneseGentry love Magnificence: Their Apartments have a certain grand and noble Air, which theItaliansfor most part rarely affect. The People of Quality here are very sociable: There’s an Assembly every Night at one House or other by Turns, and in all Places there’s great Freedom. Every one has his favourite Amusement; some chat, others play. They commonly sup together, after the Gaming is over, and sometimes they have a sort of Ball. You perceive,Madame, by what I have already said ofMilan, that ’tis a very agreeable Place to live in: I forgot to mention one distinguishing Quality of theMilanese, which is, that they are not at all jealous, a Fault that seems so predominant in the Temper of theItalians, that I cannot imagine how they escape it.
You must know, that never was City subject to more Revolutions thanMilan: It has been besieg’d 40 times, and 22 times taken, but was never worse treated than it was by the EmperorFredericI. surnam’dBarbarossa. This Prince, after he had taken it, caus’d it to be demolish’d, and sow’d it with Salt; only a few Churches were spar’d. The Duchy ofMilan, which, by its Situation, lies convenient for many Sovereigns, has always prov’d a Source of Wars forItaly: You have read no doubt in several Histories, what Misfortunes this Duchy has entail’d upon the neighbouring Provinces, especially during the Reigns ofCharlesV. andFrancisI. King ofFrance. The latter having demanded theMilanesefor his second Son the Duke ofOrleans, the Emperor promis’d to give him the Investiture of it, but he was so little a Slave to his Word, that he gave himself no Trouble to discharge his Promise, which bred an implacable Hatred between those Two Monarchs: It was indeed suspended more than once, but ’twas always to gain a Breathing-time, for they hated each other as long as they liv’d.
After I had stay’d awhile atMilan, I set out for the Court ofSavoy. The first City I stopped at wasCasal, formerly one of the strongest and most important Fortresses inItaly: The Citadel especially was by all good Judges look’d upon as one of the Wonders of the World.LewisXIV. who had Possession of it for a long time, caus’d such fortifications to be made there, as are hardly to be match’d. That Monarch observing the Bigness of the Buildings, caus’d an Intrenchment and a second Rampart to be made, which form’d a new Bastion in the Centre of the first; but now there remain only some Vestigies of those fine Works; the Fortifications both of the City and Citadel having been demolish’d in 1695, according to a Capitulation made between theGermansand theFrench, when the former made themselves Masters of the Place.
Casalbelong’d heretofore to the Dukes ofMantua, but now, by the Emperor’s Grant thereof, it belongs to the King ofSardinia.
I went in one Day fromCasalto[25]Turin, the capital City ofPiedmont, the See of an Archbishop,and the chief Seat of the Duke ofSavoy. ’Tis not very large, but is in the main a very pretty Town, the Streets being broad and strait, the Houses generally uniform, and intermingled with noble Edifices: Here is also a Citadel, one of the strongest that can be imagin’d, every Part of it being countermin’d. There is a Well of a very singular Construction, which, tho’ very deep, is so contrived, that several Horses may go down and up again, without meeting one another: This is perform’d by means of a double Stair-case without Steps, which winds so many times, that it makes the Descent easy.
The Entrance intoTurinthro’ the new Gate gives one a grand Idea of the City: We come first into a great and very long Street, the Houses of which are all of the same Architecture: About the middle of it is the Square ofSt. Charles, which is encompass’d with Houses perfectly uniform, which would make a much more grand Appearance, if the Piazza’s, that run round it, were but higher. After one has pass’d the Square ofSt. Charles, the same new Street brings us to a second Square, that fronts the King’s Palace, on the Right Hand of which stands the Palace where liv’dMadame Royale, the King’s Mother: These Two Palaces have a Communication with each other by a Gallery.
There is nothing magnificent in the Outside of the King’s Palace, but then the Apartments are of an elegant Taste, and richly furnish’d, and here’s a great Number of Paintings, which good Judges reckon excellent Pieces. The Apartment of the King and Queen takes up the first Story, and forms a double Apartment, with a Guard-Room before it. The finest Part of the Palace is the famous Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief;tho’ this Chapel be a Part of the Cathedral, I make no Scruple to call it the Chapel of the Palace, because the King always hears Mass there. I thought it a very gloomy Place, undoubtedly because ’tis lin’d with black Marble of a greenish Cast; and besides, there was no Brass nor Gilding to enliven all this Black. I ask’d, what could be the Reason, why they chose black Marble preferably to any other; and was told, that ’twas in Remembrance of the Death of our Saviour Jesus Christ, whose Holy Handkerchief is preserv’d over the Altar: This Altar is so made, that Two Priests may say Mass at it together, without seeing or interrupting one another.
On one Side of the King’s Palace stands, as I had the Honour to tell you, the Palace ofMadame Royalethe King’s Mother. This Building was very inconsiderable heretofore, the Apartments being very plain, and the only Stair-case leading to it extremely incommodious: ButMadame Royale, who did not value Money, caus’d great Alterations to be made in it: Among other Embellishments she built one intire Front, for the Sake of having one of the finest Stair-cases to it in the World; for which Reason they say now,That here’s a Stair-case without a Palace, as they said before,That ’twas a Palace without a Stair-case. Indeed the rest of the Building is by no means answerable to the Magnificence of the Front and the Stair-case; yet, as mean an Appearance as it makes without, the Apartments within are magnificent; for look which way soever, one sees nothing but Marble, noble Gilding, Paintings by the greatest Masters, Pier-Glasses of a wonderful Size and Beauty, and other very rich Furniture. This Palace had only one Garden to it, which was encompass’d on theThree Sides by Streets and very fine Squares: The Back-Part look’d towards that call’d the Street of thePo, which is one of the finest inTurin.
The Royal Family consisted first and foremost of KingVictor Amadeus, who marry’d a Granddaughter ofFrance, nam’dAnna-MariaofOrleans, Daughter ofPhilipDuke ofOrleans, Brother toLewisXIV. and toHenriettaofEngland, by whom he has had Two Princes and Two Princesses: The first of the Princes wasPhilip-Joseph, who dy’d the 22d ofMarch, 1715, at 15 Years of Age: The second, who is the present King by the Resignation of the King his Father, isCharles-Emanuel, who marry’d firstAnne-ChristinaofSultzbach, and his second Wife wasPolyxenaofHesse Rhinfels.
The Two Princesses wereMary-AdelaideofSavoy, (marry’d to the Duke ofBurgundy, Dauphin ofFrance, Father ofLewisXV.) who dy’d the 12th ofFebruary, 1712: AndMary-LouisaofSavoy, (the first Wife ofPhilipV. the present King ofSpain) who dy’d the 14th ofFebruary, 1714.
The Queen was still living while I was atTurin: She was one of the most courteous Princesses in the World, lov’d dearly to converse with her Courtiers, and was perfectly civil to Foreigners that had the Honour to be introduc’d to her: She dy’d the 26th ofAugust, 1728.
Madame Royalethe King’s Mother was very ancient; yet ’twas easy to discover, that she had once her Share of Beauty, and she had still a fine Shape and a majestic Air, in Spite of her great Age.
The first Prince of the Blood of theSavoyFamily isVictor Amedeus, the Prince ofCarignan:This Prince happen’d not to be atTurinwhen I was there, his Affairs having requir’d his Presence for some time inFrance: I had the Honour of paying my Compliments to the Princess his Consort, who, you know, is the King’s Daughter, by the Countess ofVerrue. Before her Marriage she went by the Title ofMadamoseille de Suza: This Princess is indeed not very tall, but she is a perfect Beauty, the Features of her Face, which are regular, being improv’d moreover by a fair clear Complexion. All these external Perfections are supported likewise by the best Sense and a generous Soul: She is so good-natur’d, so civil, and has such a happy manner of expressing herself, as wins the Hearts at the same time as it procures the Respect of those that hear her: She has a Vivacity of Temper, which charms, and a Generosity, which is not confin’d to Words only; and she is never better pleas’d, than when she has an Opportunity of doing Service: This,Madame, is not a feign’d Character, for I say no more than what I was Eye-Witness of myself, and what the whole City ofTurinsaid of this Princess: And I saw with what Regret they parted with her, when she set out to see her Husband atParis, which she did while I was atTurin.
I was a constant Attendant at Court to pay my Duty to the King and all the Royal Family: The Time that one had the Honour of speaking to his Majesty was commonly when he went from Mass, for it was very rare to see him the rest of the Day. After this the Company us’d to go to the Prince ofPiedmont’s Apartment, which was over the King’s; but one had not the Pleasure of waiting on that Prince so often or so long as it were to be wish’d, because he was then very muchtaken up with his Studies: The best time to see him was in the Evening, when he came to the Queen’s Drawing-Room, which was open’d about 6 or 7 o’Clock: Then the Ladies came in their Court Dress, and were admitted into the Queen’s Chamber, where a Chair of State was plac’d between Two Rows of Stools: The Queen came out of her Closet with the Princesses, and as soon as she was in Reach of her Chair, she made a Curtesy to the Right and Left, and then sate down: The Princesses also seated themselves in Folding Chairs; but the Ladies stood behind the Princesses, and the Gentlemen behind the Ladies: The Queen, after a Conversation with the Princesses and the Ladies, arose, paid her Compliments again to the Right and Left, and then retir’d; tho’ sometimes she stopp’d in the same Chamber, to talk to such Ladies or Gentlemen as she had a Mind to distinguish.
From the Queen’s Drawing-Room the Company went to the Apartment ofMadame Royale. This Princess had a Drawing-Room in the same manner as the Queen, only with this Difference, that the Prince ofPiedmontwas not there, and that after it was over, her Royal Highness permitted those Persons that she had a Mind to honour, to follow her into her Bedchamber, where she talk’d a long time with them, being supported all the while by one of her Equerries.
After her Drawing-Room was over, there was no other Person of the Royal Family to be seen more for that Night, and then the Nobility us’d to repair to the Princess ofVilla-Franca’s Assembly, where there was Variety of Gaming: There were always several Tables for Ombre, Pharo, Lansquenet,&c.and I play’d there with Fortune very much on my Side, as I had done ever sinceI had been inItaly, where Gaming, in short, had defray’d all my Expences; insomuch that when I got to the other Side of the Mountains, I found that I was still a Gainer by about 200 Pistoles.
I found a great many Foreigners in the Service of the King ofSardinia: The Commander of his Forces wasM. de Rhebinder, aSwede, who gave Foreigners a complete Reception, and his House was one of the best inTurin.M. de Schulembourg, whose Family you know perfectly well, was a Lieutenant-General: This Nobleman being aLutheran, had obtain’d Leave to have a Chaplain of his own Religion. I shall not mention the other foreign Officers to you, because I had no particular Acquaintance with them.
Before I leaveTurin, I fancy you will not be displeas’d with some Account of the King’s Houshold, which tho’ not numerous, is very magnificent. His Majesty has Three Companies of Life-Guards, which are distinguish’d by the Names ofSardinia,Savoy, andPiedmont, and are very well cloath’d. The King has a considerable Number of Pages, who are brought up much more carefully than at ourGermanCourts, where one very often forgets that the Pages are Gentlemen. Their Livery is Scarlet, with a blue and white Velvet Lace.
The Prince ofPiedmontwas serv’d by the King’s Officers.
The Queen had her separate Houshold. She had a Lady of Honour, a Tire-Woman, and Six Maids of Honour, who were to be cashier’d, and they talk’d of appointing Six Ladies of the Bedchamber, that were marry’d, to attend the Queen’s Person in their room.
Madame Royalehad also her Houshold and her Guards. As she was naturally fond of Splendor, all her Court made a very gay Appearance. She had likewise in her Service the same Number of Ladies and Maids of Honour as the Queen had.
There happen’d an Adventure at the Court of her Royal Highness which made a very great Noise. Among this Princess’s Maids of Honour, who were all very amiable, there was one that so far excell’d the rest, that her Beauty engag’d her a great many Admirers from all Parts. Among others that enter’d the Lists, was a youngPiedmontese, whom I knew full well. He was a very handsome lively Man, but a mere Rattle; so that after having set all Engines at work to carry his Point, and sigh’d a long time, he found himself just as far advanc’d as the first Day that he began. However, this young Lover was not dishearten’d, but continu’d his Addresses with a Constancy which really deserv’d some Regard; but whether ’twas owing to Virtue, or perhaps to the Fear of disgusting some favourite Lover, the Damsel remain’d inflexible. ThePiedmontesebeing thus rebuff’d, thought he was bound in Honour not to survive such Treatment; but in so critical an Affair he resolv’d to do nothing rashly. He believ’d that when the cruel Fair One saw the Despair into which she had cast him, and the dreadful Extreme to which he was reduc’d, it might engage her to treat him with less Severity; but it happen’d quite otherwise, insomuch that the silly young Fellow having declar’d in plain Terms that he would kill himself if he was to suffer Martyrdom any longer, the Damsel answer’d him very indifferently,Kill yourself if you will,what’s that to me?This Expression, indeed, made the youngPiedmontesenot so desirous to be his own Executioner as he pretended; but nevertheless he was resolv’d to frighten his Mistress, and leaving her very abruptly, he went and fill’d a Bladder with Blood, and putting it very artfully under his Shirt, he return’d to the Damsel, and threaten’d even to destroy himself in her Presence, if she persisted in her Refusal of his Addresses. The Answer he received being much of the same kind with the former, he cry’d out in a Passion,What, will you have my Life, Mademoiselle? Well then, so be it: At the same Instant he drew his Sword, and having prick’d the Bladder, he fell down as if he was a dead Man; Upon this the Damsel gave a dreadful Shriek, and Help came immediately. The great Effusion of Blood was terrifying at the first Sight; but when the young Spark was set upon his Legs, ’twas quickly perceiv’d by his Countenance, that the Sacrifice he had made did not cost him very dear. The worse Luck for him, it happen’d thatMadame Royalewas inform’d of it that very Instant; for the Tragi-Comedy being presently divulg’d in her Antichamber, that Princess, in order to teach the Puppy not to fail hereafter in the Respect due to Princes, caus’d him to be committed to a Castle not far fromTurin, where he was for about Two Years a Prisoner.
FromTurinI went the same Day to the Foot of MountCenis. I saw nothing remarkable all the Way, except the Town ofSusa, in which were formerly kept the Titles and Charters of the House ofSavoy; but the EmperorFredericI. set Fire to it, and burnt them all.
At a little Distance fromSusais a Fortress call’dLa Brunette, which is worth the Traveller’s Notice: It commands the Passage of theAlps, which hereafter will for that reason be more difficult for theFrenchto pass than formerly. Next Day after my Arrival at the Foot of MountCenis, I prepared to pass that terrible Mountain: For this Purpose I dismounted my Chaise, and put it with my Trunks upon the Backs of Mules; after which I plac’d myself in a sort of Arm-Chair; and Two Men, who were reliev’d every now-and-then by Two others, carry’d me over it in Five Hours time. When I was on the Top of it I stopp’d, in hopes of discovering a great Tract of Country; but saw nothing, except a great Lake, and fine rich Meadows. On the Top of this Mountain there was a House of Entertainment, where the Mule-Drivers and Chair-Men always refresh themselves. This surely is the dismalest Place in the World, it being situate in the middle of a frightful Desert, which is always, or at least Nine Months in the Year, cover’d with Snow. One thing remarkable is, that no Robbery is committed in this wild Place, tho’ the People upon the Skirts of it are not to be trusted.
After I had been over MountCenis, I went toLanebourg, the first Village inSavoy, where Travellers get again into their Chaises. As soon as my Equipage was remounted, I traveled to[26]Chambery, the Capital ofSavoy. This is a City situate between Two Mountains, upon the RiversLaiseandAlbans. ’Tis the Residence of a Parliament, consisting of Fifteen Senatorsand Four Presidents, which is oblig’d for its Institution toAmedeusVIII. Duke ofSavoy.
FromChamberyI went toGeneva, a little Republic, which is an Ally of theSwissCantons. The City stands upon a Lake, of which it claims the Sovereignty, as the Republic ofVenicedoes that of theAdriaticSea. This Lake contributes very much to the Embellishment ofGeneva, which is built upon a Hill, in Form of an Amphitheatre; so that on one Side it looks over the Lake, on the Banks of which are Vineyards and very pretty Country-Houses; and on the other Side is a Prospect of a noble Plain, Gardens, very fine Pastures, and a curious Walk form’d by a very long Mall: On each Side are the Mountains ofSavoy, the Tops of which being cover’d with Snow, form a very agreeable View.
’Tis true, that as to theGenevese, the Situation of their City would be much more advantageous, if their Prospect was not so confin’d; or, at least, if they had nothing to fear from that which forms so charming a Point of View: For which way soever these Republicans turn their Eyes, they easily see the Limits of their Dominions; and this little Republic only subsists by the Jealousy of the Sovereigns their Neighbours, who will not suffer any one of themselves to make a Conquest of it. Mean time these People make a Parade of their Forces, and have been at considerable Expence in fortifying the Place, tho’ for what Reason I cannot imagine; since if any one of the neighbouring Powers came to attackGeneva, and the City was not supported by the others, it would be oblig’d to surrender, whether fortify’d or not. I should have thoughtit better to have employ’d the Money expended on their new Fortifications, in embellishing their City, and to have contented themselves with the old Fortifications, which were more than sufficient to have given them Time for receiving Succours in case of an Attack.
I went to see the Arsenal, which appear’d to me to be well furnish’d, and they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it should be.
TheGenevesehave the Reputation of being rich, and not without Foundation; for they drive a considerable Trade, and every body there is either a Merchant or a Manufacturer. Yet they affect a great deal of Plainness, both in their Buildings and their Furniture. Their Houses are not lofty, nor the Apartments very large; and both their Houshold-stuff and Cloaths are very modest; there being a Decree of the Senate, which forbids them to make use of Gilding in their Furniture or Apparel, for fear, ’tis like, that Luxury, which formerly prov’d the Ruin of theRomanRepublic, should be equally destructive to their petty State.
The Senate ofGenevacommonly assembles in their Town-House, opposite to which is a Guard-Room, where the Soldiers present their Arms, as the Senators go in or out of the Assembly, or when they walk in Ceremony: Upon these Occasions the Senate and the Ministers form Two Rows, the former on the Right Hand, and the latter on the Left.
The Town-House has nothing very remarkable, every thing being very plain. In the great Hall I observ’d the Figures of QueenAnneofEngland,FredericI. King ofPrussia,Frederic Williamthe Great Elector ofBrandenbourg, and the Landgrave ofHesse-Cassel; which are all so many Proofs of those Princes Communion with theGenevese. You know that they are all of theCalvinistReligion, and very careful not to suffer any other Sect to herd with them. TheLutheranshave a little Chamber there, which serves for their Church, they being expresly forbid to build one. As for theRoman Catholics, they are look’d upon atGenevato be all Idolaters; insomuch that the late King ofFrancehad much ado to get Leave for Mass to be said at his Resident’s House: TheGeneveseMinisters at the Time thatLewisXIV. caus’d this Demand to be made of the Republic, employ’d all their Engines to hinder its being granted; but all their Measures were in vain: and they were given to understand, that it would be imprudent to disoblige so great a Prince.
The Reverend Gentlemen their Ministers make so considerable a Figure in the State, that I must just mention them. They are reverenc’d as so many Bishops; every one of them in his respective Pulpit issues his Mandate, and decides Matters of Faith in the Dernier Resort: But tho’ they are all of the same Religion, they are some times very different from one another in Opinion. Nevertheless, be they ever so divided one among another, they join hand in hand when they have a Mind to inveigh against the Pope, the Court ofRome, the Bishops, and especially the Jesuits; for they can’t endure the latter: And ’tis rare for a Minister to be so muchMaster of his Temper, as to keep strictly to his Text, without rambling from it to lash those Fryars.
As to the Gentlemen of the Government, it must be confess’d they are very charitable. They have caus’d a magnificent Hospital to be built, on which they have settled great Revenues, and where the Poor are very well maintain’d. Here poor Passengers are admitted for one Day, and, after having been entertain’d with Lodging and Food, are dismiss’d the next Day, with some Money in their Pockets to proceed in their journey. This same Hospital serves also for a House of Correction for loose young Fellows and Women, over whom the Police atGenevacarries a very strict Hand. I wish I could say as much of the Trading Part of this City, who it may be are very civil People; but the Dispute I had with one of the most eminent of them, makes me very much suspect their Honesty; and this was what gave me an Opportunity to know a little of the Character of the Tradesmen ofGeneva. ’Tis true, that I had nothing to do but with one of them; but as I was recommended to him alone, as a Man of the greatest Integrity inGeneva, I think I do not judge rashly of all the rest, by laying no more Dishonesty to their Charge than what I met with in this so much applauded Banker.
When I was preparing to quitGeneva, I had about the Value of 400 Pistoles, Part old Species and PartSpanishPistoles; but I heard at the same time, that such Pieces were prohibited to pass inFrance, and therefore I was advis’d to get rid of them, and to take Bills of Exchange for them uponLyons. I made no Hesitation to comply with this Advice, and went to find outthe Man that was recommended to me for the honestest Banker in allGeneva. As Bills began at that time to sink very much in Credit, I bargain’d with him, that I should not be put off atLyons, upon any Pretence whatever, with any thing less than ready Money. As all this was only verbal, the Banker made me the most solemn Promise, and back’d it with an Oath, that it should be as I would have it. Relying on Promises, which were in Appearance so authentic, I told down my Money, and when he took it, he added, That if the Banker atLyonsshould happen to refuse me Specie, I need only send him back his Bill of Exchange, and I might depend on being paid in ready Money. Not doubting of this honest Man’s Sincerity, I set out fromGenevawith his Bill of Exchange, and a small matter of Money that I had reserv’d, just to bear my Expences on the Road. As soon as I came toLyons, I went to the Banker to whom theGenevesedirected me, and presented my Bill of Exchange, for which I saw he was going to give me Paper; but I immediately refus’d to be paid in that sort of Coin, and told him the Agreement I had made atGeneva. He said to me, that he was not oblig’d to stand to an Agreement which he was no ways privy to, and advis’d me to send back my Bill toGeneva. I took his Advice, and wrote to my Banker, that what we had agreed upon would not be comply’d with; but he was so tedious in returning me an Answer, that I thought once I should have had neither Money nor Bills, and that by consequence my Case would have been very melancholy, the little Sum I had reserv’d for my Journey toLyonsbeing soon spent. However, at Three Weeks End theGeneveseBanker sentback my Bill of Exchange, and stiffly deny’d that he had made any other Bargain with me, than that I should be paid in the Current Money, which was Bills. I plainly perceiv’d that there was no Remedy but Submission, therefore I took the Bills and set out Post fromLyonsforParis.
I found great Alterations in this City since I was here last. The Peace withSpainwas establish’d: Most of the Prisoners that had been concern’d in the Prince ofCellamare’s Affair, were then at Liberty: Some, indeed, that were the most guilty, or the most useless to the State, had been banish’d the Kingdom; and the greatest Part were retir’d toSpain, where I saw some of them in such a poor Plight, that they wish’d themselves again in theBastille, where they were at least well fed.
The Duke Regent, for his Part, after having thus pacify’d some Persons to whom his Authority gave Umbrage, had made Provision also for the Establishment of some of his Daughters. For the One he had provided the Abbey ofChelles, upon the Resignation ofMadame de Villars, who was the Abbess. The Second, who was call’dMadamoiselle de Valois, had been just marry’d to the Hereditary Prince ofModena, and set out with a Paraphernalia more grand than what is given to the Daughters ofFrance. The same Honours were paid to her upon the Road, as are commonly paid to the Daughters of the King; and that there might be Substance answerable to all this Splendor, the Duke ofModenahad bargain’d for a very considerable Portion, payable in the Species ofItaly, rather than be expos’d to all the Revolutions of theFrenchCoin; in which that Prince made awise Bargain, for every Day was remarkable for oneArretor other relating to the Species. Nevertheless, thoseArretsdid not look as if they would be long in Force; at least, the Thing which they had principally in View, absolutely came to nothing. There being therefore no Gold nor Silver of which they could lower the Value, it was thought expedient to touch the only Species left, I mean the Bank Bills, which in their Turn were subject to various Revolutions, that were of the worse Consequence to those wretched Effect; because, as they had no intrinsic Value, they might very easily relapse into their original Nothing. They say, that the Disaster which befel these Bills, was owing to Mr.Law’s Enemies, who envy’d the Credit which they saw this Foreigner had with the Regent; and of this nothing was a greater Demonstration than the Difficulty they had to succeed in their Undertaking. But at length they brought their Designs to bear; and after having remonstrated several times, but always to no Purpose, that the Bills did a considerable Injury to Trade; that several Merchants were oblig’d to shut up their Shops, because ’twas impossible to trade without Money; that private People, whose Substance lay intirely in Annuities, being paid off in Bills, could not subsist long, since Tradesmen would not accept of those Bills for more than the Value express’d upon them: In fine, the Regent being quite wearied out with the continual Solicitations of these Remonstrants, yielded to their Importunity, and consented to the suppressing of the Bills. But as it was very evident that it would be impossible to annul them all at once, it was resolv’d to do it by Degrees: Therefore, on the 21st ofMay, there came out anArret, whichlower’d the Bills from10 per Cent. per Month, to one half of their Value. ThisArretoccasion’d some Tumult; allPariswas ready to rise in Arms, and so great was the Throng of People one pay to the Bank, that several were stifled in the Crowd, whose Bodies were carry’d by the mutinous Mob to the Court of the Royal Palace. Mr.Law, to whom they ow’d a Grudge for having given the Hint of so pernicious a Project, did not dare to shew his Head. In short, the Ferment seem’d to work so strong, that the Regent plainly perceiv’d ’twas impossible, at that Juncture, to inforce theArretthat had been newly issued; and chose to have it revok’d, in hopes of regaining the Confidence of the Public. But it was intirely lost, every one deserted the Bank; and notwithstanding the Menaces given out, that the Species would be lower’d, People rather chose to keep their Money, which would be always worth something, than to incumber themselves with Bills, which, whenever the Prince took the Whim, would only be attended with the melancholy Reflection by the Possessors, that they were once well to pass. In Fact, notwithstanding the Revocation of theArret, the Bills sunk considerably every Day. Then it was that the Term ofRealisingbecame the favourite Word of the Time, that is to say, when the Generality of private Men, who had any Bills, endeavour’d to exchange them, not for Money, which at that Time seem’d to be bury’d again in the Earth, from whence its Original was dug, but for real Effects: Some bought Diamonds, others Plate, some Merchandize: In short, every wise Man got rid of his Paper; and even the Nobility turn’d Merchants: Particularly one of them, who was of the firstRank[27], had a considerable Warehouse stor’d with Coffee, Wax-Candles, Grocery-Wares, and the like Goods, to sell again. The Parliament took Cognisance of these Acquisitions, but his only Punishment was the Mortification he receiv’d from those Gentlemen; and he was left in Possession of the Grocery-Wares, Coffee,&c.
At this very critical Time, when the Bills were reduc’d, did I arrive atParis; which City was then like a Wood for harbouring Robbers and Murderers; and, in Fact, the Ease of carrying the Fortunes of a great many People in a Pocket-Book was a great Temptation to Thieves: Moreover, notwithstanding the Scarcity of Money, Luxury, Debauchery and Gaming were arriv’d at the highest Pitch, and young Deboshees were guilty of the most shocking Enormities to satisfy their Extravagance: To this Purpose I was told a Story, that about the End ofLent1721, the Countde Horn, a young Nobleman, related to the chief Families inEurope, was one of Three that basely murder’d a poor Wretch, who got his Livelihood by negociating Shares and Bills for other People: As this Man’s Letter-Case seem’d to be full of Effects, that must amount to a considerable Sum, the Count appointed him to come to a Tavern inSt. Martin’s Street, on Pretence of buying some Shares of him; when he came, he took him into a Back-Room, which he had bespoke for the Purpose; and just as he was opening his Letter-Case upon the Table, the Count and Two Comrades threw a Cloth over his Head, and then cruelly stabb’d him with Daggers: The unhappy Man made such a Noise while they were in the Act of murdering him, that it brought some body up Stairs,but they had taken Care to fasten the Chamber-Door in the Inside, so that ’twas impossible to enter it, and the Count and his Accomplices made their Escape out of a Window, that look’d into a little Street on one Side of the Tavern, from whence, tho’ they were in the second Story, they got down very easily, by the Favour of some Beams, which were laid across the Street to support the Two Houses: The Count’s Comrades thought of nothing less than flying their Country, but there was only one of them that was so fortunate as to get into foreign Parts, the other was apprehended about the Fish-Market, and carry’d before a Commissary. The Count, on his Part, instead of endeavouring to make his Escape, went and complain’d to a Commissary, of an Attempt that had been made to assassinate him: His wild Stare and his bloody Hand and Ruffles made the Commissary suspect there was something more than ordinary in this Complaint, and he desir’d that he would carry him to the Place where he said that he ran such a Risque of his Life; which he scrupling to do, the Commissary sent for the Archers to carry him thither by Force. The Count, before he set out, desir’d Leave to step aside, to ease himself from the Impression, which he pretended the Danger had made upon him; but, as it came out afterwards, it was only to drop the Letter-Case, of which he had robb’d the Stockjobber, into the Privy: This done, he set out with the Commissary, and the Truth of the Fact was soon discover’d; for the Vintner having caus’d the Room to be broke open, the Sight of the Corpse and the bloody Daggers were so many Evidences of the Count’s Guilt, who was thereupon committed Prisoner to theChatelet, try’d the following Week, and condemn’d,together with his Accomplice, to be broke alive upon the Wheel in the Placede Greve; which Sentence was executed accordingly on theTuesdayin the Holy Week. While he was yet a Prisoner, all the foreign Nobility atParislabour’d hard to obtain his Pardon, or at least that he might only be beheaded; to the end that the Infamy of his Punishment on the Wheel might not be cast as a Reproach upon his Family: But the Duke Regent made no other Answer, than that the Count was as near akin to him as he was to them, but that ’twas the Crime, and not the Punishment, that brought a Stain upon Families: The Countde Hornmade a truly Christian Exit; for the religious Principles, which he had once imbib’d from an Education suitable to his Birth, but which he had the Misfortune to stifle, reviv’d at this dreadful Crisis; and made him submit to dye with a Resignation which we seldom see in Persons that come to such a violent Death.
The Fall of the Bills was not the only Misfortune thatFrancelabour’d under; for it was visited at the same time by a Pestilence: I was one Day at the Duke Regent’s Levee, when he himself declar’d the melancholy News, that atMarseillesthere was a Plague: This at first struck a sensible Damp upon People, but ’twas quickly forgot, and they abandon’d themselves more than ever to Pleasures, Feasting, Gallantry,&c.Gaming indeed was not carry’d to that Height as usual, because it could not be done without ready Money, the Bills having no Credit then, except what was forc’d; but as to Trade, it decay’d every Day more and more; and the Merchants, who had so long stiffly refus’d the Bank Bills, were nevertheless soon oblig’d to accept them, being sensible, that if they rejected them any longer,they should be under a Necessity, either to make no more Sales, or to sell upon Credit; which was an Alternative equally destructive of Trade, which is only to be supported by the Circulation of Species, or at least by something equivalent.
Humanity, and the Concern I had for the Fate of my Friends, made me a Sharer in the public Calamities; but for the rest, I pass’d my Time well enough: I went to an Estate of a Friend of mine nearOrleans, where I spent about Six Weeks, and then return’d toParis, where I stay’d no longer than just to make due Preparation for my Tour toSpain: I travell’d by the way ofLyonsandLanguedoc, purely for the Pleasure of seeing several of my Friends, who had Estates in those Places, and fromLyonsI proceeded toVienneinDauphine: From thence I repass’d theRhosne, and travelling thro’ theVivarese, I went to an Estate nearNismes, that belong’d to a Friend of mine, with whom I stay’d a Month: AtNismesI went to take a View of the famous Amphitheatres, which are the precious Remains of theRomanAntiquities.