FromNismesI went toMontpelier, which in my Opinion is one of the most agreeable Cities in the World; and where, next toParis, there’s the most good Company: The Situation of it is charming, it being not far from the Sea, and encompass’d with very fertile Fields, that form a very charming Prospect. The Houses are not well built, but are all very neat within, and well furnish’d: The Streets are so narrow, that ’tis difficult to pass them with an Equipage, so that Gentlemen commonly make Use of Sedans: The Out-parts of the Town are very pleasant, especially towards the Sea. In this Part is a greatSquare, in Form of a Terrace, surrounded with Trees, in the middle of which is a magnificent Equestrian Statue ofLewisXIV. on a great Pedestal of white Marble: The Connoisseurs say, ’tis a complete Piece in all its Parts.
After having spent some Days atMontpelier, I proceeded towardsToulouse: I went first thro’Beziers, an Episcopal City, the Situation of which is so pleasant, that ’tis become a common Proverb,If God were to chuse his Residence upon Earth, he would certainly chuseBeziers. ’Tis even said, that the Inhabitants of the Country, the Gentry especially, have more Sense and Conduct than they have elsewhere: Yet, at different Courts, I have seen several Persons, Natives of this City, who were really so stupid, that the Notion I have of the Inhabitants ofBeziersis the very contrary of what they would fain make me believe.
FromBeziersI travell’d toCastelnaudari, in the Neighbourhood of which City was fought the Battle wherein the famous ConstableMontmorencywas taken in Arms against his King.LewisXIII. having, at the Solicitation of CardinalRichelieu, order’d his Head to be cut off, he receiv’d the Stroke of Death with a Constancy worthy of his Name, and of a better Cause.
From this City I went in a very little time to Toulouse, the Capital ofLanguedoc, and the Seat of a Parliament, which is the second in the Kingdom: The Cathedral, dedicated toSt. Stephen, is a magnificent Pile of Building, in a large Square, adorn’d with a fine Fountain, in which rises an Obelisk, that is a complete Piece ofWork: The Archbishop’s Palace, which joins to the Cathedral, is an entire new Building, wherein no Cost has been spar’d: As to the Houses ofToulouse, in common they are well enough built, but without any Ornament: The Streets are pretty broad, but very nasty; so that I inferr’d, the Civil Government here was not very strict: As to the People ofToulouse, I own to you,Madame, that I could like their Way of Living well enough: They have all a great Share of Wit, but the worst on’t is, they are conceited, which does them a Prejudice: But they are very civil, especially to Foreigners, whom they entertain perfectly well: I don’t think that I ever fed better, and liv’d more merrily than I did with these People, who are all of ’em good Jokers: The Accent of this Country too, especially of the Women, sets off whatever they say to such an Advantage, as seems to give a witty Turn to even the most common Thoughts: Little Songs or Ballads are, as it were, the Fruits of the Soil: Every one is a Sonneteer, and if their Verses are not equally good, yet they are all relish’d alike, they have such a happy way of setting them off.
To the Honour of theLanguedociansbe it spoken, there is not a Province inFrance, nor even inEurope, where ’tis pleasanter Travelling: The Roads are magnificent, the Inns well provided with every thing that a Traveller, were he hard to please, can desire; and all at a reasonable Price.
FromToulouseI travell’d toPau, a City and Parliament ofBearn, famous for the Birth ofHenryIV. on the 1st ofDecember, Anno 1557, for which ReasonCatherine de Medicishis Mother-in-Law,who did not love him, call’d him theBearnois: In the Castle is still to be seen the Chamber where this Prince was born: This City consists but of one great Street, at the End whereof stands the Castle, which is very ancient. The Houses in general seem’d very inconsiderable, they being all low, small, and without Ornament; but the Suburbs are very pleasant: As one goes out of the Gate, towards thePyrenees, there’s a very thick Wood, with several Alleys cut out in it, that form a noble Walk: From this Wood, which stands upon very high Ground to thePyrenees, one sees an extensive Valley, in which runs a very fine River, on the Banks whereof are several scattering Villages and little Hamlets, that form one of the most agreeable Prospects.
In Travelling fromPautoBayonne’twas plain that we were got out ofLanguedoc, the Roads being terrible, and the Inns detestable, for which Reason I did not halt at all by the Way, but made Haste toBayonne: The next Day after I arriv’d, I went to pay a Visit to the King’s Lieutenant, who commanded there: He was a Native ofCanada, and, if I am not mistaken, had been a Major or Lieutenant-Colonel in the Regiment ofNormandy: The Duke Regent had made him a Brigadier, and at the same time created him a Knight ofSt. Lewis, at that great Promotion of Knights which he made at the Beginning of the War withSpain: He had given him for his Assistant oneDadoncourt, as a Man that he could depend on; and ’twas this Gentleman that receiv’d me, the King’s Lieutenant being at that time absent fromBayonne: I lik’d thisDadoncourtat first Sight: He entertain’d mepolitely, and when I told him my Intention to go toSpain; he said, I might do as I pleas’d, and that he saw nothing to hinder it: He came next Day to see me, and invited me to dine with him: I accepted his Kindness, but afterwards repented it; for the Company was far from being select, and the Conversation very much disgusted me: In my first Interview withDadoncourtI made Mention to him of a Visit that I had paid to the Countde S——inLanguedoc: He talk’d of this to me very much while we were at Dinner, and he declar’d his Astonishment, that the Duke Regent had restor’d him to his Liberty, instead of cutting off his Head, as he had deserv’d:Really, said he, with some Warmth of Temper, to which I fancy the Wine had in some measure contributed,His Royal Highness was too good-natur’d; all those Rascals, that presum’d to have a Hand in the Prince ofCellamare’s Affair, ought to have paid for it with their Heads: I could not help being amaz’d at the Man’s Pertness, and told him very mildly, that the Regent had behav’d most wisely, and that it would have been too cruel to put People of the first Quality to Death, the Spilling of whose Blood would perhaps have rous’d some Vengeance:Alas! Sir, said he,What could have been done? The Duke ofOrleanswas sure of the Guards and Garisons; every body in the Country would certainly have stood up in his Defence, and I myself would have been the Hangman to have tuck’d up the first Gentleman that had offer’d to make a Disturbance: I plainly saw that I had to do with a surly Companion; and perceiving also that he was fuddled, I let him run on as much as he would, in magnifying the Attachment he pretended he had to the Duke Regent; but madea Promise to myself, that it should be the last time I would visit a Man that was so bloody-minded.
After Dinner was over, I went to have Audience of the Queen ofSpain,Mary-AnneofNeubourg, the Dowager ofCharlesII. When I came to the Palace, or rather to a very pitiful House, where the Queen was lodg’d, I found one of her Equerries, who carry’d me to an Antichamber, and leaving me for a few Moments, he came again, and conducted me to the Apartment of the Duchess ofLiquares, Lady of Honour to the Queen; who was prodigiously civil to me, but, as she understood no Language besides theSpanish, it was impossible for us to converse, otherwise than by Signs, of which she gave me a good Number, and which I answer’d by as many Bows. As good Luck would have it, we were disengag’d from one another by an Order that came to her, to carry me to the Queen: I found her Majesty standing all alone in her Chamber, and dress’d in Black after theSpanishMode: I saw in the next Chamber some of the Maids of Honour, who were also in theSpanishDress, and peep’d in at the Door, which was left half open: The Queen receiv’d me very graciously, ask’d my Name and my Country, and seem’d overjoy’d to find aGerman, who was tolerably acquainted with a Country for which she had always an Affection: She inquir’d what News I brought of the Elector and the Princes her Brothers: I was qualify’d to satisfy her Majesty in all those Questions, because I had the Honour of paying my Court punctually to the Elector Palatine, and the Princes her Brothers: In fine, after an Audience of an Hour and more, the Queen dismiss’d me, when I stoop’d with oneKnee to the Ground, and kiss’d her Hand, according to the Custom that is observ’d inSpain.
The next and the following Days I had the Honour to pay my Duty to her; sometimes in the Capuchins Convent, where she heard Mass very often; and sometimes in that of the Cordeliers, to which her Majesty went almost every Afternoon to Prayers: At other times I repair’d to a Garden behind the House, where her Majesty frequently took a Walk after she had din’d. This Princess always express’d herself in such a kind familiar manner as charm’d me, and she was often glad to be disencumber’d from that Ceremony, which is no less fatiguing to the Princes who grant Audience, than to those who are admitted to it: She did me the Honour to ask me one Day, Whether I did not wonder to see her in such mean Lodgings, and with such a despicable Court? I own’d to her, that at first I was a little surpriz’d at her Majesty’s preferring such a Mansion to the old Castle in the Town, which really look’d more like a Palace than the House she liv’d in:But, said she,I am so us’d to my little Habitation, that I can’t find in my Heart to leave it: I retir’d to it during the Contention between the Houses ofAustriaandBourbon,that I might not be so much exposed to Company, as I must have been unavoidably, if I had resided in the Castle, where every Passenger, either fromSpainorFrance,would no doubt have been desirous of seeing me; all which Visits would infallibly have given Umbrage to one or other of the Two Parties, if not to Both; and I had good Reasons to keep fair with each.
Another Day, when I had the Honour to discourse with her aboutSpainandGermany, I took the Freedom to tell her, that I wonder’d whyher Majesty chose rather to stay atBayonne, than to live in one or other of those Countries where I fancy’d she would have more Authority, and more People of Quality to attend her.As for your Persons of Quality, said the Queen,I do not give myself much Trouble about them: All Men are alike to crown’d Heads, and are great no farther than as we bring them to our Courts, and honour them with our Confidence. A Man that you now call a Scrub, perhaps, if I were to give him a Post To-morrow, and admit him to my Service, he is to me as great a Lord as if his Ancestors had liv’d and dy’d in the same Employment. And as for residing inSpainor inGermany,I have weighty Reasons against dwelling in either. For inSpainI should be oblig’d to live in a Convent, which is my utter Aversion. InGermanyI should, indeed, have all my Family about me; but the Court ofSpainwould, perhaps, be uneasy at my living in the Empire, and I should be teiz’d in respect to my Dowry, which I am very willing to preserve.
All these Reasons, and what was more than all, a long Acquaintance, made her loth to quitBayonne; and that Retirement she enjoy’d there, was more agreeable to her Taste, than the Bustle of a numerous Court, where very often the Prince and the Courtier tread on one another’s Toes. The Air of Freedom which reign’d at this little Court, and the Queen’s Goodness in conversing with me so often, was the reason that I put off my Journey toSpainfrom one Day to another. At last, however, after various Delays, I prepar’d in good earnest for my Departure. But at the very Time when I thought I had nothing more to do than to take my Leave of her Majesty, a very disgraceful Incident happen’dto me, which put me as much out of Conceit withBayonneas I was before in Love with it. By some imprudent Jokes that I had thrown out in Conversation, I had incurr’d the Displeasure of the King’s Lieutenant, who made use of a specious Pretext in order to be reveng’d of me. I will tell you my Tale in a few Words as follows:
There was a Woman at the Queen’s Court, who, by her Frankness, in which there was a Mixture of Impertinence, made her Court to the Queen with so much Art, that her Majesty was kinder to her than any Services she was capable of performing could deserve at her Hands. This Woman’s Name wasla Borde: She was a Merchant’s Widow, but married afterwards clandestinely to the Queen’sMajor-Domo, and had the intire Government of her Majesty’s House, where she did not fail to give her daily Attendance.
The Queen having permitted this Woman to sit in her Presence, it made her so vain, that she forgot her mean Original, and affected the Air of a Princess; but so ill did it become her, that she was quickly hated for it, not only by the Queen’s Officers, but by the whole City ofBayonne. The only Person who was attach’d to her, was the King’s Lieutenant; and that, for no other Reason, but because this Officer being in a poor Plight when he came first toBayonne, and having moreover little to depend on, was oblig’d to solicit the Queen for some Gratifications, in whichMadame la Bordehad employ’d her Interest to serve him: And serve him she did without much Difficulty, because the Queen is so good-natur’d and generous, that she is never better pleas’d than when she is bestowing Favours.The Grotesque Figure of the King’s Lieutenant, and the queer Dress of the Ladyla Borde, were an inexhaustible Fund of Mirth for the Queen’s Houshold. In short, ’twas impossible for a Person of the most serious Gravity, not to laugh on the one hand at the old shock Pate of the Lieutenant, who was vulgarly call’dThe Eternal Father, and on the other hand to see Damela Borde, who was commonly wrapp’d up in Three or Four Night-Gowns of different Colours one over another, and one shorter than the other, whose favourite Head-Geer was Cornets fix’d on, with a careless Air, by Scarlet Ribbons, and who had a monstrous Nosegay of Flowers ty’d to one Side of her, with a Straw-colour’d Ribbon, and the Picture of some unknown Saint fasten’d also to the other, by a Ribbon of the same Colour: And to all these Gowns, a little Lackey, every whit as ridiculous as the Mistress, was the Train-Bearer. I profess to you,Madame, that I could not contain myself at the Sight of such ridiculous Figures; and therefore, being once with some Company at Supper, when I was in a gay Humour, I let fall some very severe Banters upon this charming Couple; of which the King’s Lieutenant being inform’d, vow’d Revenge; and I was advertis’d by aGermanCordelier, who was the Queen’s Confessor, that there was a Design to apprehend me. But not being conscious of any Crime I had committed to deserve it, I thought, at first, ’twas only given out to terrify me. Nevertheless, I went toDadoncourt, and, without mentioning any Name, acquainted him of the Warning that had been given to me. He swore by his Honour, and call’d to God to witness it, that he never had a Thought of arrestingme; and that I was free to go when and where I pleas’d. Upon this I went back to my Quarters, almost persuaded that I had been falsly alarm’d; but no sooner was I in my Chamber, but the Major of the Place enter’d, with a subaltern Officer and a couple of Soldiers, with their Bayonets at the End of their Musquets. He told me, that he was come in the King’s Name to arrest me, and that he had Orders to commit me to the Citadel, together with myValet de Chambre. He also demanded all my Papers, and the Keys of my Coffers; and whatever he ask’d for I gave him. He left my Cloaths,&c.to the Care of my Landlord, charging him to be answerable for them; and then carry’d me to the Citadel, where I was put into one Room, and myValet de Chambreinto another; and a Centinel was clapp’d at my Door, who was order’d to let no Person whatsoever come to speak to me. Towards the Evening, when they brought me Supper, I desir’d Pen, Ink, and Paper, which was presently granted, and I wrote to the King’s Lieutenant, to be inform’d of the Reason why he had put me under an Arrest, and at the same Time to know whether I might be permitted to write intoFranceto the Duke Regent and my Friends. He sent me Answer next Day, that the only Cause of my being a Prisoner was, that I had discover’d too much Friendship to the Countde S——: That I ought to remember what I said of the Count before his Face, in Presence of Witnesses, which had given him a Suspicion that I was but too deeply concern’d in the Conspiracy he had fomented against the Regent: That in Consequence, especially as he had not the Honour to know me, he should have thought it a Failure of his Duty, if he hadnot secur’d my Person: That, for the rest, he would write to Court, and that, if it appear’d I was not guilty of any thing, I should soon be set at Liberty. He concluded his Letter with Assurances of his Friendship, and a Protestation that he would do what he could to serve me.
Since I knew not what I could do better, as my Circumstances then were, I was glad to depend upon the good Offices which the King’s Lieutenant proffer’d to do me; and in order to compose myself a little, I lay a Bed as long as ever ’twas possible; for the only Remedy that could render my Imprisonment tolerable was Sleep: But when I awak’d, a thousand different Thoughts rack’d my Brain: Projects brooded over Projects, and I imagin’d Schemes without Number for Deliverance out of my Scrape; but they were no other than so many Castles in the Air, which instantly vanish’d as soon as I came to serious Reflection.
Having pass’d my Time thus for several Days, I receiv’d a Visit, which at first did not please me. Who should enter my Room, but an Officer, a Serjeant, and Four Soldiers, with their Bayonets in their Musquets. The Officer told me I must go with him to the Major of the Citadel, who was appointed to examine me. Being in a Situation wherein ’twas my wisest way to be tractable, I follow’d the Officer. When we came before the Major, we found him sitting in an Elbow-Chair: He was wonderful civil to me, and desir’d me to excuse him for not rising up to receive me, because he was so afflicted with the Gout that he could not stir. Then he pray’d me to sit down, and ask’d me who and what I was, whence and whither I was bound, and the like: To all those Questions I return’d veryLaconicAnswers, which, together with the Questions, were reduc’d to Writing, and I was made to sign them; and then I was carry’d back to my Chamber.
Two Days after this myValet de Chambrewas set at Liberty, and had Leave to attend me. I was also permitted to receive a Visit from one FatherThomas, aGermanCapuchin. These two Favours, granted both at once, pleas’d me mightily; and I entertain’d great Hopes that my own Liberty was approaching: So that every time I heard the Rattle of the Keys, I imagin’d my Keeper was coming to tell me that I was no longer his Prisoner. I flatter’d myself that the Duke Regent would give Orders for my Discharge, and therefore was impatient to hear from him: But when I heard, the Message was very different from what I expected: ForDadoncourtsent me a Note, acquainting me, that he had receiv’d Orders from Court to confine me more closely. He not only executed his Orders, but I really believe he exceeded them; for, not content with depriving me a second Time of myValet de Chambre, and forbidding FatherThomasto come near me, ’twas no Thanks to him that I had not been starv’d to Death with Hunger and Cold. He was afraid that my bare Imprisonment was not Punishment enough, and therefore he treated me with all the Severity that could be. My Commons were retrench’d one half; and as to Firing, it was intirely suppress’d, for fear I should set Fire to the Citadel. I therefore wrote to him, and made an Offer to purchase it at my own Expence, if he would give me Leave: But he made me Answer, that aPrussiancould not be so chilly as to be sensible of the Cold inGuyenne; and he was so impertinentas to add, that if I was really cold, he would have me keep my Bed. Nor was this all: Money was so scarce with me, that I was resolv’d to discount the Bank Bills I had left, which were almost sunk to nothing. ButDadoncourtno sooner heard of it, than he sent the Banker an Order not to discount them, for fear, perhaps, that I should make use of the Money to corrupt my Keepers. Moreover, he abus’d his Authority to such a Degree, that he caus’d my Cloaths &c. to be sold, to pay for what I had run up at my Quarters while I stay’d atBayonne. I would fain have prevented this Sale, but ’twas to no Purpose, for I could not get Leave so much as to send a Friend thither to take Care that every thing was done with tolerable Decency; so thatDadoncourt’s Valet de Chambrebought the whole for one Eighth Part of the Value; and I could never get a just Account what the Profit of the Sale amounted to. ’Tis true, that when I was restor’d to my Liberty, they did not demand any Money of me.
So many Injuries offer’d to me, one upon the Neck of another, exasperated me not a little. I wrote several Letters not only to the Duke ofOrleans, butM. le Blanc, Secretary of War, and sent them to the Post-House atAcqsby a Soldier, who undertook to deliver them for some Money, which I handed to him, together with my Letters, thro’ a Chink of my Door: But it all signify’d nothing. I likewise wrote a Letter to the Queen ofSpain, but that Princess, who then deem’d me a State Criminal, did not care to be concern’d for me: Which Denial of her’s completed my Despair, and I took it so much to Heart, that I fell sick, but they would not allow me a Physician.
At this very Time the Baronde Montbelcame toBayonne, and hearing that I was a Prisoner in the Citadel, he desir’d to see me. This Baron, who was by Birth aFrenchman, went toBerlinat the Time of the Revocation of the Edict ofNantes: He had an Employment given him at that Court, and had been a Captain in the Regiment which was my late Father’s. He was going at this Time toSpain.Dadoncourtrefus’d point-blank to let him come and see me. Then the Baron desir’d Leave to send me his Compliments by myValet de Chambre, whichDadoncourtgranted, but ’twas only to affront me the more grosly; for myValet de Chambrewas no sooner enter’d into the Citadel, but he was search’d, in order to know if he had not Letters for me; and none being found upon him,Dadoncourtsaid he was sure that the Baron had given him Letters to deliver to me, and that he must and should produce them. My Man still denying that he had receiv’d any Letter, was thrown into a Dungeon, where he was threatened he should lie till he rotted, if he did not confess that Letters had been given or offer’d to him for me.
This,Madame, was my melancholy Situation atBayonne, having been arrested on sham Pretences, pining with Hunger and Cold, depriv’d of all Help, abandon’d by a Princess on whose Protection I had great Dependance, and having nothing to comfort me: I had a good Conscience indeed, which did not reproach me with any thing laid to my Charge; but this is a weak Support, when a Man is to cope with such Enemies as make no more to destroy the Innocent than the Guilty! A Persecution so unjust plung’d me sometimes into Melancholy, and atother times made me raving mad; so that when I came to myself, I was afraid I should lose all my Reason. At last this Disturbance of my Mind, all these Passions subsided happily in a Philosophical Calm, which restor’d me to myself. When I was composed, I reason’d justly enough: I consider’d, that to fret and vex myself to Death, would be the greatest Folly I could be guilty of; and that there was no other Remedy but Time and Patience: I resolv’d therefore to acquiesce like a true Philosopher; and I said to myself, that I had nothing more to do but to be as easy as I could in the Citadel, tillLewisXV. was declar’d of Age.
I had just begun to be reconcil’d to my Chamber and to Silence, when News was brought me of my Liberty: ’Twas on the 31st ofJanuarythatDadoncourt’s Valet de Chambrecame and told me, that his Master had received Orders from Court to let me out of the Citadel; but that, as it was late, he desir’d me to stay there that Night, and that next Day I might go where I pleas’d: I consented to lye one Night more in the Citadel; but next DayDadoncourt, without Regard to the Assurance he had sent me that I should have my full Liberty, and, by Consequence, either stay or set out that Instant, as I pleas’d; sent to ask me what time I intended to go forSpain; adding, that he had received Orders to send me thither, and not to suffer me to stay any longer inBayonne: I return’d him a short Answer, but said enough to him to give him to understand, that I was not in a Condition to set out, because, as my whole Substance consisted in Bank Bills, which were at that time worth little or nothing, I was under a Necessity of staying till I had discounted them, and that in the mean time I wascontent to remain in the Citadel, till I could raise Money, unless he himself would be so kind as to assist me: I added, that if I must not discount my Bills, I desir’d Leave at least to go toHolland, where I should find Relations or Friends who would serve me:Dadoncourtreturn’d me an Answer with all the Sauciness and Impertinence of a Man of his Kidney: He sent to tell me, that he was neither a Money-Changer, nor a Banker, to discount my Bills; that I could not stay in the Citadel, because he had Orders to turn me out of it; and lastly, that he would not suffer me to go toHolland, because he was by the same Order injoin’d to send me toSpain: I thought this a blunt Sort of an Answer; for, in short, as he knew who I was, he might, and even ought, to have us’d me more politely; and even supposing that his Orders were as urgent as he pretended, yet a Gentleman would have known better than to notify them in that manner: I therefore saw myself under a Necessity of travelling toSpain, with nothing but my Staff to support me; which would certainly have been the Case, had it not been for FatherThomas, who helped me to 40 Pistoles, upon Two thousand Livres worth of Bank Bills; which Money I made use of to bear my Travelling-Expences: The Luggage I had to carry was not very cumbersome; for I have had the Honour to acquaint you, thatDadoncourthad taken Care of that by selling off what I had. My Journey toSpainbeing reckon’d an Affair of the utmost Importance, I had a Guard put upon me to conduct me to the Frontiers, where they were so civil, as to shew me the Orders from Court, which were executed with the utmost Strictness: They were contain’d in a Letter directed toDadoncourtfromM. le Blancthe Secretary at War, in Substance as follows:His Royal Highness is willing, Sir, that you should release the Baronde Pollnitz,who is a Prisoner in the Citadel ofBayonne,on Condition that he depart the Kingdom; and for this Reason I desire you to cause him to be conducted to the Frontier ofSpain.
My Guard took Leave of me on the Frontiers and I continued my Journey toPampeluna: By the Way I saw the famousPyreneanMountains, the Passage of which is very different from that of theAlps, there being not an Inn to be met with but what looks much more like a Den of Thieves: The Inhabitants of these Mountains have something mischievous in their very Physiognomy, which makes Travellers afraid of ’em. I was forc’d to spend one Night with myValet de Chambrein a Cabaret, where there being a Score of these Fellows, we resolv’d to sit up all Night without going to Bed; and I fancy, that in so doing, we acted very wisely, for those Mountaineers look’d like a Parcel of Cut-throats: I set out as early as possible in the Morning from this horrible Place forPampeluna, where I arriv’d towards the Evening: I alighted at an Inn, which was recommended to me as the best in Town, but I found it every whit as bad as those that I had met with in my Passage fromBayonne: The Bread, the Wine, their Meat, Bedding and every thing was detestably bad: However, as I thought I had a better Chance for my Life there, than in the Houses of Entertainment among the Mountains; I made myself amends for sitting up all the last Night, and slept soundly till next Day.
I went and paid a Visit to the Prince ofCastilloneViceroy ofNavarre, who was prodigiouslycivil to me: I let him into the true State of my Affairs, and what I had suffer’d from the King’s Lieutenant atBayonne: This Nobleman seem’d to be concern’d at my present Condition, and was so kind as to make me an Offer of whatever I wanted; but as to the Treatment I had met with from the King’s Lieutenant, it surpriz’d him not at all: He told me too, that I was not the first Man who had been so treated, and that he could not imagine how it happen’d, that the Regent was not informed of all the Acts of Injustice committed atBayonne: He advis’d me to write to his Royal Highness, and to give him an exact Account of all my Treatment:If this, said he,does not procure you some Amends, I am certain, at least, that ’twill get him a Reprimand: I did asM. de Castilloneadvis’d me; I wrote both to the Regent and toM. le Blanc, but ’twas all to no Purpose; for my Enemies had made such a Devil of me to the Prince and the Minister, that not content with returning me no Answer, they wrote toM. de M——, who had the Care of theFrenchAffairs atMadrid, to thwart me in every thing he could: And he, for his Part, punctually observ’d his Instructions, not so much in pure Obedience to his Prince, as for the Pleasure he took in doing me Mischief.
M. de Castillonewas so good-natur’d as to shew me what was most remarkable atPampeluna: We took a Walk together without the Town, the Situation of which I thought very fine: ’Tis encompass’d with Walls, and fortify’d with Bastions and Half-Moons: Yet all this Fortification would be of little Defence, were it not for the Citadel, which was repair’d, and considerably augmented, during the Ministry of the CardinalAlberoni.
All the Road fromPampelunatoMadridis quite disagreeable, there being nothing to be seen but rusty Fields, here and there a ragged Village; and what was still more vexatious, Houses of Entertainment, where there was scarce any thing to be had: But ’tis much worse when we leaveNavarre, and enterCastile, there being nothing at all to be had in their Public-Houses: You are accommodated with a Chamber indeed, and that’s all; for if you want to eat any thing, you must send out your Domestics to buy it, and dress it yourselves: But, however, the Necessaries of Life may be easily had any where, and at a moderate Price: I travell’d thro’ the whole Country without meeting with any Disaster, which is not a little astonishing, Murders and Robberies being very common inSpain.
I arriv’d on aSunday-Night atAlcala, a City inNew-Castile, famous for its University: This City is oblig’d for its Magnificence to the CardinalXimenes, who, being Prime Minister underFerdinandofArragon, andIsabelofCastile, spar’d no Cost to render this City one of the most beautiful inSpain: The first thing that he did was to build very fine Colleges; and when he became Regent ofSpain, after the Death ofFerdinand, he founded an University here.
’Tis but Seven Leagues fromAlcalatoMadrid, but this Capital is not to be seen till one comes just upon it, because it stands in a Bottom on the RiverMancanares: The Entrance intoMadridhas a feint Resemblance for a little way, with the Entrance intoRome, thro’ the Gatedel Popoli: Three Streets, in the Shape of a Goose’s Foot, lead to the Centre of the City: I went intothat on the Right Hand, which carry’d me to the Square ofSt. Domingo, where was aFrenchInn, to which I had been recommended: When I alighted out of my Chaise, I was heartily embrac’d by a Man whom I had formerly seen in the Service of KingStanislausofPoland, and afterwards atParis, but he was oblig’d to fly from that City, for Fear of falling into the Hands of Justice.
This Man was accus’d of being One in Three who had robb’d and murder’d an Abbe: Tho’ he was run away, the Trial took its Course, and he was condemn’d in Outlawry to be broke alive on the Wheel, which Sentence was executed accordingly in Effigie: After several Tours he came at last toMadrid, where all that come fromFranceare receiv’d with open Arms: He had chang’d his Name ofLe G——for that of the BaronD——. I recollected him perfectly the very Moment that he embraced me, but his Affair inFrancewas still so fresh in my Memory, that I did not think fit to make a very affectionate Return for the Civilities of this new Baron, but ask’d a great many Pardons that I could not call him to Mind: The Man seem’d still very eager to be known to me, and said,Pray, are not you the Baronde Pollnitz?Don’t you remember to have seen me atBerlin,then atHanover,&c.I still pretended Ignorance; but my Gentleman proceeded to rub up my Memory, and talk’d a great deal to me of his Journey toParis, and mention’d several Circumstances: Being at last fatigued with all this long Detail, I thought it would oblige him to give him some Glimpse that I knew him; and therefore mention’d the Names of several People that we had been with together, to make him believe that I was inQuest of his; and at length seeing him overjoy’d to think that I was like to find out his Name by beating the Bush, I chose to give him that Satisfaction, and said to him, tho’ with an Air of great Uncertainty,Pray, Sir, Was not your NameLe G——? At the very Mention of this Name my Friend chang’d Countenance, turn’d from red to pale, and retir’d at last without giving me an Answer, or, at least, ’twas with such a low Voice, that I could not understand a Syllable of what he said. For my own Part, I thought of nothing but calling to my Landlord for a Room; and after I had rested myself a little, I went down at Night to sup at my Landlord’s Table, where some of the Company happen’d to be the very same Officers that had seen me talking withLe G——. They ask’d me, if I was acquainted with the Gentleman that accosted me, and what was his Name: I made no Scruple to satisfy them, and not knowing that he had alter’d his Name upon his leavingFrance, I said, without thinking any Harm, that ’twasLe G——, I had no sooner pronounc’d his Name, but one of the Company cry’d out,Ah! Morblieu! the very Man that assassinated the AbbeV.How durst such a Villain come hither to sollicit an Employment!I plainly saw that I had committed an Oversight, in discovering a Name to those Strangers, which had put the Person who bore it so much out of Countenance; but I thought at the same time, thatLe G——had been guilty of a much greater, in putting me under that Necessity: I endeavour’d to set all to Rights again, by saying, that perhaps I was mistaken, and that the BaronD——was notLe G——: but they would not admit of it; they all exaggerated the Baseness of the Murder that had forc’d him tofly fromFrance; and, in short, the Story was so toss’d about in an Instant, that the pretended Baron was oblig’d to leaveMadrid: I have been told since, that he retir’d toPortugal, where Fortune has been pretty Favourable to him.
I had not been long atMadridbefore I met with several of my Acquaintance: The very Day after my Arrival I receiv’d Visits from above a Score of Officers,FrenchandGermans, whom I had seen at several Courts: At my Quarters I also found the Baronde Montbel, who had taken so much fruitless Pains to inquire after my Health when I was a Prisoner in the Citadel ofBayonne: To be short, in a very little time, I found as many, and even more Acquaintance than I wanted, especially at my first coming toMadrid, where I did not aim at keeping any Company more than was necessary to my obtaining an Employment: I thought immediately how I should be introduc’d to the King and Queen: The Person who procur’d me Audience from his Majesty was onela Roche, aFrenchmanby Birth, who was the King’s chiefValet de Chambre, Secretary of his Dispatches, and likewise Introducer of Ambassadors.
’Twas in a private Audience that I had the Honour of waiting on his Majesty: This is different from a public Audience, in that the latter, which is generally for common People, is granted with the Doors open, and in Presence of the Grandees, who are standing on both Sides of the Hall, and cover’d: The King is then seated in a Chair of State, plac’d under a Canopy: From the Entrance of the Audience Room to the King’s Chair Three Genuflections are made; and when the Persons, who are honour’d with the Audience, are advanc’d near his Majesty’s Person, theydeliver what they have to say upon their Knees:PhilipV. never makes any other Answer, thanI will see, I will consider it. After such Audience is ended, the Person who officiates as Master of the Ceremonies gives Notice with an audible Voice, when there is to be a private Audience. The Grandees then retire, and the Doors are shut, and I had my Audience in the manner following: I found the King alone in his Chamber, made my Three Obeisances to him, and when I came near to him fell on my Knees: I then said to him, that having heard his Majesty’s Piety and his Zeal for the Catholic Religion highly extoll’d in all Places where-ever I had been; I thought I could not do better than to come and prostrate myself at his Feet, and to offer him my most humble Service; that I had incurr’d the Displeasure of my Sovereign, and lost all Expectation of ever being able to serve with Satisfaction in my own Country, because I had embrac’d theRomishReligion, whereof I shew’d his Majesty a Testimonial, sign’d by the Cardinalde Noailles: I also shew’d him a Letter from the King ofPrussia, with the Grant of the first Pension annex’d to the Office of Gentleman of the Bedchamber, which I had still no doubt enjoy’d, had I not alter’d my Religion: The King took the King ofPrussia’s Letter, and the Testimonial of the Cardinalde Noailles, look’d upon both of them, and return’d them to me, saying,I will consider your Request, and will soon dispatch you: I then presented a Memorial to him, which he put in his Pocket, after which I arose, and went backwards out of the Chamber, repeating my Three Obeisances.
From the King’s Audience I went to that of the Queen, to which I was introduc’d by herchiefMajor-Domo: This Princess was dress’d in theAmazonsHabit, because she was going a Hunting with the King; her first Lady of Honour and some of the Ladies of the Bedchamber were present: I also saw in the Door-way between the Chamber of Audience and the Queen’s own Chamber the Prince ofAsturias, who dy’d King ofSpainin 1724, theInfanteshis Brothers, and theInfanta Maria-Anna Victoria. I deliver’d myself to the Queen in very near the same Words as I had just before to the King, and she return’d me a gracious Answer, thatShe should be always glad to serve me as far as lay in her Power: I withdrew, hugely delighted with so obliging an Answer.
This,Madame, was my first setting out at the Court ofSpain: It was natural, in the first Place, to look after the Main-Chance; for, as I have had the Honour to acquaint you, I had but little Cash; and what was worse Luck than all, no Effects, from which I could hope to raise any, so that if I had thrown myself ever so little into Company, I should have run the Risque of being soon a Beggar: The obliging manner in which the King and Queen had been pleas’d to receive me, was a reviving Cordial to my drooping Spirits: I began to entertain fresh Hopes, and thinking myself already in some Share of Favour, I went abroad among my Acquaintance, I found old Friends, and made new ones, and I had good Success at Play, which I thought a happy Omen, and enabled me to frequent the Court with that Ease and Freedom, which Persons seldom discover whose Finances are out of Order.
I am now to give you a short Account of the Court, and of those who made the greatest Figureat it; I need not treat of the King, all Mankind knows, and the late Wars sufficiently prov’d, thatLewis, Dauphin ofFrance, Son toLewisXIV. was his Father: He marry’d to his first WifeMaria-Louisa GalerielaofSavoy, who dy’d atMadridthe 14th ofFebruary, 1714, and whose Memory is still dear to theSpaniards; they greatly miss theSavoyard, as they call this Princess; The King ofSpainhad several Children by her; the Eldest wasDon Lewis, Prince ofAsturias, afterwards King ofSpain, by the Resignation of the King his Father in 1724, but this young Prince dy’d the same Year: The Name of the second wasDon Philip, who was born atMadridin 1712, and dy’d in 1721; and the thirdDon Ferdinand, now Prince ofAsturias.
After the Death of that Princess the King marry’dElizabeth Farnese, Niece and Daughter-in-Law to the Duke ofParma: By this Princess the King has also had several Princes and Princesses: The Eldest Prince isDon Carlos, and was destin’d by the Quadruple Alliance to the Succession ofTuscanyand the Duchies ofParmaandPlacentia: The second isDon Philip, who was born the 15th ofMarch, 1720.
The Queen is tall and handsome, well-shap’d, but slender, and much pitted with the Small-Pox. She has a vast and enterprizing Genius, which no Difficulties can terrify. She made it very plain as soon as she set her Foot onSpanishGround, that she would not suffer herself to be led by the Nose: For before she had even seen the Face of the King, she banish’d the Princess ofUrsins, both from the Court and Kingdom, because of the Ascendant she knew that Princess had over the King. She thought also of removingtheFrenchfrom about him, and endeavour’d to put his Majesty out of Conceit with his own Countrymen. TheSpaniardswere at first well enough pleas’d with all these Alterations, and hop’d that at length one of their own Nation would be singled out for Prime Minister; but they had the Mortification to see themselves govern’d by a Foreigner. The Abbot (afterwards Cardinal)Alberoni, by Birth aParmesan, was advanc’d to the chief Dignities both in Church and State, and govern’dSpainwith such seeming Success, as made the Subjects entertain great Hopes of him. He gave the Queen a Glimpse of mighty Fortune that was to befal her Son: But a more refin’d Set of Politics knock’d all those vain Projects on the Head; and the Queen was so prejudic’d against him, that she was the first who persuaded the King to remove the Cardinal; which happen’d in the Manner that I have already had the Honour to acquaint you. The Credit of the Queen herself, however, suffer’d some Shock by this Alteration; for the King was for a while undetermin’d what Measures to take, but at length he replac’d all his Confidence in the Queen, and ’tis she that still governs, tho’, indeed, she is supported by Ministers who have great Talents for Government.
The Person who had the Charge of Foreign Affairs when I arriv’d atMadrid, was the MarquisGrimaldo, who had the Reputation of a Man of the strictest Honour and Probity. I had the Favour to see him more than once, and he always receiv’d me with very great Civility. I have been told, that he thorowly knows the King’s good Pleasure with regard to such private Men as make their Court to him; and thatwhen he tells a Person the King has a Respect for him, he need not despair of carrying any Point. Nevertheless, I question whether such a Compliment could be safely depended on; for, I observ’d, he paid it to a great many People: And, as for my own Part,M. Grimaldosaid to me, that the King was so gracious as to esteem me, before I had even the Honour of paying my Duty to his Majesty.
M. de Campo Floridohad the Management of the Finances. He was a very polite disinterested Minister; and ’tis certain that he made none of those Purchases which are always the Consequence of a splendid Fortune. But notwithstanding his being so disinterested, this Minister had the same Fate as all that have the Management of the Finances, not to be belov’d: And tho’ when he first came to the Direction of the Finances, he found them in a very bad State, no Allowance was made him upon that Score, but an Account was demanded from him of the Wealth which others had squander’d.
M. de Castelarwas Secretary at War, and had been just preferr’d to that Employment as I arriv’d atMadrid. He is the civillest Minister I ever knew: And tho’ he had such a Weight of Affairs upon him, he had an easy Air, which was a Pleasure to all that had any Business with him. He had another Quality, not very common to Gentlemen in the Ministry, which was to keep no body in Suspence; for People very soon knew what they had to trust to: And whether ’twas a Grant or a Refusal, they were equally satisfy’d with the Minister, who gave with Pleasure, and never refus’d a Request but when ’twas not in his Power to grant it.
These,Madame, were the Ministers then employ’d in the several Offices. At that time there was no Prime Minister inSpain; for, after CardinalAlberoni’s Disgrace, the King manag’d Affairs himself, or rather the Queen govern’d as the real Sovereign. But as great as her Sway was, she had much ado to get the better of the King’s Confessor, who had a great Share in all Affairs. This was the famous FatherDaubanton, a Jesuit, who had an Ascendant over the King to such a Degree, that nothing of Moment was transacted without his Opinion. He was therefore, in Reality, the Prime Minister ofSpain; at least he only wanted the Title, for he perform’d the Functions of such a one, but without the Wit, the Finesse, and the Policy of the disgrac’d Minister; for he was severe, merciless, and so hard-hearted, that when he saw Officers reduc’d to the last Extremity for want of their Pay, it gave him no Disturbance. To him I apply’d, as every body else did, to beg the Honour of his Protection; and when I came near him, I found him a haughty proud Man, and one that was extremely rigid. ’Tis true, that when he had to do with Persons from whom he expected any Services, all this Stateliness was laid aside; he was then quite another Man: And was so perfect a Matter of the Art of dissembling, that Civility, Good-nature, and Humility seem’d painted so strongly in his Features, as would induce one to think nothing could be more sincere, and that this external Appearance was the pure Expression of his secret Thoughts. TheRomanPurple was, they say, the Centre of all his Views; and, being wholly ambitious of this Dignity, he thought every Measure equally right that had a Tendency to a red Hat. CardinalAlberoniwheedled him with the Hopes of it one while, just to get some Services of him that he then stood in need of. The Regent ofFrancealso gave him a Prospect of it, as a Reward that he might infallibly depend on, if he could prevail on his Catholic Majesty to sign the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance. This Jesuit set heartily about it, and succeeded; but the Hat, so much aspir’d after, was given to another; and all the Thanks that the Reverend Father had for his Pains, was an Abbey for one pf his Nephews. Something offer’d before I leftSpain, which will give me occasion to speak to you of this Cardinal again.
CardinalBorgiawas also in very high Favour, but a wrong Person to apply to for Services; which indeed was owing to his Indolence more than any other Reason; for, as to a friendly Temper, I do not think there ever was a Man who possess’d that Virtue in a more eminent Degree. He was withal very devout, but was reckon’d so unlearned, that I have been assur’d he did not know a word ofLatin; and upon this Head I heard the following Story, which I do not retail to you for Gospel. I was told, that when the Duke ofSt. Aignan, the Ambassador ofFrance, was preparing to make this Cardinal a Visit, he was appris’d that his Eminency did not understandFrench. The Ambassador thought it would do every whit as well if he convers’d with him inLatin, and therefore he greeted him in that Language; but he found, to his great Surprize, that the Prelate made Answer to him inSpanish, that he did not understand theFrenchTongue; and somebody, who was present at the Audience, telling the Cardinal, that the Ambassador spoke to him not inFrenchbut inLatin, the Cardinal said,Aye, but I do not understand Latin-French: So that there was a Necessity of carrying on the Conversation by an Interpreter.
Tho’ the Characters of the Ministers and Favourites were so different, there was a Necessity of my conforming to them all, in Hopes that the Steps I had taken would not be in vain. I took great Care therefore to see them all, to desire them to speak in my Favour. Whether they did so, I know not; nor whether the little Ray of Fortune which began to shine upon me, but soon vanish’d, was the Effect of their Recommendations, or to an Impression I had made upon the King’s Heart, by the Narrative I had given him of the State of my Affairs, the Disorder of which had been owing in the first Place to my changing my Religion, which had forc’d me to quit the Service of my Sovereign. Be this as it will, I received a very favourable Answer to the Memorial which I had the Honour of presenting to the King: He granted me a Lieutenant-Colonel’s Commission in the future Regiment ofSicily, together with theSoldo vivo, which amounted to about Sixteen Pistoles a Month. What they call theSoldo vivoinSpainis, when the same Pay is advanc’d as if the Corps was actually on an Establishment or Footing. I thought this very handsome Pay, and that my Affairs were already in a promising way. I found that with such a Sum an Officer might maintain himself very well in his Quarters. I actually form’d Schemes for a Settlement; and, having paid dear for my Folly, I began to talk of House-keeping. I computed, that with what would now be my Income fromSpain, and what was to revert to me from my own Family, Ishould be able to repair my tatter’d Equipage, and to appear in a decent Manner, till such time as Fortune, which now began to be something kinder than usual, had put me in a Condition to make the Figure I aspir’d to.
As soon as the King had admitted me into his Service, I did not fail to wait on him with my most humble Acknowledgments: I had also the Honour of thanking the Queen, to whom I made my Compliment inHigh-Dutch, and that Princess return’d me her Answer in the same Language. Soon after this I set out forArragon, where the Regiment in which I was to serve was then in Quarters. But as I came intoSpainwith very little Money, I was soon oblig’d to return toMadrid, to desire some small Gratuity, till I receiv’d my Pay. Some of my Friends advis’d me to ask boldly for a handsome round Sum, or for a Pension upon Benefices; because if I depended on my Pay for Subsistance, I should be very much out in my Reckoning; that inSpain, more than elsewhere, they were backward in their Pay, and always one Year in Arrear, and sometimes two or three, according as they dun the Minister, or dawb the Treasurer’s Fist. This News put me a little out of Temper, and from that time I began to perceive that Fortune would jilt me as much inSpainas she had done elsewhere: Nevertheless, my Courage did not quite fail me, I apply’d to the Secretary at War, who referred me to FatherDaubanton, and the latter told me, with all the Solemnity that could be, that ’twas none of his Business. You see,Madame, that this was a fine Setting out: However, I was not dishearten’d: And being so much us’d as I was to Rebuffs, I had as lieve be deny’d twice as once.I rapp’d at various Doors, but they were all either shut against me, or, if open’d, ’twas to no Purpose. I resolv’d to address myself immediately to the King, and had the Honour of presenting a Petition to him, in which I gave him an Account of my present Situation: 1st, By the Disaster of the Bank Bills; and, 2dly, by the strange Procedure of the King’s Lieutenant atBayonne. The King, when he took my Petition, answer’d,I will consider it.It must be observ’d, that the King was then atAranjuez, for which Reason there was no Minister with him butM. de Grimaldo. This was the Minister to whom the other Secretaries of War and the Finances, and the President of the Council ofCastile, were oblig’d to address their Dispatches, which was some Hindrance to Business; but, in short, such is the Practice of theSpanishCourt. For the Councils only attend the King atBuen Retiro, and this because ’tis inMadriditself; for as soon as the King goes from his Capital City, all Affairs pass thro’ the Hands of a single Minister.
I waited therefore uponM. de Grimaldo, to know the Result of my Petition. This Minister, according to his laudable Custom, told me, that the King had a very great Esteem for me: This thread-bare Answer was very little Comfort to me; and even tho’ it were true that his Majesty honour’d me with his Esteem, I saw plainly that mine was a Situation in which the Esteem of Princes is mere Whip-Cream, if it be not accompany’d with something solid. I earnestly press’dM. de Grimaldothat he would be so kind as to procure me something else besides Esteem. At last, after several Goings backward and forward, the Minister said to me oneDay, with a Smile, that my Affairs went on swimmingly: I immediately thought my Business done, and wanted nothing but to know the Value of the Gratuity or Pension that was granted to me: But there was nothing in it; the good Turn that my Affairs had taken, was only to be referr’d back again to FatherDaubanton. I waited, therefore, on the Reverend Father, and, with all possible Respect, ask’d him, what was the Effect of a Petition that had been referr’d to him? And to this humble Request I added another, still more humble, which was to obtain the Honour of his Protection: But my Compliment and my Respects were not very welcome, and he answer’d me, very short:Do you imagine, Sir, that I have nothing else to do, but to think of your Petition: I have not yet seen it, Sir, nor do I know whether it has ever been sent to me.I reply’d, but still with the profoundest Respect, thatM. de Grimaldohad told me that——Alas!said he, interrupting me,M. de Grimaldo! M. de Grimaldo!And the Words were no sooner out of his Mouth, but he whipp’d into his Closet, and slapp’d the Door in my Face. I saw plainly that the Wind did not sit right for his Reverence, and therefore lay by till next Day: Then I made up to him again much about the Time that I knew he us’d to go to the King, and planted myself in a Nook of his Entry, in the humble Posture of a Supplicant: The Jesuit, his Companion, seeing me there, desir’d me to walk into the Antichamber; but I could not be prevail’d on to accept of an Honour which I said did not belong to me; tho’ the Truth was, that I chose to stay in the Entry, as the surest Place of speaking with the Confessor; for I had observ’d, that the Reverend Father often put theBite upon People that waited for him in the Antichamber, by stealing out at a private Door that open’d into the Entry where I then was. I stay’d there a full Hour, when, as I had before imagin’d, I saw my Gentleman slipping out at the private Door: I accosted him in the Passage, and humbly put him in Mind, that I had the Honour of speaking to him the Day before: I found him in a little better Humour than he was then, for he promis’d me that he would speak to the King, and bid me attend him for the Answer next Day. You will imagine that I did not fail to be there: He told me then, that he had not an Opportunity as yet of speaking to the King about my Affair, but that he would infallibly mention it to him in a few Days: Mean time these Days amounted insensibly to Weeks, and the Weeks to Months, which had like to have put me out of all manner of Patience. I could not be reproach’d with Want of Solicitation, for certainly there was not a Morning but I took my Walk in the Confessor’s Antichamber, where he saw me sure enough, and would sometimes honour me with a Nod, and at other times with a Frown: And, in fine, after having so often danc’d Attendance, all I could obtain was a formal Denial.
I own to you,Madame, I was a little stunn’d by this Shock: For I had neither Money nor Credit, and knew not who I could ask to lend me a Sum, till I receiv’d a Quarter’s Wages: Besides, how could I depend upon such Pay as was put off from one Year to another? In this sad Situation I was so fortunate as to make an Acquaintance with Mr.Stanhope, by the means of oneHoltzendorff, that Minister’s Secretary, who was a Native ofBerlin, and has a BrotheraValet de Chambreto the King ofPrussia. He was glad to shew me his Acknowledgment of some Services my Relations had done him, by bringing me acquainted with his Master. Mr.Stanhopewas wonderfully kind to me, and even interceded in my Favour with the Confessor, and withM. Scotti, the Minister ofParma, who could do any thing with the Queen; but Mr.Stanhopehad no better Success than I had: However, he did me all the Services in his Power, press’d me to accept of his Table, offer’d me also his Equipage, and advanc’d me some Money: In a Word, he treated me as the best Friend I had could have done; and I may say, that I have substantial Obligations to that Gentleman, because, if it had not been for him,all my Daysin Spainwould have been Sorrows, and my Travel Grief[28].
While I lost so much Time in solliciting FatherDaubanton, I did not omit to take Notice of what was remarkable, not only atMadridbut the Royal Palaces, to which the Court remov’d from time to time.Madridis, properly speaking, the Capital City of allSpain, and the common Residence of its Kings, who have a large Palace there, the chief Front of which was built by the EmperorCharlesV. The Inside has been alter’d for the better, and much embellish’d byPhilipV. The Castle is at the End of a large Court which forms a long Square: The Two Sides of this Court are lin’d with low Buildings, Part whereof serves as a Guard-house for theSpanishandWalloonGuards, who range themselves in Two Rows in this Court, when the King or any of the Royal Family passes thro’ it.At the Entrance of this Court there are Three grand Portico’s. The Front of the Palace on the Court-side consists of a main Pile of Building, in the Centre between Two very narrow Pavilions; and at the Entrance of each is a great Gate: The middlemost, which is the principal, is very darksome, and leads into a very spacious Area, arch’d over, where several Coaches may turn at one and the same time: This separates Two Square Courts of the same Size and Structure, encompass’d with a Range of Free-Stone Pillars, that form a Piazza which runs all round it. In the Court, which is on the Right Hand, is the Stair-Case, which leads up to the Apartments of the King and Queen; and in the other are the Offices of the Ministers.
The King’s Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is neither spacious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three Apartments, built by Order of the Princess ofUrsins: The first of these is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion’d, inlaid and wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of several Kings, Queens and Princes ofSpain, painted by the ablest Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv’d in that Form for the Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this Apartment is a Passage to the King’s Chamber, which is very large, and intirely furnish’d with crimson Damask, adorn’d with Gold Lace and Fringe, tho’ the Tapistry can scarce be seen, ’tis so much hid by excellent Pictures and noble Pier-Glasses.
The Queen’s Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King’s: Her Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King’s: Their Majesties may walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly adorn’d: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Glass: None but theInfantesfit in the Gallery, and the Grandees ofSpainare seated upon Forms, that are plac’d on each Side from the Gallery to the Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow’d a Great Chair and a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho’ his Majesty be present: At least, I saw, that the CardinalBorgiahad that Privilege.
In this Palace the King us’d to pass the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then his Majesty went to the Palace ofRetiro, which stands near the Gate ofAlcala: ’Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but theSpaniardsare so negligent, that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to repair them: There are noble Pictures also in another Room of this same Palace, which represent the principal Actions of the Duke ofFeria, several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters to enlarge the Entry of the Room.
The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable.PhilipV. it seems intended once to have embellish’d them, and had actually caus’d the Works for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There’s nothing in them remarkablebesides a Statue of Brass, which is plac’d in the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall’d in: ’Tis a Statue ofPhilipII. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture inEurope: The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there: The King’s Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of very uncommon Animals.
The King and the Queen, whether they are atMadridor atRetiro, always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and when the Levee was notify’d, their Majesties did not rise for all that immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate: After this their Majesties sent for the Marquisde Grimaldo, with whom they talk’d about Business, after which they arose: Then FatherDaubantoncame in, and stay’d with the King a full Hour: His Majesty went afterwards to Mass, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience to his Subjects, or else went to the Council ofCastile: Sometimes he employ’d himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out together a Hunting, and return’d somewhat late: As soon as they were come back, they were serv’d with a Collation, which consisted of cold Partridge, of the like to which CollationsM. de Grimaldowas admitted: When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign Ministers, or otherPersons of Distinction: During these Audiences the King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he sent for the Marquisde CastelarorCampoflorido, who stay’d but Half an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their Associates; and sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at whichM. de Scotti, the Minister ofParma, and a very great Favourite, was generally present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from Table they went to Bed.
The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing, more gay than those atMadrid: I saw the Court more than once atAranjuez, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King. While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince ofAsturias, accompany’d by theInfantehis Brother and his Governors, hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night.
The King spent theEaster-Holidays while I was here at the Palace ofRetiro: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the Holy Week, which were made upon everyGood-Friday, to the Palace ofRetiro, where the King and the Queen, the Prince ofAsturiasand the Infants saw them pass: I will frankly confess toyou, that I never saw any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions: It seem’d as if they had been resolv’d to turn the most sacred thing in the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz’d, why a Court of Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as big as the Life in various Attitudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited on MountCalvary, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach’d forth to him by a little Angel, that was fasten’d only by a Wire, that it might look as if it hover’d in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder’d, and adorn’d with a Knot of colour’d Ribbons: In short, every Circumstance of the Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm’dcap-a-pie, and bearing Halberds in their Hands: Between every Image march’d the Clergy, and the several Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk’d Men who were cover’d all over with black Cloth, so that ’twas not possible to see so much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment for them to see and breathe thro’, tho’ they also made Use of it to blow asort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was follow’d by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to the Waist, whose Bodies were twin’d about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig’d them to hold them extended, as if they had been fasten’d to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and therefore they stay’d and join’d in the Procession, as it came back fromBuen Retiro.
There were Processions also in the same Taste during theEasterWeek, when the Holy Sacrament was carry’d to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry’d under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they danc’d before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church, till such time as the Benediction was pronounc’d.
I speak to you of these Ceremonies,Madame, as one that saw them with my own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny, invented to run down the Worship which the Church ofRomepays to the greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the Account of it, wereCalvinists: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness myself of every thing which I had beenassur’d was observ’d in the Ceremonial of theSpanishChurch: For this Reason I attended all these Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really scandaliz’d to see that verify’d which I had only imagin’d to be the Inventions of the Enemies of the Church ofRome.
’Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets ofMadrid, that I question whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those Superstitions: For this, tho’ a very fine City, and adorn’d with Squares, in which there are noble Fountains, and tho’ it has Streets moreover which are very spacious, strait and lightsome, ’tis nevertheless so very nasty, that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern’d: From all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend, wastes away in one Night’s Time, the Air ofMadridis so corrosive: Yet I experienc’d the contrary, and was terribly annoy’d with the Stench of it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets ofMadridis nothing in comparison of what one is forc’d to suffer upon the Days of Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean’d, and then all the Soil being put in Motion, ’tis hardly possible to bear it, especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc’d into fine Dust, the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing that one eats: I heard anItalianPhysician say, he was sure that ’twas scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circumspect and retir’d, to spend Three or Four Years atMadridwithout being attack’d with a Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but theSpaniardsare not at all frighten’d at it, for they say, that in many Families ’tis hereditary. The Doctor said, that every thingthey breath’d, eat or drank, was poison’d by the Nastiness ofMadrid.