[B]"Nordhoff's California."
[B]"Nordhoff's California."
On May 29th we rose at half past 4, and at 6, after taking outside seats, started, with ten other passengers, in a stage waggon, drawn by five horses, on our return journey. Our driveupthe mountains, which was slow and gradual, occupied several hours; but in the afternoon we began to descend them on the other side, when the road became wider and the route less solitary, and at 4 o'clock a cart approached, in which a man and woman were seated. They drew up on one side of the road to let us pass, when, just as our waggon reached the spot, the woman stood up and eagerly called out, "Is that George Müller?" "It is," was the reply. "Then Imustshake hands with you, Sir. I have read your 'Life of Trust,' and it has been agreat blessingto my soul." With this the good woman leaned forward and stretched out her hand; we shook hands also with her husband; but who they were, and whence they came, we knew not, nor was there any time to ask. Her last words were, "Pray for me!" After changing horses twice, towards evening we reacheda district upon level ground, which had been cut up into a vast number of furrows and channels for gold digging, where hundreds of acres had been cleared completely of the precious metal. At 6 o'clock we reached Priest's Hotel, and were afterwards driven at a rapid rate down the steep hill close to it. A ferry boat then conveyed us across the Tuama River whilst seated in the waggon; the horses waded through Wood's Creek, and at last we reached the Garret House, Chinese Camp, where at half past 7 we alighted for the night. The next day we rose at half past 3, and at a quarter before 5 were again "en route." At the Union Hotel, Copperopolis, we arrived in two hours and three-quarters, and at half past 10 reached Milton, from which place we went on immediately by rail to Stockton, where our luggage (which had been telegraphed for) was sent to meet us at the station.
At a quarter past 12 on the same day (May 30th) we left for Sacramento, the capital of California, 48 miles from Stockton, where Mr. Müller preached at one of the Churches in the evening to about 1,000 persons. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, he held another meeting, and in the evening preached, for the third and last time, at Sacramento to a very large audience.
On June 1st, at 2 p.m., we set off by the Central Pacific Railway for Salt Lake City; on the 2nd distributed little books and tracts amongst the passengers, by whom the train was crowded; and at 8 a.m., on June 3rd, reached Ogden,where, branching off for Salt Lake City, the capital of Utah—1,068 miles West of Omaha, and 916 East of San Francisco—we arrived at 11.40 the same morning. "It lies in a great valley, extending close to the Wahsatch Mountains on the North, with more than 100 miles of plains stretching towards the South; beyond which, in the distance, rise snow-covered mountains, the highest of which is 11,400 feet above the level of the sea. The waters of the Great Salt Lake aresosalt, that no living creature can exist in them. The city covers an area of nine square miles, its streets—or roads—are long and very wide; and, as each dwelling has a garden, or orchard, the whole place looks like one large plantation." In the evening, at the Congregational Church, Mr. Müller preached the gospel in this city (which is the great stronghold of Mormonism), in the plainest, clearest, most decided manner; and on the following day had interviews with several Christians.
Before our departure we visited the great Mormon Tabernacle, said to hold 13,000 people. It is of wood, and has 46 pillars of red sandstone, with an immense dome resting on them like a roof; but it did not look large enough to contain more than from 9,000 to 10,000 at the utmost. Lion House, the former residence of Brigham Young, was also pointed out. His body lies buried in a miserable, neglected piece of ground—a sort of back yard—and his grave is covered by a large, flatstone, bearing an inscription; but what the epitaph upon it was, we did not care to ascertain. The residences of his 18 wives are also in the city. From Camp Douglas, a military station which stands upon an eminence outside the town, Salt Lake City appears embowered in trees, and little more than the roofs of the houses are visible.
In the evening Mr. Müller preached at the Methodist Church, where he addressed a large congregation, including several Mormons; and after the service conversed with many of the hearers. Having been told that his ministry was more needed at Salt Lake City, than at almost any other place in theworld, he greatly regretted being unable to hold other meetings; but as our time was limited, and engagements had been made for other places, we could not possibly remain. The morning of June 5th, therefore, was fixed upon for our departure, when we rose at a quarter before 5, and at 7 o'clock left by train for Ogden, 35 miles distant, whence, after engaging a "section" in a Pullman's carriage, we set off, at 10, by the Union Pacific Railway, for Omaha.
The train (a very long one) was full of passengers, and, when seated in the carriage, we heard that a gentleman, an invalid, had died suddenly the night before, whilst travelling on the Central Pacific Railway. After he had retired to his berth, a violent fit of coughing came on, which occasioned the rupture of a blood vessel, and in three minutes he was dead. He was not accompanied byany relative or friend. Some railway officials carried his body immediately into the smoking compartment; but though the circumstance was concealed from the other passengers as much as possible, the sad event soon became generally known. On the 6th we breakfasted at Rock Creek; reached Summit House, Sherman, 8,235 feet above the level of the sea, at half-past one; dined at Cheyenne; and, after travelling for some hours, reached the prairies on which there were a few wild antelopes and immense herds of cattle, followed by men on horseback keeping them together. At 2 o'clock, on June 7th, we reached Tremont, and at 4.30 arrived at Omaha, a journey of 1,032 miles from Ogden. At a quarter before 5 our journey was continued, when, after crossing the Missouri, we went on to Council Bluffs, and there got into a train with an hotel car attached to it, containing a kitchen and a dining-room. On June 8th we rose early, breakfasted at 7 in the dining-room, reached Davenport at 11, and, after crossing the Mississippi, arrived at Rock Island, the other side of the river. Later in the day we crossed the Illinois, and at 4 in the afternoon arrived at Chicago, after a journey of 503 miles from Omaha.
On Sunday morning (the 9th) Mr. Müller preached at the First Congregational Church, to about 1,500 people; and in the evening held a meeting at Mr. Moody's Tabernacle, which seats 3,000. It contained an immense audience, and numbers—including the choir—were on the platform"Hold the fort, for I am coming," was sung with great spirit at the opening of the service, the vast audience joining heartily in the chorus; and after prayer and the reading of the Scriptures, my husband spoke for an hour with much help and earnestness. When the meeting was over, William Howell, an orphan, formerly on Ashley Down, who left in 1860, came up to shake hands with us. He was delighted to meet his early friend and benefactor.
On the followingafternoon, Mr. Müller spoke at Farwell Hall for an hour and a quarter to an audience of about 2,500, including many pastors; after the meeting we shook hands with multitudes, amongst whom were two more Orphans, formerly on Ashley Down, and on the morning of the 11th, we took a drive with some friends through Chicago, when the scene of the great conflagration of October, 1871, was pointed out.
"It had its origin in a small wooden barn or cow-shed, in the Western district of the city, and, the fire gradually increasing, the flames, fanned by a strong westerly wind, at last raged like a furnace, sweeping everything before them; so that stone, iron, brick, and other hard substances were burned up like chaff, the intensity of the heat being indescribable. From the very outset the fire had been completely beyond the control of any human agency, and it was only after it had raged with the utmost fury for upwards of four and twenty hours, that a great storm providentially drenched the city, and stopped theprogress of the flames. The number of buildings destroyed was 17,450, and 98,500 persons were rendered homeless; but the hearts of millions were touched by the catastrophe, and from all parts of the world contributions for the relief of the sufferers were sent in. Three millions and a half of dollars promptly came to hand, and were the means (under God) of saving Chicago from the horrors which usually follow such an awful calamity."
On the afternoon of that day, Mr. Müller preached again at Farwell Hall; and in the evening we attended a "reception," at a gentleman's house, where about 50 Christian friends had been invited to meet us. On the morning of the 12th my husband addressed about 200 pastors and ministers for an hour and a quarter; and in a note from a hearer received afterwards the writer said,—"The meeting this morning was one ofpower. I do not know of better days in the churches and in Farwell Hall than these. The witness our Lord has sent by Mr. Müller is one of our greatest blessings." In the evening my husband preached at Dr. Gibson's Church from the Epistle of Jude, verses 20, 21, and on the following morning spoke (for the last time at Chicago) at Farwell Hall, on the Second Coming of Christ, to nearly 2,000 people, a subject which led many to inquire about this truth, who afterwards obtained light respecting it.
In the afternoon at 5 o'clock, we left by rail for Cleveland, Ohio, 353 miles from Chicago; travelled along theshores of Lake Michigan—a great inland sea, 500 miles in length, and from 90 to 100 miles in breadth; and on June 14th, at 7 a.m., arrived at Cleveland, where Mr. Müller preached six times at the great Tabernacle to immense congregations, occasionally numbering about 3,000. His last address, on June 17th, was upon the Second Coming of the Lord, when he spoke with great help and power. At Cleveland we remained a short time only; for having (when at San Francisco) received an earnest invitation to return to Washington, on account of the blessing which accompanied his ministry during our first visit; on June 18th, at 5 p.m. we left, and after a journey of 524 miles, arrived at Washington the next morning at 9 o'clock. Here Mr. Müller held seven meetings, including services at Lincoln Hall, the Calvary Baptist, Wesley, Fourth Presbyterian, and Lutheran Memorial Churches; and, on Sunday evening, (June 23rd,) at the Metropolitan Church, he preached a farewell sermon from 2nd Tim. iv. 7, 8.
On June 24th we rose at half past 3, left Washington by an early train, and reached Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, at 11 a.m., where we visited the field upon which, on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of July, 1863, the great battle was fought between the Union forces of the Americans under General Meade, and the Confederate army under General Lee, when the latter was defeated with a loss of many thousands of men. "In the National, or Soldiers' Cemeteryon the hill, there is a monument 60 feet high, around which are ranged, in semi-circular slopes, the graves of many who fell during the war. The divisions between the States are marked by alleys and pathways radiating from the monument to the outer circle, the rows of graves being divided by continuous granite blocks, a few inches high, upon which are the name and regiment of each soldier, as far as could be ascertained. Originally about 32,000 corpses were interred in this Cemetery, but eventually the Southern States removed the bodies of their own soldiers and deposited them elsewhere." To look upon this burial ground, literallysownwith the corpses of the slain, was an affecting sight; but Jesus is coming and the resurrection, when "allthat are in the graves shall hear his voice, and shall come forth; they that have done good unto the resurrection of life, and they that have done evil unto the resurrection of damnation." This Cemetery is kept in beautiful order by the Government.
After leaving it, we returned to Gettysburg, and in the evening a meeting was held at the College Church, when Mr. Müller addressed the students at Pennsylvania College, the students of the Theological Seminary, and a large number of other persons for an hour and 20 minutes. On June 25th, we rose at 5, and leaving Gettysburg by the 6.45 train, reached New York the same afternoon, where we remained until Thursday, the 27th, and on theafternoon of that day, at 2 o'clock, sailed in the "Adriatic," (White Star Line,) for Liverpool. On Sunday morning, June 30th, Mr. Müller gave an address from John xiv. 2, 3, to the cabin passengers, ship's officers, and a few steerage passengers in the saloon, and held a conversational meeting likewise in the afternoon. On the following Sunday morning, July 7th, he gave another address in the saloon, a service which closed his labours for that tour. In the course of it he spoke 308 times in public, and we travelled nineteen thousand and fifty miles by land and water altogether. At 3 p.m. we landed at Liverpool, returned the following day to Bristol, and upon arriving in an open carriage at the top of Ashley Hill at half past 4, found a little army of the Orphan boys and girls, with almost all our helpers at the Orphan Houses, waiting to receive us. There, as we slowly drove along, the boys cheered heartily, and the girls waved their handkerchiefs, determined (as a by-stander remarked) to give us "a right royal welcome"; and at the entrance of New Orphan House No. 3, a crowd of children closed around us, with loving, friendly greetings.
After remaining at the Orphan Houses on Ashley Down for eight weeks and three days, (a period which gave Mr. Müller time to attend to business connected with the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and to resume his public ministry in Bristol,) on Sept. 5th, 1878, we went to Dover, crossed over to Calais the next morning, and reached Paris by rail at 6 p.m. On Sunday, the 8th—morning and evening—my husband preached in English at the Chapelle Evangélique, Rue Royale, and held another meeting there on the evening of the 9th. On the following day we left Paris for Dijon, and passed the night there; rose at 4 the next morning; and, after continuing our journey to Neuchâtel, proceeded thence to Berne, where we arrived at 7 o'clock. On the evening of Thursday, Sept. 12th, Mr. Müller preached in German at the Salle Evangélique, which was crowded to overflowing, the lower part of the building, galleries, and staircases being thronged. On the 13th, he held a meeting at the Eglise Française; on the 14th addressed some poor people at a small Institution at Muri, nearBerne; on the 15th, 16th, and 17th, preached at the great Eglise Française to very large congregations; gave an address on the morning of the 18th, at a Seminary near the Fest Hütte to 65 young men who were being trained for teachers; and at 2 p.m. the same day we left by rail for Thun, 18 miles from Berne. From there we drove to Gurzelen, a village on the mountains, three miles from Thun, in a lovely situation near the Alps, where, for the benefit of the poor of that locality, my husband held two meetings at a Vereins Haus, which was crowded with people from the country. On Sept. 19th we returned to Berne, and the following evening attended a social meeting of Christians at "Die Enge," where he gave an address, and afterwards answered some important questions that were put to him. On the afternoon of Sept. 21st he spoke to between 600 and 700 Christian workers—including 300 teachers of different denominations—at the Salle Evangélique; held a meeting on the afternoon of Sunday, the 22nd, at the Fest Hütte, and on the evening of that day preached a farewell sermon, at the Eglise Française, to an immense audience. On this occasion his subject was the Second Coming of the Lord, on which he was enabled to speak with great power, and much to the profit of his hearers, as we heard afterwards. At the close of this meeting, before the benediction, Colonel von Büren rose, and, on behalf of the Christians of Berne, thanked him publicly for his visit to the city; and here,before proceeding any further, it seems desirable to make the following observations:—
Some of the readers of this Narrative may possibly feel inclined to say—"With so much travelling from place to place, so many public meetings, and such continual intercourse with strangers, how does Mr. Müller find time to attend to hisownspiritual welfare? Whence does he obtain refreshment for the inner manhimself? How do matters stand between hisownsoul and Christ?—because persons who are continually engaged in ministering to others, more than any class of individuals that can be mentioned, require divine grace and wisdom for themselves." The reply to such inquiries is this. Through the goodness of the Lord, he is a mangivento the reading of the Scriptures and to prayer. Whether travelling or at rest, a dayneverpasses, without his devoting as much time as possible to the diligent, prayerful study of the word of God. He is a man ofonebook; and that book is the Bible. Besides reading the Scriptures regularly together early in the morning; in the course of the day, whenever there is time, my husband employs it in studying the Bible, in meditation, and in prayer. He waits habitually uponGod, and thus it is, that day by day, his spiritual strength and vigour are renewed. This opportunity is taken, however, of commending him earnestly to the prayers of the Lord's people; whether he may be known or unknown to them personally.
On Sept. 23rd, at 9 in the morning, some sweet singing outside the door of our room announced the unexpected arrival of Dr. Blösch, a party of Orphan girls belonging to the Institution he has founded, and four teachers, who all stood outside in the passage until the German hymn was finished; when a large bouquet of flowers from the gardens of the children was handed in, a wreath of ivy, and an address in German, beautifully written, congratulating Mr. Müller upon the approach of his birthday (on the 27th) and giving him Isaiah liv. 10, as a Scripture portion. These young girls brought a small contribution also from their own little pocket money, for the Orphans on Ashley Down. Their whole visit was of a most touching character. After my husband had spoken to them for a few minutes, they sang another hymn; we then shook hands with them all, and the whole party took leave of us.
On the 24th, we left Berne for Thun, at 10.40 a.m., proceeded thence by steamer to the other end of the lake, and afterwards went on by rail to Interlaken, where we arrived at 2 o'clock. There, at half-past 3, Mr. Müller preached at the English Church in German; but, as the weather was unfavourable, the congregation was very small. On the evening of the following day, however, when he held another meeting at the same Church, the audience was about five times as large as it had been on the previous afternoon. Interlaken is in the vicinity of theglaciers of Grindelwald, the Faulhorn, and the Wengern Alp; and is within a few miles of the waterfalls, Giessbach, on Lake Brientz, and Staubbach in the Valley of the Lauterbrunnen. The Jungfrau also, and other mountains, can be seen from the town. From Interlaken, on the 26th, we went to Thun, the chief town of the Bernese Oberland, where, on that evening and the next, he addressed crowded congregations at the German Methodist Church. On the 28th, by particular invitation, we returned to Gurzelen, where, on Sunday morning (29th), Mr. Müller preached at the village Church to a congregation of country people, some of whom had walked many miles to hear him. This place of worship was a quaint, old-fashioned building. An hour-glass on a stand (intended, probably, to remind the preacher of the flight of time, and to admonish him not to be too long in delivering his discourse) projected conspicuously from the pulpit. In the evening, my husband held a meeting at the Vereins Haus, and there addressed a very crowded congregation.
On Sept. 30th, we went to Neuchâtel, in French Switzerland, where, on Oct. the 1st and 2nd, he preached in German, at "Le Temple," and held a "German-French" meeting at the same place on the 3rd; that is, he occupied the pulpit, and spoke in German, whilst a French pastor, in the desk below, translated his Sermon into French. The congregation was very large, and Monsieur Nagel succeeded admirably with the translation. On the4th, Mr. Müller held a second meeting of the same kind at Le Temple, when he was listened to with the deepest interest and attention; and the following morning a French brother called to congratulate him on the success of his ministry at Neuchâtel, "for"—said he—"Toute la population a été saisie et émue." On Oct. 6th my husband preached at the Salle des Conférences; on the 7th he spoke in English at the Oratoire, and, on our return in the evening, the following letter from one of his French hearers arrived by post.
"Trés Révérend Monsieur le Pasteur Müller de Bristol,—Soyez béni pour le bien que vous m'avez fait! Depuis neuf ans, sans relâche, les plus cruelles epreuves m'ont été dispensées. Il a plu au Seigneur, après des années d'affreuses maladies, de me retirer une mère adorée, femme éminente, puis, un père bien aimé, une s[oe]ur unique, un neveu chéri comme un fils, et d'autres afflictions, et ensuite et en même temps, d'une manière particulierement douleureuse, les trois quarts de ma fortune. Il a plu au Seigneur de m'envoyer coup sur coup, tous les déchirements, toutes les douleurs, toutes les difficultés de la vie, et de me laisser ainsi à l'entrée de la veillesse, dans le plus douleureux isolement. Ma foi, jadis si ferme, défaillait, le découragement m'écrasait; souvent je ne pouvais plus prier, et j'arrivais à un état de mort spirituelle. Soyez béni Monsieur le Pasteur! Il mefallaitvotre parole simple, ferme, concise, énergique, convaincue, ardente, brulante de foi et d'amour, pour meraviver un peu. Soyez béni, cher et venéré Pasteur! J'ai suivi, quoique Suisse Française, toutes vos conférences, et s'il plâit à Dieu, j'irai vous entendre encore demain, au culte allemande, lundi an soir, à la Chapelle Anglaise, et mardi, au dernier sermon allemand. Adieu, cher et venéré Pasteur; que votre Dieu tout puissant, tout bon, vous conserve pour sa gloire, et pour le bien de tous les mal-heureux. Une s[oe]ur sous la croix."
On the evening of the 8th, at "Le Temple," Mr. Müller gave a farewell address to the inhabitants of Neuchâtel, and on the 11th we left for Lausanne, where, on the 13th and 14th, he preached at "Le Temple Allemand," which was crowded in every part. On the 15th, he held an English service at the Chapelle Ecossaise, and on the 16th and 17th, preached in German—with translation into French by Monsieur Duprat—at the Chapelle des Terreaux. The next evening he held another English service at the Chapelle Ecossaise; on the morning of Sunday, the 20th, attended a Brethren's meeting for the breaking of bread, where he gave an address, and in the evening preached again at the Temple Allemand in German. On Oct. 21st he preached in English at the Chapelle du Valentin, and, on the 22nd, in German at the Chapelle de Martheray; upon both occasions with translation into French. On the 23rd we took a drive to the Cimetière de la Sallaz, and visited the tomb of Manuel Matomoros, the well known Spanish brother,so long imprisoned in his native country for Christ's sake, who died at Lausanne some time after his liberation (aged 32) from the effects of ill-treatment received during his confinement. The grave of the departed one—situated in a beautiful part of the Cemetery—was surrounded by an iron railing, and covered by a flat stone monument, raised a little above the surface of the ground, on which the following inscription in Spanish could easily be read:—
MANUEL MATAMOROSDEMALAGA.8 Octobre, 1834. 31 Julio, 1866."Porque yo me resuelvo en que lo que en este tiempose padece no es de comparar con la gloria venidera queen nosotros ha de ser manifestada."—Rom. viii. 18."Y nos gloriamos en la esperanza de la gloria de Dios."—Rom. v. 2."Por la ovra de Cristo ha llegado hasta la muerte."—Fili (Phil.) ii. 30.
MANUEL MATAMOROSDEMALAGA.8 Octobre, 1834. 31 Julio, 1866.
"Porque yo me resuelvo en que lo que en este tiempose padece no es de comparar con la gloria venidera queen nosotros ha de ser manifestada."—Rom. viii. 18.
"Y nos gloriamos en la esperanza de la gloria de Dios."—Rom. v. 2.
"Por la ovra de Cristo ha llegado hasta la muerte."—Fili (Phil.) ii. 30.
The tomb of this beloved brother was an interesting object, and the Cemetery, in which it was, looked beautiful; for, although the autumn was so far advanced, roses, and other flowers were in full bloom. That evening Mr. Müller preached at the Presbyterian Church, and on the 24th, at the Temple Allemand, he gave a farewelladdress; when, at the close of the service, Pastor Wagner—in the name of the Evangelical Alliance—thanked him, in the presence of the whole congregation, for his labours at Lausanne. Before our departure we saw a lime-tree at Prilly, measuring 14 yards round the trunk, which was said to be 1,000 years old; but, though the branches were large, and its circumference was great, it looked small compared with the "Big Trees" of California.
On the afternoon of Oct. 25th, we left Lausanne and embarked in a steamer at Ouchy (a small port on the Lake of Geneva) for Vevey. There Mr. Müller preached at the German Church in the evening; but, in consequence of a heavy thunderstorm and the torrents of rain which fell, the congregation was very small. On the following Sunday morning we attended a Brethren's meeting for the breaking of bread, where he spoke in English, with translation into French; in the evening he preached at the German Church a second time, and on the 28th held his last meeting at Vevey, at the same church.
The next day we went on to Montreux, where he preached that evening, and the next morning at the German Church. On the morning of Oct. 31st, and Nov. 1st, and the afternoon of Sunday, Nov. 3rd, at the Eglise Ecossaise, he addressed large congregations of visitors staying at Montreux, Bex, Aigle, Clarens, Vernex, and Vevey, and, on the evening of the 3rd, preached at the Eglise Libre inGerman, for the last time at Montreux. This town—sometimes called the Nice of Switzerland—is generally considered the most beautiful on the Lake of Geneva; and the Dent du Midi, the lake scenery, and the mountain ranges round it, are very grand. Before our departure, we went through the Castle of Chillon, upon the margin of the lake, which is built in the style of the middle ages, and is now used as a prison for the whole Canton de Vaud. Its dungeons—hewn in the foundation rock, and extending 100 yards beneath the Castle, where, in the 14th and 15th centuries, thousands of Jews were decapitated, and other cruelties committed—are shown to strangers.
After leaving Montreux, we visited Bex, Aigle, and Yverdun, at each of which places Mr. Müller held meetings; and, on Nov. 9th, went on to Geneva, where a series of services had been arranged for him by the Evangelical Alliance. There he preached at the Salle de la Réformation, the Casino, the Eglise Rive Droite, the Eglise Lutherienne, the German Swiss Church, the Lutheran Church, the English-American Church, and the Oratoire de l'Eglise Libre, to very large congregations. On the 18th, at the Salle de la Réformation, a meeting was held expressly for pastors, theological professors of the University, and theological students, whom he addressed for an hour, and afterwards replied to questions that were asked. Whilst at Geneva, we visited the Protestant Cathedral Church of St. Peter, built in 1024, where Calvin used topreach; and saw the house in which he resided, and another in the Rue des Chanoines, where he died. The Bibliothèque Publique, founded by Bonivard in 1551, contains 70,000 volumes, Calvin's manuscripts, and some autographs and portraits of celebrated persons. There also, fastened to a high stand, was "La Bible Vulgate" of the 10th century, a ponderous volume,writtenby the monks throughout with pen and ink. During our walks at Geneva, the Mont Blanc range, in French Savoy, about 45 miles distant, formed a conspicuous and beautiful object in the landscape, the highest point of which is 15,780 feet above the level of the sea. On Nov. 20th, at the Oratoire de l'Eglise Libre, Mr. Müller held his last meeting at Geneva, and spoke in English upon that occasion, with translation into French, by Professor de la Harpe.
On the morning of the 21st, at half past 10, we left by rail for Lyons, France; and, after a journey of 130 miles, reached our destination in the afternoon at half past 4. Exactly opposite the windows of the hotel to which we went, on a very high hill, called La Fourvière, the other side of the river, stood the Church of Notre Dame, with a gilded statue of the Virgin, 20 feet high, standing on its cupola, with arms outstretched; for Lyons is considered by the Papists to be under the protection of Mary, and as especially—"Consacrée à la sainte vierge."
Soon after our arrival, a German pastor called, and gave us an interesting account of his labours at Lyons duringthe preceding 27 years. This large, beautiful city, the second in France, is a stronghold of Popery; and, when he first arrived, no Protestant services could be held there; but after a terrible struggle to obtainsomereligious liberty, through the influence of the British ambassador, permission to hold Protestant meetings was at last granted by the Government,providedthe preaching should always be in German, and never in French. For the Protestants to derive any benefit, however, from this permission, wasextremelydifficult, on account of the furious opposition of the Romish priests, "who (said he) if they had been able to do so, would gladly have burned me at the stake;" but now, as their animosity is somewhat less fierce, French and German Protestant services are regularly held. The population of Lyons—about 350,000—is divided (this pastor further stated) into two classes, one half of whom consists of bigoted Papists, and the other of Infidels and Rationalists. There is, however, averysmall Protestant community in this city, amongst whom a few real Christians are to be found.
On Nov. 22nd, Mr. Müller preached at the Chapelle Evangélique, Rue de la Lanterne, in English, with translation into French by Monsieur Monod. Many assembled to hear him; the presence and power of the Holy Spirit were felt; and it was a happy meeting. On the morning of Sunday (the 24th), he preached at the German Church—a small, insignificant building in a neighbouring street;and in the afternoon held another meeting at the Chapelle Evangélique, where, considering the character of the population, the congregation was very large. Before our departure, we went to the top of La Fourvière to see the prospect from the summit, which embraces the whole town and the surrounding neighbourhood for many miles. "Lyons, which is the chief manufacturing city of France, is situated at the junction of the rivers Saone and Rhone, the former of which is crossed by nine bridges, the latter by eight. It contains upwards of 10,000 establishments for the manufacture of silk, which employ 120,000 looms, support 140,000 persons, and produce annually a supply of goods valued at nearly four hundred millions of francs."
On Nov. 25th, at the Chapelle Evangélique, my husband preached for the last time at Lyons. The next morning we rose at 5; at a quarter before 7, left for Marseilles, and, after travelling for many miles through the Valley of the Rhone, reached our destination at half past 3. On the 27th, Mr. Müller preached at the Temple Evangélique, an "église nationale," where the congregation was large, and included several pastors and members of the Consitory. The service did not begin until half past 8. On the following evening he preached again at the Temple; addressed the children of Miss Renger's school in French on the afternoon of the 30th; and, on the evening of that day, and the afternoon of Dec. 1st, preached again in Germanat Le Temple. On the evening of the 1st he gave a farewell address, in English, at the Temple Evangélique, and on Monday morning, Dec. 2nd, we left for Nismes by express at 10.45.
As this town is a "Protestant centre," my husband preached that evening at the Chapelle Wesléyenne to a crowded audience; and the following afternoon a Christian gentleman conducted us through the town, to point out the Roman antiquities for which Nismes is famous. The principal building, the Amphitheatre—erected as long ago as froma.d.138 to 160—is a very remarkable ruin. It is in the form of a vast oval or elipse, and contains tiers of stone seats one above the other, rising around it to a considerable height. In the central area, conflicts between gladiators, and combats between condemned criminals and wild beasts, formerly took place; and here many persecuted disciples of the Lord Jesus Christ were torn in pieces by lions and other savage animals that were let loose upon them. The caverns, where prisoners were confined, and some dens in which the wild beasts were shut up, are still in existence. This Amphitheatre is 400 feet long, 303 wide, and 64 high, and was large enough to seat 25,000 people. When all its antecedents are remembered, a fearful interest attaches to the place.
During our short stay at Nismes, Mr. Müller held other meetings, which were conducted at the Chapelle Wesléyenne, the Eglise Libre, and at the house of a Christian gentleman residing in the town. Before our departure, we visited some rocks and stone quarries, about two miles distant, where, during a persecution of the Protestants in the reign of Louis XIV., the little Church of Christ at Nismes used to assemble for religious worship, because its members were not permitted to hold meetings in the town.
On Dec. 7th we left Nismes for Montpellier, where Mr. Müller preached three times at the Eglise Reformée Independente, attended a prayer meeting, where he gave an address, and held a conversational meeting at the house of a Christian lady. In this town, just in front of our hotel, was a piece of ground—now a large public garden—where, about the year 1720, pastors were hung, simply because they were Protestants. Other servants of Christ, after their arms and legs had been broken with a bar of iron, were left to suffer excruciating pain, until a final blow on the chest—given as a "coup de grace"—terminated their agonies. "We have been more persecuted" (said a gentleman who related these particulars—a descendant of the Huguenots) "than any other race of human beings under Heaven." How faint a conception have Christians of the present day, who live in the comfortable, easy circumstances to which most of us are accustomed, of the tribulation endured by disciples of the Lord Jesus, in years long gone by, and even as recently as the last century! The Christians of Montpellier were able to relate numberless instances of the most infamous and wanton cruelty,practised upon the Huguenots, before, during, and after the reign of Louis XIV.
On Dec. 12th, we rose at 5, left Montpellier by rail at 7 o'clock, and went through Cette to Narbonne, from which place—after changing trains—we proceeded on our journey; and at 2 o'clock reached Perpignan, the chief town of the Pyrénées Orientales, at no great distance from the Spanish frontier. The climate of Perpignan is generally mild, and in summer is very hot; but just then wintry winds were sweeping over the snow-covered heights of the Pyrenees, which made the atmosphere unusually cold. This town is overlooked by a strong Citadel, and contains several houses built in the Spanish style. Mont Canigou, 9,140 feet high, is in the distance. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, we left Perpignan, and our journey was continued. For many miles long ranges of the Pyrenees were on our right; and on the left, the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean, were occasionally so close, that a stone might have been thrown into them from the railway carriage; and after travellingthroughthe mountains, by means of numerous tunnels, we—for the first time—found ourselves in Spain. At Portbou, on the frontier, the usual Custom House examination took place, and afterwards, as we advanced into the country, the costumes of the people and the style of the buildings became more and more Spanish in appearance. Here, as in the South of France, there were vines and olive trees innumerable, and aloes, either singly or in hedges, were growingwild in the fields or by the roadside. As the train stopped at nearly every station, our progress was but slow; but at half past 8 we arrived at Barcelona, where two brethren were kindly waiting to receive, and to conduct us to the Fonda Las Cuatro Nationes. There we took possession of two small front rooms at the top of the house, with a south aspect and stone floors. The sitting-room contained an open fireplace, in which we occasionally had small fires, made of the dried roots of olive trees; but the weather being generally mild and genial, they were not often needed. The street below our rooms—one of the leading thoroughfares of Barcelona—was crowded day and night.
The following morning a party of English friends, labouring in Spain, called and welcomed us to the country most affectionately. On Sunday morning, Dec. 15th, we attended a meeting for the breaking of bread, held at a schoolroom in Calle San Gabriel, Gracia, where, at the commencement of the service, a poor blind brother prayed, some portions of Scripture were read by one of the brethren, and afterwards Mr. Müller spoke for half an hour, with translation into Spanish by Mr. Payne. The breaking of bread followed, a hymn was sung, and the meeting was closed with prayer. We then shook hands with our Spanish brethren and sisters, and, amongst them, with the blind man just referred to, who, pointing upwards with his finger, said in Spanish, "We shall all speak one languagethere." Whilst talking his face was lighted up with smiles,and he made us understand that he rejoiced greatly at our visit. He was very poorly clothed, but a friend remarked, "He is rich in faith, and has been a noble witness for Christ by reading the Scriptures aloud, in raised type, in the streets and public walks of Barcelona."
On the evening of that day, Mr. Müller preached, with Spanish interpretation, at another large schoolroom in the city. On the following Tuesday afternoon, at the house of a Wesleyan minister, he held a meeting for English Christian Workers in Spain, and addressed the party there assembled, with reference to their labours, for upwards of an hour. Conversation respecting the Lord's work in that dark Popish land, was freely entered into afterwards, and the meeting was of so profitable a character, that, though it had lasted two hours and a half, no one was willing to leave, until a promise had been given that another should be held the following afternoon. The next day, accordingly, all met again at the same time and place, and continued for two hours and a half together. On Thursday morning, Dec. 19th, we accompanied Mr. Payne to visit four of the Spanish Day Schools, which are entirely supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution. They are in Barcelonetta (or little Barcelona), a poor part of the city, where, on the first floor of one of the houses, we found two schools (one of big, and the other of little boys) assembled. One master, a converted Spaniard, was present; but the other, in consequence of indisposition, was unableto attend that day. The boys were all quiet and orderly in their behaviour; and, after the younger ones from the other schoolroom had come in, Mr. Müller—with the help of Mr. Payne as a translator—began speaking to them as follows:—"My dear children, I love you all very much, and pray for you every day. I long from my inmost soul to meet every one of you in Heaven; but, in order that you may go to that happy place, as poor, lost, guilty sinners, you must put your trust in the blessed Lord Jesus Christ, who was punished in our room and stead; for His bloodalonecan cleanse us from our sins." After preaching the gospel further to them, he related a few particulars about the Orphan boys on Ashley Down, and mentioned thatsomeof them, about the same age as those he was addressing, were true disciples of the Lord Jesus Christ, who, at an early age, had been led to trust in Him wholly as their Saviour. It was most interesting to look upon these poor Spanish children—gathered out from the mass of popery and infidelity around—and to know that they were brought habitually under Christian influence and teaching. There were about 150 of them, and their parents were all either Papists or Infidels. Two schools for girls, under the same roof, downstairs, were close at hand. The room for the elder girls was large, but it was below the level of the street, and a short flight of five steps led down to it. When the children were seated, Mr. Müller spoke to them from a low platform; afterwards they sang a hymn, and then apretty little girl, about six years old, with black hair and very bright dark eyes, was mounted on a form, when she repeated the 128th Psalm in Spanish with great ease, and apparently without missing a word. Another followed with the 24th Psalm, and then an older girl, of about 13, repeated a long Spanish poem, referring to the love of Christ, His death, etc., in a firm, clear voice, without the slightest hesitation or inaccuracy. She could have gone on with a great deal more; and the other children, too, were ready with portions of Scripture and with hymns; but our time did not allow us to hear any further recitation. Close to the large room was a smaller one, devoted to a school for Infant Girls; an interesting company oflittlechildren, who understood the Catalan dialect only. Mr. Payne's Spanish had therefore to be translated into Catalan by the governess, a second interpretation, and in this way they were told that the kind gentleman from England, who was speaking, loved them, cared for them, and was glad to see their bright, merry, little faces. We gave them a text also, "The blood of Jesus Christ His Son cleanseth us from all sin," to carry home to their parents. Thus ended our visit to these schools, a work so blessed and important, that we hope, by prayer, long to hold up the hands of those who are engaged in it. In the afternoon, at the house of the Wesleyan minister, Mr. Müller held a third meeting for Christian Workers, and on the evening of that day preached at the Wesleyan Church. The nextmorning, at 10 o'clock, we visited two more of the schools, supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and went first to the boys who were on the ground floor. They first of all sang a hymn; and, after Mr. Müller had addressed them, answered several questions asked by the master, and repeated portions of Scripture with great ease and readiness. The girls' school upstairs was next visited, where we inspected the children's writing, and their needlework. They excel in penmanship; and articles of needlework, beautifully made by them, were on sale for their own benefit. This room contained also a small but interesting school of Infant Girls. In the evening my husband preached again at the Wesleyan Chapel, and, on Dec. 21st, we inspected the San Gabriel schools, where two sheets of texts in ornamental writing, beautifully executed, one from the boys and the other from the girls, were presented to us. We visited a small school of Infant Girls also conducted at the same place. This visit closed our inspection of the ten Barcelona day-schools, supported entirely by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, which were all in a most satisfactory condition.
In the afternoon we walked up Mont Juich, which overlooks the Mediterranean and the whole of Barcelona and the neighbourhood. This city is situated in a beautiful and highly-cultivated country, and is the capital of Catalonia. It is a place of great trade, carrying on various manufactures, and has some fine squares and promenades;but the streets, generally speaking, are narrow, with very high houses that exclude the air and sunshine.
On Sunday morning, Dec. 22nd, Mr. Müller gave an address at a meeting for the breaking of bread, held in the upper schoolroom, in Calle Fernandina; and in the evening preached in German at a Chapel belonging to Mr. A. Luis Empaytaz, who translated for him. On the evening of the 23rd, he preached at the English Episcopal Church, but the congregation was very small; for in the whole of Barcelona there were not more than about 120 English persons altogether. On the afternoon of the 24th he attended a meeting for prayer and exhortation at the house of the Wesleyan minister, and gave an address again to Christian Workers; preached in the evening at the Fernandina schoolroom, and, on the morning of Christmas Day, held a meeting at the Chapel belonging to Mr. Empaytaz, where he preached in German, without translation. On the afternoon of that day, at a tea-meeting at the San Gabriel schoolroom, Gracia, he gave an address; and afterwards a letter in Spanish, from many of the pupils then present (who formerly attended the schools of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution), was read, thanking him for his visit to Barcelona, and expressing their grateful acknowledgments for the education they had received. Some of these young men were studying at the University of Barcelona, and others were engaged elsewhere in various useful occupations. A translation of this letter into German wasthen handed in, and soon after 7 the meeting was brought to a close.
On Dec. 28th we rose at 5, and at half past 6 were accompanied to the station by several Christian friends, who kindly came to take leave of us before our departure for Saragossa. At 7 o'clock we left Barcelona, and travelled with two Spaniards, to each of whom we gave a Spanish Gospel and some tracts, which were thankfully accepted, and read with great attention. At 2 o'clock the passengers alighted to dine, at Lerida; but we walked up and down the platform and gave away some tracts, when in a moment a crowd of third-class passengers surrounded us, who all pressed forward, eagerly desiring to obtain tracts or gospels for themselves. The few we had were distributed immediately; but so anxious were the applicants to obtain oneeach, that they followed us to the railway carriage and lingered about the door. In a few minutes other tracts were found and handed out, but, fearing to attract attention and that our actions might be watched by Romish priests, we held up our empty hands to show that we had nothing more to give. The poor people were loth, however, to depart, and waited until the last moment, thrusting their hands in at the window, with the hope of receiving either a gospel or a tract. At half past 2 we left Lerida, and after a journey of 228 miles, at a quarter to 9 p.m., reached Saragossa, where, at the Fonda de las Cuatro Nationes, we found suitable accommodation. Thefollowing morning (Sunday, Nov. 29th) a meeting was held at Mr.Gulick'sChurch, when Mr. Müller preached, with translation by the pastor, and in the afternoon addressed the Sunday School children at the same place. At the beginning of the service they chanted the 23rd Psalm, and, at the close, sang a hymn, of which the following words are a translation of the first verse:—