It may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time in this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in the fifth and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of Scotland, and other parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of Wales, to avoid the Saxon sword. Any person who may be desirous of visiting the old British Castle of Dolydd Helen, may take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near the foot of that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most distant places. This fortress is situated on a high rock, precipitous on one side and insulated; it consists of two square Towers, one forty feet by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by twenty; each had formerly three floors. This was founded by one of our Welsh Princes, but we are ignorant of its origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his sonLlewelyn the Great, who began his reign in the time of Richard the first. Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and who was brought up at Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the Inclosures belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed by his successor. Before that time,Howel ap Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a noted outlaw, resided here. As soon as it came into the possession of Meredydd, he removed from his habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the County) to this Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred. If I live in my own house in Eifionydd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or be killed by them.” The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd occasioned perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti. This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies of the most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they amounted to seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armolet coat, a good steel cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and arrows; many of them also had horses, and chasing slaves, which were ready to answer the cry on all occasions. He founded the strong house of Pen nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle. He removed the Church, which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security; for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong guard, and another of twenty tall Archers to attend him, whenever he went to Church, besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give notice of the approach of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525, and left behindhim twenty-three legitimate, and three natural children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey of Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument commemorating such of the family as were buried in it. After proceeding so far, many persons may feel inclined to visit Llanrwst, the rout to which we have before described, not only on account of its celebrated Bridge, built by Inigo Jones, but in order to visit the ancient Monuments within the Gwydir Chapel, of which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been given to the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy, who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native artist of genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support of every friend to his country.
We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed from thence to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called (though very improperly) the Devil’s Bridge,[149]about a mile distant; the first part of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards along the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains approach so close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent to roll over its stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labour, impending over the water; the sceneryis the most magnificent that can be imagined: the mountains rise to very uncommon height, and oppose to us nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high as the eye can reach. Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the poor goat to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft of verdure, where, without possibility of return, it must remain to perish, after it has finished the dear-bought repast. The Bridge terminates the pass, and consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and supported on each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract, where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surmount the heights. Here had been a Royal weir, in the Reign of Henry IV. which was then rented by Robert ap Meredydd. It probably belonged, in old times, to our natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable privilege, as we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with one by his Royal Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote a Poem to console him on his disappointment in finding one morning an empty weir, which probably in those times was very seldom the case:
Elphin deg, taw ath wyloNa chabled neb yr eiddoNi wna les drwg obeithio, &c.Elphin, fair as roseate morn,Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.See Pennant’s Tour.
Elphin deg, taw ath wyloNa chabled neb yr eiddoNi wna les drwg obeithio, &c.
Elphin, fair as roseate morn,Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.
See Pennant’s Tour.
Not far from this Bridge is shewn a stone, by the road side, called Rhys Goch o Eryri’s chair, where it is said he used to sit and compose his Poems; and not far from Meillionen, in this Parish, was discovered in 1784, a curious Shield; supposed to be British. There is an excellent road from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tremadoc, along the Western Banks of the Glaslyn, the distance about five miles; as also over the Bridge to Tan y Bwlch and Festiniog, which is about seven or eight.
We shall now return once more to Carnarvon, and proceed nearly along the Sea Coast, round the Promontory of Lleyn.—We have already conducted the stranger as far as the small Bridge (Pont Afon Rhyd), where the road branches off for Llanllyfni; having proceeded about a mile further, observe on the right Mount Hazel, the seat of the Rev. Glynne Bodvel Lewis, and between it and the sea Llandwrog Church, where there are several handsome Monuments, to the memory of the Wynne’s of Glynn Llivon, particularly that of Sir John Wynn, (grandfather of the present Lord Newborough,) who built that house, which is now much neglected, and greatly out of repair, owing to the minority of the proprietor. Glynn is on the left of the road, and near the little river Llifon, issuing from the CilgwynMountains.CilminDroed-ddu, or Kilmin with theblack foot, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, and nephew to Merfryn Frych, Prince of Wales, slain 841, was the founder of this family, and is said to have had his residence near this spot; they bear, in allusion to the name of their Ancestor, a man’s legcoupe a la cuisse, sable: he is said to have injured his leg in some dangerous encounter, and that it became discoloured, and that he continued lame in consequence of this unfortunate circumstance. Glynn Llifon came into possession of the late Sir John Wynn, by the marriage of his father, Thomas Wynn, Esq. of Boduan, in Lleyn, with Frances, second daughter to John Glynn, Esq. of Glynn Llifon.—The Glynns of Lleiar, and Plas Newydd, near Glynn Llifon, were branches of this family: the latter afterwards became the property of the Owens of Bodowen, in Anglesey. The principal Roman encampment, in this neighbourhood, is Dinas Dinlle, situated upon the verge of the Irish Channel, and almost in the centre of Carnarvon Bay; the Western part of it is washed by all the higher tides, and it is not more than ten or fifteen yards above the sea at any other time; it not only commands the Bay itself, its Creeks and Harbours, but has also a boundless prospect towards the Main Ocean, or Irish Channel, anciently called Mare Vergivium, and in Welsh, Môr Werydd, insomuch that no Vessel can passto the Southward, without being observed by those who keep a good look out at their station. The following Roman and British Posts and Encampments, being not far distant from the road, may be conveniently visited by the curious Tourist, as he proceeds on his journey.—Many of them appear to have been out-posts and appendages to the principalDinas’s, and to have had a regular connection and communication withSegontium:
1. Dinas Dinoethwy, near Pont Newydd, now the residence of Captain Jones.—Length, 180 paces; Breadth, 60; South side slope, 20; North ditto, 30.
2. Hen Gastell, on the brook Carrog, half a mile South of the above, and in the Parish of Llanwnda.—Length, 40 paces; Breadth 30.
3. Dinas Efrog, or Franog, near Collfryn, in Llandwrog.—Length, 70 paces; Breadth, 30.
4. Dinas y Prif, hot far distant from the last, a Square Fort, 50 yards by 50.
5. Craig y Ddinas, a considerable Fortification, on the River Llyfni, a little to the N.W. of Lleiar.—Length, from N. to S. 120 yards; Ditto from E. to W. 90 yards; Slope of the Inner Rampart, on the North side, 10 yards; Ditto of the Outer ditto, 8 yards; Slope on the Sooth side, 40 yards.
6. Caer Ffridd, a Stone Fort, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog, not far from Glynn.
7. Bwlan, a fortified eminence, near the same place.
8. Brynn y Gorseddau, an eminence where there are some Druidical Remains.
9. Carnedd Angharad, a Grave in Glynn Park, North of the house.
10. Bedd Gwennen, another Grave, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog.
11. Bettws Gwenrhyw, the ruins of an old family Chapel, belonging to Glynn.
12. Muriau Gwilym Ddu, on Tyddyn Tudur Land, the ruins of the habitation of the old Bard of that name.
13. Talwrn yr Arch, on Bodaden Land, and behind that house, on Rhos Tryfan Common, were visible, some years ago, several detached parts of an old Roman Road.
Llandwrog is a large extensive Parish, and contains about 10,000 Acres of Land; the resident population, in 1801, was 1175. The Church is dedicated to St. Twrog; it is a Rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop, and is valued in the King’s Books at £11. 11s.5½d.—Dinas Dinlle is in this Parish, the Roman Road from which to Segontium, is uncommonly interesting, as it is carried chiefly over a flat marsh, once a morass, and broken only in one part by a river, the ford over which is at this day calledRhyd y Pedestri; but Rhyd y Equestri, which is mentioned Mr. Rowlands, in his History of Anglesey, is now scarcely known.—Many Roman Coins have been discovered here, particularly those of the EmperorsGallienus,Tetricus Senior,Tetricus Cæsar,Carausius, andAlectus.
After passing Glynn, we cross the Llifon, and about two miles further the Llyfni, a rapid Stream, flowing out of Llynn Nanlle, and soon afterwards arrive atClynnog, a neat pleasant Village, beautifully situated on a plain, near the Sea shore. There is a very handsome venerable looking old Church, which has greatly the appearance of a Cathedral; it is built in form of a cross: the length, from East to West, is about one hundred and thirty-eight feet, and from North to South, seventy. Near the Altar are three neat Stalls, divided by pillars supporting Gothic Arches, the seats of the officiating Priests;—the Monumentsare not numerous, there is one however to William Glynn de Lleiar, with his figure and those of his wife and seven children, another to his son in law George Twisleton, Esq. ofAula Barrowin Yorkshire, and in right of his wife of Lleiar; he is generally supposed to be the same withColonelTwisleton, who was an active officer under Cromwell, and took the gallant Sir John Owen, of Clenenney, prisoner.—Adjoining to the Church, is the Chapel of St. Beuno; the passage to it is a narrow vault, covered with large flat stones, and of far greater antiquity than either Church, or Chapel, which seem nearly coeval. The reader will not be displeased to see the following extract from Leland, respecting this venerable old Fabrick:—“Clunnock Vawr, yn Arvon, in the Commot of Uwch Gurvay, is a great Parish, and the fairest Church in all Caernarvonshire, and is better than Bangor, is 15 miles beyond it, and about the same distance as that town from the shore.—Clunnock Vawr was some time a Monastery of White Monks, suppressed many years ago, but the original of this Monastery was by St. Beuno, of whom mention is made in St. Winifrede’s Life. The White Monks were of a newer foundation. Gwytheint, uncle to one of the Princes of North Wales, was the first giver of Clunnock Village and place to Benow. The Church that is now there, with cross isles, is almost as big as St. David’s, but it is of a newwork; the old Church, where St. Benow lieth, is hard by the new.” The Chapel was probably built after Leland had visited the place, in the room of the old Church, which might have fallen to ruin. In the middle of the Chapel was the tomb of the Saint, plain and altar shaped, but it was in a great measure demolished, about 20 years ago, when some workmen were employed by the late Lord Newborough, to dig in search of the Saint’s bones. Votaries were wont to have great faith in him, and did not doubt but that by means of a night’s lodging on his tomb, a cure would be found for all diseases; it was customary to cover it with rushes, and leave on it till morning sick children, after making them first undergo ablution, in the neighbouring holy well. St. Beuno, after he had assumed the Monastic habit, founded a Convent here in 616.—Cadvan, King of North Wales, was his great Patron, and promised him much Land; his son, Cadwallon, performed the promise, and received from the Saint a golden Sceptre, worth Sixty Cows; the land was afterwards claimed, in behalf of a little infant, and his title proved good,—the King refuses either to give other Land in lieu, or to resign the present, Beuno cursed him and went away, but was appeased by Gwrddeint, first cousin to the King, who overtook him, and gave the Town of Celynnog, for ever, to God and St. Beuno, for his soul’s sake, and that ofthe wicked Cadwallon. Long after his time, the Carmelites, or White Monks, had here an establishment; they were however suppressed, sometime before the Lincoln Taxation, in the year 1291, as the Church was then Collegiate, consisting of five portionists or prebendaries, and it so continued to the Dissolution. The Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £24. is annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the Vicarage, which is discharged, and valued at £6. is in the gift of the Bishop; here is an excellent Vicarage House, built by the late Vicar, the Rev. John Williams. Under the article Tiboeth, in Dr. Davies’s Welsh-Latin and Latin-Welsh Dictionary, we have an account of a curious old M.S.: which was preserved in this Church, calledLlyfr BeunoSant, said to have been written by Twrog, and seen here by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trefriw, in 1594.—This curious Relic, which has been missing many years, is said to have been discovered lately by Mr. Edward Williams, (aliasIolo Morganwg).—There is a tradition, that an Ancient British Town, situated near this place, calledCaer Arianrhod, was swallowed up by the Sea, the ruins of which, it is said, are still visible, during neap tides, and in fine weather. Many of the Kings, and principal inhabitants of the Country, appear to have been benefactors to the original religious establishment at this place: Cadwaladergave Grayanog,—Tegwared gave Porthamel,—Cadell bestowed Kilcourt,—Prince Mervin, Carnguwch,—Cadwgan ap Cynfelyn, Bodweiliog and Bodvel, in Lleyn,—Idwal endowed it with Penrhos and Clynnog Fechan, in Anglesey, and many others, which may be seen in Dugdale.—The offerings of calves and lambs, which happen to be born with theNôd Beuno, mark of St. Beuno, (a certain natural mark in the ear,) have now nearly ceased; they used to be brought to the Church on Trinity Sunday, the anniversary of the Saint, and delivered to the Church Wardens, who were accustomed to sell and account for them, and put the value into a great Chest, calledCyff Beuno, made of one piece of oak, secured with three locks, from which circumstance the Welsh in these parts have a proverb, for attempting any difficult thing, “you may as well try to break St. Beuno’s Chest.” The little money resulting from the sacred Beasts, or casual offerings, were either applied to the relief of the poor, or in aid of repairs. There is a curious antique Chalice, preserved amongst the Communion Plate, with the following Inscription, on the lid or cover:
Tu Nazarenus Rex JudeorumFili Dei, miserere mei.
Tu Nazarenus Rex JudeorumFili Dei, miserere mei.
Those who are curious in Druidical Antiquities, may see a very uncommon Cromlech, on the Tenement of Bachwen, about half a mile from this place, between the road and the sea. Theinclination of the upper stone is to the West, on its surface are numbers of small shallow holes, with two or three larger than the rest, possibly for some purpose of augury; at thirty paces distance, is an upright stone, placed, as is supposed, to mark the limits of approach to the people, while the rites were performing by theDruid Priest. On the left, as we proceed towards the pass or defile, between the mountains, are two lofty conical hills, called Gern Goch, and Gern Ddu; and, on the right, are those well known by the name of Rivals (yr Eifl[159]). This Bwlch, or Pass, now called Bwlch Llanaelhaiarn, is supposed to be the ancient Bwlch Dau Fynydd, frequently mentioned as the scene of many a bloody battle. Near this small Church we quit the Pwllheli road, and turn to the right towards Nevin; but before we leave this celebrated mountain, we shall take an opportunity of examining Tre’r Ceiri and Vortigern’s Valley; of both which we have a long, interesting, and circumstantial account in Pennant’s Tour.—It is very probable that the Districts of Lleyn and Eifionydd, served as a secure retreat to the Britons in ancient times, as most of the hills and eminences in both are strongly fortified, the names of some of which are subjoined: Carn Madrynand Carn Boduan,—Moel Garn Guwch,—The Rivals, Tre’r Ceiri,—Moel Ben Tyrch, between that and Penmorva,—Gaer Tyddyn Mawr,—Castell Gwgan, remarkable for a small circular entrenchment; and Pen y Gaer.—To these many others might be added, but we are reminded that neither our confined limits nor the nature of the work, will admit of very detailed or circumstantial descriptions of either these or any other ancient fortifications, we can therefore only touch on these subjects very superficially, and throw out a few hints as we proceed along.
Tre’r Ceiri.—Across a hollow, from one summit of the Rivals (Eifl) to the other, extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a wall, which effectually block up the pass; and near this place, on the summit of these hills, is a most perfect and regularly fortified British Post, called Tre’r Caerau, the Town of Fortresses, or perhaps Tre’r Ceiri, the Town of the Giants. The most accessible side is defended by three walls; the lowest is very imperfect, the next tolerably entire, and has in it the grand entrance; this wall, in one part, points upwards towards the third, and runs round the edges of the top of the hill; the second wall unites with the first, which runs into a point, reverts and joins the highest, in a place where the hill becomes inaccessible: the facing on the two upper walls are very entire, especially that of the uppermost; they arelofty, and exhibit from below a grand and extensive front; the space on the top is an irregular area, part is steep and part flat, and is covered with heath, which affords shelter to a few red grouse;—the whole is almost filled with cells.—To be seen with advantage, the station should be taken from the summit, about which the cells (which are the foundations of the huts of the soldiers,) are very distinct, and disposed with much art: about the middle is a square place, fenced with stores, a sort ofPrætorium, surrounded with two rows of cells; numbers are also scattered about the plain, and others again are contiguous to the wall, all along the inside. The fortifications on Pen-maen-mawr bear a great similarity to the mode of defence adopted on this strong Post. The cells are mostly perfect, of various forms, round, oval, oblong, and square; some of the round are fifteen feet in diameter, of the oblong, thirty feet in length, with long entrances, regularly faced with stone; all of them, when inhabited, were no doubt well protected from the weather, by roofs covered with thatch and sod. The upper wall was in many places fifteen feet high on the outside, and often sixteen feet broad; it consisted of two parallel and contiguous parts, one higher than the other, serving as a parapet to the lower, which seemed to have its walk, like that at Chester; there was in one place a cell in the thickness of the wall,or perhaps a sally port, in part stopped by the falling in of the stones. There is an excellent plan of this encampment in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. We shall now descend from these elevated summits, in order to visit Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, where that Prince is said to have fled from the rage of his subjects, and where it was said he and his Castle were consumed with lightning. His life had been profligate, the Monks therefore were determined that he should not die the common death of all men, and accordingly made him perish with signal marks of the vengeance of Heaven. Fancy cannot frame a place more fit for a retreat from the knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire one with full hopes of security from any pursuit.—Embosomed in a lofty mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no vegetables appear, but the blasted heath and stunted gorse; the third side exhibits a most tremendous front of black precipice, with the loftiest peak of the mountainEiflsoaring above, and the only opening to this secluded spot is towards the sea, a northern aspect; the Glenn is tenanted by a few families, who raise oats, and keep a few cattle, sheep, and goats. Just above the sea is a high and verdant mount, natural, but the top and sides fortified by art; on this might have been the residence of the unfortunate Prince, of which time has destroyed every other vestige. Till thebeginning of the last century, atumulusof stone within, and externally covered with turf, was to be seen here; it was known by the name ofBedd Gwrtheyrn, tradition having regularly delivered down the report of this having been the place of his interment. The inhabitants of the Parish dug into theCarn, and found in it a stone Coffin, containing the bones of a tall man. This gives a degree of credibility to the tradition, especially as no other bones were found with it, no othertumulion the spot; a proof at least of respect to the rank of the person; and that the place was deserted after the death of the Royal Fugitive, about the year 465. Craig y Llam, near this place, is a tremendous lofty precipice, impending over the sea, and frequented in the summer season by numerous flocks of migratory birds, where their nests are ranged in regular tiers, on the ledges of this singular rock, in the same manner as at Gogarth, near Conway before-mentioned; underneath is a curious cave, accessible only by water, and visited in fine weather by different parties of pleasure, who bring their provisions along with them, and dine in the recesses of the Cliff.
From hence we descend again to the road, pass by Pistill, a little Chapel, annexed to Edern, and soon arrive atNevin, a small Town, and Contributory Borough to Carnarvon; this place was bestowed onNigel de Lohareyn, by the BlackPrince, in the twelfth year of his Principality, and made a free borough, was allowed a Guild Mercatory with every privilege attendant on other free Boroughs, and all the liberties and Customs granted heretofore to that of Newborough, in Anglesey. He also gave it a grant of two Fairs, annually, and a Market on a Sunday, to which the Inhabitants of the Commot of Dinlleyn, were obliged to resort. Here Edward the First, in 1284, held his triumph on the conquest of Wales, and perhaps to conciliate the affections of his new subjects, in imitation of our Hero Arthur, held a round table, and celebrated it with dance and tournament,
Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold,In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold;With store of Ladies, whose bright eyesReign influence, and judge the prizeOf wit or arms, while both contendTo win her grace whom all commend.
Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold,In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold;With store of Ladies, whose bright eyesReign influence, and judge the prizeOf wit or arms, while both contendTo win her grace whom all commend.
The concourse was prodigious, for not only the chief Nobility of England, but numbers from foreign parts graced the festival with their presence. The Gauls, as we are informed, sat at their round tables, to destroy all dispute about precedence; and every Knight had at his back a Squire with his Armour, in waiting. The Market is on Saturday, and the Fairs are holden on the fourth of April, Saturday before Whitsuntide, 25th of August, and 18th of September. The Church is dedicated to St. Mary; it is a discharged Rectory and Vicarage, valued in theKing’s Books at £2. 13s.4d.and is in the patronage of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. of Cefn Amwlch. Nevin is situated upon the Irish Channel, and has a small Pier, which is found to be very useful for the Herring Fishery, by which the Inhabitants principally subsist. The Herrings, about the year 1771, were taken here is vast abundance, from Perth Ysgadan, or the Port of Herrings, to Bardsey Island, and all along this coast; the capture amounted usually to the value of about four thousand pounds. These desultory fish, says Mr. Pennant, about the period above-mentioned, appeared in July and went away in October; in earlier times, they came in September and disappeared in November;Doriesare also often taken here: the fishermen, till within these last 20 years, were wont to fling them away, on account of their ugly appearance, however they at last discovered that they were accounted a great luxury. Crabs and Lobsters are also taken on this Coast, in great abundance, particularly about Bardsey, and are conveyed to the Liverpool Market. After quitting the small poor town of Nevin, we soon arrive at Porth Dinlleyn, near which is a Dinas, or fortified eminence, which probably gave name not only to this excellent harbour, but also to the Commot in which it is situated. An attempt was made some years ago, by W. A. Madocks, Esq. and some other gentlemen, to establish aregular communication between this place and Ireland, and for that purpose, a new road was made from hence to Tremadoc, and considerable sums of money were expended in erecting a breakwater or pier-head here, building a new Inn, &c. in hopes that Government would be prevailed upon to give this harbour the preference, and bring the Packets here from Holyhead, and consequently that the Mail Coaches would run this road; however, this plan, for some reasons not known to the writer, did not succeed. From hence, Garn Madryn, and Garn Beduan Hills make a very conspicuous appearance, near the former of which is the seat of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. and not far from the latter is the Church and Parish of that name, and the neglected seat of the Wynne’s, ancestors of Lord Newborough. We then pass through the small Village of Edeyrn or Edern; the living is a Rectory, in the gift of the Bishop, valued in the King’s Books at £8. 5s.the Church is dedicated to St. Edern. The distance from hence to Tydweiliog, the next little village, is about three or four miles, this is a small perpetual Curacy, Church dedicated to St. Gwyfen, a female Saint, whose festival is on the 3d of June. Not far distant from hence, on the left of the road, are two old Family Seats; the first is Brynodol, the property of J. Griffith, of Llanfair, Esq. here it seems Mr. Pennant was most hospitablyentertained, by his friend the late Hugh Griffith, Esq. (father of the last-mentioned gentleman), when he made the Tour of this part of the County. Brynodol, by advantage of situation on the side of a hill, commands a vast view of a flat woodless tract, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains: The Eifl hills, Garn Boduan, and the huge Garn Madryn rise in the fore-ground, and beyond these soars all Snowdonia, from those Alps which surround the Wyddfa, to the most remote in the County of Merioneth. The other is Cefnamwlch, now the property of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. and many years ago the occasional residence of John Griffith, of Voelas, Esq. a gentleman whose family, as well as that of Brynnodol, claim descent from the Princes of Wales. From Tudweiliog to Aberdaron the distance is about eight miles, over the Common of Rhôs Hirwen, and a flat uninteresting Country; during this latter part of the journey, the road passes within a short distance of several small Churches, such as Penllech and Llan Gwnadle on the right; and Meyllteyrn and Bryncroes on the left: near this extremity of the Promontory, are also the ruins of several little Chapels, such as Eglwys Fair, Capel Anelog, Capel Odo, Capel Bodferyn, Capel Cwm Dylif, &c. which proves that this part of the main land (as well as the Island of Bardsey) was the retreat of numerous recluses and devotees, in ancient times.—At Llan Gwnadl (alias Gwynhoydyl)is the following inscription: S. GWYNHOYDYL IACIT HIC 750: & HÆC ÆDES ÆDIFICATA &c. On the sea coast are several small Creeks, useful to the fishermen, who find in them during the Herring fishery, a safe retreat from storms; the names of some of which we shall here introduce Porth Towyn, Porth Colman, Porth Gwylan, Porth Ysgadan, Porth Cadlan, (or Cadfan), Porth Llywennan, Porth Orion, Porth Iago, Porth Feryn, Porth Neudwy, (or Meudwy) Porth Samddai, &c. At a place called Hen Fonwent, not far from the ruins of an old town, Tre Dindywydd, in the parish of Bryn croes, several earthen pots and urns were discovered some years ago, containing ashes and human bones; and near Ty Engion, an old stone altar was found, called Cerrig Inco, and another near Monachdy, in the same Parish; and a stone Coffin, (Cistfaen) on Ty mawr Farm, near the same place. There are also several British encampments in this neighbourhood, viz. Castell Caeron, on Mynydd y Rhiw mountain; Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum; and two on Mynydd Cilan, in the parish of Llan Engan. Several eminences bear the name of Pen yr Orsedd, i.e. the Throne, or Seat of Judicature, two of these are not far distant from Nevin; and near Cefnamwlch is a Cromlech, called Coetan Arthur. The following wells may also be mentioned as remarkable, on account of their bearing thenames of British Saints; viz. Ffynnon Saint, Ffynnon Ddurdan, Ffynnon Cefn Llaethfaen, Ffynnon Eliw, in the Parish of Rhiw; Ffynnon Garmon, in Aberdaron, and Ffynnon Lleuddad, in Bryncroes.
Aberdaron is a small fishing Village, situated on a sandy Bay, at the extremity of the Promontory of Lleyn (Langanum Promontorium); the mouth of the Bay is protected by two little Islands, calledYnys Gwylan; it takes its name from the rivuletDaron, which here empties itself into the sea; the inhabitants are mostly fishermen. The Church, which consists of two aisles, supported by four handsome pillars, is dedicated to St. Hoywyn; it was a sanctuary, and much frequented by pilgrims; Leland says it was called Llan Engan Frenin, (Fanum Niniani Reguli), but it is very probable, that the transcribers of his work must have made a mistake, asLlan Enganis seven or eight miles distant, on the road to Pwllhely, and where there is a very curious inscription on the Steeple, copied and explained by Mr. Rowlands. The Rectorial Tithes belong to St. John’s College, Cambridge; the Vicarage is in the patronage of the Bishop. This and Porth Meudwy, (a small Creek near it) were the places where Devotees, in former times, usually embarked for Bardsey (Enlli), and the curious stranger, who may wish to visit that Island, can easily procure a boat here, butbefore he sets sail he should examine the ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (Capel Fair), and also our Lady’s Cave and Well, (Ogof Mair a Ffynnon Fair,) the former is situated in a small plain, between two hills, Uwch Mynydd a Mynydd y Gwyddel, and the latter not far distant, nearly at the foot of a dreadful precipice called Maen Melyn, and from which, no doubt, this Commot (Cwmmwd-maen) takes its name. There is a most hazardous and circuitous path, down to the Cave and Well, along which Devotees frequently descended in former days, and even at the present time many are induced to visit the spot from curiosity. Maen Melyn is a yellow rock, streaked with white veins, in the middle of a black precipice, and at a distance has much the appearance of a large dog or leopard. In the dark ages of Popish Superstition it was supposed that if a person could descend by this path, and bring up a mouthful of water from the well, his wish would be certainly fulfilled; the Cape, at the end of the Promontory is calledPenyccil, and the ridge of hills Braich y pwll. This Chapel was placed here, in all probability, to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar Saint for protection through this dangerous Sound.
The Convent at Bardsey (Enlli) was one of the most ancient religious Institutions in North Wales, for Eineon Frenin, one of the Regnli of the County is said, in conjunction with EmyrLlydaw, to have founded a College in that Island, about the middle of the 9th Century, and Lleudad (Landatus) is generally supposed to have been the first Abbot. Dufrig, (Dubritius) Archbishop of Caerleon, is represented in our Welsh Annals to have resigned in favour of St. David’s, and to have retired to Bardsey, where he died about the year 612, from which circumstance, it is evident that there must have been a religious establishment here prior to that period. It seems likely to have been a seat of theCuldees, orColidei, the first religious recluses of Great Britain, who sought Islands and desert places, in which they might in security worship the true God. It was certainly resorted to in very early times, for we are assured, from undoubted authority, that it flourished as a Convent in the days ofCadvan, King of Britain, who was coeval with Dubritius, it was an Abbey, dedicated to St. Mary, and in theSebrightMSS. a petition is recorded, says Mr. Pennant, from the Abbot to Edward II. in which he sets forth the injuries he had received from the Sheriff of Carnarvon, who had extorted from him 68s.6d.contrary to his Deed of ffeoffment, on which the King directed Roger de Mortimer, Justiciary of Wales, to make enquiry into the matter, who reported that the Abbot held his Lands, in the County of Carnarvon, in puram et perpetuam elemosynam, without any service or secularacknowledgment; and further, that David, Lord of Lleyn, and brother to the last Prince of Wales, had exacted the same sum, as did hisPencynydd, or Master of his Dogs, possibly under pretence of maintaining them; the King therefore, by his special favor, and by advice of his Council, does for ever remit the said sum and all arrears, and directs that no one in future, either on his account or that of his heirs, ever should molest the Convent. The slaughter of the Monks, at Bangor Iscoed, about the year 607, is supposed to have contributed to the population of this Island, for not only the brethren who escaped, but numbers of other pious Britons fled hither, to avoid the rage of the Saxons.
There is a most curious, though superstitious document, still extant, written in Latin, in which it is asserted, that in consequence of the prayers of Holy Lleudad (Sanctus Laudatus) one of the first Abbots, and in consideration of the good and pious lives of the first Members of this Convent, the Almighty granted them the strange and uncommon privilege of departing out of this mortal life by seniority, so that like grapes in the vintage, (as it is there expressed) the most ripe (i.e. the eldest) was cut down first; and that this continued to be the case for many years, until these once Holy Brethren became again degenerated, and relapsed into various sins and vices, so that the Almighty was incensed against them,and summoned them hence, like the rest of mankind, without any respect to age or seniority.—This may serve as a specimen of the numerous tales and legends, invented by these and other idle and bigotted Monks.
This small Island, according to the Welsh History, affordedasylum, during life, to twenty thousand reputed Saints, and, after death, graves to as many of their bodies; well therefore might it be calledInsula Sanctorum, Isle of Saints; but, with Dr. Fuller, it must be observed, that it would be much easier to find graves in Bardsey, for so many Saints, than Saints for so many graves.—Nine hundred of these Devotees are said to have fled hither from the Massacre of the Monks, at Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire.
The following are the names of some of the first Abbots, and reputed Saints, who are said to have been buried there:
1. Lleudad, (Laudatus) the first Abbot.
2. Dufrig, (Dubricius) once Arch Bishop of Caerlleon ar Wysg, or Llandaf.
3. St. David, who retired hither from the Synod of Brevi, (Llan Ddewi Brefi).
4. Cadvan, who came to Wales from Llydaw, or Armorica, attended by the following persons: Padarn, Hywyn, Sulien, Tanwg, Tydecho, Tecwyn, and many others.
5. Dewrdan, or Dwrdan, from whom Bodwrda, in this neighbourhood is supposed to have been so called, or from Cowrda, to whom Abererch Church is dedicated.
6. Daniel, first Bishop of Bangor.
7. Beuno, to whom Clynnog Fawr is dedicated.
8. Myrddin ap Morfryn, (or Merlinus Caledonius or Sylvestris).
9. Hywyn ap Gwnda Hên, Steward to Cadvan, and to the Saints at Bardsey.
10. Dervel, to whom Llan Dderfel in Merionethshire is dedicated.
11. Eineon, or Engan Frenin, King of Lleyn.
12. Cawrdaf St. at Abererch.
13. Cadwallawn ap Owen Gwynedd, Abbot in the year 1169.
14. Thomas ap Griffith Nicholas, of Dinevor, in South Wales, who was killed in a Duel at Penal, in Merionethshire, was buried here.
15. Griffith ap Thomas, nephew of Griffith ap Nicholas, was interred here.
16. Hugh ap Richard ap Sion ap Madog, of Bodwrda, was buried here, in the time of Queen Elizabeth.—See William Lleyn’s Elegy on his Death.
This little Inland, at present contains about twelve or fifteen houses, and about sixty or seventy inhabitants, who are mostly fishermen.—It produces very good barley, and round its coast are great plenty of fish, and abundance of Lobsters, which are mostly sent (as before observed) to the Liverpool Market.
The revenues of the Monastery, at the general Dissolution, amounted, according to Dugdale, to £46. 1s. 4d. Tradition says, that Aberdaron, Bryn-croes, and Nevin, originally belonged to Bardsey, but at present the Tythes of those three Parishes, are the property of the Cefn Amwlch Family; and it is very probable that one of their ancestors purchased them of the King (Henry VIII.) or his Ministers at that time. This Island was granted by Edward VI. to his Uncle, Sir T. Seymour, and afterwards to John, Earl of Warwick; and the present proprietor’s father purchased it from Dr. Wilson of Newark. A tenement, called Court, in the Parish of Aberdaron,originally belonged to Bardsey, and was granted and purchased with the Inland, as before described. Part of Lleyn is to this day, called the Lordship or Manor of Bardsey, and a kind of Leet Court is still held, occasionally, either at Aberdaron, Bryncroes or Tydweiliog, which is called the Court of the Lord of the Manor of Bardsey. The present Lord of the Manor is the Marquis of Anglesey; there are also a Recorder, Bailiff and Constable, attached to this Lordship. The Court was probably held, formerly, at the above-mentioned Farm, which still bears the name of Court; and not far off is another place, calledSecar(Exchequer), and it seems there was a prison or gaol there, for near it is a hill, called Brynn y Grogbren, or Gallows Hill.—In general, when any of the Inhabitants die, they are brought to Aberdaron for interment; but in very stormy weather, the corpse is buried in the old Abbey Church yard, and the person who is best qualified reads the funeral service. Many years ago, when some of the Inhabitants had been to a Mill at Aberdaron, a great tempest arose on their return, and they were blown to the Coast of Cardiganshire, and landed in safety. A Light House is very much wanted on this Island, as, for want of such an object to direct them, Vessels are driven on Sarn Badrig-Goffrydiau-Caswennan, and other dangerous rocks, and many lives lost every year. We are happy to add, that sucha building is at present in contemplation. There are several Welsh Poems still extant, addressed to some of the Abbots.—Not far from hence is Carreg, the seat of Robert Thomas Carreg, Esq. now resident at Cefn mine.
The distance from Aberdaron to Pwllheli is about twenty miles; the road along the sea coast by Llanfaelrhys, Rhiw, Llandegwnning, Llan Engan, and Llanbedrog, is the most interesting.—On a part of the Promontory, calledPenrhyn Du, in former years, have been considerable adventurers for Lead Ore, and attempts to drain the mines, by means of a fire Engine, but the expences proved to exceed the profits.—The dangerous Bay, between Rhiw Mountain (Mynydd y Rhiw) and Penrhyn Du, is called by the Sailors Hell’s Mouth, being considered theScyllato the Charybdis of Sarn Badrig, whose extremity lies nearly opposite; and if the mariners can pass between these two, there is a very secure anchorage for ships of large burthen, at a place called the St. Tudwal Roads, near the two Islands of that name, on the largest of which are the remains of a small Chapel, dedicated to that reputed Saint.—At Abersoch, near this place, is also a small but safe harbour, where barley and other articles, the produce of this part of the County, are exported, and coals, &c. imported. At Gelliwig, whichwas(for we greatly regret to hear that he is lately dead) the residence ofColonel Evan Jones, a gentleman who, as a brave and enterprizing officer, distinguished himself in several campaigns, particularly in Egypt, under Sir Ralph Abercrombie; the writer cannot refrain from paying this tribute to departed worth, for he was certainly an honor to his country, and greatly beloved by all who knew him. And at Nanhoron, in this neighbourhood, is the elegant and hospitable seat of Colonel Edwards, one of the few gentlemen who constantly reside in the country, and give regular employment to a number of poor labourers, and set a good example to their tenantry in Agricultural improvements. The following inscription was transcribed from a Monument, erected to the memory of his brave father, Captain Edwards, in the Parish Church of Llan Gian:
“Sacred to the memory of Timothy Edwards, Esq. of Nanhoron, who, being appointed to the command of the Cornwall Man of War, of 74 Guns, in the year 1777, and having, in the course of a twelve-month, distinguished himself in four successive engagements, in the West Indies, against the French Fleet, was unfortunately, on his return home, carried off by a bilious fever, on the 12th of July, 1780, aged 49, before he had received those honors from his King and Country, which were destined to be the reward of his gallant and faithful services.—His disconsolate widow, penetrated with thedeepest regret, for her irreparable loss, caused this Monument to be erected.“In cœlo quies.”
“Sacred to the memory of Timothy Edwards, Esq. of Nanhoron, who, being appointed to the command of the Cornwall Man of War, of 74 Guns, in the year 1777, and having, in the course of a twelve-month, distinguished himself in four successive engagements, in the West Indies, against the French Fleet, was unfortunately, on his return home, carried off by a bilious fever, on the 12th of July, 1780, aged 49, before he had received those honors from his King and Country, which were destined to be the reward of his gallant and faithful services.—His disconsolate widow, penetrated with thedeepest regret, for her irreparable loss, caused this Monument to be erected.
“In cœlo quies.”
Llyn, or Lleyn, is a very extensive Hundred, in general flat, but interspersed with most characteristic hills or rocks, rising insulated in several parts; none makes so conspicuous a figure as Carn Madryn, Carn Boduan, and Mynydd Mynytho, (Mann-noeth-wy); the country, of late years, is greatly improved, owing to the laudable example of the resident gentlemen. The chief produce is oats, barley, pigs, and black cattle; it is supposed that above three thousand of the latter are annually sold out of these parts; much oats, barley, butter and cheese, are exported.—The land is good, particularly for grazing, being watered by a thousand rills; it is in general destitute of trees, except near gentlemen’s seats,—the example of planting, set by men of property, is however rapidly spreading; and by an Act, passed some years ago, many of the commons and waste lands have been enclosed, and brought into a state of cultivation. Giraldus Cambrensis, in his Itinerarium Cambriæ, says, that the Cantreds of Lleyn and Eifionydd were the possessions of Owen Gwynedd’s children, when he passed through Wales, and that they had two Castles, one at Carn Madryn, and the other at Penrhyn Deudraeth. Castellmarch, in this neighbourhood, is an old family seat, nowthe property of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Margaret Griffith, heiress of Plas mawr, in Carnarvon, and Trefarthen, in Anglesey, married Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Llyn, Esq. and her daughter Margaret Jones, heiress of Castellmarch, married Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, Baronet. Not far from the road is Wern fawr, now in ruins, the property of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. of Madryn. Near Llanbedrog is the Cottage, the residence of Lloyd Caldecot, Esq. and before we enter Pwllheli, is Bodegroes, the hospitable seat of Glynn Griffith, Esq. and not far distant is Bodvel,[179]an old house, which had the honor of giving birth to the celebrated Mrs. Piotzi.
Pwllheliis the principal Town in this part of the County, and the Magazine of Goods which supplies all this tract; it lies near the sea shore, and has a tolerable harbour for vessels of about 60 tons: Leland styles it “statio optima Carinis.” The entrance is by a high rock, called Carreg y Wimbill, (the Gimlet,) which is near a mile from land, to which it is joined by a range of sand hills. This place, as well as Nevin, was made a free Borough, by the Black Prince, by Charter, dated the 12th year of his Principality, at Carnarvon,in compliment toNigel[180]de Loryng, orLohareyn, one of the gentlemen of his bedchamber, on whom he had bestowed, Nevin and Pwllhely, in consideration of his great service inGascony, and particularly at the Battle ofPoitiers. He entitles him to “servitiis quorumcunque tenentium tam liberorum quam nativorum,” by which it may be presumed, that he did not include the Welsh in the privileges; what those were we do not learn, but they were the same which the Burgesses of Rosfair, in Anglesey enjoyed, and for them Pwllheli was to pay to Nigel fourteen pounds a year, and Nevin thirty-two. This Borough and Nevin, he freely bestowed on him, with all its appurtenances, together with fourlibratesof Land, towards the repairs of his Manors, and for all these he was only to pay an acknowledgment of a rose, in lieu of all services; if he died without issue the whole was to revert to the crown. Edward III. afterwards confirmed these grants toSandwich. Denio, the Parish Church, (or rather a Chapel to the Vicarage of Llannor) stands on a hill about half a mile out of the Town; it is dedicated to St. Beuno. The Markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and the Fairs on the 5th of March, 13th of May, 28th of June, 19th of August, 24th of September, and 11th of November. Pwllheliis a safe and good harbour, as we before observed, and well sheltered from all winds, but a Perch is much wanted at the extreme end of theGimlet Rock. This is one of the Contributory Boroughs with Carnarvon, in returning one Member to Parliament; it is a Corporate Town, and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, and a Recorder. The Petty Sessions for the District are held here. An Embankment has been made within these few years, on both sides of the Town, by which several hundred acres have been recovered, the greatest part of which used to be overflowed by the high tides. Pwllheli has as excellent beach for Sea bathing, and is likely to become a place of resort in the Summer season, for that purpose. The number of inhabitants in 1811, was nearly thirteen hundred. The Prince (says Leland) had a place here, as yet appeareth.
The distance from Pwllheli to Tremadoc is about 15 miles; the first village on the road is Abererch, situated on the river Erch, and partly in the Cwmwd (Commot) of Dinlleyn, Cantref of Lleyn, and partly in the Cwmwd of Eifionydd, Cantref of Dunodig. The Church is dedicated to Saint Cawrdaf; it is a discharged Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £6. Patron, the Bishop of Bangor. The number of inhabitants, in 1811, was about 1100. In this Church was buried Sir Thomas Pulesten, a distinguished favorite of Edward 1st. who was killed in 1282.—The next Parish is Llanarmon, the Church is dedicated to St. Garmon. At Plas Du in this Parish, was born that celebrated Epigrammatist, John Owen; this place gave birth also to the Rev. John Evans, S. Th. P. Bishop of Bangor, in 1715, and afterwards of Meath, in Ireland.—On the road to Carnarvon is Trallwyn, the seat of J. E. Lloyd, Esq. and not far distant, Glasfryn, Rev. Thomas Ellis; as we proceed, pass, on the left, Hendre, Rev. Thomas Roberts, and pretty near it Werglodd fawr, R. Jones, Esq. After passing the junction of the Pwllheli and Nevin Roads, soon reach Llanystumdwy, a Church and Village, situated near a river, in a well-sheltered little Vale, beautifully wooded; the Church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist.—Near this place are a great number of gentlemen’s seats: Plas Hen, now the property of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. once the seat of Evan Lloyd Vaughan, Esq. by marriage with an heiress of the name of Vaughan, a descendant ofCollwyn ap Tangno; she afterwards married William Lloyd, a younger son of Bod-Idris: this William Lloyd was Sheriff in 1648, and was killed in a skirmish near Bangor, by Sir John Owen. Near it is Gwynfryn, late the property of David Ellis Nanney, Esq. Attorney-General on this Circuit, now the residence of his nephew, O. J. E. Nanney, Esq.; a little nearer Crickaeth, to the left of the road, is Trefan, late the property of Rev.Z. Hughes, now the seat of Mrs. Priestley.—To these may be added Sgubor Hen, Aberkin, Ty Newydd, Rev. J. Kyffin; Mynydd Ednyfed, Rev. Mr. Jones, Rector of Crickaeth; and Brynhir, now unoccupied. In this neighbourhood are the ruins of a small Chanel, called Bettws; and not far distant is Chwilog, an old House, which formerly belonged to the ancestors of Sir Howell y Fwyall, our celebrated Countryman, who attended the Black Prince to the Battle ofPoitiers, and, according to our Welsh Bards, was the person who took the French King prisoner, though that honor is generally bestowed onDenis de Morebeque, a Knight ofArtois.—Our brave countryman, however, undoubtedly behaved on the occasion with distinguished valour, for the Black Prince not only bestowed on him the Constableship of Crickaeth Castle, which he afterwards made his residence, but Knighted him, and in perpetual memorial of his good services, ordered, that from thenceforth, a mess of meat should be served up before the pole-axe, with which he performed such great feats; for that reason he bore it in his Coat of Arms, and was styled (as before-mentioned) Syr Howel y Fwyall, or of theAxe. After the Mess had appeared before the Knight, it was carried down and bestowed on the poor; Eight Yeomen attendants were constituted to guard the Mess, and had eight-pence a day, constant wages, at theKing’s charge; and these, under the name of Yeomen of the Crown, were continued on the establishment till the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, and it is supposed by many that the Yeomen of the Crown are indebted to these for their origin. After the death of Sir Howel, the Mess was carried as before, and bestowed on the poor, for thesake of his soul, in the time of Popery, and probably as low as the period above-mentioned.—Sir John Wynne, in his History of the Gwydir family; informs us that this Sir Howel was also Constable of Chester Castle, and had also Dwyfor, and others, the King’s Mills, to farm, and a grant of the Weirs and Fisheries on this Coast, besides many other offices of great trust and profit.
Crickaeth Cattle is situated on conical rock, jutting far into the sea, and the Isthmus crossed, by way of defence, by two deep ditches; on each side of the entrance is a great round Tower; the Court is of an irregular form, and has the remains of a square Tower, beyond is another Court, and in it, on the verge of the rock, are two others, also square. It is probable that all the Towers were originally square, for the insides of the two round Towers are of that form; they have so much the appearance of the Architecture of Dolyddelen Castle, that it is probable this Castle was founded by a Welsh Prince, and that Edward the First did no more than case theTowers, which at present are the two rounders; after the conquest, Edward appointed William de Leybourne to be Constable, with a Salary of One Hundred Pounds a year, for which he was to maintain a garrison of 30 men, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, one Carpenter, and one Mason.
On our way to Penmorva and Tremadoc, pass by Stumllyn, formerly the seat of the Wynnes, now the property of — Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth. Several Antiquities are scattered over this part of the County; near Dolbenmaen, is a large Mount, on which might have been, as Mr. Rowlands conjectures, a Watch Tower. Near Ystum Cegid are threeCromlechs, joining to each other, possibly memorials of three Chieftains slain on the spot. And nearClenenney, onBwlchCraig Wenn, is a fine Druidical Circle, consisting, at present, of thirty-eight stones; at a mile’s distance and within sight of this, abovePenmorva, is another. On Llysdin Farm, were lately discovered, some small Urns, containing human bones and ashes. Not far distant from hence, in the Parish of Llanfihangel y Pennant, isBrynkir, once the seat of a family of that name, now the property of J. Huddart, Esq. at present Sheriff for this County; Lord Lyttleton, whose Letters from Wales are well known, and were published at the end of Bingley’s first Tour, remained here for several days, on a visit to one of the Brynkirs, and during his stay ascended Moel Hedog, which divides this Country from the Vale of Bethgelert.The present proprietor has built a new house here, and made other great improvements.
In remote days, this part of Eifionydd was possessed by two Clans, one descended fromOwen Gwywedd, Prince of North Wales, and consisted of the houses ofCessail Gyfarch,Ystum Cegid Clenenney,BrynkerandGlasfryn, orCwmystrallyn; the other was derived fromCollwyn ap Tangno, and consisted of the houses ofChwilog,Bron y Foel,Berkin,Gwynfryn,Tal Hen bont, (now Plas Hen) andPennardd.—The feuds of these two parties filled the land with blood. The history of our Country, during that period, is the History of revenge, perfidy, and slaughter. This consideration inducedMeredith ap Jevan, ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, to quit this his paternal country—“I had rather,” says he, “fight with out-laws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred;—If I live in my own house, in Efionydd, I must either kill my own kindred, or be killed by them.” There was not a house in the hundred, as Mr. Pennant observes, that had not its dreadful tale,—they would quarrel, says Sir John Wynne, if it was but for the mastery of the country, and the first good morrow; John Owen ap John ap Meredydd, and Howel ap Madoc Vychan fell out for no other reason: Howel and his people fought valiantly,—when he fell, his mother placed her hand on his head, to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three of her fingers cutoff by some of her nearest kindred. An attempt was made to kill Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of John ap Meredith, for no other reason but that their servants had quarrelled about a Fishery; they first set fire to the Mansion, with great bundles of straw,—the besieged, terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves under forms and benches, whileRhys, the old Hero, stood, sword in hand, reproaching his men with cowardice, and telling them he had often seen a greater smoke in that Hall on Christmas-even. These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other punishment than what resulted from private revenge, and too often composition was made for the most horrible murders. There was agwerth, or price of blood, from the slaughter of a King, to the cutting off one of his subject’s little fingers.
The Village of Penmorva is situated in a nook, between some high rocks, at the end of a tract of meadows, formerly subject to the over-flowing of the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. Madocks, Esq. a gentleman to whom this part of the County is greatly indebted for numerous and great improvements, particularly for the erection of an embankment, about a mile in length, in order to reclaim some thousand acres of land, and which now forms a safe and convenient road between the Counties of Carnarvon and Merionneth, across the Estuary of Traethmawr, whereas formerly many lives were lost ingoing over these dangerous sands. In the Church of Penmorva, which is dedicated to St. Beuno, was interred that valiant Knight, Sir John Owen, besides the monument to his memory, there is another to Sir William Morris, of Clenenney, who died August 11, 1622. Tremadoc, a new Town, which bears the name of its Founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorva, and contains from Eighty to a Hundred Houses.—Here is a handsome new Church, a Market-Place, a comfortable Inn, and a great number of good Shops: near the Town are also several good Houses built by the same Gentleman, particularly Tan yr Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.; all of which, as well as every thing in and about this small Town, evidently prove the individual who planned and conducted the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, and superior judgment and ability.—A Market has been established here, and the Fairs which used to be at Penmorva on the following days, March 6, May 14, August 20, September 25, and November 12, have mostly deserted that place, and are held at Tremadoc.—Here is an excellent Salmon Fishery—a good shore for Bathing—and a safe Harbour for Vessels under 120 Tons burthen. It is greatly to be lamented, that the beneficial improvements projected by the before-mentioned public spirited Gentleman W. A. Madocks, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of forwardness; should not be completed.In the Year 1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, conceived the great design of gaining this immense track, (Traeth mawr) as well as the lesser one, (Traeth bach) from the Sea, by means of an Embankment; and for that purpose he implored the assistance of his illustrious Countryman Sir Hugh Middleton, in a Letter which has been preserved, and together with that Gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. A Bridge over Traeth bach, and a new line of Road along the Sea Coast to Barmouth, and a Stage Coach, or some other more regular mode of conveyance between North and South Wales, particularly during the Summer Months, are still left among thedesiderataof this portion of the Principality.