AN EVENING IN THE GUNROOM OF THE "VEGA" DURING THE WINTERING.AN EVENING IN THE GUNROOM OF THE "VEGA" DURING THE WINTERING.
"By three o'clock it begins to grow dark, and one after the other of our guests depart, to return, the most of them, in the morning. Now it is quiet and still. About six the crew have finished their labours and dispose of the rest of the day as they please. Most of them are occupied with reading during the evening hours. When supper has been served at half-past seven in the gunroom, he who has the watch in the ice-house from nine to two next morning prepares for the performance of his disagreeable duty; the rest of the gunroompersonnelare assembled there, and pass the evening in conversation, play, light reading, &c. At ten every one retires, and the lamps are extinguished. In many cabins, however, lights burn till after midnight.
"Such was in general our life on theVega. One day was very like another. When the storm howled, the snow drifted, and the cold became too severe, we kept more below deck; when the weather was finer we lived more in the open air, often paying visits to the observatory in the ice-house, and among the Chukches living in the neighbourhood, or wandering about to come upon, if possible, some game."
The snow which fell during winter consisted more generally of small simple snow-crystals or ice-needles, than of the beautiful snow-flakes whose grand kaleidoscopic forms the inhabitants of the north so often have an opportunity of admiring. Already with a gentle wind and with a pretty clear atmosphere the lower strata of the atmosphere were full of these regular ice-needles, which refracted the rays of the sun, so as to produce parhelia and halos. Unfortunately however these were never so completely developed as the halos which I saw in 1873 during the sledge-journey round North-east Land on Spitzbergen; but I believed that even now I could confirm the correctness of the observation I then made, that the representation which is generally given of this beautiful phenomenon, in which the halo is delineated as a collection of regular circles, is not correct, but that it forms a very involved system of lines, extended over the whole vault of heaven, for the most part coloured on the sun-side and uncoloured on the opposite side, of the sortshown in the accompanying drawings taken from the account of the Spitzbergen Expedition of 1872-73.
REFRACTION-HALO.REFRACTION-HALO.Seen on Spitzbergen in May 1873, simultaneously with the Reflection-halo delineated on the following page.
Another very beautiful phenomenon, produced by the refraction of the solar rays by the ice-needles, which during winter were constantly mixed with the atmospheric strata lying nearest the surface of the earth, was that the mountain heights to the south of theVegain a certain light appeared as if feathered with fire-clouds. In clear sunshine and a high wind we frequently saw, as it were, a glowing pillar of vapour arise obliquely from the summits of the mountains, giving them the appearance of volcanos, which throw out enormous columns of smoke, flame-coloured by the reflection from the glowing lava streams in the depths of the crater.
A blue water-sky was still visible out to sea, indicating that open water was to be found there. I therefore sent Johnsen thehunter over the ice on the 18th December to see how it was. In three-quarters of an hour's walking from the vessel he found an extensive opening, recently covered with thin, blue, newly frozen ice. A fresh northerly breeze blew at the time, and by it the drift-ice fields were forced together with such speed, that Johnsen supposed that in a couple of hours the whole lead would be completely closed.
REFLECTION-HALO.REFLECTION-HALO.Seen simultaneously with the Retraction-halo delineated on the preceding page, in the part of the sky opposite the sun.
In such openings in Greenland white whales and other small whales are often enclosed by hundreds, the natives thus having an opportunity of making in a few hours a catch which would be sufficient for their support during the whole winter, indeed for years, if the idea ofsavingever entered into the imagination of the savage. But here in a region where the pursuit of the whale is more productive than in any other sea, no such occurrence has happened. During the whole of our stay on the coast
SECTION OF THE BEACH STRATA AT PITLEKAJ.SECTION OF THE BEACH STRATA AT PITLEKAJ.1. Hard frozen coarse sand. 2. The sea. 3. Beach of fine dry sand with masses of bones of the whale. 4. Coast-lagoon.
of the Chukch country we did not see a single whale. On the other hand, masses of whales' bones were found thrown up on the beach. At first I did not bestow much attention upon them, thinking they were the bones of whales that had been killed during the recent whale-fishing period. I soon found however that this could not have been the case. For the bones had evidently been washed out of the sandy dune running along the beach, which had been deposited at a time when the present coast lay ten to twenty metres below the surface of the sea, thus hundreds or thousands of years ago, undoubtedly before the time when the north coast of Asia was first inhabited by man. The dune sand is, as recently exposed profiles show, quite free from other kitchen-midden remains than those which occur upon its surface. The whales' bones in question were thussubfossil. Their number was so great, that in the systematic examination of the beach in the immediate neighbourhood of the vessel, which I undertook during spring with the assistance of Dr. Kjellman and half a dozen of the sailors, thirty neck-bones and innumerable other bones of the whale were found in a stretch of from four to five kilometres. Of course masses of bones are still concealed in the sand; and a large number of lower jaw-bones, ribs, shoulder-blades, and vertebræ had been used for runner-shoes, tent-frames, spades, picks and other implements. A portion, after being exposed for several years to the action of the air, had undergone decay. The bones are therefore found in greatest number at those places where the sand of
CHRISTMAS EVE ON THE "VEGA."CHRISTMAS EVE ON THE "VEGA."
the dune has been recently carried away by the spring floods or by the furious winds which prevail here, and which easily gain the ascendency over the dry sand, bound together only by widely scattered Elymus-stalks. The largest crania belonged to a species nearly allied to theBalæna mysticetus. Crania of a species of Rachianectes are also found along with some bones of smaller varieties of the whale. No complete skeleton however has been found, but we brought home with us so large a quantity of the loose bones that the collection of whales' bones alone would have formed a full cargo for a small vessel. These bones will be delineated and described by Professor. A. W. MALM inThe Scientific Work of the Vega Expedition. Special attention was drawn to a skeleton, belonging to theBalæna mysticetus, by its being still partially covered with skin, and by deep red, almost fresh, flesh adhering to those parts of it which were frozen fast in the ground. This skeleton lay at a place where the dune sand had recently been washed away and the coarse underlying sand uncovered, the whale-mummyalso I suppose coming to light at the same time. That the whale in question had not stranded in the memory of man the Chukches assured me unanimously. In such a case we have here a proof that even portions of the flesh of gigantic sea-animals have been protected against putrefaction in the frozen soil of Siberia—a parallel to the mammoth-mummies, though from a considerably more recent period.
Christmas Eve was celebrated in the usual northern fashion. We had indeed neglected, as in the Expedition of 1872-73, to take with us any Christmas tree. But instead of it Dr. Kjellman prevailed on our Chukch friends to bring with dog-sledges willow-bushes from the valleys lying beyond the mountains to the south. By means of these a bare driftwood stem was converted into a luxuriant, branchy tree which, to replace the verdure, was clothed with variegated strips of paper, and planted in the 'tweendecks, which after our enclosure in the ice hadbeen arranged as a working room, and was now set in order for the Christmas festivities, and richly and tastefully ornamented with flags. A large number of small wax-lights, which we had brought with us for the special purpose, were fixed in the Christmas tree, together with about two hundred Christmas boxes purchased or presented to us before our departure. At six o'clock in the afternoon all the officers and crew assembled in the 'tweendecks, and the drawing of lots began, now and then interrupted by a thundering polka round the peculiar Christmas tree. At supper neither Christmas ale nor ham was wanting. And later in the evening there made their appearance in the 'tweendecks five punchbowls, which were emptied with songs and toasts for King and Fatherland, for the objects of the Expedition, for its officers and men, for the families at home, for relatives and friends, and finally for those who decked and arranged the Christmas tree, who were the sailors C. Lundgren and O. Hansson, and the firemen O. Ingelsson and C. Carlström.
The other festivals were also celebrated in the best way, and at midnight before New Year's Day the new year was shot in with sharp explosive-shell firing from the rifled cannon of theVega, and a number of rockets thrown up from the deck.
FOOTNOTES:
[249]Equal to 6.64 English miles.
[250]When it had become evident that we could make no further advance before next year, Lieut Brusewitz occasionally measured the thickness of the newly formed ice, with the following results:—
THICKNESS OF THE ICE.1 December, 56 centimetres. 1 May. 154 centimetres1 January, 92 ,, 15 ,, 162 ,,1 February, 108 ,, 1 June, 154 ,,15 ,, 120 ,, 15 ,, 151 ,,1 March, 123 ,, 1 July, 104 ,,1 April, 128 ,, 15 67 ,,(full of holes).15 ,, 139 ,, 18 ,, The ice broke up.
[251]Low brush is probably to be met with in the interior of the Chukch peninsula at places which are protected from the cold north winds.
[252]According to H. Wild's newly-published large work, "Die Temperatur Verhältnisse des Russischen Reiches, 2e Halfte, St. Petersburg, 1881," the Old World's cold-pole lies in the neighbourhood of the town Werchojansk (67° 34' N.L. 133° 51' E.L. from Greenwich). The mean temperature of the different months and of the whole year is given in the note at page 411. If the data on which these figures rest are correct, the winter at Werchojansk is immensely colder than at theVega'swinter station.
[253]1 lb.=100 ort=425.05 gram. 1 kanna=100 cubic inches=2.617 litres.
[254]To carry animals for slaughter on vessels during Polar expeditions cannot be sufficiently recommended. Their flesh acts beneficially by forming a change from the preserved provisions, which in course of time become exceedingly disagreeable, and their care a not less important interruption to the monotony of the winter life.
[255]I give here an extract from the Vocabulary, that the reader may form some idea of the language of the north-east point of Asia:—
Tnáergin
, heaven.
Tirkir
, the sun.
Yédlin
, the moon.
Angátlingan
, a star.
Nútatschka
, land.
Ángka
, sea.
Ljédljenki
, winter.
Édljek
, summer.
Edljóngat
, day.
Nekita
, night.
Áyguon
, yesterday.
Íetkin
, to-day.
Ergátti
, to-morrow.
Gnúnian
, north.
Emnungku
, south.
Nikáyan
, east.
Kayradljgin
, west.
Tintin
, ice.
Átljatlj
, snow.
Yeetedli
, the aurora.
Yengeen
, mist.
Tédljgio
, storm.
Éek
, fire.
Kljautlj
, a man, a human being.
Oráedlja
, men.
Neáiren
, a woman.
Nénena
, a child.
Empenàtschyo
, father.
Émpengau
, mother.
Ljéut
, head.
Ljeutljka
, face.
Dljedljádlin
, eye.
Liljáptkóurgin
, to see.
Huedljódlin
, ear.
Huedljokodljáurgin
, to hear.
Huádljomerkin
, to understand.
Huedljountákurgin
, not to understand.
Yeká
, nose.
Yekergin
, mouth.
Kametkuaurgin
, to eat.
Yedlinedljourgin
, to speak.
Mámmah
, a woman's breast.
Mammatkóurgin
, to give suck.
Yéet
, foot.
Retschaurgin
, to stand.
Yetkatjergin
, to lie.
Tschipiska
, to sleep.
Kadljetschetuetjákurgin
, to learn.
Pintekatkóurgin
, to be born.
Kaertráljirgin
, to die.
Kámakatan
, to be sick.
Kámak
, the Deity, a guardian Spirit.
Yáranga
, tent.
Etschengeratlin
, lamp.
Órguor
, sledge.
Atkuát
, boat.
Anetljkatlj
, fìshing-hook.
Anedljourgin
, to angle.
Uádlin
, knife.
Tschúpak
,
Kámeak
, dog.
Úmku
, Polar bear.
Rérka
, walrus.
Mémetlj
, seal.
Kórang
, reindeer.
Gátlje
, bird.
Enne
, fish.
Gúrgur
, dwarf-birch.
Kukatkokongadlin
, willow-bush.
Gem
, I.
Gemnin
, mine.
Get
, you.
Genin
, yours.
Enkan
, he.
Muri
, we.
Turi
, you.
Máyngin
, much.
Pljúkin
, little.
Konjpong
, all.
I
, yes.
Etlje
, no.
Métschinka
, thanks.
Énnen
, one.
Nirak
, two.
Nrok
, three.
Nrak
, four.
Metljíngan
, five.
[256]The King of Sweden has since ordered a gold medal to be given to Wassili Menka in recognition of the fidelity with which he executed the commission of carrying our letters to a Russian post station.
[257]Seepage 119.
Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld and His signatureAdolf Erik NordenskiöldHis signature
WITH A HISTORICAL REVIEW OF PREVIOUS JOURNEYS ALONG THE NORTH COAST OF THE OLD WORLD
TRANSLATED BY ALEXANDER LESLIE
WITH FIVE STEEL PORTRAITS, NUMEROUS MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS
IN TWO VOLUMES—VOL II
LondonMACMILLON AND CO.1881
CHAPTER XI.
Hope of release at the new year—Bove's excursion to the open water—Mild weather and renewed severe cold—Mercury frozen—Popular lectures— Brusewitz's excursion to Najtskaj—Another despatch of letters home—The natives' accounts of the state of the ice on the coast of Chukch Land—The Chukches carry on traffic between Arctic America and Siberia—Excursions in the neighborhood of winter quarters—The weather during spring—The melting of the snow—The aurora—The arrival of the migratory birds—The animal world of Chukch Land—Noah Elisej's relief expedition—A remarkable fish—The country clean of snow—Release—The North-East Passage achieved
CHAPTER XII
The history,physique, disposition, and manners of the Chukches
CHAPTER XIII
The development of our knowledge of the north coast of Asia—Herodotus—Strabo—Pliny—Marco Polo—Herbertstein's map—The conquest of Siberia by the Russians—Deschnev's voyages—Coast navigation between the Lena and the Kolyma—Accounts of islands in the Polar Sea and old voyages to them—The discovery of Kamchatka—The navigation of the Sea of Okotsk is opened by Swedish prisoners of war—The Great Northern Expedition— Behring—Schalaurov—Andrejev's Land—The New Siberian islands— Hedenström's expeditions—Anjou and Wrangel—Voyages from Behring's Straits westward—Fictitious Polar voyages
CHAPTER XIV
Passage through Behring's Straits—Arrival at Nunamo—Scarce species of seal—Rich vegetation—Passage to America—State of the ice—Port Clarence—The Eskimo—Return to Asia—Konyam Bay—Natural conditions there—The ice breaks up in the interior of Konyam Bay—St. Lawrence Island—Preceding visits to the Island—Departure to Behring Island
CHAPTER XV
The position of Behring Island—Its inhabitants—The discovery of the Island by Behring—Behring's death—Steller—The former and present fauna of the Island: foxes, sea otters, sea cows, sea lions, and sea bears—Collection of bones of the Rhytina—Visit to a "rookery"—Torporkoff Island—Alexander Dubovski—Voyage to Yokohama—Lightning stroke
CHAPTER XVI
Arrival at Yokohama—A Telegram sent to Europe—The stranding of the SteamerA.E. Nordenskiöld—Fêtesin Japan—The Minister of Marine, Kawamura—Prince Kito-Shira Kava—Audience of the Mikado—Graves of the Shoguns—Imperial Garden at Tokio—The Exhibition there—Visit to Enoshima—Japanese Manners and Customs—Thunberg and Kämpfer.
CHAPTER XVII
Excursion to Asamayama—The Nakasendo road—Takasaki—Difficulty of obtaining Quarters for the Night—The Baths at Ikaho—Massage in Japan—Swedish matches—Traveling inKago—Savavatari—Criminals—Kusatsu—The Hot Springs and their healing power—Rest at Rokurigahara—The Summit of Asamayama—The Descent—Journey over Usui-toge—Japanese Actors—Pictures of Japanese Folk life—Return to Yokohama
CHAPTER XVIII
Farewell dinner at Yokohama—The Chinese in Japan—Voyage to Kobe—Purchase of Japanese Books—Journey by sail to Kioto—Biwa Lake and the Legend of its Origin—Dredging there—Japanese Dancing Girls—Kioto—The Imperial Palace—Temples—Swords and Sword bearers—Shintoism and Buddhism—The Porcelain Manufacture—Japanese Poetry—Feast in a Buddhist Temple—Sailing across the Inland Sea of Japan—Landing at Hirosami and Shimonoseki—Nagasaki—Excursion to Mogi—Collection of Fossil Plants—Departure from Japan
CHAPTER XIX
Hong Kong and Canton—Stone polishing Establishments at Canton—Political Relations in an English Colony—Treatment of the Natives—Voyage to Labuan—Coal Mines there—Excursion to the shore of Borneo—Malay Villages—Singapore—Voyage to Ceylon—Point de Galle—The Gem Mines at Ratnapoora—Visit to a Temple—Purchase of Manuscripts—The Population of Ceylon—Dr. Almquist's Excursion to the Interior of the Island
CHAPTER XX
The Journey Home—Christmas, 1879—Aden—Suez—Cairo—Excursion to the Pyramids and the Mokattam Mountains—Petrified Tree stems—The Suez Canal—Landing on Sicily by night—Naples—Rome—The Members of the Expedition separate—Lisbon—England—Paris—Copenhagen—Festive Entry into Stockholm—Fêtesthere—Conclusion
Engraved on Steel by G. J. Stodart, of London.
Adolf Erik NordenskiöldTo face Title page
Louis Palander
9. Herbertstern's Map of Russia, 1550 (photo-lithographic facsimile)
10. Map of the North Coast of the Old World from Norway to Behring's Straits, with the track of theVega, constructed from old and recent sources, and from observations made during the Voyage of theVega, by N. Selander, Captain in the General Staff
The Wood-cuts, when not otherwise stated below, were engraved at Herr Wilhelm Meyer's Xylographic Institute, in Stockholm
1. Chukches
2. The Encampment Pitlekaj abandoned by its Inhabitants on the 18th February, 1879
3. Notti and Wife Aitanga
4. Map of the Region round theVega'sWinter Quarters
5. The Sleeping Chamber in a Chukch Tent
6. Chukch Lamps
7. Section of a Chukch Lamp
8. Chukch Shaman Drum
9. The Coast between Padljonna and Enjurmi
10. Bracelet of Copper
11. The North End of Idlidlja Island
12. The Common Aurora Arc at theVega'sWinter Quarters
13. Aurora at theVega'sWinter Quarters, 3rd March, 1879, at 9 PM
14. Double Aurora-Arcs seen 20th March, 1879, at 9 30 PM
15. Elliptic Aurora, seen 21st March, 1879, at 2 15 AM
16. Elliptic Aurora seen 21st March, 1879, at 3 AM
17. Song Birds in the Rigging of the Vega, June, 1879
18. Spoon-billed Sand piper from Chukch Land (Eurynorhynchus pygmæus, L.)