DUNKIRK.

The first mention in history of Dunkirk goes back to the 10th century. As early as the 12th century, it proved to be an "Apple of Discord" between the kings of France and the counts of Flanders. Few towns have had such a stirring history. Ten times besieged, it was taken by Condé in 1646. Recaptured at a later period by the Spaniards, it was given back to the French by Turenne, after the battle of the Dunes (1658). Louis XIV ceded it to his ally Cromwell, but redeemed it from Charles II of England in 1662.

The Dunkirkian corsairs—most famous among whom was Jean-Bart (1651-1702)—inflicted such losses on the English, that the Treaties of Utrecht and Paris (1713 and 1763) provided for the destruction of the port. In 1793, the town was besieged for the last time. By holding out for three weeks against 40,000 men under the Duke of York, it enabled General Houchard to reach Hondschoote, where the English were decisively defeated. This feat of arms was commemorated by the device: "Dunkirk deserved well of the country, 1793", which was inscribed on the city's coat-of-arms.

During the Great War of 1914-1918, Dunkirk was an extremely important revictualling centre for the Allied troops. It also played a great part in helping to keep the mastery of the North Sea, and as such, was constantly bombarded by the enemy. It was to reach Dunkirk and Calais, that the Germans made their furious thrusts at Ypres and on the Yser. Of all the towns not directly in the front-line, Dunkirk was probably the one which suffered most. It was bombarded once by Zeppelins, seventy-seven times by aeroplanes and four times by warships. Lastly, a 15in. naval gun posted twenty-three miles away, shelled the town at regular intervals from April 1915 onwards. In all, more than eight thousand shells fell in the town, killing five hundred people and wounding over one thousand others. In spite of all, the town maintained considerable activity throughout the war.

The damaged and destroyed buildings were rapidly cleared away or repaired. Under bombardment, the shipbuilding-yards turned out three vessels of19,000 tons. Munitions of war were also manufactured in very large quantities. The followingcitationin the Army Order of October 17, 1917, which is to be incorporated in the city's coat-of-arms, was well deserved:

Quai de la Citadelle struck by a 15in. shell.

Subjected for three years to violent and frequent bombardments, Dunkirk was able, thanks to the admirable coolness and courage of her inhabitants, to maintain and develop its economic life in the interests of National Defence, thereby rendering invaluable service to the Army and Country. This heroic city is an example to the whole nation.

The Croix de la Légion d'Honneur was conferred on Dunkirk by President Poincaré on August 11, 1919.

Building a bomb-proof shelter in front of the Station.

Protecting the mechanism of the Locks from the Shells.

Follow the arrows along the streets indicated by thick lines in the plan below.

Starting-point:Place Jean-Bartin the middle of which isa statue of Jean-Bart (1844)(photo below).

Statue of Jean-Bart.

Church of St. Éloi.

Take Rue de l'Eglise (Rue Clemenceau) in which, immediately to the right, standstheChurch of St. Éloiwith theBelfryopposite.

Built in the 16th century,St. Éloi Churchcontains a nave flanked by four side-aisles. The first bays, nearest the façade, having being pulled down, the belfry—an old watch-tower, which formerly abutted on the church—is now separated from it by the width of the street. The façade was rebuilt in 1890. In the interior are a fineXVIIIth century pulpit, some old paintings, and the tomb of Jean-Bart(left aisle)(photo, p.29). The right aisle was torn open by the shells(photo below).

The Belfry, and ruined side aisle of St. Éloi Church.Exterior.Interior.

The Belfry, and ruined side aisle of St. Éloi Church.

Exterior.Interior.

TheBelfry, a large square tower of brick, 190 feet high, was built in 1440. It contains a peal of bells. From the top, there is a very fine view.

The entrance is on the rear side of the tower.

Take Rue des Bassins, opposite the church, and turn to the right along Rue de La Panne, in which standstheChurch of John-the-Baptist.

Church of John-the-Baptist.

This 18th century church contains some fine paintings. On the altar: TheConsecration of Dunkirk to the Virgin(Elias); in the chancel,The Death of Mary the Egyptian(G. de Crayer);The Holy Family(Erasme Quellin);The Holy Family(Le Guide);Jesus crowned with thorns(Van Dyck). In the nave:Paintings by Elias and de Janssens. On the northern side of the church are the cloister and modern chapel of St. Philomène (shrine).

Keep along Rue de la Panne; follow Quai des Hollandais, and turn to the right into Place d'Armes, in which standstheHôtel-de-Ville.

Quai des Hollandais and the Hôtel-de-Ville.

The Hôtel-de-Ville was rebuilt in 1896-1901 of brick and stone (architect, L. Cordonnier). On the first floor are statues of illustrious Dunkirkians. Just below the roof there is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. The tower is 250 feet high.

Fishing-boat Dock.In the background:Hôtel-de-Ville and Belfry.

Take Rue du Quai, on the left, to the large square in front of the port, in which is theFish-Market (Mynk). (See sketch-map, p.27.)

General View of Dunkirk and the Docks.

One of the busiest fishing and coast-trading ports in France, Dunkirk is especially important by reason of its import trade. The raw materials required for the industries of Northern France are discharged there, whilst iron ore, oil and metals are exported. Since the beginning of the 19th century Dunkirk has steadily grown and the fortifications have twice had to be extended (1861-1906). The ruined industries of the North and the competition of the Rhine may retard this growth, but the port's natural situation will always ensure a fine future for it. In 1920, the docks covered an area of about 100 acres, whilst the total length of the wharves was about six miles.

Trystram lock.

The port consists of a series of parallel docks, i.e., the extended rear port, the naval dock, the commerce dock, and wet-docks 1, 2, 3, 4, connected by the Freycinet dock. All these docks lie at right-angles to the great water-line formed by the grounding port and outer harbour, into which the channel debouches. Dunkirk also possesses extensive naval stocks provided with five large dry docks and a launching dock fifteen acres in extent(See plan, p.24.)

The Outer Port of Dunkirk and the Channel.

To visit the port, cross the bridges over Citadelle Lock and Western Lock; turn to the right along the quay, passing behind the wet-docks and skirting the graving-docks.On the right, on the other side of the grounding port, the naval dock-yards come into view.Cross the bridge of Trystram Lock, which connects up Freycinet Dock with the channel, then turn immediately to the right and cross the small bridge opposite the lighthouse, leaving the latter on the left. Skirt the channel (about 230 yards long and 27 yards wide), as far as the two booms which terminate it.There are several observation-posts and armoured concrete machine-gun shelters near the lighthouse.

Statue of Victory.

Return to the square in front of the port and follow the quay, on the left, as far as Rue Carnot on the right, which leads to the Chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Dunes. (See itinerary, p.27).

This chapel is a favourite pilgrimage. The fisherwomen of Dunkirk made it the headquarters of their Sisterhood.

A little further on standstheStatue of Victorycommemorating the siege of 1793. This monument is the work of Ed. Lormier (1893) and was erected on the site of the old ramparts.

Follow the tram-lines toMalo-les-Bains, Dunkirk's beach.

Return to Rue Carnot and take Rue des Vieux-Remparts on the left to Place du Theatre, where turn to the left into Rue Benjamin-Morel, in which standsThe Museum(photo below.)

The Museum.

Take Rue Jean-Bart on the right, behind the theatre, then Rue Thévenet on the left, leading back to Place Jean-Bart. Cross the latter diagonally to Rue Alexandre III (see Itinerary, p.27) which leads to Place de la République.Here stands the monument erected to the memory of the Dunkirkians who fell fighting for their country.(L. Morice, 1906.)

Cross Place de la République, then Place du Palais-de-Justice, turn to the right along Quai du Port au Bois then cross the bridge on the left (see Itinerary, p.27). Take Rue de Paris on the left, in which standsSt. Martin's Church.This modern church, primitive Gothic in style, is flanked by two towers with spires.

Church of St. Martin and Rue de Paris.

The tourist leaves Dunkirk by Rue de Paris and Rue des 4-Ecluses, which prolongs it, to follow the itinerary of the first day.

A VISIT TO THE YSER BATTLEFIELD AND THE BELGIAN COAST.First Day:DUNKIRK, NIEUPORT AND OSTEND.Lunch atNieuport.

A VISIT TO THE YSER BATTLEFIELD AND THE BELGIAN COAST.

First Day:

DUNKIRK, NIEUPORT AND OSTEND.

Lunch atNieuport.

LeaveDunkirkby Rue de Paris, continued by Rue des 4-Ecluses, cross the Canal de la Cunette (see lower half of itinerary, p.27, and text, p.32), and take the Furnes road (D. 15) which follows the right bank of the Dunkirk-Furnes Canal.

AtRosendael(2½ kms. on the other side of the canal) stoodthe Civilian Hospital of Dunkirk, which was shelled several times during the war.

On the left, 3 kms. further on, isDunes Fort.

Hospital at Rosendael bombed by a German aeroplane.The baby in the medallion had one of its hands cut off by a splinter.

Hospital at Rosendael bombed by a German aeroplane.

The baby in the medallion had one of its hands cut off by a splinter.

Sanatorium at Zuydcoote.(Cliché LL.)

At the first cross-roads (9 kms. from Dunkirk), the tourist may take the left-hand road toZuydcoote, to see the greatSanatorium for children, on the coast, founded by M. Van Covenberghe.Converted into a military hospital, it rendered invaluable service during the War(photo above).

To visit, go throughZuydcoote, turn to the left, beyond the level-crossing, then to the right 200 yards further on.

Return to D. 15, and follow same on the left. At the first cross-roads (2 kms.) take G. C. 4 on the right toHondschoote(12 kms.)

Pass throughGhyvelde, then atLes Moeresturn to the right, and on leaving, to the left.

Beyond the level-crossing,Hondschooteis reached. Take Rue de la Prévôlé on the left, which leads to the Grand' Place.

Hondschoote is a small town of ancient origin, whose population has greatly decreased since the 16th century. It was there that, on September 8, 1793 the French, under Houchard, defeated and drove back the English who were besieging Dunkirk(engraving below).

On the right of the Square (photos, p.35) isthe 17th century Renaissance Hôtel-de-Ville,while in the centre standsthe early 16th century church, in which are a fine pulpit and organ loft (1755).Near by isa monument (Darcq) commemorating the victory of 1793.

The Victory at Hondschoote. (21 Fructidor, Year 1.)

Hondschoote.Hondschoote Church.In front:9in. Mortars.In the medallion:The Pulpit.

Hondschoote.

Hondschoote Church.

In front:9in. Mortars.

In the medallion:The Pulpit.

Hondschoote. The Hôtel-de-Ville.

Verhaeren's Tomb at Adinkerke (1918).

Return to D. 15 and follow same to the right; cross the railway (l.c.); 2 kms. further on is the French Custom-House. The Belgian Custom-House is 3 kms. further on, nearAdinkerque.

Cross the canal and enterAdinkerke.

Take the street on the left which skirts the churchyard.Behind the church is a large Franco-Belgian cemetery, containing the grave of the Belgian poet Verhaeren. After the Armistice, his remains were transferred to his native town.

Keep straight on along the La Panne road; 600 yards beyond the Dunkirk-Furnes railway, a small foot-path on the right leads toa military cemetery.La Panneis next reached (3 kms.). This small seaside resort was one of the least modern places on the coast.Follow Avenue de la Mer as far as the dike, to the left of which arethree villas which were occupied during the war by King Albert and his staff.

Reception of President Poincaré by King Albert at the Royal Villa, La Panne, January 22, 1917.

Villa of the French Mission at La Panne(October 1916.)

Return along Avenue de la Mer to the first street on the left, in which isthe Hôpital de l'Océan.0 km. 800 further on, on the left, take the street which runs alongside the local railway. At the first fork, take the left-hand road toCoxyde(5 kms. from La Panne.)Wire entanglements and shelters in the Dunes may be seen all along the road. There is a military cemetery on the left,O km. 500 before reaching Coxyde.

Coxyde, like most of the towns on the coast, is divided into the town proper, situated behind the Dunes, and the Baths on the coast.

Concrete Gun Shelter,100 yards east of Coxyde-Bains.

Concrete Gun Shelter,

100 yards east of Coxyde-Bains.

Turn to the left on entering the village.The road crosses the Dunes, which are highest at Hoogen-Blekker (105 feet). Vestiges of trenches, wire entanglements, shelters and gun emplacements are to be seen on every hand.

In the Dunes, on the right, isan emplacement for naval guns(Photo opposite). Between this position and the sea is the camp known as that of Adjutant Lefèvre(Photo below).

The tourist may go as far asCoxyde-Bains(2 kms.) Return to and cross through Coxyde, keeping straight on toFurnes(3½ kms.)

The Camp of Adjutant Lefèvre at Coxyde-Bains.

Hôtel-de-Ville, Palais-de-Justice, Belfry, Church of St-Walburge.The Grand'Place, Furnes.

Hôtel-de-Ville, Palais-de-Justice, Belfry, Church of St-Walburge.

The Grand'Place, Furnes.

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