LIST OF NUMBERS ON THE SMALL WHEEL ANDECCENTRIC CHUCK.
Plate 7.
Plate 7.
These tools are also useful for cutting out the edges of work in vandykes, as in the top of the lighter case, E, for which pattern the tool No. 8 was used, the gimped edge being cut with No. 2; the end of the needle-case, D, inplate 9, is done with a round-ended drill, No. 3, in the same manneras directed for the end of the pen-holder. In the patterns Nos. 1 and 6 ofplate 11, the straight lines near the centre are cut with the round-ended drill.
All the eccentric tools require the greatest care in sharpening, and the above ingenious machine has been invented for this purpose; it is represented at P, inplate 4. The upper part, 1, is a plate of brass, the outer edge, 2, is graduated as high as 50 each way, beginning at the tongue, 3. Beyond the numbers is a groove, in which one end of the tool slide, 4, slips, and is firmly fixed (so as to point to any of the numbers that suit the angle of the tool) by a nut underneath. The whole plate, 1, is raised and lowered at pleasure by a small hinge at 5, and the requisite height is fixed and settled by counting the numbers on the steel tongue, 3. Underneath is another brass bed with two feet, upon which the machine rests, while the front part leans forwards and rests upon the end, 5. The box that contains the goneometer has three drawers in it; the first is lined with brass, except for about three inches inwidth, which space is covered with fine Turkey stone. To use this machine, take out this drawer, lay the feet of the goneometer on the brass, put the slide-rest tool, No. 4, into the tool box, screw it firm, then slide the tool box along the groove till it arrives at the proper angle, say 45; fix it with the nut underneath, then raise the whole brass plate, 1, sliding it along the tongue, 3, till at the exact height necessary for the tool to touch the Turkey stone. Rub it backwards and forwards upon it with oil. When one side is sharp, move the tool slide to the opposite angle, to sharpen the other. The small eccentric tools are placed in the steel case, U, and the case fits into the tool slide.
The rest we have already described, called the Parallel Rest, works, as its name sufficiently expresses, in a straight line; it is therefore useless for ornamenting spherical objects, and the circular rest has lately been invented to supply this deficiency. It is a most ingenious contrivance, and perfectly fulfils the purpose for which it was invented.
Plate 8.
Plate 8.
The bed, A A, is the same as in the parallel rest,and screws in the same way to the bed of the lathe. B is a brass socket and pillar, which support the bed C, in which the tool box slides; they are formed in the same piece with the lower bed, L L, and firmly fixed into the lower part, which is grooved, by four brass-headed screws, N N. The grooves enable the whole socket and tool box to slide backwards and forwards on the bed of steel, D D, and by means of the screw which passes through it the workman regulates the advance or retreat of the rest to or from the work in astraight line, while the lower part remains stationary. The small wheel, E, is graduated, and turned by a key, to enable the turner to count the distance. F is a steel spindle, which works in two brass collars, G G; about half-way down. The spindle is formed into a screw, O, which turns upon the brass wheel, H, and by moving the nut, J, moves the whole rest in a circular direction, in the same way that the screw in the steel bed, D D, impels it in a straight line: by this ingenious contrivance all objects that are round or spherical can be ornamented: such as balls, the globular sides of vases, or small baskets, in every variety of pattern. The learner will easily discoverthe proper method of using this rest, which is very simple in its mechanism and use. The nut, K, is for setting the tool slider at different angles, the same as in the parallel or sliding rest; the tools to be employed are those of the above-mentioned rest.
Plate 7.
This cutter, which also fits into the slide rest, is different from the others; and, as its name denominates, the patterns it can cut are almost endless, for it may be turned in any direction. The bed of the slide is the same as with the drill; at the end, No. 1, is a screw, which, when turned by the key, B, inclines the tool-holder, 2, to any angle that may be required, and it is regulated by the lines on the brass plate, 3, which are marked by a small steel point; so that if you wish to cut out a pattern slanting to the right, and another to correspond slanting to the left, you have only to mark the number on the plate, where you cut the first, and then with the key move the cutter to the same position on the opposite side. When the tool-holder, 2,stands straight, as in the plate, the tool cuts horizontally: when it is screwed down to the last line on the plate, it cuts perpendicularly, but the cut always scoops out; and by putting the tool as far out of the holder as you can, the cut will be larger, and the scoop deeper. The back support of the pulley, 4, moves with the tool-holder; and the pulleys, 5, correspond with each; the back one is turned in the same direction as the front one, by unloosing the screw, 6. The gut, after passing over the pulley on the over-head frame, comes through the two back pulleys of the cutter and round the front one, as in the plate; but when the cutter is screwed flat, a short cord, the same as that used for the drill, is sufficient; and the back pulleys are then not necessary. This tool requires constant oiling at D D, for the friction is very great; it also demands much care and delicacy in using it, as it must not be incautiously thrust against the wood, or it will stick fast, and not turn round. There are about four dozen tools, all of the shapes given in the plate, but of various sizes. This cutter slides into the slide rest, and the depth of the cut is, as usual, regulated by the screws at the end, and thecutter is brought to the work by the aid of the same lever as is used for the drill and eccentric cutter. The patterns cut by this tool are counted and regulated by the numbers on the brass wheel, as with the others. When the turner has once tried it, he will readily discover its advantages for all kinds of ornamental work, particularly for the sides of boxes, needle-cases, and many other articles; but it is needless to give many drawings of the patterns, as they much depend upon the taste of the turner.
One beautiful design for a lighter case, or small basket, is worked with this cutter with a flat-ended tool. Turn the work very thin, chuck it firmly, make one cut deep enough to allow the tooljustto cut through, and no more. Count thirty on the brass wheel of the lathe every time; the next row make the cut deeper, so that the opening will be larger, then move 60. By this means a piece of ivory will be left standing out, with openings cut between, which, when lined with coloured velvet, looks light and elegant. This row count sixty every time; the next, thirty, as at the beginning.
Plate 9.
Plate 9.
The needle-case inplate 9, fig. K, is entirely ornamented with this cutter in a variety of patterns.Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 8, are worked with the flat and round-ended tools; 2, with the tool No. 6; 5 with the tool 3; 7, with 4; and 6 with No. 6.
The bottle, B, is also ornamented with the same tools. It is hollow down the neck, and is intended to contain a tin or glass of water; in the stopper is glued a small camel’s-hair brush, which rests in the water, and is meant to be used for wetting postage-stamps, and fastening them upon letters. The bottom of the neck unscrews at fig. 1, and the part below it is hollowed out like a box, to hold the stamps. The neck is ornamented in steps. Set the cutter quite flat, facing the side of the work; use the tool No. 5; cut one line, move the brass wheel of the lathe just far enough to make the second cut join the first, and the same all round. In the next row make the first cut half-way between the others; thus, if you have begun at the numbers, 1, 6, 12, in the second row begin at 3, then go to 9, then to 15, and so on. Every row of steps begins half-way through the former ones, and for each row move the cutter on the slide rest the breadth of the tool. The convex moulding at the bottom of the neck is done by putting one of thehollow tools of the sliding rest into a handle, and rounding the ornament with it. The other patterns are all done with the same cutter, by placing the tools at different angles. In the sameplate, 9, the two patterns F and G are very beautiful, they are worked with the eccentric cutter. F resembles the scales of fish lying one over another: put the most angular tool, No. 5, (of the cutter tools), into the cutter; describe a circle from the edge of the middle line to the outer one; cut one circle verydeep, move ten numbers on the brass wheel of the lathe, and so on to the end.
The pattern, G, is worked exactly the same, only a less angular tool, No. 4, is used, and fewer numbers are counted: it resembles leaves, one lying over the other.
The stopper of the bottle, B, is also ornamented with this cutter, and with an angular tool. First turn the stopper quite circular, (the knob at the top must be glued in afterwards). Set the sliding rest at a convenient distance, and place under it one of the slide-rest tools, so as to raise it in an uneven manner; screw the rest firmly, and set the circle just large enough to encircle half the stopper. Bythis means the tool cuts theUNDERpart of the circle, and passes over the other half: this pattern must be cut very deep, and about five numbers be counted between each cut on the brass wheel of the lathe.
D is another pattern for a stopper; it is worked with a round-ended drill. Cut the holes rather deep, and as near as you can to one another, only leaving a very little thin shell of ivory between them, and the pattern will resemble a honeycomb. The lighter case, E, is ornamented with the drill and vertical cutter. Turn the upper part very thin, then drill long lines quite through the ivory, leaving a space between each; this looks light and elegant, if lined with coloured paper. The base is cut in steps with the vertical cutter; count twenty for each cut; the second row, make each cut between the former ones, moving for each row the breadth of the tool. The top is cut out in leaves with the drill tool No. 8.
To sharpen all these tools, use the goneometer, taking care that you fix it exactly at the proper angle, by counting the position by the numbers. If you do not place the tool just at the right angle, it will cut the patterns quite crooked.