CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them. Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes on shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treatment offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. Deceive a British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the Brazil Banks. Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vincent. Great frolic with the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail for N. Bedford. Storm in the Gulf Stream. Arrive at New Bedford.On the 17th of July, 1830, the brig Partheon, Capt. Maxfield, weighed anchor, spread her sails to the breeze, and fast the land receded from view. I sat on deck and watched the last hill sink away in the dim distance, and the breach forever increasing between me and my native land. Then the joys of home, a mother's kind care, and a sister's fond love rushed upon my mind and I half regretted the step I had taken. For their sakes I did regret, but when the remembrance of that ill-fated morning came to my mind, I sprang to my feet determined to share my joys and sorrows with none known to me by kindred or other ties. Striving to forget the past, I went to my duty. We stood for the Azores, where we took in water and provision. Those Islands lie between Europe and America, between 36° and 39° N. Lat. and contain about 1200 square miles, and belong to the Portuguese; have a clear sky and a salubrious air, and are extremely fertile, producing wine and various fruits in great abundance;are nearly free from venomous reptiles; are supposed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. Our stay was short; stood for the Cape Verde Islands, about 15° N. Lat., off the African Coast 300 miles; are about twenty in number, though many of them are of small note, being only barren rocks uninhabitable; one of them is a mere volcano, called Fogo.St. Jago is 150 miles in circumference, and the most fruitful, producing Indian Corn, Sugar, Cotton, Oranges, Limes, &c. A great trade is carried on in the article of Madder, which grows in great abundance among the rocks.Praya, situated on the easterly side of the group, has a beautiful harbor, and is much visited by vessels for refreshments.An immense business is done at the Island of Mayo, another of the same group, in making salt from the salt water, by the heat of the sun. At Spring tides it is received into a basin, or pan, formed by a sand bank, which runs for several miles along the coast.The salt costs nothing, except the raking of it together, and taking it to the boats, which is on asses, and at a very cheap rate.While off the Isle of St. Jago we encountered a tremendous squall, which came near throwing us upon the rocks, and would, had not we had a most skillful commander. After the wind abated we repaired the slight damage we received; cruised for whales, but with the poorest success; stood for the Brazil Banks, hoping to be more fortunate; touched at the Island of St. Thomas, which with Princes Island and Fernando Po, constitute what are termed the Guinea Group. The two first, St.Thomas and Princes Island, belong to the Portuguese; Fernando Po is occupied by the British. At Princes Island we were allowed liberty on shore; that is a privilege of one day on shore granted to one half of the crew at a time, while the remaining ones attend to the ship's duties.We remained about these islands a few days, taking three whales only. This was about the season of the year for violent tornadoes, which greatly impeded our operations, being constantly obliged to be on lookout, and in readiness for their approach. On whale ships sail is usually shortened at sundown and the vessel hove to under stern sails. One night while we were laying to, a violent squall suddenly arose, giving us hardly a moment's warning. The rain fell in torrents, the lightning played most vividly, which rendered the darkness still deeper. In executing the order, "haul down the fore-top-mast stay-sail," the halyards became entangled. I sprang upon the windlass to extricate them; at that moment the lightning struck, shivering the fore-top-gallant-mast and fore-top-mast into a thousand atoms. The shock was sensibly felt throughout the ship, and most severely so by myself, leaving me senseless for a number of hours.Shaped our course for St. Thomas island, where we replaced our spars with such as the country afforded, being quite an inferior article, heavy and very brittle. Our vessel being repaired, we stood for the same ground again, where we cruised two months, entirely disheartened, by our bad luck, only taking two whales.Our water getting quite low we stood for the British Settlement on Fernando Po. We deemed it unwise togo on shore there on account of the dreadful sickness then prevailing among the inhabitants. We sailed around the island till we came to a little harbor, lowered sail, and searched for water. The boat was manned by five oars-men with the captain. As we came around a point of land, we came suddenly upon several negro families loitering upon the beach entirely naked. They did not perceive us until we were close in upon them, when they gave a loud whoop or yell which almost deafened us, and took to their heels. We ransacked their huts, found they possessed, and perhaps needed, but little, living by fishing principally.We searched in vain for water, took to our boats again and pulled along till we came to a little bay known as North West Bay, where we saw a number of natives fishing. We kept close in shore for fear of frightening them. Before we could cut off their retreat, they saw us, gave one yell and most assiduously did they pull for the shore. We overtook one canoe; they seemed very much frightened, and made attempts to jump overboard, when we held up bits of iron and other things as presents. They suffered us to come near them; finding us friends instead of enemies, they offered us water and wine made from the Palm Tree, which possesses most an excellent flavor. Those who had considered themselves very fortunate in escaping, came back bringing fowls and palm wine which they readily exchanged for our bits of old iron. Those trifles were considered by them as possessing great value. They would hang them about their persons and dance and jump about with greatest delight. Soon as they could be made to understand the nature of our visit, they sent a man withus, who took us a little way around to a most beautiful stream of pure cold water. Dismissing our pilot we stood for our vessel which was not then visible, thinking to get the water the next morning. We pulled out of the harbor and saw our vessel hull down as it is termed, that is, nothing to be seen but the topmasts. Scarce a ripple was to be felt upon the water, so perfectly glass-like did it appear. The sun was just setting in all its splendor, casting its long beautiful rays upon the still waters, rendering our situation certainly a most enviable one. Soon as the sun's last flickering ray died upon the water, the moon pale and beautiful gladdened our hearts with her gentle rays. Caring but little to leave this fascinating spot, we pulled leisurely for the ship, reaching her at half-past ten.The next morning we stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The natives in great numbers came on board, wishing to exchange more of their fowls and wine for the poor, worthless bits of iron and other things, which we possessed. We noticed one with both hands cut off at his wrists; and were informed, if we rightly interpreted their signs, that he was a thief, and that was one of their modes of punishment. In wishing to come on board, he threw his arms around the hauling part of the fore sheet, (a rope hanging at the ship's side) which not being fast in-board gave way with his weight, and he fell into the sea. Not one of his fellows tendered him the helping hand. Some looked on without betraying the least emotion, while others with ribaldry and mirth saw the water close over him forever. He seemed to be an object of universal contempt. Whether his thievingpropensities were coupled with other misdeeds I know not.Having obtained our supply of water and a goodly supply of provision and wine from the natives, we were allowed liberty on shore. Taking our guns with us we shot many birds. Soon as they fell the females would spring for them and pull out the largest feathers, with which to decorate their heads. In one excursion we found an old man lying on the sand suffering most intensely under the malady common to that and other African islands, also known in Brazil and other parts of South America, called the Chiger. It is supposed to be caused by an insect which deposits its eggs under the toes of the bare feet of the natives while walking in the sand, causing an inflammation, which if treated unskillfully produces an incurable sore. I have seen those with their legs swollen nearly as large as the body. The situation of the old man referred to was frightful beyond conception; his lips and cheeks were most entirely gone, leaving his jaw bone and teeth bare; his tongue and pallet, together with the roof of his mouth were also nearly consumed, rendering him speechless. With the greatest difficulty he could drag himself along; the most disagreeable odor filled the atmosphere around; no hand of sympathy was extended to him; alone and friendless he was left to die.On our return we passed that way, and found his sorrows had an end. By the blood on the ground and marks of violence on the body, we were satisfied his miseries were brought to an end by human hands.Went on board and stood for Princes Island, which lies about 150 miles to the southward. Saw a largesail to the windward; at once supposed her to be a British man-of-war, whose duty it is to guard against any depredations being committed by slavers or others on any foreign coast. Our captain knowing his vessel presented rather a suspicious appearance, being rigged and painted in a rakish manner, and wishing to have a little sport, made sail, as if fearing such company. This had the desired effect. They immediately set her studding sails and gave chase. The captain, to continue the joke, crowded all sail, which came near proving a joke of a serious nature to him, for the Englishman perceiving this, bellowed out in tones there was no mistaking, as a signal for us to heave to. This being unheeded, was quickly succeeded by one that told us full well of the fatal consequences of longer sporting with them. We hove to and suffered her to come up with us, and when within hail, she asked the usual questions, Who are you? Where bound? &c., &c., lowered her boat, came on board, demanded the ship's papers, also the reason why we did not heave to at the first gun; was told that at that moment a spout was seen from aloft, and it was determined to find out what kind of whale it was, found it to be a hump-back, and there she blowsagain. Fortunately for him a whale of that kind happened to come in sight and aided much in carrying out the joke. Finding our situation different from what he feared, he made himself very agreeable, and spent some time with us; after exchanging Oil for Rum we soon parted. In a few days squared away for Princes Island, whither we were bound; entering the harbor, found the Man-of-war lying there; had liberty on shore; spent a few days very pleasantly indeed. Got under weigh again, boundfor the West Indies, with the heaviest press of sail we were able to carry. It was our intention to sight Barbadoes and run down to St. Vincent for our ship's supplies. The wind being very fair we overrun our reckoning. The night also setting very dark and foggy, we were not aware of our proximity to Barbadoes until we found our vessel going at the rate of ten knots in the midst of shipping. With greatest despatch the helm was put "hard-a-port," the studding-sail tacks and braces let go, and the vessel brought to the wind without the least harm, though great was the danger. Stood out of the harbor and made St. Vincent. After a voyage of forty days came to anchor at a small harbor commonly called the Bottle and Glass, so called from a large round rock at its mouth, which in the sun's reflection very much resembles in its general appearance a huge blue glass bottle.It was exceedingly pleasant after a long voyage to again get liberty on shore. The captain advanced us money which we spent among the natives, giving but little restraint to our passions. We were left on shore one night for some reason with no means of getting on board, also without money and without shelter, for soon as our money was gone, it was no object for the people to shelter us. Some of the company proposed swimming, and suiting the action to the words, stripped their clothes, lashed them to their backs and started, but soon returned, sick of the undertaking. There being a house (if the huts of the natives can be called houses) near where we had spent some of our money, we concluded to try their generosity. We knocked, but received no answer. It was then proposed to wait upon ourselvesin. I was chosen leader; laid hold of the boards on the side of the house, sung a song, and with the chorus giving a "long pull, a strong pull and a pull altogether," away she came, and we walked in. (It will be borne in mind the houses are built slightly indeed, consequently our task was not very heavy.) On our entrance, the old lady yelled out "My God, ye Buckra (white) man no stop come in do (door) pull'e side house down."As I had been chosen leader, or captain, I found the liquor, which was in a huge jug, and took possession of that, set myself on the floor by the jug and dealt out as their several cases demanded. There we spent the night, singing, dancing, and as a common accompaniment, drinking.With the morning came the constable, who took us off to jail with as little ceremony as we walked into the hut. The captain hearing of our confinement came and paid five dollars each, as a fine, and took us back, we thinking that we had one of the finest times imaginable.Got ready for sea the next day, called all hands, found one man missing. What became of him we never knew. We cruised about the islands two or three weeks for whales; the same poor success which we experienced on other grounds attended us here, and sick at heart we turned our course towards New Bedford, with only 250 barrels Oil, when we should have had full ship. Our ship was capable of holding 750 barrels.In the gulf stream we encountered a tremendous gale from the north east, which contending with the strong current which ran in a contrary direction, (from the south west,) caused a very high and irregular sea. Weshortened sail and ran the vessel as long as possible. The night set in so extremely dark that we were unable to distinguish one object from another, only by the lightning's flash. I remained at the wheel from eight to twelve, P. M. At one time a heavy sea suddenly struck us upon our quarter, breaking the davits, (by which the boats are hoisted) sweeping the boat across the deck, bursting the bulwarks off and buried me up to the middle in water. I felt as if I was alone upon deck, for surely no one could possibly be there who was not previously lashed. The wretchedness of the situation the pen cannot picture. At length I felt a hand laid heavily upon me, at the same time the well known voice of the captain cries, "who has the helm?" "Bill, sir," says I. An extra man was offered me at the helm if I wished. This I declined, feeling desirous of preserving the strength of the crew, if possible, for greater emergencies. I left the helm at twelve o'clock and went below. At four all hands were called to make sail, the wind having abated, though the sea rolled so very heavily, that the vessel was in great danger of being dismasted. At noon all possible sail was made. During the night we saw Cape Hatteras light, found ourselves rather nearer than prudence would permit, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the known world, hauled our wind and stood off from the shore. We crowded all sail possible, and reached New Bedford about the first of April, having been absent nine months.No sooner had I stepped on my own native soil, than home with all its allurements presented itself to my mind. I well knew the joy my return would bring to those patents from whose roof I had thus long absentedmyself, and I was almost persuaded to forsake the sailor's hard and bitter lot and turn again to the home of my youth, and wander no more. But then my mind would revert to the reception I met with on my last return, and I resolved to redeem the pledge made when I last left home.Not having cleared my expenses I was left with no alternative save going to sea again, and I engaged to go on board the same vessel again, under the command of Charles Hammen who was mate of her the previous voyage. While the ship was fitting for the voyage I run one trip to Baltimore, on board the brig Henry, Captain Taber, mate, Coleman, with oil. Returned laden with flour. This incident in itself considered is of little note; but the circumstance of my becoming acquainted with those men, particularly the mate, afterwards, as will be seen, proved of the greatest importance to me.CHAPTER III.Sail from New Bedford. The Crew are put upon allowance. Reach the Azores. Proceed to the Brazil Banks. Return to the African coast. Great fear arises from breakers. Prove to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives who come to the ship. Their awful appearance. Serious difficulty arises with one of the crew, who is put on shore. Cruise about for whale. Trade with the natives of St. Thomas. Procure two monkeys, who render much service in killing cockroaches. The treatment given the crew at Fernando Po. Kindly interference of British officers. The crew are obliged to catch their own provision. Sail for home. I take a few flying fish, which the captain claims as his. Threw them into the sea. Great rage of the Captain. Reach New Bedford. The sailors leave the Captain to secure the sails.With prosperous winds we cleared the harbor. Spread all canvass to the breeze, and soon our native land was seen only in the distance. For a length of time, every thing passed finely and promised a happy voyage; but we were doomed to disappointment and sorrow. Our commander, conscious of the authority vested in him, put it in force. We were first put upon allowance of only one pound of bread, and one half pound of meat. This caused but little murmuring; each confined his sorrows to his own bosom, and did his master's bidding with the strictest care; and would have remained so had our sorrows ended there. The master was often heard to say it would not do to give us even as great an allowanceas he then did, for we were, like highly fed horses, quite unmanageable.We touched at the Azores, or western islands, and took on a fresh supply of provisions—such as potatoes, onions, &c. Thence to the isle of Saul, of the Cape Verdes group, where we spent a day and night; got a quantity of fish and sea-fowl eggs. At St. Mary's, of the same group, we proposed leaving one of the crew who was sick on board; but the consul would not receive him, consequently, we were obliged to keep him, and do the best we could. Here we were attended with the same poor success that had characterized this and the former voyage.Sick at heart at our poor luck, we steered for the coast of Brazil. We made the coast about the first of January, where we cruised until the last of the month, without any profit at all; and again squared away for the African coast. Made the island of Anoben, which lies to the southwest of St. Thomas, and also belongs to Portugal. At this place we learned, by an American trader which we spoke, of a large company of pirates who had been driven ashore a few months previous. They had a large boat, and lay secreted in some of the rivers or creeks until the near approach of some ship, when they would rush out from their hiding place, and seize upon the ship before the crew were fully aware of their danger. They had already secured to themselves many valuable cargoes. As might be expected from receiving such information, we gave the island a "wide berth;" cruised away to the northward, and touched at Princes island. We cruised among the group for a length of time.One night, in the gulf of Biafra, between Fernando Po and the main land, we as usual had shortened sail. The current drifted us nearer shore than we were aware. The man aloft cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." The lead was cast, and no bottom found. The man aloft again cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." Again the lead was cast 100 fathoms; yet it found no resting place. "Breakers off the lee beam" was the continued cry. On a still nearer approach, we found the reported breakers to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives, singing and shouting loudly, coming with great speed towards our vessel. Considering them enemies, we set about making our defence as strong as possible with the poor supply of arms usually carried on whale ships. When within about 300 yards they stopped, seemingly in consultation. Soon, one of their number set off for the vessel. When he came alongside, we showed him our arms. He held up elephant teeth; signifying that he came as a trader, and not an enemy. We suffered him to come on board. He was a very large man, seeming to possess great muscular strength, and nearly naked. In his ears, nose, around his neck, wrists, and ankles, were gold and ivory rings. Going on the quarter deck, he gave a sharp, shrill whistle as a signal to his comrades; in an instant every paddle was in motion, beating time to their wild songs. Soon they were at our ship's sides. We would allow only a few on board at a time. Never, in the whole course of my wanderings, have I seen man presenting so terrific an appearance,—they were scarred from head to foot in a most brutal manner. Whether this was done in actual wars or not I am unable to determine;but, as they were nearly all so, I thought it must have been done among themselves, that they might appear thus frightful. Theirteeth, which were of the purest white, were filed sharp, resembling the teeth of a saw. We traded with them, taking a few teeth, and a small quantity of gold dust. The breeze freshened a little, and they left us. The first one that came was the last to leave. After the others were a little way from the ship he threw his canoe (which he brought on board when he came) over, then jumped after it, and pulled for the shore.We lay five days becalmed within a few miles of the shore. Sometimes towing our vessel with boats, at other times, getting a little breeze, we would take all possible advantage of it. Still we gained but little. At last the wind favoring us, we conquered the current, and stood away for St. Thomas, where we went on shore. An Irishman, one of the number, who was naturally a very bad man, procured some spirits with a shirt which he took with him, which rendered him a perfect demon. According to his own statement, he had been a term of years on board of pirate vessels. At any rate he had had many a skirmish, for he was literally scarred from head to foot. When the boat came along side, he called the Captain many hard names of which he took but little notice, knowing his situation, and went below to be clear of him. Jack took a pike, (an instrument of pointed iron, used to handle blubber with,) and threw it with great force at a pig. Missing his aim, it lodged in the bulwarks. The Captain heard the noise, and came immediately upon deck to learn the cause. On inquiring who threw it, Jack stepped up,and promptly said, "I, sir, and what are you a going to do about it." The Captain ordered him put in irons; but the officers found it no small undertaking, for he was quite at home in such skirmishes. He went below, and endeavored to influence the crew to join him in seizing the officers, and taking command of the vessel; but in this he was unsuccessful. The cook informed the officers of his proceedings, and they seized upon all of the arms, spades, boarding knives, &c., belonging to the vessel, and remained under arms during the night. Then most vividly must the treatment the Captain had given his crew come before his mind. He had done nothing to gain their confidence and respect, but rather to the contrary, much to excite their hatred towards him. At the moment when he most needed their sympathy and aid, he had nothing to expect, or even hope at their hands, but stern retaliation. Pent up, as he was, within the narrow confines of a whale ship, where the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, knowing of no one among his crew whom he could call his friend, must have rendered his situation one not in the least degree enviable. But hardened and reckless as all sailors are usually called, his crew were actuated by higher and better motives. The presumptuous insinuations of Jack were instantly repelled. No one for a single moment entertaining the idea. Rather than raise a hand against him, to whom they had pledged their fidelity, although he had been guilty of a nonconformance on his part, they, one and all, would even suffer the horrors of starvation, which, by his decree, were then seemingly before them. It was hoped and expected that this moment of trial being over, he woulddo something to ameliorate our condition, and secure to himself that confidence so highly necessary to every commander.The next morning Jack was called upon quarter deck. The Captain asked him what he meant by such abuse as he had given the previous evening. He, in reply, shaking his clenched fist in his face, said he had made food for sharks of many a better man than him, and such would be his fate should he remain long on board. His choice was given him between public flogging and leaving the ship. He chose to be set on shore, saying he was not born to be flogged on board a whale ship, threatening to kill the Captain before he left.A boat was lowered away under charge of the second mate, into which he was ordered with his effects, the Captain and other officers standing by under arms. When we reached the shore he bade each an adieu in turn; shouldered his bundle, and started for the woods; and we knew no more of him.We remained at the island several days. Bought several monkeys of the small kind, which, beside the amusement they afforded, rendered themselves of much service in ridding the ship of cockroaches with which it was swarmed. The service thus rendered the sailor proves to them their own destruction, for they cannot live many weeks after eating them. The cockroach is a very troublesome insect which gets into vessels, and oftentimes attacks the sleeping sailor, eating the dead skin from the feet and hands. The bite is attended with much pain, leaving the flesh tender for a long time.Some difficulty arose between the officers and crewwhich terminated in hard words. The Captain swearing that, as our leader was gone, we should feel his power. Our already small allowance was lessened one half. This our natures could not submit to. When we were wanted to go in the boats we were scarce able to work the oars. This called out the worst abuse the Captain could invent. We made Fernando Po, an English island, and took on wood, which we did by carrying it on our shoulders, and wading in water to our middle, a man being placed over us, who exercised his authority with scarce less severity than a Brazilian slave driver. An English man-of-war being at anchor there, and seeing us thus driven, sent her boats along side, and ordered us all to our ship. The mate, who had us in charge, feeling affronted that his orders should be put at nought, hesitated about complying with the order; but, seeing their determination to be obeyed, ordered us to the ship. A lieutenant accompanied us; and, when on board, sent other hands to discharge the boats, and ordered our clothes changed soon as possible. After severely reproving the Captain for thus exposing our lives in that climate, and in the sickly season, too, he left the ship.The next day we were allowed liberty on shore; passed a burial ground, and saw eight or ten open graves, fitted receptacles for the victims of yellow fever, who were falling almost momentarily. Four months previous to this time, a regiment of 850 soldiers were sent from England, of which only fifteen then remained; and of the thirty females who accompanied them, none were left to tell their sad fate. Some of the scenes to which I was witness, were horrid beyond degree. Itseemed to attack more generally, and with greater virulence, those of intemperate habits; and amid such scenes men would go to the intoxicating bowl, lay down to move no more, and, in a few hours, be in a state of putrefaction. I saw on one occasion a funeral procession (of a boatswain who had died intoxicated) which consisted of only six men, and all of them drunk, staggering their way along to the grave-yard. In ascending a small hill the coffin fell from their shoulders; the corpse broke its rude boards, and rolled part way down the hill. They carried the coffin to the top, then placed the body in, and with oaths and imprecations went on their way.Gladly we left this place so wretched, and proceeded to St. Thomas. Took on a few yams, hogs, &c. Spoke a trader, of whom we procured a quantity of dried turtle; but little of it fell to the poor seamen. We still remained upon allowance. The fear which the officers were under in the affair of Jack had entirely subsided, leaving our situation no better than before.A new barrel of beef was opened one day for the officers which was much hurt. It was thought to be good enough for the seamen, and another opened for the officers. The meat when cooked was worse than before, and we presumed to show it to the Captain, who flew into a rage, and said if he could get any that was worse we should eat it. We got some lines and caught a few fish. The Captain finding we were like to live well that way, took our allowance of pork from us, which obliged us to eat our fish boiled, and without salt. Thus we spent seven months, most anxiously wishing for a termination of the voyage.We stood away for the Azores. The Captain wishing to get a man to fill the place of the one left, tried to steal a Portuguese soldier; had him secreted on board; but was found out, and fined $200. This enraged him, and severity was our lot in consequence. His haste in leaving that place was great. We had been out only about twelve hours, when heavy squalls from the northeast struck us. The wind increased. We lay to, under a storm try-sail, fourteen days. During this time we were kept picking oakum, having but six hours rest. The Captain endeavored the while to teach us the value of true, heart-felt thankfulness. As the wind abated, we spread sail for New Bedford. Happy, indeed, were we to learn that home was our next point to be reached. We were kept on allowance during the passage which occupied 60 days. We caught and eat porpoises to satisfy the demands of hunger. Those acquainted with the article can form some idea of our misery.One night, in the gulf stream, a number of flying fish came on board, which I took, and was preparing for my breakfast, when the Captain came along, saying "you have had fine luck. Think you have got enough for my breakfast?" and at the same time called the cook to take them. I seized the pail and threw them overboard, "saying you shall not have them any how." His rage knew no bounds; he called me every thing which he could find words to utter. I reminded him of the speedy termination of the voyage. He could find no way to punish this insolence as he called it. Finally, he set us all scrubbing the deck with sand, although it rained so hard that it kept one man constantly putting it on.Stopping the scupper, the rolling of the vessel would wash the water and sand from one side to the other. We were obliged to rub from 7 to 12 o'clock; then to dinner, (if boiled porpoise and bread can be called dinner,) back again to scrubbing, and thus we finished the day.The next day we spoke the ship Boston, Capt. Reed, of Fair Haven, bound to Brazil, whaling; they offered us provisions, which our Captain refused, probably thinking it economy for his men to catch their own. In a few days we saw land, took on a pilot; soon came to anchor. As is always the case, seamen's duty is done the moment the anchor is let go, though they usually stow the sails; but the moment the anchor was cast we took our things, put them in a boat to go ashore, leaving the sails hanging to the yards. The Captain begged of us to stow them. We told him we had been with him long enough, and were now happily free from his authority; and that it would give us much pleasure to see him stow them himself. He was soon leaving the ship himself; for the owners came on board, and ordered him, and all that he had, out of the ship immediately, or it would go overboard. Thus terminated my second voyage with still poorer success than my former one, having taken only 150 barrels sperm, and 10 black fish oil, after a voyage of nearly 13 months. This voyage, like the first, left me in debt, and with no other way, seemingly, than to again try and see what another voyage would do. I went to the boarding house without a cent in my pocket.CHAPTER IV.Sail on board the Huntress, bound for the Pacific, on a whaling Expedition. Encounter a heavy Storm. A Man lost. Reach the Falklands. Description of them. Storm at the Cape. Icebergs. Island of Juan Fernandez. Arrive at the Sandwich Islands. A Sketch of them.I shipped myself on board the Huntress, Capt. Post, then fitting for a cruise to the Pacific. We set sail from New Bedford, 1832, August 3d. About the middle of the month a violent gale arose from the southeast. We stowed our top-gallant-sails; reefed our top-sails; furled our main course, and stood to the eastward. The gale increasing, we were obliged to furl our fore and mizen top-sails, jib and spankers, and heave our ship to under close reefed main-top-sail, fore-sail, and fore-top-mast, main and mizen stay-sail. Thus we ran many hours. The wind subsiding in a degree, enabled us to run quarterly with the wind, with fore-top-mast studding-sail set. Most of the hands were below when the ship fetched a lurch and roll at the same time, with a head sea, carrying the fore-top-mast in three pieces, and the top-gallant-mast; springing the main and mizen top-mast; throwing one man who was aloft into the water. A boat was lowered, but no trace of him found save his hat. By the blood on the rigging, it was thought he received serious injury before he reached the water. All hands were called, and the wreck cleared fast as possible.Most of our crew were new hands; and out of 30 men only six were found who could go aloft with any degree of usefulness in rough weather. Having spare spars, we were soon rigged again. Made the Azores. Took one whale from which we got 60 barrels of oil. We also replaced our spars; got potatoes, onions, oranges, &c., from them. We touched at Cape Verdes; got hogs, goats, &c.; then shaped our course for the Falkland islands, "so denominated by the English, in 1639, in honor, it is supposed of Lord Viscount Falkland. The soil is bad, and the climate is disagreeable, and the shores are beaten with perpetual storms. Nothing but reeds and moss cover the ground. The sky is perpetually concealed from view by thick fogs. The extreme cold cannot be alleviated by fire, as there is neither wood or coal; and even a ship in port is covered with constant snow. The shores are frequented, however, by considerable quantities of sea-fowl and fish. The penguins, called swans by the Spaniards, supply a scanty and miserable food. Walruses, and others of the seal kind, abound."The history of the disputes between Great Britain and Spain, concerning these miserable islands, furnishes another of the evidences of the necessity of the study of geography among statesmen, as nothing but a complete geographical ignorance concerning them, could have raised such an unnecessary alarm on both sides."We left the Falklands to double the cape. A few days after, a heavy wind arose from the north. We shortened sail as the gale increased, until we come down to close reefed main-top-sail, scudding the ship for fourdays. The sea ran most fearfully high, throwing the water in at one side, and putting it out at the other. While the ship was thus laboring, we were ordered to lighten her top hamper, by sending down the fore and mizen top-gallant and main royal yards. While another and myself were in the act of lowering the main royal yard the ship rolled very quick and heavy. I missed my hold and falling, struck on the main-top-sail reef tackle, which was very tight and fast. I struck on my side, turned a complete somerset, fell again, and thrust my legs between the shrouds and ratline, and there hung. The mate hearing the rigging shake, cried out, "who is there?" I answered some way, scarce knowing how. He, knowing my voice, came running to help me to the deck, when I fainted and fell. He picked me up, and placed me on the after hatchway. At that moment a tremendous sea struck the vessel, carrying the mate and myself into the lee scupper. Assistance being at hand, we were taken out, and I carried to the cabin. It was sometime before I came to my senses. Found three of my ribs broken, and bruised much elsewhere. I was carried into the forecastle, where I remained suffering most extremely for a long time; and have hardly, I may say, recovered from the effects to the present day. The gale continued with unabated fury. The latitude being nearly run out, the ship was hove to with her head to the west. There we lay drifting four weeks. Fell in with mountains of ice, commonly known as icebergs, of vast dimensions, and of almost every form. An estimate was made of the size of one supposed to be the largest seen. It seemingly was an hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high; and, as is a fact,the volume of ice is to that of sea water as 10 to 9, consequently the ice, which rises above the water, is to that which sinks below as 1 to 9. Then allowing this mass to have been 150 feet above the water, and of regular shape, it would sink below the surface about 1350 feet, making a huge mass of some 1500 feet high. Capt. Cook, in his voyage in 1773, describes one as being 600 feet high above the water, making, as he estimated, 5,400 feet to be its entire height. "And yet," says Cook, "the sea broke over them." They exhibited for a few moments a view very pleasing to the eye; but a sense of danger soon filled the mind with horror; for had the ship struck against the weather side of one of those islands, when the sea ran high, she would instantly have been dashed in pieces.At length these islands became as familiar to those on board as the clouds and the sea. Whenever a strong reflection of white was seen on the skirts of the sky, near the horizon, then ice was sure to be encountered. Notwithstanding which, the substance was not entirely white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the sea, with a most beautiful sapphirine, or rather beryline blue, evidently reflected from the water. This blue color sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the surface, and was probably produced by particles of sea water, which had been dashed against the mass in tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into its interstices. In the evening, the sun setting just behind one of these masses, tinged its edges with gold, and reflected on the entire mass a beautiful suffusion of purple. In the larger masses were frequently observed shades or casts of white, lying above each other in strata, sometimesof six inches, and at other times of a foot in height.This appearance seemed to confirm the opinion entertained relative to the increase and accumulation of such huge masses of ice, by heavy falls of snow at different intervals; for snow being of various kinds, small grained, and large grained, in light feathery locks, &c., the various degrees of compactness may account for the various colors of strata. The approximation of several fields of ice, of different magnitudes produces a very singular phenomenon.The smaller of these masses are forced out of the water, and thrown on the larger ones, until at length an aggregate is formed of a tremendous height. These accumulated bodies of ice float in the sea like so many rugged mountains, and are continually increased in height by the freezing of the spray of the sea, and the melting of the snow which falls on them.The collision of great fields of ice, in high latitudes is attended by a noise, which for a time, takes away the sense of hearing any thing beside; and that of the smaller fields, with a grinding of unspeakable horror.The water which dashes against the mountainous ice, freezes into an infinite variety of forms, and presents to the admiring view of the voyager, ideal towns, streets, churches, steeples, and almost every form which imagination can picture to itself.Our course was very much impeded by immense fields of low ice, the extent of which could scarcely be seen; these low fields, called the meadows, are the sporting grounds of seals, and often hundreds are seen at a time frolicking on them. After passing six weeksin dodging the ice, the wind favored us, and we shaped our course for the island of Juan Fernandez, which lies off the coast of Chili, about 350 miles, is inhabited by a few Spaniards, and is famous as having been the solitary residence of Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, whose singular adventure gave rise to a novel known as the adventures of Robinson Crusoe. We spent a few days on shore getting goats, potatoes, fruit, &c., for the ship; from thence we stood for the Sandwich Islands, and came to anchor at Hawaii about the first of April.Stewart in his Geographical sketch of them, says:—"The Sandwich Islands are situated in the Pacific ocean, between 18° 50' and 22° 20' north latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15', west longitude from Greenwich. They are about 2800 miles distant from the coast of Mexico, on the east; about 5000 from the shores of China, on the west; and 2700 from the Society Islands on the south."The Islands are ten in number, stretching, as may be seen from a chart, in a flattened curve, E. S. E., and W. N. W. in the following order: Hawaii, Maui, Molokini, Kahulawe, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai, Nihan, and Kaula."Hawaii, the most southern and eastern island, is the largest of the group. It is about ninety-seven miles long, and seventy-eight broad, covering a surface of 4000 square miles, and containing 85,000 inhabitants."Maui lies northwest from Hawaii, and is separated from it by a channel twenty-four miles wide. This island formed by two mountainous peninsulas, connected by a narrow neck of low land, is forty-eight miles long, and at its greatest width twenty-nine mileswide. It covers about 600 square miles, and is supposed to have a population of 20,000 people."Molokini is a barren rock, rising only fifteen or twenty feet above the level of the ocean, at a distance of four or five miles from the western shore of the southern peninsular of Maui. Kahulawe lies in the same direction from Maui, six or eight miles beyond Molokini. It is only eleven miles long, and eight broad, and has but few inhabitants."Lanai is situated twenty miles northwest from Kahulawe, and ten or twelve miles directly west from the northern peninsula of Maui. It is seventeen miles long and nine broad, covering about 110 square miles, with a population of 2000 or 3000."Molokai lies west-north-west from Maui, and is separated from it by a channel ten miles wide. A passage of about the same width divides it on the south from Lanai. Molokai is forty miles long and seven broad, covering 170 square miles, and containing three or four thousand inhabitants."Oahu lies twenty-seven miles northwest from Molokai; is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-three in breadth, with a surface of 520 square miles, and a population of 20,000. It affords the best harbor in the group, and is the most fertile and beautiful of the islands."Kauai is seventy-five miles northwest from Oahu. It is thirty-three miles long, and twenty-eight broad, covering 520 square miles, and has about 10,000 inhabitants."Nihan lies southwest from Kauai fifteen miles, and is twenty miles long and seven broad. The number of itsinhabitants is small. Kaula, situated seventeen miles southwest of Nihan, like Molokini, is an uninhabited rock, visited only for the eggs of sea fowl which frequent it in great numbers, and there hatch their young."These islands were discovered in the year 1778, by Captain James Cook, of the British Navy, and from him in honor of Earl Sandwich, the first lord of the admiralty, received the name by which they are at present designated. The tragical and lamented death of this celebrated navigator at Hawaii, in the succeeding year, caused their existence to be made known to the civilized world, with an excitement of feeling that deeply stamped the event on the public mind. No foreign ship visited the group again until the year 1786, when the ill-fated La Perouse touched at Maui; and about the same time two vessels, engaged in the trade of the North-west Coast, procured refreshments at the island of Oahu. These were early succeeded by several others; and in 1792 and 1794, by the expedition under the command of Vancouver."After having secured a sufficient quantity of provision, we were allowed liberty on shore; this liberty to one who had been shut up within the confines of a ship, was indeed exhilarating.In one of our rambles we fell in with a native, with whom we bargained for a dinner. He immediately sat himself about it. When cooked, it was served up in a calabash, or gourd; we seated ourselves upon the ground, around the dishes, and commenced operation; all were particularly fond of the meat which he had furnished, yet knew not what it was; on inquiry, we were told in broken English, "poy-poy," at the sametime he gave a most knowing kind of a laugh. We then half suspected foul play, and again sternly interrogating him as to the kind of meat, received in reply, "cow, cow," which signified dog. Each looked at the other, scarce knowing what to do. Some began vomiting; as for myself, I relished it, while supposing it something else; and at that late hour thought it folly to make much ado about it. The joke was often referred to quite to the discomfiture of those upon whom it was forced.We were next allowed liberty of forty-eight hours on shore, which we improved by visiting the volcano of Kilauea.As this volcano was visited in the year 1825, by Lord Byron, S. C. Stewart, and other distinguished and scientific gentlemen, accompanied by the officers and crew of his majesty's ship Blonde, with an escort of one hundred natives, I would refer my readers to a description given by Stewart, believing it to be the most graphic ever given, which will be found in the following chapter.

CHAPTER II.Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them. Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes on shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treatment offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. Deceive a British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the Brazil Banks. Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vincent. Great frolic with the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail for N. Bedford. Storm in the Gulf Stream. Arrive at New Bedford.On the 17th of July, 1830, the brig Partheon, Capt. Maxfield, weighed anchor, spread her sails to the breeze, and fast the land receded from view. I sat on deck and watched the last hill sink away in the dim distance, and the breach forever increasing between me and my native land. Then the joys of home, a mother's kind care, and a sister's fond love rushed upon my mind and I half regretted the step I had taken. For their sakes I did regret, but when the remembrance of that ill-fated morning came to my mind, I sprang to my feet determined to share my joys and sorrows with none known to me by kindred or other ties. Striving to forget the past, I went to my duty. We stood for the Azores, where we took in water and provision. Those Islands lie between Europe and America, between 36° and 39° N. Lat. and contain about 1200 square miles, and belong to the Portuguese; have a clear sky and a salubrious air, and are extremely fertile, producing wine and various fruits in great abundance;are nearly free from venomous reptiles; are supposed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. Our stay was short; stood for the Cape Verde Islands, about 15° N. Lat., off the African Coast 300 miles; are about twenty in number, though many of them are of small note, being only barren rocks uninhabitable; one of them is a mere volcano, called Fogo.St. Jago is 150 miles in circumference, and the most fruitful, producing Indian Corn, Sugar, Cotton, Oranges, Limes, &c. A great trade is carried on in the article of Madder, which grows in great abundance among the rocks.Praya, situated on the easterly side of the group, has a beautiful harbor, and is much visited by vessels for refreshments.An immense business is done at the Island of Mayo, another of the same group, in making salt from the salt water, by the heat of the sun. At Spring tides it is received into a basin, or pan, formed by a sand bank, which runs for several miles along the coast.The salt costs nothing, except the raking of it together, and taking it to the boats, which is on asses, and at a very cheap rate.While off the Isle of St. Jago we encountered a tremendous squall, which came near throwing us upon the rocks, and would, had not we had a most skillful commander. After the wind abated we repaired the slight damage we received; cruised for whales, but with the poorest success; stood for the Brazil Banks, hoping to be more fortunate; touched at the Island of St. Thomas, which with Princes Island and Fernando Po, constitute what are termed the Guinea Group. The two first, St.Thomas and Princes Island, belong to the Portuguese; Fernando Po is occupied by the British. At Princes Island we were allowed liberty on shore; that is a privilege of one day on shore granted to one half of the crew at a time, while the remaining ones attend to the ship's duties.We remained about these islands a few days, taking three whales only. This was about the season of the year for violent tornadoes, which greatly impeded our operations, being constantly obliged to be on lookout, and in readiness for their approach. On whale ships sail is usually shortened at sundown and the vessel hove to under stern sails. One night while we were laying to, a violent squall suddenly arose, giving us hardly a moment's warning. The rain fell in torrents, the lightning played most vividly, which rendered the darkness still deeper. In executing the order, "haul down the fore-top-mast stay-sail," the halyards became entangled. I sprang upon the windlass to extricate them; at that moment the lightning struck, shivering the fore-top-gallant-mast and fore-top-mast into a thousand atoms. The shock was sensibly felt throughout the ship, and most severely so by myself, leaving me senseless for a number of hours.Shaped our course for St. Thomas island, where we replaced our spars with such as the country afforded, being quite an inferior article, heavy and very brittle. Our vessel being repaired, we stood for the same ground again, where we cruised two months, entirely disheartened, by our bad luck, only taking two whales.Our water getting quite low we stood for the British Settlement on Fernando Po. We deemed it unwise togo on shore there on account of the dreadful sickness then prevailing among the inhabitants. We sailed around the island till we came to a little harbor, lowered sail, and searched for water. The boat was manned by five oars-men with the captain. As we came around a point of land, we came suddenly upon several negro families loitering upon the beach entirely naked. They did not perceive us until we were close in upon them, when they gave a loud whoop or yell which almost deafened us, and took to their heels. We ransacked their huts, found they possessed, and perhaps needed, but little, living by fishing principally.We searched in vain for water, took to our boats again and pulled along till we came to a little bay known as North West Bay, where we saw a number of natives fishing. We kept close in shore for fear of frightening them. Before we could cut off their retreat, they saw us, gave one yell and most assiduously did they pull for the shore. We overtook one canoe; they seemed very much frightened, and made attempts to jump overboard, when we held up bits of iron and other things as presents. They suffered us to come near them; finding us friends instead of enemies, they offered us water and wine made from the Palm Tree, which possesses most an excellent flavor. Those who had considered themselves very fortunate in escaping, came back bringing fowls and palm wine which they readily exchanged for our bits of old iron. Those trifles were considered by them as possessing great value. They would hang them about their persons and dance and jump about with greatest delight. Soon as they could be made to understand the nature of our visit, they sent a man withus, who took us a little way around to a most beautiful stream of pure cold water. Dismissing our pilot we stood for our vessel which was not then visible, thinking to get the water the next morning. We pulled out of the harbor and saw our vessel hull down as it is termed, that is, nothing to be seen but the topmasts. Scarce a ripple was to be felt upon the water, so perfectly glass-like did it appear. The sun was just setting in all its splendor, casting its long beautiful rays upon the still waters, rendering our situation certainly a most enviable one. Soon as the sun's last flickering ray died upon the water, the moon pale and beautiful gladdened our hearts with her gentle rays. Caring but little to leave this fascinating spot, we pulled leisurely for the ship, reaching her at half-past ten.The next morning we stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The natives in great numbers came on board, wishing to exchange more of their fowls and wine for the poor, worthless bits of iron and other things, which we possessed. We noticed one with both hands cut off at his wrists; and were informed, if we rightly interpreted their signs, that he was a thief, and that was one of their modes of punishment. In wishing to come on board, he threw his arms around the hauling part of the fore sheet, (a rope hanging at the ship's side) which not being fast in-board gave way with his weight, and he fell into the sea. Not one of his fellows tendered him the helping hand. Some looked on without betraying the least emotion, while others with ribaldry and mirth saw the water close over him forever. He seemed to be an object of universal contempt. Whether his thievingpropensities were coupled with other misdeeds I know not.Having obtained our supply of water and a goodly supply of provision and wine from the natives, we were allowed liberty on shore. Taking our guns with us we shot many birds. Soon as they fell the females would spring for them and pull out the largest feathers, with which to decorate their heads. In one excursion we found an old man lying on the sand suffering most intensely under the malady common to that and other African islands, also known in Brazil and other parts of South America, called the Chiger. It is supposed to be caused by an insect which deposits its eggs under the toes of the bare feet of the natives while walking in the sand, causing an inflammation, which if treated unskillfully produces an incurable sore. I have seen those with their legs swollen nearly as large as the body. The situation of the old man referred to was frightful beyond conception; his lips and cheeks were most entirely gone, leaving his jaw bone and teeth bare; his tongue and pallet, together with the roof of his mouth were also nearly consumed, rendering him speechless. With the greatest difficulty he could drag himself along; the most disagreeable odor filled the atmosphere around; no hand of sympathy was extended to him; alone and friendless he was left to die.On our return we passed that way, and found his sorrows had an end. By the blood on the ground and marks of violence on the body, we were satisfied his miseries were brought to an end by human hands.Went on board and stood for Princes Island, which lies about 150 miles to the southward. Saw a largesail to the windward; at once supposed her to be a British man-of-war, whose duty it is to guard against any depredations being committed by slavers or others on any foreign coast. Our captain knowing his vessel presented rather a suspicious appearance, being rigged and painted in a rakish manner, and wishing to have a little sport, made sail, as if fearing such company. This had the desired effect. They immediately set her studding sails and gave chase. The captain, to continue the joke, crowded all sail, which came near proving a joke of a serious nature to him, for the Englishman perceiving this, bellowed out in tones there was no mistaking, as a signal for us to heave to. This being unheeded, was quickly succeeded by one that told us full well of the fatal consequences of longer sporting with them. We hove to and suffered her to come up with us, and when within hail, she asked the usual questions, Who are you? Where bound? &c., &c., lowered her boat, came on board, demanded the ship's papers, also the reason why we did not heave to at the first gun; was told that at that moment a spout was seen from aloft, and it was determined to find out what kind of whale it was, found it to be a hump-back, and there she blowsagain. Fortunately for him a whale of that kind happened to come in sight and aided much in carrying out the joke. Finding our situation different from what he feared, he made himself very agreeable, and spent some time with us; after exchanging Oil for Rum we soon parted. In a few days squared away for Princes Island, whither we were bound; entering the harbor, found the Man-of-war lying there; had liberty on shore; spent a few days very pleasantly indeed. Got under weigh again, boundfor the West Indies, with the heaviest press of sail we were able to carry. It was our intention to sight Barbadoes and run down to St. Vincent for our ship's supplies. The wind being very fair we overrun our reckoning. The night also setting very dark and foggy, we were not aware of our proximity to Barbadoes until we found our vessel going at the rate of ten knots in the midst of shipping. With greatest despatch the helm was put "hard-a-port," the studding-sail tacks and braces let go, and the vessel brought to the wind without the least harm, though great was the danger. Stood out of the harbor and made St. Vincent. After a voyage of forty days came to anchor at a small harbor commonly called the Bottle and Glass, so called from a large round rock at its mouth, which in the sun's reflection very much resembles in its general appearance a huge blue glass bottle.It was exceedingly pleasant after a long voyage to again get liberty on shore. The captain advanced us money which we spent among the natives, giving but little restraint to our passions. We were left on shore one night for some reason with no means of getting on board, also without money and without shelter, for soon as our money was gone, it was no object for the people to shelter us. Some of the company proposed swimming, and suiting the action to the words, stripped their clothes, lashed them to their backs and started, but soon returned, sick of the undertaking. There being a house (if the huts of the natives can be called houses) near where we had spent some of our money, we concluded to try their generosity. We knocked, but received no answer. It was then proposed to wait upon ourselvesin. I was chosen leader; laid hold of the boards on the side of the house, sung a song, and with the chorus giving a "long pull, a strong pull and a pull altogether," away she came, and we walked in. (It will be borne in mind the houses are built slightly indeed, consequently our task was not very heavy.) On our entrance, the old lady yelled out "My God, ye Buckra (white) man no stop come in do (door) pull'e side house down."As I had been chosen leader, or captain, I found the liquor, which was in a huge jug, and took possession of that, set myself on the floor by the jug and dealt out as their several cases demanded. There we spent the night, singing, dancing, and as a common accompaniment, drinking.With the morning came the constable, who took us off to jail with as little ceremony as we walked into the hut. The captain hearing of our confinement came and paid five dollars each, as a fine, and took us back, we thinking that we had one of the finest times imaginable.Got ready for sea the next day, called all hands, found one man missing. What became of him we never knew. We cruised about the islands two or three weeks for whales; the same poor success which we experienced on other grounds attended us here, and sick at heart we turned our course towards New Bedford, with only 250 barrels Oil, when we should have had full ship. Our ship was capable of holding 750 barrels.In the gulf stream we encountered a tremendous gale from the north east, which contending with the strong current which ran in a contrary direction, (from the south west,) caused a very high and irregular sea. Weshortened sail and ran the vessel as long as possible. The night set in so extremely dark that we were unable to distinguish one object from another, only by the lightning's flash. I remained at the wheel from eight to twelve, P. M. At one time a heavy sea suddenly struck us upon our quarter, breaking the davits, (by which the boats are hoisted) sweeping the boat across the deck, bursting the bulwarks off and buried me up to the middle in water. I felt as if I was alone upon deck, for surely no one could possibly be there who was not previously lashed. The wretchedness of the situation the pen cannot picture. At length I felt a hand laid heavily upon me, at the same time the well known voice of the captain cries, "who has the helm?" "Bill, sir," says I. An extra man was offered me at the helm if I wished. This I declined, feeling desirous of preserving the strength of the crew, if possible, for greater emergencies. I left the helm at twelve o'clock and went below. At four all hands were called to make sail, the wind having abated, though the sea rolled so very heavily, that the vessel was in great danger of being dismasted. At noon all possible sail was made. During the night we saw Cape Hatteras light, found ourselves rather nearer than prudence would permit, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the known world, hauled our wind and stood off from the shore. We crowded all sail possible, and reached New Bedford about the first of April, having been absent nine months.No sooner had I stepped on my own native soil, than home with all its allurements presented itself to my mind. I well knew the joy my return would bring to those patents from whose roof I had thus long absentedmyself, and I was almost persuaded to forsake the sailor's hard and bitter lot and turn again to the home of my youth, and wander no more. But then my mind would revert to the reception I met with on my last return, and I resolved to redeem the pledge made when I last left home.Not having cleared my expenses I was left with no alternative save going to sea again, and I engaged to go on board the same vessel again, under the command of Charles Hammen who was mate of her the previous voyage. While the ship was fitting for the voyage I run one trip to Baltimore, on board the brig Henry, Captain Taber, mate, Coleman, with oil. Returned laden with flour. This incident in itself considered is of little note; but the circumstance of my becoming acquainted with those men, particularly the mate, afterwards, as will be seen, proved of the greatest importance to me.

Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them. Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes on shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treatment offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. Deceive a British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the Brazil Banks. Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vincent. Great frolic with the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail for N. Bedford. Storm in the Gulf Stream. Arrive at New Bedford.

On the 17th of July, 1830, the brig Partheon, Capt. Maxfield, weighed anchor, spread her sails to the breeze, and fast the land receded from view. I sat on deck and watched the last hill sink away in the dim distance, and the breach forever increasing between me and my native land. Then the joys of home, a mother's kind care, and a sister's fond love rushed upon my mind and I half regretted the step I had taken. For their sakes I did regret, but when the remembrance of that ill-fated morning came to my mind, I sprang to my feet determined to share my joys and sorrows with none known to me by kindred or other ties. Striving to forget the past, I went to my duty. We stood for the Azores, where we took in water and provision. Those Islands lie between Europe and America, between 36° and 39° N. Lat. and contain about 1200 square miles, and belong to the Portuguese; have a clear sky and a salubrious air, and are extremely fertile, producing wine and various fruits in great abundance;are nearly free from venomous reptiles; are supposed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. Our stay was short; stood for the Cape Verde Islands, about 15° N. Lat., off the African Coast 300 miles; are about twenty in number, though many of them are of small note, being only barren rocks uninhabitable; one of them is a mere volcano, called Fogo.

St. Jago is 150 miles in circumference, and the most fruitful, producing Indian Corn, Sugar, Cotton, Oranges, Limes, &c. A great trade is carried on in the article of Madder, which grows in great abundance among the rocks.

Praya, situated on the easterly side of the group, has a beautiful harbor, and is much visited by vessels for refreshments.

An immense business is done at the Island of Mayo, another of the same group, in making salt from the salt water, by the heat of the sun. At Spring tides it is received into a basin, or pan, formed by a sand bank, which runs for several miles along the coast.

The salt costs nothing, except the raking of it together, and taking it to the boats, which is on asses, and at a very cheap rate.

While off the Isle of St. Jago we encountered a tremendous squall, which came near throwing us upon the rocks, and would, had not we had a most skillful commander. After the wind abated we repaired the slight damage we received; cruised for whales, but with the poorest success; stood for the Brazil Banks, hoping to be more fortunate; touched at the Island of St. Thomas, which with Princes Island and Fernando Po, constitute what are termed the Guinea Group. The two first, St.Thomas and Princes Island, belong to the Portuguese; Fernando Po is occupied by the British. At Princes Island we were allowed liberty on shore; that is a privilege of one day on shore granted to one half of the crew at a time, while the remaining ones attend to the ship's duties.

We remained about these islands a few days, taking three whales only. This was about the season of the year for violent tornadoes, which greatly impeded our operations, being constantly obliged to be on lookout, and in readiness for their approach. On whale ships sail is usually shortened at sundown and the vessel hove to under stern sails. One night while we were laying to, a violent squall suddenly arose, giving us hardly a moment's warning. The rain fell in torrents, the lightning played most vividly, which rendered the darkness still deeper. In executing the order, "haul down the fore-top-mast stay-sail," the halyards became entangled. I sprang upon the windlass to extricate them; at that moment the lightning struck, shivering the fore-top-gallant-mast and fore-top-mast into a thousand atoms. The shock was sensibly felt throughout the ship, and most severely so by myself, leaving me senseless for a number of hours.

Shaped our course for St. Thomas island, where we replaced our spars with such as the country afforded, being quite an inferior article, heavy and very brittle. Our vessel being repaired, we stood for the same ground again, where we cruised two months, entirely disheartened, by our bad luck, only taking two whales.

Our water getting quite low we stood for the British Settlement on Fernando Po. We deemed it unwise togo on shore there on account of the dreadful sickness then prevailing among the inhabitants. We sailed around the island till we came to a little harbor, lowered sail, and searched for water. The boat was manned by five oars-men with the captain. As we came around a point of land, we came suddenly upon several negro families loitering upon the beach entirely naked. They did not perceive us until we were close in upon them, when they gave a loud whoop or yell which almost deafened us, and took to their heels. We ransacked their huts, found they possessed, and perhaps needed, but little, living by fishing principally.

We searched in vain for water, took to our boats again and pulled along till we came to a little bay known as North West Bay, where we saw a number of natives fishing. We kept close in shore for fear of frightening them. Before we could cut off their retreat, they saw us, gave one yell and most assiduously did they pull for the shore. We overtook one canoe; they seemed very much frightened, and made attempts to jump overboard, when we held up bits of iron and other things as presents. They suffered us to come near them; finding us friends instead of enemies, they offered us water and wine made from the Palm Tree, which possesses most an excellent flavor. Those who had considered themselves very fortunate in escaping, came back bringing fowls and palm wine which they readily exchanged for our bits of old iron. Those trifles were considered by them as possessing great value. They would hang them about their persons and dance and jump about with greatest delight. Soon as they could be made to understand the nature of our visit, they sent a man withus, who took us a little way around to a most beautiful stream of pure cold water. Dismissing our pilot we stood for our vessel which was not then visible, thinking to get the water the next morning. We pulled out of the harbor and saw our vessel hull down as it is termed, that is, nothing to be seen but the topmasts. Scarce a ripple was to be felt upon the water, so perfectly glass-like did it appear. The sun was just setting in all its splendor, casting its long beautiful rays upon the still waters, rendering our situation certainly a most enviable one. Soon as the sun's last flickering ray died upon the water, the moon pale and beautiful gladdened our hearts with her gentle rays. Caring but little to leave this fascinating spot, we pulled leisurely for the ship, reaching her at half-past ten.

The next morning we stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The natives in great numbers came on board, wishing to exchange more of their fowls and wine for the poor, worthless bits of iron and other things, which we possessed. We noticed one with both hands cut off at his wrists; and were informed, if we rightly interpreted their signs, that he was a thief, and that was one of their modes of punishment. In wishing to come on board, he threw his arms around the hauling part of the fore sheet, (a rope hanging at the ship's side) which not being fast in-board gave way with his weight, and he fell into the sea. Not one of his fellows tendered him the helping hand. Some looked on without betraying the least emotion, while others with ribaldry and mirth saw the water close over him forever. He seemed to be an object of universal contempt. Whether his thievingpropensities were coupled with other misdeeds I know not.

Having obtained our supply of water and a goodly supply of provision and wine from the natives, we were allowed liberty on shore. Taking our guns with us we shot many birds. Soon as they fell the females would spring for them and pull out the largest feathers, with which to decorate their heads. In one excursion we found an old man lying on the sand suffering most intensely under the malady common to that and other African islands, also known in Brazil and other parts of South America, called the Chiger. It is supposed to be caused by an insect which deposits its eggs under the toes of the bare feet of the natives while walking in the sand, causing an inflammation, which if treated unskillfully produces an incurable sore. I have seen those with their legs swollen nearly as large as the body. The situation of the old man referred to was frightful beyond conception; his lips and cheeks were most entirely gone, leaving his jaw bone and teeth bare; his tongue and pallet, together with the roof of his mouth were also nearly consumed, rendering him speechless. With the greatest difficulty he could drag himself along; the most disagreeable odor filled the atmosphere around; no hand of sympathy was extended to him; alone and friendless he was left to die.

On our return we passed that way, and found his sorrows had an end. By the blood on the ground and marks of violence on the body, we were satisfied his miseries were brought to an end by human hands.

Went on board and stood for Princes Island, which lies about 150 miles to the southward. Saw a largesail to the windward; at once supposed her to be a British man-of-war, whose duty it is to guard against any depredations being committed by slavers or others on any foreign coast. Our captain knowing his vessel presented rather a suspicious appearance, being rigged and painted in a rakish manner, and wishing to have a little sport, made sail, as if fearing such company. This had the desired effect. They immediately set her studding sails and gave chase. The captain, to continue the joke, crowded all sail, which came near proving a joke of a serious nature to him, for the Englishman perceiving this, bellowed out in tones there was no mistaking, as a signal for us to heave to. This being unheeded, was quickly succeeded by one that told us full well of the fatal consequences of longer sporting with them. We hove to and suffered her to come up with us, and when within hail, she asked the usual questions, Who are you? Where bound? &c., &c., lowered her boat, came on board, demanded the ship's papers, also the reason why we did not heave to at the first gun; was told that at that moment a spout was seen from aloft, and it was determined to find out what kind of whale it was, found it to be a hump-back, and there she blowsagain. Fortunately for him a whale of that kind happened to come in sight and aided much in carrying out the joke. Finding our situation different from what he feared, he made himself very agreeable, and spent some time with us; after exchanging Oil for Rum we soon parted. In a few days squared away for Princes Island, whither we were bound; entering the harbor, found the Man-of-war lying there; had liberty on shore; spent a few days very pleasantly indeed. Got under weigh again, boundfor the West Indies, with the heaviest press of sail we were able to carry. It was our intention to sight Barbadoes and run down to St. Vincent for our ship's supplies. The wind being very fair we overrun our reckoning. The night also setting very dark and foggy, we were not aware of our proximity to Barbadoes until we found our vessel going at the rate of ten knots in the midst of shipping. With greatest despatch the helm was put "hard-a-port," the studding-sail tacks and braces let go, and the vessel brought to the wind without the least harm, though great was the danger. Stood out of the harbor and made St. Vincent. After a voyage of forty days came to anchor at a small harbor commonly called the Bottle and Glass, so called from a large round rock at its mouth, which in the sun's reflection very much resembles in its general appearance a huge blue glass bottle.

It was exceedingly pleasant after a long voyage to again get liberty on shore. The captain advanced us money which we spent among the natives, giving but little restraint to our passions. We were left on shore one night for some reason with no means of getting on board, also without money and without shelter, for soon as our money was gone, it was no object for the people to shelter us. Some of the company proposed swimming, and suiting the action to the words, stripped their clothes, lashed them to their backs and started, but soon returned, sick of the undertaking. There being a house (if the huts of the natives can be called houses) near where we had spent some of our money, we concluded to try their generosity. We knocked, but received no answer. It was then proposed to wait upon ourselvesin. I was chosen leader; laid hold of the boards on the side of the house, sung a song, and with the chorus giving a "long pull, a strong pull and a pull altogether," away she came, and we walked in. (It will be borne in mind the houses are built slightly indeed, consequently our task was not very heavy.) On our entrance, the old lady yelled out "My God, ye Buckra (white) man no stop come in do (door) pull'e side house down."

As I had been chosen leader, or captain, I found the liquor, which was in a huge jug, and took possession of that, set myself on the floor by the jug and dealt out as their several cases demanded. There we spent the night, singing, dancing, and as a common accompaniment, drinking.

With the morning came the constable, who took us off to jail with as little ceremony as we walked into the hut. The captain hearing of our confinement came and paid five dollars each, as a fine, and took us back, we thinking that we had one of the finest times imaginable.

Got ready for sea the next day, called all hands, found one man missing. What became of him we never knew. We cruised about the islands two or three weeks for whales; the same poor success which we experienced on other grounds attended us here, and sick at heart we turned our course towards New Bedford, with only 250 barrels Oil, when we should have had full ship. Our ship was capable of holding 750 barrels.

In the gulf stream we encountered a tremendous gale from the north east, which contending with the strong current which ran in a contrary direction, (from the south west,) caused a very high and irregular sea. Weshortened sail and ran the vessel as long as possible. The night set in so extremely dark that we were unable to distinguish one object from another, only by the lightning's flash. I remained at the wheel from eight to twelve, P. M. At one time a heavy sea suddenly struck us upon our quarter, breaking the davits, (by which the boats are hoisted) sweeping the boat across the deck, bursting the bulwarks off and buried me up to the middle in water. I felt as if I was alone upon deck, for surely no one could possibly be there who was not previously lashed. The wretchedness of the situation the pen cannot picture. At length I felt a hand laid heavily upon me, at the same time the well known voice of the captain cries, "who has the helm?" "Bill, sir," says I. An extra man was offered me at the helm if I wished. This I declined, feeling desirous of preserving the strength of the crew, if possible, for greater emergencies. I left the helm at twelve o'clock and went below. At four all hands were called to make sail, the wind having abated, though the sea rolled so very heavily, that the vessel was in great danger of being dismasted. At noon all possible sail was made. During the night we saw Cape Hatteras light, found ourselves rather nearer than prudence would permit, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the known world, hauled our wind and stood off from the shore. We crowded all sail possible, and reached New Bedford about the first of April, having been absent nine months.

No sooner had I stepped on my own native soil, than home with all its allurements presented itself to my mind. I well knew the joy my return would bring to those patents from whose roof I had thus long absentedmyself, and I was almost persuaded to forsake the sailor's hard and bitter lot and turn again to the home of my youth, and wander no more. But then my mind would revert to the reception I met with on my last return, and I resolved to redeem the pledge made when I last left home.

Not having cleared my expenses I was left with no alternative save going to sea again, and I engaged to go on board the same vessel again, under the command of Charles Hammen who was mate of her the previous voyage. While the ship was fitting for the voyage I run one trip to Baltimore, on board the brig Henry, Captain Taber, mate, Coleman, with oil. Returned laden with flour. This incident in itself considered is of little note; but the circumstance of my becoming acquainted with those men, particularly the mate, afterwards, as will be seen, proved of the greatest importance to me.

CHAPTER III.Sail from New Bedford. The Crew are put upon allowance. Reach the Azores. Proceed to the Brazil Banks. Return to the African coast. Great fear arises from breakers. Prove to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives who come to the ship. Their awful appearance. Serious difficulty arises with one of the crew, who is put on shore. Cruise about for whale. Trade with the natives of St. Thomas. Procure two monkeys, who render much service in killing cockroaches. The treatment given the crew at Fernando Po. Kindly interference of British officers. The crew are obliged to catch their own provision. Sail for home. I take a few flying fish, which the captain claims as his. Threw them into the sea. Great rage of the Captain. Reach New Bedford. The sailors leave the Captain to secure the sails.With prosperous winds we cleared the harbor. Spread all canvass to the breeze, and soon our native land was seen only in the distance. For a length of time, every thing passed finely and promised a happy voyage; but we were doomed to disappointment and sorrow. Our commander, conscious of the authority vested in him, put it in force. We were first put upon allowance of only one pound of bread, and one half pound of meat. This caused but little murmuring; each confined his sorrows to his own bosom, and did his master's bidding with the strictest care; and would have remained so had our sorrows ended there. The master was often heard to say it would not do to give us even as great an allowanceas he then did, for we were, like highly fed horses, quite unmanageable.We touched at the Azores, or western islands, and took on a fresh supply of provisions—such as potatoes, onions, &c. Thence to the isle of Saul, of the Cape Verdes group, where we spent a day and night; got a quantity of fish and sea-fowl eggs. At St. Mary's, of the same group, we proposed leaving one of the crew who was sick on board; but the consul would not receive him, consequently, we were obliged to keep him, and do the best we could. Here we were attended with the same poor success that had characterized this and the former voyage.Sick at heart at our poor luck, we steered for the coast of Brazil. We made the coast about the first of January, where we cruised until the last of the month, without any profit at all; and again squared away for the African coast. Made the island of Anoben, which lies to the southwest of St. Thomas, and also belongs to Portugal. At this place we learned, by an American trader which we spoke, of a large company of pirates who had been driven ashore a few months previous. They had a large boat, and lay secreted in some of the rivers or creeks until the near approach of some ship, when they would rush out from their hiding place, and seize upon the ship before the crew were fully aware of their danger. They had already secured to themselves many valuable cargoes. As might be expected from receiving such information, we gave the island a "wide berth;" cruised away to the northward, and touched at Princes island. We cruised among the group for a length of time.One night, in the gulf of Biafra, between Fernando Po and the main land, we as usual had shortened sail. The current drifted us nearer shore than we were aware. The man aloft cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." The lead was cast, and no bottom found. The man aloft again cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." Again the lead was cast 100 fathoms; yet it found no resting place. "Breakers off the lee beam" was the continued cry. On a still nearer approach, we found the reported breakers to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives, singing and shouting loudly, coming with great speed towards our vessel. Considering them enemies, we set about making our defence as strong as possible with the poor supply of arms usually carried on whale ships. When within about 300 yards they stopped, seemingly in consultation. Soon, one of their number set off for the vessel. When he came alongside, we showed him our arms. He held up elephant teeth; signifying that he came as a trader, and not an enemy. We suffered him to come on board. He was a very large man, seeming to possess great muscular strength, and nearly naked. In his ears, nose, around his neck, wrists, and ankles, were gold and ivory rings. Going on the quarter deck, he gave a sharp, shrill whistle as a signal to his comrades; in an instant every paddle was in motion, beating time to their wild songs. Soon they were at our ship's sides. We would allow only a few on board at a time. Never, in the whole course of my wanderings, have I seen man presenting so terrific an appearance,—they were scarred from head to foot in a most brutal manner. Whether this was done in actual wars or not I am unable to determine;but, as they were nearly all so, I thought it must have been done among themselves, that they might appear thus frightful. Theirteeth, which were of the purest white, were filed sharp, resembling the teeth of a saw. We traded with them, taking a few teeth, and a small quantity of gold dust. The breeze freshened a little, and they left us. The first one that came was the last to leave. After the others were a little way from the ship he threw his canoe (which he brought on board when he came) over, then jumped after it, and pulled for the shore.We lay five days becalmed within a few miles of the shore. Sometimes towing our vessel with boats, at other times, getting a little breeze, we would take all possible advantage of it. Still we gained but little. At last the wind favoring us, we conquered the current, and stood away for St. Thomas, where we went on shore. An Irishman, one of the number, who was naturally a very bad man, procured some spirits with a shirt which he took with him, which rendered him a perfect demon. According to his own statement, he had been a term of years on board of pirate vessels. At any rate he had had many a skirmish, for he was literally scarred from head to foot. When the boat came along side, he called the Captain many hard names of which he took but little notice, knowing his situation, and went below to be clear of him. Jack took a pike, (an instrument of pointed iron, used to handle blubber with,) and threw it with great force at a pig. Missing his aim, it lodged in the bulwarks. The Captain heard the noise, and came immediately upon deck to learn the cause. On inquiring who threw it, Jack stepped up,and promptly said, "I, sir, and what are you a going to do about it." The Captain ordered him put in irons; but the officers found it no small undertaking, for he was quite at home in such skirmishes. He went below, and endeavored to influence the crew to join him in seizing the officers, and taking command of the vessel; but in this he was unsuccessful. The cook informed the officers of his proceedings, and they seized upon all of the arms, spades, boarding knives, &c., belonging to the vessel, and remained under arms during the night. Then most vividly must the treatment the Captain had given his crew come before his mind. He had done nothing to gain their confidence and respect, but rather to the contrary, much to excite their hatred towards him. At the moment when he most needed their sympathy and aid, he had nothing to expect, or even hope at their hands, but stern retaliation. Pent up, as he was, within the narrow confines of a whale ship, where the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, knowing of no one among his crew whom he could call his friend, must have rendered his situation one not in the least degree enviable. But hardened and reckless as all sailors are usually called, his crew were actuated by higher and better motives. The presumptuous insinuations of Jack were instantly repelled. No one for a single moment entertaining the idea. Rather than raise a hand against him, to whom they had pledged their fidelity, although he had been guilty of a nonconformance on his part, they, one and all, would even suffer the horrors of starvation, which, by his decree, were then seemingly before them. It was hoped and expected that this moment of trial being over, he woulddo something to ameliorate our condition, and secure to himself that confidence so highly necessary to every commander.The next morning Jack was called upon quarter deck. The Captain asked him what he meant by such abuse as he had given the previous evening. He, in reply, shaking his clenched fist in his face, said he had made food for sharks of many a better man than him, and such would be his fate should he remain long on board. His choice was given him between public flogging and leaving the ship. He chose to be set on shore, saying he was not born to be flogged on board a whale ship, threatening to kill the Captain before he left.A boat was lowered away under charge of the second mate, into which he was ordered with his effects, the Captain and other officers standing by under arms. When we reached the shore he bade each an adieu in turn; shouldered his bundle, and started for the woods; and we knew no more of him.We remained at the island several days. Bought several monkeys of the small kind, which, beside the amusement they afforded, rendered themselves of much service in ridding the ship of cockroaches with which it was swarmed. The service thus rendered the sailor proves to them their own destruction, for they cannot live many weeks after eating them. The cockroach is a very troublesome insect which gets into vessels, and oftentimes attacks the sleeping sailor, eating the dead skin from the feet and hands. The bite is attended with much pain, leaving the flesh tender for a long time.Some difficulty arose between the officers and crewwhich terminated in hard words. The Captain swearing that, as our leader was gone, we should feel his power. Our already small allowance was lessened one half. This our natures could not submit to. When we were wanted to go in the boats we were scarce able to work the oars. This called out the worst abuse the Captain could invent. We made Fernando Po, an English island, and took on wood, which we did by carrying it on our shoulders, and wading in water to our middle, a man being placed over us, who exercised his authority with scarce less severity than a Brazilian slave driver. An English man-of-war being at anchor there, and seeing us thus driven, sent her boats along side, and ordered us all to our ship. The mate, who had us in charge, feeling affronted that his orders should be put at nought, hesitated about complying with the order; but, seeing their determination to be obeyed, ordered us to the ship. A lieutenant accompanied us; and, when on board, sent other hands to discharge the boats, and ordered our clothes changed soon as possible. After severely reproving the Captain for thus exposing our lives in that climate, and in the sickly season, too, he left the ship.The next day we were allowed liberty on shore; passed a burial ground, and saw eight or ten open graves, fitted receptacles for the victims of yellow fever, who were falling almost momentarily. Four months previous to this time, a regiment of 850 soldiers were sent from England, of which only fifteen then remained; and of the thirty females who accompanied them, none were left to tell their sad fate. Some of the scenes to which I was witness, were horrid beyond degree. Itseemed to attack more generally, and with greater virulence, those of intemperate habits; and amid such scenes men would go to the intoxicating bowl, lay down to move no more, and, in a few hours, be in a state of putrefaction. I saw on one occasion a funeral procession (of a boatswain who had died intoxicated) which consisted of only six men, and all of them drunk, staggering their way along to the grave-yard. In ascending a small hill the coffin fell from their shoulders; the corpse broke its rude boards, and rolled part way down the hill. They carried the coffin to the top, then placed the body in, and with oaths and imprecations went on their way.Gladly we left this place so wretched, and proceeded to St. Thomas. Took on a few yams, hogs, &c. Spoke a trader, of whom we procured a quantity of dried turtle; but little of it fell to the poor seamen. We still remained upon allowance. The fear which the officers were under in the affair of Jack had entirely subsided, leaving our situation no better than before.A new barrel of beef was opened one day for the officers which was much hurt. It was thought to be good enough for the seamen, and another opened for the officers. The meat when cooked was worse than before, and we presumed to show it to the Captain, who flew into a rage, and said if he could get any that was worse we should eat it. We got some lines and caught a few fish. The Captain finding we were like to live well that way, took our allowance of pork from us, which obliged us to eat our fish boiled, and without salt. Thus we spent seven months, most anxiously wishing for a termination of the voyage.We stood away for the Azores. The Captain wishing to get a man to fill the place of the one left, tried to steal a Portuguese soldier; had him secreted on board; but was found out, and fined $200. This enraged him, and severity was our lot in consequence. His haste in leaving that place was great. We had been out only about twelve hours, when heavy squalls from the northeast struck us. The wind increased. We lay to, under a storm try-sail, fourteen days. During this time we were kept picking oakum, having but six hours rest. The Captain endeavored the while to teach us the value of true, heart-felt thankfulness. As the wind abated, we spread sail for New Bedford. Happy, indeed, were we to learn that home was our next point to be reached. We were kept on allowance during the passage which occupied 60 days. We caught and eat porpoises to satisfy the demands of hunger. Those acquainted with the article can form some idea of our misery.One night, in the gulf stream, a number of flying fish came on board, which I took, and was preparing for my breakfast, when the Captain came along, saying "you have had fine luck. Think you have got enough for my breakfast?" and at the same time called the cook to take them. I seized the pail and threw them overboard, "saying you shall not have them any how." His rage knew no bounds; he called me every thing which he could find words to utter. I reminded him of the speedy termination of the voyage. He could find no way to punish this insolence as he called it. Finally, he set us all scrubbing the deck with sand, although it rained so hard that it kept one man constantly putting it on.Stopping the scupper, the rolling of the vessel would wash the water and sand from one side to the other. We were obliged to rub from 7 to 12 o'clock; then to dinner, (if boiled porpoise and bread can be called dinner,) back again to scrubbing, and thus we finished the day.The next day we spoke the ship Boston, Capt. Reed, of Fair Haven, bound to Brazil, whaling; they offered us provisions, which our Captain refused, probably thinking it economy for his men to catch their own. In a few days we saw land, took on a pilot; soon came to anchor. As is always the case, seamen's duty is done the moment the anchor is let go, though they usually stow the sails; but the moment the anchor was cast we took our things, put them in a boat to go ashore, leaving the sails hanging to the yards. The Captain begged of us to stow them. We told him we had been with him long enough, and were now happily free from his authority; and that it would give us much pleasure to see him stow them himself. He was soon leaving the ship himself; for the owners came on board, and ordered him, and all that he had, out of the ship immediately, or it would go overboard. Thus terminated my second voyage with still poorer success than my former one, having taken only 150 barrels sperm, and 10 black fish oil, after a voyage of nearly 13 months. This voyage, like the first, left me in debt, and with no other way, seemingly, than to again try and see what another voyage would do. I went to the boarding house without a cent in my pocket.

Sail from New Bedford. The Crew are put upon allowance. Reach the Azores. Proceed to the Brazil Banks. Return to the African coast. Great fear arises from breakers. Prove to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives who come to the ship. Their awful appearance. Serious difficulty arises with one of the crew, who is put on shore. Cruise about for whale. Trade with the natives of St. Thomas. Procure two monkeys, who render much service in killing cockroaches. The treatment given the crew at Fernando Po. Kindly interference of British officers. The crew are obliged to catch their own provision. Sail for home. I take a few flying fish, which the captain claims as his. Threw them into the sea. Great rage of the Captain. Reach New Bedford. The sailors leave the Captain to secure the sails.

With prosperous winds we cleared the harbor. Spread all canvass to the breeze, and soon our native land was seen only in the distance. For a length of time, every thing passed finely and promised a happy voyage; but we were doomed to disappointment and sorrow. Our commander, conscious of the authority vested in him, put it in force. We were first put upon allowance of only one pound of bread, and one half pound of meat. This caused but little murmuring; each confined his sorrows to his own bosom, and did his master's bidding with the strictest care; and would have remained so had our sorrows ended there. The master was often heard to say it would not do to give us even as great an allowanceas he then did, for we were, like highly fed horses, quite unmanageable.

We touched at the Azores, or western islands, and took on a fresh supply of provisions—such as potatoes, onions, &c. Thence to the isle of Saul, of the Cape Verdes group, where we spent a day and night; got a quantity of fish and sea-fowl eggs. At St. Mary's, of the same group, we proposed leaving one of the crew who was sick on board; but the consul would not receive him, consequently, we were obliged to keep him, and do the best we could. Here we were attended with the same poor success that had characterized this and the former voyage.

Sick at heart at our poor luck, we steered for the coast of Brazil. We made the coast about the first of January, where we cruised until the last of the month, without any profit at all; and again squared away for the African coast. Made the island of Anoben, which lies to the southwest of St. Thomas, and also belongs to Portugal. At this place we learned, by an American trader which we spoke, of a large company of pirates who had been driven ashore a few months previous. They had a large boat, and lay secreted in some of the rivers or creeks until the near approach of some ship, when they would rush out from their hiding place, and seize upon the ship before the crew were fully aware of their danger. They had already secured to themselves many valuable cargoes. As might be expected from receiving such information, we gave the island a "wide berth;" cruised away to the northward, and touched at Princes island. We cruised among the group for a length of time.

One night, in the gulf of Biafra, between Fernando Po and the main land, we as usual had shortened sail. The current drifted us nearer shore than we were aware. The man aloft cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." The lead was cast, and no bottom found. The man aloft again cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." Again the lead was cast 100 fathoms; yet it found no resting place. "Breakers off the lee beam" was the continued cry. On a still nearer approach, we found the reported breakers to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives, singing and shouting loudly, coming with great speed towards our vessel. Considering them enemies, we set about making our defence as strong as possible with the poor supply of arms usually carried on whale ships. When within about 300 yards they stopped, seemingly in consultation. Soon, one of their number set off for the vessel. When he came alongside, we showed him our arms. He held up elephant teeth; signifying that he came as a trader, and not an enemy. We suffered him to come on board. He was a very large man, seeming to possess great muscular strength, and nearly naked. In his ears, nose, around his neck, wrists, and ankles, were gold and ivory rings. Going on the quarter deck, he gave a sharp, shrill whistle as a signal to his comrades; in an instant every paddle was in motion, beating time to their wild songs. Soon they were at our ship's sides. We would allow only a few on board at a time. Never, in the whole course of my wanderings, have I seen man presenting so terrific an appearance,—they were scarred from head to foot in a most brutal manner. Whether this was done in actual wars or not I am unable to determine;but, as they were nearly all so, I thought it must have been done among themselves, that they might appear thus frightful. Theirteeth, which were of the purest white, were filed sharp, resembling the teeth of a saw. We traded with them, taking a few teeth, and a small quantity of gold dust. The breeze freshened a little, and they left us. The first one that came was the last to leave. After the others were a little way from the ship he threw his canoe (which he brought on board when he came) over, then jumped after it, and pulled for the shore.

We lay five days becalmed within a few miles of the shore. Sometimes towing our vessel with boats, at other times, getting a little breeze, we would take all possible advantage of it. Still we gained but little. At last the wind favoring us, we conquered the current, and stood away for St. Thomas, where we went on shore. An Irishman, one of the number, who was naturally a very bad man, procured some spirits with a shirt which he took with him, which rendered him a perfect demon. According to his own statement, he had been a term of years on board of pirate vessels. At any rate he had had many a skirmish, for he was literally scarred from head to foot. When the boat came along side, he called the Captain many hard names of which he took but little notice, knowing his situation, and went below to be clear of him. Jack took a pike, (an instrument of pointed iron, used to handle blubber with,) and threw it with great force at a pig. Missing his aim, it lodged in the bulwarks. The Captain heard the noise, and came immediately upon deck to learn the cause. On inquiring who threw it, Jack stepped up,and promptly said, "I, sir, and what are you a going to do about it." The Captain ordered him put in irons; but the officers found it no small undertaking, for he was quite at home in such skirmishes. He went below, and endeavored to influence the crew to join him in seizing the officers, and taking command of the vessel; but in this he was unsuccessful. The cook informed the officers of his proceedings, and they seized upon all of the arms, spades, boarding knives, &c., belonging to the vessel, and remained under arms during the night. Then most vividly must the treatment the Captain had given his crew come before his mind. He had done nothing to gain their confidence and respect, but rather to the contrary, much to excite their hatred towards him. At the moment when he most needed their sympathy and aid, he had nothing to expect, or even hope at their hands, but stern retaliation. Pent up, as he was, within the narrow confines of a whale ship, where the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, knowing of no one among his crew whom he could call his friend, must have rendered his situation one not in the least degree enviable. But hardened and reckless as all sailors are usually called, his crew were actuated by higher and better motives. The presumptuous insinuations of Jack were instantly repelled. No one for a single moment entertaining the idea. Rather than raise a hand against him, to whom they had pledged their fidelity, although he had been guilty of a nonconformance on his part, they, one and all, would even suffer the horrors of starvation, which, by his decree, were then seemingly before them. It was hoped and expected that this moment of trial being over, he woulddo something to ameliorate our condition, and secure to himself that confidence so highly necessary to every commander.

The next morning Jack was called upon quarter deck. The Captain asked him what he meant by such abuse as he had given the previous evening. He, in reply, shaking his clenched fist in his face, said he had made food for sharks of many a better man than him, and such would be his fate should he remain long on board. His choice was given him between public flogging and leaving the ship. He chose to be set on shore, saying he was not born to be flogged on board a whale ship, threatening to kill the Captain before he left.

A boat was lowered away under charge of the second mate, into which he was ordered with his effects, the Captain and other officers standing by under arms. When we reached the shore he bade each an adieu in turn; shouldered his bundle, and started for the woods; and we knew no more of him.

We remained at the island several days. Bought several monkeys of the small kind, which, beside the amusement they afforded, rendered themselves of much service in ridding the ship of cockroaches with which it was swarmed. The service thus rendered the sailor proves to them their own destruction, for they cannot live many weeks after eating them. The cockroach is a very troublesome insect which gets into vessels, and oftentimes attacks the sleeping sailor, eating the dead skin from the feet and hands. The bite is attended with much pain, leaving the flesh tender for a long time.

Some difficulty arose between the officers and crewwhich terminated in hard words. The Captain swearing that, as our leader was gone, we should feel his power. Our already small allowance was lessened one half. This our natures could not submit to. When we were wanted to go in the boats we were scarce able to work the oars. This called out the worst abuse the Captain could invent. We made Fernando Po, an English island, and took on wood, which we did by carrying it on our shoulders, and wading in water to our middle, a man being placed over us, who exercised his authority with scarce less severity than a Brazilian slave driver. An English man-of-war being at anchor there, and seeing us thus driven, sent her boats along side, and ordered us all to our ship. The mate, who had us in charge, feeling affronted that his orders should be put at nought, hesitated about complying with the order; but, seeing their determination to be obeyed, ordered us to the ship. A lieutenant accompanied us; and, when on board, sent other hands to discharge the boats, and ordered our clothes changed soon as possible. After severely reproving the Captain for thus exposing our lives in that climate, and in the sickly season, too, he left the ship.

The next day we were allowed liberty on shore; passed a burial ground, and saw eight or ten open graves, fitted receptacles for the victims of yellow fever, who were falling almost momentarily. Four months previous to this time, a regiment of 850 soldiers were sent from England, of which only fifteen then remained; and of the thirty females who accompanied them, none were left to tell their sad fate. Some of the scenes to which I was witness, were horrid beyond degree. Itseemed to attack more generally, and with greater virulence, those of intemperate habits; and amid such scenes men would go to the intoxicating bowl, lay down to move no more, and, in a few hours, be in a state of putrefaction. I saw on one occasion a funeral procession (of a boatswain who had died intoxicated) which consisted of only six men, and all of them drunk, staggering their way along to the grave-yard. In ascending a small hill the coffin fell from their shoulders; the corpse broke its rude boards, and rolled part way down the hill. They carried the coffin to the top, then placed the body in, and with oaths and imprecations went on their way.

Gladly we left this place so wretched, and proceeded to St. Thomas. Took on a few yams, hogs, &c. Spoke a trader, of whom we procured a quantity of dried turtle; but little of it fell to the poor seamen. We still remained upon allowance. The fear which the officers were under in the affair of Jack had entirely subsided, leaving our situation no better than before.

A new barrel of beef was opened one day for the officers which was much hurt. It was thought to be good enough for the seamen, and another opened for the officers. The meat when cooked was worse than before, and we presumed to show it to the Captain, who flew into a rage, and said if he could get any that was worse we should eat it. We got some lines and caught a few fish. The Captain finding we were like to live well that way, took our allowance of pork from us, which obliged us to eat our fish boiled, and without salt. Thus we spent seven months, most anxiously wishing for a termination of the voyage.

We stood away for the Azores. The Captain wishing to get a man to fill the place of the one left, tried to steal a Portuguese soldier; had him secreted on board; but was found out, and fined $200. This enraged him, and severity was our lot in consequence. His haste in leaving that place was great. We had been out only about twelve hours, when heavy squalls from the northeast struck us. The wind increased. We lay to, under a storm try-sail, fourteen days. During this time we were kept picking oakum, having but six hours rest. The Captain endeavored the while to teach us the value of true, heart-felt thankfulness. As the wind abated, we spread sail for New Bedford. Happy, indeed, were we to learn that home was our next point to be reached. We were kept on allowance during the passage which occupied 60 days. We caught and eat porpoises to satisfy the demands of hunger. Those acquainted with the article can form some idea of our misery.

One night, in the gulf stream, a number of flying fish came on board, which I took, and was preparing for my breakfast, when the Captain came along, saying "you have had fine luck. Think you have got enough for my breakfast?" and at the same time called the cook to take them. I seized the pail and threw them overboard, "saying you shall not have them any how." His rage knew no bounds; he called me every thing which he could find words to utter. I reminded him of the speedy termination of the voyage. He could find no way to punish this insolence as he called it. Finally, he set us all scrubbing the deck with sand, although it rained so hard that it kept one man constantly putting it on.Stopping the scupper, the rolling of the vessel would wash the water and sand from one side to the other. We were obliged to rub from 7 to 12 o'clock; then to dinner, (if boiled porpoise and bread can be called dinner,) back again to scrubbing, and thus we finished the day.

The next day we spoke the ship Boston, Capt. Reed, of Fair Haven, bound to Brazil, whaling; they offered us provisions, which our Captain refused, probably thinking it economy for his men to catch their own. In a few days we saw land, took on a pilot; soon came to anchor. As is always the case, seamen's duty is done the moment the anchor is let go, though they usually stow the sails; but the moment the anchor was cast we took our things, put them in a boat to go ashore, leaving the sails hanging to the yards. The Captain begged of us to stow them. We told him we had been with him long enough, and were now happily free from his authority; and that it would give us much pleasure to see him stow them himself. He was soon leaving the ship himself; for the owners came on board, and ordered him, and all that he had, out of the ship immediately, or it would go overboard. Thus terminated my second voyage with still poorer success than my former one, having taken only 150 barrels sperm, and 10 black fish oil, after a voyage of nearly 13 months. This voyage, like the first, left me in debt, and with no other way, seemingly, than to again try and see what another voyage would do. I went to the boarding house without a cent in my pocket.

CHAPTER IV.Sail on board the Huntress, bound for the Pacific, on a whaling Expedition. Encounter a heavy Storm. A Man lost. Reach the Falklands. Description of them. Storm at the Cape. Icebergs. Island of Juan Fernandez. Arrive at the Sandwich Islands. A Sketch of them.I shipped myself on board the Huntress, Capt. Post, then fitting for a cruise to the Pacific. We set sail from New Bedford, 1832, August 3d. About the middle of the month a violent gale arose from the southeast. We stowed our top-gallant-sails; reefed our top-sails; furled our main course, and stood to the eastward. The gale increasing, we were obliged to furl our fore and mizen top-sails, jib and spankers, and heave our ship to under close reefed main-top-sail, fore-sail, and fore-top-mast, main and mizen stay-sail. Thus we ran many hours. The wind subsiding in a degree, enabled us to run quarterly with the wind, with fore-top-mast studding-sail set. Most of the hands were below when the ship fetched a lurch and roll at the same time, with a head sea, carrying the fore-top-mast in three pieces, and the top-gallant-mast; springing the main and mizen top-mast; throwing one man who was aloft into the water. A boat was lowered, but no trace of him found save his hat. By the blood on the rigging, it was thought he received serious injury before he reached the water. All hands were called, and the wreck cleared fast as possible.Most of our crew were new hands; and out of 30 men only six were found who could go aloft with any degree of usefulness in rough weather. Having spare spars, we were soon rigged again. Made the Azores. Took one whale from which we got 60 barrels of oil. We also replaced our spars; got potatoes, onions, oranges, &c., from them. We touched at Cape Verdes; got hogs, goats, &c.; then shaped our course for the Falkland islands, "so denominated by the English, in 1639, in honor, it is supposed of Lord Viscount Falkland. The soil is bad, and the climate is disagreeable, and the shores are beaten with perpetual storms. Nothing but reeds and moss cover the ground. The sky is perpetually concealed from view by thick fogs. The extreme cold cannot be alleviated by fire, as there is neither wood or coal; and even a ship in port is covered with constant snow. The shores are frequented, however, by considerable quantities of sea-fowl and fish. The penguins, called swans by the Spaniards, supply a scanty and miserable food. Walruses, and others of the seal kind, abound."The history of the disputes between Great Britain and Spain, concerning these miserable islands, furnishes another of the evidences of the necessity of the study of geography among statesmen, as nothing but a complete geographical ignorance concerning them, could have raised such an unnecessary alarm on both sides."We left the Falklands to double the cape. A few days after, a heavy wind arose from the north. We shortened sail as the gale increased, until we come down to close reefed main-top-sail, scudding the ship for fourdays. The sea ran most fearfully high, throwing the water in at one side, and putting it out at the other. While the ship was thus laboring, we were ordered to lighten her top hamper, by sending down the fore and mizen top-gallant and main royal yards. While another and myself were in the act of lowering the main royal yard the ship rolled very quick and heavy. I missed my hold and falling, struck on the main-top-sail reef tackle, which was very tight and fast. I struck on my side, turned a complete somerset, fell again, and thrust my legs between the shrouds and ratline, and there hung. The mate hearing the rigging shake, cried out, "who is there?" I answered some way, scarce knowing how. He, knowing my voice, came running to help me to the deck, when I fainted and fell. He picked me up, and placed me on the after hatchway. At that moment a tremendous sea struck the vessel, carrying the mate and myself into the lee scupper. Assistance being at hand, we were taken out, and I carried to the cabin. It was sometime before I came to my senses. Found three of my ribs broken, and bruised much elsewhere. I was carried into the forecastle, where I remained suffering most extremely for a long time; and have hardly, I may say, recovered from the effects to the present day. The gale continued with unabated fury. The latitude being nearly run out, the ship was hove to with her head to the west. There we lay drifting four weeks. Fell in with mountains of ice, commonly known as icebergs, of vast dimensions, and of almost every form. An estimate was made of the size of one supposed to be the largest seen. It seemingly was an hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high; and, as is a fact,the volume of ice is to that of sea water as 10 to 9, consequently the ice, which rises above the water, is to that which sinks below as 1 to 9. Then allowing this mass to have been 150 feet above the water, and of regular shape, it would sink below the surface about 1350 feet, making a huge mass of some 1500 feet high. Capt. Cook, in his voyage in 1773, describes one as being 600 feet high above the water, making, as he estimated, 5,400 feet to be its entire height. "And yet," says Cook, "the sea broke over them." They exhibited for a few moments a view very pleasing to the eye; but a sense of danger soon filled the mind with horror; for had the ship struck against the weather side of one of those islands, when the sea ran high, she would instantly have been dashed in pieces.At length these islands became as familiar to those on board as the clouds and the sea. Whenever a strong reflection of white was seen on the skirts of the sky, near the horizon, then ice was sure to be encountered. Notwithstanding which, the substance was not entirely white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the sea, with a most beautiful sapphirine, or rather beryline blue, evidently reflected from the water. This blue color sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the surface, and was probably produced by particles of sea water, which had been dashed against the mass in tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into its interstices. In the evening, the sun setting just behind one of these masses, tinged its edges with gold, and reflected on the entire mass a beautiful suffusion of purple. In the larger masses were frequently observed shades or casts of white, lying above each other in strata, sometimesof six inches, and at other times of a foot in height.This appearance seemed to confirm the opinion entertained relative to the increase and accumulation of such huge masses of ice, by heavy falls of snow at different intervals; for snow being of various kinds, small grained, and large grained, in light feathery locks, &c., the various degrees of compactness may account for the various colors of strata. The approximation of several fields of ice, of different magnitudes produces a very singular phenomenon.The smaller of these masses are forced out of the water, and thrown on the larger ones, until at length an aggregate is formed of a tremendous height. These accumulated bodies of ice float in the sea like so many rugged mountains, and are continually increased in height by the freezing of the spray of the sea, and the melting of the snow which falls on them.The collision of great fields of ice, in high latitudes is attended by a noise, which for a time, takes away the sense of hearing any thing beside; and that of the smaller fields, with a grinding of unspeakable horror.The water which dashes against the mountainous ice, freezes into an infinite variety of forms, and presents to the admiring view of the voyager, ideal towns, streets, churches, steeples, and almost every form which imagination can picture to itself.Our course was very much impeded by immense fields of low ice, the extent of which could scarcely be seen; these low fields, called the meadows, are the sporting grounds of seals, and often hundreds are seen at a time frolicking on them. After passing six weeksin dodging the ice, the wind favored us, and we shaped our course for the island of Juan Fernandez, which lies off the coast of Chili, about 350 miles, is inhabited by a few Spaniards, and is famous as having been the solitary residence of Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, whose singular adventure gave rise to a novel known as the adventures of Robinson Crusoe. We spent a few days on shore getting goats, potatoes, fruit, &c., for the ship; from thence we stood for the Sandwich Islands, and came to anchor at Hawaii about the first of April.Stewart in his Geographical sketch of them, says:—"The Sandwich Islands are situated in the Pacific ocean, between 18° 50' and 22° 20' north latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15', west longitude from Greenwich. They are about 2800 miles distant from the coast of Mexico, on the east; about 5000 from the shores of China, on the west; and 2700 from the Society Islands on the south."The Islands are ten in number, stretching, as may be seen from a chart, in a flattened curve, E. S. E., and W. N. W. in the following order: Hawaii, Maui, Molokini, Kahulawe, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai, Nihan, and Kaula."Hawaii, the most southern and eastern island, is the largest of the group. It is about ninety-seven miles long, and seventy-eight broad, covering a surface of 4000 square miles, and containing 85,000 inhabitants."Maui lies northwest from Hawaii, and is separated from it by a channel twenty-four miles wide. This island formed by two mountainous peninsulas, connected by a narrow neck of low land, is forty-eight miles long, and at its greatest width twenty-nine mileswide. It covers about 600 square miles, and is supposed to have a population of 20,000 people."Molokini is a barren rock, rising only fifteen or twenty feet above the level of the ocean, at a distance of four or five miles from the western shore of the southern peninsular of Maui. Kahulawe lies in the same direction from Maui, six or eight miles beyond Molokini. It is only eleven miles long, and eight broad, and has but few inhabitants."Lanai is situated twenty miles northwest from Kahulawe, and ten or twelve miles directly west from the northern peninsula of Maui. It is seventeen miles long and nine broad, covering about 110 square miles, with a population of 2000 or 3000."Molokai lies west-north-west from Maui, and is separated from it by a channel ten miles wide. A passage of about the same width divides it on the south from Lanai. Molokai is forty miles long and seven broad, covering 170 square miles, and containing three or four thousand inhabitants."Oahu lies twenty-seven miles northwest from Molokai; is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-three in breadth, with a surface of 520 square miles, and a population of 20,000. It affords the best harbor in the group, and is the most fertile and beautiful of the islands."Kauai is seventy-five miles northwest from Oahu. It is thirty-three miles long, and twenty-eight broad, covering 520 square miles, and has about 10,000 inhabitants."Nihan lies southwest from Kauai fifteen miles, and is twenty miles long and seven broad. The number of itsinhabitants is small. Kaula, situated seventeen miles southwest of Nihan, like Molokini, is an uninhabited rock, visited only for the eggs of sea fowl which frequent it in great numbers, and there hatch their young."These islands were discovered in the year 1778, by Captain James Cook, of the British Navy, and from him in honor of Earl Sandwich, the first lord of the admiralty, received the name by which they are at present designated. The tragical and lamented death of this celebrated navigator at Hawaii, in the succeeding year, caused their existence to be made known to the civilized world, with an excitement of feeling that deeply stamped the event on the public mind. No foreign ship visited the group again until the year 1786, when the ill-fated La Perouse touched at Maui; and about the same time two vessels, engaged in the trade of the North-west Coast, procured refreshments at the island of Oahu. These were early succeeded by several others; and in 1792 and 1794, by the expedition under the command of Vancouver."After having secured a sufficient quantity of provision, we were allowed liberty on shore; this liberty to one who had been shut up within the confines of a ship, was indeed exhilarating.In one of our rambles we fell in with a native, with whom we bargained for a dinner. He immediately sat himself about it. When cooked, it was served up in a calabash, or gourd; we seated ourselves upon the ground, around the dishes, and commenced operation; all were particularly fond of the meat which he had furnished, yet knew not what it was; on inquiry, we were told in broken English, "poy-poy," at the sametime he gave a most knowing kind of a laugh. We then half suspected foul play, and again sternly interrogating him as to the kind of meat, received in reply, "cow, cow," which signified dog. Each looked at the other, scarce knowing what to do. Some began vomiting; as for myself, I relished it, while supposing it something else; and at that late hour thought it folly to make much ado about it. The joke was often referred to quite to the discomfiture of those upon whom it was forced.We were next allowed liberty of forty-eight hours on shore, which we improved by visiting the volcano of Kilauea.As this volcano was visited in the year 1825, by Lord Byron, S. C. Stewart, and other distinguished and scientific gentlemen, accompanied by the officers and crew of his majesty's ship Blonde, with an escort of one hundred natives, I would refer my readers to a description given by Stewart, believing it to be the most graphic ever given, which will be found in the following chapter.

Sail on board the Huntress, bound for the Pacific, on a whaling Expedition. Encounter a heavy Storm. A Man lost. Reach the Falklands. Description of them. Storm at the Cape. Icebergs. Island of Juan Fernandez. Arrive at the Sandwich Islands. A Sketch of them.

I shipped myself on board the Huntress, Capt. Post, then fitting for a cruise to the Pacific. We set sail from New Bedford, 1832, August 3d. About the middle of the month a violent gale arose from the southeast. We stowed our top-gallant-sails; reefed our top-sails; furled our main course, and stood to the eastward. The gale increasing, we were obliged to furl our fore and mizen top-sails, jib and spankers, and heave our ship to under close reefed main-top-sail, fore-sail, and fore-top-mast, main and mizen stay-sail. Thus we ran many hours. The wind subsiding in a degree, enabled us to run quarterly with the wind, with fore-top-mast studding-sail set. Most of the hands were below when the ship fetched a lurch and roll at the same time, with a head sea, carrying the fore-top-mast in three pieces, and the top-gallant-mast; springing the main and mizen top-mast; throwing one man who was aloft into the water. A boat was lowered, but no trace of him found save his hat. By the blood on the rigging, it was thought he received serious injury before he reached the water. All hands were called, and the wreck cleared fast as possible.

Most of our crew were new hands; and out of 30 men only six were found who could go aloft with any degree of usefulness in rough weather. Having spare spars, we were soon rigged again. Made the Azores. Took one whale from which we got 60 barrels of oil. We also replaced our spars; got potatoes, onions, oranges, &c., from them. We touched at Cape Verdes; got hogs, goats, &c.; then shaped our course for the Falkland islands, "so denominated by the English, in 1639, in honor, it is supposed of Lord Viscount Falkland. The soil is bad, and the climate is disagreeable, and the shores are beaten with perpetual storms. Nothing but reeds and moss cover the ground. The sky is perpetually concealed from view by thick fogs. The extreme cold cannot be alleviated by fire, as there is neither wood or coal; and even a ship in port is covered with constant snow. The shores are frequented, however, by considerable quantities of sea-fowl and fish. The penguins, called swans by the Spaniards, supply a scanty and miserable food. Walruses, and others of the seal kind, abound.

"The history of the disputes between Great Britain and Spain, concerning these miserable islands, furnishes another of the evidences of the necessity of the study of geography among statesmen, as nothing but a complete geographical ignorance concerning them, could have raised such an unnecessary alarm on both sides."

We left the Falklands to double the cape. A few days after, a heavy wind arose from the north. We shortened sail as the gale increased, until we come down to close reefed main-top-sail, scudding the ship for fourdays. The sea ran most fearfully high, throwing the water in at one side, and putting it out at the other. While the ship was thus laboring, we were ordered to lighten her top hamper, by sending down the fore and mizen top-gallant and main royal yards. While another and myself were in the act of lowering the main royal yard the ship rolled very quick and heavy. I missed my hold and falling, struck on the main-top-sail reef tackle, which was very tight and fast. I struck on my side, turned a complete somerset, fell again, and thrust my legs between the shrouds and ratline, and there hung. The mate hearing the rigging shake, cried out, "who is there?" I answered some way, scarce knowing how. He, knowing my voice, came running to help me to the deck, when I fainted and fell. He picked me up, and placed me on the after hatchway. At that moment a tremendous sea struck the vessel, carrying the mate and myself into the lee scupper. Assistance being at hand, we were taken out, and I carried to the cabin. It was sometime before I came to my senses. Found three of my ribs broken, and bruised much elsewhere. I was carried into the forecastle, where I remained suffering most extremely for a long time; and have hardly, I may say, recovered from the effects to the present day. The gale continued with unabated fury. The latitude being nearly run out, the ship was hove to with her head to the west. There we lay drifting four weeks. Fell in with mountains of ice, commonly known as icebergs, of vast dimensions, and of almost every form. An estimate was made of the size of one supposed to be the largest seen. It seemingly was an hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high; and, as is a fact,the volume of ice is to that of sea water as 10 to 9, consequently the ice, which rises above the water, is to that which sinks below as 1 to 9. Then allowing this mass to have been 150 feet above the water, and of regular shape, it would sink below the surface about 1350 feet, making a huge mass of some 1500 feet high. Capt. Cook, in his voyage in 1773, describes one as being 600 feet high above the water, making, as he estimated, 5,400 feet to be its entire height. "And yet," says Cook, "the sea broke over them." They exhibited for a few moments a view very pleasing to the eye; but a sense of danger soon filled the mind with horror; for had the ship struck against the weather side of one of those islands, when the sea ran high, she would instantly have been dashed in pieces.

At length these islands became as familiar to those on board as the clouds and the sea. Whenever a strong reflection of white was seen on the skirts of the sky, near the horizon, then ice was sure to be encountered. Notwithstanding which, the substance was not entirely white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the sea, with a most beautiful sapphirine, or rather beryline blue, evidently reflected from the water. This blue color sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the surface, and was probably produced by particles of sea water, which had been dashed against the mass in tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into its interstices. In the evening, the sun setting just behind one of these masses, tinged its edges with gold, and reflected on the entire mass a beautiful suffusion of purple. In the larger masses were frequently observed shades or casts of white, lying above each other in strata, sometimesof six inches, and at other times of a foot in height.

This appearance seemed to confirm the opinion entertained relative to the increase and accumulation of such huge masses of ice, by heavy falls of snow at different intervals; for snow being of various kinds, small grained, and large grained, in light feathery locks, &c., the various degrees of compactness may account for the various colors of strata. The approximation of several fields of ice, of different magnitudes produces a very singular phenomenon.

The smaller of these masses are forced out of the water, and thrown on the larger ones, until at length an aggregate is formed of a tremendous height. These accumulated bodies of ice float in the sea like so many rugged mountains, and are continually increased in height by the freezing of the spray of the sea, and the melting of the snow which falls on them.

The collision of great fields of ice, in high latitudes is attended by a noise, which for a time, takes away the sense of hearing any thing beside; and that of the smaller fields, with a grinding of unspeakable horror.

The water which dashes against the mountainous ice, freezes into an infinite variety of forms, and presents to the admiring view of the voyager, ideal towns, streets, churches, steeples, and almost every form which imagination can picture to itself.

Our course was very much impeded by immense fields of low ice, the extent of which could scarcely be seen; these low fields, called the meadows, are the sporting grounds of seals, and often hundreds are seen at a time frolicking on them. After passing six weeksin dodging the ice, the wind favored us, and we shaped our course for the island of Juan Fernandez, which lies off the coast of Chili, about 350 miles, is inhabited by a few Spaniards, and is famous as having been the solitary residence of Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, whose singular adventure gave rise to a novel known as the adventures of Robinson Crusoe. We spent a few days on shore getting goats, potatoes, fruit, &c., for the ship; from thence we stood for the Sandwich Islands, and came to anchor at Hawaii about the first of April.

Stewart in his Geographical sketch of them, says:—"The Sandwich Islands are situated in the Pacific ocean, between 18° 50' and 22° 20' north latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15', west longitude from Greenwich. They are about 2800 miles distant from the coast of Mexico, on the east; about 5000 from the shores of China, on the west; and 2700 from the Society Islands on the south.

"The Islands are ten in number, stretching, as may be seen from a chart, in a flattened curve, E. S. E., and W. N. W. in the following order: Hawaii, Maui, Molokini, Kahulawe, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai, Nihan, and Kaula.

"Hawaii, the most southern and eastern island, is the largest of the group. It is about ninety-seven miles long, and seventy-eight broad, covering a surface of 4000 square miles, and containing 85,000 inhabitants.

"Maui lies northwest from Hawaii, and is separated from it by a channel twenty-four miles wide. This island formed by two mountainous peninsulas, connected by a narrow neck of low land, is forty-eight miles long, and at its greatest width twenty-nine mileswide. It covers about 600 square miles, and is supposed to have a population of 20,000 people.

"Molokini is a barren rock, rising only fifteen or twenty feet above the level of the ocean, at a distance of four or five miles from the western shore of the southern peninsular of Maui. Kahulawe lies in the same direction from Maui, six or eight miles beyond Molokini. It is only eleven miles long, and eight broad, and has but few inhabitants.

"Lanai is situated twenty miles northwest from Kahulawe, and ten or twelve miles directly west from the northern peninsula of Maui. It is seventeen miles long and nine broad, covering about 110 square miles, with a population of 2000 or 3000.

"Molokai lies west-north-west from Maui, and is separated from it by a channel ten miles wide. A passage of about the same width divides it on the south from Lanai. Molokai is forty miles long and seven broad, covering 170 square miles, and containing three or four thousand inhabitants.

"Oahu lies twenty-seven miles northwest from Molokai; is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-three in breadth, with a surface of 520 square miles, and a population of 20,000. It affords the best harbor in the group, and is the most fertile and beautiful of the islands.

"Kauai is seventy-five miles northwest from Oahu. It is thirty-three miles long, and twenty-eight broad, covering 520 square miles, and has about 10,000 inhabitants.

"Nihan lies southwest from Kauai fifteen miles, and is twenty miles long and seven broad. The number of itsinhabitants is small. Kaula, situated seventeen miles southwest of Nihan, like Molokini, is an uninhabited rock, visited only for the eggs of sea fowl which frequent it in great numbers, and there hatch their young.

"These islands were discovered in the year 1778, by Captain James Cook, of the British Navy, and from him in honor of Earl Sandwich, the first lord of the admiralty, received the name by which they are at present designated. The tragical and lamented death of this celebrated navigator at Hawaii, in the succeeding year, caused their existence to be made known to the civilized world, with an excitement of feeling that deeply stamped the event on the public mind. No foreign ship visited the group again until the year 1786, when the ill-fated La Perouse touched at Maui; and about the same time two vessels, engaged in the trade of the North-west Coast, procured refreshments at the island of Oahu. These were early succeeded by several others; and in 1792 and 1794, by the expedition under the command of Vancouver."

After having secured a sufficient quantity of provision, we were allowed liberty on shore; this liberty to one who had been shut up within the confines of a ship, was indeed exhilarating.

In one of our rambles we fell in with a native, with whom we bargained for a dinner. He immediately sat himself about it. When cooked, it was served up in a calabash, or gourd; we seated ourselves upon the ground, around the dishes, and commenced operation; all were particularly fond of the meat which he had furnished, yet knew not what it was; on inquiry, we were told in broken English, "poy-poy," at the sametime he gave a most knowing kind of a laugh. We then half suspected foul play, and again sternly interrogating him as to the kind of meat, received in reply, "cow, cow," which signified dog. Each looked at the other, scarce knowing what to do. Some began vomiting; as for myself, I relished it, while supposing it something else; and at that late hour thought it folly to make much ado about it. The joke was often referred to quite to the discomfiture of those upon whom it was forced.

We were next allowed liberty of forty-eight hours on shore, which we improved by visiting the volcano of Kilauea.

As this volcano was visited in the year 1825, by Lord Byron, S. C. Stewart, and other distinguished and scientific gentlemen, accompanied by the officers and crew of his majesty's ship Blonde, with an escort of one hundred natives, I would refer my readers to a description given by Stewart, believing it to be the most graphic ever given, which will be found in the following chapter.

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