CHAPTER V.Description of the Volcano of Kilauea, at Hawaii.Every preparation having been previously made, we left the harbor shortly after sunrise. The uncommon beauty of the morning proved a true omen of the delightful weather with which we were favored during the whole of our absence. The rich coloring of Mounakea in the early sun, never called forth higher or more general admiration. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the air, the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, excited a buoyancy of spirit favorable to the accomplishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between us and the object of our journey.******For the first four miles the country was open and uneven, and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, and single trees of the bread fruit, pandanus, and candle tree. We then came to a wood, four miles in width, the outskirts of which exhibited a rich and delightful foliage. It was composed principally of the candle tree, whose whitish leaves and blossoms afforded a fine contrast to the dark green of the various parasitical plants which hung in luxuriant festoons and pendants from their very tops to the ground, forming thick and deeply shaded bowers round their trunks. The interior was far less interesting, presenting nothing but an impenetrable thicket, on both sides of the path. This wasexcessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of loose and pointed pieces of lava, which from their irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore our shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles. The high brake, ginger, &c., which border and overhung the path, were filled with the rain of the night, and added greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleasantness of the walk. An hour and a half, however, saw us safely through, and refreshing ourselves in the charming groves with which the wood was here again bordered. The whole of the way from this place to within a short distance of the volcano, is very much of one character. The path, formed of black lava, so smooth in some places as to endanger falling, and still showing the configuration of the molten stream as it had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, leads midway through a strip of open uncultivated country, from three to five miles wide, skirted on both sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered with fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of the whortleberry. The fruit of this, of the size of a small gooseberry, and of a bright yellow color, tinged on one side with red, was very abundant, and though of insipid taste, refreshing from its juice. There are no houses near the path, but the thatch of a cottage was occasionally observed peeping from the edge of the wood; and here and there the white smoke of a kindling fire curled above the thick foliage of the trees. Far on the right and west, Mounaloa and Mounakea were distinctly visible; and at an equal distance, on the left, and east, the ocean, with its horizon—from the height at which we viewed it, mingling with the sky.We dined thirteen miles from the bay, under a large candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by a party of people who had been waiting by the wayside to see the "alii nui mai Perekania mai," the great chief from Britain. About two miles farther we came to the houses erected for our lodgings the first night. Thinking it, however, too early to lie for the day, after witnessing a dance performed by a company from the neighboring settlements, we hastened on, intending to sleep at the next houses, ten miles distant; but night overtaking us before we reached them, just as darkness set in we turned aside a few rods to the ruins of two huts, the sticks only of which remaining. The natives, however, soon covered them with fern, the leaves of the Kukui, &c., a quantity of which they also spread upon the ground, before spreading the mats which were to be our beds.Our arrival and encampment produced quite a picturesque and lively scene; for the islanders, who are not fond of such forced marches as we had made during the day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, and proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations for the night.The darkness, as it gathered round us, rendered more gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty of our situation still more striking.Behind the huts, in the distance, an uplifted torch of the blazingkukuinuthere and there indistinctly revealed the figures and costume of many, spreading their couches under the bushes in the open air; the more curious of our dusky companions, both male and female, meanwhilepressing in numbers round our circle, as if anxious to "catch the manners living as they rose."A large fire of brush wood, at some distance in front, exhibited the objects of the foreground in still strongerlights and shadows. Groups of both sexes, and all ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped up from the chillness of the evening air, in their largekiheisor mantles, of white, black, green, yellow, and red.Some smoking, some throwing in, and others snatching from the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of food; some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call of a straggler just arriving; others wholly taken up with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our suppers, and all chattering with the volubility of so many magpies.By daylight the next morning we were on the road again.At nine o'clock we passed the last houses put up for our accommodation on the way; and at eleven o'clock had arrived within three miles of the object of our curiosity.For the last hour the scenery had become more interesting; our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves and clusters of trees, and fringed with a greater variety of vegetation. Here also the smoke from the volcano was first discovered, settling in light fleecy clouds to the southwest.Our resting place at this time was a delightful spot, commanding a full view of the wide extent of country over which we had traveled, and beyond and around it, the ocean, which, from the vast and almost undistinguishedextent of its horizon, seemed literally an "illimitable sea."The smooth greensward, under the shade of a majestic acacia, almost encircled by thickets of a younger growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to take our luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried but a few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object before us.The nearer we approached, the more heavy the columns of smoke appeared, and roused to intenseness our curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of this excitement, we hastened forward with rapid steps, regardless of the heat of a noonday sun, and the fatigue of a walk of thirty-six miles, already accomplished.A few minutes before twelve o'clock, we came suddenly on the brink of a precipice, one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high, covered with shrubbery and trees. Descending this by a path almost perpendicular, we crossed a plain half a mile in width, enclosed, except in the direction we were going, by the cliff behind us, and found ourselves a second time on the top of a precipice four hundred feet high, also covered with bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept off to the right and left, enclosing in a semi-circular form, a level space about a quarter of a mile broad; immediately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our search, emitting volumes of vapor and smoke; and laboring and groaning as if in inexpressible agony from the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom. We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance.Then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height, and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater.There are scenes, to which description, and even painting can do no justice, and in conveying any adequate impression of which they must ever fail. Of such, an elegant traveler rightly says, "the height, the depth, the length, the breadth, the combined aspect, may all be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will remain untouched by the emotions of admiration and sublimity which the eye-witness experiences." That which here burst on our sight was emphatically of this kind, and to behold it without singular and deep emotion, would demand a familiarity with the more terrible phenomena of nature which few have the opportunity of acquiring. Standing at an elevation of one thousand five hundred feet, we looked into a black and horrid gulf, not less than eight miles in circumference, so directly beneath us that, in appearance, we might by a single leap have plunged into its lowest depth. The hideous immensity itself, independent of the many frightful images which it embraced, almost caused an involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But when to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various unnatural and fearful noises, the muttering and sighing, the groaning and blowing, the every agonized struggling of the mighty action within—as a whole it is too horrible! And for the first moment I felt like one of my friends, who on reaching the brink, recoiled and covered his face, exclaiming, "call it weakness, or what you please, but I cannot look again."It was sufficient employment for the afternoon simply to sit and gaze on the scene, and though some ofour party strolled about, and one or two descended a short distance into the crater, the most of our number deferred all investigation until the next morning.From what I have already said, you will perceive that this volcano differs in one respect from most others of which we have accounts. The crater instead of being the truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in an upland country, near the base of the mountain Monnaloa—approached not by ascending a cone, but by descending two vast terraces; and not visible from any point at a greater distance than half a mile, a circumstance, which, no doubt, from the suddenness of the arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from the brink. It is probable that it was originally a cone, but assumed its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, from the falling in of the whole summit. Of this, the precipices we descended, which entirely encircle the crater in circumferences, of fifteen and twenty miles, give strong evidence. They have unquestionably been formed by the sinking of the mountain, whose foundations had been undermined by the devouring flames beneath. In the same manner one half of the present depth of the crater has at no very remote period been formed. About midway from the top a ledge of lava, in some places only a few feet, but in others many rods wide, extends entirely round, at least as far as an examination has been made; forming a kind of gallery—to which you can descend, in two or three places, and walk, as far as the smoke, settling at the south end, will permit. This offset bears incontestible marks of having once been the level of the fiery flood, now boilingin the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, by some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, and sunk the abyss many hundred feet to its present depth. The gulf below contains probably not less than sixty—fifty-six have been counted—smaller conical craters, many of which are in constant action. The tops and sides of two or three of these are covered with sulphur, of mingled shades of yellow and green, with this exception, the ledge and every thing below it are of a dismal black. The upper cliffs, on the northern and western sides, are perfectly perpendicular, and of a red color, everywhere exhibiting the scarred marks of former powerful ignition. Those on the eastern side are less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, of a delicate and beautiful yellow. The south end is wholly obscured by smoke, which fills that part of the crater, and spreads widely over the surrounding horizon. As the darkness of night gathered round us, new and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after fire, which the glare of mid-day had entirely concealed, began to glimmer on the eye with the first shades of evening, and as the darkness increased, appeared in such rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty lighting of the lamps of a city on the sudden approach of a gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters nearest to us were in full action, every moment casting out stones and ashes, and lava, with heavy detonations, while the irritated flames accompanying them, glared widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides of the ledge and upper cliffs, richly illuminating the volumes of smoke at the south end, and occasionally casting a bright reflection on the bosom of a passingcloud. The great seat of action, however, seemed to be at the southern and western end, where an exhibition of ever-varying fire-works was presented, surpassing in beauty and sublimity all that the ingenuity of art ever devised. Rivers of fire were seen rolling in splendid corruscation among the laboring craters, and on one side a whole lake, whose surface constantly flashed and sparkled with the agitation of contending currents.Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued it was near midnight before we gave ourselves rest, often interrupted during the night, to gaze on the sight with renewed wonder and surprise.As I laid myself down on my mat—fancying that the very ground which was my pillow shook beneath my head—the silent musings of my mind were:—"Great and marvelous are thy works, Lord, God Almighty! greatly art thou to be feared, thou King of saints!"The next morning we prepared for a descent into the crater.One of the few places where this is practicable was within a rod of the hut where we lodged. For the first four hundred feet the path was steep, and from the looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required caution in every movement. A slight touch was sufficient to detach these and send them bounding downwards hundreds of feet to the imminent danger of any one near them. The remaining distance of about the same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path having turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, which ran off in an inclined plain, until it met the ledgebefore described more than a quarter of a mile west of the place where we began the descent. Previous to our descent we had provided ourselves with long canes and poles, by which we might test the soundness of any spot before stepping on it, and immediately on reaching the ledge, we found the wisdom of the precaution. This offset is formed wholly of scoria and lava, mostly burned to a cinder and everywhere intersected by deep crevices and chasms, from many of which light smoke and vapor were emitted, and from others a scalding steam.The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation, retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice, while the hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, sufficiently assured us of the unsubstantial character of the whole mass.In some places by thrusting our stick down with force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep fissures, and holes apparently without bottom. These, however, were generally too small to appear dangerous. The width of this ledge is constantly diminishing in a greater or less degree, by the falling of large masses from its edges into the crater; and it is not improbable that in some future convulsion, the whole structure may yet be plunged into the abyss below.Leaving the sulphur banks on the western side behind us, we directed our course along the northern part to the western cliff. As we advanced these became more and more perpendicular, until they presented nothing but the bare and upright face of an immense wall,from eight to ten hundred feet high, on whose surface huge stones and rocks hung apparently so loosely as to threaten falling at the agitation of a breath. In many places a white curling vapor issued from the sides and summit of the precipice, and in two or three streams of clay-colored lava, like some waterfall extending almost from the top to the bottom, had cooled evidently at a very recent period. At almost every step, something new attracted our attention, and by stopping sometimes to look up, not without a feeling of apprehension, at the enormous masses above our heads, at others to gain by a cautious approach to the brink of the gulf, a nearer glance at the equally frightful depth below; at one time turning aside to ascertain the heat of a column of steam and at another to secure some unique or beautiful specimen, we occupied more than two hours in proceeding the same number of miles.At that distance from our entrance on the ledge we came to a spot on the western side, where it widened many hundred feet and terminated next the crater, not as in most other places, perpendicularly, but in an immense heap of broken slabs and blocks of lava, loosely piled together, as they had fallen in some convulsion of the mountain, and jutting off to the bottom in a frightful mass of ruin. Here we had been informed the descent into the depths of the crater could be most easily made, but being without a guide we were entirely at a loss what course to take, until we unexpectedly descried the gentlemen who had preceded us re-ascending. They dissuaded us most strenuously from proceeding further, but their lively representations of the difficulty and dangers of the way only strengthened our resolution togo down, and knowing that the crater had been crossed at this end, we hastened on, notwithstanding the refusal of the guide to return with us.The descent was as perilous as it had been represented, but by proceeding with great caution, testing well the safety of every step before committing our weight to it, and often stopping to select the course which seemed least hazardous, in the space of about twenty minutes, by a zigzag way, we reached the bottom without any accident of greater amount than a few scratches on the hands from the sharpness and roughness of the lava, by which we had occasionally been obliged to support ourselves. When we were about half way down we were encouraged to persevere in our undertaking, by meeting a native who had descended on the opposite side and passed over. It was only however from the renewed assurance it gave of the practicability of the attempt, for besides being greatly fatigued, he was much cut and bruised from a fall; said the bottom was "ino-ino loaka wahi O debelo!"—"excessively bad the place of the devil!"—and could be prevailed on to return with us only by the promise of a large reward.It is difficult to say whether sensations of admiration or of terror predominated, on reaching the bottom of this tremendous spot. As I looked up at the gigantic wall, which on every side rose to the very clouds, I felt oppressed to a most unpleasant degree, by a sense of confinement.Either from the influence of imagination, or from the actual effect of the immense power of a noonday sun beating directly on us, in addition to the heated andsulphureous atmosphere of the volcano itself, I for some moments experienced an agitation of spirits, and difficulty of respiration, that made me cast a look of wishful anxiety towards our little hut, which, at an elevation of near fifteen hundred feet seemed only like a bird's nest on the opposite cliff. These emotions, however, soon passed off, and we began with great spirit and activity, the enterprise before us. I can compare the general aspect of the bottom of the crater, to nothing that will give a livelier image of it to the mind than the appearance of a lake would present, if the ice with which it was covered in the winter was suddenly broken up by a heavy storm, and as suddenly frozen again, while large slabs and blocks were still toppling and dashing and heaping against each other with the motion of the waves. Just so rough and distorted was the black mass under our feet, only a hundred fold more terrific, independently of the innumerable cracks, fissures, deep chasms and holes, from which sulphureous vapor, steam and smoke were exhaled, with a degree of heat that testified to the near vicinity of fire.We had not proceeded far, before our path was intersected by a chasm at least thirty feet wide, and of greater depth than we could ascertain, at the nearest distance we dare approach. The only alternative was to return or follow its course until it terminated or became narrow enough to be crossed. We chose the latter, but soon met an equally formidable obstacle, in a current of smoke, so highly impregnated with a suffocating gas as not to allow of respiration. What a situation for a group of half a dozen men, totally unaware of the extent of peril to which they might beexposed! The lava on which we stood was in many places so hot, that we could not hold for a moment in our hands the pieces which we knocked off for specimens.On one side lay a gulf of unfathomable depth, on the other an inaccessible pile of ruins, and immediately in front an oppressive and deadly vapor. While hesitating what to do, we perceived the smoke to be swept occasionally, by an eddy of the air, in a direction opposite to that in which it most of the time settled. And watching an opportunity, when our way was thus made clear, we held our breath and ran as rapidly as the dangerous character of the path would permit, until we had gained a place beyond its ordinary course. We here unexpectedly found ourselves also delivered from the other impediment to our progress; for the chasm abruptly ran off in a direction far from that we wished to pursue. Our escape from the vapor however was that which we considered the most important: and so great was our impression of the danger to which we had been exposed from it, that when we saw our way to the opposite side open, without any special obstacle before us, we felt disposed formally to return thanks to Almighty God for our deliverance. But before this was proposed most of our number had gone forward so far as to be out of call; and for the time the external adoration of the Creator, from the midst of one of the most horrible of his works, was reluctantly waived.At an inconsiderable distance from us was one of the largest of the conical craters, whose laborious action had so greatly impressed our minds during the night; and we hastened to a nearer examination of it; so prodigiousan engine I never expect again to behold. On reaching its base, we judged it to be one hundred and fifty feet high, a huge irregularly shapen, inverted funnel of lava covered with clefts, orifices, and tunnels, from which bodies of steam escaped with deafening explosion, while pale flames, ashes, stones, and lava, were propelled with equal force and noise from its ragged and yawning mouth. The whole formed so singularly terrific an object, that in order to secure a hasty sketch of it, I permitted the other gentlemen to go a few yards nearer than I did, while I occupied myself with my pencil. One of the company with his servant ascended the cone several feet, but found the heat too great to remain longer than to detach with their sticks, a piece or two of recent lava, burning hot. So highly was our admiration excited by the scene, that we forgot the danger to which we might be exposed should any change take place in the currents of destructive gas—which exists to a greater or less degree in every part of the crater—until one of the gentlemen, after two or three intimations of the propriety of an immediate departure, warned us in a most decided tone, not only as a friend, but as a professional gentleman, of the peril of our situation, assuring us, that three inspirations of the air by which we might be surrounded, would prove fatal to every one of us. We felt the truth of the assertion, and notwithstanding the desire we had of visiting a similar cone covered with a beautiful incrustation of sulphur, at the distance from us, of a few hundred yards only, we hastily took the speediest course from so dangerous a spot. The ascent to the ledge was not less difficult and frightful than the descent had been, and for the lastfew yards was almost perpendicular. But we all succeeded in safely gaining its top, not far from the path by which we had in the morning descended the upper cliff.We reached the hut about two o'clock, nearly exhausted from fatigue, thirst and hunger, and had immediate reason to congratulate ourselves, on a most narrow escape from suffering and extreme danger, if not from death. For, on turning round, we perceived the whole chasm to be filling with thick sulphureous smoke; and within half an hour, it was so completely choked with it, that not an object below us was visible. Even where we were, in the unconfined region above, the air became so oppressive as to make us think seriously of a precipitate retreat. This continued to be the case for the greater part of the afternoon. A dead calm took place, both within and without the crater, and from the diminution of noise, and the various signs of action, the volcano itself seemed to be resting from its labors.One of the company, during a morning ramble, had gathered two large buckets of fine strawberries, which made a delightful dessert at our dinner. The mountains of Hawaii are the only parts of the island on which this delicious fruit is found. A large red raspberry is also abundant on them; but even when fully ripe, it has a rough acid taste similar to that of an unripe blackberry. The flavor of the strawberry, however, is as fine as that of the same fruit in America.Towards evening the smoke again rolled off to the south, before a fresh breeze, and every thing assumed its ordinary aspect. At this time we succeeded in getting sufficient data to calculate the height of the upper cliff;and made it nine hundred feet. If this be correct, it is judged that the height of the ledge cannot be less than six hundred feet; making the whole depth of the crater that which I have stated in the preceding pages, fifteen hundred feet. On similar grounds, the circumference of the crater at its bottom has been estimated at a distance of from five to seven miles; and at its top from eight to ten miles.Greatly to our regret we found it would be necessary to set off on our return early the next morning; all the provisions of the natives being entirely expended. We could have passed a week here with undiminished interest, and wished to remain at least one day longer to visit the sulphur banks, which abound with beautiful chrystalizations, and to make some researches on the summit. We would have been glad also to have added to the variety of specimens already collected, especially of the volcanic sponge, and capillary volcanic glass, not found on the side of the crater where we encamped; but it was impossible; and we made preparations for an early departure. Just as these were completed, in the edge of the evening, another party from the same ship, consisting of about a dozen midshipmen arrived, with whom we shared our lodgings for the night.The splendid illuminations of the preceding evening were again lighted up with the closing of the day; and after enjoying their beauty for two or three hours with renewed delight, we early sought a repose which the fatigue of the morning had rendered most desirable. The chattering of the islanders around our cabins, and the occasional sound of voices in protracted conversation among our own number, had however, scarcelyceased long enough to admit of sound sleep, when the volcano again began roaring, and laboring with redoubled activity. The confusion of noises was prodigiously great. In addition to all we had before heard, there was an angry muttering from the very bowels of the abyss, accompanied at intervals by what appeared the desperate effort of some gigantic power struggling for deliverance. These sounds were not fixed or confined to one place, but rolled from one end of the crater to the other; sometimes seeming to be immediately under us—when a terrible tremor of the ground on which we lay, took place—and then again rushing to the farthest end with incalculable velocity. The whole air was filled with tumult; and those most soundly asleep were quickly roused by it to thorough wakefulness. Lord Byron springing up in his cot exclaiming, "We shall certainly have an eruption; such power must burst through every thing!" He had barely ceased speaking, when a dense column of heavy black smoke was seen rising from the crater, directly in front of us, the subterranean struggle ceased, and immediately after flames burst from a large cone, near which we had been in the morning, and which then appeared to have been long inactive. Red hot stones, cinders, and ashes, were also propelled to a great height with immense violence; and shortly after the molten lava came boiling up, and flowed down the sides of the cone, and over the surrounding scoria, in two beautiful curved streams, glittering with indescribable brilliance.At the same time a whole lake of fire opened in a more distant part. This could not have been less than two miles in circumference, and its action was morehorribly sublime than any thing I ever imagined to exist, even in the ideal visions of unearthly things. Its surface had all the agitation of an ocean; billow after billow tossed its monstrous bosom in the air, and occasionally those from different directions burst with such violence, as in the concussion to dash the fiery spray, seemingly, forty and fifty feet high. It was at once the most splendidly beautiful, and dreadfully fearful of spectacles, and irresistibly turned the thoughts to that lake of fire, from whence we are told, the smoke of torment shall ascend for ever and ever.No work of Him who laid the foundations of the earth, and who by his almighty power still supports them, ever brought to my mind the more awful revelations of his Word with such overwhelming impression. Truly, "With God is terrible Majesty!" Let all the nations say unto God, "How terrible art thou in thy works."Under the name of Pele, this volcano was one of the most distinguished, and most feared of the former gods of Hawaii. Its terrific features, are well suited to the character and abode of an unpropitious demon; and few works in nature, would be more likely to impose thoughts of terror on the ignorant and superstitious, and from their destructive ravages lead to sacrifices of propitiation and peace. It is now rapidly losing its power over the minds of the people. Not one of the large number of our company, seemed to be at all apprehensive of it as a supernatural being.After an almost sleepless night, we early turned our faces homeward, not without many a "lingering look behind," even at the very entrance of our path. It wasprecisely six o'clock when the last of our party left the brink.Never was there a more delightful morning. The atmosphere was perfectly clear, and the air, with the thermometer at 56 degrees Fahrenheit, fine and bracing. A splendid assemblage of strong and beautifully contrasted colors glowed around us. The bed of the crater still covered with the broad shadow of the eastern banks was of jetty blackness. The reflection of the early sun, added a deeper redness to the western cliffs; those opposite were of a bright yellow, while the body of smoke rising between them, hung in a white drapery of pearly whiteness, against the deep azure of the southern sky. Mounaloa and Mounakea, in full view in the west, were richly clothed in purple; and the long line of intervening forest, the level over which we were passing, and the precipice by which it is encircled, thickly covered with trees and shrubbery, exhibited an equally bright and lively green.CHAPTER VI.Sail for the "Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to anchor at Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. Reach the human habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, who takes us to St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Governor. Thrown into a Calaboose. Released by the Captain. Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the Galapagos. Scenes at that group. Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society Islands. Run upon the Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to dive for it. Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin and Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. Touch at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig Doll. Arrive at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phosphoretic scene. A heavy storm. Seven men lost. Flee to the boats. The ship runs upon the rocks.On our return from the volcano, we took on wood, water, and other necessaries for the voyage, and stood for the "Off shore ground," or the Coast of Peru, where we cruised two months with the poorest luck. Sick at heart, we put into Payta, one of the ports of Peru.The poor success which had attended us, caused the greatest dissatisfaction among the crew, yet none attributed it to the officers of the ship. Myself and two others concluded to try our luck in another way; together we formed a plan to leave the ship, secrete ourselves in the woods until her departure, we would then return to the shore, and see what chance would favor us with.When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we took as much salt beef, bread, and water, as we could carry without detection, and started for the woods, which lay but a short distance from the shore; they were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an immense sand plain or desert, without bush or shrub of any kind. The light drifting sand soon obliterated all traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to reach the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost sight of the woods: to retrace our steps was now utterly impossible—our footprints were no longer visible—we now realized the true character of our situation—parched with thirst—worn with fatigue—amidst an ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream appeared to cheer the lonely wanderer. We sat ourselves sat down upon the burning sand, beneath a torrid sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. The saltness of the meat greatly increased our thirst; we at length fell in with our own footprints, nearly filled with sand. We sat down in despair; the sun having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, which we followed, until it sank beneath the horizon; night came, and found us still hungry and shelterless. Having eaten our last morsel, and drank our last drop of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we slept but very little. We spread our flannel shirts upon the sand, and when they were saturated with dew, (the dews of the country are very heavy, and supply the deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would wring them, and suck the moisture; this being oftenrepeated, alleviated our thirst somewhat. No mind can form any description, or form to itself any definite idea of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our steps. With joy we welcomed the approach of morning, hoping that ere another day should pass, we should be able to find some means of rescue from our horrible situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed with the heat of the sun upon the head; and our tongues were so swollen as to render our mouths hardly able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. Driven to the last extremity, we resorted to the use of our own urine, for the alleviation of our thirst; this was repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we started again: after wandering a long time, we fell in with the tracks of a horse or mule. So excessive was our joy at this discovery, that we almost forgot our fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy however, was soon at an end. for the tracks were obliterated, and we were as bad off as before, and worse even; for having seen the light, the darkness was still deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for some time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our wretchedness. With the closest scrutiny we followed the tracks; about midnight, (as near as we could judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried "land ahead," much to our joy. On we passed, and found it to be low shrubbery, about three feet high. Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so rejoiced were we to find any living thing.Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the greatest avidity. As we went on, the path increased in size. Soon we heard the loud barking of a dog; never before was such a welcome so well received.This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we were near habitations of some kind, little caring what. But a short time elapsed before we came upon a house, evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who cried lustily in Spanish, "Who is there? what do you want?" Fortunately for us, one of our number understood the language sufficiently well to make our wants known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his house was immediately opened, and we were welcome to such as he had, viz: dried beef and milk: this, to the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the choicest kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was the danger of our eating too much: this, reason strongly pointed out to us, but appetite got the ascendency, and before we were aware of it we were in as great danger from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue. Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed assistance. His repeated kindnesses induced us to place unlimited confidence in him; we told him of our deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He cunningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, to take a ride to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen miles from Payta. We mounted the asses and proceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were given up to the governor as deserters, and confined. The Spaniard received a reward for delivering us up to the proper authorities. This we could not approve,though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his country. The next morning we were fitted out for Payta, guarded by six Spanish soldiers, all on asses. Our route lay along the coast, and was indeed very pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suffering on the plain, we hardly realized that we were prisoners strongly guarded, so merrily we passed along. The soldiers were themselves very joyful.On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison for safe keeping. Our captain was then notified of our apprehension, and came to see us, and asked us if we were willing to go to our duty like faithful men. That we assured him we would most certainly do. Manifesting much indifference he turned away, saying he would see what the charges were, and think about releasing us. The prison into which we were thrown was of the most filthy kind; my mind recoils with horror at the thought of it. We passed the night without closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of enormous size were jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, consisting of jerk beef, brown bread, and cold water. So loathsome was the place that we would almost have rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expectation for the re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or at least hoping he would bring a release. At length he came, having paid twenty-five dollars for us. We went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, as we thought, dearly as deserters.I propose here giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of Peru, but owing to the insufficient timeallotted common sailors for getting any definite idea of the countries which they may visit, I shall be obliged to couple the statements of others with my own observation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square miles in area. The Andes range of mountains extend through this country, the highest point of which is 22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba. The celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation exceeding 18,000 feet. In the eastern Andes remains of mining excavations are found at an elevation of 16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The entry to the gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is close to the region of eternal snow. Intersecting the country in different directions are other ranges of mountains, which do not properly belong to the Andes; these are of various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru proper, which is merely a narrow strip, and also of the various chains of mountains which contain between them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic streams, this country contains immense plains, or pampas, as they are called by the Spanish, extending from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese frontier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in equal breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters through the centre of this continental steppe; and these plains are so abundantly watered, that they are everywhere fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests. The most noted of these plains contains more than 60,000 square miles; and is capable of supporting 5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the "Steppe of the Holy Sacrament."The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this country, among the Andes, in a number of head streams. Those streams which empty into the Pacific, flowing from the western side of the Andes, are of but little importance, being quite small in size. The climate of the country is variable; that of the Coast or Low Peru, is dry and temperate; that of the Sierras mild, that of the Andes piercingly cold; and that of the Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, if we can judge from the long life of its inhabitants. Persons are often found living at the age of 120, and sometimes reach the extreme age of 150 years. A Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of Caxamarea, aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, leaving 800 lineal descendants. But such extreme age is by no means common to the whole country. The climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The warmth and extreme humidity render them almost uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes on the rivers rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to the almost insuperable barriers to communication with the coast, agriculture is generally speaking in a wretched state.Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the Montana Real, and on the banks of the Maranon. Flax is common, but the Indians leave the stems to perish, and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some districts a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality is not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively strong, and there is cinnamon stronger than that ofCeylon, though not so valuable for use. A great variety of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, Estalla enumerates the cedar, the olive, the wild orange, the incorruptiblealgorob, the palm, the willow, and many other trees. On the coast, and western slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pineapple, tumeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. No less than twenty-four species of pepper are raised in Peru. Tobacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the Andes. The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes are the different species ofcinchonas, or the salutary Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in metalic wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and of silver ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, and lead ore occur, frequently intermixed with white silver ore, and virgin silver, in threads. In many parts are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold is also obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the rivers. Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing to their being inundated by water, which has continued to gain on them so as to completely choke them.The principal silver mines were discovered in 1630, by an Indian shepherd, and though very badly wrought, they annually furnish near $2,500,000. These mines are usually called Pareo, and Cerro de Bombon. Humbolt calculates the produce of gold and silver at $6,000,000 annually. To this sum must be added the fraudulent exportation of silver, or what is denominated unregistered produce, on which no duty has been paid—this is estimated at $940,000.Mercury is found is abundance in Peru, which is not the case in any other part of Spanish America. The other minerals are numerous. There are many obstacles, however, to successful mining in Peru. One great difficulty is the ignorance of the miners in the science of amalgamation. Another is the want of capital; the operator being in most cases, in necessitous circumstances, is obliged to borrow money on very exorbitant interest to enable him to commence his works, and to sell the produce of his mines at a great sacrifice, in order to carry them on. The labor of the mines is principally performed by the Indians, as they only are able to endure the fatigue and unwholesomeness of the employment.The commerce of Peru consists for the most part in the interchange of the precious metals for foreign products, and manufactures; of which considerable quantities are imported. There is a great want of good roads and bridges in Peru; and in the little intercourse between the seaports and the interior of the country, almost every article of trade is carried on the backs of mules and lamas. The ancient Peruvians were partially civilized; they constructed numerous and excellent roads, and also built stone palaces of enormous size; were skilled in making vessels of gold and silver, and cultivated the land with much care.At the time of the Spanish conquest, Peru comprised a territory of much greater dimensions, than the modern state of the same name. Its kings were a dynasty of princes, called Incas; they were supposed to be descended from the sun, and were held sacred and adored by the people. At the time Pizarro took possession ofthis country, the reigning Incas were put to death, and the dominion of the Spanish sovereign established. This occurred forty years after the discovery of America.Peru with the other American provinces of Spain was long governed by Viceroys, appointed by the kings of that country; but in the year 1821, the people established a government of their own, and with the assistance of the Colombians achieved their independence in 1824, by the defeat of the last Spanish army at Ayachuco.In the year 1836, Peru was divided into the states of North Peru, and South Peru, which with Bolivia, were formed in the Peru-Bolivian confederation, under a chief magistrate styled the Supreme Protector. Three years afterwards, the army of the confederation was defeated by the Chilians, at Uraguay, and the Republic was dissolved.The Peruvians like the other people of South America, are composed of various races; the most numerous being the Creoles of European descent, and the Indians. There are many tribes of the Indians; they are much debased, and seldom cheerful. The Carapachas are exceedingly beautiful, and are said even to rival the Circassians; but their speech is very offensive, resembling the barking of dogs, owing to the guttural sounds. The women of some tribes are warlike. The Omagna tribe flatten the head, like some of the North American Indians. The Indians occupy the same place in society as in Mexico. They are idle, filthy, superstitious, and suspicious. Their dress and habitations are mean and poor; their capacities are very limited, and they havelittle variety of character. They are governed by native chiefs or caciques.The gentlemen of Peru imitate the English fashion of dress, and the ladies also, except in a peculiar walking dress, composed of a close petticoat of satin, &c., with a short cloak of silk drawn around the waist, and over the breast and head, half concealing the face. This dress is peculiar to Lima; the petticoat is elastic, and sets close enough to reveal the form. The hood, or manto, is probably a Moorish remnant. The dwellings of the Indians are mere huts, and generally architecture is in a much lower state than in Mexico. The roofs are flat, and the walls are often of wattled cane, plastered. The languages are the Spanish, and those of the Indians. The food does not essentially differ from that in the other South American States; and tobacco is very extensively used. There is little veal or lamb, and many sweetmeats are consumed. A fermented liquor, calledchichais made of maize, and used to considerable extent. The diseases are not peculiar. To travel in Peru, is a severe hardship and privation; the mule is much used. This animal is invaluable from its cautious instinct in passing the defiles or sides of the mountains, where a misstep would cast them to a measureless distance below. In many places where they cannot step, they protrude their feet, and slide downwards, directing their course with the utmost sagacity. It is not safe for the rider to assume any guidance over them, when he is riding with one leg over a precipice, while the other rubs against the side of the mountain.The hospitality of the Peruvians has no limits, and like the others of European descent in South America,they are distinguished for their paternal and filial virtues. The Creole ladies are good mothers, and wives, and almost every family is a happy circle. Dancing, music, tertulias, bull-fights, and cock-fighting are the common amusements. The negro slaves receive kind treatment, and are instructed in the christian religion. It is common to see the white children thus instructing those of a household. Education is little attended to, but more than under the old government. The ruling religion is the Roman Catholic.There is no country whose history is more interesting than Peru. Leaving Peru we stood for the Gallapagos, which lie off the coast about 200 miles, and form a considerable group intersected by the equator; though many of them are small, and covered with forests. Turtle are found here in great abundance, and of enormous size. Dodging about for a few days, we took three small whale; this place is famous as the resort of the sperm whale in the time of its having its young, being perfectly adapted to it. Soon as the young is born, it mounts the fin of its mother, and rides safely away. After the oil was tried, and stowed, the ship cleaned, &c., we put two boats in readiness, and rowed away for the shore in quest of turtle, or turpin, (a species of turtle;) we landed on a beautiful, low, sandy beach, a short distance from the shore; high craggy cliffs arose destitute of almost all verdure save the prickly pear bush, which grows to about the size of the American quince bush; the fruit is of a bright red, is covered with sharp, piercing prickles like the gooseberry: much difficulty arises in removing them; the fruit is most delicious; the trees and leaves are also coveredwith the same sharp hard prickles. We ascended the cliff, and wandered around an hour or two, and found nothing, save a few guana, an animal of the lizard appearance, though much larger. Many times they are found four or five feet long. The flesh is very tender, sweet and delicate, and is of great note among the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, as a fancy dish. Fell in with a large turpin, the first one any of us ever saw; when we came up with him, he retreated within his shell; we turned him over upon his back, to see his agility in turning himself back; he ran out his long neck, which was not less than two feet and a half long, and with his short legs labored most assiduously; he at length accomplished his object; this done, we laid hold of his legs, which were not more than six inches long, and started for the boat; when we came to a steep point in the path, we would place him upon the edge of his shell, and set him rolling,—many times a long way. After toiling a long time, we reached the boat. Soon others, who had gone in a different way, returned richly laden; they found one so very large, they were unable to bring it until divested of its shell. About thirty were taken during the few days we remained at this island. Getting ready we proceeded to sea, ran close to the rock of Dundas. This is a monumental rock of black granite, rearing its head eighty or an hundred feet above the water. The water around it is about sixty fathoms deep; the currents are such, that it is utterly impossible for ships to float or be driven against it; the sides are so bold that it cannot be ascended; boobys and other birds are always perched upon the top. The wind being light, we lowered ourboat and set lines for fishing; divided the seven lines between two boats, and in a couple of hours took about 400 large red fish, called by the seamen snappers; as fast as the lines could be set the fish were caught. We salted the principal part of them; we left the place and proceeded on our way, the wind and weather was most beautiful. Smoothly we glided along at the rate of four or five knots an hour, bound for the Society Islands. Fell in with a large number of whale going north; lowered away the boats; took seven, and had them alongside at dark: the ship was hove too, and the next morning the oil was tried; had 105 barrels.Passing Otaheite, we came abreast of the harbor of Emer; the high points of land on both sides becalmed us so we were obliged to lower our boats and take the ship in tow; we brought her into the harbor, and hove her anchor to keep her off the coral reef, which lay close under our lee. Before the sails could be furled, the ship was covered with females who had swam to her. Whether the use of the boats is forbidden them I know not, yet I presume such is the fact, with regard to this as well as to other islands; at any rate, during our stay I did not see any of them in a boat. Here we procured wood and water, and had liberty on shore; during our stay two men left the ship. Having once myself suffered much as a deserter, I chose to stay. When ready to leave, we hove up the anchor, and not having room enough for our vessel to cast, or turn, she ran directly upon the coral reef; we let go an anchor, but not in time to have it avail us any thing; then unshackling the chain, we lowered the kedge into a boat, carried it out astern the length of the line, and let her go; haulingaway upon the line, hove the ship off to a proper distance, and let go another anchor. We next went on shore to get divers to go for the anchor we first let go; the one first obtained was a young man altogether unexperienced in the art; his first dive proved ineffectual; when he came to the surface, the blood gushed from his nostrils in streams, and was with much difficulty stopped. The second one took his small line and succeeded in attaching it to the ring of the anchor; again diving, taking a large hawser with him, he fastened the small line to it, and again came to the surface; then with the small one, drew the hawser through the ring, and brought it to the ship's side. Veering away upon the hawser, we brought the ship directly over the anchor; manning the windlass, we hove the ship to her berth again; loosing down upon the anchor again, with the hawser veered away, and again brought the ship's bow directly over it, and hauled it to the water's edge, then hooking the cat-block secured it to the ship. Putting all things in readiness, we set sail; several days elapsed before we knew whither we were bound; at length the captain informed us that we were going to the Coast of Japan. A long time elapsed before we even saw the spout of a whales. Passing the meridian we fell in with a school of whale; took about 100 barrels of oil. Saw no more until off the coast of Japan.While on our way we took fish of many kinds, caught many dolphins, one of the beautiful inhabitants of the sea. "The general length of this fish appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears little resemblance to the representation of it seen on vases and in marine emblems and armorial bearings, but is very similar tothe white salmon-trout of the Otsego. When swimming in the water its colors appears exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the sides, vary from the hues of burnished steel to that of deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off in the under parts in pea-green and light yellow. One was struck with a harpoon and brought on deck, and we all hastened to witness the reported splendor of its colors when dying. We found them to be as truly beautiful as they have been described; consisting of rapid transitions from the deepest purple approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different hues, and several shades of silver, to an almost snow white, and then to purple again. The sight however was painful, from a kind of sympathy with the beautiful sufferer, we could but feel that the gratification of our curiosity was at the expense of its life. The colors soon became less and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely disappeared."The flying fish also attracted much attention. Many of them were taken as they flew on deck. They are of a slender proportion, about six inches long; they sometimes spring into the air even to the height of sixteen or eighteen feet, and swim horizontally through the air twenty or twenty-five feet, when they again fall into their native element. When under the surface they are incessantly pursued by dolphins, and while in the air they become the prey of sea gulls and other sea fowls, which are hovering over the sea in quest of food.A person ignorant of their nature would suppose them birds of small size, for like swallows they move by thousands in a right line, and always in a direction opposite that of the waves.At the island of Niphon we took several whale and blackfish; we also spoke several whale ships while cruising there.One day while in company with the ships, we saw a large school of whales at a distance. The boats were immediately lowered and all gave chase. We only took one, while some took two or three. One was taken along side and preparation made for boiling the oil. While in the midst of it a heavy squall arose from the northeast blowing like a perfect hurricane, threw our ship upon her beam ends, and sent the oil out of the pots, which were full, on to the men, severely scalding them.Every thing movable was capsized. Those below, thinking the vessel was going down, came hurriedly upon deck with horror most visibly depicted on their countenance. For some time all stood still, momentarily expecting the next moment would see us engulphed beneath the billows.Fortunately for us our sails were all stowed, as is customary in the time of boiling the oil, except a close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. The fore-sail was hauled up soon as possible, and the helm seized by one of the officers.The violence of the wind abated somewhat, when the rain came down in torrents, accompanied by lightning and thunder.The gale continued from the N. E. about six hours, when it suddenly shifted to the opposite point of the compass and blew, if possible, with redoubled energy, another six hours. The vessel creaked most terribly inher struggles, her lee gunwales in the water, and the sea breaking yard arm high.The captain thought proper at this time to lighten her of her top hamper. We were obliged to mount the masts to a distance of seventy or eighty feet, and when there, with every swell of the sea we would be carried with great velocity through a space of eighty or a hundred feet.The screams of those below, as they tried to make themselves heard, came to our ears, borne upon the tempest, like the shrieks of the dying. The mast and yards being let go eased her considerably, though the storm raged with unabated fury.Never before had I seen the sea presenting such an awful spectacle. "The fearful commotion which it was under was indeed indescribably sublime, yet was too dreadfully terrific, when at its height, to allow of much enjoyment. When it evidently begins to abate, and hope tells you the worst is passed, you are left to the indulgence of unmingled and enthusiastic admiration, and may gaze with delight at the ever varying scene, as wave after wave rears its monstrous head 'and casts its foaming horrors to the clouds.'"But, till this change does take place—while every successive blast blows harder and harder, and each billow threatens more surely than its precursor, to bury you under its weight,—it is impossible. Thoughts of fear must check, if they do not take entire place of the higher feelings of admiration."At length the fury of the tempest abated; we finished trying the oil, made sail and stood for the SandwichIslands. Nothing of note occurred while on the passage.Reached Maui the first of October, 1834. Having cut my foot on the passage, I was put under the charge of a resident physician, where I remained fourteen days. At the expiration of that time we took our departure from the island and stood away for the Navigators' Islands, cruising for whales, though taking only a few, and those very small.Cruising among the different groups, we reached Pitcairn's Island in the month of December.This island is noted as being the residence of Alexander Smith,alias, John Adams, one of the Mutineers of the ship Bounty, which was fitted out and sailed from England in 1787, for Otaheite, to procure the bread fruit tree and other trees and plants, which were to be introduced into the West Indies as articles of food.Having procured a supply, they sailed for their destined port, and while off the Friendly isles the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, the vessel seized, and the officers bound. One of the ship's boats was then lowered away, the officers and eighteen such as were not wanted put in, also a quantity of provisions and rum, a compass, and articles of clothing, blankets, &c., were allowed them, and the boat sent adrift.The mutineers, twenty-five in number, then proceeded to Otaheite, where a dissension took place and sixteen left the ship. The remaining nine, with six Otahitean men and twelve women, proceeded to Pitcairn's Island, where again domestic broils and assassinations ensued, and all of the Otaheitean men, and all the Englishmen, except two, fell. They established a code of laws bywhich they were governed. Smith, who changed his name to Adams, procured from the ship a bible and prayer-book, served as teacher or guide, enforcing the most strict discipline. His word was law. This teacher died in 1829, being the last male that landed there, the other who survived the broils and desertions, having died some time previous.The number on the island at the death of the patriarch Adams was about eighty.At the island of Rohanah, of the Friendly Islands, myself and one other were prompted by the poor success we had had to again leave the ship. This was put in force the day previous to the departure of the ship. When we went on shore with the boat's crew, we fled to the mountains.Having collected a few boughs together and built a hut, we went in quest of food, being very careful about breaking down the grass so as to form a path, lest the natives would find us. Obtained a quantity of bananas, plantains, and oranges, also a calabash of water. The next morning, quite to our delight, we saw from our mountain retreat the ship, with all canvass to the breeze, gliding swiftly from the harbor.We came down upon the beach among the natives, who treated us kindly, urging us to partake of their simple fare.There were two Europeans, one from Ireland, the other from England, who had long been residents there.We remained there seventeen days, when the brig Doll arrived there from Otaheite. She was cruising among the different groups for seals. They being in want of hands, I shipped myself as seaman. I informedmy companion of my engagement, also of their want of more, when he deridingly said, "when he went to sea he should go in a ship."The vessel was indeed one not at all prepossessing in its appearance, being old and poorly rigged, still I was willing to try my chance in her.Necessary preparations being made we set sail. Our crew was composed of ten Europeans, and six natives of the Society Islands. All things passed along very finely indeed, and in a few days we made the island of Magdalena, one of the Marquesas group. We knew the murderous cruelty of the inhabitants, still we proposed landing; and put the boats in readiness. When we came near the shore, the natives rushed in numbers to the bank, yelling and screaming most horridly, holding a human skull and other bones in their hands, which they brandished about, defying our attempts to land.Finding it useless to parley with them, we put back to the ship, and squaring our yards, stood around to the north end of Wytohoo and entered the straits that separate Wytohoo from Dominica, at a distance of from seven to twelve miles. Running through the straits we came abreast of the harbor long known as Resolution Bay. It being now near night, the captain thought proper to lay off and on during the night, and go on shore in the morning.That night we witnessed one of the most sublime spectacles I ever witnessed—what is termed a phosphorific illumination."The horizon in every direction presented a line of uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of ourvessel appeared kindling to a blaze, and as our bows occasionally dashed against a wave, the flash of the concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and illuminated every object along the whole length of the ship. By throwing any article overboard a display of light and colors took place surpassing in brilliancy and beauty the finest exhibition of fire-works."A charming effect was produced by a line coiled to some length, and then cast into the water at a distance, and also by a bucket of water dashed from the side of a vessel. The rudder, too, by its motions created splendid corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our track was marked far behind us. The smaller fish were distinctly traceable by running lines showing their rapid course, while now and then broad glimmerings, extending many yards in every direction, made known the movements of some monster of the deep."But minuteness will only weary without conveying any adequate impression of the scene. It would have been wise perhaps only to have said that it was among the most sublime nature herself ever presents."At eleven that evening a strong breeze arose from the west-southwest, which strengthened with each succeeding moment, until it ripened into a perfect gale.We made sail to get clear of the land. They were no sooner spread, than torn from the yards by the wind with a noise like thunder. Many a pale face and trembling lip were there. Before us, and under our lee were nothing but high and craggy rocks, to which we were rapidly hastening, with seemingly no chance of escape.THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.The wind rushing through the rigging so furiously, rendered all attempts to be heard fruitless.The lightning's incessant flashing, accompanied by loud thunder, rendered our situation the most appalling. Each moment brought us nearer the rocks.Our second mate, Mr. Anderson of England, lowered the larboard boat, with six men, (they were the Otahiteans, who eagerly rushed into the boat,) beside himself, which no sooner touched the water than they found a watery grave. Their shrieks were heard and moved our hearts to pity, but the hands that gladly would have rendered them assistance, were palsied. They were beyond our reach. We saw the waves sweep over them, as the wind moaned their requiem.The anchor being let go served to swing the vessel around, head to the wind, and in some degree to check her progress.This being considered a favorable moment, the captain instantly lowered away his boat with the remaining eight, (one having been lost overboard in the early part of the gale,) in safety. But we were only just in season, for a moment after the ship parted from her anchor, and rushed upon the rocks with a mighty crash.So complete was the wreck that scarce one plank was left upon another.We lay in the harbor from two o'clock, A. M. until day, keeping under the point for shelter from the blast, about a mile from where the vessel struck.
CHAPTER V.Description of the Volcano of Kilauea, at Hawaii.Every preparation having been previously made, we left the harbor shortly after sunrise. The uncommon beauty of the morning proved a true omen of the delightful weather with which we were favored during the whole of our absence. The rich coloring of Mounakea in the early sun, never called forth higher or more general admiration. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the air, the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, excited a buoyancy of spirit favorable to the accomplishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between us and the object of our journey.******For the first four miles the country was open and uneven, and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, and single trees of the bread fruit, pandanus, and candle tree. We then came to a wood, four miles in width, the outskirts of which exhibited a rich and delightful foliage. It was composed principally of the candle tree, whose whitish leaves and blossoms afforded a fine contrast to the dark green of the various parasitical plants which hung in luxuriant festoons and pendants from their very tops to the ground, forming thick and deeply shaded bowers round their trunks. The interior was far less interesting, presenting nothing but an impenetrable thicket, on both sides of the path. This wasexcessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of loose and pointed pieces of lava, which from their irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore our shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles. The high brake, ginger, &c., which border and overhung the path, were filled with the rain of the night, and added greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleasantness of the walk. An hour and a half, however, saw us safely through, and refreshing ourselves in the charming groves with which the wood was here again bordered. The whole of the way from this place to within a short distance of the volcano, is very much of one character. The path, formed of black lava, so smooth in some places as to endanger falling, and still showing the configuration of the molten stream as it had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, leads midway through a strip of open uncultivated country, from three to five miles wide, skirted on both sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered with fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of the whortleberry. The fruit of this, of the size of a small gooseberry, and of a bright yellow color, tinged on one side with red, was very abundant, and though of insipid taste, refreshing from its juice. There are no houses near the path, but the thatch of a cottage was occasionally observed peeping from the edge of the wood; and here and there the white smoke of a kindling fire curled above the thick foliage of the trees. Far on the right and west, Mounaloa and Mounakea were distinctly visible; and at an equal distance, on the left, and east, the ocean, with its horizon—from the height at which we viewed it, mingling with the sky.We dined thirteen miles from the bay, under a large candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by a party of people who had been waiting by the wayside to see the "alii nui mai Perekania mai," the great chief from Britain. About two miles farther we came to the houses erected for our lodgings the first night. Thinking it, however, too early to lie for the day, after witnessing a dance performed by a company from the neighboring settlements, we hastened on, intending to sleep at the next houses, ten miles distant; but night overtaking us before we reached them, just as darkness set in we turned aside a few rods to the ruins of two huts, the sticks only of which remaining. The natives, however, soon covered them with fern, the leaves of the Kukui, &c., a quantity of which they also spread upon the ground, before spreading the mats which were to be our beds.Our arrival and encampment produced quite a picturesque and lively scene; for the islanders, who are not fond of such forced marches as we had made during the day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, and proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations for the night.The darkness, as it gathered round us, rendered more gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty of our situation still more striking.Behind the huts, in the distance, an uplifted torch of the blazingkukuinuthere and there indistinctly revealed the figures and costume of many, spreading their couches under the bushes in the open air; the more curious of our dusky companions, both male and female, meanwhilepressing in numbers round our circle, as if anxious to "catch the manners living as they rose."A large fire of brush wood, at some distance in front, exhibited the objects of the foreground in still strongerlights and shadows. Groups of both sexes, and all ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped up from the chillness of the evening air, in their largekiheisor mantles, of white, black, green, yellow, and red.Some smoking, some throwing in, and others snatching from the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of food; some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call of a straggler just arriving; others wholly taken up with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our suppers, and all chattering with the volubility of so many magpies.By daylight the next morning we were on the road again.At nine o'clock we passed the last houses put up for our accommodation on the way; and at eleven o'clock had arrived within three miles of the object of our curiosity.For the last hour the scenery had become more interesting; our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves and clusters of trees, and fringed with a greater variety of vegetation. Here also the smoke from the volcano was first discovered, settling in light fleecy clouds to the southwest.Our resting place at this time was a delightful spot, commanding a full view of the wide extent of country over which we had traveled, and beyond and around it, the ocean, which, from the vast and almost undistinguishedextent of its horizon, seemed literally an "illimitable sea."The smooth greensward, under the shade of a majestic acacia, almost encircled by thickets of a younger growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to take our luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried but a few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object before us.The nearer we approached, the more heavy the columns of smoke appeared, and roused to intenseness our curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of this excitement, we hastened forward with rapid steps, regardless of the heat of a noonday sun, and the fatigue of a walk of thirty-six miles, already accomplished.A few minutes before twelve o'clock, we came suddenly on the brink of a precipice, one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high, covered with shrubbery and trees. Descending this by a path almost perpendicular, we crossed a plain half a mile in width, enclosed, except in the direction we were going, by the cliff behind us, and found ourselves a second time on the top of a precipice four hundred feet high, also covered with bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept off to the right and left, enclosing in a semi-circular form, a level space about a quarter of a mile broad; immediately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our search, emitting volumes of vapor and smoke; and laboring and groaning as if in inexpressible agony from the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom. We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance.Then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height, and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater.There are scenes, to which description, and even painting can do no justice, and in conveying any adequate impression of which they must ever fail. Of such, an elegant traveler rightly says, "the height, the depth, the length, the breadth, the combined aspect, may all be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will remain untouched by the emotions of admiration and sublimity which the eye-witness experiences." That which here burst on our sight was emphatically of this kind, and to behold it without singular and deep emotion, would demand a familiarity with the more terrible phenomena of nature which few have the opportunity of acquiring. Standing at an elevation of one thousand five hundred feet, we looked into a black and horrid gulf, not less than eight miles in circumference, so directly beneath us that, in appearance, we might by a single leap have plunged into its lowest depth. The hideous immensity itself, independent of the many frightful images which it embraced, almost caused an involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But when to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various unnatural and fearful noises, the muttering and sighing, the groaning and blowing, the every agonized struggling of the mighty action within—as a whole it is too horrible! And for the first moment I felt like one of my friends, who on reaching the brink, recoiled and covered his face, exclaiming, "call it weakness, or what you please, but I cannot look again."It was sufficient employment for the afternoon simply to sit and gaze on the scene, and though some ofour party strolled about, and one or two descended a short distance into the crater, the most of our number deferred all investigation until the next morning.From what I have already said, you will perceive that this volcano differs in one respect from most others of which we have accounts. The crater instead of being the truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in an upland country, near the base of the mountain Monnaloa—approached not by ascending a cone, but by descending two vast terraces; and not visible from any point at a greater distance than half a mile, a circumstance, which, no doubt, from the suddenness of the arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from the brink. It is probable that it was originally a cone, but assumed its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, from the falling in of the whole summit. Of this, the precipices we descended, which entirely encircle the crater in circumferences, of fifteen and twenty miles, give strong evidence. They have unquestionably been formed by the sinking of the mountain, whose foundations had been undermined by the devouring flames beneath. In the same manner one half of the present depth of the crater has at no very remote period been formed. About midway from the top a ledge of lava, in some places only a few feet, but in others many rods wide, extends entirely round, at least as far as an examination has been made; forming a kind of gallery—to which you can descend, in two or three places, and walk, as far as the smoke, settling at the south end, will permit. This offset bears incontestible marks of having once been the level of the fiery flood, now boilingin the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, by some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, and sunk the abyss many hundred feet to its present depth. The gulf below contains probably not less than sixty—fifty-six have been counted—smaller conical craters, many of which are in constant action. The tops and sides of two or three of these are covered with sulphur, of mingled shades of yellow and green, with this exception, the ledge and every thing below it are of a dismal black. The upper cliffs, on the northern and western sides, are perfectly perpendicular, and of a red color, everywhere exhibiting the scarred marks of former powerful ignition. Those on the eastern side are less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, of a delicate and beautiful yellow. The south end is wholly obscured by smoke, which fills that part of the crater, and spreads widely over the surrounding horizon. As the darkness of night gathered round us, new and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after fire, which the glare of mid-day had entirely concealed, began to glimmer on the eye with the first shades of evening, and as the darkness increased, appeared in such rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty lighting of the lamps of a city on the sudden approach of a gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters nearest to us were in full action, every moment casting out stones and ashes, and lava, with heavy detonations, while the irritated flames accompanying them, glared widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides of the ledge and upper cliffs, richly illuminating the volumes of smoke at the south end, and occasionally casting a bright reflection on the bosom of a passingcloud. The great seat of action, however, seemed to be at the southern and western end, where an exhibition of ever-varying fire-works was presented, surpassing in beauty and sublimity all that the ingenuity of art ever devised. Rivers of fire were seen rolling in splendid corruscation among the laboring craters, and on one side a whole lake, whose surface constantly flashed and sparkled with the agitation of contending currents.Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued it was near midnight before we gave ourselves rest, often interrupted during the night, to gaze on the sight with renewed wonder and surprise.As I laid myself down on my mat—fancying that the very ground which was my pillow shook beneath my head—the silent musings of my mind were:—"Great and marvelous are thy works, Lord, God Almighty! greatly art thou to be feared, thou King of saints!"The next morning we prepared for a descent into the crater.One of the few places where this is practicable was within a rod of the hut where we lodged. For the first four hundred feet the path was steep, and from the looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required caution in every movement. A slight touch was sufficient to detach these and send them bounding downwards hundreds of feet to the imminent danger of any one near them. The remaining distance of about the same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path having turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, which ran off in an inclined plain, until it met the ledgebefore described more than a quarter of a mile west of the place where we began the descent. Previous to our descent we had provided ourselves with long canes and poles, by which we might test the soundness of any spot before stepping on it, and immediately on reaching the ledge, we found the wisdom of the precaution. This offset is formed wholly of scoria and lava, mostly burned to a cinder and everywhere intersected by deep crevices and chasms, from many of which light smoke and vapor were emitted, and from others a scalding steam.The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation, retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice, while the hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, sufficiently assured us of the unsubstantial character of the whole mass.In some places by thrusting our stick down with force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep fissures, and holes apparently without bottom. These, however, were generally too small to appear dangerous. The width of this ledge is constantly diminishing in a greater or less degree, by the falling of large masses from its edges into the crater; and it is not improbable that in some future convulsion, the whole structure may yet be plunged into the abyss below.Leaving the sulphur banks on the western side behind us, we directed our course along the northern part to the western cliff. As we advanced these became more and more perpendicular, until they presented nothing but the bare and upright face of an immense wall,from eight to ten hundred feet high, on whose surface huge stones and rocks hung apparently so loosely as to threaten falling at the agitation of a breath. In many places a white curling vapor issued from the sides and summit of the precipice, and in two or three streams of clay-colored lava, like some waterfall extending almost from the top to the bottom, had cooled evidently at a very recent period. At almost every step, something new attracted our attention, and by stopping sometimes to look up, not without a feeling of apprehension, at the enormous masses above our heads, at others to gain by a cautious approach to the brink of the gulf, a nearer glance at the equally frightful depth below; at one time turning aside to ascertain the heat of a column of steam and at another to secure some unique or beautiful specimen, we occupied more than two hours in proceeding the same number of miles.At that distance from our entrance on the ledge we came to a spot on the western side, where it widened many hundred feet and terminated next the crater, not as in most other places, perpendicularly, but in an immense heap of broken slabs and blocks of lava, loosely piled together, as they had fallen in some convulsion of the mountain, and jutting off to the bottom in a frightful mass of ruin. Here we had been informed the descent into the depths of the crater could be most easily made, but being without a guide we were entirely at a loss what course to take, until we unexpectedly descried the gentlemen who had preceded us re-ascending. They dissuaded us most strenuously from proceeding further, but their lively representations of the difficulty and dangers of the way only strengthened our resolution togo down, and knowing that the crater had been crossed at this end, we hastened on, notwithstanding the refusal of the guide to return with us.The descent was as perilous as it had been represented, but by proceeding with great caution, testing well the safety of every step before committing our weight to it, and often stopping to select the course which seemed least hazardous, in the space of about twenty minutes, by a zigzag way, we reached the bottom without any accident of greater amount than a few scratches on the hands from the sharpness and roughness of the lava, by which we had occasionally been obliged to support ourselves. When we were about half way down we were encouraged to persevere in our undertaking, by meeting a native who had descended on the opposite side and passed over. It was only however from the renewed assurance it gave of the practicability of the attempt, for besides being greatly fatigued, he was much cut and bruised from a fall; said the bottom was "ino-ino loaka wahi O debelo!"—"excessively bad the place of the devil!"—and could be prevailed on to return with us only by the promise of a large reward.It is difficult to say whether sensations of admiration or of terror predominated, on reaching the bottom of this tremendous spot. As I looked up at the gigantic wall, which on every side rose to the very clouds, I felt oppressed to a most unpleasant degree, by a sense of confinement.Either from the influence of imagination, or from the actual effect of the immense power of a noonday sun beating directly on us, in addition to the heated andsulphureous atmosphere of the volcano itself, I for some moments experienced an agitation of spirits, and difficulty of respiration, that made me cast a look of wishful anxiety towards our little hut, which, at an elevation of near fifteen hundred feet seemed only like a bird's nest on the opposite cliff. These emotions, however, soon passed off, and we began with great spirit and activity, the enterprise before us. I can compare the general aspect of the bottom of the crater, to nothing that will give a livelier image of it to the mind than the appearance of a lake would present, if the ice with which it was covered in the winter was suddenly broken up by a heavy storm, and as suddenly frozen again, while large slabs and blocks were still toppling and dashing and heaping against each other with the motion of the waves. Just so rough and distorted was the black mass under our feet, only a hundred fold more terrific, independently of the innumerable cracks, fissures, deep chasms and holes, from which sulphureous vapor, steam and smoke were exhaled, with a degree of heat that testified to the near vicinity of fire.We had not proceeded far, before our path was intersected by a chasm at least thirty feet wide, and of greater depth than we could ascertain, at the nearest distance we dare approach. The only alternative was to return or follow its course until it terminated or became narrow enough to be crossed. We chose the latter, but soon met an equally formidable obstacle, in a current of smoke, so highly impregnated with a suffocating gas as not to allow of respiration. What a situation for a group of half a dozen men, totally unaware of the extent of peril to which they might beexposed! The lava on which we stood was in many places so hot, that we could not hold for a moment in our hands the pieces which we knocked off for specimens.On one side lay a gulf of unfathomable depth, on the other an inaccessible pile of ruins, and immediately in front an oppressive and deadly vapor. While hesitating what to do, we perceived the smoke to be swept occasionally, by an eddy of the air, in a direction opposite to that in which it most of the time settled. And watching an opportunity, when our way was thus made clear, we held our breath and ran as rapidly as the dangerous character of the path would permit, until we had gained a place beyond its ordinary course. We here unexpectedly found ourselves also delivered from the other impediment to our progress; for the chasm abruptly ran off in a direction far from that we wished to pursue. Our escape from the vapor however was that which we considered the most important: and so great was our impression of the danger to which we had been exposed from it, that when we saw our way to the opposite side open, without any special obstacle before us, we felt disposed formally to return thanks to Almighty God for our deliverance. But before this was proposed most of our number had gone forward so far as to be out of call; and for the time the external adoration of the Creator, from the midst of one of the most horrible of his works, was reluctantly waived.At an inconsiderable distance from us was one of the largest of the conical craters, whose laborious action had so greatly impressed our minds during the night; and we hastened to a nearer examination of it; so prodigiousan engine I never expect again to behold. On reaching its base, we judged it to be one hundred and fifty feet high, a huge irregularly shapen, inverted funnel of lava covered with clefts, orifices, and tunnels, from which bodies of steam escaped with deafening explosion, while pale flames, ashes, stones, and lava, were propelled with equal force and noise from its ragged and yawning mouth. The whole formed so singularly terrific an object, that in order to secure a hasty sketch of it, I permitted the other gentlemen to go a few yards nearer than I did, while I occupied myself with my pencil. One of the company with his servant ascended the cone several feet, but found the heat too great to remain longer than to detach with their sticks, a piece or two of recent lava, burning hot. So highly was our admiration excited by the scene, that we forgot the danger to which we might be exposed should any change take place in the currents of destructive gas—which exists to a greater or less degree in every part of the crater—until one of the gentlemen, after two or three intimations of the propriety of an immediate departure, warned us in a most decided tone, not only as a friend, but as a professional gentleman, of the peril of our situation, assuring us, that three inspirations of the air by which we might be surrounded, would prove fatal to every one of us. We felt the truth of the assertion, and notwithstanding the desire we had of visiting a similar cone covered with a beautiful incrustation of sulphur, at the distance from us, of a few hundred yards only, we hastily took the speediest course from so dangerous a spot. The ascent to the ledge was not less difficult and frightful than the descent had been, and for the lastfew yards was almost perpendicular. But we all succeeded in safely gaining its top, not far from the path by which we had in the morning descended the upper cliff.We reached the hut about two o'clock, nearly exhausted from fatigue, thirst and hunger, and had immediate reason to congratulate ourselves, on a most narrow escape from suffering and extreme danger, if not from death. For, on turning round, we perceived the whole chasm to be filling with thick sulphureous smoke; and within half an hour, it was so completely choked with it, that not an object below us was visible. Even where we were, in the unconfined region above, the air became so oppressive as to make us think seriously of a precipitate retreat. This continued to be the case for the greater part of the afternoon. A dead calm took place, both within and without the crater, and from the diminution of noise, and the various signs of action, the volcano itself seemed to be resting from its labors.One of the company, during a morning ramble, had gathered two large buckets of fine strawberries, which made a delightful dessert at our dinner. The mountains of Hawaii are the only parts of the island on which this delicious fruit is found. A large red raspberry is also abundant on them; but even when fully ripe, it has a rough acid taste similar to that of an unripe blackberry. The flavor of the strawberry, however, is as fine as that of the same fruit in America.Towards evening the smoke again rolled off to the south, before a fresh breeze, and every thing assumed its ordinary aspect. At this time we succeeded in getting sufficient data to calculate the height of the upper cliff;and made it nine hundred feet. If this be correct, it is judged that the height of the ledge cannot be less than six hundred feet; making the whole depth of the crater that which I have stated in the preceding pages, fifteen hundred feet. On similar grounds, the circumference of the crater at its bottom has been estimated at a distance of from five to seven miles; and at its top from eight to ten miles.Greatly to our regret we found it would be necessary to set off on our return early the next morning; all the provisions of the natives being entirely expended. We could have passed a week here with undiminished interest, and wished to remain at least one day longer to visit the sulphur banks, which abound with beautiful chrystalizations, and to make some researches on the summit. We would have been glad also to have added to the variety of specimens already collected, especially of the volcanic sponge, and capillary volcanic glass, not found on the side of the crater where we encamped; but it was impossible; and we made preparations for an early departure. Just as these were completed, in the edge of the evening, another party from the same ship, consisting of about a dozen midshipmen arrived, with whom we shared our lodgings for the night.The splendid illuminations of the preceding evening were again lighted up with the closing of the day; and after enjoying their beauty for two or three hours with renewed delight, we early sought a repose which the fatigue of the morning had rendered most desirable. The chattering of the islanders around our cabins, and the occasional sound of voices in protracted conversation among our own number, had however, scarcelyceased long enough to admit of sound sleep, when the volcano again began roaring, and laboring with redoubled activity. The confusion of noises was prodigiously great. In addition to all we had before heard, there was an angry muttering from the very bowels of the abyss, accompanied at intervals by what appeared the desperate effort of some gigantic power struggling for deliverance. These sounds were not fixed or confined to one place, but rolled from one end of the crater to the other; sometimes seeming to be immediately under us—when a terrible tremor of the ground on which we lay, took place—and then again rushing to the farthest end with incalculable velocity. The whole air was filled with tumult; and those most soundly asleep were quickly roused by it to thorough wakefulness. Lord Byron springing up in his cot exclaiming, "We shall certainly have an eruption; such power must burst through every thing!" He had barely ceased speaking, when a dense column of heavy black smoke was seen rising from the crater, directly in front of us, the subterranean struggle ceased, and immediately after flames burst from a large cone, near which we had been in the morning, and which then appeared to have been long inactive. Red hot stones, cinders, and ashes, were also propelled to a great height with immense violence; and shortly after the molten lava came boiling up, and flowed down the sides of the cone, and over the surrounding scoria, in two beautiful curved streams, glittering with indescribable brilliance.At the same time a whole lake of fire opened in a more distant part. This could not have been less than two miles in circumference, and its action was morehorribly sublime than any thing I ever imagined to exist, even in the ideal visions of unearthly things. Its surface had all the agitation of an ocean; billow after billow tossed its monstrous bosom in the air, and occasionally those from different directions burst with such violence, as in the concussion to dash the fiery spray, seemingly, forty and fifty feet high. It was at once the most splendidly beautiful, and dreadfully fearful of spectacles, and irresistibly turned the thoughts to that lake of fire, from whence we are told, the smoke of torment shall ascend for ever and ever.No work of Him who laid the foundations of the earth, and who by his almighty power still supports them, ever brought to my mind the more awful revelations of his Word with such overwhelming impression. Truly, "With God is terrible Majesty!" Let all the nations say unto God, "How terrible art thou in thy works."Under the name of Pele, this volcano was one of the most distinguished, and most feared of the former gods of Hawaii. Its terrific features, are well suited to the character and abode of an unpropitious demon; and few works in nature, would be more likely to impose thoughts of terror on the ignorant and superstitious, and from their destructive ravages lead to sacrifices of propitiation and peace. It is now rapidly losing its power over the minds of the people. Not one of the large number of our company, seemed to be at all apprehensive of it as a supernatural being.After an almost sleepless night, we early turned our faces homeward, not without many a "lingering look behind," even at the very entrance of our path. It wasprecisely six o'clock when the last of our party left the brink.Never was there a more delightful morning. The atmosphere was perfectly clear, and the air, with the thermometer at 56 degrees Fahrenheit, fine and bracing. A splendid assemblage of strong and beautifully contrasted colors glowed around us. The bed of the crater still covered with the broad shadow of the eastern banks was of jetty blackness. The reflection of the early sun, added a deeper redness to the western cliffs; those opposite were of a bright yellow, while the body of smoke rising between them, hung in a white drapery of pearly whiteness, against the deep azure of the southern sky. Mounaloa and Mounakea, in full view in the west, were richly clothed in purple; and the long line of intervening forest, the level over which we were passing, and the precipice by which it is encircled, thickly covered with trees and shrubbery, exhibited an equally bright and lively green.
Description of the Volcano of Kilauea, at Hawaii.
Every preparation having been previously made, we left the harbor shortly after sunrise. The uncommon beauty of the morning proved a true omen of the delightful weather with which we were favored during the whole of our absence. The rich coloring of Mounakea in the early sun, never called forth higher or more general admiration. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the air, the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, excited a buoyancy of spirit favorable to the accomplishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between us and the object of our journey.
For the first four miles the country was open and uneven, and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, and single trees of the bread fruit, pandanus, and candle tree. We then came to a wood, four miles in width, the outskirts of which exhibited a rich and delightful foliage. It was composed principally of the candle tree, whose whitish leaves and blossoms afforded a fine contrast to the dark green of the various parasitical plants which hung in luxuriant festoons and pendants from their very tops to the ground, forming thick and deeply shaded bowers round their trunks. The interior was far less interesting, presenting nothing but an impenetrable thicket, on both sides of the path. This wasexcessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of loose and pointed pieces of lava, which from their irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore our shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles. The high brake, ginger, &c., which border and overhung the path, were filled with the rain of the night, and added greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleasantness of the walk. An hour and a half, however, saw us safely through, and refreshing ourselves in the charming groves with which the wood was here again bordered. The whole of the way from this place to within a short distance of the volcano, is very much of one character. The path, formed of black lava, so smooth in some places as to endanger falling, and still showing the configuration of the molten stream as it had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, leads midway through a strip of open uncultivated country, from three to five miles wide, skirted on both sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered with fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of the whortleberry. The fruit of this, of the size of a small gooseberry, and of a bright yellow color, tinged on one side with red, was very abundant, and though of insipid taste, refreshing from its juice. There are no houses near the path, but the thatch of a cottage was occasionally observed peeping from the edge of the wood; and here and there the white smoke of a kindling fire curled above the thick foliage of the trees. Far on the right and west, Mounaloa and Mounakea were distinctly visible; and at an equal distance, on the left, and east, the ocean, with its horizon—from the height at which we viewed it, mingling with the sky.
We dined thirteen miles from the bay, under a large candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by a party of people who had been waiting by the wayside to see the "alii nui mai Perekania mai," the great chief from Britain. About two miles farther we came to the houses erected for our lodgings the first night. Thinking it, however, too early to lie for the day, after witnessing a dance performed by a company from the neighboring settlements, we hastened on, intending to sleep at the next houses, ten miles distant; but night overtaking us before we reached them, just as darkness set in we turned aside a few rods to the ruins of two huts, the sticks only of which remaining. The natives, however, soon covered them with fern, the leaves of the Kukui, &c., a quantity of which they also spread upon the ground, before spreading the mats which were to be our beds.
Our arrival and encampment produced quite a picturesque and lively scene; for the islanders, who are not fond of such forced marches as we had made during the day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, and proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations for the night.
The darkness, as it gathered round us, rendered more gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty of our situation still more striking.
Behind the huts, in the distance, an uplifted torch of the blazingkukuinuthere and there indistinctly revealed the figures and costume of many, spreading their couches under the bushes in the open air; the more curious of our dusky companions, both male and female, meanwhilepressing in numbers round our circle, as if anxious to "catch the manners living as they rose."
A large fire of brush wood, at some distance in front, exhibited the objects of the foreground in still strongerlights and shadows. Groups of both sexes, and all ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped up from the chillness of the evening air, in their largekiheisor mantles, of white, black, green, yellow, and red.
Some smoking, some throwing in, and others snatching from the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of food; some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call of a straggler just arriving; others wholly taken up with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our suppers, and all chattering with the volubility of so many magpies.
By daylight the next morning we were on the road again.
At nine o'clock we passed the last houses put up for our accommodation on the way; and at eleven o'clock had arrived within three miles of the object of our curiosity.
For the last hour the scenery had become more interesting; our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves and clusters of trees, and fringed with a greater variety of vegetation. Here also the smoke from the volcano was first discovered, settling in light fleecy clouds to the southwest.
Our resting place at this time was a delightful spot, commanding a full view of the wide extent of country over which we had traveled, and beyond and around it, the ocean, which, from the vast and almost undistinguishedextent of its horizon, seemed literally an "illimitable sea."
The smooth greensward, under the shade of a majestic acacia, almost encircled by thickets of a younger growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to take our luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried but a few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object before us.
The nearer we approached, the more heavy the columns of smoke appeared, and roused to intenseness our curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of this excitement, we hastened forward with rapid steps, regardless of the heat of a noonday sun, and the fatigue of a walk of thirty-six miles, already accomplished.
A few minutes before twelve o'clock, we came suddenly on the brink of a precipice, one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high, covered with shrubbery and trees. Descending this by a path almost perpendicular, we crossed a plain half a mile in width, enclosed, except in the direction we were going, by the cliff behind us, and found ourselves a second time on the top of a precipice four hundred feet high, also covered with bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept off to the right and left, enclosing in a semi-circular form, a level space about a quarter of a mile broad; immediately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our search, emitting volumes of vapor and smoke; and laboring and groaning as if in inexpressible agony from the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom. We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance.Then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height, and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater.
There are scenes, to which description, and even painting can do no justice, and in conveying any adequate impression of which they must ever fail. Of such, an elegant traveler rightly says, "the height, the depth, the length, the breadth, the combined aspect, may all be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will remain untouched by the emotions of admiration and sublimity which the eye-witness experiences." That which here burst on our sight was emphatically of this kind, and to behold it without singular and deep emotion, would demand a familiarity with the more terrible phenomena of nature which few have the opportunity of acquiring. Standing at an elevation of one thousand five hundred feet, we looked into a black and horrid gulf, not less than eight miles in circumference, so directly beneath us that, in appearance, we might by a single leap have plunged into its lowest depth. The hideous immensity itself, independent of the many frightful images which it embraced, almost caused an involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But when to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various unnatural and fearful noises, the muttering and sighing, the groaning and blowing, the every agonized struggling of the mighty action within—as a whole it is too horrible! And for the first moment I felt like one of my friends, who on reaching the brink, recoiled and covered his face, exclaiming, "call it weakness, or what you please, but I cannot look again."
It was sufficient employment for the afternoon simply to sit and gaze on the scene, and though some ofour party strolled about, and one or two descended a short distance into the crater, the most of our number deferred all investigation until the next morning.
From what I have already said, you will perceive that this volcano differs in one respect from most others of which we have accounts. The crater instead of being the truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in an upland country, near the base of the mountain Monnaloa—approached not by ascending a cone, but by descending two vast terraces; and not visible from any point at a greater distance than half a mile, a circumstance, which, no doubt, from the suddenness of the arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from the brink. It is probable that it was originally a cone, but assumed its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, from the falling in of the whole summit. Of this, the precipices we descended, which entirely encircle the crater in circumferences, of fifteen and twenty miles, give strong evidence. They have unquestionably been formed by the sinking of the mountain, whose foundations had been undermined by the devouring flames beneath. In the same manner one half of the present depth of the crater has at no very remote period been formed. About midway from the top a ledge of lava, in some places only a few feet, but in others many rods wide, extends entirely round, at least as far as an examination has been made; forming a kind of gallery—to which you can descend, in two or three places, and walk, as far as the smoke, settling at the south end, will permit. This offset bears incontestible marks of having once been the level of the fiery flood, now boilingin the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, by some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, and sunk the abyss many hundred feet to its present depth. The gulf below contains probably not less than sixty—fifty-six have been counted—smaller conical craters, many of which are in constant action. The tops and sides of two or three of these are covered with sulphur, of mingled shades of yellow and green, with this exception, the ledge and every thing below it are of a dismal black. The upper cliffs, on the northern and western sides, are perfectly perpendicular, and of a red color, everywhere exhibiting the scarred marks of former powerful ignition. Those on the eastern side are less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, of a delicate and beautiful yellow. The south end is wholly obscured by smoke, which fills that part of the crater, and spreads widely over the surrounding horizon. As the darkness of night gathered round us, new and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after fire, which the glare of mid-day had entirely concealed, began to glimmer on the eye with the first shades of evening, and as the darkness increased, appeared in such rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty lighting of the lamps of a city on the sudden approach of a gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters nearest to us were in full action, every moment casting out stones and ashes, and lava, with heavy detonations, while the irritated flames accompanying them, glared widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides of the ledge and upper cliffs, richly illuminating the volumes of smoke at the south end, and occasionally casting a bright reflection on the bosom of a passingcloud. The great seat of action, however, seemed to be at the southern and western end, where an exhibition of ever-varying fire-works was presented, surpassing in beauty and sublimity all that the ingenuity of art ever devised. Rivers of fire were seen rolling in splendid corruscation among the laboring craters, and on one side a whole lake, whose surface constantly flashed and sparkled with the agitation of contending currents.
Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued it was near midnight before we gave ourselves rest, often interrupted during the night, to gaze on the sight with renewed wonder and surprise.
As I laid myself down on my mat—fancying that the very ground which was my pillow shook beneath my head—the silent musings of my mind were:—"Great and marvelous are thy works, Lord, God Almighty! greatly art thou to be feared, thou King of saints!"
The next morning we prepared for a descent into the crater.
One of the few places where this is practicable was within a rod of the hut where we lodged. For the first four hundred feet the path was steep, and from the looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required caution in every movement. A slight touch was sufficient to detach these and send them bounding downwards hundreds of feet to the imminent danger of any one near them. The remaining distance of about the same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path having turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, which ran off in an inclined plain, until it met the ledgebefore described more than a quarter of a mile west of the place where we began the descent. Previous to our descent we had provided ourselves with long canes and poles, by which we might test the soundness of any spot before stepping on it, and immediately on reaching the ledge, we found the wisdom of the precaution. This offset is formed wholly of scoria and lava, mostly burned to a cinder and everywhere intersected by deep crevices and chasms, from many of which light smoke and vapor were emitted, and from others a scalding steam.
The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation, retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice, while the hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, sufficiently assured us of the unsubstantial character of the whole mass.
In some places by thrusting our stick down with force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep fissures, and holes apparently without bottom. These, however, were generally too small to appear dangerous. The width of this ledge is constantly diminishing in a greater or less degree, by the falling of large masses from its edges into the crater; and it is not improbable that in some future convulsion, the whole structure may yet be plunged into the abyss below.
Leaving the sulphur banks on the western side behind us, we directed our course along the northern part to the western cliff. As we advanced these became more and more perpendicular, until they presented nothing but the bare and upright face of an immense wall,from eight to ten hundred feet high, on whose surface huge stones and rocks hung apparently so loosely as to threaten falling at the agitation of a breath. In many places a white curling vapor issued from the sides and summit of the precipice, and in two or three streams of clay-colored lava, like some waterfall extending almost from the top to the bottom, had cooled evidently at a very recent period. At almost every step, something new attracted our attention, and by stopping sometimes to look up, not without a feeling of apprehension, at the enormous masses above our heads, at others to gain by a cautious approach to the brink of the gulf, a nearer glance at the equally frightful depth below; at one time turning aside to ascertain the heat of a column of steam and at another to secure some unique or beautiful specimen, we occupied more than two hours in proceeding the same number of miles.
At that distance from our entrance on the ledge we came to a spot on the western side, where it widened many hundred feet and terminated next the crater, not as in most other places, perpendicularly, but in an immense heap of broken slabs and blocks of lava, loosely piled together, as they had fallen in some convulsion of the mountain, and jutting off to the bottom in a frightful mass of ruin. Here we had been informed the descent into the depths of the crater could be most easily made, but being without a guide we were entirely at a loss what course to take, until we unexpectedly descried the gentlemen who had preceded us re-ascending. They dissuaded us most strenuously from proceeding further, but their lively representations of the difficulty and dangers of the way only strengthened our resolution togo down, and knowing that the crater had been crossed at this end, we hastened on, notwithstanding the refusal of the guide to return with us.
The descent was as perilous as it had been represented, but by proceeding with great caution, testing well the safety of every step before committing our weight to it, and often stopping to select the course which seemed least hazardous, in the space of about twenty minutes, by a zigzag way, we reached the bottom without any accident of greater amount than a few scratches on the hands from the sharpness and roughness of the lava, by which we had occasionally been obliged to support ourselves. When we were about half way down we were encouraged to persevere in our undertaking, by meeting a native who had descended on the opposite side and passed over. It was only however from the renewed assurance it gave of the practicability of the attempt, for besides being greatly fatigued, he was much cut and bruised from a fall; said the bottom was "ino-ino loaka wahi O debelo!"—"excessively bad the place of the devil!"—and could be prevailed on to return with us only by the promise of a large reward.
It is difficult to say whether sensations of admiration or of terror predominated, on reaching the bottom of this tremendous spot. As I looked up at the gigantic wall, which on every side rose to the very clouds, I felt oppressed to a most unpleasant degree, by a sense of confinement.
Either from the influence of imagination, or from the actual effect of the immense power of a noonday sun beating directly on us, in addition to the heated andsulphureous atmosphere of the volcano itself, I for some moments experienced an agitation of spirits, and difficulty of respiration, that made me cast a look of wishful anxiety towards our little hut, which, at an elevation of near fifteen hundred feet seemed only like a bird's nest on the opposite cliff. These emotions, however, soon passed off, and we began with great spirit and activity, the enterprise before us. I can compare the general aspect of the bottom of the crater, to nothing that will give a livelier image of it to the mind than the appearance of a lake would present, if the ice with which it was covered in the winter was suddenly broken up by a heavy storm, and as suddenly frozen again, while large slabs and blocks were still toppling and dashing and heaping against each other with the motion of the waves. Just so rough and distorted was the black mass under our feet, only a hundred fold more terrific, independently of the innumerable cracks, fissures, deep chasms and holes, from which sulphureous vapor, steam and smoke were exhaled, with a degree of heat that testified to the near vicinity of fire.
We had not proceeded far, before our path was intersected by a chasm at least thirty feet wide, and of greater depth than we could ascertain, at the nearest distance we dare approach. The only alternative was to return or follow its course until it terminated or became narrow enough to be crossed. We chose the latter, but soon met an equally formidable obstacle, in a current of smoke, so highly impregnated with a suffocating gas as not to allow of respiration. What a situation for a group of half a dozen men, totally unaware of the extent of peril to which they might beexposed! The lava on which we stood was in many places so hot, that we could not hold for a moment in our hands the pieces which we knocked off for specimens.
On one side lay a gulf of unfathomable depth, on the other an inaccessible pile of ruins, and immediately in front an oppressive and deadly vapor. While hesitating what to do, we perceived the smoke to be swept occasionally, by an eddy of the air, in a direction opposite to that in which it most of the time settled. And watching an opportunity, when our way was thus made clear, we held our breath and ran as rapidly as the dangerous character of the path would permit, until we had gained a place beyond its ordinary course. We here unexpectedly found ourselves also delivered from the other impediment to our progress; for the chasm abruptly ran off in a direction far from that we wished to pursue. Our escape from the vapor however was that which we considered the most important: and so great was our impression of the danger to which we had been exposed from it, that when we saw our way to the opposite side open, without any special obstacle before us, we felt disposed formally to return thanks to Almighty God for our deliverance. But before this was proposed most of our number had gone forward so far as to be out of call; and for the time the external adoration of the Creator, from the midst of one of the most horrible of his works, was reluctantly waived.
At an inconsiderable distance from us was one of the largest of the conical craters, whose laborious action had so greatly impressed our minds during the night; and we hastened to a nearer examination of it; so prodigiousan engine I never expect again to behold. On reaching its base, we judged it to be one hundred and fifty feet high, a huge irregularly shapen, inverted funnel of lava covered with clefts, orifices, and tunnels, from which bodies of steam escaped with deafening explosion, while pale flames, ashes, stones, and lava, were propelled with equal force and noise from its ragged and yawning mouth. The whole formed so singularly terrific an object, that in order to secure a hasty sketch of it, I permitted the other gentlemen to go a few yards nearer than I did, while I occupied myself with my pencil. One of the company with his servant ascended the cone several feet, but found the heat too great to remain longer than to detach with their sticks, a piece or two of recent lava, burning hot. So highly was our admiration excited by the scene, that we forgot the danger to which we might be exposed should any change take place in the currents of destructive gas—which exists to a greater or less degree in every part of the crater—until one of the gentlemen, after two or three intimations of the propriety of an immediate departure, warned us in a most decided tone, not only as a friend, but as a professional gentleman, of the peril of our situation, assuring us, that three inspirations of the air by which we might be surrounded, would prove fatal to every one of us. We felt the truth of the assertion, and notwithstanding the desire we had of visiting a similar cone covered with a beautiful incrustation of sulphur, at the distance from us, of a few hundred yards only, we hastily took the speediest course from so dangerous a spot. The ascent to the ledge was not less difficult and frightful than the descent had been, and for the lastfew yards was almost perpendicular. But we all succeeded in safely gaining its top, not far from the path by which we had in the morning descended the upper cliff.
We reached the hut about two o'clock, nearly exhausted from fatigue, thirst and hunger, and had immediate reason to congratulate ourselves, on a most narrow escape from suffering and extreme danger, if not from death. For, on turning round, we perceived the whole chasm to be filling with thick sulphureous smoke; and within half an hour, it was so completely choked with it, that not an object below us was visible. Even where we were, in the unconfined region above, the air became so oppressive as to make us think seriously of a precipitate retreat. This continued to be the case for the greater part of the afternoon. A dead calm took place, both within and without the crater, and from the diminution of noise, and the various signs of action, the volcano itself seemed to be resting from its labors.
One of the company, during a morning ramble, had gathered two large buckets of fine strawberries, which made a delightful dessert at our dinner. The mountains of Hawaii are the only parts of the island on which this delicious fruit is found. A large red raspberry is also abundant on them; but even when fully ripe, it has a rough acid taste similar to that of an unripe blackberry. The flavor of the strawberry, however, is as fine as that of the same fruit in America.
Towards evening the smoke again rolled off to the south, before a fresh breeze, and every thing assumed its ordinary aspect. At this time we succeeded in getting sufficient data to calculate the height of the upper cliff;and made it nine hundred feet. If this be correct, it is judged that the height of the ledge cannot be less than six hundred feet; making the whole depth of the crater that which I have stated in the preceding pages, fifteen hundred feet. On similar grounds, the circumference of the crater at its bottom has been estimated at a distance of from five to seven miles; and at its top from eight to ten miles.
Greatly to our regret we found it would be necessary to set off on our return early the next morning; all the provisions of the natives being entirely expended. We could have passed a week here with undiminished interest, and wished to remain at least one day longer to visit the sulphur banks, which abound with beautiful chrystalizations, and to make some researches on the summit. We would have been glad also to have added to the variety of specimens already collected, especially of the volcanic sponge, and capillary volcanic glass, not found on the side of the crater where we encamped; but it was impossible; and we made preparations for an early departure. Just as these were completed, in the edge of the evening, another party from the same ship, consisting of about a dozen midshipmen arrived, with whom we shared our lodgings for the night.
The splendid illuminations of the preceding evening were again lighted up with the closing of the day; and after enjoying their beauty for two or three hours with renewed delight, we early sought a repose which the fatigue of the morning had rendered most desirable. The chattering of the islanders around our cabins, and the occasional sound of voices in protracted conversation among our own number, had however, scarcelyceased long enough to admit of sound sleep, when the volcano again began roaring, and laboring with redoubled activity. The confusion of noises was prodigiously great. In addition to all we had before heard, there was an angry muttering from the very bowels of the abyss, accompanied at intervals by what appeared the desperate effort of some gigantic power struggling for deliverance. These sounds were not fixed or confined to one place, but rolled from one end of the crater to the other; sometimes seeming to be immediately under us—when a terrible tremor of the ground on which we lay, took place—and then again rushing to the farthest end with incalculable velocity. The whole air was filled with tumult; and those most soundly asleep were quickly roused by it to thorough wakefulness. Lord Byron springing up in his cot exclaiming, "We shall certainly have an eruption; such power must burst through every thing!" He had barely ceased speaking, when a dense column of heavy black smoke was seen rising from the crater, directly in front of us, the subterranean struggle ceased, and immediately after flames burst from a large cone, near which we had been in the morning, and which then appeared to have been long inactive. Red hot stones, cinders, and ashes, were also propelled to a great height with immense violence; and shortly after the molten lava came boiling up, and flowed down the sides of the cone, and over the surrounding scoria, in two beautiful curved streams, glittering with indescribable brilliance.
At the same time a whole lake of fire opened in a more distant part. This could not have been less than two miles in circumference, and its action was morehorribly sublime than any thing I ever imagined to exist, even in the ideal visions of unearthly things. Its surface had all the agitation of an ocean; billow after billow tossed its monstrous bosom in the air, and occasionally those from different directions burst with such violence, as in the concussion to dash the fiery spray, seemingly, forty and fifty feet high. It was at once the most splendidly beautiful, and dreadfully fearful of spectacles, and irresistibly turned the thoughts to that lake of fire, from whence we are told, the smoke of torment shall ascend for ever and ever.
No work of Him who laid the foundations of the earth, and who by his almighty power still supports them, ever brought to my mind the more awful revelations of his Word with such overwhelming impression. Truly, "With God is terrible Majesty!" Let all the nations say unto God, "How terrible art thou in thy works."
Under the name of Pele, this volcano was one of the most distinguished, and most feared of the former gods of Hawaii. Its terrific features, are well suited to the character and abode of an unpropitious demon; and few works in nature, would be more likely to impose thoughts of terror on the ignorant and superstitious, and from their destructive ravages lead to sacrifices of propitiation and peace. It is now rapidly losing its power over the minds of the people. Not one of the large number of our company, seemed to be at all apprehensive of it as a supernatural being.
After an almost sleepless night, we early turned our faces homeward, not without many a "lingering look behind," even at the very entrance of our path. It wasprecisely six o'clock when the last of our party left the brink.
Never was there a more delightful morning. The atmosphere was perfectly clear, and the air, with the thermometer at 56 degrees Fahrenheit, fine and bracing. A splendid assemblage of strong and beautifully contrasted colors glowed around us. The bed of the crater still covered with the broad shadow of the eastern banks was of jetty blackness. The reflection of the early sun, added a deeper redness to the western cliffs; those opposite were of a bright yellow, while the body of smoke rising between them, hung in a white drapery of pearly whiteness, against the deep azure of the southern sky. Mounaloa and Mounakea, in full view in the west, were richly clothed in purple; and the long line of intervening forest, the level over which we were passing, and the precipice by which it is encircled, thickly covered with trees and shrubbery, exhibited an equally bright and lively green.
CHAPTER VI.Sail for the "Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to anchor at Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. Reach the human habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, who takes us to St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Governor. Thrown into a Calaboose. Released by the Captain. Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the Galapagos. Scenes at that group. Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society Islands. Run upon the Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to dive for it. Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin and Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. Touch at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig Doll. Arrive at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phosphoretic scene. A heavy storm. Seven men lost. Flee to the boats. The ship runs upon the rocks.On our return from the volcano, we took on wood, water, and other necessaries for the voyage, and stood for the "Off shore ground," or the Coast of Peru, where we cruised two months with the poorest luck. Sick at heart, we put into Payta, one of the ports of Peru.The poor success which had attended us, caused the greatest dissatisfaction among the crew, yet none attributed it to the officers of the ship. Myself and two others concluded to try our luck in another way; together we formed a plan to leave the ship, secrete ourselves in the woods until her departure, we would then return to the shore, and see what chance would favor us with.When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we took as much salt beef, bread, and water, as we could carry without detection, and started for the woods, which lay but a short distance from the shore; they were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an immense sand plain or desert, without bush or shrub of any kind. The light drifting sand soon obliterated all traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to reach the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost sight of the woods: to retrace our steps was now utterly impossible—our footprints were no longer visible—we now realized the true character of our situation—parched with thirst—worn with fatigue—amidst an ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream appeared to cheer the lonely wanderer. We sat ourselves sat down upon the burning sand, beneath a torrid sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. The saltness of the meat greatly increased our thirst; we at length fell in with our own footprints, nearly filled with sand. We sat down in despair; the sun having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, which we followed, until it sank beneath the horizon; night came, and found us still hungry and shelterless. Having eaten our last morsel, and drank our last drop of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we slept but very little. We spread our flannel shirts upon the sand, and when they were saturated with dew, (the dews of the country are very heavy, and supply the deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would wring them, and suck the moisture; this being oftenrepeated, alleviated our thirst somewhat. No mind can form any description, or form to itself any definite idea of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our steps. With joy we welcomed the approach of morning, hoping that ere another day should pass, we should be able to find some means of rescue from our horrible situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed with the heat of the sun upon the head; and our tongues were so swollen as to render our mouths hardly able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. Driven to the last extremity, we resorted to the use of our own urine, for the alleviation of our thirst; this was repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we started again: after wandering a long time, we fell in with the tracks of a horse or mule. So excessive was our joy at this discovery, that we almost forgot our fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy however, was soon at an end. for the tracks were obliterated, and we were as bad off as before, and worse even; for having seen the light, the darkness was still deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for some time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our wretchedness. With the closest scrutiny we followed the tracks; about midnight, (as near as we could judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried "land ahead," much to our joy. On we passed, and found it to be low shrubbery, about three feet high. Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so rejoiced were we to find any living thing.Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the greatest avidity. As we went on, the path increased in size. Soon we heard the loud barking of a dog; never before was such a welcome so well received.This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we were near habitations of some kind, little caring what. But a short time elapsed before we came upon a house, evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who cried lustily in Spanish, "Who is there? what do you want?" Fortunately for us, one of our number understood the language sufficiently well to make our wants known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his house was immediately opened, and we were welcome to such as he had, viz: dried beef and milk: this, to the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the choicest kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was the danger of our eating too much: this, reason strongly pointed out to us, but appetite got the ascendency, and before we were aware of it we were in as great danger from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue. Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed assistance. His repeated kindnesses induced us to place unlimited confidence in him; we told him of our deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He cunningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, to take a ride to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen miles from Payta. We mounted the asses and proceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were given up to the governor as deserters, and confined. The Spaniard received a reward for delivering us up to the proper authorities. This we could not approve,though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his country. The next morning we were fitted out for Payta, guarded by six Spanish soldiers, all on asses. Our route lay along the coast, and was indeed very pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suffering on the plain, we hardly realized that we were prisoners strongly guarded, so merrily we passed along. The soldiers were themselves very joyful.On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison for safe keeping. Our captain was then notified of our apprehension, and came to see us, and asked us if we were willing to go to our duty like faithful men. That we assured him we would most certainly do. Manifesting much indifference he turned away, saying he would see what the charges were, and think about releasing us. The prison into which we were thrown was of the most filthy kind; my mind recoils with horror at the thought of it. We passed the night without closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of enormous size were jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, consisting of jerk beef, brown bread, and cold water. So loathsome was the place that we would almost have rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expectation for the re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or at least hoping he would bring a release. At length he came, having paid twenty-five dollars for us. We went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, as we thought, dearly as deserters.I propose here giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of Peru, but owing to the insufficient timeallotted common sailors for getting any definite idea of the countries which they may visit, I shall be obliged to couple the statements of others with my own observation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square miles in area. The Andes range of mountains extend through this country, the highest point of which is 22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba. The celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation exceeding 18,000 feet. In the eastern Andes remains of mining excavations are found at an elevation of 16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The entry to the gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is close to the region of eternal snow. Intersecting the country in different directions are other ranges of mountains, which do not properly belong to the Andes; these are of various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru proper, which is merely a narrow strip, and also of the various chains of mountains which contain between them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic streams, this country contains immense plains, or pampas, as they are called by the Spanish, extending from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese frontier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in equal breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters through the centre of this continental steppe; and these plains are so abundantly watered, that they are everywhere fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests. The most noted of these plains contains more than 60,000 square miles; and is capable of supporting 5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the "Steppe of the Holy Sacrament."The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this country, among the Andes, in a number of head streams. Those streams which empty into the Pacific, flowing from the western side of the Andes, are of but little importance, being quite small in size. The climate of the country is variable; that of the Coast or Low Peru, is dry and temperate; that of the Sierras mild, that of the Andes piercingly cold; and that of the Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, if we can judge from the long life of its inhabitants. Persons are often found living at the age of 120, and sometimes reach the extreme age of 150 years. A Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of Caxamarea, aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, leaving 800 lineal descendants. But such extreme age is by no means common to the whole country. The climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The warmth and extreme humidity render them almost uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes on the rivers rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to the almost insuperable barriers to communication with the coast, agriculture is generally speaking in a wretched state.Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the Montana Real, and on the banks of the Maranon. Flax is common, but the Indians leave the stems to perish, and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some districts a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality is not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively strong, and there is cinnamon stronger than that ofCeylon, though not so valuable for use. A great variety of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, Estalla enumerates the cedar, the olive, the wild orange, the incorruptiblealgorob, the palm, the willow, and many other trees. On the coast, and western slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pineapple, tumeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. No less than twenty-four species of pepper are raised in Peru. Tobacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the Andes. The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes are the different species ofcinchonas, or the salutary Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in metalic wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and of silver ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, and lead ore occur, frequently intermixed with white silver ore, and virgin silver, in threads. In many parts are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold is also obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the rivers. Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing to their being inundated by water, which has continued to gain on them so as to completely choke them.The principal silver mines were discovered in 1630, by an Indian shepherd, and though very badly wrought, they annually furnish near $2,500,000. These mines are usually called Pareo, and Cerro de Bombon. Humbolt calculates the produce of gold and silver at $6,000,000 annually. To this sum must be added the fraudulent exportation of silver, or what is denominated unregistered produce, on which no duty has been paid—this is estimated at $940,000.Mercury is found is abundance in Peru, which is not the case in any other part of Spanish America. The other minerals are numerous. There are many obstacles, however, to successful mining in Peru. One great difficulty is the ignorance of the miners in the science of amalgamation. Another is the want of capital; the operator being in most cases, in necessitous circumstances, is obliged to borrow money on very exorbitant interest to enable him to commence his works, and to sell the produce of his mines at a great sacrifice, in order to carry them on. The labor of the mines is principally performed by the Indians, as they only are able to endure the fatigue and unwholesomeness of the employment.The commerce of Peru consists for the most part in the interchange of the precious metals for foreign products, and manufactures; of which considerable quantities are imported. There is a great want of good roads and bridges in Peru; and in the little intercourse between the seaports and the interior of the country, almost every article of trade is carried on the backs of mules and lamas. The ancient Peruvians were partially civilized; they constructed numerous and excellent roads, and also built stone palaces of enormous size; were skilled in making vessels of gold and silver, and cultivated the land with much care.At the time of the Spanish conquest, Peru comprised a territory of much greater dimensions, than the modern state of the same name. Its kings were a dynasty of princes, called Incas; they were supposed to be descended from the sun, and were held sacred and adored by the people. At the time Pizarro took possession ofthis country, the reigning Incas were put to death, and the dominion of the Spanish sovereign established. This occurred forty years after the discovery of America.Peru with the other American provinces of Spain was long governed by Viceroys, appointed by the kings of that country; but in the year 1821, the people established a government of their own, and with the assistance of the Colombians achieved their independence in 1824, by the defeat of the last Spanish army at Ayachuco.In the year 1836, Peru was divided into the states of North Peru, and South Peru, which with Bolivia, were formed in the Peru-Bolivian confederation, under a chief magistrate styled the Supreme Protector. Three years afterwards, the army of the confederation was defeated by the Chilians, at Uraguay, and the Republic was dissolved.The Peruvians like the other people of South America, are composed of various races; the most numerous being the Creoles of European descent, and the Indians. There are many tribes of the Indians; they are much debased, and seldom cheerful. The Carapachas are exceedingly beautiful, and are said even to rival the Circassians; but their speech is very offensive, resembling the barking of dogs, owing to the guttural sounds. The women of some tribes are warlike. The Omagna tribe flatten the head, like some of the North American Indians. The Indians occupy the same place in society as in Mexico. They are idle, filthy, superstitious, and suspicious. Their dress and habitations are mean and poor; their capacities are very limited, and they havelittle variety of character. They are governed by native chiefs or caciques.The gentlemen of Peru imitate the English fashion of dress, and the ladies also, except in a peculiar walking dress, composed of a close petticoat of satin, &c., with a short cloak of silk drawn around the waist, and over the breast and head, half concealing the face. This dress is peculiar to Lima; the petticoat is elastic, and sets close enough to reveal the form. The hood, or manto, is probably a Moorish remnant. The dwellings of the Indians are mere huts, and generally architecture is in a much lower state than in Mexico. The roofs are flat, and the walls are often of wattled cane, plastered. The languages are the Spanish, and those of the Indians. The food does not essentially differ from that in the other South American States; and tobacco is very extensively used. There is little veal or lamb, and many sweetmeats are consumed. A fermented liquor, calledchichais made of maize, and used to considerable extent. The diseases are not peculiar. To travel in Peru, is a severe hardship and privation; the mule is much used. This animal is invaluable from its cautious instinct in passing the defiles or sides of the mountains, where a misstep would cast them to a measureless distance below. In many places where they cannot step, they protrude their feet, and slide downwards, directing their course with the utmost sagacity. It is not safe for the rider to assume any guidance over them, when he is riding with one leg over a precipice, while the other rubs against the side of the mountain.The hospitality of the Peruvians has no limits, and like the others of European descent in South America,they are distinguished for their paternal and filial virtues. The Creole ladies are good mothers, and wives, and almost every family is a happy circle. Dancing, music, tertulias, bull-fights, and cock-fighting are the common amusements. The negro slaves receive kind treatment, and are instructed in the christian religion. It is common to see the white children thus instructing those of a household. Education is little attended to, but more than under the old government. The ruling religion is the Roman Catholic.There is no country whose history is more interesting than Peru. Leaving Peru we stood for the Gallapagos, which lie off the coast about 200 miles, and form a considerable group intersected by the equator; though many of them are small, and covered with forests. Turtle are found here in great abundance, and of enormous size. Dodging about for a few days, we took three small whale; this place is famous as the resort of the sperm whale in the time of its having its young, being perfectly adapted to it. Soon as the young is born, it mounts the fin of its mother, and rides safely away. After the oil was tried, and stowed, the ship cleaned, &c., we put two boats in readiness, and rowed away for the shore in quest of turtle, or turpin, (a species of turtle;) we landed on a beautiful, low, sandy beach, a short distance from the shore; high craggy cliffs arose destitute of almost all verdure save the prickly pear bush, which grows to about the size of the American quince bush; the fruit is of a bright red, is covered with sharp, piercing prickles like the gooseberry: much difficulty arises in removing them; the fruit is most delicious; the trees and leaves are also coveredwith the same sharp hard prickles. We ascended the cliff, and wandered around an hour or two, and found nothing, save a few guana, an animal of the lizard appearance, though much larger. Many times they are found four or five feet long. The flesh is very tender, sweet and delicate, and is of great note among the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, as a fancy dish. Fell in with a large turpin, the first one any of us ever saw; when we came up with him, he retreated within his shell; we turned him over upon his back, to see his agility in turning himself back; he ran out his long neck, which was not less than two feet and a half long, and with his short legs labored most assiduously; he at length accomplished his object; this done, we laid hold of his legs, which were not more than six inches long, and started for the boat; when we came to a steep point in the path, we would place him upon the edge of his shell, and set him rolling,—many times a long way. After toiling a long time, we reached the boat. Soon others, who had gone in a different way, returned richly laden; they found one so very large, they were unable to bring it until divested of its shell. About thirty were taken during the few days we remained at this island. Getting ready we proceeded to sea, ran close to the rock of Dundas. This is a monumental rock of black granite, rearing its head eighty or an hundred feet above the water. The water around it is about sixty fathoms deep; the currents are such, that it is utterly impossible for ships to float or be driven against it; the sides are so bold that it cannot be ascended; boobys and other birds are always perched upon the top. The wind being light, we lowered ourboat and set lines for fishing; divided the seven lines between two boats, and in a couple of hours took about 400 large red fish, called by the seamen snappers; as fast as the lines could be set the fish were caught. We salted the principal part of them; we left the place and proceeded on our way, the wind and weather was most beautiful. Smoothly we glided along at the rate of four or five knots an hour, bound for the Society Islands. Fell in with a large number of whale going north; lowered away the boats; took seven, and had them alongside at dark: the ship was hove too, and the next morning the oil was tried; had 105 barrels.Passing Otaheite, we came abreast of the harbor of Emer; the high points of land on both sides becalmed us so we were obliged to lower our boats and take the ship in tow; we brought her into the harbor, and hove her anchor to keep her off the coral reef, which lay close under our lee. Before the sails could be furled, the ship was covered with females who had swam to her. Whether the use of the boats is forbidden them I know not, yet I presume such is the fact, with regard to this as well as to other islands; at any rate, during our stay I did not see any of them in a boat. Here we procured wood and water, and had liberty on shore; during our stay two men left the ship. Having once myself suffered much as a deserter, I chose to stay. When ready to leave, we hove up the anchor, and not having room enough for our vessel to cast, or turn, she ran directly upon the coral reef; we let go an anchor, but not in time to have it avail us any thing; then unshackling the chain, we lowered the kedge into a boat, carried it out astern the length of the line, and let her go; haulingaway upon the line, hove the ship off to a proper distance, and let go another anchor. We next went on shore to get divers to go for the anchor we first let go; the one first obtained was a young man altogether unexperienced in the art; his first dive proved ineffectual; when he came to the surface, the blood gushed from his nostrils in streams, and was with much difficulty stopped. The second one took his small line and succeeded in attaching it to the ring of the anchor; again diving, taking a large hawser with him, he fastened the small line to it, and again came to the surface; then with the small one, drew the hawser through the ring, and brought it to the ship's side. Veering away upon the hawser, we brought the ship directly over the anchor; manning the windlass, we hove the ship to her berth again; loosing down upon the anchor again, with the hawser veered away, and again brought the ship's bow directly over it, and hauled it to the water's edge, then hooking the cat-block secured it to the ship. Putting all things in readiness, we set sail; several days elapsed before we knew whither we were bound; at length the captain informed us that we were going to the Coast of Japan. A long time elapsed before we even saw the spout of a whales. Passing the meridian we fell in with a school of whale; took about 100 barrels of oil. Saw no more until off the coast of Japan.While on our way we took fish of many kinds, caught many dolphins, one of the beautiful inhabitants of the sea. "The general length of this fish appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears little resemblance to the representation of it seen on vases and in marine emblems and armorial bearings, but is very similar tothe white salmon-trout of the Otsego. When swimming in the water its colors appears exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the sides, vary from the hues of burnished steel to that of deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off in the under parts in pea-green and light yellow. One was struck with a harpoon and brought on deck, and we all hastened to witness the reported splendor of its colors when dying. We found them to be as truly beautiful as they have been described; consisting of rapid transitions from the deepest purple approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different hues, and several shades of silver, to an almost snow white, and then to purple again. The sight however was painful, from a kind of sympathy with the beautiful sufferer, we could but feel that the gratification of our curiosity was at the expense of its life. The colors soon became less and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely disappeared."The flying fish also attracted much attention. Many of them were taken as they flew on deck. They are of a slender proportion, about six inches long; they sometimes spring into the air even to the height of sixteen or eighteen feet, and swim horizontally through the air twenty or twenty-five feet, when they again fall into their native element. When under the surface they are incessantly pursued by dolphins, and while in the air they become the prey of sea gulls and other sea fowls, which are hovering over the sea in quest of food.A person ignorant of their nature would suppose them birds of small size, for like swallows they move by thousands in a right line, and always in a direction opposite that of the waves.At the island of Niphon we took several whale and blackfish; we also spoke several whale ships while cruising there.One day while in company with the ships, we saw a large school of whales at a distance. The boats were immediately lowered and all gave chase. We only took one, while some took two or three. One was taken along side and preparation made for boiling the oil. While in the midst of it a heavy squall arose from the northeast blowing like a perfect hurricane, threw our ship upon her beam ends, and sent the oil out of the pots, which were full, on to the men, severely scalding them.Every thing movable was capsized. Those below, thinking the vessel was going down, came hurriedly upon deck with horror most visibly depicted on their countenance. For some time all stood still, momentarily expecting the next moment would see us engulphed beneath the billows.Fortunately for us our sails were all stowed, as is customary in the time of boiling the oil, except a close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. The fore-sail was hauled up soon as possible, and the helm seized by one of the officers.The violence of the wind abated somewhat, when the rain came down in torrents, accompanied by lightning and thunder.The gale continued from the N. E. about six hours, when it suddenly shifted to the opposite point of the compass and blew, if possible, with redoubled energy, another six hours. The vessel creaked most terribly inher struggles, her lee gunwales in the water, and the sea breaking yard arm high.The captain thought proper at this time to lighten her of her top hamper. We were obliged to mount the masts to a distance of seventy or eighty feet, and when there, with every swell of the sea we would be carried with great velocity through a space of eighty or a hundred feet.The screams of those below, as they tried to make themselves heard, came to our ears, borne upon the tempest, like the shrieks of the dying. The mast and yards being let go eased her considerably, though the storm raged with unabated fury.Never before had I seen the sea presenting such an awful spectacle. "The fearful commotion which it was under was indeed indescribably sublime, yet was too dreadfully terrific, when at its height, to allow of much enjoyment. When it evidently begins to abate, and hope tells you the worst is passed, you are left to the indulgence of unmingled and enthusiastic admiration, and may gaze with delight at the ever varying scene, as wave after wave rears its monstrous head 'and casts its foaming horrors to the clouds.'"But, till this change does take place—while every successive blast blows harder and harder, and each billow threatens more surely than its precursor, to bury you under its weight,—it is impossible. Thoughts of fear must check, if they do not take entire place of the higher feelings of admiration."At length the fury of the tempest abated; we finished trying the oil, made sail and stood for the SandwichIslands. Nothing of note occurred while on the passage.Reached Maui the first of October, 1834. Having cut my foot on the passage, I was put under the charge of a resident physician, where I remained fourteen days. At the expiration of that time we took our departure from the island and stood away for the Navigators' Islands, cruising for whales, though taking only a few, and those very small.Cruising among the different groups, we reached Pitcairn's Island in the month of December.This island is noted as being the residence of Alexander Smith,alias, John Adams, one of the Mutineers of the ship Bounty, which was fitted out and sailed from England in 1787, for Otaheite, to procure the bread fruit tree and other trees and plants, which were to be introduced into the West Indies as articles of food.Having procured a supply, they sailed for their destined port, and while off the Friendly isles the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, the vessel seized, and the officers bound. One of the ship's boats was then lowered away, the officers and eighteen such as were not wanted put in, also a quantity of provisions and rum, a compass, and articles of clothing, blankets, &c., were allowed them, and the boat sent adrift.The mutineers, twenty-five in number, then proceeded to Otaheite, where a dissension took place and sixteen left the ship. The remaining nine, with six Otahitean men and twelve women, proceeded to Pitcairn's Island, where again domestic broils and assassinations ensued, and all of the Otaheitean men, and all the Englishmen, except two, fell. They established a code of laws bywhich they were governed. Smith, who changed his name to Adams, procured from the ship a bible and prayer-book, served as teacher or guide, enforcing the most strict discipline. His word was law. This teacher died in 1829, being the last male that landed there, the other who survived the broils and desertions, having died some time previous.The number on the island at the death of the patriarch Adams was about eighty.At the island of Rohanah, of the Friendly Islands, myself and one other were prompted by the poor success we had had to again leave the ship. This was put in force the day previous to the departure of the ship. When we went on shore with the boat's crew, we fled to the mountains.Having collected a few boughs together and built a hut, we went in quest of food, being very careful about breaking down the grass so as to form a path, lest the natives would find us. Obtained a quantity of bananas, plantains, and oranges, also a calabash of water. The next morning, quite to our delight, we saw from our mountain retreat the ship, with all canvass to the breeze, gliding swiftly from the harbor.We came down upon the beach among the natives, who treated us kindly, urging us to partake of their simple fare.There were two Europeans, one from Ireland, the other from England, who had long been residents there.We remained there seventeen days, when the brig Doll arrived there from Otaheite. She was cruising among the different groups for seals. They being in want of hands, I shipped myself as seaman. I informedmy companion of my engagement, also of their want of more, when he deridingly said, "when he went to sea he should go in a ship."The vessel was indeed one not at all prepossessing in its appearance, being old and poorly rigged, still I was willing to try my chance in her.Necessary preparations being made we set sail. Our crew was composed of ten Europeans, and six natives of the Society Islands. All things passed along very finely indeed, and in a few days we made the island of Magdalena, one of the Marquesas group. We knew the murderous cruelty of the inhabitants, still we proposed landing; and put the boats in readiness. When we came near the shore, the natives rushed in numbers to the bank, yelling and screaming most horridly, holding a human skull and other bones in their hands, which they brandished about, defying our attempts to land.Finding it useless to parley with them, we put back to the ship, and squaring our yards, stood around to the north end of Wytohoo and entered the straits that separate Wytohoo from Dominica, at a distance of from seven to twelve miles. Running through the straits we came abreast of the harbor long known as Resolution Bay. It being now near night, the captain thought proper to lay off and on during the night, and go on shore in the morning.That night we witnessed one of the most sublime spectacles I ever witnessed—what is termed a phosphorific illumination."The horizon in every direction presented a line of uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of ourvessel appeared kindling to a blaze, and as our bows occasionally dashed against a wave, the flash of the concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and illuminated every object along the whole length of the ship. By throwing any article overboard a display of light and colors took place surpassing in brilliancy and beauty the finest exhibition of fire-works."A charming effect was produced by a line coiled to some length, and then cast into the water at a distance, and also by a bucket of water dashed from the side of a vessel. The rudder, too, by its motions created splendid corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our track was marked far behind us. The smaller fish were distinctly traceable by running lines showing their rapid course, while now and then broad glimmerings, extending many yards in every direction, made known the movements of some monster of the deep."But minuteness will only weary without conveying any adequate impression of the scene. It would have been wise perhaps only to have said that it was among the most sublime nature herself ever presents."At eleven that evening a strong breeze arose from the west-southwest, which strengthened with each succeeding moment, until it ripened into a perfect gale.We made sail to get clear of the land. They were no sooner spread, than torn from the yards by the wind with a noise like thunder. Many a pale face and trembling lip were there. Before us, and under our lee were nothing but high and craggy rocks, to which we were rapidly hastening, with seemingly no chance of escape.THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.The wind rushing through the rigging so furiously, rendered all attempts to be heard fruitless.The lightning's incessant flashing, accompanied by loud thunder, rendered our situation the most appalling. Each moment brought us nearer the rocks.Our second mate, Mr. Anderson of England, lowered the larboard boat, with six men, (they were the Otahiteans, who eagerly rushed into the boat,) beside himself, which no sooner touched the water than they found a watery grave. Their shrieks were heard and moved our hearts to pity, but the hands that gladly would have rendered them assistance, were palsied. They were beyond our reach. We saw the waves sweep over them, as the wind moaned their requiem.The anchor being let go served to swing the vessel around, head to the wind, and in some degree to check her progress.This being considered a favorable moment, the captain instantly lowered away his boat with the remaining eight, (one having been lost overboard in the early part of the gale,) in safety. But we were only just in season, for a moment after the ship parted from her anchor, and rushed upon the rocks with a mighty crash.So complete was the wreck that scarce one plank was left upon another.We lay in the harbor from two o'clock, A. M. until day, keeping under the point for shelter from the blast, about a mile from where the vessel struck.
Sail for the "Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to anchor at Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. Reach the human habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, who takes us to St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Governor. Thrown into a Calaboose. Released by the Captain. Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the Galapagos. Scenes at that group. Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society Islands. Run upon the Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to dive for it. Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin and Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. Touch at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig Doll. Arrive at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phosphoretic scene. A heavy storm. Seven men lost. Flee to the boats. The ship runs upon the rocks.
On our return from the volcano, we took on wood, water, and other necessaries for the voyage, and stood for the "Off shore ground," or the Coast of Peru, where we cruised two months with the poorest luck. Sick at heart, we put into Payta, one of the ports of Peru.
The poor success which had attended us, caused the greatest dissatisfaction among the crew, yet none attributed it to the officers of the ship. Myself and two others concluded to try our luck in another way; together we formed a plan to leave the ship, secrete ourselves in the woods until her departure, we would then return to the shore, and see what chance would favor us with.
When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we took as much salt beef, bread, and water, as we could carry without detection, and started for the woods, which lay but a short distance from the shore; they were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an immense sand plain or desert, without bush or shrub of any kind. The light drifting sand soon obliterated all traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to reach the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost sight of the woods: to retrace our steps was now utterly impossible—our footprints were no longer visible—we now realized the true character of our situation—parched with thirst—worn with fatigue—amidst an ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream appeared to cheer the lonely wanderer. We sat ourselves sat down upon the burning sand, beneath a torrid sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. The saltness of the meat greatly increased our thirst; we at length fell in with our own footprints, nearly filled with sand. We sat down in despair; the sun having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, which we followed, until it sank beneath the horizon; night came, and found us still hungry and shelterless. Having eaten our last morsel, and drank our last drop of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we slept but very little. We spread our flannel shirts upon the sand, and when they were saturated with dew, (the dews of the country are very heavy, and supply the deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would wring them, and suck the moisture; this being oftenrepeated, alleviated our thirst somewhat. No mind can form any description, or form to itself any definite idea of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our steps. With joy we welcomed the approach of morning, hoping that ere another day should pass, we should be able to find some means of rescue from our horrible situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed with the heat of the sun upon the head; and our tongues were so swollen as to render our mouths hardly able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. Driven to the last extremity, we resorted to the use of our own urine, for the alleviation of our thirst; this was repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we started again: after wandering a long time, we fell in with the tracks of a horse or mule. So excessive was our joy at this discovery, that we almost forgot our fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy however, was soon at an end. for the tracks were obliterated, and we were as bad off as before, and worse even; for having seen the light, the darkness was still deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for some time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our wretchedness. With the closest scrutiny we followed the tracks; about midnight, (as near as we could judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried "land ahead," much to our joy. On we passed, and found it to be low shrubbery, about three feet high. Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so rejoiced were we to find any living thing.
Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the greatest avidity. As we went on, the path increased in size. Soon we heard the loud barking of a dog; never before was such a welcome so well received.
This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we were near habitations of some kind, little caring what. But a short time elapsed before we came upon a house, evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who cried lustily in Spanish, "Who is there? what do you want?" Fortunately for us, one of our number understood the language sufficiently well to make our wants known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his house was immediately opened, and we were welcome to such as he had, viz: dried beef and milk: this, to the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the choicest kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was the danger of our eating too much: this, reason strongly pointed out to us, but appetite got the ascendency, and before we were aware of it we were in as great danger from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue. Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed assistance. His repeated kindnesses induced us to place unlimited confidence in him; we told him of our deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He cunningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, to take a ride to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen miles from Payta. We mounted the asses and proceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were given up to the governor as deserters, and confined. The Spaniard received a reward for delivering us up to the proper authorities. This we could not approve,though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his country. The next morning we were fitted out for Payta, guarded by six Spanish soldiers, all on asses. Our route lay along the coast, and was indeed very pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suffering on the plain, we hardly realized that we were prisoners strongly guarded, so merrily we passed along. The soldiers were themselves very joyful.
On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison for safe keeping. Our captain was then notified of our apprehension, and came to see us, and asked us if we were willing to go to our duty like faithful men. That we assured him we would most certainly do. Manifesting much indifference he turned away, saying he would see what the charges were, and think about releasing us. The prison into which we were thrown was of the most filthy kind; my mind recoils with horror at the thought of it. We passed the night without closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of enormous size were jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, consisting of jerk beef, brown bread, and cold water. So loathsome was the place that we would almost have rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expectation for the re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or at least hoping he would bring a release. At length he came, having paid twenty-five dollars for us. We went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, as we thought, dearly as deserters.
I propose here giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of Peru, but owing to the insufficient timeallotted common sailors for getting any definite idea of the countries which they may visit, I shall be obliged to couple the statements of others with my own observation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square miles in area. The Andes range of mountains extend through this country, the highest point of which is 22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba. The celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation exceeding 18,000 feet. In the eastern Andes remains of mining excavations are found at an elevation of 16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The entry to the gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is close to the region of eternal snow. Intersecting the country in different directions are other ranges of mountains, which do not properly belong to the Andes; these are of various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru proper, which is merely a narrow strip, and also of the various chains of mountains which contain between them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic streams, this country contains immense plains, or pampas, as they are called by the Spanish, extending from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese frontier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in equal breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters through the centre of this continental steppe; and these plains are so abundantly watered, that they are everywhere fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests. The most noted of these plains contains more than 60,000 square miles; and is capable of supporting 5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the "Steppe of the Holy Sacrament."
The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this country, among the Andes, in a number of head streams. Those streams which empty into the Pacific, flowing from the western side of the Andes, are of but little importance, being quite small in size. The climate of the country is variable; that of the Coast or Low Peru, is dry and temperate; that of the Sierras mild, that of the Andes piercingly cold; and that of the Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, if we can judge from the long life of its inhabitants. Persons are often found living at the age of 120, and sometimes reach the extreme age of 150 years. A Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of Caxamarea, aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, leaving 800 lineal descendants. But such extreme age is by no means common to the whole country. The climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The warmth and extreme humidity render them almost uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes on the rivers rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to the almost insuperable barriers to communication with the coast, agriculture is generally speaking in a wretched state.
Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the Montana Real, and on the banks of the Maranon. Flax is common, but the Indians leave the stems to perish, and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some districts a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality is not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively strong, and there is cinnamon stronger than that ofCeylon, though not so valuable for use. A great variety of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, Estalla enumerates the cedar, the olive, the wild orange, the incorruptiblealgorob, the palm, the willow, and many other trees. On the coast, and western slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pineapple, tumeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. No less than twenty-four species of pepper are raised in Peru. Tobacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the Andes. The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes are the different species ofcinchonas, or the salutary Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in metalic wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and of silver ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, and lead ore occur, frequently intermixed with white silver ore, and virgin silver, in threads. In many parts are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold is also obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the rivers. Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing to their being inundated by water, which has continued to gain on them so as to completely choke them.
The principal silver mines were discovered in 1630, by an Indian shepherd, and though very badly wrought, they annually furnish near $2,500,000. These mines are usually called Pareo, and Cerro de Bombon. Humbolt calculates the produce of gold and silver at $6,000,000 annually. To this sum must be added the fraudulent exportation of silver, or what is denominated unregistered produce, on which no duty has been paid—this is estimated at $940,000.
Mercury is found is abundance in Peru, which is not the case in any other part of Spanish America. The other minerals are numerous. There are many obstacles, however, to successful mining in Peru. One great difficulty is the ignorance of the miners in the science of amalgamation. Another is the want of capital; the operator being in most cases, in necessitous circumstances, is obliged to borrow money on very exorbitant interest to enable him to commence his works, and to sell the produce of his mines at a great sacrifice, in order to carry them on. The labor of the mines is principally performed by the Indians, as they only are able to endure the fatigue and unwholesomeness of the employment.
The commerce of Peru consists for the most part in the interchange of the precious metals for foreign products, and manufactures; of which considerable quantities are imported. There is a great want of good roads and bridges in Peru; and in the little intercourse between the seaports and the interior of the country, almost every article of trade is carried on the backs of mules and lamas. The ancient Peruvians were partially civilized; they constructed numerous and excellent roads, and also built stone palaces of enormous size; were skilled in making vessels of gold and silver, and cultivated the land with much care.
At the time of the Spanish conquest, Peru comprised a territory of much greater dimensions, than the modern state of the same name. Its kings were a dynasty of princes, called Incas; they were supposed to be descended from the sun, and were held sacred and adored by the people. At the time Pizarro took possession ofthis country, the reigning Incas were put to death, and the dominion of the Spanish sovereign established. This occurred forty years after the discovery of America.
Peru with the other American provinces of Spain was long governed by Viceroys, appointed by the kings of that country; but in the year 1821, the people established a government of their own, and with the assistance of the Colombians achieved their independence in 1824, by the defeat of the last Spanish army at Ayachuco.
In the year 1836, Peru was divided into the states of North Peru, and South Peru, which with Bolivia, were formed in the Peru-Bolivian confederation, under a chief magistrate styled the Supreme Protector. Three years afterwards, the army of the confederation was defeated by the Chilians, at Uraguay, and the Republic was dissolved.
The Peruvians like the other people of South America, are composed of various races; the most numerous being the Creoles of European descent, and the Indians. There are many tribes of the Indians; they are much debased, and seldom cheerful. The Carapachas are exceedingly beautiful, and are said even to rival the Circassians; but their speech is very offensive, resembling the barking of dogs, owing to the guttural sounds. The women of some tribes are warlike. The Omagna tribe flatten the head, like some of the North American Indians. The Indians occupy the same place in society as in Mexico. They are idle, filthy, superstitious, and suspicious. Their dress and habitations are mean and poor; their capacities are very limited, and they havelittle variety of character. They are governed by native chiefs or caciques.
The gentlemen of Peru imitate the English fashion of dress, and the ladies also, except in a peculiar walking dress, composed of a close petticoat of satin, &c., with a short cloak of silk drawn around the waist, and over the breast and head, half concealing the face. This dress is peculiar to Lima; the petticoat is elastic, and sets close enough to reveal the form. The hood, or manto, is probably a Moorish remnant. The dwellings of the Indians are mere huts, and generally architecture is in a much lower state than in Mexico. The roofs are flat, and the walls are often of wattled cane, plastered. The languages are the Spanish, and those of the Indians. The food does not essentially differ from that in the other South American States; and tobacco is very extensively used. There is little veal or lamb, and many sweetmeats are consumed. A fermented liquor, calledchichais made of maize, and used to considerable extent. The diseases are not peculiar. To travel in Peru, is a severe hardship and privation; the mule is much used. This animal is invaluable from its cautious instinct in passing the defiles or sides of the mountains, where a misstep would cast them to a measureless distance below. In many places where they cannot step, they protrude their feet, and slide downwards, directing their course with the utmost sagacity. It is not safe for the rider to assume any guidance over them, when he is riding with one leg over a precipice, while the other rubs against the side of the mountain.
The hospitality of the Peruvians has no limits, and like the others of European descent in South America,they are distinguished for their paternal and filial virtues. The Creole ladies are good mothers, and wives, and almost every family is a happy circle. Dancing, music, tertulias, bull-fights, and cock-fighting are the common amusements. The negro slaves receive kind treatment, and are instructed in the christian religion. It is common to see the white children thus instructing those of a household. Education is little attended to, but more than under the old government. The ruling religion is the Roman Catholic.
There is no country whose history is more interesting than Peru. Leaving Peru we stood for the Gallapagos, which lie off the coast about 200 miles, and form a considerable group intersected by the equator; though many of them are small, and covered with forests. Turtle are found here in great abundance, and of enormous size. Dodging about for a few days, we took three small whale; this place is famous as the resort of the sperm whale in the time of its having its young, being perfectly adapted to it. Soon as the young is born, it mounts the fin of its mother, and rides safely away. After the oil was tried, and stowed, the ship cleaned, &c., we put two boats in readiness, and rowed away for the shore in quest of turtle, or turpin, (a species of turtle;) we landed on a beautiful, low, sandy beach, a short distance from the shore; high craggy cliffs arose destitute of almost all verdure save the prickly pear bush, which grows to about the size of the American quince bush; the fruit is of a bright red, is covered with sharp, piercing prickles like the gooseberry: much difficulty arises in removing them; the fruit is most delicious; the trees and leaves are also coveredwith the same sharp hard prickles. We ascended the cliff, and wandered around an hour or two, and found nothing, save a few guana, an animal of the lizard appearance, though much larger. Many times they are found four or five feet long. The flesh is very tender, sweet and delicate, and is of great note among the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, as a fancy dish. Fell in with a large turpin, the first one any of us ever saw; when we came up with him, he retreated within his shell; we turned him over upon his back, to see his agility in turning himself back; he ran out his long neck, which was not less than two feet and a half long, and with his short legs labored most assiduously; he at length accomplished his object; this done, we laid hold of his legs, which were not more than six inches long, and started for the boat; when we came to a steep point in the path, we would place him upon the edge of his shell, and set him rolling,—many times a long way. After toiling a long time, we reached the boat. Soon others, who had gone in a different way, returned richly laden; they found one so very large, they were unable to bring it until divested of its shell. About thirty were taken during the few days we remained at this island. Getting ready we proceeded to sea, ran close to the rock of Dundas. This is a monumental rock of black granite, rearing its head eighty or an hundred feet above the water. The water around it is about sixty fathoms deep; the currents are such, that it is utterly impossible for ships to float or be driven against it; the sides are so bold that it cannot be ascended; boobys and other birds are always perched upon the top. The wind being light, we lowered ourboat and set lines for fishing; divided the seven lines between two boats, and in a couple of hours took about 400 large red fish, called by the seamen snappers; as fast as the lines could be set the fish were caught. We salted the principal part of them; we left the place and proceeded on our way, the wind and weather was most beautiful. Smoothly we glided along at the rate of four or five knots an hour, bound for the Society Islands. Fell in with a large number of whale going north; lowered away the boats; took seven, and had them alongside at dark: the ship was hove too, and the next morning the oil was tried; had 105 barrels.
Passing Otaheite, we came abreast of the harbor of Emer; the high points of land on both sides becalmed us so we were obliged to lower our boats and take the ship in tow; we brought her into the harbor, and hove her anchor to keep her off the coral reef, which lay close under our lee. Before the sails could be furled, the ship was covered with females who had swam to her. Whether the use of the boats is forbidden them I know not, yet I presume such is the fact, with regard to this as well as to other islands; at any rate, during our stay I did not see any of them in a boat. Here we procured wood and water, and had liberty on shore; during our stay two men left the ship. Having once myself suffered much as a deserter, I chose to stay. When ready to leave, we hove up the anchor, and not having room enough for our vessel to cast, or turn, she ran directly upon the coral reef; we let go an anchor, but not in time to have it avail us any thing; then unshackling the chain, we lowered the kedge into a boat, carried it out astern the length of the line, and let her go; haulingaway upon the line, hove the ship off to a proper distance, and let go another anchor. We next went on shore to get divers to go for the anchor we first let go; the one first obtained was a young man altogether unexperienced in the art; his first dive proved ineffectual; when he came to the surface, the blood gushed from his nostrils in streams, and was with much difficulty stopped. The second one took his small line and succeeded in attaching it to the ring of the anchor; again diving, taking a large hawser with him, he fastened the small line to it, and again came to the surface; then with the small one, drew the hawser through the ring, and brought it to the ship's side. Veering away upon the hawser, we brought the ship directly over the anchor; manning the windlass, we hove the ship to her berth again; loosing down upon the anchor again, with the hawser veered away, and again brought the ship's bow directly over it, and hauled it to the water's edge, then hooking the cat-block secured it to the ship. Putting all things in readiness, we set sail; several days elapsed before we knew whither we were bound; at length the captain informed us that we were going to the Coast of Japan. A long time elapsed before we even saw the spout of a whales. Passing the meridian we fell in with a school of whale; took about 100 barrels of oil. Saw no more until off the coast of Japan.
While on our way we took fish of many kinds, caught many dolphins, one of the beautiful inhabitants of the sea. "The general length of this fish appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears little resemblance to the representation of it seen on vases and in marine emblems and armorial bearings, but is very similar tothe white salmon-trout of the Otsego. When swimming in the water its colors appears exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the sides, vary from the hues of burnished steel to that of deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off in the under parts in pea-green and light yellow. One was struck with a harpoon and brought on deck, and we all hastened to witness the reported splendor of its colors when dying. We found them to be as truly beautiful as they have been described; consisting of rapid transitions from the deepest purple approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different hues, and several shades of silver, to an almost snow white, and then to purple again. The sight however was painful, from a kind of sympathy with the beautiful sufferer, we could but feel that the gratification of our curiosity was at the expense of its life. The colors soon became less and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely disappeared."
The flying fish also attracted much attention. Many of them were taken as they flew on deck. They are of a slender proportion, about six inches long; they sometimes spring into the air even to the height of sixteen or eighteen feet, and swim horizontally through the air twenty or twenty-five feet, when they again fall into their native element. When under the surface they are incessantly pursued by dolphins, and while in the air they become the prey of sea gulls and other sea fowls, which are hovering over the sea in quest of food.
A person ignorant of their nature would suppose them birds of small size, for like swallows they move by thousands in a right line, and always in a direction opposite that of the waves.
At the island of Niphon we took several whale and blackfish; we also spoke several whale ships while cruising there.
One day while in company with the ships, we saw a large school of whales at a distance. The boats were immediately lowered and all gave chase. We only took one, while some took two or three. One was taken along side and preparation made for boiling the oil. While in the midst of it a heavy squall arose from the northeast blowing like a perfect hurricane, threw our ship upon her beam ends, and sent the oil out of the pots, which were full, on to the men, severely scalding them.
Every thing movable was capsized. Those below, thinking the vessel was going down, came hurriedly upon deck with horror most visibly depicted on their countenance. For some time all stood still, momentarily expecting the next moment would see us engulphed beneath the billows.
Fortunately for us our sails were all stowed, as is customary in the time of boiling the oil, except a close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. The fore-sail was hauled up soon as possible, and the helm seized by one of the officers.
The violence of the wind abated somewhat, when the rain came down in torrents, accompanied by lightning and thunder.
The gale continued from the N. E. about six hours, when it suddenly shifted to the opposite point of the compass and blew, if possible, with redoubled energy, another six hours. The vessel creaked most terribly inher struggles, her lee gunwales in the water, and the sea breaking yard arm high.
The captain thought proper at this time to lighten her of her top hamper. We were obliged to mount the masts to a distance of seventy or eighty feet, and when there, with every swell of the sea we would be carried with great velocity through a space of eighty or a hundred feet.
The screams of those below, as they tried to make themselves heard, came to our ears, borne upon the tempest, like the shrieks of the dying. The mast and yards being let go eased her considerably, though the storm raged with unabated fury.
Never before had I seen the sea presenting such an awful spectacle. "The fearful commotion which it was under was indeed indescribably sublime, yet was too dreadfully terrific, when at its height, to allow of much enjoyment. When it evidently begins to abate, and hope tells you the worst is passed, you are left to the indulgence of unmingled and enthusiastic admiration, and may gaze with delight at the ever varying scene, as wave after wave rears its monstrous head 'and casts its foaming horrors to the clouds.'
"But, till this change does take place—while every successive blast blows harder and harder, and each billow threatens more surely than its precursor, to bury you under its weight,—it is impossible. Thoughts of fear must check, if they do not take entire place of the higher feelings of admiration."
At length the fury of the tempest abated; we finished trying the oil, made sail and stood for the SandwichIslands. Nothing of note occurred while on the passage.
Reached Maui the first of October, 1834. Having cut my foot on the passage, I was put under the charge of a resident physician, where I remained fourteen days. At the expiration of that time we took our departure from the island and stood away for the Navigators' Islands, cruising for whales, though taking only a few, and those very small.
Cruising among the different groups, we reached Pitcairn's Island in the month of December.
This island is noted as being the residence of Alexander Smith,alias, John Adams, one of the Mutineers of the ship Bounty, which was fitted out and sailed from England in 1787, for Otaheite, to procure the bread fruit tree and other trees and plants, which were to be introduced into the West Indies as articles of food.
Having procured a supply, they sailed for their destined port, and while off the Friendly isles the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, the vessel seized, and the officers bound. One of the ship's boats was then lowered away, the officers and eighteen such as were not wanted put in, also a quantity of provisions and rum, a compass, and articles of clothing, blankets, &c., were allowed them, and the boat sent adrift.
The mutineers, twenty-five in number, then proceeded to Otaheite, where a dissension took place and sixteen left the ship. The remaining nine, with six Otahitean men and twelve women, proceeded to Pitcairn's Island, where again domestic broils and assassinations ensued, and all of the Otaheitean men, and all the Englishmen, except two, fell. They established a code of laws bywhich they were governed. Smith, who changed his name to Adams, procured from the ship a bible and prayer-book, served as teacher or guide, enforcing the most strict discipline. His word was law. This teacher died in 1829, being the last male that landed there, the other who survived the broils and desertions, having died some time previous.
The number on the island at the death of the patriarch Adams was about eighty.
At the island of Rohanah, of the Friendly Islands, myself and one other were prompted by the poor success we had had to again leave the ship. This was put in force the day previous to the departure of the ship. When we went on shore with the boat's crew, we fled to the mountains.
Having collected a few boughs together and built a hut, we went in quest of food, being very careful about breaking down the grass so as to form a path, lest the natives would find us. Obtained a quantity of bananas, plantains, and oranges, also a calabash of water. The next morning, quite to our delight, we saw from our mountain retreat the ship, with all canvass to the breeze, gliding swiftly from the harbor.
We came down upon the beach among the natives, who treated us kindly, urging us to partake of their simple fare.
There were two Europeans, one from Ireland, the other from England, who had long been residents there.
We remained there seventeen days, when the brig Doll arrived there from Otaheite. She was cruising among the different groups for seals. They being in want of hands, I shipped myself as seaman. I informedmy companion of my engagement, also of their want of more, when he deridingly said, "when he went to sea he should go in a ship."
The vessel was indeed one not at all prepossessing in its appearance, being old and poorly rigged, still I was willing to try my chance in her.
Necessary preparations being made we set sail. Our crew was composed of ten Europeans, and six natives of the Society Islands. All things passed along very finely indeed, and in a few days we made the island of Magdalena, one of the Marquesas group. We knew the murderous cruelty of the inhabitants, still we proposed landing; and put the boats in readiness. When we came near the shore, the natives rushed in numbers to the bank, yelling and screaming most horridly, holding a human skull and other bones in their hands, which they brandished about, defying our attempts to land.
Finding it useless to parley with them, we put back to the ship, and squaring our yards, stood around to the north end of Wytohoo and entered the straits that separate Wytohoo from Dominica, at a distance of from seven to twelve miles. Running through the straits we came abreast of the harbor long known as Resolution Bay. It being now near night, the captain thought proper to lay off and on during the night, and go on shore in the morning.
That night we witnessed one of the most sublime spectacles I ever witnessed—what is termed a phosphorific illumination.
"The horizon in every direction presented a line of uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of ourvessel appeared kindling to a blaze, and as our bows occasionally dashed against a wave, the flash of the concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and illuminated every object along the whole length of the ship. By throwing any article overboard a display of light and colors took place surpassing in brilliancy and beauty the finest exhibition of fire-works.
"A charming effect was produced by a line coiled to some length, and then cast into the water at a distance, and also by a bucket of water dashed from the side of a vessel. The rudder, too, by its motions created splendid corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our track was marked far behind us. The smaller fish were distinctly traceable by running lines showing their rapid course, while now and then broad glimmerings, extending many yards in every direction, made known the movements of some monster of the deep.
"But minuteness will only weary without conveying any adequate impression of the scene. It would have been wise perhaps only to have said that it was among the most sublime nature herself ever presents."
At eleven that evening a strong breeze arose from the west-southwest, which strengthened with each succeeding moment, until it ripened into a perfect gale.
We made sail to get clear of the land. They were no sooner spread, than torn from the yards by the wind with a noise like thunder. Many a pale face and trembling lip were there. Before us, and under our lee were nothing but high and craggy rocks, to which we were rapidly hastening, with seemingly no chance of escape.
THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.
THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.
THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.
The wind rushing through the rigging so furiously, rendered all attempts to be heard fruitless.
The lightning's incessant flashing, accompanied by loud thunder, rendered our situation the most appalling. Each moment brought us nearer the rocks.
Our second mate, Mr. Anderson of England, lowered the larboard boat, with six men, (they were the Otahiteans, who eagerly rushed into the boat,) beside himself, which no sooner touched the water than they found a watery grave. Their shrieks were heard and moved our hearts to pity, but the hands that gladly would have rendered them assistance, were palsied. They were beyond our reach. We saw the waves sweep over them, as the wind moaned their requiem.
The anchor being let go served to swing the vessel around, head to the wind, and in some degree to check her progress.
This being considered a favorable moment, the captain instantly lowered away his boat with the remaining eight, (one having been lost overboard in the early part of the gale,) in safety. But we were only just in season, for a moment after the ship parted from her anchor, and rushed upon the rocks with a mighty crash.
So complete was the wreck that scarce one plank was left upon another.
We lay in the harbor from two o'clock, A. M. until day, keeping under the point for shelter from the blast, about a mile from where the vessel struck.