CHAPTER IX.A visit from the Cohaphas. Our King wishes to learn the use of the gun. Abandons the idea. Arrival of Captain Fisher. His inhumanity. Is driven from the land. Manner of fishing. Attempt to cultivate tobacco. Efficacy of the tabu law. A missionary ship arrives. Meetings are held. Unbelief of the natives. Narrow escape of the author. Conduct of Mr. Daylia. He is driven from the island. Another sail approaches. Recognition of the Captain. His conduct. Plan of escape. The king is deceived. The author leaves the island. Secretes himself. Is missed. His unpleasant situation. Joy at seeing the natives leave the ship. Reflections.A few days after, a number of the Cohaphas visited our valley, expressing a strong desire to see the Tehoury and their Pobohe. Among them was the celebrated chief Cappayoho, who was still lame from the wound he had received from our slugs. When we came before him, he looked upon us with perfect astonishment, turned us around again and again, asking many questions respecting ourselves, our country, and the use of our pobohe. A large hog was brought in and roasted, and a sumptuous feast given, of which all partook, forgetting all feelings of enmity.One day our king expressed a strong desire to learn the use of the gun, and asked me to show him. Not liking the idea of it, being fearful we should not only lose the gun, but the reputation we then sustained from our success with it, I resolved to fix him so that hewould abandon the thought of it. I accordingly put in a powerful charge, and gave him the gun. He with great confidence brought it to his shoulder, and discharged it. So powerful was it that it threw him upon the ground with great force. He sprang to his feet, exclaiming in great rage—"Kekeno tehoury!" I assured him he did not hold it right, and then loaded it for myself and discharged it without harm. That served to convince him. He declared he would never touch the thing again, and did not during my stay there.The war having closed, left us without any particular way of spending our time, except getting our supply of fruits for living; this done, time passed heavily. Often we would retire to the groves or some secluded spot, where, shut out from the world as it were, we would sing some lively song, which would call to our minds most vividly the scenes of other days. Home, with all its allurements, would rush before us, and our untold grief could scarcely be borne. Suddenly some native would come upon us, perhaps when we were weeping, when we would feign that degree of contentedness which made them believe we were truly so.At length the cry ofmoco nui, a large ship, resounded through the valley. This we fancied was the time for our deliverance from this place. She stood abreast the harbor, taking in her light sails; the boats were lowered and came towards the shore; when within hailing distance they asked for permission to land. This the king, through me, granted. Returning to the ship, they stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The females swam to the ship, and, before the sails could be furled, the decks were literally full of them.She proved to be the ship Pocahontas, Capt. Fisher, of Sag Harbor. The captain coming on shore, I acquainted him with our situation, and requested his interference in our behalf. He, with a great degree of indifference, offered to take us away if we would get the king's full consent; this he knew we could not do. I then asked him for clothing? His reply was:"I do not carry clothes around for such miserable fellows as you are;" and furthermore, he had none except those needed for the use of the ship's crew; yet he offered to sell me some, provided I would pay him in American currency. I could only offer him the usual commodity of the island—hogs, &c. These, he said, he could buy of the natives with a few scraps of old iron.His casks were already on shore for water, and he was trying to get the natives to fill them. I went to the king and told him he was a kekeno tehoury, (bad white man,) and that he was going to get water and hogs without pay, and advised him to drive them from the harbor. The king at this became greatly enraged, and called together the tribe, or many of them, ordered Capt. Fisher to leave the island immediately, and not to land their boats again.The casks were rolled into the water, the natives followed up closely with clubs and spears, ready to force them away, should they offer resistance or in any way retard their operations. The next morning they weighed anchor and left our harbor, without being able to get either water or provisions.As fishing was one of the ways in which we spentour time, I purpose here giving an account of the manner in which fish are caught:When a school of porpoises enter the harbor, notice is given to the tribe, who, armed with stones, immediately resort to the water; some on each side rush into the water, beating the stones together beneath the surface. The porpoises becoming frightened, flee before their pursuers and are driven upon the beach, where they are killed by the old men and boys with clubs.—They are then taken to their huts, and hung up by a cord of bark run through the tail. From these they daily feast, until they rot and fall from their hanging place.Smaller fish are taken by nets, made of the cords of bark. These nets are about twenty feet across the top or mouth; they are sunk below the water's surface by stones placed in the bottom and attached to several boats, stationed at regular points about, by cords. The natives then swim around on all sides, and at a given signal swim towards the boats, beating stones together. The fish frightened on all sides, flee to the least dangerous point, which is in the vicinity of the net; the net is then raised to the surface, oftentimes catching a barrel or two at a time. The females seldom join in catching fish, and never unless by special permission.Finding a plant much resembling tobacco, I thought I would try to cultivate it, hoping to improve it, and accordingly set out a number of plants. These the hogs destroyed. When I supplied their place, I bargained with a native to build a stone wall around the patch, which was about fifteen feet square, for a half head of tobacco. When the wall was done I paid him. Heseemed not altogether satisfied with the bargain; he left the hut and went directly to the spot and tore the wall down. I informed the king, hoping he would make him rebuild it. The king seized his club and ran every foot to the house in which he lived. As he with the other members of the family were seated at their evening repast, he rushed in and gave him a heavy blow with the club, completely severing the head in twain, and the brains and blood flew around upon those who sat with him. The king then ordered his brother to take the body and put it in a certain hole in the rocks, where the tide as it ebbed and flows would wash it. Had I supposed such would have been the case, I should not have informed the king of him.My wife knowing the treachery of the tribe, also hearing their threats, put me on my guard.Several times they attempted me harm, but I evaded them.One night while we were quietly reposing on our beds of leaves, with the amer nut light burning by my side, a spear was forced through the side of the hut and lodged within a few inches of my body. I sprang to my feet, put out my light, and remained on the watch the remainder of the night.The next morning I carried the spear to the king, who called the tribe together, and holding up the spear, called upon the owner to come for it; but no one appeared. Then in the presence of the whole tribe he put me and my household under thetabulaw, which effectually shielded me from all harm. However great their anger or the desire to kill me might have been, none dare lay the finger of harm upon me. Thus to theirheathenish superstition I owed my life, for such was their anger that no law save that would have deterred them from reeking their vengeance upon me.This however did not heal the wound, or cause the wave of forgetfulness to sweep over the affair, as there was always, during my stay on the island, a sort of hatred existing with the members of that family toward me, though they dare not manifest it.Again a heavy sail was seen approaching our shores. We dare not look forward to an opportunity of escape, so often had we been doomed to disappointment.As she came into the harbor and dropped her anchor, we thought we could notice less confusion than usually attended ships on coming to anchor.The king requested Noyce and myself to go with him to the ship. He had never before allowed us to do that.On reaching the ship we crawled up her sides, and jumped over the bulwark, when we found ourselves, naked as when born, before two or three English ladies. We instantly jumped overboard, seized a canoe and pulled for the shore, when, Adam-like, we procured leaves and made aprons for ourselves. This proved a Missionary ship, sent from Otaheite, under the direction of an English missionary, named Daylia, who had long resided there, to establish a station, which he intended leaving in charge of two gentlemen, Messrs. Bingham and Morris, who with their wives had come thither for that purpose.Soon Mr. Daylia, Mr. Bingham and the captain came upon the shore, and after learning the reason of our being there, &c., inquired of the general character of thenatives, and of our views of the proposed idea of establishing a station there. Knowing as we did of the hatred with which they were accustomed to look upon all not belonging to their own tribe, especially should they differ from them, we said much to dissuade them from the attempt. Perhaps however we were influenced more by feelings of selfishness, which might arise from the nature of our situation among them, than otherwise. And in such a light it was viewed by Mr. Daylia, who reprimanded me in a manner not at all becoming the dignity of his station. From that moment Mr. Daylia looked upon me as upon a person bearing his dislike, not to say hatred.Notwithstanding our efforts to have them relinquish the idea of remaining, they moved some of their effects on shore, among them were a bull and cow, without permission, and took possession of an uninhabited hut near the tabu ground.This greatly incensed the king against them, and had I not interfered, he would have driven, not only the animals, but the people from his shores entirely. At any rate he would not have the animals there, and ordered them removed immediately, or he would kill them. They were accordingly taken to the ships again.They brought the females on shore and commenced building a house on the tabu ground; the king watching every movement, forbid their proceeding, and asked them by what authority they entered upon his consecrated grounds. Mr. Daylia replied, "By the Lord's authority." The king significantly said the Lord had nothing to do with the tabu ground, and again forbid their building there.They persisting in staying, the king told them they might do so while they remained at peace with the other tribes, but should a war break out, they would be tattooed, or driven from the land.Meetings were held each day, which Noyce and myself generally attended, at the request of the missionaries, as an example to the natives.The Otaheitean and Marquisian languages are so nearly alike they could converse without an interpreter.Daylia, in one of his meetings, said much about the good land and a bad land, telling them if they would be good and pray they would go to the good land, when they died. This he explained in a manner suited to their understanding. One of the chiefs jumped up and asked if the missionary who died at Nukuhivah (an English missionary who died about two years before) had gone to that good land. Mr. Daylia assured them he had, when, unwilling to believe it, they sent four men to that island, (about fifty miles) to get some of the bones. At the expiration of five or six days they returned, bringing bones with them; and at the next meeting, when Daylia was again telling of the good land, they set up a shouting, calling him a liar and showed him the bones. They told him he had been driven from his own land and had come to live with them, and he might stop preaching about his good land and his bad land, for they would not believe him. In vain were his remonstrances with them. They told him if he would climb a lofty cocoa-nut tree, which stood near, and jump among the rocks unhurt, they would believe him.Still he held his meetings, but not with any degree ofpleasantness, for the natives were as likely to set up a war dance as any thing else.This was imputed to me by Mr. Daylia, who threatened to send me to England and have me severely punished. His threats I did not heed very much, though I should have been extremely glad to have been sent there.One morning, at an early hour, going as usual to bathe, I met a servant of Mr. Daylia, who was a native of Otaheite, with an axe upon his shoulder. Having before been on good terms with him, I smilingly passed the compliment of the morning, (Kaoha, good morning) and was passing on. Accidentally turning my eye, I saw the axe uplifted, and aimed at my head. I fell upon my knees and evaded the blow. With earnestness I sprang and caught it, having one hand at the head and the other at the end of the helve, before he could again raise it.Pulling hard as if to get possession of it, at the same time wrestling about, I brought the edge towards him, he also pulling with his might in endeavoring to hold it, when I suddenly relaxed my hold, still holding on the handle, drove the edge into his face, running obliquely across the nose. This was repeated twice, when he fell yelling most lustily.His cries brought the missionary and many of the natives, with the king and second chief, to the spot.I told Daylia if that, with the treatment he had given me, was an illustration of his preaching, he had better stay at home than go to the heathen, professedly to preach peace and salvation, while he practiced such horrid digressions.The servant declared he was doing his master's bidding. This was stoutly contradicted by Daylia. Still I was led by the former friendship which had existed between us, and the previous conduct of Daylia, to believe the statement of the servant in preference to that of his.The king then ordered them to leave the island that day or he would kill them all. Daylia taking up a little child of one of the missionaries, said in a half sneering manner, "Would you kill this innocent one?" "Yes," says the king, "a nit will be a louse."Their goods were taken to the ship, and every preparation made to leave the island; Daylia, however, taking the opportunity to say to me that I might expect to be sent for from England to answer for my conduct, accusing me of influencing the king against them.This was not the fact; and, to the contrary, had I not interfered in their behalf, they would have been killed in the early part of their adventure.Still I did not favor the idea of their remaining very much, knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking with the then existing state of the inhabitants. Had such an enterprise been in the least degree practicable, we should have been foolish indeed not to have welcomed them with joy, as our situation would thereby have been greatly improved, if our escape had not been effected by it.It was painful, indeed, to see them depart, especially so, as far as Messrs. Bingham and Morris were concerned, for, towards them we had formed the strongest attachment.On the morning of the next day they weighed anchor and left the harbor.Twice since this time have the missionaries attempted to form a station there, and as many times been defeated. Once the French Catholics, with an armed force, attempted to drive them to repentance and religion at the point of the bayonet, but the missionaries and soldiers were massacred, and the sailors driven from the harbor.After the missionaries left the harbor, time passed still more heavily than before. A month or two elapsed without our having much to do.One day while seated on a high bluff overlooking the sea, watching for some distant sail, there I sat with anxious, straining eyes till near nightfall, when I discerned a speck in the distance, dancing upon the wave. I watched its course until it ripened into perfect form, giving the beautiful proportion of a large ship. With great eagerness I watched it until night closed it from my sight. Wondering whether she was destined to land at our shores, I returned to the valley and gave notice to the king of its approach.The next morning I, with my wife, at a very early hour, went to bathe, and saw the ship heading towards the harbor. The king and other natives soon joined us, all with straining eyes watching the ship.On its nearer approach the king asked me if I would take charge of the ship if he would kill all the crew and take possession of her. This I refused to do, saying our countrymen would come there in great numbers and kill us. He, shaking his head, said, "if they will kill you, what would they do to us? we will not touchthem." They suppose all ships and crews, like themselves, belong to some great king; and if any crew commits any wrong upon them, and they cannot be revenged upon the aggressors themselves, they will upon the next ship that comes there, believing one common head suffers or bears the loss. This is the reason, generally, that innocent crews have been murdered so cruelly by them, without any seeming provocation.The ship entered the harbor and dropped her anchor. The boats came to land with the captain and others. At first sight I thought I recognized in the person of the captain, a friend of other days. This idea was strengthened much by hearing the crew address him as "Capt. Coleman."I immediately stepped up and asked him if he ever sailed in the brig Henry. He assured me he had. I then, looking him steadily in the eye, asked, "do you know me, sir?" Looking at me a moment steadily, he said, "yes, Bill! though your sunburnt countenance and savage connections almost bid defiance to the recognition." How I came there in that horrible place, with that outlandish crew, and what I could be doing, exceedingly puzzled him.I chatted with him some time. The king noticing a spirit of familiarity existing with us, stood by with more than common watchfulness, and at every few words, would say,yahah? (what says he?) I told him at each inquiry that he wanted hogs and water, or in some other way quieted him.Finding it useless to attempt a conversation at that time, he went back to the ship and sent two rafts of casks to the shore for water. These I bargained withthe natives to fill for him, paying them in whales' teeth, tobacco, &c. He also purchased a quantity of hogs, fruit, &c., of the natives, always paying them as much certainly, as he promised to do. Besides, he made them many presents of small, and to him, valueless articles, though they esteemed them very highly. This won their affections completely, and he was allowed to go where and when he pleased. By this means we were enabled to get together often and form a plan by which he could assist me in getting away, which was to go on board as the land breeze sprang up. I told him repeatedly of the sad consequences that would most assuredly follow to himself and crew, as well as to me, should we be detected in the act. But that did not in the least degree deter him from making the attempt. What a noble contrast between this captain, who was willing to run the risk of his life, and the lives of his noble crew, to assist me to escape, and the heartless wretch of the Pocahontas, who refused to let me have any thing unless I would pay him in American currency, which he well knew I had not; at the same time he was in want of hogs, &c., which I could furnish him with, and which he chose rather to obtain from the simple natives with a piece of old valueless hoop iron; thus depriving me of useful articles which my necessities required.The afternoon previous to the departure of the ship, the captain spent on shore with us, and when he left to go on board I shook hands with him, as if never to see him again, telling him to cause a statement of our situation to be made to our friends, which he promised to do.He went to his ship—manned the windlass—hoveshort the cable and mast-headed the top-sail yard. The natives seeing it, askedyahah hannah hannah moro, (or, what are they doing there?) I told them they were heaving short and getting ready to leave the harbor. The king asked me then if I wished to leave the island and go with them. I with an outburst of laughter, as if perfectly astonished at the question, said loudly, I did not. I was then asked why. I referred him to my wife and the happy manner in which I lived. At this he seemed greatly delighted.Often have I heard it asserted that falsehoods were never justifiable, and that the truth is best in all cases. Should those who most loudly proclaim such views, be thus situated, I fear their theory and practice would differ very much. Never have I met a man, I think, who would under those circumstances adhere strictly to the truth, and thereby lose his opportunity of getting away.We walked away to my hut where the king and second chief sat and chatted with me till the evening was far advanced. They went to their homes perfectly satisfied that I did not wish to go, at least, I thought so, and I was certain I weighed each word and look well. I went to bed and had a lengthy talk with my wife about the ship's leaving the shore and of my unwillingness to go. I remained talking till near midnight, when feigning sickness I got up and walked out.On the beach I found an old native, who seemed somewhat surprised at my presence, as well as I at his, for I feared a watch was kept. Chatting with him awhile, I was satisfied all things were right. Together we went back to the huts. His being first, I saw him go in,when I went home, and as the land breeze had not yet sprung up, went to bed. I lay a short time in the highest state of excitement, when I heard a rustling in the trees, which I knew was a signal for me to start.I lay some moments scarce able to raise myself, for fear had taken fast hold of me,—I knew not but some wiley native had discovered something in me which excited them and a watch was kept. If such were really the case, most horrible would be its results.I was half inclined to abandon the project. Knowing that if this most favorable opportunity passed I might not see another, hope bade me make the trial.I was soon upon the beach, shoved off a canoe, and was getting in when I found there were no paddles. For a moment I gave up the idea, when recollecting that I had seen some broken ones a few days previous, lying behind an uninhabited hut, thither I repaired, greatly fearing the dogs would give the alarm; I obtained the paddles and was again at the boat.No person can form any idea of the wretchedness of my situation, as I looked around to see if danger was near.The moon which had before shone brightly, had retired behind the bluff as if unwilling to bear witness to the affair. I soon reached the ship, seized hold of the ropes, which hang over the ship's side for the purpose, and putting my shoulders under the main chains, sank my canoe, and jumped on board, not daring to look behind lest I should find myself pursued.As was previously arranged, there was but one man on board who saw me, who was Mr. Bliffin, the mate, the others being below, knowing nothing of my beingthere, so that should the natives miss me and come on board, they could not betray me by any emotions of fear.Without speaking to Mr. Bliffin I went immediately to the captain's room, from thence I secreted myself in the run or after part of the vessel, under a pile of rubbish.The sailors were called and every effort made to quit the harbor immediately. We had scarcely moved from her berth, when by the noise and bustle about the ship, I was satisfied the natives were aboard. Soon I heard them nearing me, and could distinctly distinguish their voices. Among them was the first chief who said, "let us be off, for he is not here; if he had been they would not have let us looked."The captain pretended not to understand them when they came to the ship, and it was a long time before he could, at the same time he was crowding all sail and getting as far out as possible. Believing I was not there, they left the ship and paddled for the shore. Soon as they had gone the captain called me from my hiding place and took me on deck, to the great astonishment of the crew.There were about forty came on board. Great was the delight with which I looked on them as they were gaining the shore; and while I was overjoyed at my own escape, I could not but look back upon the wretchedness and misery of Noyce, who was left behind entirely ignorant of what had become of me.Whether I was captured and killed by some one who might have an ill will towards me, or had escaped on board the ship, were alike matters of consideration withhim, for I had left him entirely ignorant of my plans, as I knew I must in order to effect my own escape.Many who may favor me with reading my simple narrative will no doubt censure me for so doing, but should they be situated as I was, knowing the utter impossibility for both to escape, they would, I think, find the love of self, naturally strong as it is in man, pointing them to the same course I pursued. To go and leave him was indeed painful in the extreme, but had he been thus favored by the visit of a friend who was willing to run the risk of his life in taking him away, and he had thus effected his escape, I think I could only have thought him acting right, however much I might deplore my loss.The first kind offer of the captain as I came on board was to give me clothes to cover my nakedness. Awkward, indeed, I felt as well as acted, when clothed again, having been naked eighteen months. And as I tasted of the salt meats and other articles found on ship board, cooked so different from what I had been accustomed to so long, I could scarcely eat them.CHAPTER X.Description of the Whale Fishery. Being again on board a whale ship, I propose giving my readers a brief description of the Whale, and of the manner of capturing them.There are a number of varieties of whales; the three principal of which are the common Greenland, or what sailors call the right whale, the "razorback" or "finner;" and, thirdly, the cachelot or sperm whale. These three varieties do not differ very essentially in their general structure, though each has its peculiarities. The common full grown right whale varies in length from fifty to seventy feet. Many exaggerated notions are held respecting the size of the whale. Writers of standard works of history have stated that they were frequently found an hundred and fifty or sixty feet in length; and that they had been found even of the extreme length of two hundred and fifty feet. But such is not the fact; they seldom will exceed the length above stated, and measure round the body, directly behind the head, from thirty to forty feet. The head is of great size, and occupies one third of the whole extent from snout to tail. The greatest circumference of the body is just back of the head, whence it tapers sharply away towards the tail. The mouth of the whale is extremely large and long, and will admit, when opened wide, a whaleboat with its crew, if placed crosswise of the jaw,—caseshave been known where the whole length of a boat has thus been taken in. The animal has no fin upon the back, and the two side fins are five or six feet broad, and nine or ten feet in length. The tail or "flukes," as the seamen term it, is some twenty-five feet broad, in the shape of a crescent, and is appended horizontally. This is a dangerous and powerful instrument with which the whale often deals destruction to men and boats, or whatever chances to be in the way during what the sailors term her "flurry," or when she is in the agonies of death. Boats are frequently thrown high into the air, and broken into ten thousand pieces by a stroke from the whale's "flukes." The eyes of the whale are not larger than those of an ox,—the color of the body is mainly black; the under part of the head and abdomen partly white, and partly of a speckled gray. The two spout-holes of the "right" whale are on the top of the head, and descend perpendicular into it for the length of twelve inches or so to the windpipe. The throat is quite small; an inch and a half is the extreme diameter of the gullet in the largest right whales. The food of these whales is, of course, of a very minute nature; they feed upon a multitude of smaller inhabitants of the ocean; and the mouth is provided with a remarkable apparatus, composed of numerous whale-bones extending from the centre of the arch to the lips, tapering away into mere bristles, and forming a kind of fringe, by which means the small particles of food are retained; not so with the sperm whale; they are distinguished by having teeth in the lower jaw, and but one spout-hole on the upper part of the snout. The sperm whale attains to a great size; sometimes reachingthe length of eighty feet; the head is of enormous bulk, and ends abruptly in front. It has a small hump like a camel on the back; and the side fins are also of small size; they generally have from forty to fifty teeth which fit into cavities in the upper jaw.In this whale the gullet is large enough to admit a man; and the food is large fish, principally "squid." A fine oil is obtained from the head of the sperm whale called spermaceti, and from its intestines ambergris. The sperm whale's spout can be seen at the distance of three miles, and is easily distinguished. This whale does not produce as much oil as the other variety, but it is much more valuable; they fight fiercely among themselves, locking jaws with one another, and exerting themselves in the most powerful manner; but they do not attack a boat or man, and are easily frightened away. They are fond of their young, and of one another, and will commonly remain near to a wounded companion. They have the ability, on noticing any object, to communicate intelligence to their companions four or five miles—though the manner in which this is done remains a secret. It is often seen to leap entirely out of water for the purpose, as is supposed, to rid themselves of crabs and sucking-fish which are fond of fastening upon their bodies. This act is termed by the sailors "breaching." The swordfish and others frequently attack the whale with the utmost audacity.I have given my readers a brief account of some of the general features and peculiarities of the whale; and I shall now proceed to describe briefly the manner of catching them. No species of fishing can compare in interest with the whale-fishery. The magnitude of theobject of the chase, and the perilous character of the seas which it peculiarly frequents, are features which prominently distinguish the profession of the whale-fisher from all similar pursuits. Before proceeding to the account of capturing one of these monsters, I will speak of the whaleboat and its appurtenances used for the purpose.The whaleboat is from twenty-two to thirty feet in length, and is provided with five or six oars. It is so formed as to float lightly on the water, move with speed, and turn easily round. The best are composed of straight, one-half inch cedar boards, ruppled and bent to the required shape, by which means their elasticity is greatly increased—the rapid and dangerous movements of the whale render these various qualities indispensable. The principal weapons with which the whale-fishery are supplied are the harpoon and lance. The harpoon is an instrument about three feet long, composed of iron, and consists of three conjoined parts—the socket, shank, and withers or barbs. Much attention is paid to the manufacture of the shank of the harpoon because on its flexibility the retention of a harpooned whale depends. If the shank should break during the plunges of the whale, the animal is lost. The lance is a more simple instrument; it is about ten feet long, and has a sharp flat point or tongue of steel seven inches long. This instrument and the harpoon, together with lines and boat, are all the apparatus actually necessary for capturing a whale.On the ship reaching the fishing ground, preparations are immediately made for commencing the business of capture. Three or four boats are always kept suspendedfrom the cranes, by the side of the ship, in such a position that they can be lowered into the water with their complement of men and the whole necessary apparatus, in the space of one minute.Previously to this time the harpoons and line have been got in order. The socket of the harpoon is furnished with a stock or handle, six or eight feet long, and fastened in its place by means of a splice of strong rope called a foreganger. To this is attached five or six fathoms of line, called the stray line; and this is connected with the other lines of the boat, neatly coiled up in each boat, and about 4300 feet of rope, made of the best hemp, and about two and a half inches in circumference. A hatchet, bucket, and a few other articles, are put into the boat.When on the fishing ground, a man is kept constantly at the mast-head on the look out for whales, and to give the notice to the men on deck of the appearance of one upon the surface—which he does by crying out "there she blows," or "there she spouts," which is responded to by the captain on deck, who inquires "where away." The direction being ascertained, one or more of the boats are lowered, manned by the respective crews of each to row out, and if necessary give chase to the whale—every boat eager to reach him first. There is much competition between the different boats to see which shall first "fasten," or get a harpoon into the whale; and this is sometimes carried to such extreme length, that the unfortunate rear boat, seeing no chance of success themselves, will throw every obstacle in the way of the other to prevent their securing the whale; and sometimes go so far even as to purposelyfrighten the whale away—thus seriously injuring the interest of the owners as well as the whole crew. But this is not allowed in well disciplined ships; for there the officer who goes in each boat is required to guard against it.The boats pull on, and as they approach the whale they see him spouting more slowly. This is a signal that he is soon going down, and for them to hasten if they would secure him. The successful boat shoots alongside. "Peak your oar!" exclaims the officer to the harpooner—the order is obeyed. "Stand up," continues the officer; and the glistening harpoon is seen above the head of the harpooner, who instantly darts it with unerring force and aim, and it is buried deeply in the side of the gigantic creature. "Stern all," cries the master, and every man bends his whole strength to the oar, and the boat is rapidly backed from the whale's side. Now the pained whale plunges, and lashes the sea in a most terrific manner—the noise of which may be heard for miles. Suddenly he disappears, drawing the line out rapidly after him; many hundred fathoms are run out before the whale again makes his appearance on the surface, which he generally does somewhere in the vicinity, in a very much exhausted state, owing to the loss of blood, and his violent exertions to escape the harpoon by plunging furiously to the depths of the sea. He is usually absent about the space of thirty minutes before he rises again to the surface, and then the boat is run rapidly up to him, and the headsman buries his lance in the vitals of the trembling monster. He is now made desperately furious,—the lance is again driven into his side; his motions becomewild and irregular; and, after what is called the mortal flurry, he turns over on his side, and dies. The Leviathan of the deep is conquered! He is now towed to the ship, and there firmly secured by ropes. Then comes the process of what whalemen call "Cutting in," which is the separating and securing the fat or blubber of the whale. It is effected in the following manner:The man appointed for the purpose, with stockings on his feet to prevent from slipping, leaps upon the body, and, secures a piece of about a foot and a half wide, which has been flayed up near the head, to a heavy purchase which is worked in board, men standing on deck with blubber knives, cut it while others work away at the purchase which rolls the body over as the blubber is removed. It is taken on deck, and cut in pieces fit for the pots, when it is tried out, and put in casks. After the bone has been secured, the carcase is allowed to sink.CHAPTER XI.Speak several vessels. Massacre at Keppell's Island. Touch at the Duke of York's Island. Find a tomb. Electrical eel. Conduct of a negro, who makes much sport. Land Lobster. Land at Cohannah. Improper conduct of the captain. A storm off Hawaii. Anchor at Honolulu. Its description. Scenes on shore. Sports of the surf. Arrival at Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Scenes on shore. Cruise about the different islands. Proposed mutiny. The author leaves the ship.We spoke the Aramata, of New London, which was then steering for the Marquesas, where she was intending to get water and provisions. They informed us of the recent massacre of the whole crew except a boy, of an English ship at Keppell's Island. The Aramata touched there for wood and water, and after dropping the anchor lowered away and pulled for the shore; when they came near the beach their landing was prohibited. The beach was filled with natives, who were armed with spears and clubs which they brandished about, going through with every warlike gesture. They signified to them their reception would be far from a pleasant one.They put back to the ship, but still remained in the harbor, it being so near night. Soon the boy who was saved from the massacre came upon the beach and cautioned them about the natives, for they were determined to kill every person who should land there.He was then suddenly snatched away by the natives.From what they could learn from the boy, they were induced to be on their guard. About midnight a number of canoes were seen to pull towards them. All hands were called, and arms put in readiness. As they came stealthily along and had almost reached the vessel, they gave them the contents of their six guns and two pistols, which sent them yelling towards the shore. This single shot served their entire defeat.We parted with the Aramata, being unwilling to return to the Marquesas with them.About a week after, we spoke the bark James Calvin, of London, returning from Keppell's Island, with the boy. Capt. Coleman lowered away his boat with its full complement of men, harpoons, lines and lances, and went on board of her, while the mate of the James Calvin, with his boat, crew, and apparatus, came on board our ship. This is the way ships usually meet at sea. From them we learned the full particulars of the massacre.Soon as she heard of it she resolved to go to the island, and at all hazards take the boy away. As they entered the harbor several of the natives came to the ship; they suffered them to go aboard, treated them well, gave them many presents, which won their good feelings. As they were about leaving, the captain told them, (through a native of the Sandwich Islands who could talk with them,) that the king of the Sandwich Islands had sent many presents to their king, which he could get by coming on board the next day. The next morning the king came on board, and, as was desired, the boy was brought with him, who was among the first who came. Soon as the boy was fairly on board, thecrew rushed upon the unsuspecting natives, and drove what few had come on board over into the sea. Bearing full, they left the harbor.The boy's story was simply as follows:The ship came into the harbor, where she lay, the captain thinking to go on shore the next morning.—About midnight the natives came upon it in so still a manner, that the watch upon deck did not hear them. Those they killed, and as the others attempted to come above they were killed also. The whole crew except six men and the boy were killed on board; these were taken on shore, and the men killed.The boy was saved by an old woman who took a great liking to him. The bodies of those killed on board were brought on shore, and eaten with the others. All articles of value were taken off, and the ship burned.Parting with the James Calvin, we stood for the Duke of York's Island, taking on our way one small whale and three black fish.Arriving at the island, we lowered away and went on shore, taking our guns with us. We shot many birds of different kinds, among them was one called a Mingo, a large and beautiful bird; the back and top of his wings were a dark gray, the under part of the body and wings were a bright red. While sailing over our heads he presented a most beautiful appearance.We saw no marks of cultivation whatever upon the island, there being nothing but a long, low, sandy beach, with here and there a grove of cocoa-nuts and palm trees. We rowed around two or three miles, and found a little harbor with a beautiful white coral beach. A short distance from the shore we found a mound, whichwas evidently the resting-place of some person whom Fate appointed to die at that desolate place.This was made by laying a wall of stone about seven feet long and two wide, being about fifteen inches high. The stones were laid very closely together, so as to keep out the land lobsters and crabs that swarmed the island.On the wall the coffin, or box, was placed and arched over with stone and wood with a kind of cement. The whole was nearly overgrown with moss.A negro belonging to the ship on coming to it, said he had dreamed three successive nights of finding a vast amount of money, and believed this to be the spot. He set about beating it down, but was driven from it.Our attention was aroused by the loud cries of one of the crew. When we arrived at the spot, we found him with an enormous land lobster, which he had attempted to catch, linked to his thumb so firmly as only to be removed by breaking the claw. These in shape resemble the water lobster, though much larger. Our friend did not attempt to "catch the Tartar" again. We took the lobster to the boat and tied him up, so that he would not run away. They run very fast, drawing their huge claws on the ground after them.Again we went a cruising, and came to a little cove about half a mile in length and about half a mile also in width, being nearly dry at low tide. One of the crew saw a large eel of a greenish color lying quietly in the mud. Thinking to have a little sport, he took a stick and gave him a blow, which was paid back with interest. The stick flew from his hands, and he yelled loud enough to be heard half a mile. He found this to be a large electrical eel, who was not to be trifled with.Other fish are seldom found within their haunts. They live imbedded in the mud until driven therefrom, when with all their venom they dart at the offender, or the first object that comes in their reach. The first blow of a large one would kill any of the human species. When in a state of weakness or nearly exhausted, the sensation produced is quite like that given by a galvanic battery or an electrical machine. They are often found to be from four to six feet long, and weigh from fourteen to twenty pounds. In some parts of South America, fording places are abandoned entirely in consequence of them, it being unsafe to ride through.When the horse or mule steps on them as they lie in the mud, they coil around the legs and against the body, and, with a succession of shocks, bring the poor animal down, and before he can recover from the shocks he is drowned. The rider being dismounted, quite likely falls a prey to some other one, who being fully charged soon puts an end to him.Finding the nature of the fish, some of the crew being bent upon having a little sport, went in the boat, got lances, spears, &c., and commenced an attack upon them. In this I did not join, finding more sport in watching them, than in contributing as dearly as some of them did for the amusement of the others.The negro could not forget his dreamy visions, and was most sanguine in his belief that the before-mentioned mound contained the object of his fancy.Thither he repaired with two or three of his shipmates, myself among the number, determined to be satisfied respecting it. He took a large stone and began pounding away at the cement, which was nearly ashard as the stone itself. Beating a hole through, he assiduously plied himself to pulling out the stones one after another, until he made a hole through to the rude box, whence escaped an odor quite unlike that emanating from a miser's chest. He being so intent upon his errand, would not now believe but it contained treasure for him, and again went to work; running his hand through the hole he had made, he pulled out a piece of a board which Decay had marked as her own, which now fully convinced him of the certainty of the contents.Exasperated at this he flew to the tomb, and would not have left one stone upon another had not we interfered and drove him away, when we replaced the stones as well as we could.We next went about securing a quantity of lobsters to take to sea with us. The negro seeing one run into a hole under the roots of a cocoa-nut tree, ran his hand in after him, but soon found he had also "caught a Tartar." He relinquished his hold, but not so with the lobster: he adhered closely after he was drawn from the hole. The negro jumped about, making wry faces and yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile. The bystanders were so much affected at his grimaces, that they indulged in a hearty laugh, and could not for a moment or two assist him in the least.To laugh at any being's calamity is by no means justifiable; but I think had the most sedate person witnessed the affair, his risibilities would have been affected to a considerable degree.We caught about forty and took them to the ship. The next morning none of them could be found; aftermuch searching we found them dispersed about the rigging, and for several days we found them in different parts of the vessel.I have often heard those better acquainted with their nature than I am, say, they climb the lofty cocoa-nut tree, pick the fruit, carry it out upon the ends of the limb over some rock, and drop it, thus getting at the meat. This I cannot assert as fact, for I never saw it; yet I have seen hundreds of them on trees; I have seen them take the nut in their claws and beat it on the stone, and crack the shell.Leaving the Duke of York's Island, we stood for Fanning's Island, which is of about the same description as the last-mentioned one.Here we cruised about a few days, went on shore, and found two huts that had the appearance of being recently occupied.From thence we stood for the Mulgrave's group, where we took three whales. After trying the oil, we went on shore on Cohannah Island, where there was but little indication of life. On going up a little creek we saw a smoke in the distance; seeing this I told the captain it was best to put back to the ship, for should they see the harpoons and lances in the boats, they would at once consider us as enemies, and would most likely attempt to murder us.He would not be persuaded to return, declaring he would land at all hazards, which was effected with great difficulty, on account of the surf which ran very high.The captain took his gun with him, saying he would shoot the first native he saw. We found several canoeshung up in the bushes. Again I begged of the captain to return. He turned upon me, calling me a coward. This epithet I was willing to bear, telling him if he knew as much of them as I did, he would rather be called a coward than be caught by them.Soon the loud war whoop rang in our ears. I told the captain he could then do as he pleased, but I was going to the boat, and started. I jumped into the boat and shoved off. The natives were rushing down to the beach, armed with clubs and spears. The captain was still quite reluctant about getting in. He drew up his gun ready for firing. This I remonstrated loudly against, but it did no good. He fired, wounding one of them in the legs, who fell upon the ground, yelling loudly, and taking up sand rubbed it on the wound. This to the Captain was much sport, but it would not be sport to the next unsuspecting crew that might touch there, who would without a doubt atone for his folly, for they would most assuredly be revenged.We spoke the bark Harriet, of London, on our way to the Barbadoes, which lie in about 8° 30m' north latitude, and about 175° west longitude. From them we procured a quantity of Plantain, bananas, and a few hogs.From thence we made the Sandwich islands, when to the windward of Hawaii, about 60 miles, we encountered one of the heaviest gales I was ever called upon to witness,—carrying our fore-top-mast away by the cap—main-top-gallant mast and yard, and springing our mizen mast-head. We put up the helm; squared away our main-yard; loosed, and set the fore-sail, to run to the leeward to get more sea room. Under this sail we ran very well, whilst running through the narrowsthat separate Hawaii from Mauli, at the distance of thirty miles.There was a heavy and irregular sea which pooped the ship, and nearly proved her entire ruin. Clearing the deck of water-casks; sweeping the binnacle, which contained the compass, from the deck; tearing the bulwarks from their stations; breaking the rudder at the water's edge, and nearly killing the man at the helm. Those on deck, seeing the wave as it arose and was sweeping towards them, caught hold of the rigging, and thereby saved themselves probably from a watery grave.In this condition we lay, or rather drifted, at the mercy of the waves, three days. When the gale abated, we were about a hundred miles to the southward of the group. We then rigged a jury, or temporary rudder, made from an old spar, which answered our purpose.The wind shifting to the southward, we stood nearly before it, running under reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail; with the greatest care, we were enabled to make Honolulu, and came to anchor about three miles from the town. When all was snug, the boat was manned for shore, where were several whale vessels lying, from which twenty boats were manned to assist us in towing the ship into the harbor where she was repaired.There is a coral reef which extends along the harbor about a mile, leaving only a narrow passage of about one hundred feet for ships to pass. Ships are generally obliged to be towed into the harbor, in consequence of the high points which tower high, and becalm them.At the head of the channel is Diamond head or hill, which is the principle point on the south side of theisland. "This is the crater of an extinguished volcano—a bare shell of a mountain whose bowels have been exhausted by fire. It is of circular form, many miles in circumference, and rises almost perpendicular several hundred feet. Its sides every where look like seared walls; and are fluted and furrowed from top to bottom by the washings of water-courses, as if by artificial workmanship. They are also surmounted in many places by a kind of moulding, of equally singular formation; and again by blocks and piles of jagged lava, having in their elevation the appearance of the parapets and battlements of a dilapidated castle." Between this crater, and the town of Honolulu, which is about three miles distant, lies the neat little valley or plain of Waikiki. The road leading to Honolulu is on both sides lined with cocoa-nut trees, under which, at intervals of only a few rods, are refreshment stations, which are well supplied with billiard and card tables, and every means of dissipation. Dram houses are also very frequent. A more beautiful spot could not be selected than that leading to Honolulu. Beyond Honolulu, to the west, lies a wide extent of open country under a fine state of cultivation.While at Honolulu, I witnessed the execution of twelve natives for mutiny on board a pearl trader, when off Fanning's island, whither they resorted after the affair, and erected two huts which I have spoken of as having seen at that place.One day, on shore, we saw four men drawing sand in hand-carts—each man having a native to guard or drive him. Upon inquiry, we were told they belonged to the ship Kingston of Nantucket; and, for some slightdifficulty with the master, (Capt. Coffin,) they were complained of to Jones, the consul, who threw them into irons, and subject to six lashes each morning, and to draw sand during the day. This treatment was to continue during the stay of the ship; and did until the arrival of the Potomac, Commodore Downs, who instantly released them, most severely reprimanding both the Captain and Mr. Jones.The men being released went on board the Potomac, and some of her men went with Capt. Coffin. As they went on board, they told the Captain it was their intention to throw him and his officers overboard, if they did not use them well. A few days after, the Commodore went on board the Kingston to see how Coffin liked his new men. He told him he would most assuredly have trouble unless he treated them well. He also said he expected to hear from that ship before long, meaning there would, in his opinion, be trouble. Coffin was considered a bad man, being overbearing and very irritable with his crew. Once he confined a man below, and gave him nothing to eat for several days but saw-dust and molasses.When the Potomac left the harbor, she was towed by a number of boats within the influence of the sea breeze, when, giving three cheers which were answered, she made sail, and was soon out of sight. On our return to the harbor, some thought to try the surf, which is sometimes performed in canoes, but usually on what is termed a surf-board, which is an article of private property among the higher classes, both male and female, and to some extent among the common people. This is a board of six or eight feet in length, and from fifteento twenty inches wide, rounded down to an edge; the whole surface being made very smooth.With this under the arm, they repair to the water, and swim into the surf. As they meet a roller, as it is called, or wave, they plunge beneath, and let it pass over. Thus they proceed to any desired distance; sometimes to half a mile out into the open sea, and wait the approach of a heavy swell, when they throw themselves upon the board with the face downwards, having the head and body elevated above the board, and headed for the shore. They skillfully keep themselves upon the swell with their feet and arms, and are borne with the greatest velocity upon its foaming crest, with their heads alone visible above the foam. As they near the shore, they usually slip from the board, to prevent being thrown upon the sand by the surf. This is repeated for hours in succession, and hundreds may many times be seen together riding upon the waves, when they break high above the coral reefs. Four or five of the boats in trying it upset, and the men were thrown upon the reef, and much bruised.We left the harbor of Honolulu about the first of August, 1837, bound for the coast of California.Arriving at Point Conception, we lowered away for the shore, taking three guns with us, where we had much sport shooting deer, rabbits, and squirrels; also some ducks. Getting a supply of provisions we squared our yards, and stood down the coast; touched at Gaudaloupe, an uninhabited island, where we took three seal. This island is much visited by sealers, in the sealing season, where they are taken in great quantities.On our passage from thence found our oil leaking very badly indeed.Shaped our course for Sir Francis Drake's bay for cooperage. On arriving at the supposed place, found nothing but a high iron bound coast, with no possible opening or harbor. The entire crew were strangers on those shores, and knew not the exact position of the harbor. Seeing a small narrow opening in the rocks, we fancied it might lead to the harbor; but it being so near night did not think it prudent to attempt a passage that night. Lay off and on that night, and in the morning felt our way into the harbor, which we found to be a very fine one indeed, being completely land-locked, and large enough for one hundred sail of ships to lie at a time in perfect safety.All fell to securing the oil, which occupied the best part of two days. After the oil was again stowed, and the ship cleaned up, we were allowed liberty on shore, two at a time, furnished with guns and ammunition; shot a great number of penguins and pelicans, which were very tame, allowing us to get quite near them. At one time, we saw four animals of the wolf species, though much smaller than those of the more northern regions. They were standing at our usual place of landing, picking the meat from the shells with which the rocks abound, and known as the California shell.Not liking to land among them, we lay at our oars, making a great noise; this did not intimidate them in the least. Firing at them we next thought we would try; wounded one of them, at whom the others flew, and despatched him in a few moments. The other gun was soon in readiness. We fired and killed two; thefourth thinking then it was high time to be off, ran for the mountains with great speed. Landing, we took the bodies of the wolves, and laid them by for safety until we should return to the ship. We went into the mountains, shot at and wounded several more, but could not get the bodies. Saw an enormous black bird perched upon a high cliff. We crawled around about to where he sat when we first saw him; when we got there he had anticipated our movements, and removed to a point still higher. Saw several smaller ones, but were not near enough to fire.It being now near night, we thought we would take a nearer cut to get to the ship, and accordingly started down the cliff. Coming to an almost perpendicular place, of some ten or fifteen feet, we questioned some time whether it was best to jump or go around by another path. Concluding to jump, we fired our guns to prevent any accident therefrom. The other threw down his gun, and slid after it in safety. I followed, but was not so fortunate; falling heels over head, I landed in a bunch of prickly pears. Having on nothing but thin clothes, which were no safeguard at all, I was filled, from head to foot, with those sharp and piercing thorns. From them I suffered very much for a great length of time. Many of the prickles the sailors picked out of me, the others remained until they caused a sore, and with the matter passed off. On a small island, at the entrance of the harbor which we went into, was the grave of an English Captain, who was murdered by one of his crew, a Portuguese, in 1830. The officers of the ship threw a lance at him, and killed him; he was buried at low water mark without coffin or shroud.On the opposite side of the island we saw a number of sea-elephants, which are taken for their oil, sometimes.Spending three weeks at Sir F. Drake's bay, we hoisted anchor and sailed down the coast, shortening sail and heaving the ship to nights, so as not to pass over the ground uselessly. Some difficulty arose between the officers and crew, which occasioned many hard words. A plot was laid with the crew to murder the officers, run the vessel into some island and abandon her. I was counted as of them, but under no circumstances could I have been induced to join them in placing the finger of harm upon Capt. Coleman. Too nobly had he acquitted himself in my favor, when upon the island a captive among the cannibals.They were extremely impatient for the signal for action to be given, but I kept them in check, promising them a more favorable moment. Thus I held them till their anger had somewhat died away, and we were at Cape St. Lucas. Soon as the anchor was let go and the sails furled, I went to the captain and demanded my pay, also to be put on shore. This astonished him greatly, as all things had passed pleasantly.As an explanation of the affair, I simply told him there was a plot laid, which put in force, would not result in his favor, and advised him to be on his guard, lest in a single moment all would be lost. For a moment he hesitated about giving me my discharge, meaning to retain me, but that he could not do, for I had not signed the ship's papers. He offered me twenty dollars if I would tell him of the plot and those concerned, which I would not do, knowing I had already disclosed enough for him to save himself from all harm with proper care.
CHAPTER IX.A visit from the Cohaphas. Our King wishes to learn the use of the gun. Abandons the idea. Arrival of Captain Fisher. His inhumanity. Is driven from the land. Manner of fishing. Attempt to cultivate tobacco. Efficacy of the tabu law. A missionary ship arrives. Meetings are held. Unbelief of the natives. Narrow escape of the author. Conduct of Mr. Daylia. He is driven from the island. Another sail approaches. Recognition of the Captain. His conduct. Plan of escape. The king is deceived. The author leaves the island. Secretes himself. Is missed. His unpleasant situation. Joy at seeing the natives leave the ship. Reflections.A few days after, a number of the Cohaphas visited our valley, expressing a strong desire to see the Tehoury and their Pobohe. Among them was the celebrated chief Cappayoho, who was still lame from the wound he had received from our slugs. When we came before him, he looked upon us with perfect astonishment, turned us around again and again, asking many questions respecting ourselves, our country, and the use of our pobohe. A large hog was brought in and roasted, and a sumptuous feast given, of which all partook, forgetting all feelings of enmity.One day our king expressed a strong desire to learn the use of the gun, and asked me to show him. Not liking the idea of it, being fearful we should not only lose the gun, but the reputation we then sustained from our success with it, I resolved to fix him so that hewould abandon the thought of it. I accordingly put in a powerful charge, and gave him the gun. He with great confidence brought it to his shoulder, and discharged it. So powerful was it that it threw him upon the ground with great force. He sprang to his feet, exclaiming in great rage—"Kekeno tehoury!" I assured him he did not hold it right, and then loaded it for myself and discharged it without harm. That served to convince him. He declared he would never touch the thing again, and did not during my stay there.The war having closed, left us without any particular way of spending our time, except getting our supply of fruits for living; this done, time passed heavily. Often we would retire to the groves or some secluded spot, where, shut out from the world as it were, we would sing some lively song, which would call to our minds most vividly the scenes of other days. Home, with all its allurements, would rush before us, and our untold grief could scarcely be borne. Suddenly some native would come upon us, perhaps when we were weeping, when we would feign that degree of contentedness which made them believe we were truly so.At length the cry ofmoco nui, a large ship, resounded through the valley. This we fancied was the time for our deliverance from this place. She stood abreast the harbor, taking in her light sails; the boats were lowered and came towards the shore; when within hailing distance they asked for permission to land. This the king, through me, granted. Returning to the ship, they stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The females swam to the ship, and, before the sails could be furled, the decks were literally full of them.She proved to be the ship Pocahontas, Capt. Fisher, of Sag Harbor. The captain coming on shore, I acquainted him with our situation, and requested his interference in our behalf. He, with a great degree of indifference, offered to take us away if we would get the king's full consent; this he knew we could not do. I then asked him for clothing? His reply was:"I do not carry clothes around for such miserable fellows as you are;" and furthermore, he had none except those needed for the use of the ship's crew; yet he offered to sell me some, provided I would pay him in American currency. I could only offer him the usual commodity of the island—hogs, &c. These, he said, he could buy of the natives with a few scraps of old iron.His casks were already on shore for water, and he was trying to get the natives to fill them. I went to the king and told him he was a kekeno tehoury, (bad white man,) and that he was going to get water and hogs without pay, and advised him to drive them from the harbor. The king at this became greatly enraged, and called together the tribe, or many of them, ordered Capt. Fisher to leave the island immediately, and not to land their boats again.The casks were rolled into the water, the natives followed up closely with clubs and spears, ready to force them away, should they offer resistance or in any way retard their operations. The next morning they weighed anchor and left our harbor, without being able to get either water or provisions.As fishing was one of the ways in which we spentour time, I purpose here giving an account of the manner in which fish are caught:When a school of porpoises enter the harbor, notice is given to the tribe, who, armed with stones, immediately resort to the water; some on each side rush into the water, beating the stones together beneath the surface. The porpoises becoming frightened, flee before their pursuers and are driven upon the beach, where they are killed by the old men and boys with clubs.—They are then taken to their huts, and hung up by a cord of bark run through the tail. From these they daily feast, until they rot and fall from their hanging place.Smaller fish are taken by nets, made of the cords of bark. These nets are about twenty feet across the top or mouth; they are sunk below the water's surface by stones placed in the bottom and attached to several boats, stationed at regular points about, by cords. The natives then swim around on all sides, and at a given signal swim towards the boats, beating stones together. The fish frightened on all sides, flee to the least dangerous point, which is in the vicinity of the net; the net is then raised to the surface, oftentimes catching a barrel or two at a time. The females seldom join in catching fish, and never unless by special permission.Finding a plant much resembling tobacco, I thought I would try to cultivate it, hoping to improve it, and accordingly set out a number of plants. These the hogs destroyed. When I supplied their place, I bargained with a native to build a stone wall around the patch, which was about fifteen feet square, for a half head of tobacco. When the wall was done I paid him. Heseemed not altogether satisfied with the bargain; he left the hut and went directly to the spot and tore the wall down. I informed the king, hoping he would make him rebuild it. The king seized his club and ran every foot to the house in which he lived. As he with the other members of the family were seated at their evening repast, he rushed in and gave him a heavy blow with the club, completely severing the head in twain, and the brains and blood flew around upon those who sat with him. The king then ordered his brother to take the body and put it in a certain hole in the rocks, where the tide as it ebbed and flows would wash it. Had I supposed such would have been the case, I should not have informed the king of him.My wife knowing the treachery of the tribe, also hearing their threats, put me on my guard.Several times they attempted me harm, but I evaded them.One night while we were quietly reposing on our beds of leaves, with the amer nut light burning by my side, a spear was forced through the side of the hut and lodged within a few inches of my body. I sprang to my feet, put out my light, and remained on the watch the remainder of the night.The next morning I carried the spear to the king, who called the tribe together, and holding up the spear, called upon the owner to come for it; but no one appeared. Then in the presence of the whole tribe he put me and my household under thetabulaw, which effectually shielded me from all harm. However great their anger or the desire to kill me might have been, none dare lay the finger of harm upon me. Thus to theirheathenish superstition I owed my life, for such was their anger that no law save that would have deterred them from reeking their vengeance upon me.This however did not heal the wound, or cause the wave of forgetfulness to sweep over the affair, as there was always, during my stay on the island, a sort of hatred existing with the members of that family toward me, though they dare not manifest it.Again a heavy sail was seen approaching our shores. We dare not look forward to an opportunity of escape, so often had we been doomed to disappointment.As she came into the harbor and dropped her anchor, we thought we could notice less confusion than usually attended ships on coming to anchor.The king requested Noyce and myself to go with him to the ship. He had never before allowed us to do that.On reaching the ship we crawled up her sides, and jumped over the bulwark, when we found ourselves, naked as when born, before two or three English ladies. We instantly jumped overboard, seized a canoe and pulled for the shore, when, Adam-like, we procured leaves and made aprons for ourselves. This proved a Missionary ship, sent from Otaheite, under the direction of an English missionary, named Daylia, who had long resided there, to establish a station, which he intended leaving in charge of two gentlemen, Messrs. Bingham and Morris, who with their wives had come thither for that purpose.Soon Mr. Daylia, Mr. Bingham and the captain came upon the shore, and after learning the reason of our being there, &c., inquired of the general character of thenatives, and of our views of the proposed idea of establishing a station there. Knowing as we did of the hatred with which they were accustomed to look upon all not belonging to their own tribe, especially should they differ from them, we said much to dissuade them from the attempt. Perhaps however we were influenced more by feelings of selfishness, which might arise from the nature of our situation among them, than otherwise. And in such a light it was viewed by Mr. Daylia, who reprimanded me in a manner not at all becoming the dignity of his station. From that moment Mr. Daylia looked upon me as upon a person bearing his dislike, not to say hatred.Notwithstanding our efforts to have them relinquish the idea of remaining, they moved some of their effects on shore, among them were a bull and cow, without permission, and took possession of an uninhabited hut near the tabu ground.This greatly incensed the king against them, and had I not interfered, he would have driven, not only the animals, but the people from his shores entirely. At any rate he would not have the animals there, and ordered them removed immediately, or he would kill them. They were accordingly taken to the ships again.They brought the females on shore and commenced building a house on the tabu ground; the king watching every movement, forbid their proceeding, and asked them by what authority they entered upon his consecrated grounds. Mr. Daylia replied, "By the Lord's authority." The king significantly said the Lord had nothing to do with the tabu ground, and again forbid their building there.They persisting in staying, the king told them they might do so while they remained at peace with the other tribes, but should a war break out, they would be tattooed, or driven from the land.Meetings were held each day, which Noyce and myself generally attended, at the request of the missionaries, as an example to the natives.The Otaheitean and Marquisian languages are so nearly alike they could converse without an interpreter.Daylia, in one of his meetings, said much about the good land and a bad land, telling them if they would be good and pray they would go to the good land, when they died. This he explained in a manner suited to their understanding. One of the chiefs jumped up and asked if the missionary who died at Nukuhivah (an English missionary who died about two years before) had gone to that good land. Mr. Daylia assured them he had, when, unwilling to believe it, they sent four men to that island, (about fifty miles) to get some of the bones. At the expiration of five or six days they returned, bringing bones with them; and at the next meeting, when Daylia was again telling of the good land, they set up a shouting, calling him a liar and showed him the bones. They told him he had been driven from his own land and had come to live with them, and he might stop preaching about his good land and his bad land, for they would not believe him. In vain were his remonstrances with them. They told him if he would climb a lofty cocoa-nut tree, which stood near, and jump among the rocks unhurt, they would believe him.Still he held his meetings, but not with any degree ofpleasantness, for the natives were as likely to set up a war dance as any thing else.This was imputed to me by Mr. Daylia, who threatened to send me to England and have me severely punished. His threats I did not heed very much, though I should have been extremely glad to have been sent there.One morning, at an early hour, going as usual to bathe, I met a servant of Mr. Daylia, who was a native of Otaheite, with an axe upon his shoulder. Having before been on good terms with him, I smilingly passed the compliment of the morning, (Kaoha, good morning) and was passing on. Accidentally turning my eye, I saw the axe uplifted, and aimed at my head. I fell upon my knees and evaded the blow. With earnestness I sprang and caught it, having one hand at the head and the other at the end of the helve, before he could again raise it.Pulling hard as if to get possession of it, at the same time wrestling about, I brought the edge towards him, he also pulling with his might in endeavoring to hold it, when I suddenly relaxed my hold, still holding on the handle, drove the edge into his face, running obliquely across the nose. This was repeated twice, when he fell yelling most lustily.His cries brought the missionary and many of the natives, with the king and second chief, to the spot.I told Daylia if that, with the treatment he had given me, was an illustration of his preaching, he had better stay at home than go to the heathen, professedly to preach peace and salvation, while he practiced such horrid digressions.The servant declared he was doing his master's bidding. This was stoutly contradicted by Daylia. Still I was led by the former friendship which had existed between us, and the previous conduct of Daylia, to believe the statement of the servant in preference to that of his.The king then ordered them to leave the island that day or he would kill them all. Daylia taking up a little child of one of the missionaries, said in a half sneering manner, "Would you kill this innocent one?" "Yes," says the king, "a nit will be a louse."Their goods were taken to the ship, and every preparation made to leave the island; Daylia, however, taking the opportunity to say to me that I might expect to be sent for from England to answer for my conduct, accusing me of influencing the king against them.This was not the fact; and, to the contrary, had I not interfered in their behalf, they would have been killed in the early part of their adventure.Still I did not favor the idea of their remaining very much, knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking with the then existing state of the inhabitants. Had such an enterprise been in the least degree practicable, we should have been foolish indeed not to have welcomed them with joy, as our situation would thereby have been greatly improved, if our escape had not been effected by it.It was painful, indeed, to see them depart, especially so, as far as Messrs. Bingham and Morris were concerned, for, towards them we had formed the strongest attachment.On the morning of the next day they weighed anchor and left the harbor.Twice since this time have the missionaries attempted to form a station there, and as many times been defeated. Once the French Catholics, with an armed force, attempted to drive them to repentance and religion at the point of the bayonet, but the missionaries and soldiers were massacred, and the sailors driven from the harbor.After the missionaries left the harbor, time passed still more heavily than before. A month or two elapsed without our having much to do.One day while seated on a high bluff overlooking the sea, watching for some distant sail, there I sat with anxious, straining eyes till near nightfall, when I discerned a speck in the distance, dancing upon the wave. I watched its course until it ripened into perfect form, giving the beautiful proportion of a large ship. With great eagerness I watched it until night closed it from my sight. Wondering whether she was destined to land at our shores, I returned to the valley and gave notice to the king of its approach.The next morning I, with my wife, at a very early hour, went to bathe, and saw the ship heading towards the harbor. The king and other natives soon joined us, all with straining eyes watching the ship.On its nearer approach the king asked me if I would take charge of the ship if he would kill all the crew and take possession of her. This I refused to do, saying our countrymen would come there in great numbers and kill us. He, shaking his head, said, "if they will kill you, what would they do to us? we will not touchthem." They suppose all ships and crews, like themselves, belong to some great king; and if any crew commits any wrong upon them, and they cannot be revenged upon the aggressors themselves, they will upon the next ship that comes there, believing one common head suffers or bears the loss. This is the reason, generally, that innocent crews have been murdered so cruelly by them, without any seeming provocation.The ship entered the harbor and dropped her anchor. The boats came to land with the captain and others. At first sight I thought I recognized in the person of the captain, a friend of other days. This idea was strengthened much by hearing the crew address him as "Capt. Coleman."I immediately stepped up and asked him if he ever sailed in the brig Henry. He assured me he had. I then, looking him steadily in the eye, asked, "do you know me, sir?" Looking at me a moment steadily, he said, "yes, Bill! though your sunburnt countenance and savage connections almost bid defiance to the recognition." How I came there in that horrible place, with that outlandish crew, and what I could be doing, exceedingly puzzled him.I chatted with him some time. The king noticing a spirit of familiarity existing with us, stood by with more than common watchfulness, and at every few words, would say,yahah? (what says he?) I told him at each inquiry that he wanted hogs and water, or in some other way quieted him.Finding it useless to attempt a conversation at that time, he went back to the ship and sent two rafts of casks to the shore for water. These I bargained withthe natives to fill for him, paying them in whales' teeth, tobacco, &c. He also purchased a quantity of hogs, fruit, &c., of the natives, always paying them as much certainly, as he promised to do. Besides, he made them many presents of small, and to him, valueless articles, though they esteemed them very highly. This won their affections completely, and he was allowed to go where and when he pleased. By this means we were enabled to get together often and form a plan by which he could assist me in getting away, which was to go on board as the land breeze sprang up. I told him repeatedly of the sad consequences that would most assuredly follow to himself and crew, as well as to me, should we be detected in the act. But that did not in the least degree deter him from making the attempt. What a noble contrast between this captain, who was willing to run the risk of his life, and the lives of his noble crew, to assist me to escape, and the heartless wretch of the Pocahontas, who refused to let me have any thing unless I would pay him in American currency, which he well knew I had not; at the same time he was in want of hogs, &c., which I could furnish him with, and which he chose rather to obtain from the simple natives with a piece of old valueless hoop iron; thus depriving me of useful articles which my necessities required.The afternoon previous to the departure of the ship, the captain spent on shore with us, and when he left to go on board I shook hands with him, as if never to see him again, telling him to cause a statement of our situation to be made to our friends, which he promised to do.He went to his ship—manned the windlass—hoveshort the cable and mast-headed the top-sail yard. The natives seeing it, askedyahah hannah hannah moro, (or, what are they doing there?) I told them they were heaving short and getting ready to leave the harbor. The king asked me then if I wished to leave the island and go with them. I with an outburst of laughter, as if perfectly astonished at the question, said loudly, I did not. I was then asked why. I referred him to my wife and the happy manner in which I lived. At this he seemed greatly delighted.Often have I heard it asserted that falsehoods were never justifiable, and that the truth is best in all cases. Should those who most loudly proclaim such views, be thus situated, I fear their theory and practice would differ very much. Never have I met a man, I think, who would under those circumstances adhere strictly to the truth, and thereby lose his opportunity of getting away.We walked away to my hut where the king and second chief sat and chatted with me till the evening was far advanced. They went to their homes perfectly satisfied that I did not wish to go, at least, I thought so, and I was certain I weighed each word and look well. I went to bed and had a lengthy talk with my wife about the ship's leaving the shore and of my unwillingness to go. I remained talking till near midnight, when feigning sickness I got up and walked out.On the beach I found an old native, who seemed somewhat surprised at my presence, as well as I at his, for I feared a watch was kept. Chatting with him awhile, I was satisfied all things were right. Together we went back to the huts. His being first, I saw him go in,when I went home, and as the land breeze had not yet sprung up, went to bed. I lay a short time in the highest state of excitement, when I heard a rustling in the trees, which I knew was a signal for me to start.I lay some moments scarce able to raise myself, for fear had taken fast hold of me,—I knew not but some wiley native had discovered something in me which excited them and a watch was kept. If such were really the case, most horrible would be its results.I was half inclined to abandon the project. Knowing that if this most favorable opportunity passed I might not see another, hope bade me make the trial.I was soon upon the beach, shoved off a canoe, and was getting in when I found there were no paddles. For a moment I gave up the idea, when recollecting that I had seen some broken ones a few days previous, lying behind an uninhabited hut, thither I repaired, greatly fearing the dogs would give the alarm; I obtained the paddles and was again at the boat.No person can form any idea of the wretchedness of my situation, as I looked around to see if danger was near.The moon which had before shone brightly, had retired behind the bluff as if unwilling to bear witness to the affair. I soon reached the ship, seized hold of the ropes, which hang over the ship's side for the purpose, and putting my shoulders under the main chains, sank my canoe, and jumped on board, not daring to look behind lest I should find myself pursued.As was previously arranged, there was but one man on board who saw me, who was Mr. Bliffin, the mate, the others being below, knowing nothing of my beingthere, so that should the natives miss me and come on board, they could not betray me by any emotions of fear.Without speaking to Mr. Bliffin I went immediately to the captain's room, from thence I secreted myself in the run or after part of the vessel, under a pile of rubbish.The sailors were called and every effort made to quit the harbor immediately. We had scarcely moved from her berth, when by the noise and bustle about the ship, I was satisfied the natives were aboard. Soon I heard them nearing me, and could distinctly distinguish their voices. Among them was the first chief who said, "let us be off, for he is not here; if he had been they would not have let us looked."The captain pretended not to understand them when they came to the ship, and it was a long time before he could, at the same time he was crowding all sail and getting as far out as possible. Believing I was not there, they left the ship and paddled for the shore. Soon as they had gone the captain called me from my hiding place and took me on deck, to the great astonishment of the crew.There were about forty came on board. Great was the delight with which I looked on them as they were gaining the shore; and while I was overjoyed at my own escape, I could not but look back upon the wretchedness and misery of Noyce, who was left behind entirely ignorant of what had become of me.Whether I was captured and killed by some one who might have an ill will towards me, or had escaped on board the ship, were alike matters of consideration withhim, for I had left him entirely ignorant of my plans, as I knew I must in order to effect my own escape.Many who may favor me with reading my simple narrative will no doubt censure me for so doing, but should they be situated as I was, knowing the utter impossibility for both to escape, they would, I think, find the love of self, naturally strong as it is in man, pointing them to the same course I pursued. To go and leave him was indeed painful in the extreme, but had he been thus favored by the visit of a friend who was willing to run the risk of his life in taking him away, and he had thus effected his escape, I think I could only have thought him acting right, however much I might deplore my loss.The first kind offer of the captain as I came on board was to give me clothes to cover my nakedness. Awkward, indeed, I felt as well as acted, when clothed again, having been naked eighteen months. And as I tasted of the salt meats and other articles found on ship board, cooked so different from what I had been accustomed to so long, I could scarcely eat them.
A visit from the Cohaphas. Our King wishes to learn the use of the gun. Abandons the idea. Arrival of Captain Fisher. His inhumanity. Is driven from the land. Manner of fishing. Attempt to cultivate tobacco. Efficacy of the tabu law. A missionary ship arrives. Meetings are held. Unbelief of the natives. Narrow escape of the author. Conduct of Mr. Daylia. He is driven from the island. Another sail approaches. Recognition of the Captain. His conduct. Plan of escape. The king is deceived. The author leaves the island. Secretes himself. Is missed. His unpleasant situation. Joy at seeing the natives leave the ship. Reflections.
A few days after, a number of the Cohaphas visited our valley, expressing a strong desire to see the Tehoury and their Pobohe. Among them was the celebrated chief Cappayoho, who was still lame from the wound he had received from our slugs. When we came before him, he looked upon us with perfect astonishment, turned us around again and again, asking many questions respecting ourselves, our country, and the use of our pobohe. A large hog was brought in and roasted, and a sumptuous feast given, of which all partook, forgetting all feelings of enmity.
One day our king expressed a strong desire to learn the use of the gun, and asked me to show him. Not liking the idea of it, being fearful we should not only lose the gun, but the reputation we then sustained from our success with it, I resolved to fix him so that hewould abandon the thought of it. I accordingly put in a powerful charge, and gave him the gun. He with great confidence brought it to his shoulder, and discharged it. So powerful was it that it threw him upon the ground with great force. He sprang to his feet, exclaiming in great rage—"Kekeno tehoury!" I assured him he did not hold it right, and then loaded it for myself and discharged it without harm. That served to convince him. He declared he would never touch the thing again, and did not during my stay there.
The war having closed, left us without any particular way of spending our time, except getting our supply of fruits for living; this done, time passed heavily. Often we would retire to the groves or some secluded spot, where, shut out from the world as it were, we would sing some lively song, which would call to our minds most vividly the scenes of other days. Home, with all its allurements, would rush before us, and our untold grief could scarcely be borne. Suddenly some native would come upon us, perhaps when we were weeping, when we would feign that degree of contentedness which made them believe we were truly so.
At length the cry ofmoco nui, a large ship, resounded through the valley. This we fancied was the time for our deliverance from this place. She stood abreast the harbor, taking in her light sails; the boats were lowered and came towards the shore; when within hailing distance they asked for permission to land. This the king, through me, granted. Returning to the ship, they stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The females swam to the ship, and, before the sails could be furled, the decks were literally full of them.
She proved to be the ship Pocahontas, Capt. Fisher, of Sag Harbor. The captain coming on shore, I acquainted him with our situation, and requested his interference in our behalf. He, with a great degree of indifference, offered to take us away if we would get the king's full consent; this he knew we could not do. I then asked him for clothing? His reply was:
"I do not carry clothes around for such miserable fellows as you are;" and furthermore, he had none except those needed for the use of the ship's crew; yet he offered to sell me some, provided I would pay him in American currency. I could only offer him the usual commodity of the island—hogs, &c. These, he said, he could buy of the natives with a few scraps of old iron.
His casks were already on shore for water, and he was trying to get the natives to fill them. I went to the king and told him he was a kekeno tehoury, (bad white man,) and that he was going to get water and hogs without pay, and advised him to drive them from the harbor. The king at this became greatly enraged, and called together the tribe, or many of them, ordered Capt. Fisher to leave the island immediately, and not to land their boats again.
The casks were rolled into the water, the natives followed up closely with clubs and spears, ready to force them away, should they offer resistance or in any way retard their operations. The next morning they weighed anchor and left our harbor, without being able to get either water or provisions.
As fishing was one of the ways in which we spentour time, I purpose here giving an account of the manner in which fish are caught:
When a school of porpoises enter the harbor, notice is given to the tribe, who, armed with stones, immediately resort to the water; some on each side rush into the water, beating the stones together beneath the surface. The porpoises becoming frightened, flee before their pursuers and are driven upon the beach, where they are killed by the old men and boys with clubs.—They are then taken to their huts, and hung up by a cord of bark run through the tail. From these they daily feast, until they rot and fall from their hanging place.
Smaller fish are taken by nets, made of the cords of bark. These nets are about twenty feet across the top or mouth; they are sunk below the water's surface by stones placed in the bottom and attached to several boats, stationed at regular points about, by cords. The natives then swim around on all sides, and at a given signal swim towards the boats, beating stones together. The fish frightened on all sides, flee to the least dangerous point, which is in the vicinity of the net; the net is then raised to the surface, oftentimes catching a barrel or two at a time. The females seldom join in catching fish, and never unless by special permission.
Finding a plant much resembling tobacco, I thought I would try to cultivate it, hoping to improve it, and accordingly set out a number of plants. These the hogs destroyed. When I supplied their place, I bargained with a native to build a stone wall around the patch, which was about fifteen feet square, for a half head of tobacco. When the wall was done I paid him. Heseemed not altogether satisfied with the bargain; he left the hut and went directly to the spot and tore the wall down. I informed the king, hoping he would make him rebuild it. The king seized his club and ran every foot to the house in which he lived. As he with the other members of the family were seated at their evening repast, he rushed in and gave him a heavy blow with the club, completely severing the head in twain, and the brains and blood flew around upon those who sat with him. The king then ordered his brother to take the body and put it in a certain hole in the rocks, where the tide as it ebbed and flows would wash it. Had I supposed such would have been the case, I should not have informed the king of him.
My wife knowing the treachery of the tribe, also hearing their threats, put me on my guard.
Several times they attempted me harm, but I evaded them.
One night while we were quietly reposing on our beds of leaves, with the amer nut light burning by my side, a spear was forced through the side of the hut and lodged within a few inches of my body. I sprang to my feet, put out my light, and remained on the watch the remainder of the night.
The next morning I carried the spear to the king, who called the tribe together, and holding up the spear, called upon the owner to come for it; but no one appeared. Then in the presence of the whole tribe he put me and my household under thetabulaw, which effectually shielded me from all harm. However great their anger or the desire to kill me might have been, none dare lay the finger of harm upon me. Thus to theirheathenish superstition I owed my life, for such was their anger that no law save that would have deterred them from reeking their vengeance upon me.
This however did not heal the wound, or cause the wave of forgetfulness to sweep over the affair, as there was always, during my stay on the island, a sort of hatred existing with the members of that family toward me, though they dare not manifest it.
Again a heavy sail was seen approaching our shores. We dare not look forward to an opportunity of escape, so often had we been doomed to disappointment.
As she came into the harbor and dropped her anchor, we thought we could notice less confusion than usually attended ships on coming to anchor.
The king requested Noyce and myself to go with him to the ship. He had never before allowed us to do that.
On reaching the ship we crawled up her sides, and jumped over the bulwark, when we found ourselves, naked as when born, before two or three English ladies. We instantly jumped overboard, seized a canoe and pulled for the shore, when, Adam-like, we procured leaves and made aprons for ourselves. This proved a Missionary ship, sent from Otaheite, under the direction of an English missionary, named Daylia, who had long resided there, to establish a station, which he intended leaving in charge of two gentlemen, Messrs. Bingham and Morris, who with their wives had come thither for that purpose.
Soon Mr. Daylia, Mr. Bingham and the captain came upon the shore, and after learning the reason of our being there, &c., inquired of the general character of thenatives, and of our views of the proposed idea of establishing a station there. Knowing as we did of the hatred with which they were accustomed to look upon all not belonging to their own tribe, especially should they differ from them, we said much to dissuade them from the attempt. Perhaps however we were influenced more by feelings of selfishness, which might arise from the nature of our situation among them, than otherwise. And in such a light it was viewed by Mr. Daylia, who reprimanded me in a manner not at all becoming the dignity of his station. From that moment Mr. Daylia looked upon me as upon a person bearing his dislike, not to say hatred.
Notwithstanding our efforts to have them relinquish the idea of remaining, they moved some of their effects on shore, among them were a bull and cow, without permission, and took possession of an uninhabited hut near the tabu ground.
This greatly incensed the king against them, and had I not interfered, he would have driven, not only the animals, but the people from his shores entirely. At any rate he would not have the animals there, and ordered them removed immediately, or he would kill them. They were accordingly taken to the ships again.
They brought the females on shore and commenced building a house on the tabu ground; the king watching every movement, forbid their proceeding, and asked them by what authority they entered upon his consecrated grounds. Mr. Daylia replied, "By the Lord's authority." The king significantly said the Lord had nothing to do with the tabu ground, and again forbid their building there.
They persisting in staying, the king told them they might do so while they remained at peace with the other tribes, but should a war break out, they would be tattooed, or driven from the land.
Meetings were held each day, which Noyce and myself generally attended, at the request of the missionaries, as an example to the natives.
The Otaheitean and Marquisian languages are so nearly alike they could converse without an interpreter.
Daylia, in one of his meetings, said much about the good land and a bad land, telling them if they would be good and pray they would go to the good land, when they died. This he explained in a manner suited to their understanding. One of the chiefs jumped up and asked if the missionary who died at Nukuhivah (an English missionary who died about two years before) had gone to that good land. Mr. Daylia assured them he had, when, unwilling to believe it, they sent four men to that island, (about fifty miles) to get some of the bones. At the expiration of five or six days they returned, bringing bones with them; and at the next meeting, when Daylia was again telling of the good land, they set up a shouting, calling him a liar and showed him the bones. They told him he had been driven from his own land and had come to live with them, and he might stop preaching about his good land and his bad land, for they would not believe him. In vain were his remonstrances with them. They told him if he would climb a lofty cocoa-nut tree, which stood near, and jump among the rocks unhurt, they would believe him.
Still he held his meetings, but not with any degree ofpleasantness, for the natives were as likely to set up a war dance as any thing else.
This was imputed to me by Mr. Daylia, who threatened to send me to England and have me severely punished. His threats I did not heed very much, though I should have been extremely glad to have been sent there.
One morning, at an early hour, going as usual to bathe, I met a servant of Mr. Daylia, who was a native of Otaheite, with an axe upon his shoulder. Having before been on good terms with him, I smilingly passed the compliment of the morning, (Kaoha, good morning) and was passing on. Accidentally turning my eye, I saw the axe uplifted, and aimed at my head. I fell upon my knees and evaded the blow. With earnestness I sprang and caught it, having one hand at the head and the other at the end of the helve, before he could again raise it.
Pulling hard as if to get possession of it, at the same time wrestling about, I brought the edge towards him, he also pulling with his might in endeavoring to hold it, when I suddenly relaxed my hold, still holding on the handle, drove the edge into his face, running obliquely across the nose. This was repeated twice, when he fell yelling most lustily.
His cries brought the missionary and many of the natives, with the king and second chief, to the spot.
I told Daylia if that, with the treatment he had given me, was an illustration of his preaching, he had better stay at home than go to the heathen, professedly to preach peace and salvation, while he practiced such horrid digressions.
The servant declared he was doing his master's bidding. This was stoutly contradicted by Daylia. Still I was led by the former friendship which had existed between us, and the previous conduct of Daylia, to believe the statement of the servant in preference to that of his.
The king then ordered them to leave the island that day or he would kill them all. Daylia taking up a little child of one of the missionaries, said in a half sneering manner, "Would you kill this innocent one?" "Yes," says the king, "a nit will be a louse."
Their goods were taken to the ship, and every preparation made to leave the island; Daylia, however, taking the opportunity to say to me that I might expect to be sent for from England to answer for my conduct, accusing me of influencing the king against them.
This was not the fact; and, to the contrary, had I not interfered in their behalf, they would have been killed in the early part of their adventure.
Still I did not favor the idea of their remaining very much, knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking with the then existing state of the inhabitants. Had such an enterprise been in the least degree practicable, we should have been foolish indeed not to have welcomed them with joy, as our situation would thereby have been greatly improved, if our escape had not been effected by it.
It was painful, indeed, to see them depart, especially so, as far as Messrs. Bingham and Morris were concerned, for, towards them we had formed the strongest attachment.
On the morning of the next day they weighed anchor and left the harbor.
Twice since this time have the missionaries attempted to form a station there, and as many times been defeated. Once the French Catholics, with an armed force, attempted to drive them to repentance and religion at the point of the bayonet, but the missionaries and soldiers were massacred, and the sailors driven from the harbor.
After the missionaries left the harbor, time passed still more heavily than before. A month or two elapsed without our having much to do.
One day while seated on a high bluff overlooking the sea, watching for some distant sail, there I sat with anxious, straining eyes till near nightfall, when I discerned a speck in the distance, dancing upon the wave. I watched its course until it ripened into perfect form, giving the beautiful proportion of a large ship. With great eagerness I watched it until night closed it from my sight. Wondering whether she was destined to land at our shores, I returned to the valley and gave notice to the king of its approach.
The next morning I, with my wife, at a very early hour, went to bathe, and saw the ship heading towards the harbor. The king and other natives soon joined us, all with straining eyes watching the ship.
On its nearer approach the king asked me if I would take charge of the ship if he would kill all the crew and take possession of her. This I refused to do, saying our countrymen would come there in great numbers and kill us. He, shaking his head, said, "if they will kill you, what would they do to us? we will not touchthem." They suppose all ships and crews, like themselves, belong to some great king; and if any crew commits any wrong upon them, and they cannot be revenged upon the aggressors themselves, they will upon the next ship that comes there, believing one common head suffers or bears the loss. This is the reason, generally, that innocent crews have been murdered so cruelly by them, without any seeming provocation.
The ship entered the harbor and dropped her anchor. The boats came to land with the captain and others. At first sight I thought I recognized in the person of the captain, a friend of other days. This idea was strengthened much by hearing the crew address him as "Capt. Coleman."
I immediately stepped up and asked him if he ever sailed in the brig Henry. He assured me he had. I then, looking him steadily in the eye, asked, "do you know me, sir?" Looking at me a moment steadily, he said, "yes, Bill! though your sunburnt countenance and savage connections almost bid defiance to the recognition." How I came there in that horrible place, with that outlandish crew, and what I could be doing, exceedingly puzzled him.
I chatted with him some time. The king noticing a spirit of familiarity existing with us, stood by with more than common watchfulness, and at every few words, would say,yahah? (what says he?) I told him at each inquiry that he wanted hogs and water, or in some other way quieted him.
Finding it useless to attempt a conversation at that time, he went back to the ship and sent two rafts of casks to the shore for water. These I bargained withthe natives to fill for him, paying them in whales' teeth, tobacco, &c. He also purchased a quantity of hogs, fruit, &c., of the natives, always paying them as much certainly, as he promised to do. Besides, he made them many presents of small, and to him, valueless articles, though they esteemed them very highly. This won their affections completely, and he was allowed to go where and when he pleased. By this means we were enabled to get together often and form a plan by which he could assist me in getting away, which was to go on board as the land breeze sprang up. I told him repeatedly of the sad consequences that would most assuredly follow to himself and crew, as well as to me, should we be detected in the act. But that did not in the least degree deter him from making the attempt. What a noble contrast between this captain, who was willing to run the risk of his life, and the lives of his noble crew, to assist me to escape, and the heartless wretch of the Pocahontas, who refused to let me have any thing unless I would pay him in American currency, which he well knew I had not; at the same time he was in want of hogs, &c., which I could furnish him with, and which he chose rather to obtain from the simple natives with a piece of old valueless hoop iron; thus depriving me of useful articles which my necessities required.
The afternoon previous to the departure of the ship, the captain spent on shore with us, and when he left to go on board I shook hands with him, as if never to see him again, telling him to cause a statement of our situation to be made to our friends, which he promised to do.
He went to his ship—manned the windlass—hoveshort the cable and mast-headed the top-sail yard. The natives seeing it, askedyahah hannah hannah moro, (or, what are they doing there?) I told them they were heaving short and getting ready to leave the harbor. The king asked me then if I wished to leave the island and go with them. I with an outburst of laughter, as if perfectly astonished at the question, said loudly, I did not. I was then asked why. I referred him to my wife and the happy manner in which I lived. At this he seemed greatly delighted.
Often have I heard it asserted that falsehoods were never justifiable, and that the truth is best in all cases. Should those who most loudly proclaim such views, be thus situated, I fear their theory and practice would differ very much. Never have I met a man, I think, who would under those circumstances adhere strictly to the truth, and thereby lose his opportunity of getting away.
We walked away to my hut where the king and second chief sat and chatted with me till the evening was far advanced. They went to their homes perfectly satisfied that I did not wish to go, at least, I thought so, and I was certain I weighed each word and look well. I went to bed and had a lengthy talk with my wife about the ship's leaving the shore and of my unwillingness to go. I remained talking till near midnight, when feigning sickness I got up and walked out.
On the beach I found an old native, who seemed somewhat surprised at my presence, as well as I at his, for I feared a watch was kept. Chatting with him awhile, I was satisfied all things were right. Together we went back to the huts. His being first, I saw him go in,when I went home, and as the land breeze had not yet sprung up, went to bed. I lay a short time in the highest state of excitement, when I heard a rustling in the trees, which I knew was a signal for me to start.
I lay some moments scarce able to raise myself, for fear had taken fast hold of me,—I knew not but some wiley native had discovered something in me which excited them and a watch was kept. If such were really the case, most horrible would be its results.
I was half inclined to abandon the project. Knowing that if this most favorable opportunity passed I might not see another, hope bade me make the trial.
I was soon upon the beach, shoved off a canoe, and was getting in when I found there were no paddles. For a moment I gave up the idea, when recollecting that I had seen some broken ones a few days previous, lying behind an uninhabited hut, thither I repaired, greatly fearing the dogs would give the alarm; I obtained the paddles and was again at the boat.
No person can form any idea of the wretchedness of my situation, as I looked around to see if danger was near.
The moon which had before shone brightly, had retired behind the bluff as if unwilling to bear witness to the affair. I soon reached the ship, seized hold of the ropes, which hang over the ship's side for the purpose, and putting my shoulders under the main chains, sank my canoe, and jumped on board, not daring to look behind lest I should find myself pursued.
As was previously arranged, there was but one man on board who saw me, who was Mr. Bliffin, the mate, the others being below, knowing nothing of my beingthere, so that should the natives miss me and come on board, they could not betray me by any emotions of fear.
Without speaking to Mr. Bliffin I went immediately to the captain's room, from thence I secreted myself in the run or after part of the vessel, under a pile of rubbish.
The sailors were called and every effort made to quit the harbor immediately. We had scarcely moved from her berth, when by the noise and bustle about the ship, I was satisfied the natives were aboard. Soon I heard them nearing me, and could distinctly distinguish their voices. Among them was the first chief who said, "let us be off, for he is not here; if he had been they would not have let us looked."
The captain pretended not to understand them when they came to the ship, and it was a long time before he could, at the same time he was crowding all sail and getting as far out as possible. Believing I was not there, they left the ship and paddled for the shore. Soon as they had gone the captain called me from my hiding place and took me on deck, to the great astonishment of the crew.
There were about forty came on board. Great was the delight with which I looked on them as they were gaining the shore; and while I was overjoyed at my own escape, I could not but look back upon the wretchedness and misery of Noyce, who was left behind entirely ignorant of what had become of me.
Whether I was captured and killed by some one who might have an ill will towards me, or had escaped on board the ship, were alike matters of consideration withhim, for I had left him entirely ignorant of my plans, as I knew I must in order to effect my own escape.
Many who may favor me with reading my simple narrative will no doubt censure me for so doing, but should they be situated as I was, knowing the utter impossibility for both to escape, they would, I think, find the love of self, naturally strong as it is in man, pointing them to the same course I pursued. To go and leave him was indeed painful in the extreme, but had he been thus favored by the visit of a friend who was willing to run the risk of his life in taking him away, and he had thus effected his escape, I think I could only have thought him acting right, however much I might deplore my loss.
The first kind offer of the captain as I came on board was to give me clothes to cover my nakedness. Awkward, indeed, I felt as well as acted, when clothed again, having been naked eighteen months. And as I tasted of the salt meats and other articles found on ship board, cooked so different from what I had been accustomed to so long, I could scarcely eat them.
CHAPTER X.Description of the Whale Fishery. Being again on board a whale ship, I propose giving my readers a brief description of the Whale, and of the manner of capturing them.There are a number of varieties of whales; the three principal of which are the common Greenland, or what sailors call the right whale, the "razorback" or "finner;" and, thirdly, the cachelot or sperm whale. These three varieties do not differ very essentially in their general structure, though each has its peculiarities. The common full grown right whale varies in length from fifty to seventy feet. Many exaggerated notions are held respecting the size of the whale. Writers of standard works of history have stated that they were frequently found an hundred and fifty or sixty feet in length; and that they had been found even of the extreme length of two hundred and fifty feet. But such is not the fact; they seldom will exceed the length above stated, and measure round the body, directly behind the head, from thirty to forty feet. The head is of great size, and occupies one third of the whole extent from snout to tail. The greatest circumference of the body is just back of the head, whence it tapers sharply away towards the tail. The mouth of the whale is extremely large and long, and will admit, when opened wide, a whaleboat with its crew, if placed crosswise of the jaw,—caseshave been known where the whole length of a boat has thus been taken in. The animal has no fin upon the back, and the two side fins are five or six feet broad, and nine or ten feet in length. The tail or "flukes," as the seamen term it, is some twenty-five feet broad, in the shape of a crescent, and is appended horizontally. This is a dangerous and powerful instrument with which the whale often deals destruction to men and boats, or whatever chances to be in the way during what the sailors term her "flurry," or when she is in the agonies of death. Boats are frequently thrown high into the air, and broken into ten thousand pieces by a stroke from the whale's "flukes." The eyes of the whale are not larger than those of an ox,—the color of the body is mainly black; the under part of the head and abdomen partly white, and partly of a speckled gray. The two spout-holes of the "right" whale are on the top of the head, and descend perpendicular into it for the length of twelve inches or so to the windpipe. The throat is quite small; an inch and a half is the extreme diameter of the gullet in the largest right whales. The food of these whales is, of course, of a very minute nature; they feed upon a multitude of smaller inhabitants of the ocean; and the mouth is provided with a remarkable apparatus, composed of numerous whale-bones extending from the centre of the arch to the lips, tapering away into mere bristles, and forming a kind of fringe, by which means the small particles of food are retained; not so with the sperm whale; they are distinguished by having teeth in the lower jaw, and but one spout-hole on the upper part of the snout. The sperm whale attains to a great size; sometimes reachingthe length of eighty feet; the head is of enormous bulk, and ends abruptly in front. It has a small hump like a camel on the back; and the side fins are also of small size; they generally have from forty to fifty teeth which fit into cavities in the upper jaw.In this whale the gullet is large enough to admit a man; and the food is large fish, principally "squid." A fine oil is obtained from the head of the sperm whale called spermaceti, and from its intestines ambergris. The sperm whale's spout can be seen at the distance of three miles, and is easily distinguished. This whale does not produce as much oil as the other variety, but it is much more valuable; they fight fiercely among themselves, locking jaws with one another, and exerting themselves in the most powerful manner; but they do not attack a boat or man, and are easily frightened away. They are fond of their young, and of one another, and will commonly remain near to a wounded companion. They have the ability, on noticing any object, to communicate intelligence to their companions four or five miles—though the manner in which this is done remains a secret. It is often seen to leap entirely out of water for the purpose, as is supposed, to rid themselves of crabs and sucking-fish which are fond of fastening upon their bodies. This act is termed by the sailors "breaching." The swordfish and others frequently attack the whale with the utmost audacity.I have given my readers a brief account of some of the general features and peculiarities of the whale; and I shall now proceed to describe briefly the manner of catching them. No species of fishing can compare in interest with the whale-fishery. The magnitude of theobject of the chase, and the perilous character of the seas which it peculiarly frequents, are features which prominently distinguish the profession of the whale-fisher from all similar pursuits. Before proceeding to the account of capturing one of these monsters, I will speak of the whaleboat and its appurtenances used for the purpose.The whaleboat is from twenty-two to thirty feet in length, and is provided with five or six oars. It is so formed as to float lightly on the water, move with speed, and turn easily round. The best are composed of straight, one-half inch cedar boards, ruppled and bent to the required shape, by which means their elasticity is greatly increased—the rapid and dangerous movements of the whale render these various qualities indispensable. The principal weapons with which the whale-fishery are supplied are the harpoon and lance. The harpoon is an instrument about three feet long, composed of iron, and consists of three conjoined parts—the socket, shank, and withers or barbs. Much attention is paid to the manufacture of the shank of the harpoon because on its flexibility the retention of a harpooned whale depends. If the shank should break during the plunges of the whale, the animal is lost. The lance is a more simple instrument; it is about ten feet long, and has a sharp flat point or tongue of steel seven inches long. This instrument and the harpoon, together with lines and boat, are all the apparatus actually necessary for capturing a whale.On the ship reaching the fishing ground, preparations are immediately made for commencing the business of capture. Three or four boats are always kept suspendedfrom the cranes, by the side of the ship, in such a position that they can be lowered into the water with their complement of men and the whole necessary apparatus, in the space of one minute.Previously to this time the harpoons and line have been got in order. The socket of the harpoon is furnished with a stock or handle, six or eight feet long, and fastened in its place by means of a splice of strong rope called a foreganger. To this is attached five or six fathoms of line, called the stray line; and this is connected with the other lines of the boat, neatly coiled up in each boat, and about 4300 feet of rope, made of the best hemp, and about two and a half inches in circumference. A hatchet, bucket, and a few other articles, are put into the boat.When on the fishing ground, a man is kept constantly at the mast-head on the look out for whales, and to give the notice to the men on deck of the appearance of one upon the surface—which he does by crying out "there she blows," or "there she spouts," which is responded to by the captain on deck, who inquires "where away." The direction being ascertained, one or more of the boats are lowered, manned by the respective crews of each to row out, and if necessary give chase to the whale—every boat eager to reach him first. There is much competition between the different boats to see which shall first "fasten," or get a harpoon into the whale; and this is sometimes carried to such extreme length, that the unfortunate rear boat, seeing no chance of success themselves, will throw every obstacle in the way of the other to prevent their securing the whale; and sometimes go so far even as to purposelyfrighten the whale away—thus seriously injuring the interest of the owners as well as the whole crew. But this is not allowed in well disciplined ships; for there the officer who goes in each boat is required to guard against it.The boats pull on, and as they approach the whale they see him spouting more slowly. This is a signal that he is soon going down, and for them to hasten if they would secure him. The successful boat shoots alongside. "Peak your oar!" exclaims the officer to the harpooner—the order is obeyed. "Stand up," continues the officer; and the glistening harpoon is seen above the head of the harpooner, who instantly darts it with unerring force and aim, and it is buried deeply in the side of the gigantic creature. "Stern all," cries the master, and every man bends his whole strength to the oar, and the boat is rapidly backed from the whale's side. Now the pained whale plunges, and lashes the sea in a most terrific manner—the noise of which may be heard for miles. Suddenly he disappears, drawing the line out rapidly after him; many hundred fathoms are run out before the whale again makes his appearance on the surface, which he generally does somewhere in the vicinity, in a very much exhausted state, owing to the loss of blood, and his violent exertions to escape the harpoon by plunging furiously to the depths of the sea. He is usually absent about the space of thirty minutes before he rises again to the surface, and then the boat is run rapidly up to him, and the headsman buries his lance in the vitals of the trembling monster. He is now made desperately furious,—the lance is again driven into his side; his motions becomewild and irregular; and, after what is called the mortal flurry, he turns over on his side, and dies. The Leviathan of the deep is conquered! He is now towed to the ship, and there firmly secured by ropes. Then comes the process of what whalemen call "Cutting in," which is the separating and securing the fat or blubber of the whale. It is effected in the following manner:The man appointed for the purpose, with stockings on his feet to prevent from slipping, leaps upon the body, and, secures a piece of about a foot and a half wide, which has been flayed up near the head, to a heavy purchase which is worked in board, men standing on deck with blubber knives, cut it while others work away at the purchase which rolls the body over as the blubber is removed. It is taken on deck, and cut in pieces fit for the pots, when it is tried out, and put in casks. After the bone has been secured, the carcase is allowed to sink.
Description of the Whale Fishery. Being again on board a whale ship, I propose giving my readers a brief description of the Whale, and of the manner of capturing them.
There are a number of varieties of whales; the three principal of which are the common Greenland, or what sailors call the right whale, the "razorback" or "finner;" and, thirdly, the cachelot or sperm whale. These three varieties do not differ very essentially in their general structure, though each has its peculiarities. The common full grown right whale varies in length from fifty to seventy feet. Many exaggerated notions are held respecting the size of the whale. Writers of standard works of history have stated that they were frequently found an hundred and fifty or sixty feet in length; and that they had been found even of the extreme length of two hundred and fifty feet. But such is not the fact; they seldom will exceed the length above stated, and measure round the body, directly behind the head, from thirty to forty feet. The head is of great size, and occupies one third of the whole extent from snout to tail. The greatest circumference of the body is just back of the head, whence it tapers sharply away towards the tail. The mouth of the whale is extremely large and long, and will admit, when opened wide, a whaleboat with its crew, if placed crosswise of the jaw,—caseshave been known where the whole length of a boat has thus been taken in. The animal has no fin upon the back, and the two side fins are five or six feet broad, and nine or ten feet in length. The tail or "flukes," as the seamen term it, is some twenty-five feet broad, in the shape of a crescent, and is appended horizontally. This is a dangerous and powerful instrument with which the whale often deals destruction to men and boats, or whatever chances to be in the way during what the sailors term her "flurry," or when she is in the agonies of death. Boats are frequently thrown high into the air, and broken into ten thousand pieces by a stroke from the whale's "flukes." The eyes of the whale are not larger than those of an ox,—the color of the body is mainly black; the under part of the head and abdomen partly white, and partly of a speckled gray. The two spout-holes of the "right" whale are on the top of the head, and descend perpendicular into it for the length of twelve inches or so to the windpipe. The throat is quite small; an inch and a half is the extreme diameter of the gullet in the largest right whales. The food of these whales is, of course, of a very minute nature; they feed upon a multitude of smaller inhabitants of the ocean; and the mouth is provided with a remarkable apparatus, composed of numerous whale-bones extending from the centre of the arch to the lips, tapering away into mere bristles, and forming a kind of fringe, by which means the small particles of food are retained; not so with the sperm whale; they are distinguished by having teeth in the lower jaw, and but one spout-hole on the upper part of the snout. The sperm whale attains to a great size; sometimes reachingthe length of eighty feet; the head is of enormous bulk, and ends abruptly in front. It has a small hump like a camel on the back; and the side fins are also of small size; they generally have from forty to fifty teeth which fit into cavities in the upper jaw.
In this whale the gullet is large enough to admit a man; and the food is large fish, principally "squid." A fine oil is obtained from the head of the sperm whale called spermaceti, and from its intestines ambergris. The sperm whale's spout can be seen at the distance of three miles, and is easily distinguished. This whale does not produce as much oil as the other variety, but it is much more valuable; they fight fiercely among themselves, locking jaws with one another, and exerting themselves in the most powerful manner; but they do not attack a boat or man, and are easily frightened away. They are fond of their young, and of one another, and will commonly remain near to a wounded companion. They have the ability, on noticing any object, to communicate intelligence to their companions four or five miles—though the manner in which this is done remains a secret. It is often seen to leap entirely out of water for the purpose, as is supposed, to rid themselves of crabs and sucking-fish which are fond of fastening upon their bodies. This act is termed by the sailors "breaching." The swordfish and others frequently attack the whale with the utmost audacity.
I have given my readers a brief account of some of the general features and peculiarities of the whale; and I shall now proceed to describe briefly the manner of catching them. No species of fishing can compare in interest with the whale-fishery. The magnitude of theobject of the chase, and the perilous character of the seas which it peculiarly frequents, are features which prominently distinguish the profession of the whale-fisher from all similar pursuits. Before proceeding to the account of capturing one of these monsters, I will speak of the whaleboat and its appurtenances used for the purpose.
The whaleboat is from twenty-two to thirty feet in length, and is provided with five or six oars. It is so formed as to float lightly on the water, move with speed, and turn easily round. The best are composed of straight, one-half inch cedar boards, ruppled and bent to the required shape, by which means their elasticity is greatly increased—the rapid and dangerous movements of the whale render these various qualities indispensable. The principal weapons with which the whale-fishery are supplied are the harpoon and lance. The harpoon is an instrument about three feet long, composed of iron, and consists of three conjoined parts—the socket, shank, and withers or barbs. Much attention is paid to the manufacture of the shank of the harpoon because on its flexibility the retention of a harpooned whale depends. If the shank should break during the plunges of the whale, the animal is lost. The lance is a more simple instrument; it is about ten feet long, and has a sharp flat point or tongue of steel seven inches long. This instrument and the harpoon, together with lines and boat, are all the apparatus actually necessary for capturing a whale.
On the ship reaching the fishing ground, preparations are immediately made for commencing the business of capture. Three or four boats are always kept suspendedfrom the cranes, by the side of the ship, in such a position that they can be lowered into the water with their complement of men and the whole necessary apparatus, in the space of one minute.
Previously to this time the harpoons and line have been got in order. The socket of the harpoon is furnished with a stock or handle, six or eight feet long, and fastened in its place by means of a splice of strong rope called a foreganger. To this is attached five or six fathoms of line, called the stray line; and this is connected with the other lines of the boat, neatly coiled up in each boat, and about 4300 feet of rope, made of the best hemp, and about two and a half inches in circumference. A hatchet, bucket, and a few other articles, are put into the boat.
When on the fishing ground, a man is kept constantly at the mast-head on the look out for whales, and to give the notice to the men on deck of the appearance of one upon the surface—which he does by crying out "there she blows," or "there she spouts," which is responded to by the captain on deck, who inquires "where away." The direction being ascertained, one or more of the boats are lowered, manned by the respective crews of each to row out, and if necessary give chase to the whale—every boat eager to reach him first. There is much competition between the different boats to see which shall first "fasten," or get a harpoon into the whale; and this is sometimes carried to such extreme length, that the unfortunate rear boat, seeing no chance of success themselves, will throw every obstacle in the way of the other to prevent their securing the whale; and sometimes go so far even as to purposelyfrighten the whale away—thus seriously injuring the interest of the owners as well as the whole crew. But this is not allowed in well disciplined ships; for there the officer who goes in each boat is required to guard against it.
The boats pull on, and as they approach the whale they see him spouting more slowly. This is a signal that he is soon going down, and for them to hasten if they would secure him. The successful boat shoots alongside. "Peak your oar!" exclaims the officer to the harpooner—the order is obeyed. "Stand up," continues the officer; and the glistening harpoon is seen above the head of the harpooner, who instantly darts it with unerring force and aim, and it is buried deeply in the side of the gigantic creature. "Stern all," cries the master, and every man bends his whole strength to the oar, and the boat is rapidly backed from the whale's side. Now the pained whale plunges, and lashes the sea in a most terrific manner—the noise of which may be heard for miles. Suddenly he disappears, drawing the line out rapidly after him; many hundred fathoms are run out before the whale again makes his appearance on the surface, which he generally does somewhere in the vicinity, in a very much exhausted state, owing to the loss of blood, and his violent exertions to escape the harpoon by plunging furiously to the depths of the sea. He is usually absent about the space of thirty minutes before he rises again to the surface, and then the boat is run rapidly up to him, and the headsman buries his lance in the vitals of the trembling monster. He is now made desperately furious,—the lance is again driven into his side; his motions becomewild and irregular; and, after what is called the mortal flurry, he turns over on his side, and dies. The Leviathan of the deep is conquered! He is now towed to the ship, and there firmly secured by ropes. Then comes the process of what whalemen call "Cutting in," which is the separating and securing the fat or blubber of the whale. It is effected in the following manner:
The man appointed for the purpose, with stockings on his feet to prevent from slipping, leaps upon the body, and, secures a piece of about a foot and a half wide, which has been flayed up near the head, to a heavy purchase which is worked in board, men standing on deck with blubber knives, cut it while others work away at the purchase which rolls the body over as the blubber is removed. It is taken on deck, and cut in pieces fit for the pots, when it is tried out, and put in casks. After the bone has been secured, the carcase is allowed to sink.
CHAPTER XI.Speak several vessels. Massacre at Keppell's Island. Touch at the Duke of York's Island. Find a tomb. Electrical eel. Conduct of a negro, who makes much sport. Land Lobster. Land at Cohannah. Improper conduct of the captain. A storm off Hawaii. Anchor at Honolulu. Its description. Scenes on shore. Sports of the surf. Arrival at Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Scenes on shore. Cruise about the different islands. Proposed mutiny. The author leaves the ship.We spoke the Aramata, of New London, which was then steering for the Marquesas, where she was intending to get water and provisions. They informed us of the recent massacre of the whole crew except a boy, of an English ship at Keppell's Island. The Aramata touched there for wood and water, and after dropping the anchor lowered away and pulled for the shore; when they came near the beach their landing was prohibited. The beach was filled with natives, who were armed with spears and clubs which they brandished about, going through with every warlike gesture. They signified to them their reception would be far from a pleasant one.They put back to the ship, but still remained in the harbor, it being so near night. Soon the boy who was saved from the massacre came upon the beach and cautioned them about the natives, for they were determined to kill every person who should land there.He was then suddenly snatched away by the natives.From what they could learn from the boy, they were induced to be on their guard. About midnight a number of canoes were seen to pull towards them. All hands were called, and arms put in readiness. As they came stealthily along and had almost reached the vessel, they gave them the contents of their six guns and two pistols, which sent them yelling towards the shore. This single shot served their entire defeat.We parted with the Aramata, being unwilling to return to the Marquesas with them.About a week after, we spoke the bark James Calvin, of London, returning from Keppell's Island, with the boy. Capt. Coleman lowered away his boat with its full complement of men, harpoons, lines and lances, and went on board of her, while the mate of the James Calvin, with his boat, crew, and apparatus, came on board our ship. This is the way ships usually meet at sea. From them we learned the full particulars of the massacre.Soon as she heard of it she resolved to go to the island, and at all hazards take the boy away. As they entered the harbor several of the natives came to the ship; they suffered them to go aboard, treated them well, gave them many presents, which won their good feelings. As they were about leaving, the captain told them, (through a native of the Sandwich Islands who could talk with them,) that the king of the Sandwich Islands had sent many presents to their king, which he could get by coming on board the next day. The next morning the king came on board, and, as was desired, the boy was brought with him, who was among the first who came. Soon as the boy was fairly on board, thecrew rushed upon the unsuspecting natives, and drove what few had come on board over into the sea. Bearing full, they left the harbor.The boy's story was simply as follows:The ship came into the harbor, where she lay, the captain thinking to go on shore the next morning.—About midnight the natives came upon it in so still a manner, that the watch upon deck did not hear them. Those they killed, and as the others attempted to come above they were killed also. The whole crew except six men and the boy were killed on board; these were taken on shore, and the men killed.The boy was saved by an old woman who took a great liking to him. The bodies of those killed on board were brought on shore, and eaten with the others. All articles of value were taken off, and the ship burned.Parting with the James Calvin, we stood for the Duke of York's Island, taking on our way one small whale and three black fish.Arriving at the island, we lowered away and went on shore, taking our guns with us. We shot many birds of different kinds, among them was one called a Mingo, a large and beautiful bird; the back and top of his wings were a dark gray, the under part of the body and wings were a bright red. While sailing over our heads he presented a most beautiful appearance.We saw no marks of cultivation whatever upon the island, there being nothing but a long, low, sandy beach, with here and there a grove of cocoa-nuts and palm trees. We rowed around two or three miles, and found a little harbor with a beautiful white coral beach. A short distance from the shore we found a mound, whichwas evidently the resting-place of some person whom Fate appointed to die at that desolate place.This was made by laying a wall of stone about seven feet long and two wide, being about fifteen inches high. The stones were laid very closely together, so as to keep out the land lobsters and crabs that swarmed the island.On the wall the coffin, or box, was placed and arched over with stone and wood with a kind of cement. The whole was nearly overgrown with moss.A negro belonging to the ship on coming to it, said he had dreamed three successive nights of finding a vast amount of money, and believed this to be the spot. He set about beating it down, but was driven from it.Our attention was aroused by the loud cries of one of the crew. When we arrived at the spot, we found him with an enormous land lobster, which he had attempted to catch, linked to his thumb so firmly as only to be removed by breaking the claw. These in shape resemble the water lobster, though much larger. Our friend did not attempt to "catch the Tartar" again. We took the lobster to the boat and tied him up, so that he would not run away. They run very fast, drawing their huge claws on the ground after them.Again we went a cruising, and came to a little cove about half a mile in length and about half a mile also in width, being nearly dry at low tide. One of the crew saw a large eel of a greenish color lying quietly in the mud. Thinking to have a little sport, he took a stick and gave him a blow, which was paid back with interest. The stick flew from his hands, and he yelled loud enough to be heard half a mile. He found this to be a large electrical eel, who was not to be trifled with.Other fish are seldom found within their haunts. They live imbedded in the mud until driven therefrom, when with all their venom they dart at the offender, or the first object that comes in their reach. The first blow of a large one would kill any of the human species. When in a state of weakness or nearly exhausted, the sensation produced is quite like that given by a galvanic battery or an electrical machine. They are often found to be from four to six feet long, and weigh from fourteen to twenty pounds. In some parts of South America, fording places are abandoned entirely in consequence of them, it being unsafe to ride through.When the horse or mule steps on them as they lie in the mud, they coil around the legs and against the body, and, with a succession of shocks, bring the poor animal down, and before he can recover from the shocks he is drowned. The rider being dismounted, quite likely falls a prey to some other one, who being fully charged soon puts an end to him.Finding the nature of the fish, some of the crew being bent upon having a little sport, went in the boat, got lances, spears, &c., and commenced an attack upon them. In this I did not join, finding more sport in watching them, than in contributing as dearly as some of them did for the amusement of the others.The negro could not forget his dreamy visions, and was most sanguine in his belief that the before-mentioned mound contained the object of his fancy.Thither he repaired with two or three of his shipmates, myself among the number, determined to be satisfied respecting it. He took a large stone and began pounding away at the cement, which was nearly ashard as the stone itself. Beating a hole through, he assiduously plied himself to pulling out the stones one after another, until he made a hole through to the rude box, whence escaped an odor quite unlike that emanating from a miser's chest. He being so intent upon his errand, would not now believe but it contained treasure for him, and again went to work; running his hand through the hole he had made, he pulled out a piece of a board which Decay had marked as her own, which now fully convinced him of the certainty of the contents.Exasperated at this he flew to the tomb, and would not have left one stone upon another had not we interfered and drove him away, when we replaced the stones as well as we could.We next went about securing a quantity of lobsters to take to sea with us. The negro seeing one run into a hole under the roots of a cocoa-nut tree, ran his hand in after him, but soon found he had also "caught a Tartar." He relinquished his hold, but not so with the lobster: he adhered closely after he was drawn from the hole. The negro jumped about, making wry faces and yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile. The bystanders were so much affected at his grimaces, that they indulged in a hearty laugh, and could not for a moment or two assist him in the least.To laugh at any being's calamity is by no means justifiable; but I think had the most sedate person witnessed the affair, his risibilities would have been affected to a considerable degree.We caught about forty and took them to the ship. The next morning none of them could be found; aftermuch searching we found them dispersed about the rigging, and for several days we found them in different parts of the vessel.I have often heard those better acquainted with their nature than I am, say, they climb the lofty cocoa-nut tree, pick the fruit, carry it out upon the ends of the limb over some rock, and drop it, thus getting at the meat. This I cannot assert as fact, for I never saw it; yet I have seen hundreds of them on trees; I have seen them take the nut in their claws and beat it on the stone, and crack the shell.Leaving the Duke of York's Island, we stood for Fanning's Island, which is of about the same description as the last-mentioned one.Here we cruised about a few days, went on shore, and found two huts that had the appearance of being recently occupied.From thence we stood for the Mulgrave's group, where we took three whales. After trying the oil, we went on shore on Cohannah Island, where there was but little indication of life. On going up a little creek we saw a smoke in the distance; seeing this I told the captain it was best to put back to the ship, for should they see the harpoons and lances in the boats, they would at once consider us as enemies, and would most likely attempt to murder us.He would not be persuaded to return, declaring he would land at all hazards, which was effected with great difficulty, on account of the surf which ran very high.The captain took his gun with him, saying he would shoot the first native he saw. We found several canoeshung up in the bushes. Again I begged of the captain to return. He turned upon me, calling me a coward. This epithet I was willing to bear, telling him if he knew as much of them as I did, he would rather be called a coward than be caught by them.Soon the loud war whoop rang in our ears. I told the captain he could then do as he pleased, but I was going to the boat, and started. I jumped into the boat and shoved off. The natives were rushing down to the beach, armed with clubs and spears. The captain was still quite reluctant about getting in. He drew up his gun ready for firing. This I remonstrated loudly against, but it did no good. He fired, wounding one of them in the legs, who fell upon the ground, yelling loudly, and taking up sand rubbed it on the wound. This to the Captain was much sport, but it would not be sport to the next unsuspecting crew that might touch there, who would without a doubt atone for his folly, for they would most assuredly be revenged.We spoke the bark Harriet, of London, on our way to the Barbadoes, which lie in about 8° 30m' north latitude, and about 175° west longitude. From them we procured a quantity of Plantain, bananas, and a few hogs.From thence we made the Sandwich islands, when to the windward of Hawaii, about 60 miles, we encountered one of the heaviest gales I was ever called upon to witness,—carrying our fore-top-mast away by the cap—main-top-gallant mast and yard, and springing our mizen mast-head. We put up the helm; squared away our main-yard; loosed, and set the fore-sail, to run to the leeward to get more sea room. Under this sail we ran very well, whilst running through the narrowsthat separate Hawaii from Mauli, at the distance of thirty miles.There was a heavy and irregular sea which pooped the ship, and nearly proved her entire ruin. Clearing the deck of water-casks; sweeping the binnacle, which contained the compass, from the deck; tearing the bulwarks from their stations; breaking the rudder at the water's edge, and nearly killing the man at the helm. Those on deck, seeing the wave as it arose and was sweeping towards them, caught hold of the rigging, and thereby saved themselves probably from a watery grave.In this condition we lay, or rather drifted, at the mercy of the waves, three days. When the gale abated, we were about a hundred miles to the southward of the group. We then rigged a jury, or temporary rudder, made from an old spar, which answered our purpose.The wind shifting to the southward, we stood nearly before it, running under reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail; with the greatest care, we were enabled to make Honolulu, and came to anchor about three miles from the town. When all was snug, the boat was manned for shore, where were several whale vessels lying, from which twenty boats were manned to assist us in towing the ship into the harbor where she was repaired.There is a coral reef which extends along the harbor about a mile, leaving only a narrow passage of about one hundred feet for ships to pass. Ships are generally obliged to be towed into the harbor, in consequence of the high points which tower high, and becalm them.At the head of the channel is Diamond head or hill, which is the principle point on the south side of theisland. "This is the crater of an extinguished volcano—a bare shell of a mountain whose bowels have been exhausted by fire. It is of circular form, many miles in circumference, and rises almost perpendicular several hundred feet. Its sides every where look like seared walls; and are fluted and furrowed from top to bottom by the washings of water-courses, as if by artificial workmanship. They are also surmounted in many places by a kind of moulding, of equally singular formation; and again by blocks and piles of jagged lava, having in their elevation the appearance of the parapets and battlements of a dilapidated castle." Between this crater, and the town of Honolulu, which is about three miles distant, lies the neat little valley or plain of Waikiki. The road leading to Honolulu is on both sides lined with cocoa-nut trees, under which, at intervals of only a few rods, are refreshment stations, which are well supplied with billiard and card tables, and every means of dissipation. Dram houses are also very frequent. A more beautiful spot could not be selected than that leading to Honolulu. Beyond Honolulu, to the west, lies a wide extent of open country under a fine state of cultivation.While at Honolulu, I witnessed the execution of twelve natives for mutiny on board a pearl trader, when off Fanning's island, whither they resorted after the affair, and erected two huts which I have spoken of as having seen at that place.One day, on shore, we saw four men drawing sand in hand-carts—each man having a native to guard or drive him. Upon inquiry, we were told they belonged to the ship Kingston of Nantucket; and, for some slightdifficulty with the master, (Capt. Coffin,) they were complained of to Jones, the consul, who threw them into irons, and subject to six lashes each morning, and to draw sand during the day. This treatment was to continue during the stay of the ship; and did until the arrival of the Potomac, Commodore Downs, who instantly released them, most severely reprimanding both the Captain and Mr. Jones.The men being released went on board the Potomac, and some of her men went with Capt. Coffin. As they went on board, they told the Captain it was their intention to throw him and his officers overboard, if they did not use them well. A few days after, the Commodore went on board the Kingston to see how Coffin liked his new men. He told him he would most assuredly have trouble unless he treated them well. He also said he expected to hear from that ship before long, meaning there would, in his opinion, be trouble. Coffin was considered a bad man, being overbearing and very irritable with his crew. Once he confined a man below, and gave him nothing to eat for several days but saw-dust and molasses.When the Potomac left the harbor, she was towed by a number of boats within the influence of the sea breeze, when, giving three cheers which were answered, she made sail, and was soon out of sight. On our return to the harbor, some thought to try the surf, which is sometimes performed in canoes, but usually on what is termed a surf-board, which is an article of private property among the higher classes, both male and female, and to some extent among the common people. This is a board of six or eight feet in length, and from fifteento twenty inches wide, rounded down to an edge; the whole surface being made very smooth.With this under the arm, they repair to the water, and swim into the surf. As they meet a roller, as it is called, or wave, they plunge beneath, and let it pass over. Thus they proceed to any desired distance; sometimes to half a mile out into the open sea, and wait the approach of a heavy swell, when they throw themselves upon the board with the face downwards, having the head and body elevated above the board, and headed for the shore. They skillfully keep themselves upon the swell with their feet and arms, and are borne with the greatest velocity upon its foaming crest, with their heads alone visible above the foam. As they near the shore, they usually slip from the board, to prevent being thrown upon the sand by the surf. This is repeated for hours in succession, and hundreds may many times be seen together riding upon the waves, when they break high above the coral reefs. Four or five of the boats in trying it upset, and the men were thrown upon the reef, and much bruised.We left the harbor of Honolulu about the first of August, 1837, bound for the coast of California.Arriving at Point Conception, we lowered away for the shore, taking three guns with us, where we had much sport shooting deer, rabbits, and squirrels; also some ducks. Getting a supply of provisions we squared our yards, and stood down the coast; touched at Gaudaloupe, an uninhabited island, where we took three seal. This island is much visited by sealers, in the sealing season, where they are taken in great quantities.On our passage from thence found our oil leaking very badly indeed.Shaped our course for Sir Francis Drake's bay for cooperage. On arriving at the supposed place, found nothing but a high iron bound coast, with no possible opening or harbor. The entire crew were strangers on those shores, and knew not the exact position of the harbor. Seeing a small narrow opening in the rocks, we fancied it might lead to the harbor; but it being so near night did not think it prudent to attempt a passage that night. Lay off and on that night, and in the morning felt our way into the harbor, which we found to be a very fine one indeed, being completely land-locked, and large enough for one hundred sail of ships to lie at a time in perfect safety.All fell to securing the oil, which occupied the best part of two days. After the oil was again stowed, and the ship cleaned up, we were allowed liberty on shore, two at a time, furnished with guns and ammunition; shot a great number of penguins and pelicans, which were very tame, allowing us to get quite near them. At one time, we saw four animals of the wolf species, though much smaller than those of the more northern regions. They were standing at our usual place of landing, picking the meat from the shells with which the rocks abound, and known as the California shell.Not liking to land among them, we lay at our oars, making a great noise; this did not intimidate them in the least. Firing at them we next thought we would try; wounded one of them, at whom the others flew, and despatched him in a few moments. The other gun was soon in readiness. We fired and killed two; thefourth thinking then it was high time to be off, ran for the mountains with great speed. Landing, we took the bodies of the wolves, and laid them by for safety until we should return to the ship. We went into the mountains, shot at and wounded several more, but could not get the bodies. Saw an enormous black bird perched upon a high cliff. We crawled around about to where he sat when we first saw him; when we got there he had anticipated our movements, and removed to a point still higher. Saw several smaller ones, but were not near enough to fire.It being now near night, we thought we would take a nearer cut to get to the ship, and accordingly started down the cliff. Coming to an almost perpendicular place, of some ten or fifteen feet, we questioned some time whether it was best to jump or go around by another path. Concluding to jump, we fired our guns to prevent any accident therefrom. The other threw down his gun, and slid after it in safety. I followed, but was not so fortunate; falling heels over head, I landed in a bunch of prickly pears. Having on nothing but thin clothes, which were no safeguard at all, I was filled, from head to foot, with those sharp and piercing thorns. From them I suffered very much for a great length of time. Many of the prickles the sailors picked out of me, the others remained until they caused a sore, and with the matter passed off. On a small island, at the entrance of the harbor which we went into, was the grave of an English Captain, who was murdered by one of his crew, a Portuguese, in 1830. The officers of the ship threw a lance at him, and killed him; he was buried at low water mark without coffin or shroud.On the opposite side of the island we saw a number of sea-elephants, which are taken for their oil, sometimes.Spending three weeks at Sir F. Drake's bay, we hoisted anchor and sailed down the coast, shortening sail and heaving the ship to nights, so as not to pass over the ground uselessly. Some difficulty arose between the officers and crew, which occasioned many hard words. A plot was laid with the crew to murder the officers, run the vessel into some island and abandon her. I was counted as of them, but under no circumstances could I have been induced to join them in placing the finger of harm upon Capt. Coleman. Too nobly had he acquitted himself in my favor, when upon the island a captive among the cannibals.They were extremely impatient for the signal for action to be given, but I kept them in check, promising them a more favorable moment. Thus I held them till their anger had somewhat died away, and we were at Cape St. Lucas. Soon as the anchor was let go and the sails furled, I went to the captain and demanded my pay, also to be put on shore. This astonished him greatly, as all things had passed pleasantly.As an explanation of the affair, I simply told him there was a plot laid, which put in force, would not result in his favor, and advised him to be on his guard, lest in a single moment all would be lost. For a moment he hesitated about giving me my discharge, meaning to retain me, but that he could not do, for I had not signed the ship's papers. He offered me twenty dollars if I would tell him of the plot and those concerned, which I would not do, knowing I had already disclosed enough for him to save himself from all harm with proper care.
Speak several vessels. Massacre at Keppell's Island. Touch at the Duke of York's Island. Find a tomb. Electrical eel. Conduct of a negro, who makes much sport. Land Lobster. Land at Cohannah. Improper conduct of the captain. A storm off Hawaii. Anchor at Honolulu. Its description. Scenes on shore. Sports of the surf. Arrival at Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Scenes on shore. Cruise about the different islands. Proposed mutiny. The author leaves the ship.
We spoke the Aramata, of New London, which was then steering for the Marquesas, where she was intending to get water and provisions. They informed us of the recent massacre of the whole crew except a boy, of an English ship at Keppell's Island. The Aramata touched there for wood and water, and after dropping the anchor lowered away and pulled for the shore; when they came near the beach their landing was prohibited. The beach was filled with natives, who were armed with spears and clubs which they brandished about, going through with every warlike gesture. They signified to them their reception would be far from a pleasant one.
They put back to the ship, but still remained in the harbor, it being so near night. Soon the boy who was saved from the massacre came upon the beach and cautioned them about the natives, for they were determined to kill every person who should land there.
He was then suddenly snatched away by the natives.From what they could learn from the boy, they were induced to be on their guard. About midnight a number of canoes were seen to pull towards them. All hands were called, and arms put in readiness. As they came stealthily along and had almost reached the vessel, they gave them the contents of their six guns and two pistols, which sent them yelling towards the shore. This single shot served their entire defeat.
We parted with the Aramata, being unwilling to return to the Marquesas with them.
About a week after, we spoke the bark James Calvin, of London, returning from Keppell's Island, with the boy. Capt. Coleman lowered away his boat with its full complement of men, harpoons, lines and lances, and went on board of her, while the mate of the James Calvin, with his boat, crew, and apparatus, came on board our ship. This is the way ships usually meet at sea. From them we learned the full particulars of the massacre.
Soon as she heard of it she resolved to go to the island, and at all hazards take the boy away. As they entered the harbor several of the natives came to the ship; they suffered them to go aboard, treated them well, gave them many presents, which won their good feelings. As they were about leaving, the captain told them, (through a native of the Sandwich Islands who could talk with them,) that the king of the Sandwich Islands had sent many presents to their king, which he could get by coming on board the next day. The next morning the king came on board, and, as was desired, the boy was brought with him, who was among the first who came. Soon as the boy was fairly on board, thecrew rushed upon the unsuspecting natives, and drove what few had come on board over into the sea. Bearing full, they left the harbor.
The boy's story was simply as follows:
The ship came into the harbor, where she lay, the captain thinking to go on shore the next morning.—About midnight the natives came upon it in so still a manner, that the watch upon deck did not hear them. Those they killed, and as the others attempted to come above they were killed also. The whole crew except six men and the boy were killed on board; these were taken on shore, and the men killed.
The boy was saved by an old woman who took a great liking to him. The bodies of those killed on board were brought on shore, and eaten with the others. All articles of value were taken off, and the ship burned.
Parting with the James Calvin, we stood for the Duke of York's Island, taking on our way one small whale and three black fish.
Arriving at the island, we lowered away and went on shore, taking our guns with us. We shot many birds of different kinds, among them was one called a Mingo, a large and beautiful bird; the back and top of his wings were a dark gray, the under part of the body and wings were a bright red. While sailing over our heads he presented a most beautiful appearance.
We saw no marks of cultivation whatever upon the island, there being nothing but a long, low, sandy beach, with here and there a grove of cocoa-nuts and palm trees. We rowed around two or three miles, and found a little harbor with a beautiful white coral beach. A short distance from the shore we found a mound, whichwas evidently the resting-place of some person whom Fate appointed to die at that desolate place.
This was made by laying a wall of stone about seven feet long and two wide, being about fifteen inches high. The stones were laid very closely together, so as to keep out the land lobsters and crabs that swarmed the island.
On the wall the coffin, or box, was placed and arched over with stone and wood with a kind of cement. The whole was nearly overgrown with moss.
A negro belonging to the ship on coming to it, said he had dreamed three successive nights of finding a vast amount of money, and believed this to be the spot. He set about beating it down, but was driven from it.
Our attention was aroused by the loud cries of one of the crew. When we arrived at the spot, we found him with an enormous land lobster, which he had attempted to catch, linked to his thumb so firmly as only to be removed by breaking the claw. These in shape resemble the water lobster, though much larger. Our friend did not attempt to "catch the Tartar" again. We took the lobster to the boat and tied him up, so that he would not run away. They run very fast, drawing their huge claws on the ground after them.
Again we went a cruising, and came to a little cove about half a mile in length and about half a mile also in width, being nearly dry at low tide. One of the crew saw a large eel of a greenish color lying quietly in the mud. Thinking to have a little sport, he took a stick and gave him a blow, which was paid back with interest. The stick flew from his hands, and he yelled loud enough to be heard half a mile. He found this to be a large electrical eel, who was not to be trifled with.
Other fish are seldom found within their haunts. They live imbedded in the mud until driven therefrom, when with all their venom they dart at the offender, or the first object that comes in their reach. The first blow of a large one would kill any of the human species. When in a state of weakness or nearly exhausted, the sensation produced is quite like that given by a galvanic battery or an electrical machine. They are often found to be from four to six feet long, and weigh from fourteen to twenty pounds. In some parts of South America, fording places are abandoned entirely in consequence of them, it being unsafe to ride through.
When the horse or mule steps on them as they lie in the mud, they coil around the legs and against the body, and, with a succession of shocks, bring the poor animal down, and before he can recover from the shocks he is drowned. The rider being dismounted, quite likely falls a prey to some other one, who being fully charged soon puts an end to him.
Finding the nature of the fish, some of the crew being bent upon having a little sport, went in the boat, got lances, spears, &c., and commenced an attack upon them. In this I did not join, finding more sport in watching them, than in contributing as dearly as some of them did for the amusement of the others.
The negro could not forget his dreamy visions, and was most sanguine in his belief that the before-mentioned mound contained the object of his fancy.
Thither he repaired with two or three of his shipmates, myself among the number, determined to be satisfied respecting it. He took a large stone and began pounding away at the cement, which was nearly ashard as the stone itself. Beating a hole through, he assiduously plied himself to pulling out the stones one after another, until he made a hole through to the rude box, whence escaped an odor quite unlike that emanating from a miser's chest. He being so intent upon his errand, would not now believe but it contained treasure for him, and again went to work; running his hand through the hole he had made, he pulled out a piece of a board which Decay had marked as her own, which now fully convinced him of the certainty of the contents.
Exasperated at this he flew to the tomb, and would not have left one stone upon another had not we interfered and drove him away, when we replaced the stones as well as we could.
We next went about securing a quantity of lobsters to take to sea with us. The negro seeing one run into a hole under the roots of a cocoa-nut tree, ran his hand in after him, but soon found he had also "caught a Tartar." He relinquished his hold, but not so with the lobster: he adhered closely after he was drawn from the hole. The negro jumped about, making wry faces and yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile. The bystanders were so much affected at his grimaces, that they indulged in a hearty laugh, and could not for a moment or two assist him in the least.
To laugh at any being's calamity is by no means justifiable; but I think had the most sedate person witnessed the affair, his risibilities would have been affected to a considerable degree.
We caught about forty and took them to the ship. The next morning none of them could be found; aftermuch searching we found them dispersed about the rigging, and for several days we found them in different parts of the vessel.
I have often heard those better acquainted with their nature than I am, say, they climb the lofty cocoa-nut tree, pick the fruit, carry it out upon the ends of the limb over some rock, and drop it, thus getting at the meat. This I cannot assert as fact, for I never saw it; yet I have seen hundreds of them on trees; I have seen them take the nut in their claws and beat it on the stone, and crack the shell.
Leaving the Duke of York's Island, we stood for Fanning's Island, which is of about the same description as the last-mentioned one.
Here we cruised about a few days, went on shore, and found two huts that had the appearance of being recently occupied.
From thence we stood for the Mulgrave's group, where we took three whales. After trying the oil, we went on shore on Cohannah Island, where there was but little indication of life. On going up a little creek we saw a smoke in the distance; seeing this I told the captain it was best to put back to the ship, for should they see the harpoons and lances in the boats, they would at once consider us as enemies, and would most likely attempt to murder us.
He would not be persuaded to return, declaring he would land at all hazards, which was effected with great difficulty, on account of the surf which ran very high.
The captain took his gun with him, saying he would shoot the first native he saw. We found several canoeshung up in the bushes. Again I begged of the captain to return. He turned upon me, calling me a coward. This epithet I was willing to bear, telling him if he knew as much of them as I did, he would rather be called a coward than be caught by them.
Soon the loud war whoop rang in our ears. I told the captain he could then do as he pleased, but I was going to the boat, and started. I jumped into the boat and shoved off. The natives were rushing down to the beach, armed with clubs and spears. The captain was still quite reluctant about getting in. He drew up his gun ready for firing. This I remonstrated loudly against, but it did no good. He fired, wounding one of them in the legs, who fell upon the ground, yelling loudly, and taking up sand rubbed it on the wound. This to the Captain was much sport, but it would not be sport to the next unsuspecting crew that might touch there, who would without a doubt atone for his folly, for they would most assuredly be revenged.
We spoke the bark Harriet, of London, on our way to the Barbadoes, which lie in about 8° 30m' north latitude, and about 175° west longitude. From them we procured a quantity of Plantain, bananas, and a few hogs.
From thence we made the Sandwich islands, when to the windward of Hawaii, about 60 miles, we encountered one of the heaviest gales I was ever called upon to witness,—carrying our fore-top-mast away by the cap—main-top-gallant mast and yard, and springing our mizen mast-head. We put up the helm; squared away our main-yard; loosed, and set the fore-sail, to run to the leeward to get more sea room. Under this sail we ran very well, whilst running through the narrowsthat separate Hawaii from Mauli, at the distance of thirty miles.
There was a heavy and irregular sea which pooped the ship, and nearly proved her entire ruin. Clearing the deck of water-casks; sweeping the binnacle, which contained the compass, from the deck; tearing the bulwarks from their stations; breaking the rudder at the water's edge, and nearly killing the man at the helm. Those on deck, seeing the wave as it arose and was sweeping towards them, caught hold of the rigging, and thereby saved themselves probably from a watery grave.
In this condition we lay, or rather drifted, at the mercy of the waves, three days. When the gale abated, we were about a hundred miles to the southward of the group. We then rigged a jury, or temporary rudder, made from an old spar, which answered our purpose.
The wind shifting to the southward, we stood nearly before it, running under reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail; with the greatest care, we were enabled to make Honolulu, and came to anchor about three miles from the town. When all was snug, the boat was manned for shore, where were several whale vessels lying, from which twenty boats were manned to assist us in towing the ship into the harbor where she was repaired.
There is a coral reef which extends along the harbor about a mile, leaving only a narrow passage of about one hundred feet for ships to pass. Ships are generally obliged to be towed into the harbor, in consequence of the high points which tower high, and becalm them.
At the head of the channel is Diamond head or hill, which is the principle point on the south side of theisland. "This is the crater of an extinguished volcano—a bare shell of a mountain whose bowels have been exhausted by fire. It is of circular form, many miles in circumference, and rises almost perpendicular several hundred feet. Its sides every where look like seared walls; and are fluted and furrowed from top to bottom by the washings of water-courses, as if by artificial workmanship. They are also surmounted in many places by a kind of moulding, of equally singular formation; and again by blocks and piles of jagged lava, having in their elevation the appearance of the parapets and battlements of a dilapidated castle." Between this crater, and the town of Honolulu, which is about three miles distant, lies the neat little valley or plain of Waikiki. The road leading to Honolulu is on both sides lined with cocoa-nut trees, under which, at intervals of only a few rods, are refreshment stations, which are well supplied with billiard and card tables, and every means of dissipation. Dram houses are also very frequent. A more beautiful spot could not be selected than that leading to Honolulu. Beyond Honolulu, to the west, lies a wide extent of open country under a fine state of cultivation.
While at Honolulu, I witnessed the execution of twelve natives for mutiny on board a pearl trader, when off Fanning's island, whither they resorted after the affair, and erected two huts which I have spoken of as having seen at that place.
One day, on shore, we saw four men drawing sand in hand-carts—each man having a native to guard or drive him. Upon inquiry, we were told they belonged to the ship Kingston of Nantucket; and, for some slightdifficulty with the master, (Capt. Coffin,) they were complained of to Jones, the consul, who threw them into irons, and subject to six lashes each morning, and to draw sand during the day. This treatment was to continue during the stay of the ship; and did until the arrival of the Potomac, Commodore Downs, who instantly released them, most severely reprimanding both the Captain and Mr. Jones.
The men being released went on board the Potomac, and some of her men went with Capt. Coffin. As they went on board, they told the Captain it was their intention to throw him and his officers overboard, if they did not use them well. A few days after, the Commodore went on board the Kingston to see how Coffin liked his new men. He told him he would most assuredly have trouble unless he treated them well. He also said he expected to hear from that ship before long, meaning there would, in his opinion, be trouble. Coffin was considered a bad man, being overbearing and very irritable with his crew. Once he confined a man below, and gave him nothing to eat for several days but saw-dust and molasses.
When the Potomac left the harbor, she was towed by a number of boats within the influence of the sea breeze, when, giving three cheers which were answered, she made sail, and was soon out of sight. On our return to the harbor, some thought to try the surf, which is sometimes performed in canoes, but usually on what is termed a surf-board, which is an article of private property among the higher classes, both male and female, and to some extent among the common people. This is a board of six or eight feet in length, and from fifteento twenty inches wide, rounded down to an edge; the whole surface being made very smooth.
With this under the arm, they repair to the water, and swim into the surf. As they meet a roller, as it is called, or wave, they plunge beneath, and let it pass over. Thus they proceed to any desired distance; sometimes to half a mile out into the open sea, and wait the approach of a heavy swell, when they throw themselves upon the board with the face downwards, having the head and body elevated above the board, and headed for the shore. They skillfully keep themselves upon the swell with their feet and arms, and are borne with the greatest velocity upon its foaming crest, with their heads alone visible above the foam. As they near the shore, they usually slip from the board, to prevent being thrown upon the sand by the surf. This is repeated for hours in succession, and hundreds may many times be seen together riding upon the waves, when they break high above the coral reefs. Four or five of the boats in trying it upset, and the men were thrown upon the reef, and much bruised.
We left the harbor of Honolulu about the first of August, 1837, bound for the coast of California.
Arriving at Point Conception, we lowered away for the shore, taking three guns with us, where we had much sport shooting deer, rabbits, and squirrels; also some ducks. Getting a supply of provisions we squared our yards, and stood down the coast; touched at Gaudaloupe, an uninhabited island, where we took three seal. This island is much visited by sealers, in the sealing season, where they are taken in great quantities.
On our passage from thence found our oil leaking very badly indeed.
Shaped our course for Sir Francis Drake's bay for cooperage. On arriving at the supposed place, found nothing but a high iron bound coast, with no possible opening or harbor. The entire crew were strangers on those shores, and knew not the exact position of the harbor. Seeing a small narrow opening in the rocks, we fancied it might lead to the harbor; but it being so near night did not think it prudent to attempt a passage that night. Lay off and on that night, and in the morning felt our way into the harbor, which we found to be a very fine one indeed, being completely land-locked, and large enough for one hundred sail of ships to lie at a time in perfect safety.
All fell to securing the oil, which occupied the best part of two days. After the oil was again stowed, and the ship cleaned up, we were allowed liberty on shore, two at a time, furnished with guns and ammunition; shot a great number of penguins and pelicans, which were very tame, allowing us to get quite near them. At one time, we saw four animals of the wolf species, though much smaller than those of the more northern regions. They were standing at our usual place of landing, picking the meat from the shells with which the rocks abound, and known as the California shell.
Not liking to land among them, we lay at our oars, making a great noise; this did not intimidate them in the least. Firing at them we next thought we would try; wounded one of them, at whom the others flew, and despatched him in a few moments. The other gun was soon in readiness. We fired and killed two; thefourth thinking then it was high time to be off, ran for the mountains with great speed. Landing, we took the bodies of the wolves, and laid them by for safety until we should return to the ship. We went into the mountains, shot at and wounded several more, but could not get the bodies. Saw an enormous black bird perched upon a high cliff. We crawled around about to where he sat when we first saw him; when we got there he had anticipated our movements, and removed to a point still higher. Saw several smaller ones, but were not near enough to fire.
It being now near night, we thought we would take a nearer cut to get to the ship, and accordingly started down the cliff. Coming to an almost perpendicular place, of some ten or fifteen feet, we questioned some time whether it was best to jump or go around by another path. Concluding to jump, we fired our guns to prevent any accident therefrom. The other threw down his gun, and slid after it in safety. I followed, but was not so fortunate; falling heels over head, I landed in a bunch of prickly pears. Having on nothing but thin clothes, which were no safeguard at all, I was filled, from head to foot, with those sharp and piercing thorns. From them I suffered very much for a great length of time. Many of the prickles the sailors picked out of me, the others remained until they caused a sore, and with the matter passed off. On a small island, at the entrance of the harbor which we went into, was the grave of an English Captain, who was murdered by one of his crew, a Portuguese, in 1830. The officers of the ship threw a lance at him, and killed him; he was buried at low water mark without coffin or shroud.On the opposite side of the island we saw a number of sea-elephants, which are taken for their oil, sometimes.
Spending three weeks at Sir F. Drake's bay, we hoisted anchor and sailed down the coast, shortening sail and heaving the ship to nights, so as not to pass over the ground uselessly. Some difficulty arose between the officers and crew, which occasioned many hard words. A plot was laid with the crew to murder the officers, run the vessel into some island and abandon her. I was counted as of them, but under no circumstances could I have been induced to join them in placing the finger of harm upon Capt. Coleman. Too nobly had he acquitted himself in my favor, when upon the island a captive among the cannibals.
They were extremely impatient for the signal for action to be given, but I kept them in check, promising them a more favorable moment. Thus I held them till their anger had somewhat died away, and we were at Cape St. Lucas. Soon as the anchor was let go and the sails furled, I went to the captain and demanded my pay, also to be put on shore. This astonished him greatly, as all things had passed pleasantly.
As an explanation of the affair, I simply told him there was a plot laid, which put in force, would not result in his favor, and advised him to be on his guard, lest in a single moment all would be lost. For a moment he hesitated about giving me my discharge, meaning to retain me, but that he could not do, for I had not signed the ship's papers. He offered me twenty dollars if I would tell him of the plot and those concerned, which I would not do, knowing I had already disclosed enough for him to save himself from all harm with proper care.