CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER VII.Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of theTabuground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of building. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken around to the other tribes. Death of one of our number from the sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of.The next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on shore. As we reached the beach, found it lined with natives. Seeing no weapons, we asked by signs for permission to land. This was readily obtained.The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives was formed on each side, who laid hold of the gunwales and carried boat and crew up about twice the length of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it down. The treatment that was in store for us was quite a query.Getting out of the boat we were examined from head to foot, being turned around and around, they during the survey chattering among themselves with great volubility.They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu ground, and were a long time in consultation, leaving us standing by ourselves on the beach. The tabu ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with posts which are wound around with the inner or fine bark of a tree called Tappa, which is thin and white.It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground around. Against this bark flat stones about two feet long are set on the end, nearly as thick as they can stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross legged on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made of flat stones, on which the food at the time of the grand feast is placed. All public business is transacted here.RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.THE TABU GROUND.After a while they came running very fast towards us. By this we were fearful they intended us no good, but we were happily disappointed. They seemed fully to realize the nature of our situation, and immediately set themselves about ameliorating our condition and rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of such as they had—bread fruit—banannas—raw fish, &c. Of the vegetables we ate plentifully; the raw fish being an entirely new dish, we passed it lightly by.Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and put at different families, where all seemed touched by the spirit of sympathy for our sufferings.The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with thePrua(or king) and chiefs repaired to the boats, and rowed around the point, about three miles, to where the vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so complete was the wreck that there was not enough left of her to leave even the least trace of a ship discernible.The rocks against which she struck were not low and shelving, as is many times the case, but high and bold, rising about fifty feet perpendicularly, and ranging a mile or two along the coast. The water at the very base is from fifty to seventy feet deep, thus leaving no place whatever for any thing to remain on them.Returning, our boat was taken as before, and landed above the washing of the sea, and when we got out, was turned over and the oars laid by for safety.Night coming on, we were again distributed around among the different families, where we were made welcome to all they had. Much time was spent in trying to make us understand them. This we could not do, except they could convey their ideas to our minds by signs.It may be well at this period of the adventure to give a description of the huts or houses, in order to get a more definite idea of the passing events.The front side and ends are made by driving posts or sticks of bamboo into the ground and secured by fastening a strong one across the top. The roof is made also of sticks of bamboo, serving as rafters, across which others are fastened, making it very strong indeed. The whole is then covered with several thicknesses of the largest outspread plantain leaves. These are also fastened by lashing bamboo across them, being entirely impervious to the rain. The roof on the front side extends to within about four feet of the ground, while on the back side it extends entirely to it.The door is merely an opening left between the bamboos, when in the progress of building.A wall made of flat stones about fifteen inches high, extending along the front side, occupies about two-thirds of the whole interior of the dwelling. On this wall, or floor, they perform all the labor of the family, such as preparing and eating their food. Their provision is served up in one common dish and placed on the floor,when all gather around, sitting cross legged, and each with his fingers helping himself.The remaining one-third is occupied as a bed. This is made of leaves and dried grass. The head, or that next the roof, is made about ten inches high, sloping gently down against the wall. Sometimes the whole is covered with coarse mats made of grass. The sleeper is obliged to lie on his back, placing his legs, from below the bend of the knee, on this wall. A severe penalty is attached to the act of placing a foot on, or throwing any thing on or across the bed. I have no recollection of the law's ever being enforced, and in fact I cannot say as I ever knew of its being broken, voluntarily, or otherwise than by accident, which, except by severely reprimanding the offender, was overlooked. Great precaution, however, is observed respecting it.At an early hour we were shown to our beds. The manner of lying was so unnatural that we could rest but little, longing continually for the approach of morning. Beside the awkward position in which we lay, we were continually annoyed by bugs and insects, with which the bed was literally filled.In the morning with the first ray of light we were out and upon the beach. Soon others of our ill-fated companions joined us, who, like ourselves, found much fault with their lodgings. Ere long the king and other natives came also upon the beach. While we were talking of our situation and prospects they would stand by with staring eyes and open mouths, seeming exceedingly anxious to understand our conversation.Their morning repast being ready we again returned to our respective homes.Our breakfast was composed of bread fruit, raw fish, &c., of which we partook with appetites sharpened by deprivation and fatigue.The natives usually bathe each morning, and often many times during the day near their huts, in a place most beautifully adapted to it.Out of the rock there pours a stream of clear, cold water, about six inches in diameter, and twenty-five or thirty feet from the ground, which falls into a kind of basin from whence it runs into the sea.Under this the natives jump and most effectually shower themselves. Should the water coming that distance strike them before it was broken or separated, they could not stand its force; but such is not the case, as it breaks soon after leaving the rock, and falls upon a large surface with but little force.To this spring ships often come for supplies of water, as there can be none better found, besides, the quantity wanted is easily obtained.The bread fruit in its various forms constitutes the principal article of food among them, and is found in great abundance. There are two crops in a year; one in May, the other in November. The greater reliance, however, is placed upon the May crop, which ripens much the best. The November crop, or what can be spared of it, is collected and baked in an Euma or oven, which is a large hole dug in the earth about two feet deep, and from two to five feet across, according to the quantity to be baked. Large flat stones are placed on the bottom, on which a fire is kindled; smaller stones are placed in the fire, which, becoming heated, are removed, the embers nicely cleared out, the stones arethen covered with large green plantain leaves, the fruit also wrapped in leaves, put in, and the small heated stones put over. Water is thrown on to create a steam and the whole hastily covered with earth. After being baked, the covering of earth and stones is removed, the rind or shell scraped off, and the meat wrapped closely in leaves is placed in a large hole in the ground dug for the purpose, being placed so they will not touch each other. After the first layer is placed, a quantity of leaves are strewn over and another layer put on. Thus they proceed until the hole is full, when it is covered with earth and kept in case of a failure of the next or any other crop. It will keep so for a great length of time. One hole, while I was there, was found accidentally which was not filled within the recollection of any then living, and yet the fruit was in a perfect state and as sweet as when put there. Fruit thus prepared is called May. But if intended for the family's immediate use, the rind is also scraped off, when it is pounded to a jelly and mixed with water. This is calledPoe, and is taken from the dish by the two first fingers, called "poe-fingers," which are thrust into it and twirled swiftly around the poe. Being of the consistency of paste it adheres to the finger and is thrown into the mouth. The hands are always washed, both before and after eating. Any person not doing this is driven from the dish to eat alone, as being unfit to eat there; though that seldom happens, such laws, or customs being most strictly adhered to.As a drink, they use very freely an article calledCarver, which is made from a root found in the uplands. After being dug or pulled it is chewed by thefemales and put in a calabash of water, when it ferments, then it is strained through long grass and is fit for use. This, if drank in copious draughts, causes a dizziness and a horribly distorted countenance. They lose the use of their limbs, and fall and roll about on the ground, until the stupefaction wears away.The Carver is much used for medical purposes, being very efficacious in its results. If it is taken in great quantities, the skin becomes dry and parched, and peals off, like the effects of the sun's heat upon the hand or neck, leaving an entirely new and smooth surface—completely renovating the entire system.During my stay there I was bitten by a Centipede on the ball of my thumb. The Serrever or doctor put me to bed, upon my back, as was always the position for lying, fastened my hand up to the roof of the hut, and secured a bark, in a dish-like form, around the wrist, into which he poured carver. In the morning the pain was entirely removed, and I suffered no farther inconvenience from it. The bite from them often results in death.One curious fact respecting it is, that when chewed by the natives, it comes from the mouth dry like meal from the mill. This I often attempted to perform, but was not able to do it.The females usually prepare it, though they are prohibited its use. During my stay I knew of but one or two instances of a violation of that law.We loitered around the island altogether discontented. I think, however, we might have lived a few days among them tolerably well, had not the idea of our beingobliged to do so, with no means of getting away, been so terribly impressed upon the mind.We visited most of the families in the valley, and at each saw new scenes. Some were making poe, others braiding mats, while some were making tappa, oars, spears, &c.In our rambles we were always accompanied by a score of natives, who followed us at a little distance, watching our every movement. In one instance we came to an orange grove, where we stopped to pick some of the fruit. They came running furiously to us, crying "tabu! tabu!!" at the top of their voices, and taking the fruit from us, drew us from the spot. This puzzled us not a little. We soon learned, however, that they had been reserved by the king for some special purpose, who hadtabuedthem, or placed such restrictions upon them, that no one of the tribe dare touch them, it being considered a great offence.The Captain being altogether sick of such a life, proposed going to Otaheite in the open boat. He urged no one to go with him, but simply proposed the thing, kindly offering to share his last morsel with those who should be disposed to undertake it with him. One after another acceded to his proposition, until all, save myself and two others, Dawson, a native of Liverpool, England, and Noyce, of Albany, New York,—had pledged themselves to go. We knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking at that season of the year, especially, when violent tornadoes swept over that portion of the seas, accompanied with heavy rains, would not consent to go, choosing rather to remain with the natives and run the risk of our ever getting away.The natives were apprised of their wish to go, when they immediately repaired to the mountains, got them small pigs, a quantity of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, &c., also a few calabashes of water.With the most sanguine expectations they started, having nothing to guide them but a small boat compass, and promising to return and take us away. Of this we had no hopes, believing it would be an adventure of constant and unmitigated suffering, terminating in death.We watched them as long as discernible from the beach, when, unwilling to lose sight of them, we ascended a high bluff, where with straining eyes we anxiously followed them, till by night and distance, they were entirely excluded.With heavy hearts we returned to the valley, determined to conform, in every instance, to their whims and notions, however humiliating, hoping by so doing to obtain their confidence, which would be of vast importance to us.After a few days spent among them, in which we most scrutinizingly watched their every movement, we were taken around to the other valleys or tribes.The island is composed of high bluffs, running from the water inland. Between each mountain or bluff is a low fertile valley through which a small rivulet courses itself. The banks are lined with orange groves, bread fruit trees and plantains, &c., which grow in the greatest luxuriance. These valleys are occupied by different tribes, each bearing a mark peculiar to themselves. Some bear it upon the hands, others upon the face, breast, &c. The tribe with which I was connectedbore it upon the hands, wrists and ancles. This was the largest tribe on the island, called the Teheda.Each tribe which we visited were exceedingly joyous at our approach, gathering around and examining us minutely, and almost deafening us with their confounded gibbering.At night the huts in which we stayed were filled to overflowing, so eager were they to see the "Tehoary" or white man, as they called us.We went on day after day. On the seventh day Dawson was taken sick through the influence of the sun upon his head, or correctly speaking, was sun struck. At mid-day he would be raving, so much so, as to render it extremely difficult to take care of him. Destitute as we were of medicine and medical skill, we could do but little for him. As the day advanced and the sun declined, he would be more quiet, and remain so until its approach the next day, when he was again delirious. On the fourth day he expired in the most excruciating agony.We had seen death seize upon his victims in almost every form, but never before had he approached seemingly so near.As a last sad office to be performed to our departed friend, we set about digging a grave, as best we could with our rude implements of digging.This was not allowed by the natives, who wished to take charge of it according to their own notions, which was to wind the body closely with the fine or inner bark of the Tappa, a tree much resembling the paper mulberry, this to be wound ten or fifteen times around.The body was then taken to a small uninhabited hutand placed upon a bench, or table, made by driving sticks of bamboo into the ground, across the top of which others are fastened, and interlaid, thus forming a table about two feet high. On this the body was placed, where it was to remain until it should moulder and crumble away.The bodies of friends are many times thus wound, and hung by a loop worked ingeniously in the covering on the top of the head, to the ridge of the house in which they live, where it remains a considerable time, when it is taken down, divested of its covering, and placed in the sun, when the outer surface, or skin, parches, and is easily rubbed off, which is done with the hand. The entrails are then removed, the body cleanly washed out, and again wound as before, and hung in its former place, where it remains until it literally falls in pieces. I have in one or two instances seen several hanging in one house, completely filling the house in and around, with the most offensive odor, yet they live unmindful of it.The bodies of kings and those of the royal family are placed, after being wound as before described, in a hut erected on purpose, on or near the tabu ground, in a sitting posture, with the arms raised, the elbow bent to an angle, and supported by sticks of bamboo, driven in the earth. On either side is a man placed, who are taken in war, or stolen from some neighboring tribe, and sacrificed for the purpose, also wound in bark. These are supposed to accompany them in the capacity of servants.At the expiration of three weeks we returned to our own tribe where we were most cordially received.On our arrival we were separated from each other, and not allowed to meet but very seldom. If by chance however we stole together, we were instantly torn apart.Being thus obliged to converse in their language, if at all, enabled us, at the expiration of some three or four months, to speak it tolerably well.This deprivation, change of diet, and the probability of our being forever doomed to dwell among them, tended much to impair our health.Our principal occupation was to gather the bread fruit, prepare and roast it.CHAPTER VIII.A war breaks out. Its causes. Awful Massacre. The Author is tattooed. Manner of its accomplishment. An attack is made upon the Cohapha. Disposition of the prisoners. Continuance of the war. A ship comes to anchor. Our fond hopes blasted. Purchase a gun. Departure of the ship. The author builds a hut and takes a wife. Effect of the gun upon the Cohaphas. They attempt another night attack. Its results. The grand appearance of our army. Result of a single shot. The Author is wounded. Kill the native and take possession of the body and gun. The king rewards us. The body is roasted. Singular adventure with a wild hog. The Cohaphas wish for peace. The place of skulls. Peace is declared.We lived as happily as might be expected until the first of May, when a war broke out between our tribe and the Cohapha. These broils and dissensions existing between the different tribes, are often caused by some trivial affair, perhaps a trifling theft, an injury or insult offered an individual, the resentment of which calls the power of the whole tribe into action.Oftentimes the friendly visit of one party to another results in a fierce contest through some trifling circumstance by which they become embroiled, although the person injured or killed may have been greatly the aggressor.A king at death becomes a god, and is supposed to watch over the destiny of the tribe, and if there should any trouble exist, or a scarcity of bread fruit, or of othercrops occur, he is supposed to be angry, and, to appease his anger, a sacrifice is made of one or more human beings, who, if they are at peace with the neighboring tribes, so as to render the capture of them in battle uncertain, are stolen. This last was the cause of the war in which our tribe at this time was engaged.A king dying in the Cohapha, rendered the seizure of victims from some other tribe necessary.Stealing into our bay at the dead of night, while all were fast in sleep, they cautiously entered the first huts they came to, and before the alarm could be given had killed and were carrying away twelve men, three women and two children.So expert were they that even their bodies could not be recovered.We being then at peace with all other tribes and fearing nothing, were consequently off our guard.This was within a very few feet of the hut in which I was sleeping, and when I reflect upon my own narrow escape, my blood almost chills in its current of life.A council of war was next morning called, when it was determined to put to death all not belonging to the tribe.Every thing now presented an aspect differing entirely from other days.Our great valley was now the scene of confusion. On every side were blood-thirsty warriors impatient for the contest to begin. War canoes were lashed together, clubs and spears put in order, and every man under arms.Such was now the issue, that Noyce and myself were called upon to decide whether we would bear the king'smark and join the tribe and assist in protecting the bay. This we would gladly have passed by, but there was no alternative, save in death and leaving the island. The latter would have been preferred had an opportunity presented itself.Consequently we were brought forward to be tattooed, which was done on the back of the hand, as seen in the Frontispiece.First an ink is made from the smoke of theAmer nut, which when ripe is about the size of the common filbert. These are strung on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, which when dry is hard and stiff. The larger end of this stem is placed in the ground, or in some manner so that it will stand erect, when the top end is lighted and burns freely. The stem of the leaf serves as wick. Over the blaze a piece of bark is held to collect the smoke. When a sufficient quantity is collected, it is put in water, thus forming an ink.The figure to be made is then traced on the desired spot, with a stick dipped in the ink. An instrument made by fastening six or eight small sharp fish bones to a stick, which in shape much resembles the gauge used in splitting straw, is dipped in the solution and driven into the flesh by means of a blow given with a short stick, thus forming a mark which cannot be obliterated.This was an operation indeed painful, especially so on the more sinewy parts of the hand. A long time elapsed before I could use my hands very much.A person thus marked is considered as the king's own private property, subject entirely to his control and disposition, and when bearing this mark can never desertthe tribe, for he would be as cruelly treated by the tribe he wishes to join, as by the deserted one, should he be taken, the penalty for which is death.All things being in readiness for the attack upon the Cohapha, for the purpose of recovering the loss of our men, we started. There were three parties of us. Noyce was with the king, I with the first chief, after whom we were respectively named, Capayoho, a warrior, Whooro, a good man.It was late in the evening when we started. The sky was clear, the stars shone unusually bright, as if approving our mission. So stilly they rowed, that not a noise was heard, save the surf dashing against the iron bound shore from the long and heavy regular swell of the sea. Not a word was heard, for every man knew his duty without an order.Thus we continued on in silence until we reached the bay. We neared the shore and landed about thirty men, a sufficient number being left with the boats.They had scarce left us when the whole welkin rang with loud shrieks; the war-whoop was sounded.Our men returned bringing with them ten men, four women and two children. Some were borne upon the backs of the captors, others were drawn upon the ground by the feet. They were brought alive, though their limbs were broken and their skulls badly fractured.Our canoes shoved off amid the groans of the dying and the shouts and songs of triumph of the captors. The next morning those that were brought alive, having in one or two instances returned to consciousness, were brought forward to the tabu ground, and fastenedwith the face towards a stake, driven in the ground for the purpose.The king then with a long pole, on the end of which is a wad, or tuft of hair, white as snow, which is the beard of some man, generally of their own tribe, who had lived to a great age, walks slowly around the stake followed by the chief, who carries a heavy war club, which he brandishes furiously about, at the same time chanting a kind of tune, in which he is joined by many of the tribe, who are all gathered around.After walking a few times around, the chief, quick as thought, gives the prisoner a blow upon the head, which at once puts an end to his existence; he was then unloosed from the stake, and prepared for the oven.A war dance was then performed around the body, accompanied with loud shouting, singing, and clapping of hands.The preparations were then made for roasting the bodies; the ovens were heated, bread fruit, and other things collected in great abundance; the bodies were brought forward, having the entrails removed, the legs bent upon the back, and fastened to the neck. Small hot stones were placed in the body, and the whole then placed in the ovens, as described. The time required for baking a body in that manner, does not exceed forty minutes.When the bodies are baked, they are removed from the oven to a table, where they are disjointed. A procession is then formed, headed by the king and chiefs, followed by the members of the royal family. A person selected for the purpose then follows with a calabash,filled with a portion of the body, also of the other articles prepared for the occasion.The procession is made up of all belonging to the tribe, and are marched amid loud shouting and singing to the place where the remains of the former kings lie, where the contents of the calabash is cast, saying, "there is some for you;" this is repeated at every feast, and often times at every meal, a bit is thrown into a calabash, (set on purpose), with the same feeling of dependence.In and around the houses of the gods, are bones of all shapes and kinds, of men, beasts, fowls, and fishes, beside great quantities of fruits of all kinds, which are carried there from time to time, and deposited with incantations.After the ceremony is over they are marched back and dispersed about the ground, each helping themselves as they wish. The grand feast is carried on with great glee, amid shouting, clapping of hands, blowing of shells, and a spirit of rivalry seemingly prevails among them in making the greatest noise, and in rejoicing the most over a fallen enemy. They eat as long as they can, when they join in the dance, or sink away into a senseless stupor, the cause of which, is, that on such occasions, they drink very freely indeed. This lasts from one half to an hour, when they again eat and drink, until the second and third stupor seizes upon them, which continues until the last morsel is eaten.In those feasts we were compelled to partake, which was greatly against our wishes; yet had we been unconscious of what the feast consisted, I think we wouldhave called it a most delicious morsel; and should any of my readers sit down to a dish nicely prepared, without knowing what it was, or supposing it something different, I think they would join with me in declaring it of the richest flavor.The war by land now commenced, and was carried forward with vigor, each day visiting the battle field, and trying in every way to entrap their enemies. Sometimes a week would pass, and they not get sight of them. As they fought with clubs principally, they could do nothing except in close combat; this the enemy avoided; if by chance one of them wandered off alone, he was almost sure to be taken, so much were our men on the alert.Noyce and myself, unaccustomed to the use of the spear or club, were allowed to stand neutral, this we continued to do for the space of five months.The ship Royal Sovereign, of London, came to anchor in our harbor for the purpose of getting provisions, water, &c. Soon as the ship was seen entering the harbor, we received strict orders not to step on board; also in our presence, the people were told to keep the strictest watch of us, lest we should escape. This suddenly put a damper on our hopes, for we had strongly hoped at its approach to find it a means of deliverance for us; foiled in this, we concluded to take no notice of it, but rather appear as if perfectly willing it should be so, and watch an opportunity when we could without suspicion on their part, secrete ourselves on board some other ship.Our apparently caring but little about the restrictions, tended much to enliven them; of this we made gooduse. Soon as the anchor was let go, the females plunged as usual into the water, and swam for the ship; that is their usual way, as the use of the boats are prohibited them. The captain lowered away his boat, and came for the shore; on his near approach he hailed for liberty to land. I stepped forward and gave him the desired permission; he seemed greatly surprised at hearing his own language spoken here, while there were no ships lying in the bay.At his calling loudly, on his landing, for the Englishman, who spoke to him, I came forward to them; he could hardly believe me to be one, for the scanty allowance of clothes with which I left the wreck, had long before fallen off, leaving me entirely naked, and exposed to the sun's scorching rays; besides, my long beard, and uncombed hair, rendered me in appearance scarce less than a savage.At the many inquiries he made respecting our situation, the natives standing by would say,yahah, or, what does he say? As this was done at every inquiry, I had to use much deception, telling them he wanted hogs, fruit, and water, and for him to solicit the natives to assist in procuring them.Having acquainted him respecting the war, I proposed to buy a gun and ammunition, if he had one to spare; he brought forward one, and I think the only one he had on board, and very poor at that, which he offered to sell me for hogs. I left him to consult the king, who stoutly refused to buy it; I labored much with him, telling him how many of the Cohaphas I could kill, and at a great distance too, which I measured off to him; at this he was greatly astonished, and immediatelyconsented to have me purchase it. He sent men off to procure the hogs and fruit, which were taken to the beach the next morning; the captain was again brought on shore; I offered him three hogs for the gun itself, and four for a quantity of ammunition. This he readily accepted. Taking the gun we thought ourselves well equipped for action.During the time the ship remained in the harbor, we were catching hogs, and gathering fruit which we bartered away with the ship's company for such articles as we might desire.At the expiration of ten days, the captain signified to me his intention to leave the harbor, expressing a strong desire to assist us in getting away; this was altogether impossible, for we were most strictly watched. When the hour of their departure came, we with heart ready for bursting, bade them a cheerful farewell; apparently well pleased with the idea of remaining behind; this tended much towards insuring the confidence of the natives, which was now our principal object, so that at the arrival of the next ship, less vigilance would be observed, and we at length would be enabled to effect our escape. To this end we now used our whole endeavors, and strove as far as possible, to adopt their customs and notions as our own, and set about building huts for ourselves; in this we were assisted very much by the natives, who joyously received the idea of our building them, considering the act an indication of contentedness.The hut being finished, I went out in search of a wife, knowing thereby that we would also enjoy greater security as well as gain their confidence. Finding agroup of six or eight chewing carver I chatted with them awhile; when taking one of them, a girl of about sixteen, by the ear slightly, I signified to her my wish of her becoming my wife. She instantly left her business, and accompanied me to my hut. That was all the required ceremony.A man at any time getting dissatisfied with his wife, has only to lead her from the house, bid her go elsewhere, and take to himself another more suited to his fancy. Finding the one I had first chosen differing entirely from what I supposed, I made use of this prerogative, drove her from the house, and chose for myself a daughter of one of the chiefs, a girl of only thirteen years of age, with whom I lived during my residence on the island.Great was the astonishment of the natives when they saw us kill a hog, or any other animal at a distance, with our gun; and such was their fear of thepobohe, as they termed it, that they would scarcely come near it, much less touch it; this was a very happy circumstance for us, and we indulged them in their fear, hoping that by so doing, to retain the exclusive control of it ourselves, and thereby gain notoriety among them as warriors.Each day we went to the battle field, but seldom would the enemy meet us there. One morning taking a quantity of junk lead, which we brought instead of balls, we cut it into small pieces, or slugs, intending to use two or three at a time; we proceeded to the battle field with only a few of the warriors. On our arrival we gave one yell or whoop, to apprise the enemy of our presence in the field. From the eminence we occupied,we could overlook the valley of the Cohaphas. They wishing to appear as not at all fearful of us, commenced dancing, and singing loudly, still they dare not meet us in the field.Noyce being the best marksman, took charge of the gun, while I carried the ammunition; as before remarked, the gun was a very poor one, and would have been under other circumstances condemned as unfit for use. Oftentimes it could not be made to go off except I applied a torch to it while Noyce took aim. I usually carried fire with me in the husks of the cocoa-nut. We stole cautiously down the hill, until we were within reach of them. Secreting ourselves behind a bunch of reeds, we opened our fire upon them, gave them two or three charges, which made them dance still more lively. On the first discharge we wounded one man in the leg, who fell upon the ground, rolling and kicking around most violently, at the same time yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile; the others, altogether ignorant of the cause, gathered around to learn it if possible; this we demonstrated to them by the two succeeding shots, in a most lively manner, which caused them to yell still louder than before. Throwing the wounded upon their shoulders they fled with the greatest precipitancy; we followed closely with a few of our slugs, but were unable to reach them.On gaining the eminence occupied by our warriors, they were overjoyed at our success, falling at our feet in token of reverence, and on our return to the bay, most loudly were our efforts extolled by them.Many days now passed without our seeing an enemy, though we visited the field nearly every day. At lengththey ventured to make another attack upon our bay on a bright moonlight night, at a late hour, probably supposing us all asleep, but Noyce being on watch, saw them cautiously approaching our shores, gave the alarm, and the whole tribe secreted themselves in the groves, and waited their approach; when near enough, and in the right position, we gave them what is termed a raking shot; finding themselves foiled in their attempt, they instantly turned and fled the harbor. So near were they, we could plainly see the destruction we had made; three were wounded, one of them desperately. So heavily was the gun loaded, that it came near killing Noyce, who was thrown with a great force upon the ground, by its violent kicking. This attempt though unsuccessful, altogether called out the power of the tribe, and they immediately set about preparing for a grand attack upon the Cohaphas. The preparation for the attack occupied several days; spears and clubs were brought forward, and examined; those unfit for use were broken and thrown aside, and others made to supply their place. The warriors decorated themselves with feathers, and other things in a most gaudy manner. All who were able to bear arms were called to prepare for the attack. When collected, they presented a sight truly imposing. "Their lofty head-dresses made of feathers, gleaming like helmets in the brightness of the sun, and tossing proudly in the wind, with the motion of their bold gait,—their naked and brawny limbs,—their savage trappings, converted them for the moment into seeming giants."The most hideously painted, and powerfully equipped North American Indian, would fail in a comparisonwith one of these, as a fearful and majestic warrior. They rushed forward with shouts of exultation and joy, exclaiming, in tones of heart-felt triumph, as they went rapidly through the action of an onset,—throwing themselves in every wild and threatening attitude,—scowling with looks of deathly fierceness and revenge,—brandishing their spears and clubs in the air."Cohapha, Cohapha, te hannah Muckey, Cohapha," or Death to the Cohaphas.We proceeded on the valley through which a small rivulet courses itself, which is thickly clustered "with trees, whose lofty tops so thickly interlace each other, as to completely embower the whole glen; and the rays of the torrid sun beneath which we had been marching, instead of striking us with a scorching glare, fell in such rich and grateful mellowness on the group below, as to seem but the moonlight of a fairy land; the illusion of which, the sound of water had but little tendency to break."Our army consisted of about three hundred able warriors, armed with clubs and spears, all with eager strides rushing on to meet the enemy. We at length reached the top of the mountain which separates the two tribes, and which also constituted the battle ground. Until we arrived there, no regular order was observed. The warriors were then divided into three companies, or divisions, leaving Noyce and myself to act for ourselves. Again we crawled unobserved down the hill, till we came within a few rods of the enemy. We loaded our gun as heavily as we dared do, putting seven slugs in it, meaning to do the principal work with the first shot, as they would probably retreat immediately, and notgive us an opportunity of firing again. All things in readiness, we softly crept a few rods nearer, and, as they were standing close together, (in consultation no doubt respecting an engagement, as our men were seen upon the field,) we discharged our battery upon them. Great was the havoc we made with a single shot, killing two and wounding three more. Among the wounded was the celebrated chief, Cappayoho, noted among all tribes for his great daring and cunningness in battle.We returned to the point occupied by our men, who had watched our movements and saw the execution of our only shot. Meanwhile our warriors had succeeded in taking the persons of three of the enemy. This to them was true revenge: to simply kill was no revenge at all; that alone consisted in disjointing the enemy, and tearing the flesh from his bones by the morsel.We were held in great estimation among them as warriors. We returned to the valley with shouts and songs of triumph; those who were infirm, and unable to join in the battle, with the women and children, met us as we came near home, and joined in the exclamation of joy.As was often the case, Noyce and myself one day strolled far away from home into the mountain, taking our gun with us as a constant companion, when, wearied with walking in the noonday sun, we had retired beneath the shade of a large tree. I had seated myself upon a little rise of ground, while Noyce was standing by me in the attitude so common to huntsmen, viz., that of standing with his hands upon the gun, and resting his chin upon his hands, musing upon our situation and probable destiny, when our reverie was broken by thesharp report of a gun near by. I sprang to my feet with my legs completely covered with blood. Noyce brought the gun into requisition for defence. Soon we saw the head of a native within a very few feet, peering up above the grass, in which he had secreted himself to catch a glimpse of us. Noyce discharged his gun immediately, and two slugs entered his head above the right eye, and came out at the back of the left ear; he died without a gasp. On arriving at him, we found he had a beautiful gun of French manufacture, of which I took possession. This occasioned great surprise with us, as we supposed we were in possession of the only gun on the island. We afterwards ascertained, however, that a French ship visiting the island, coming in upon the other side, for sandal wood, had sold ten or twelve to the different tribes; only one, however, had been sold to the Cohaphas, and that to rather an obscure individual who lived by himself in the mountain principally, yet considered himself as belonging to the Cohaphas. We made a knife of bamboo, with which we extracted the shot from my legs, or a portion of it; some, however, remains to the present time, and can still be felt.Raising the body upon our shoulders, we hastened to our tribe. When we made known our adventure, throwing down the body as proof before them, their joy knew no bounds. As a reward, the king gave us twenty-five trees each, banana and bread-fruit, which were by them considered quite a wealth.The body, taken as it was, was considered worthy special manifestations of joy and triumph. Accordingly it was prepared for the feast; other necessaries werealso furnished, consisting of fruits and carver in great abundance.The stillness of the night was broken by the loud shouting, singing, &c. The body was taken from the oven and placed upon the table. The whole tribe set up a whoro whoro, or loud singing, which was echoed back from the hills like a thousand thunders. The war dance was performed, I think, with greater eagerness than ever before. Torches, made by stringing the amer nut on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, were placed around on all sides, rendering the whole scene as lightsome as noonday. This continued till morning, when they dispersed. Of the grandeur of such a scene the reader can form no definite idea at all, however much the pen may labor in its description.About twelve months after our landing on the island, the ship Pacific, of Nantucket, came to anchor in our bay. Of those on board we obtained a supply of ammunition, giving in exchange our usual barter—hogs and fruit. At the expiration of thirteen days, the ship left the harbor, and we were again doomed to see our friends depart, leaving us behind on those desolate shores.When we first saw her sails before the breeze nearing our shore, Hope pointed us to it as a means of escape; but in that we were doomed to disappointment, being most strictly watched by the natives. No pen can describe with any degree of accuracy our feelings at that time, deserted as it were by our fellowmen, and shut out from the world, perhaps forever! With a determination to acquit ourselves as became our situation, weassumed an air of cheerfulness, and went about our business.The battle field was still visited; but none had been taken or killed since the time of my being shot. One day a company of us were out getting carver; we had secured a quantity, which we had fastened to our backs, and were returning, when, my load getting misplaced, I stopped to fix it; the others meanwhile continued slowly on. When I had adjusted my load and was starting, a huge hog, with open mouth, stood in my path. He gave one spring, or bound, and made for me. Throwing off my carver, I ran a few rods, turned my eye back, found the hog following closely, and was evidently gaining upon me. I gave a loud whoop, which was answered by my companions. I could see no chance of escape from him except by jumping a precipice of about ninety feet, to which I found myself hastening. This I looked upon as almost certain destruction; but to be overtaken by the hog was sure death: thus having no alternative, I taxed my every nerve and rushed forward, gave a spring to carry me beyond the trees and points of rock which might be in the way. I landed in a cluster of tall reeds and grass which bent with my weight and eased me down without injury, save a few slight scratches. My first thought on landing was of the hog, whether he had also jumped; but he wisely searched for other prey.To find my way back, over rocks, through briars and obstacles of all kinds, was no easy task, besides I was in much danger of being captured by some prowling Cohaphas.ESCAPE FROM A HOG.After much difficulty I succeeded in reaching the Bay of Ooro, a small bay belonging to the Teheda, where I related my adventure with the hog, which caused a hearty laugh. Getting some refreshments, I started for home by a path which led over the bluff. As I entered the village, I was met by Noyce and the natives who had accompanied me in the morning. Great was their astonishment when they saw me, for they supposed by the whoop I gave that I had fallen into the hands of the Cohaphas, and had on that account given them an opportunity of manifesting their cannibal joy over a fallen enemy.Great joy was manifested by other members of the tribe for my return. The sorcerer, or doctor, applied carver to my wounds, saying I should not be killed by a hog or a Cohapha, but should live to a good old age among the Teheda. If I had been killed by jumping the precipice, or had been devoured by the hog, they would have cared but little, in comparison with the idea of my falling a victim to the blood-thirsty Cohaphas.The war with the Cohaphas lasted nearly a year, when, one morning at a very early hour, a message came from them, saying the "King of the Cohaphas wished for peace, for thoseveneies, or devils, (as they called us,) were killing all the Cohaphas with their Pobohe." Our king drew himself up at full length, and with a significant expression of countenance said: "The King of the Cohaphas commenced; the King of the Teheda will end. If he has done enough we will give him peace; but if not—if he still thirsts for blood, we will kill all of them, as we did the Whi's;" a tribe of that name who lived about two miles from us, who committed some misdemeanor upon our tribe, at which theking became enraged, and in a single night killed them all, amounting to about 500. Their bodies were thrown in a pile, where their bones still whiten the sand. I have often visited the spot, which can truly be called "the place of skulls." Bones of all sizes, from the tender infant who nestled in its mother's arms, to the stout, athletic warrior, are strewn upon the ground. The messenger returned to his king, and peace was established.

CHAPTER VII.Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of theTabuground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of building. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken around to the other tribes. Death of one of our number from the sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of.The next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on shore. As we reached the beach, found it lined with natives. Seeing no weapons, we asked by signs for permission to land. This was readily obtained.The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives was formed on each side, who laid hold of the gunwales and carried boat and crew up about twice the length of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it down. The treatment that was in store for us was quite a query.Getting out of the boat we were examined from head to foot, being turned around and around, they during the survey chattering among themselves with great volubility.They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu ground, and were a long time in consultation, leaving us standing by ourselves on the beach. The tabu ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with posts which are wound around with the inner or fine bark of a tree called Tappa, which is thin and white.It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground around. Against this bark flat stones about two feet long are set on the end, nearly as thick as they can stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross legged on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made of flat stones, on which the food at the time of the grand feast is placed. All public business is transacted here.RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.THE TABU GROUND.After a while they came running very fast towards us. By this we were fearful they intended us no good, but we were happily disappointed. They seemed fully to realize the nature of our situation, and immediately set themselves about ameliorating our condition and rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of such as they had—bread fruit—banannas—raw fish, &c. Of the vegetables we ate plentifully; the raw fish being an entirely new dish, we passed it lightly by.Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and put at different families, where all seemed touched by the spirit of sympathy for our sufferings.The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with thePrua(or king) and chiefs repaired to the boats, and rowed around the point, about three miles, to where the vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so complete was the wreck that there was not enough left of her to leave even the least trace of a ship discernible.The rocks against which she struck were not low and shelving, as is many times the case, but high and bold, rising about fifty feet perpendicularly, and ranging a mile or two along the coast. The water at the very base is from fifty to seventy feet deep, thus leaving no place whatever for any thing to remain on them.Returning, our boat was taken as before, and landed above the washing of the sea, and when we got out, was turned over and the oars laid by for safety.Night coming on, we were again distributed around among the different families, where we were made welcome to all they had. Much time was spent in trying to make us understand them. This we could not do, except they could convey their ideas to our minds by signs.It may be well at this period of the adventure to give a description of the huts or houses, in order to get a more definite idea of the passing events.The front side and ends are made by driving posts or sticks of bamboo into the ground and secured by fastening a strong one across the top. The roof is made also of sticks of bamboo, serving as rafters, across which others are fastened, making it very strong indeed. The whole is then covered with several thicknesses of the largest outspread plantain leaves. These are also fastened by lashing bamboo across them, being entirely impervious to the rain. The roof on the front side extends to within about four feet of the ground, while on the back side it extends entirely to it.The door is merely an opening left between the bamboos, when in the progress of building.A wall made of flat stones about fifteen inches high, extending along the front side, occupies about two-thirds of the whole interior of the dwelling. On this wall, or floor, they perform all the labor of the family, such as preparing and eating their food. Their provision is served up in one common dish and placed on the floor,when all gather around, sitting cross legged, and each with his fingers helping himself.The remaining one-third is occupied as a bed. This is made of leaves and dried grass. The head, or that next the roof, is made about ten inches high, sloping gently down against the wall. Sometimes the whole is covered with coarse mats made of grass. The sleeper is obliged to lie on his back, placing his legs, from below the bend of the knee, on this wall. A severe penalty is attached to the act of placing a foot on, or throwing any thing on or across the bed. I have no recollection of the law's ever being enforced, and in fact I cannot say as I ever knew of its being broken, voluntarily, or otherwise than by accident, which, except by severely reprimanding the offender, was overlooked. Great precaution, however, is observed respecting it.At an early hour we were shown to our beds. The manner of lying was so unnatural that we could rest but little, longing continually for the approach of morning. Beside the awkward position in which we lay, we were continually annoyed by bugs and insects, with which the bed was literally filled.In the morning with the first ray of light we were out and upon the beach. Soon others of our ill-fated companions joined us, who, like ourselves, found much fault with their lodgings. Ere long the king and other natives came also upon the beach. While we were talking of our situation and prospects they would stand by with staring eyes and open mouths, seeming exceedingly anxious to understand our conversation.Their morning repast being ready we again returned to our respective homes.Our breakfast was composed of bread fruit, raw fish, &c., of which we partook with appetites sharpened by deprivation and fatigue.The natives usually bathe each morning, and often many times during the day near their huts, in a place most beautifully adapted to it.Out of the rock there pours a stream of clear, cold water, about six inches in diameter, and twenty-five or thirty feet from the ground, which falls into a kind of basin from whence it runs into the sea.Under this the natives jump and most effectually shower themselves. Should the water coming that distance strike them before it was broken or separated, they could not stand its force; but such is not the case, as it breaks soon after leaving the rock, and falls upon a large surface with but little force.To this spring ships often come for supplies of water, as there can be none better found, besides, the quantity wanted is easily obtained.The bread fruit in its various forms constitutes the principal article of food among them, and is found in great abundance. There are two crops in a year; one in May, the other in November. The greater reliance, however, is placed upon the May crop, which ripens much the best. The November crop, or what can be spared of it, is collected and baked in an Euma or oven, which is a large hole dug in the earth about two feet deep, and from two to five feet across, according to the quantity to be baked. Large flat stones are placed on the bottom, on which a fire is kindled; smaller stones are placed in the fire, which, becoming heated, are removed, the embers nicely cleared out, the stones arethen covered with large green plantain leaves, the fruit also wrapped in leaves, put in, and the small heated stones put over. Water is thrown on to create a steam and the whole hastily covered with earth. After being baked, the covering of earth and stones is removed, the rind or shell scraped off, and the meat wrapped closely in leaves is placed in a large hole in the ground dug for the purpose, being placed so they will not touch each other. After the first layer is placed, a quantity of leaves are strewn over and another layer put on. Thus they proceed until the hole is full, when it is covered with earth and kept in case of a failure of the next or any other crop. It will keep so for a great length of time. One hole, while I was there, was found accidentally which was not filled within the recollection of any then living, and yet the fruit was in a perfect state and as sweet as when put there. Fruit thus prepared is called May. But if intended for the family's immediate use, the rind is also scraped off, when it is pounded to a jelly and mixed with water. This is calledPoe, and is taken from the dish by the two first fingers, called "poe-fingers," which are thrust into it and twirled swiftly around the poe. Being of the consistency of paste it adheres to the finger and is thrown into the mouth. The hands are always washed, both before and after eating. Any person not doing this is driven from the dish to eat alone, as being unfit to eat there; though that seldom happens, such laws, or customs being most strictly adhered to.As a drink, they use very freely an article calledCarver, which is made from a root found in the uplands. After being dug or pulled it is chewed by thefemales and put in a calabash of water, when it ferments, then it is strained through long grass and is fit for use. This, if drank in copious draughts, causes a dizziness and a horribly distorted countenance. They lose the use of their limbs, and fall and roll about on the ground, until the stupefaction wears away.The Carver is much used for medical purposes, being very efficacious in its results. If it is taken in great quantities, the skin becomes dry and parched, and peals off, like the effects of the sun's heat upon the hand or neck, leaving an entirely new and smooth surface—completely renovating the entire system.During my stay there I was bitten by a Centipede on the ball of my thumb. The Serrever or doctor put me to bed, upon my back, as was always the position for lying, fastened my hand up to the roof of the hut, and secured a bark, in a dish-like form, around the wrist, into which he poured carver. In the morning the pain was entirely removed, and I suffered no farther inconvenience from it. The bite from them often results in death.One curious fact respecting it is, that when chewed by the natives, it comes from the mouth dry like meal from the mill. This I often attempted to perform, but was not able to do it.The females usually prepare it, though they are prohibited its use. During my stay I knew of but one or two instances of a violation of that law.We loitered around the island altogether discontented. I think, however, we might have lived a few days among them tolerably well, had not the idea of our beingobliged to do so, with no means of getting away, been so terribly impressed upon the mind.We visited most of the families in the valley, and at each saw new scenes. Some were making poe, others braiding mats, while some were making tappa, oars, spears, &c.In our rambles we were always accompanied by a score of natives, who followed us at a little distance, watching our every movement. In one instance we came to an orange grove, where we stopped to pick some of the fruit. They came running furiously to us, crying "tabu! tabu!!" at the top of their voices, and taking the fruit from us, drew us from the spot. This puzzled us not a little. We soon learned, however, that they had been reserved by the king for some special purpose, who hadtabuedthem, or placed such restrictions upon them, that no one of the tribe dare touch them, it being considered a great offence.The Captain being altogether sick of such a life, proposed going to Otaheite in the open boat. He urged no one to go with him, but simply proposed the thing, kindly offering to share his last morsel with those who should be disposed to undertake it with him. One after another acceded to his proposition, until all, save myself and two others, Dawson, a native of Liverpool, England, and Noyce, of Albany, New York,—had pledged themselves to go. We knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking at that season of the year, especially, when violent tornadoes swept over that portion of the seas, accompanied with heavy rains, would not consent to go, choosing rather to remain with the natives and run the risk of our ever getting away.The natives were apprised of their wish to go, when they immediately repaired to the mountains, got them small pigs, a quantity of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, &c., also a few calabashes of water.With the most sanguine expectations they started, having nothing to guide them but a small boat compass, and promising to return and take us away. Of this we had no hopes, believing it would be an adventure of constant and unmitigated suffering, terminating in death.We watched them as long as discernible from the beach, when, unwilling to lose sight of them, we ascended a high bluff, where with straining eyes we anxiously followed them, till by night and distance, they were entirely excluded.With heavy hearts we returned to the valley, determined to conform, in every instance, to their whims and notions, however humiliating, hoping by so doing to obtain their confidence, which would be of vast importance to us.After a few days spent among them, in which we most scrutinizingly watched their every movement, we were taken around to the other valleys or tribes.The island is composed of high bluffs, running from the water inland. Between each mountain or bluff is a low fertile valley through which a small rivulet courses itself. The banks are lined with orange groves, bread fruit trees and plantains, &c., which grow in the greatest luxuriance. These valleys are occupied by different tribes, each bearing a mark peculiar to themselves. Some bear it upon the hands, others upon the face, breast, &c. The tribe with which I was connectedbore it upon the hands, wrists and ancles. This was the largest tribe on the island, called the Teheda.Each tribe which we visited were exceedingly joyous at our approach, gathering around and examining us minutely, and almost deafening us with their confounded gibbering.At night the huts in which we stayed were filled to overflowing, so eager were they to see the "Tehoary" or white man, as they called us.We went on day after day. On the seventh day Dawson was taken sick through the influence of the sun upon his head, or correctly speaking, was sun struck. At mid-day he would be raving, so much so, as to render it extremely difficult to take care of him. Destitute as we were of medicine and medical skill, we could do but little for him. As the day advanced and the sun declined, he would be more quiet, and remain so until its approach the next day, when he was again delirious. On the fourth day he expired in the most excruciating agony.We had seen death seize upon his victims in almost every form, but never before had he approached seemingly so near.As a last sad office to be performed to our departed friend, we set about digging a grave, as best we could with our rude implements of digging.This was not allowed by the natives, who wished to take charge of it according to their own notions, which was to wind the body closely with the fine or inner bark of the Tappa, a tree much resembling the paper mulberry, this to be wound ten or fifteen times around.The body was then taken to a small uninhabited hutand placed upon a bench, or table, made by driving sticks of bamboo into the ground, across the top of which others are fastened, and interlaid, thus forming a table about two feet high. On this the body was placed, where it was to remain until it should moulder and crumble away.The bodies of friends are many times thus wound, and hung by a loop worked ingeniously in the covering on the top of the head, to the ridge of the house in which they live, where it remains a considerable time, when it is taken down, divested of its covering, and placed in the sun, when the outer surface, or skin, parches, and is easily rubbed off, which is done with the hand. The entrails are then removed, the body cleanly washed out, and again wound as before, and hung in its former place, where it remains until it literally falls in pieces. I have in one or two instances seen several hanging in one house, completely filling the house in and around, with the most offensive odor, yet they live unmindful of it.The bodies of kings and those of the royal family are placed, after being wound as before described, in a hut erected on purpose, on or near the tabu ground, in a sitting posture, with the arms raised, the elbow bent to an angle, and supported by sticks of bamboo, driven in the earth. On either side is a man placed, who are taken in war, or stolen from some neighboring tribe, and sacrificed for the purpose, also wound in bark. These are supposed to accompany them in the capacity of servants.At the expiration of three weeks we returned to our own tribe where we were most cordially received.On our arrival we were separated from each other, and not allowed to meet but very seldom. If by chance however we stole together, we were instantly torn apart.Being thus obliged to converse in their language, if at all, enabled us, at the expiration of some three or four months, to speak it tolerably well.This deprivation, change of diet, and the probability of our being forever doomed to dwell among them, tended much to impair our health.Our principal occupation was to gather the bread fruit, prepare and roast it.

Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of theTabuground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of building. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken around to the other tribes. Death of one of our number from the sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of.

The next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on shore. As we reached the beach, found it lined with natives. Seeing no weapons, we asked by signs for permission to land. This was readily obtained.

The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives was formed on each side, who laid hold of the gunwales and carried boat and crew up about twice the length of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it down. The treatment that was in store for us was quite a query.

Getting out of the boat we were examined from head to foot, being turned around and around, they during the survey chattering among themselves with great volubility.

They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu ground, and were a long time in consultation, leaving us standing by ourselves on the beach. The tabu ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with posts which are wound around with the inner or fine bark of a tree called Tappa, which is thin and white.

It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground around. Against this bark flat stones about two feet long are set on the end, nearly as thick as they can stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross legged on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made of flat stones, on which the food at the time of the grand feast is placed. All public business is transacted here.

RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.

RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.

RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.

THE TABU GROUND.

THE TABU GROUND.

THE TABU GROUND.

After a while they came running very fast towards us. By this we were fearful they intended us no good, but we were happily disappointed. They seemed fully to realize the nature of our situation, and immediately set themselves about ameliorating our condition and rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of such as they had—bread fruit—banannas—raw fish, &c. Of the vegetables we ate plentifully; the raw fish being an entirely new dish, we passed it lightly by.

Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and put at different families, where all seemed touched by the spirit of sympathy for our sufferings.

The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with thePrua(or king) and chiefs repaired to the boats, and rowed around the point, about three miles, to where the vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so complete was the wreck that there was not enough left of her to leave even the least trace of a ship discernible.

The rocks against which she struck were not low and shelving, as is many times the case, but high and bold, rising about fifty feet perpendicularly, and ranging a mile or two along the coast. The water at the very base is from fifty to seventy feet deep, thus leaving no place whatever for any thing to remain on them.

Returning, our boat was taken as before, and landed above the washing of the sea, and when we got out, was turned over and the oars laid by for safety.

Night coming on, we were again distributed around among the different families, where we were made welcome to all they had. Much time was spent in trying to make us understand them. This we could not do, except they could convey their ideas to our minds by signs.

It may be well at this period of the adventure to give a description of the huts or houses, in order to get a more definite idea of the passing events.

The front side and ends are made by driving posts or sticks of bamboo into the ground and secured by fastening a strong one across the top. The roof is made also of sticks of bamboo, serving as rafters, across which others are fastened, making it very strong indeed. The whole is then covered with several thicknesses of the largest outspread plantain leaves. These are also fastened by lashing bamboo across them, being entirely impervious to the rain. The roof on the front side extends to within about four feet of the ground, while on the back side it extends entirely to it.

The door is merely an opening left between the bamboos, when in the progress of building.

A wall made of flat stones about fifteen inches high, extending along the front side, occupies about two-thirds of the whole interior of the dwelling. On this wall, or floor, they perform all the labor of the family, such as preparing and eating their food. Their provision is served up in one common dish and placed on the floor,when all gather around, sitting cross legged, and each with his fingers helping himself.

The remaining one-third is occupied as a bed. This is made of leaves and dried grass. The head, or that next the roof, is made about ten inches high, sloping gently down against the wall. Sometimes the whole is covered with coarse mats made of grass. The sleeper is obliged to lie on his back, placing his legs, from below the bend of the knee, on this wall. A severe penalty is attached to the act of placing a foot on, or throwing any thing on or across the bed. I have no recollection of the law's ever being enforced, and in fact I cannot say as I ever knew of its being broken, voluntarily, or otherwise than by accident, which, except by severely reprimanding the offender, was overlooked. Great precaution, however, is observed respecting it.

At an early hour we were shown to our beds. The manner of lying was so unnatural that we could rest but little, longing continually for the approach of morning. Beside the awkward position in which we lay, we were continually annoyed by bugs and insects, with which the bed was literally filled.

In the morning with the first ray of light we were out and upon the beach. Soon others of our ill-fated companions joined us, who, like ourselves, found much fault with their lodgings. Ere long the king and other natives came also upon the beach. While we were talking of our situation and prospects they would stand by with staring eyes and open mouths, seeming exceedingly anxious to understand our conversation.

Their morning repast being ready we again returned to our respective homes.

Our breakfast was composed of bread fruit, raw fish, &c., of which we partook with appetites sharpened by deprivation and fatigue.

The natives usually bathe each morning, and often many times during the day near their huts, in a place most beautifully adapted to it.

Out of the rock there pours a stream of clear, cold water, about six inches in diameter, and twenty-five or thirty feet from the ground, which falls into a kind of basin from whence it runs into the sea.

Under this the natives jump and most effectually shower themselves. Should the water coming that distance strike them before it was broken or separated, they could not stand its force; but such is not the case, as it breaks soon after leaving the rock, and falls upon a large surface with but little force.

To this spring ships often come for supplies of water, as there can be none better found, besides, the quantity wanted is easily obtained.

The bread fruit in its various forms constitutes the principal article of food among them, and is found in great abundance. There are two crops in a year; one in May, the other in November. The greater reliance, however, is placed upon the May crop, which ripens much the best. The November crop, or what can be spared of it, is collected and baked in an Euma or oven, which is a large hole dug in the earth about two feet deep, and from two to five feet across, according to the quantity to be baked. Large flat stones are placed on the bottom, on which a fire is kindled; smaller stones are placed in the fire, which, becoming heated, are removed, the embers nicely cleared out, the stones arethen covered with large green plantain leaves, the fruit also wrapped in leaves, put in, and the small heated stones put over. Water is thrown on to create a steam and the whole hastily covered with earth. After being baked, the covering of earth and stones is removed, the rind or shell scraped off, and the meat wrapped closely in leaves is placed in a large hole in the ground dug for the purpose, being placed so they will not touch each other. After the first layer is placed, a quantity of leaves are strewn over and another layer put on. Thus they proceed until the hole is full, when it is covered with earth and kept in case of a failure of the next or any other crop. It will keep so for a great length of time. One hole, while I was there, was found accidentally which was not filled within the recollection of any then living, and yet the fruit was in a perfect state and as sweet as when put there. Fruit thus prepared is called May. But if intended for the family's immediate use, the rind is also scraped off, when it is pounded to a jelly and mixed with water. This is calledPoe, and is taken from the dish by the two first fingers, called "poe-fingers," which are thrust into it and twirled swiftly around the poe. Being of the consistency of paste it adheres to the finger and is thrown into the mouth. The hands are always washed, both before and after eating. Any person not doing this is driven from the dish to eat alone, as being unfit to eat there; though that seldom happens, such laws, or customs being most strictly adhered to.

As a drink, they use very freely an article calledCarver, which is made from a root found in the uplands. After being dug or pulled it is chewed by thefemales and put in a calabash of water, when it ferments, then it is strained through long grass and is fit for use. This, if drank in copious draughts, causes a dizziness and a horribly distorted countenance. They lose the use of their limbs, and fall and roll about on the ground, until the stupefaction wears away.

The Carver is much used for medical purposes, being very efficacious in its results. If it is taken in great quantities, the skin becomes dry and parched, and peals off, like the effects of the sun's heat upon the hand or neck, leaving an entirely new and smooth surface—completely renovating the entire system.

During my stay there I was bitten by a Centipede on the ball of my thumb. The Serrever or doctor put me to bed, upon my back, as was always the position for lying, fastened my hand up to the roof of the hut, and secured a bark, in a dish-like form, around the wrist, into which he poured carver. In the morning the pain was entirely removed, and I suffered no farther inconvenience from it. The bite from them often results in death.

One curious fact respecting it is, that when chewed by the natives, it comes from the mouth dry like meal from the mill. This I often attempted to perform, but was not able to do it.

The females usually prepare it, though they are prohibited its use. During my stay I knew of but one or two instances of a violation of that law.

We loitered around the island altogether discontented. I think, however, we might have lived a few days among them tolerably well, had not the idea of our beingobliged to do so, with no means of getting away, been so terribly impressed upon the mind.

We visited most of the families in the valley, and at each saw new scenes. Some were making poe, others braiding mats, while some were making tappa, oars, spears, &c.

In our rambles we were always accompanied by a score of natives, who followed us at a little distance, watching our every movement. In one instance we came to an orange grove, where we stopped to pick some of the fruit. They came running furiously to us, crying "tabu! tabu!!" at the top of their voices, and taking the fruit from us, drew us from the spot. This puzzled us not a little. We soon learned, however, that they had been reserved by the king for some special purpose, who hadtabuedthem, or placed such restrictions upon them, that no one of the tribe dare touch them, it being considered a great offence.

The Captain being altogether sick of such a life, proposed going to Otaheite in the open boat. He urged no one to go with him, but simply proposed the thing, kindly offering to share his last morsel with those who should be disposed to undertake it with him. One after another acceded to his proposition, until all, save myself and two others, Dawson, a native of Liverpool, England, and Noyce, of Albany, New York,—had pledged themselves to go. We knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking at that season of the year, especially, when violent tornadoes swept over that portion of the seas, accompanied with heavy rains, would not consent to go, choosing rather to remain with the natives and run the risk of our ever getting away.

The natives were apprised of their wish to go, when they immediately repaired to the mountains, got them small pigs, a quantity of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, &c., also a few calabashes of water.

With the most sanguine expectations they started, having nothing to guide them but a small boat compass, and promising to return and take us away. Of this we had no hopes, believing it would be an adventure of constant and unmitigated suffering, terminating in death.

We watched them as long as discernible from the beach, when, unwilling to lose sight of them, we ascended a high bluff, where with straining eyes we anxiously followed them, till by night and distance, they were entirely excluded.

With heavy hearts we returned to the valley, determined to conform, in every instance, to their whims and notions, however humiliating, hoping by so doing to obtain their confidence, which would be of vast importance to us.

After a few days spent among them, in which we most scrutinizingly watched their every movement, we were taken around to the other valleys or tribes.

The island is composed of high bluffs, running from the water inland. Between each mountain or bluff is a low fertile valley through which a small rivulet courses itself. The banks are lined with orange groves, bread fruit trees and plantains, &c., which grow in the greatest luxuriance. These valleys are occupied by different tribes, each bearing a mark peculiar to themselves. Some bear it upon the hands, others upon the face, breast, &c. The tribe with which I was connectedbore it upon the hands, wrists and ancles. This was the largest tribe on the island, called the Teheda.

Each tribe which we visited were exceedingly joyous at our approach, gathering around and examining us minutely, and almost deafening us with their confounded gibbering.

At night the huts in which we stayed were filled to overflowing, so eager were they to see the "Tehoary" or white man, as they called us.

We went on day after day. On the seventh day Dawson was taken sick through the influence of the sun upon his head, or correctly speaking, was sun struck. At mid-day he would be raving, so much so, as to render it extremely difficult to take care of him. Destitute as we were of medicine and medical skill, we could do but little for him. As the day advanced and the sun declined, he would be more quiet, and remain so until its approach the next day, when he was again delirious. On the fourth day he expired in the most excruciating agony.

We had seen death seize upon his victims in almost every form, but never before had he approached seemingly so near.

As a last sad office to be performed to our departed friend, we set about digging a grave, as best we could with our rude implements of digging.

This was not allowed by the natives, who wished to take charge of it according to their own notions, which was to wind the body closely with the fine or inner bark of the Tappa, a tree much resembling the paper mulberry, this to be wound ten or fifteen times around.

The body was then taken to a small uninhabited hutand placed upon a bench, or table, made by driving sticks of bamboo into the ground, across the top of which others are fastened, and interlaid, thus forming a table about two feet high. On this the body was placed, where it was to remain until it should moulder and crumble away.

The bodies of friends are many times thus wound, and hung by a loop worked ingeniously in the covering on the top of the head, to the ridge of the house in which they live, where it remains a considerable time, when it is taken down, divested of its covering, and placed in the sun, when the outer surface, or skin, parches, and is easily rubbed off, which is done with the hand. The entrails are then removed, the body cleanly washed out, and again wound as before, and hung in its former place, where it remains until it literally falls in pieces. I have in one or two instances seen several hanging in one house, completely filling the house in and around, with the most offensive odor, yet they live unmindful of it.

The bodies of kings and those of the royal family are placed, after being wound as before described, in a hut erected on purpose, on or near the tabu ground, in a sitting posture, with the arms raised, the elbow bent to an angle, and supported by sticks of bamboo, driven in the earth. On either side is a man placed, who are taken in war, or stolen from some neighboring tribe, and sacrificed for the purpose, also wound in bark. These are supposed to accompany them in the capacity of servants.

At the expiration of three weeks we returned to our own tribe where we were most cordially received.

On our arrival we were separated from each other, and not allowed to meet but very seldom. If by chance however we stole together, we were instantly torn apart.

Being thus obliged to converse in their language, if at all, enabled us, at the expiration of some three or four months, to speak it tolerably well.

This deprivation, change of diet, and the probability of our being forever doomed to dwell among them, tended much to impair our health.

Our principal occupation was to gather the bread fruit, prepare and roast it.

CHAPTER VIII.A war breaks out. Its causes. Awful Massacre. The Author is tattooed. Manner of its accomplishment. An attack is made upon the Cohapha. Disposition of the prisoners. Continuance of the war. A ship comes to anchor. Our fond hopes blasted. Purchase a gun. Departure of the ship. The author builds a hut and takes a wife. Effect of the gun upon the Cohaphas. They attempt another night attack. Its results. The grand appearance of our army. Result of a single shot. The Author is wounded. Kill the native and take possession of the body and gun. The king rewards us. The body is roasted. Singular adventure with a wild hog. The Cohaphas wish for peace. The place of skulls. Peace is declared.We lived as happily as might be expected until the first of May, when a war broke out between our tribe and the Cohapha. These broils and dissensions existing between the different tribes, are often caused by some trivial affair, perhaps a trifling theft, an injury or insult offered an individual, the resentment of which calls the power of the whole tribe into action.Oftentimes the friendly visit of one party to another results in a fierce contest through some trifling circumstance by which they become embroiled, although the person injured or killed may have been greatly the aggressor.A king at death becomes a god, and is supposed to watch over the destiny of the tribe, and if there should any trouble exist, or a scarcity of bread fruit, or of othercrops occur, he is supposed to be angry, and, to appease his anger, a sacrifice is made of one or more human beings, who, if they are at peace with the neighboring tribes, so as to render the capture of them in battle uncertain, are stolen. This last was the cause of the war in which our tribe at this time was engaged.A king dying in the Cohapha, rendered the seizure of victims from some other tribe necessary.Stealing into our bay at the dead of night, while all were fast in sleep, they cautiously entered the first huts they came to, and before the alarm could be given had killed and were carrying away twelve men, three women and two children.So expert were they that even their bodies could not be recovered.We being then at peace with all other tribes and fearing nothing, were consequently off our guard.This was within a very few feet of the hut in which I was sleeping, and when I reflect upon my own narrow escape, my blood almost chills in its current of life.A council of war was next morning called, when it was determined to put to death all not belonging to the tribe.Every thing now presented an aspect differing entirely from other days.Our great valley was now the scene of confusion. On every side were blood-thirsty warriors impatient for the contest to begin. War canoes were lashed together, clubs and spears put in order, and every man under arms.Such was now the issue, that Noyce and myself were called upon to decide whether we would bear the king'smark and join the tribe and assist in protecting the bay. This we would gladly have passed by, but there was no alternative, save in death and leaving the island. The latter would have been preferred had an opportunity presented itself.Consequently we were brought forward to be tattooed, which was done on the back of the hand, as seen in the Frontispiece.First an ink is made from the smoke of theAmer nut, which when ripe is about the size of the common filbert. These are strung on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, which when dry is hard and stiff. The larger end of this stem is placed in the ground, or in some manner so that it will stand erect, when the top end is lighted and burns freely. The stem of the leaf serves as wick. Over the blaze a piece of bark is held to collect the smoke. When a sufficient quantity is collected, it is put in water, thus forming an ink.The figure to be made is then traced on the desired spot, with a stick dipped in the ink. An instrument made by fastening six or eight small sharp fish bones to a stick, which in shape much resembles the gauge used in splitting straw, is dipped in the solution and driven into the flesh by means of a blow given with a short stick, thus forming a mark which cannot be obliterated.This was an operation indeed painful, especially so on the more sinewy parts of the hand. A long time elapsed before I could use my hands very much.A person thus marked is considered as the king's own private property, subject entirely to his control and disposition, and when bearing this mark can never desertthe tribe, for he would be as cruelly treated by the tribe he wishes to join, as by the deserted one, should he be taken, the penalty for which is death.All things being in readiness for the attack upon the Cohapha, for the purpose of recovering the loss of our men, we started. There were three parties of us. Noyce was with the king, I with the first chief, after whom we were respectively named, Capayoho, a warrior, Whooro, a good man.It was late in the evening when we started. The sky was clear, the stars shone unusually bright, as if approving our mission. So stilly they rowed, that not a noise was heard, save the surf dashing against the iron bound shore from the long and heavy regular swell of the sea. Not a word was heard, for every man knew his duty without an order.Thus we continued on in silence until we reached the bay. We neared the shore and landed about thirty men, a sufficient number being left with the boats.They had scarce left us when the whole welkin rang with loud shrieks; the war-whoop was sounded.Our men returned bringing with them ten men, four women and two children. Some were borne upon the backs of the captors, others were drawn upon the ground by the feet. They were brought alive, though their limbs were broken and their skulls badly fractured.Our canoes shoved off amid the groans of the dying and the shouts and songs of triumph of the captors. The next morning those that were brought alive, having in one or two instances returned to consciousness, were brought forward to the tabu ground, and fastenedwith the face towards a stake, driven in the ground for the purpose.The king then with a long pole, on the end of which is a wad, or tuft of hair, white as snow, which is the beard of some man, generally of their own tribe, who had lived to a great age, walks slowly around the stake followed by the chief, who carries a heavy war club, which he brandishes furiously about, at the same time chanting a kind of tune, in which he is joined by many of the tribe, who are all gathered around.After walking a few times around, the chief, quick as thought, gives the prisoner a blow upon the head, which at once puts an end to his existence; he was then unloosed from the stake, and prepared for the oven.A war dance was then performed around the body, accompanied with loud shouting, singing, and clapping of hands.The preparations were then made for roasting the bodies; the ovens were heated, bread fruit, and other things collected in great abundance; the bodies were brought forward, having the entrails removed, the legs bent upon the back, and fastened to the neck. Small hot stones were placed in the body, and the whole then placed in the ovens, as described. The time required for baking a body in that manner, does not exceed forty minutes.When the bodies are baked, they are removed from the oven to a table, where they are disjointed. A procession is then formed, headed by the king and chiefs, followed by the members of the royal family. A person selected for the purpose then follows with a calabash,filled with a portion of the body, also of the other articles prepared for the occasion.The procession is made up of all belonging to the tribe, and are marched amid loud shouting and singing to the place where the remains of the former kings lie, where the contents of the calabash is cast, saying, "there is some for you;" this is repeated at every feast, and often times at every meal, a bit is thrown into a calabash, (set on purpose), with the same feeling of dependence.In and around the houses of the gods, are bones of all shapes and kinds, of men, beasts, fowls, and fishes, beside great quantities of fruits of all kinds, which are carried there from time to time, and deposited with incantations.After the ceremony is over they are marched back and dispersed about the ground, each helping themselves as they wish. The grand feast is carried on with great glee, amid shouting, clapping of hands, blowing of shells, and a spirit of rivalry seemingly prevails among them in making the greatest noise, and in rejoicing the most over a fallen enemy. They eat as long as they can, when they join in the dance, or sink away into a senseless stupor, the cause of which, is, that on such occasions, they drink very freely indeed. This lasts from one half to an hour, when they again eat and drink, until the second and third stupor seizes upon them, which continues until the last morsel is eaten.In those feasts we were compelled to partake, which was greatly against our wishes; yet had we been unconscious of what the feast consisted, I think we wouldhave called it a most delicious morsel; and should any of my readers sit down to a dish nicely prepared, without knowing what it was, or supposing it something different, I think they would join with me in declaring it of the richest flavor.The war by land now commenced, and was carried forward with vigor, each day visiting the battle field, and trying in every way to entrap their enemies. Sometimes a week would pass, and they not get sight of them. As they fought with clubs principally, they could do nothing except in close combat; this the enemy avoided; if by chance one of them wandered off alone, he was almost sure to be taken, so much were our men on the alert.Noyce and myself, unaccustomed to the use of the spear or club, were allowed to stand neutral, this we continued to do for the space of five months.The ship Royal Sovereign, of London, came to anchor in our harbor for the purpose of getting provisions, water, &c. Soon as the ship was seen entering the harbor, we received strict orders not to step on board; also in our presence, the people were told to keep the strictest watch of us, lest we should escape. This suddenly put a damper on our hopes, for we had strongly hoped at its approach to find it a means of deliverance for us; foiled in this, we concluded to take no notice of it, but rather appear as if perfectly willing it should be so, and watch an opportunity when we could without suspicion on their part, secrete ourselves on board some other ship.Our apparently caring but little about the restrictions, tended much to enliven them; of this we made gooduse. Soon as the anchor was let go, the females plunged as usual into the water, and swam for the ship; that is their usual way, as the use of the boats are prohibited them. The captain lowered away his boat, and came for the shore; on his near approach he hailed for liberty to land. I stepped forward and gave him the desired permission; he seemed greatly surprised at hearing his own language spoken here, while there were no ships lying in the bay.At his calling loudly, on his landing, for the Englishman, who spoke to him, I came forward to them; he could hardly believe me to be one, for the scanty allowance of clothes with which I left the wreck, had long before fallen off, leaving me entirely naked, and exposed to the sun's scorching rays; besides, my long beard, and uncombed hair, rendered me in appearance scarce less than a savage.At the many inquiries he made respecting our situation, the natives standing by would say,yahah, or, what does he say? As this was done at every inquiry, I had to use much deception, telling them he wanted hogs, fruit, and water, and for him to solicit the natives to assist in procuring them.Having acquainted him respecting the war, I proposed to buy a gun and ammunition, if he had one to spare; he brought forward one, and I think the only one he had on board, and very poor at that, which he offered to sell me for hogs. I left him to consult the king, who stoutly refused to buy it; I labored much with him, telling him how many of the Cohaphas I could kill, and at a great distance too, which I measured off to him; at this he was greatly astonished, and immediatelyconsented to have me purchase it. He sent men off to procure the hogs and fruit, which were taken to the beach the next morning; the captain was again brought on shore; I offered him three hogs for the gun itself, and four for a quantity of ammunition. This he readily accepted. Taking the gun we thought ourselves well equipped for action.During the time the ship remained in the harbor, we were catching hogs, and gathering fruit which we bartered away with the ship's company for such articles as we might desire.At the expiration of ten days, the captain signified to me his intention to leave the harbor, expressing a strong desire to assist us in getting away; this was altogether impossible, for we were most strictly watched. When the hour of their departure came, we with heart ready for bursting, bade them a cheerful farewell; apparently well pleased with the idea of remaining behind; this tended much towards insuring the confidence of the natives, which was now our principal object, so that at the arrival of the next ship, less vigilance would be observed, and we at length would be enabled to effect our escape. To this end we now used our whole endeavors, and strove as far as possible, to adopt their customs and notions as our own, and set about building huts for ourselves; in this we were assisted very much by the natives, who joyously received the idea of our building them, considering the act an indication of contentedness.The hut being finished, I went out in search of a wife, knowing thereby that we would also enjoy greater security as well as gain their confidence. Finding agroup of six or eight chewing carver I chatted with them awhile; when taking one of them, a girl of about sixteen, by the ear slightly, I signified to her my wish of her becoming my wife. She instantly left her business, and accompanied me to my hut. That was all the required ceremony.A man at any time getting dissatisfied with his wife, has only to lead her from the house, bid her go elsewhere, and take to himself another more suited to his fancy. Finding the one I had first chosen differing entirely from what I supposed, I made use of this prerogative, drove her from the house, and chose for myself a daughter of one of the chiefs, a girl of only thirteen years of age, with whom I lived during my residence on the island.Great was the astonishment of the natives when they saw us kill a hog, or any other animal at a distance, with our gun; and such was their fear of thepobohe, as they termed it, that they would scarcely come near it, much less touch it; this was a very happy circumstance for us, and we indulged them in their fear, hoping that by so doing, to retain the exclusive control of it ourselves, and thereby gain notoriety among them as warriors.Each day we went to the battle field, but seldom would the enemy meet us there. One morning taking a quantity of junk lead, which we brought instead of balls, we cut it into small pieces, or slugs, intending to use two or three at a time; we proceeded to the battle field with only a few of the warriors. On our arrival we gave one yell or whoop, to apprise the enemy of our presence in the field. From the eminence we occupied,we could overlook the valley of the Cohaphas. They wishing to appear as not at all fearful of us, commenced dancing, and singing loudly, still they dare not meet us in the field.Noyce being the best marksman, took charge of the gun, while I carried the ammunition; as before remarked, the gun was a very poor one, and would have been under other circumstances condemned as unfit for use. Oftentimes it could not be made to go off except I applied a torch to it while Noyce took aim. I usually carried fire with me in the husks of the cocoa-nut. We stole cautiously down the hill, until we were within reach of them. Secreting ourselves behind a bunch of reeds, we opened our fire upon them, gave them two or three charges, which made them dance still more lively. On the first discharge we wounded one man in the leg, who fell upon the ground, rolling and kicking around most violently, at the same time yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile; the others, altogether ignorant of the cause, gathered around to learn it if possible; this we demonstrated to them by the two succeeding shots, in a most lively manner, which caused them to yell still louder than before. Throwing the wounded upon their shoulders they fled with the greatest precipitancy; we followed closely with a few of our slugs, but were unable to reach them.On gaining the eminence occupied by our warriors, they were overjoyed at our success, falling at our feet in token of reverence, and on our return to the bay, most loudly were our efforts extolled by them.Many days now passed without our seeing an enemy, though we visited the field nearly every day. At lengththey ventured to make another attack upon our bay on a bright moonlight night, at a late hour, probably supposing us all asleep, but Noyce being on watch, saw them cautiously approaching our shores, gave the alarm, and the whole tribe secreted themselves in the groves, and waited their approach; when near enough, and in the right position, we gave them what is termed a raking shot; finding themselves foiled in their attempt, they instantly turned and fled the harbor. So near were they, we could plainly see the destruction we had made; three were wounded, one of them desperately. So heavily was the gun loaded, that it came near killing Noyce, who was thrown with a great force upon the ground, by its violent kicking. This attempt though unsuccessful, altogether called out the power of the tribe, and they immediately set about preparing for a grand attack upon the Cohaphas. The preparation for the attack occupied several days; spears and clubs were brought forward, and examined; those unfit for use were broken and thrown aside, and others made to supply their place. The warriors decorated themselves with feathers, and other things in a most gaudy manner. All who were able to bear arms were called to prepare for the attack. When collected, they presented a sight truly imposing. "Their lofty head-dresses made of feathers, gleaming like helmets in the brightness of the sun, and tossing proudly in the wind, with the motion of their bold gait,—their naked and brawny limbs,—their savage trappings, converted them for the moment into seeming giants."The most hideously painted, and powerfully equipped North American Indian, would fail in a comparisonwith one of these, as a fearful and majestic warrior. They rushed forward with shouts of exultation and joy, exclaiming, in tones of heart-felt triumph, as they went rapidly through the action of an onset,—throwing themselves in every wild and threatening attitude,—scowling with looks of deathly fierceness and revenge,—brandishing their spears and clubs in the air."Cohapha, Cohapha, te hannah Muckey, Cohapha," or Death to the Cohaphas.We proceeded on the valley through which a small rivulet courses itself, which is thickly clustered "with trees, whose lofty tops so thickly interlace each other, as to completely embower the whole glen; and the rays of the torrid sun beneath which we had been marching, instead of striking us with a scorching glare, fell in such rich and grateful mellowness on the group below, as to seem but the moonlight of a fairy land; the illusion of which, the sound of water had but little tendency to break."Our army consisted of about three hundred able warriors, armed with clubs and spears, all with eager strides rushing on to meet the enemy. We at length reached the top of the mountain which separates the two tribes, and which also constituted the battle ground. Until we arrived there, no regular order was observed. The warriors were then divided into three companies, or divisions, leaving Noyce and myself to act for ourselves. Again we crawled unobserved down the hill, till we came within a few rods of the enemy. We loaded our gun as heavily as we dared do, putting seven slugs in it, meaning to do the principal work with the first shot, as they would probably retreat immediately, and notgive us an opportunity of firing again. All things in readiness, we softly crept a few rods nearer, and, as they were standing close together, (in consultation no doubt respecting an engagement, as our men were seen upon the field,) we discharged our battery upon them. Great was the havoc we made with a single shot, killing two and wounding three more. Among the wounded was the celebrated chief, Cappayoho, noted among all tribes for his great daring and cunningness in battle.We returned to the point occupied by our men, who had watched our movements and saw the execution of our only shot. Meanwhile our warriors had succeeded in taking the persons of three of the enemy. This to them was true revenge: to simply kill was no revenge at all; that alone consisted in disjointing the enemy, and tearing the flesh from his bones by the morsel.We were held in great estimation among them as warriors. We returned to the valley with shouts and songs of triumph; those who were infirm, and unable to join in the battle, with the women and children, met us as we came near home, and joined in the exclamation of joy.As was often the case, Noyce and myself one day strolled far away from home into the mountain, taking our gun with us as a constant companion, when, wearied with walking in the noonday sun, we had retired beneath the shade of a large tree. I had seated myself upon a little rise of ground, while Noyce was standing by me in the attitude so common to huntsmen, viz., that of standing with his hands upon the gun, and resting his chin upon his hands, musing upon our situation and probable destiny, when our reverie was broken by thesharp report of a gun near by. I sprang to my feet with my legs completely covered with blood. Noyce brought the gun into requisition for defence. Soon we saw the head of a native within a very few feet, peering up above the grass, in which he had secreted himself to catch a glimpse of us. Noyce discharged his gun immediately, and two slugs entered his head above the right eye, and came out at the back of the left ear; he died without a gasp. On arriving at him, we found he had a beautiful gun of French manufacture, of which I took possession. This occasioned great surprise with us, as we supposed we were in possession of the only gun on the island. We afterwards ascertained, however, that a French ship visiting the island, coming in upon the other side, for sandal wood, had sold ten or twelve to the different tribes; only one, however, had been sold to the Cohaphas, and that to rather an obscure individual who lived by himself in the mountain principally, yet considered himself as belonging to the Cohaphas. We made a knife of bamboo, with which we extracted the shot from my legs, or a portion of it; some, however, remains to the present time, and can still be felt.Raising the body upon our shoulders, we hastened to our tribe. When we made known our adventure, throwing down the body as proof before them, their joy knew no bounds. As a reward, the king gave us twenty-five trees each, banana and bread-fruit, which were by them considered quite a wealth.The body, taken as it was, was considered worthy special manifestations of joy and triumph. Accordingly it was prepared for the feast; other necessaries werealso furnished, consisting of fruits and carver in great abundance.The stillness of the night was broken by the loud shouting, singing, &c. The body was taken from the oven and placed upon the table. The whole tribe set up a whoro whoro, or loud singing, which was echoed back from the hills like a thousand thunders. The war dance was performed, I think, with greater eagerness than ever before. Torches, made by stringing the amer nut on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, were placed around on all sides, rendering the whole scene as lightsome as noonday. This continued till morning, when they dispersed. Of the grandeur of such a scene the reader can form no definite idea at all, however much the pen may labor in its description.About twelve months after our landing on the island, the ship Pacific, of Nantucket, came to anchor in our bay. Of those on board we obtained a supply of ammunition, giving in exchange our usual barter—hogs and fruit. At the expiration of thirteen days, the ship left the harbor, and we were again doomed to see our friends depart, leaving us behind on those desolate shores.When we first saw her sails before the breeze nearing our shore, Hope pointed us to it as a means of escape; but in that we were doomed to disappointment, being most strictly watched by the natives. No pen can describe with any degree of accuracy our feelings at that time, deserted as it were by our fellowmen, and shut out from the world, perhaps forever! With a determination to acquit ourselves as became our situation, weassumed an air of cheerfulness, and went about our business.The battle field was still visited; but none had been taken or killed since the time of my being shot. One day a company of us were out getting carver; we had secured a quantity, which we had fastened to our backs, and were returning, when, my load getting misplaced, I stopped to fix it; the others meanwhile continued slowly on. When I had adjusted my load and was starting, a huge hog, with open mouth, stood in my path. He gave one spring, or bound, and made for me. Throwing off my carver, I ran a few rods, turned my eye back, found the hog following closely, and was evidently gaining upon me. I gave a loud whoop, which was answered by my companions. I could see no chance of escape from him except by jumping a precipice of about ninety feet, to which I found myself hastening. This I looked upon as almost certain destruction; but to be overtaken by the hog was sure death: thus having no alternative, I taxed my every nerve and rushed forward, gave a spring to carry me beyond the trees and points of rock which might be in the way. I landed in a cluster of tall reeds and grass which bent with my weight and eased me down without injury, save a few slight scratches. My first thought on landing was of the hog, whether he had also jumped; but he wisely searched for other prey.To find my way back, over rocks, through briars and obstacles of all kinds, was no easy task, besides I was in much danger of being captured by some prowling Cohaphas.ESCAPE FROM A HOG.After much difficulty I succeeded in reaching the Bay of Ooro, a small bay belonging to the Teheda, where I related my adventure with the hog, which caused a hearty laugh. Getting some refreshments, I started for home by a path which led over the bluff. As I entered the village, I was met by Noyce and the natives who had accompanied me in the morning. Great was their astonishment when they saw me, for they supposed by the whoop I gave that I had fallen into the hands of the Cohaphas, and had on that account given them an opportunity of manifesting their cannibal joy over a fallen enemy.Great joy was manifested by other members of the tribe for my return. The sorcerer, or doctor, applied carver to my wounds, saying I should not be killed by a hog or a Cohapha, but should live to a good old age among the Teheda. If I had been killed by jumping the precipice, or had been devoured by the hog, they would have cared but little, in comparison with the idea of my falling a victim to the blood-thirsty Cohaphas.The war with the Cohaphas lasted nearly a year, when, one morning at a very early hour, a message came from them, saying the "King of the Cohaphas wished for peace, for thoseveneies, or devils, (as they called us,) were killing all the Cohaphas with their Pobohe." Our king drew himself up at full length, and with a significant expression of countenance said: "The King of the Cohaphas commenced; the King of the Teheda will end. If he has done enough we will give him peace; but if not—if he still thirsts for blood, we will kill all of them, as we did the Whi's;" a tribe of that name who lived about two miles from us, who committed some misdemeanor upon our tribe, at which theking became enraged, and in a single night killed them all, amounting to about 500. Their bodies were thrown in a pile, where their bones still whiten the sand. I have often visited the spot, which can truly be called "the place of skulls." Bones of all sizes, from the tender infant who nestled in its mother's arms, to the stout, athletic warrior, are strewn upon the ground. The messenger returned to his king, and peace was established.

A war breaks out. Its causes. Awful Massacre. The Author is tattooed. Manner of its accomplishment. An attack is made upon the Cohapha. Disposition of the prisoners. Continuance of the war. A ship comes to anchor. Our fond hopes blasted. Purchase a gun. Departure of the ship. The author builds a hut and takes a wife. Effect of the gun upon the Cohaphas. They attempt another night attack. Its results. The grand appearance of our army. Result of a single shot. The Author is wounded. Kill the native and take possession of the body and gun. The king rewards us. The body is roasted. Singular adventure with a wild hog. The Cohaphas wish for peace. The place of skulls. Peace is declared.

We lived as happily as might be expected until the first of May, when a war broke out between our tribe and the Cohapha. These broils and dissensions existing between the different tribes, are often caused by some trivial affair, perhaps a trifling theft, an injury or insult offered an individual, the resentment of which calls the power of the whole tribe into action.

Oftentimes the friendly visit of one party to another results in a fierce contest through some trifling circumstance by which they become embroiled, although the person injured or killed may have been greatly the aggressor.

A king at death becomes a god, and is supposed to watch over the destiny of the tribe, and if there should any trouble exist, or a scarcity of bread fruit, or of othercrops occur, he is supposed to be angry, and, to appease his anger, a sacrifice is made of one or more human beings, who, if they are at peace with the neighboring tribes, so as to render the capture of them in battle uncertain, are stolen. This last was the cause of the war in which our tribe at this time was engaged.

A king dying in the Cohapha, rendered the seizure of victims from some other tribe necessary.

Stealing into our bay at the dead of night, while all were fast in sleep, they cautiously entered the first huts they came to, and before the alarm could be given had killed and were carrying away twelve men, three women and two children.

So expert were they that even their bodies could not be recovered.

We being then at peace with all other tribes and fearing nothing, were consequently off our guard.

This was within a very few feet of the hut in which I was sleeping, and when I reflect upon my own narrow escape, my blood almost chills in its current of life.

A council of war was next morning called, when it was determined to put to death all not belonging to the tribe.

Every thing now presented an aspect differing entirely from other days.

Our great valley was now the scene of confusion. On every side were blood-thirsty warriors impatient for the contest to begin. War canoes were lashed together, clubs and spears put in order, and every man under arms.

Such was now the issue, that Noyce and myself were called upon to decide whether we would bear the king'smark and join the tribe and assist in protecting the bay. This we would gladly have passed by, but there was no alternative, save in death and leaving the island. The latter would have been preferred had an opportunity presented itself.

Consequently we were brought forward to be tattooed, which was done on the back of the hand, as seen in the Frontispiece.

First an ink is made from the smoke of theAmer nut, which when ripe is about the size of the common filbert. These are strung on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, which when dry is hard and stiff. The larger end of this stem is placed in the ground, or in some manner so that it will stand erect, when the top end is lighted and burns freely. The stem of the leaf serves as wick. Over the blaze a piece of bark is held to collect the smoke. When a sufficient quantity is collected, it is put in water, thus forming an ink.

The figure to be made is then traced on the desired spot, with a stick dipped in the ink. An instrument made by fastening six or eight small sharp fish bones to a stick, which in shape much resembles the gauge used in splitting straw, is dipped in the solution and driven into the flesh by means of a blow given with a short stick, thus forming a mark which cannot be obliterated.

This was an operation indeed painful, especially so on the more sinewy parts of the hand. A long time elapsed before I could use my hands very much.

A person thus marked is considered as the king's own private property, subject entirely to his control and disposition, and when bearing this mark can never desertthe tribe, for he would be as cruelly treated by the tribe he wishes to join, as by the deserted one, should he be taken, the penalty for which is death.

All things being in readiness for the attack upon the Cohapha, for the purpose of recovering the loss of our men, we started. There were three parties of us. Noyce was with the king, I with the first chief, after whom we were respectively named, Capayoho, a warrior, Whooro, a good man.

It was late in the evening when we started. The sky was clear, the stars shone unusually bright, as if approving our mission. So stilly they rowed, that not a noise was heard, save the surf dashing against the iron bound shore from the long and heavy regular swell of the sea. Not a word was heard, for every man knew his duty without an order.

Thus we continued on in silence until we reached the bay. We neared the shore and landed about thirty men, a sufficient number being left with the boats.

They had scarce left us when the whole welkin rang with loud shrieks; the war-whoop was sounded.

Our men returned bringing with them ten men, four women and two children. Some were borne upon the backs of the captors, others were drawn upon the ground by the feet. They were brought alive, though their limbs were broken and their skulls badly fractured.

Our canoes shoved off amid the groans of the dying and the shouts and songs of triumph of the captors. The next morning those that were brought alive, having in one or two instances returned to consciousness, were brought forward to the tabu ground, and fastenedwith the face towards a stake, driven in the ground for the purpose.

The king then with a long pole, on the end of which is a wad, or tuft of hair, white as snow, which is the beard of some man, generally of their own tribe, who had lived to a great age, walks slowly around the stake followed by the chief, who carries a heavy war club, which he brandishes furiously about, at the same time chanting a kind of tune, in which he is joined by many of the tribe, who are all gathered around.

After walking a few times around, the chief, quick as thought, gives the prisoner a blow upon the head, which at once puts an end to his existence; he was then unloosed from the stake, and prepared for the oven.

A war dance was then performed around the body, accompanied with loud shouting, singing, and clapping of hands.

The preparations were then made for roasting the bodies; the ovens were heated, bread fruit, and other things collected in great abundance; the bodies were brought forward, having the entrails removed, the legs bent upon the back, and fastened to the neck. Small hot stones were placed in the body, and the whole then placed in the ovens, as described. The time required for baking a body in that manner, does not exceed forty minutes.

When the bodies are baked, they are removed from the oven to a table, where they are disjointed. A procession is then formed, headed by the king and chiefs, followed by the members of the royal family. A person selected for the purpose then follows with a calabash,filled with a portion of the body, also of the other articles prepared for the occasion.

The procession is made up of all belonging to the tribe, and are marched amid loud shouting and singing to the place where the remains of the former kings lie, where the contents of the calabash is cast, saying, "there is some for you;" this is repeated at every feast, and often times at every meal, a bit is thrown into a calabash, (set on purpose), with the same feeling of dependence.

In and around the houses of the gods, are bones of all shapes and kinds, of men, beasts, fowls, and fishes, beside great quantities of fruits of all kinds, which are carried there from time to time, and deposited with incantations.

After the ceremony is over they are marched back and dispersed about the ground, each helping themselves as they wish. The grand feast is carried on with great glee, amid shouting, clapping of hands, blowing of shells, and a spirit of rivalry seemingly prevails among them in making the greatest noise, and in rejoicing the most over a fallen enemy. They eat as long as they can, when they join in the dance, or sink away into a senseless stupor, the cause of which, is, that on such occasions, they drink very freely indeed. This lasts from one half to an hour, when they again eat and drink, until the second and third stupor seizes upon them, which continues until the last morsel is eaten.

In those feasts we were compelled to partake, which was greatly against our wishes; yet had we been unconscious of what the feast consisted, I think we wouldhave called it a most delicious morsel; and should any of my readers sit down to a dish nicely prepared, without knowing what it was, or supposing it something different, I think they would join with me in declaring it of the richest flavor.

The war by land now commenced, and was carried forward with vigor, each day visiting the battle field, and trying in every way to entrap their enemies. Sometimes a week would pass, and they not get sight of them. As they fought with clubs principally, they could do nothing except in close combat; this the enemy avoided; if by chance one of them wandered off alone, he was almost sure to be taken, so much were our men on the alert.

Noyce and myself, unaccustomed to the use of the spear or club, were allowed to stand neutral, this we continued to do for the space of five months.

The ship Royal Sovereign, of London, came to anchor in our harbor for the purpose of getting provisions, water, &c. Soon as the ship was seen entering the harbor, we received strict orders not to step on board; also in our presence, the people were told to keep the strictest watch of us, lest we should escape. This suddenly put a damper on our hopes, for we had strongly hoped at its approach to find it a means of deliverance for us; foiled in this, we concluded to take no notice of it, but rather appear as if perfectly willing it should be so, and watch an opportunity when we could without suspicion on their part, secrete ourselves on board some other ship.

Our apparently caring but little about the restrictions, tended much to enliven them; of this we made gooduse. Soon as the anchor was let go, the females plunged as usual into the water, and swam for the ship; that is their usual way, as the use of the boats are prohibited them. The captain lowered away his boat, and came for the shore; on his near approach he hailed for liberty to land. I stepped forward and gave him the desired permission; he seemed greatly surprised at hearing his own language spoken here, while there were no ships lying in the bay.

At his calling loudly, on his landing, for the Englishman, who spoke to him, I came forward to them; he could hardly believe me to be one, for the scanty allowance of clothes with which I left the wreck, had long before fallen off, leaving me entirely naked, and exposed to the sun's scorching rays; besides, my long beard, and uncombed hair, rendered me in appearance scarce less than a savage.

At the many inquiries he made respecting our situation, the natives standing by would say,yahah, or, what does he say? As this was done at every inquiry, I had to use much deception, telling them he wanted hogs, fruit, and water, and for him to solicit the natives to assist in procuring them.

Having acquainted him respecting the war, I proposed to buy a gun and ammunition, if he had one to spare; he brought forward one, and I think the only one he had on board, and very poor at that, which he offered to sell me for hogs. I left him to consult the king, who stoutly refused to buy it; I labored much with him, telling him how many of the Cohaphas I could kill, and at a great distance too, which I measured off to him; at this he was greatly astonished, and immediatelyconsented to have me purchase it. He sent men off to procure the hogs and fruit, which were taken to the beach the next morning; the captain was again brought on shore; I offered him three hogs for the gun itself, and four for a quantity of ammunition. This he readily accepted. Taking the gun we thought ourselves well equipped for action.

During the time the ship remained in the harbor, we were catching hogs, and gathering fruit which we bartered away with the ship's company for such articles as we might desire.

At the expiration of ten days, the captain signified to me his intention to leave the harbor, expressing a strong desire to assist us in getting away; this was altogether impossible, for we were most strictly watched. When the hour of their departure came, we with heart ready for bursting, bade them a cheerful farewell; apparently well pleased with the idea of remaining behind; this tended much towards insuring the confidence of the natives, which was now our principal object, so that at the arrival of the next ship, less vigilance would be observed, and we at length would be enabled to effect our escape. To this end we now used our whole endeavors, and strove as far as possible, to adopt their customs and notions as our own, and set about building huts for ourselves; in this we were assisted very much by the natives, who joyously received the idea of our building them, considering the act an indication of contentedness.

The hut being finished, I went out in search of a wife, knowing thereby that we would also enjoy greater security as well as gain their confidence. Finding agroup of six or eight chewing carver I chatted with them awhile; when taking one of them, a girl of about sixteen, by the ear slightly, I signified to her my wish of her becoming my wife. She instantly left her business, and accompanied me to my hut. That was all the required ceremony.

A man at any time getting dissatisfied with his wife, has only to lead her from the house, bid her go elsewhere, and take to himself another more suited to his fancy. Finding the one I had first chosen differing entirely from what I supposed, I made use of this prerogative, drove her from the house, and chose for myself a daughter of one of the chiefs, a girl of only thirteen years of age, with whom I lived during my residence on the island.

Great was the astonishment of the natives when they saw us kill a hog, or any other animal at a distance, with our gun; and such was their fear of thepobohe, as they termed it, that they would scarcely come near it, much less touch it; this was a very happy circumstance for us, and we indulged them in their fear, hoping that by so doing, to retain the exclusive control of it ourselves, and thereby gain notoriety among them as warriors.

Each day we went to the battle field, but seldom would the enemy meet us there. One morning taking a quantity of junk lead, which we brought instead of balls, we cut it into small pieces, or slugs, intending to use two or three at a time; we proceeded to the battle field with only a few of the warriors. On our arrival we gave one yell or whoop, to apprise the enemy of our presence in the field. From the eminence we occupied,we could overlook the valley of the Cohaphas. They wishing to appear as not at all fearful of us, commenced dancing, and singing loudly, still they dare not meet us in the field.

Noyce being the best marksman, took charge of the gun, while I carried the ammunition; as before remarked, the gun was a very poor one, and would have been under other circumstances condemned as unfit for use. Oftentimes it could not be made to go off except I applied a torch to it while Noyce took aim. I usually carried fire with me in the husks of the cocoa-nut. We stole cautiously down the hill, until we were within reach of them. Secreting ourselves behind a bunch of reeds, we opened our fire upon them, gave them two or three charges, which made them dance still more lively. On the first discharge we wounded one man in the leg, who fell upon the ground, rolling and kicking around most violently, at the same time yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile; the others, altogether ignorant of the cause, gathered around to learn it if possible; this we demonstrated to them by the two succeeding shots, in a most lively manner, which caused them to yell still louder than before. Throwing the wounded upon their shoulders they fled with the greatest precipitancy; we followed closely with a few of our slugs, but were unable to reach them.

On gaining the eminence occupied by our warriors, they were overjoyed at our success, falling at our feet in token of reverence, and on our return to the bay, most loudly were our efforts extolled by them.

Many days now passed without our seeing an enemy, though we visited the field nearly every day. At lengththey ventured to make another attack upon our bay on a bright moonlight night, at a late hour, probably supposing us all asleep, but Noyce being on watch, saw them cautiously approaching our shores, gave the alarm, and the whole tribe secreted themselves in the groves, and waited their approach; when near enough, and in the right position, we gave them what is termed a raking shot; finding themselves foiled in their attempt, they instantly turned and fled the harbor. So near were they, we could plainly see the destruction we had made; three were wounded, one of them desperately. So heavily was the gun loaded, that it came near killing Noyce, who was thrown with a great force upon the ground, by its violent kicking. This attempt though unsuccessful, altogether called out the power of the tribe, and they immediately set about preparing for a grand attack upon the Cohaphas. The preparation for the attack occupied several days; spears and clubs were brought forward, and examined; those unfit for use were broken and thrown aside, and others made to supply their place. The warriors decorated themselves with feathers, and other things in a most gaudy manner. All who were able to bear arms were called to prepare for the attack. When collected, they presented a sight truly imposing. "Their lofty head-dresses made of feathers, gleaming like helmets in the brightness of the sun, and tossing proudly in the wind, with the motion of their bold gait,—their naked and brawny limbs,—their savage trappings, converted them for the moment into seeming giants."

The most hideously painted, and powerfully equipped North American Indian, would fail in a comparisonwith one of these, as a fearful and majestic warrior. They rushed forward with shouts of exultation and joy, exclaiming, in tones of heart-felt triumph, as they went rapidly through the action of an onset,—throwing themselves in every wild and threatening attitude,—scowling with looks of deathly fierceness and revenge,—brandishing their spears and clubs in the air."Cohapha, Cohapha, te hannah Muckey, Cohapha," or Death to the Cohaphas.

We proceeded on the valley through which a small rivulet courses itself, which is thickly clustered "with trees, whose lofty tops so thickly interlace each other, as to completely embower the whole glen; and the rays of the torrid sun beneath which we had been marching, instead of striking us with a scorching glare, fell in such rich and grateful mellowness on the group below, as to seem but the moonlight of a fairy land; the illusion of which, the sound of water had but little tendency to break."

Our army consisted of about three hundred able warriors, armed with clubs and spears, all with eager strides rushing on to meet the enemy. We at length reached the top of the mountain which separates the two tribes, and which also constituted the battle ground. Until we arrived there, no regular order was observed. The warriors were then divided into three companies, or divisions, leaving Noyce and myself to act for ourselves. Again we crawled unobserved down the hill, till we came within a few rods of the enemy. We loaded our gun as heavily as we dared do, putting seven slugs in it, meaning to do the principal work with the first shot, as they would probably retreat immediately, and notgive us an opportunity of firing again. All things in readiness, we softly crept a few rods nearer, and, as they were standing close together, (in consultation no doubt respecting an engagement, as our men were seen upon the field,) we discharged our battery upon them. Great was the havoc we made with a single shot, killing two and wounding three more. Among the wounded was the celebrated chief, Cappayoho, noted among all tribes for his great daring and cunningness in battle.

We returned to the point occupied by our men, who had watched our movements and saw the execution of our only shot. Meanwhile our warriors had succeeded in taking the persons of three of the enemy. This to them was true revenge: to simply kill was no revenge at all; that alone consisted in disjointing the enemy, and tearing the flesh from his bones by the morsel.

We were held in great estimation among them as warriors. We returned to the valley with shouts and songs of triumph; those who were infirm, and unable to join in the battle, with the women and children, met us as we came near home, and joined in the exclamation of joy.

As was often the case, Noyce and myself one day strolled far away from home into the mountain, taking our gun with us as a constant companion, when, wearied with walking in the noonday sun, we had retired beneath the shade of a large tree. I had seated myself upon a little rise of ground, while Noyce was standing by me in the attitude so common to huntsmen, viz., that of standing with his hands upon the gun, and resting his chin upon his hands, musing upon our situation and probable destiny, when our reverie was broken by thesharp report of a gun near by. I sprang to my feet with my legs completely covered with blood. Noyce brought the gun into requisition for defence. Soon we saw the head of a native within a very few feet, peering up above the grass, in which he had secreted himself to catch a glimpse of us. Noyce discharged his gun immediately, and two slugs entered his head above the right eye, and came out at the back of the left ear; he died without a gasp. On arriving at him, we found he had a beautiful gun of French manufacture, of which I took possession. This occasioned great surprise with us, as we supposed we were in possession of the only gun on the island. We afterwards ascertained, however, that a French ship visiting the island, coming in upon the other side, for sandal wood, had sold ten or twelve to the different tribes; only one, however, had been sold to the Cohaphas, and that to rather an obscure individual who lived by himself in the mountain principally, yet considered himself as belonging to the Cohaphas. We made a knife of bamboo, with which we extracted the shot from my legs, or a portion of it; some, however, remains to the present time, and can still be felt.

Raising the body upon our shoulders, we hastened to our tribe. When we made known our adventure, throwing down the body as proof before them, their joy knew no bounds. As a reward, the king gave us twenty-five trees each, banana and bread-fruit, which were by them considered quite a wealth.

The body, taken as it was, was considered worthy special manifestations of joy and triumph. Accordingly it was prepared for the feast; other necessaries werealso furnished, consisting of fruits and carver in great abundance.

The stillness of the night was broken by the loud shouting, singing, &c. The body was taken from the oven and placed upon the table. The whole tribe set up a whoro whoro, or loud singing, which was echoed back from the hills like a thousand thunders. The war dance was performed, I think, with greater eagerness than ever before. Torches, made by stringing the amer nut on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, were placed around on all sides, rendering the whole scene as lightsome as noonday. This continued till morning, when they dispersed. Of the grandeur of such a scene the reader can form no definite idea at all, however much the pen may labor in its description.

About twelve months after our landing on the island, the ship Pacific, of Nantucket, came to anchor in our bay. Of those on board we obtained a supply of ammunition, giving in exchange our usual barter—hogs and fruit. At the expiration of thirteen days, the ship left the harbor, and we were again doomed to see our friends depart, leaving us behind on those desolate shores.

When we first saw her sails before the breeze nearing our shore, Hope pointed us to it as a means of escape; but in that we were doomed to disappointment, being most strictly watched by the natives. No pen can describe with any degree of accuracy our feelings at that time, deserted as it were by our fellowmen, and shut out from the world, perhaps forever! With a determination to acquit ourselves as became our situation, weassumed an air of cheerfulness, and went about our business.

The battle field was still visited; but none had been taken or killed since the time of my being shot. One day a company of us were out getting carver; we had secured a quantity, which we had fastened to our backs, and were returning, when, my load getting misplaced, I stopped to fix it; the others meanwhile continued slowly on. When I had adjusted my load and was starting, a huge hog, with open mouth, stood in my path. He gave one spring, or bound, and made for me. Throwing off my carver, I ran a few rods, turned my eye back, found the hog following closely, and was evidently gaining upon me. I gave a loud whoop, which was answered by my companions. I could see no chance of escape from him except by jumping a precipice of about ninety feet, to which I found myself hastening. This I looked upon as almost certain destruction; but to be overtaken by the hog was sure death: thus having no alternative, I taxed my every nerve and rushed forward, gave a spring to carry me beyond the trees and points of rock which might be in the way. I landed in a cluster of tall reeds and grass which bent with my weight and eased me down without injury, save a few slight scratches. My first thought on landing was of the hog, whether he had also jumped; but he wisely searched for other prey.

To find my way back, over rocks, through briars and obstacles of all kinds, was no easy task, besides I was in much danger of being captured by some prowling Cohaphas.

ESCAPE FROM A HOG.

ESCAPE FROM A HOG.

ESCAPE FROM A HOG.

After much difficulty I succeeded in reaching the Bay of Ooro, a small bay belonging to the Teheda, where I related my adventure with the hog, which caused a hearty laugh. Getting some refreshments, I started for home by a path which led over the bluff. As I entered the village, I was met by Noyce and the natives who had accompanied me in the morning. Great was their astonishment when they saw me, for they supposed by the whoop I gave that I had fallen into the hands of the Cohaphas, and had on that account given them an opportunity of manifesting their cannibal joy over a fallen enemy.

Great joy was manifested by other members of the tribe for my return. The sorcerer, or doctor, applied carver to my wounds, saying I should not be killed by a hog or a Cohapha, but should live to a good old age among the Teheda. If I had been killed by jumping the precipice, or had been devoured by the hog, they would have cared but little, in comparison with the idea of my falling a victim to the blood-thirsty Cohaphas.

The war with the Cohaphas lasted nearly a year, when, one morning at a very early hour, a message came from them, saying the "King of the Cohaphas wished for peace, for thoseveneies, or devils, (as they called us,) were killing all the Cohaphas with their Pobohe." Our king drew himself up at full length, and with a significant expression of countenance said: "The King of the Cohaphas commenced; the King of the Teheda will end. If he has done enough we will give him peace; but if not—if he still thirsts for blood, we will kill all of them, as we did the Whi's;" a tribe of that name who lived about two miles from us, who committed some misdemeanor upon our tribe, at which theking became enraged, and in a single night killed them all, amounting to about 500. Their bodies were thrown in a pile, where their bones still whiten the sand. I have often visited the spot, which can truly be called "the place of skulls." Bones of all sizes, from the tender infant who nestled in its mother's arms, to the stout, athletic warrior, are strewn upon the ground. The messenger returned to his king, and peace was established.

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