Abbot, a twelve-year-old, ii.163Abdul Kerim, my caravan leader, ii.226; error of, as to forage,241; assumes rôle of master of caravan,291,344; ideas as to the time of day,302; despatched in charge of second division of caravan to the Tarok-tso,371; anxiety as to whereabouts of,396; arrives at our camp at Ratse,399; bid farewell to, with other five of my followers,416Absi, peak of the Kubi-gangri, ii.102Abuk-la pass, ii.396Adam, Colonel, military secretary to the Viceroy, i. 16Age, average, of caravan, i. 53“Aid,” Mohammedan festival celebrated in camp, i. 191Aksai-chin, lake, unannexed region of, i. 93, 95, 98; ii.258Alchi, dangerous bridge at, i. 44Alexander the Great, i. 3; ii.213Amban Lien Yü, of Lhasa, i. 393, 400Amchen-la pass, ii.396Amchi-lama (monk-doctor), tent-temple of, ii.296Amchok-tang, plain, ii.36Amchok-tso, lake, ii.36; camp at,37; shallowness of,38; soundings on,39Amchok-yung, village of, ii.36Amchung country, interesting information acquired in, ii.325Amitabha, the Tashi Lama the incarnation of, i. 326Amusements, Tibetan, i. 341Anchar, lake, i. 32Angden-la pass, cairn with prayer-streamers on, ii.34; panoramic view from,35; not situated on same range as the Samye-la,330Angsi-chu, river, ii.104“Antelope Plain,” name given by Captain Deasy, i. 142Antelopes, i. 92, 114, 175, 186; ii.36,262,282; method of snaring, i. 119; ii.274Aong-tsangpo, river, ii.399Archery and shooting competitions on horseback, i. 343Argok-tso, lake, ii.400Arnold,The Light of Asia, quotation from, ii.206Arport-tso, lake, crossing of ice of, ii.263Arung-kampa, deserted village of, i. 280Asses, wild, upright position of frozen, ii.95; great herds met with,285Atkinson, Mr. E. T., work by, cited, ii.402Bailey, Lieutenant, Acting Resident at Gyangtse, i. 255Balls, State, in Simla, i. 17; ii.420Baltal, i. 38Bando, camp at, ii.83Barley, roasted, a delicacy, ii.14Barong-la pass, ii.30Basang valley, camp in, ii.46Basgho-gompa, monastery, i. 44Bed, method of making my, i. 150Ben-la pass, storm on, ii.34Besant, Mrs. Annie, i. 30Bibles, the Tibetan, in library of Tashi-lunpo, i. 333; in Tashi-gembe, 412Biographical details of caravan, i. 151-153Birch bark, dream suggested by, ii.95Boat, our portable, i. 28; successful trip of, 107; description of Tibetan, 288Bogtsang-tsangpo, the, camp at, i. 205; interview with chief of district, 205; geographical information obtained, 206; erratic course of, 207Bokar valley, ii.212Bombo, or district chief, i. 262Bongba, province of, ii.304; tension of journey through the,312; names of the twelve districts of,388Bongba-changma, district of, ii.304Bongba-chushar, district of, ii.379Bongba-kebyang, district of, ii.388Bongba-kemar, district of, ii.324,389Bongba-kyangrang, high-road to Lapchung through, ii.387Brahmaputra, the, valley of, i. 281; welcome news received at, 282; monasteries of, 282; confluence of the Chaktak-tsangpo with, ii. 48; measurements and ratios, 49; junction of the Tsa-chu-tsangpo with, and measurements, 74; possible diversion of, 78; varying volume of, 88; Nain Sing on its sources, 89; Webber’s confusing statement as to the origin of, 89; Ryder’s map of valley of upper, 90; source-streams of, 90-95; author’s determination of its source in Kubi-gangri, 96, 101; we bid farewell to, 105British Government, change of, i. 4; refuse permission to enter Tibet from India, 7, 388; cautious policy of, 10, 395Buck, Mr. Edward, ii.219,419Buddha, stone figures of, at Dras, i. 39; posture of, in statues and pictures, ii.10Buddhism, introduced into Tibet, i. 312; preservation of life a fundamental principle of, 312Buka-magna, mountain system, i. 164Bumnak-chu, river, ii.22Bup-chu-tsangpo, river, sources of, i. 276Buptsang-tsangpo, river, ii.325; scenery of,326; its headwaters,327; camp by the,389Bupyung-ring valley, beauty of, ii.327Burrard, Colonel S. G., on drainage area of the Sutlej, ii.187; book by Hayden and, mentioned,404; disapproves of author’s use of the name Trans-Himalaya,412Burroughs & Wellcome, London, medicine-chest presented by, i. 29, 172; my offering to the Tashi Lama, 316; ii.40Buser-tsangpo, river, ii.261“Call of the wilderness,” the, i. 1Calvert, Mr., crosses Jukti-la pass, ii.215,403Camp, our first, i. 33Camp life, routine of our, i. 150; Tibetan, ii.387Campbell-Bannerman, Sir Henry, i. 4; telegrams sent by author to, 8, 390Candles, Christmas-tree of, i. 219Caravan, our, equipment of, i. 28, 53; troublesome members, 38; biographical details, 151-153; rearrangement of, 166; home-sickness in, ii. 62, 67; three members dismissed, 69; their reinstatement, 73; reduction at Tokchen, 107; reorganization of, 110; preparation of new, for fresh expedition, 211, 226, 228; heavy baggage sent back to Leh, 229; parting with Robert and Rub Das, 229; Mohammedan festival, 260; losses and sickness, 265; superfluous baggage sacrificed, 269, 279, 282; directions to, 274; my hiding-place in, 345; festivities in honour of Governor of Saka, 368; divided into two parties, 371; combined again, 400; parting with my caravan leader and companions, 416; farewell to remainder of followers in Simla, 422Cassels, Mr., present of tea from, ii.179Chabuk-tso, lake, ii.322Chak-chom-la pass, i. 191Chakko, holy spring, miraculous powers attributed to, ii.106Chaklam-la pass, ii.308Chaktak-tsangpo, river, ii.45; preparations for excursion to,47; confluence with the Brahmaputra,48; measurements and ratios,49,65; journey northwards along,65; camp again on,335; eastward march along north bank of,337; return to,374Chamo-lung-chen valley, ii.193Chang, or native beer, i. 68Changa, village of, i. 63Chang-chenmo valley, bivouac at, i. 79; ii.233Chang-la pass, i. 64; altar with prayer-streamers on summit of, 66Chang-la-Pod-la pass, meaning of the term, ii.19; camp on,20Chang-lung-barma valley, i. 81Chang-lung-yogma valley, i. 81, 84; difficulties in, 82; camp and rest in, 82; sunshine and snow, 83; magnificent landscape of, 85Changpas, Tibetan nomads, i. 119; friendliness of, 182, 188; habits and tastes, 184; skill in hunting, 185; hard life of, 186; disposal of their dead, 187Chang-shung, a headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii.41Chang-tang, the, desperate situation in, i. 163; our successful crossing of, 210Chang Yin Tang, Chinese Commissioner in Tibet, correspondence with, i. 393, 397; ii.42,70Chapka-la pass, i. 259Charvak, camp at, ii.234Chega-gompa temple, i. 280Chema-yundung, river, ii.90,103; measurement of discharge,91Chema-yundung-pu, heights of, ii.92Chenmo,kotidarof Tankse, i. 73, 87Chergip-gompa monastery, its single monk, ii.165Cherok, district of, ii.88Chesang-la pass, intense cold on, i. 274Chhorten, or stone monument, i. 42Chi Chao Nan, translation of passage from his work on source of the Sutlej, ii.183; accuracy of his statements,183Chikum, view from camp at, ii.83Chimre monastery, i. 64Chinese Government, messages from, i. 389, 391; importance of supremacy in Tibet to the, 396; specimen of diplomatic correspondence, 397; courtesy of officials to author, 400Chinese passport, efficacy of my, i. 299Chini-chikang, nuns’ temporary quarters, Tashi-lunpo, i. 357Chiptu-la pass, pilgrim route over, ii.388Chiu-gompa monastery, visits to, ii.159,415Chockar-shung-chu valley, ii.75Chokchu, caravan bound for, met with, i. 270; the Governor of, ii.399Choma-taka, cave of, ii.18Chomo-sumdo valley, camp in, ii.16Chomo-uchong, “High Nun,” ridge of, ii.41,333,344,362Chong-yangal, camp at, ii.232Christmas, our celebration of, i. 219; Ladaki hymn and dances at, 220; translation of hymn sung at, 221; comparison of different years, ii. 248Chugge-lung valley, i. 271Chungsang, a tributary of the Tsangpo, ii.45Chunit-tso, lake, ii.322,387; warm sulphur spring at,323Church festivals, Lamaist, i. 301Churu pool, camp at, ii.67Chuta district, sulphurous springs in, i. 82Chykying, the Gova of, ii.314,316Cleanliness, Ladakis’ contempt for, i. 150Cockburn’s Agency, assistance in furnishing and transport, i. 28Consul of Nepal, the, i. 304, 375Correspondence, arrangements for forwarding, i. 72, 83, 87, 103; welcome arrival of, at the Ngangtse-tso, 254; and at Shigatse, 377Corvée, system of, exacted on Tibetan high-roads, ii.328“Cripple,” our faithful canine follower, i. 263Crosby, expedition of, referred to, i. 98Curzon, Lord, encouraging letter from, i. 3; leaves India, 4; on author’s use of name Trans-Himalaya, ii.413Dagtse-tso, i. 217Dahlgren, Dr. E. W., statement by, as to wall-maps in Venice, ii.406Dalai Lama (Gyalpo Rinpoche), cowardly flight of, i. 244, 306; his sphere compared with that of the Tashi Lama, 323; disastrous policy of, 323Dal-dervaseh, canal journey from, i. 32Dalgleish, Mr., monument to, in Leh, i. 59Dambak-rong, valley junction, ii.70; letter from the Tang Darin received at,70Dam-chu, river, ii.181Damm valley, ii.79Dandy, or average man’s load, i. 166Dane, Sir Louis, interview with, i. 7, 11Dangbe-chu, river, i. 276Dangbe-la pass, i. 277Dangra-yum-tso, lake, permission to visit, refused, i. 247, 251; reputed salinity of, ii. 29; shape and extent of, 29; pilgrim routes round, 29; Nain Sing’s nomenclature of district, 30; proposed dash for, 382D’Anville, maps by, referred to, ii.185,186,337,401Dapsang, on the heights of, ii.248; Christmas box for the animals at,251Daya Kishen Kaul, private secretary to Maharaja of Kashmir, assistance rendered by, i. 24, 28Dead, barbarous disposal of the, i. 370Deane, Sir Harold, i. 15Deasy, Captain, “Fever Camp” of, i. 120; baggage and provisions left by, at Yeshil-kul, 128“Deasy Group,” mountain mass, i. 131, 138Dena-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, i. 364Dentistry, drastic form of, ii.324Devashung.SeeTibetan GovernmentDevotional exercises of pilgrims, Tashi-lunpo, i. 357Dicha-la pass, importance of watershed, ii.375Dikpa-karnak, or test-stone for sinners, ii.195Ding-la, the highest pass crossed in our journey, ii.400Dinner, State, at Simla, i. 12Diri-pu monastery, my tent pitched on roof of, ii.193Disguise, assumed by author, ii.277Dogs: puppies taken with party, i. 34; frolics of, 37, 62, 69, 74, 143, 154; ii. 34, 41; from Pobrang added to caravan, i. 74; deserted by one of our, 78; a splendid feast, 108; loss of two, 259; two new followers, 263; an interesting event, 399; illness and deaths of, ii. 65, 67, 73, 251; another happy event, 238; loss of Brown Puppy, 293, 301; purchase of Takkar, 305; Little Puppy’s first experience of running water, 314; Takkar’s avowal of affection, 319; a sorrowful parting, 419Dojas-chimbo, court in Tashi-lunpo, i. 308Dokang valley, camp in, i. 279; Tibetan politeness in, 280Dok-chu (Raga-tsangpo), river, voyage through rapids of, i. 418; its confluence with the Brahmaputra, 419; rock-drawings in valley of, 422; junction with the My-chu, 422; head sources of, ii.41Dölchu-gompa monastery, mentioned, ii.182,187Döle-gompa nunnery, i. 429Dolma-la pass, pilgrim offerings on, ii.200Dongchen-la pass, wild sheep on the, ii.380Dongdong, glaciers of the, ii.92; peaks of the,103Dongmo-chu, river, ii.39Dopserma, island of the Langak-tso, ii.178Dorab-la pass, ii.75Dorche, or emblem of thunderbolt, i. 318Dorche Tsuen, Governor of Saka-dzong, discussion of my return route with, ii.355-359,364; camp festivities in honour of,368; bid farewell to,370Do-tsengkan, mountain, ii.33Dras, river, i. 39; stone figures of Buddha near, i. 39; junction with the Wakkha, 40Drugub, i. 67; our new caravan at, ii.226; salt-caravan at,228Dsabo, title of official in Chagha, i. 416Dsalung-la pass, importance of, ii.388Duan Suen, Chinese official in Shigatse, i. 298, 388Duff, General Sir Beauchamp, i. 16Dufour, map by, ii.406Dumbok-tso, lake, i. 219Dunglung valley, ii.193Dunglung-do, valley junction, ii.193Dungtsa-tso, lake, our camp visited by Tibetans at, i. 192Dung-yeilak, oasis of, ii.233Dunka-la pass, view of the Shuru-tso from, ii.34Dunlop Smith, Colonel J. R., private secretary to Viceroy, i. 11; arranges as to my correspondence, 103; letter to, from Tokchen, ii.107; consignment from, reaches Gartok,223; hospitality in Simla,420; good-bye to,423Dupkang, or hermitage, ii.2Dutreuil de Rhins, French explorer, i. 46, 47, 199Dzong, or town with resident governor, i. 245Dzundi village, medicinal springs at, i. 283Eagles, i. 209Earthquake at Selipuk, ii.399Eclipse of the sun, incidents of the, i. 252Electricity, generation of, by driftsand, ii.300Elephant, a unique, i. 336Emir Sing, brother of Maharaja of Kashmir, i. 26Equipment of caravan, i. 28, 53; ii.211Escort, our Pathan and Rajput, i. 28; our Tibetan, 404, 424; inspection of, ii.16; fresh, from Kyangdam,21; route discussed with,21; the Governor of Saka-dzong supplies military,365Espionage, system of, i. 379Europeans, Tibetan distrust of, i. 201; iron statues of, in Tashi-gembe monastery, 413; increased stringency of regulations regarding, ii.356Fagu, bungalow of, ii.419Family ties, looseness of Tibetan, i. 373Field-mice, treacherous holes of, i. 92, 96, 147, 215, 223; ii.332,397Fireworks, display of, at Srinagar, i. 27Food supplies, calculations and estimates of, i. 73Fox, surprise of a, i. 148Francke, Pastor A. H., i. 54Frithiof’s Saga, quotation from, ii.11Fröding, quotation from, ii.6Frost-bite, heartless desertion of victim of, ii.240Funeral customs, gruesome, i. 369Game, abundance of, i. 177, 205; ii.50Gandän-chöding, nunnery of, i. 410Gandarbal, first camp at, i. 33; departure of caravan from, 35Gang-lung, mountain, ii.109,129Gang-lung-chu, river, ii.105,129Ganglung-gangri range, direction of, ii.395Ganjevan, i. 36Ganju-gompa monastery, ii.86Ganju-la pass, ii.86Gao, or small case with figure of Buddha, i. 247Gara-la pass, ii.366Gar-gunsa, arrival at, ii.219; misleading reports intentionally spread at,219; plans formed at,222; arrival of consignment from India,233; leave for Tankse,224Gartok, men and baggage sent to, from Tokchen, ii.107; main caravan sent to, from Khaleb,208; letters received at,215; visit to the Garpuns of,215; friendly letter from Lien Darin at,216; consultation with Gulam Razul at,217; plans considered, and return to Ladak resolved on,218; leave for Gar-gunsa,219Gaura, letters from home received at, ii.419Gave-ting, massive of Kubi-gangri, ii.101,103Gaw Daloi, Chinese Agent at Gyangtse, i. 388; correspondence with, 390, 392Gazelles, Goa, i. 240Gebuk-chu, confluence of, with the Chak-tak-tsangpo, ii.337Gebuk-la pass, ii.341Gebuk-yung, district of, ii.339Geese, wild, flock of, i. 166; habits of, 167, 168; migrations of, ii.321; Tibetan reverence for,362Gelong, order of priesthood, i. 351“Gelugpa,” monastic sect founded by Tsong Kapa, i. 335Gertse, nomads from, i. 179, 184, 192; ii.285; their distrust of each other, i. 193; house of chief of, ii.296Getsa-rung, gold placer of, ii.276Getsul, order of priesthood, i. 351Ghe, bivouac at, and escort changed, i. 424Goa-la pass, ii.387Goa-lung valley, ii.387Goang-shung, guides obtained at, ii.392Goang-tso, lake, i. 217Goats, taken with caravan for milk, i. 74Gobrang, ridge of, i. 206Gogra, camp at, i. 81Gold, traces of search for, i. 174, 188; placers, ii.276,284Gomo-selung country, i. 179Gompa-sarpa, cemetery of Shigatse, i. 369Gossul-gompa monastery, ii.122,135; novices in,145;lhakangof,146; Somchung, apartment in,146; view from roof,148Gova, or district chief, i. 205Governors, dual, Tibetan system of, ii.354Govo, village of, ii.14Govo-tsangpo, river, ii.13Grünwedel, work on Buddhistic mythology by, i. 329n.Gubuk-gompa monastery, ii.80Guffaru, old, i. 52, 72, 81, 215; ii.40; appointed caravan leader on Muhamed Isa’s death,59; returns home with thirteen members of caravan,107; safe arrival at Gartok,144Guide, vagaries of our, i. 428Gulam Kadir, son of Nazer Shah, assistance rendered in Shigatse by, i. 377, 384Gulam Razul, son of Nazer Shah, valuable services of, i. 56; ii.217-221; honours conferred on, i. 56; ii.221Gunda-tammo, nunnery of, i. 423Gunsang Ngurbu, a centenarian hermit, ii.18Gunt, camp at, i. 37Gurkang-pu valley, ii.80Gurla Mandatta, mountain group, ii.104,106,111,112; varying aspects of,114ff.; denudation cones,157Gyalpo Rinpoche, “the Precious King.”SeeDalai LamaGyang-chu, river, ii.88Gyangtse, letters despatched to, i. 260; message from Chinese Agent at, 388; Muhamed Isa’s mission to, 391, 396Gyebuk-la pass, important trade route, ii.47; view from,48Gyegong valley, camp in, ii.371Gyegong-la pass, ii.372Gye-la pass, ii.361Gyenor-tsangpo, river, ii.392Gyuma-chu, river, ii.162Hajji Baba, name assumed by author, ii.275Hamdung, wandering lamas’ quarters in Tashi-lunpo, i. 357Hastings, Warren, embassies to the Tashi Lama from, i. 321, 334Hawkes, General, i. 16Hemis, temple of, near Changa, i. 63Hermit, cell of, near Linga-gompa, ii.2; his heroic vow,3; his prayers for the sick,4; ceremony of seclusion,5; quotation from Fröding,6; living death of,7,10; caves of, at Nyang-tö-ki-pu,8; Waddell on practice of seclusion for life,9; last offices,10; a centenarian,18Himalayas, the, view of, from the Ta-la, i. 278; from the Angden-la, ii.35; from the Serchung-la,69Hiraman, an old friend, i. 67, 73, 75Hlabsen Dorche Barva, god of Tso-mavang, ii.131Hlaje Tsering.SeeNaktsang, Governor ofHle-lungpa valley, ii.193Hlindug-ling, i. 289Hodgson, map by, ii.401Home-sickness in caravan, ii.62,67“Horse years,” periods in Tibetan cycle of time, ii.190Horses, purchase and numbering of, i. 49; qualities of different breeds, 49; auxiliary caravan of, hired from Tankse, 50, 67; trouble with, on leaving Leh, 61; first loss of, 75; field-mice holes dangerous for, 92, 96; ii.397; Ladaki consideration for dying, i. 93; stampede of, 99, 139, 178; ii.30; mortality among, i. 101-103, 135, 138, 149, 162, 181; ii.265; diet of Tibetan, i. 190; mules compared with, 198; death of my dapple-grey, 218; splendid condition of our Tibetan, 265; survivors at Shigatse, 297; our veterans, ii. 220, 229; my white Ladaki, 229, 265, 273; enormous wastage of, 240; Christmas box for our, 251; death of brown Shigatse, 264; and of my faithful white Ladaki, 279Ho Tsao Hsing, secretary to the Tang Darin, ii.70House, description of Tibetan stone, ii.14; domestic utensils and possessions,15House-boats near Gandarbal, i. 33Huc, Abbé, book on Tibet by, ii.402Hymn, Tibetan, translation of, i. 221; wonderful chanting of, in Tashi-lunpo, 308Ice, nomads’ distrust of the, i. 224, 227; singular formations of, on the Ngangtse-tso, 227Idar, the Maharaja of, i. 15Illness of author, i. 172Images, manufacture of, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 368Immurement, voluntary, of monks, i. 363; ii. 2, 8.SeeHermitImpressions in stone, i. 337, 406India, the Tashi Lama’s visit to, i. 321Indian Government, the, sympathy of, i. 9; instructions of, as to author’s passport, 25, 26Indus, the, previous search for rise of, i. 3; crossed beyond Lamayuru, 43; start for the source, ii. 208; guide and sheep hired, 210; discovery of source of, 212, 213; mental picture of its course, 213; justifiable feelings, 214Instruments, scientific, taken on expedition, i. 29Jackdaws, flock of, at the Shemen-tso, ii.272Janglung, district of, ii.313Japanese Embassy, representations on my behalf at Pekin by, i. 391Jera, camp at, i. 44Jukti-la pass, ii.215Kabbalo, camp at, i. 279Kachen, order of priesthood, i. 351Kadakh, long narrow piece of white silk, i. 310Kadsung valley, i. 80Kailas, “the holy mountain,” views of, ii.106,111,112,181ff.; set out on pilgrimage round,189; Nyandi-gompa,190; pilgrims on the way,192,197; Diri-pu monastery,193; test-stone for sinners,195; universal Tibetan reverence for,196; the most famous mountain in the world,198; prostration pilgrimage described,199; pilgrims’ performance at Dung-chapje,200; offerings on the Dolma-la,201; Tsumtul-pu monastery,202Ka-la pass, view of, ii.396Kali-Gandak, river, ii.78Kalun, or high official, i. 201Kamba-sumdo, ii.41Kamba Tsenam, tent-encampment belonging to, ii.339; offer of guide declined,341; nocturnal visit to my tent,366; boastful talk of,367; “father of the robbers,”367; enormous tent of,367; good-bye to,372Kamchung-chu, name of upper Chaktak-tsangpo, ii.337Kam-la pass, i. 213Kampo Lama, or abbot, i. 351Kanchung-gangri range, ii.372,374,375Kando-sanglam valley, view of Kailas through, ii.202Kangan, tents pitched at, i. 36Kanglung-bupchu, river, ii.46Kanglung-la pass, tiresome ascent to, ii.45Kang-rinpoche.SeeKailasKangsham-tsangpo, river, unpleasant crossing of, ii.306Kanjur-lhakang, library of Tashi-lunpo, i. 333; lectures in, 366Kapchor, camp at, i. 261Kaptar-khane, camp at, ii.233Karakash Darya, river, ii.252Karakorum range, appearance of, from Chang-lung-yogma, i. 86; caravan enveloped by storm from, 91Karbu, an old follower recognized at, i. 40Karbu-la pass, ii.107Kargan-la pass, ii.103Kargil, trial and dismissal of Kashmiris and Pathans from caravan at, i. 41Karma Puntso, Governor of Bongba, ii.304,321Karma Tamding, of Tang-yung, guide and yaks supplied by, i. 213Karong-tso, lake, ii.387Karpun, an old acquaintance, i. 253Karu monastery, i. 63Karu, camp at, i. 404Kashmir, Maharaja of (Sir Pratab Sing), reception of author by, i. 26; fête given by, in honour of Emperor of India’s birthday, 27Kashmiris, dismissal of, i. 41Kayi-pangbuk, camp at, i. 262Kayi-rung valley, i. 262Kebechungu country, configuration of the, i. 196; dust-storm in, 196Kelung-tsangpo, river, i. 264Kesar-tsangpo, river, i. 262Keva, mountain peak, i. 216Khaleb, river, ii.181; camp on moor,181,189,203Kichung-la pass, ii.45Kien Lung, Emperor of China, visited by third Tashi Lama, i. 334Kilung-la pass, view from, ii.69Kinchen-la pass, ii.344; armed search-party visit our camp below the,345Kitchen of Tashi-lunpo, gigantic tea-cauldrons in the, i. 361Kitchener, Lord, assistance promised by, i. 8; at Viceroy’s State dinner, Simla, 12; trophies and curios in house at Simla, 18; photograph of, in Tashi-lunpo, 321; hospitality to author, ii. 422; bid good-bye to, 423Kograng-sanspo, river, i. 79, 81; difficulties in crossing, 80Kokbo valley, camp in, ii.22-24; begging lama at,24; impending difficulties at,25Köppen, book on Lamaism by, i. 329n.Kore-la pass, ii.73,82; view from,78Köteklik, ii.237Kotgar, attend mission service in, ii.419Krishna, the Pundit, i. 272; ii.404Kubi-gangri, excursion to the, ii.88,99; source of the Brahmaputra located in,96; huge moraines of,99; glaciers of,100; description and names of peaks,102Kubi-tsangpo, river, ii.90; measurement of discharge of,91; journey up the,91Kuen-lun mountain system, i. 131, 142Kulansorkiangs, wild asses, i. 74, 97, 154, 177; ii.95,161,285Kule-la pass, ii.354Kum-bum monastery, visited by third Tashi Lama, i. 334; miraculous tree in, 335Kungchak-kong valley, ii.79Kung Gushuk, Duke, brother of the Tashi Lama, i. 255, 282, 309; his house in Shigatse, 385; portrait drawn of his wife, 386Kung-lung valley, false alarm at, i. 215; a prolonged storm, 216Kung-muga, camp at, ii.82Kung-sherya country, dangers of discovery in, ii.315-319Kung-tsangpo, river, i. 262Kuru-chok, double lake of, ii.104Kyam-chu, valley of, ii.36; junction of river with the Amchok-tso,39; delta of,39Kyangdam plain, camp on the, ii.20Kyangdam-tsangpo, river, ii.34Kyerkye valley, ii.48
Abbot, a twelve-year-old, ii.163
Abdul Kerim, my caravan leader, ii.226; error of, as to forage,241; assumes rôle of master of caravan,291,344; ideas as to the time of day,302; despatched in charge of second division of caravan to the Tarok-tso,371; anxiety as to whereabouts of,396; arrives at our camp at Ratse,399; bid farewell to, with other five of my followers,416
Absi, peak of the Kubi-gangri, ii.102
Abuk-la pass, ii.396
Adam, Colonel, military secretary to the Viceroy, i. 16
Age, average, of caravan, i. 53
“Aid,” Mohammedan festival celebrated in camp, i. 191
Aksai-chin, lake, unannexed region of, i. 93, 95, 98; ii.258
Alchi, dangerous bridge at, i. 44
Alexander the Great, i. 3; ii.213
Amban Lien Yü, of Lhasa, i. 393, 400
Amchen-la pass, ii.396
Amchi-lama (monk-doctor), tent-temple of, ii.296
Amchok-tang, plain, ii.36
Amchok-tso, lake, ii.36; camp at,37; shallowness of,38; soundings on,39
Amchok-yung, village of, ii.36
Amchung country, interesting information acquired in, ii.325
Amitabha, the Tashi Lama the incarnation of, i. 326
Amusements, Tibetan, i. 341
Anchar, lake, i. 32
Angden-la pass, cairn with prayer-streamers on, ii.34; panoramic view from,35; not situated on same range as the Samye-la,330
Angsi-chu, river, ii.104
“Antelope Plain,” name given by Captain Deasy, i. 142
Antelopes, i. 92, 114, 175, 186; ii.36,262,282; method of snaring, i. 119; ii.274
Aong-tsangpo, river, ii.399
Archery and shooting competitions on horseback, i. 343
Argok-tso, lake, ii.400
Arnold,The Light of Asia, quotation from, ii.206
Arport-tso, lake, crossing of ice of, ii.263
Arung-kampa, deserted village of, i. 280
Asses, wild, upright position of frozen, ii.95; great herds met with,285
Atkinson, Mr. E. T., work by, cited, ii.402
Bailey, Lieutenant, Acting Resident at Gyangtse, i. 255
Balls, State, in Simla, i. 17; ii.420
Baltal, i. 38
Bando, camp at, ii.83
Barley, roasted, a delicacy, ii.14
Barong-la pass, ii.30
Basang valley, camp in, ii.46
Basgho-gompa, monastery, i. 44
Bed, method of making my, i. 150
Ben-la pass, storm on, ii.34
Besant, Mrs. Annie, i. 30
Bibles, the Tibetan, in library of Tashi-lunpo, i. 333; in Tashi-gembe, 412
Biographical details of caravan, i. 151-153
Birch bark, dream suggested by, ii.95
Boat, our portable, i. 28; successful trip of, 107; description of Tibetan, 288
Bogtsang-tsangpo, the, camp at, i. 205; interview with chief of district, 205; geographical information obtained, 206; erratic course of, 207
Bokar valley, ii.212
Bombo, or district chief, i. 262
Bongba, province of, ii.304; tension of journey through the,312; names of the twelve districts of,388
Bongba-changma, district of, ii.304
Bongba-chushar, district of, ii.379
Bongba-kebyang, district of, ii.388
Bongba-kemar, district of, ii.324,389
Bongba-kyangrang, high-road to Lapchung through, ii.387
Brahmaputra, the, valley of, i. 281; welcome news received at, 282; monasteries of, 282; confluence of the Chaktak-tsangpo with, ii. 48; measurements and ratios, 49; junction of the Tsa-chu-tsangpo with, and measurements, 74; possible diversion of, 78; varying volume of, 88; Nain Sing on its sources, 89; Webber’s confusing statement as to the origin of, 89; Ryder’s map of valley of upper, 90; source-streams of, 90-95; author’s determination of its source in Kubi-gangri, 96, 101; we bid farewell to, 105
British Government, change of, i. 4; refuse permission to enter Tibet from India, 7, 388; cautious policy of, 10, 395
Buck, Mr. Edward, ii.219,419
Buddha, stone figures of, at Dras, i. 39; posture of, in statues and pictures, ii.10
Buddhism, introduced into Tibet, i. 312; preservation of life a fundamental principle of, 312
Buka-magna, mountain system, i. 164
Bumnak-chu, river, ii.22
Bup-chu-tsangpo, river, sources of, i. 276
Buptsang-tsangpo, river, ii.325; scenery of,326; its headwaters,327; camp by the,389
Bupyung-ring valley, beauty of, ii.327
Burrard, Colonel S. G., on drainage area of the Sutlej, ii.187; book by Hayden and, mentioned,404; disapproves of author’s use of the name Trans-Himalaya,412
Burroughs & Wellcome, London, medicine-chest presented by, i. 29, 172; my offering to the Tashi Lama, 316; ii.40
Buser-tsangpo, river, ii.261
“Call of the wilderness,” the, i. 1
Calvert, Mr., crosses Jukti-la pass, ii.215,403
Camp, our first, i. 33
Camp life, routine of our, i. 150; Tibetan, ii.387
Campbell-Bannerman, Sir Henry, i. 4; telegrams sent by author to, 8, 390
Candles, Christmas-tree of, i. 219
Caravan, our, equipment of, i. 28, 53; troublesome members, 38; biographical details, 151-153; rearrangement of, 166; home-sickness in, ii. 62, 67; three members dismissed, 69; their reinstatement, 73; reduction at Tokchen, 107; reorganization of, 110; preparation of new, for fresh expedition, 211, 226, 228; heavy baggage sent back to Leh, 229; parting with Robert and Rub Das, 229; Mohammedan festival, 260; losses and sickness, 265; superfluous baggage sacrificed, 269, 279, 282; directions to, 274; my hiding-place in, 345; festivities in honour of Governor of Saka, 368; divided into two parties, 371; combined again, 400; parting with my caravan leader and companions, 416; farewell to remainder of followers in Simla, 422
Cassels, Mr., present of tea from, ii.179
Chabuk-tso, lake, ii.322
Chak-chom-la pass, i. 191
Chakko, holy spring, miraculous powers attributed to, ii.106
Chaklam-la pass, ii.308
Chaktak-tsangpo, river, ii.45; preparations for excursion to,47; confluence with the Brahmaputra,48; measurements and ratios,49,65; journey northwards along,65; camp again on,335; eastward march along north bank of,337; return to,374
Chamo-lung-chen valley, ii.193
Chang, or native beer, i. 68
Changa, village of, i. 63
Chang-chenmo valley, bivouac at, i. 79; ii.233
Chang-la pass, i. 64; altar with prayer-streamers on summit of, 66
Chang-la-Pod-la pass, meaning of the term, ii.19; camp on,20
Chang-lung-barma valley, i. 81
Chang-lung-yogma valley, i. 81, 84; difficulties in, 82; camp and rest in, 82; sunshine and snow, 83; magnificent landscape of, 85
Changpas, Tibetan nomads, i. 119; friendliness of, 182, 188; habits and tastes, 184; skill in hunting, 185; hard life of, 186; disposal of their dead, 187
Chang-shung, a headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii.41
Chang-tang, the, desperate situation in, i. 163; our successful crossing of, 210
Chang Yin Tang, Chinese Commissioner in Tibet, correspondence with, i. 393, 397; ii.42,70
Chapka-la pass, i. 259
Charvak, camp at, ii.234
Chega-gompa temple, i. 280
Chema-yundung, river, ii.90,103; measurement of discharge,91
Chema-yundung-pu, heights of, ii.92
Chenmo,kotidarof Tankse, i. 73, 87
Chergip-gompa monastery, its single monk, ii.165
Cherok, district of, ii.88
Chesang-la pass, intense cold on, i. 274
Chhorten, or stone monument, i. 42
Chi Chao Nan, translation of passage from his work on source of the Sutlej, ii.183; accuracy of his statements,183
Chikum, view from camp at, ii.83
Chimre monastery, i. 64
Chinese Government, messages from, i. 389, 391; importance of supremacy in Tibet to the, 396; specimen of diplomatic correspondence, 397; courtesy of officials to author, 400
Chinese passport, efficacy of my, i. 299
Chini-chikang, nuns’ temporary quarters, Tashi-lunpo, i. 357
Chiptu-la pass, pilgrim route over, ii.388
Chiu-gompa monastery, visits to, ii.159,415
Chockar-shung-chu valley, ii.75
Chokchu, caravan bound for, met with, i. 270; the Governor of, ii.399
Choma-taka, cave of, ii.18
Chomo-sumdo valley, camp in, ii.16
Chomo-uchong, “High Nun,” ridge of, ii.41,333,344,362
Chong-yangal, camp at, ii.232
Christmas, our celebration of, i. 219; Ladaki hymn and dances at, 220; translation of hymn sung at, 221; comparison of different years, ii. 248
Chugge-lung valley, i. 271
Chungsang, a tributary of the Tsangpo, ii.45
Chunit-tso, lake, ii.322,387; warm sulphur spring at,323
Church festivals, Lamaist, i. 301
Churu pool, camp at, ii.67
Chuta district, sulphurous springs in, i. 82
Chykying, the Gova of, ii.314,316
Cleanliness, Ladakis’ contempt for, i. 150
Cockburn’s Agency, assistance in furnishing and transport, i. 28
Consul of Nepal, the, i. 304, 375
Correspondence, arrangements for forwarding, i. 72, 83, 87, 103; welcome arrival of, at the Ngangtse-tso, 254; and at Shigatse, 377
Corvée, system of, exacted on Tibetan high-roads, ii.328
“Cripple,” our faithful canine follower, i. 263
Crosby, expedition of, referred to, i. 98
Curzon, Lord, encouraging letter from, i. 3; leaves India, 4; on author’s use of name Trans-Himalaya, ii.413
Dagtse-tso, i. 217
Dahlgren, Dr. E. W., statement by, as to wall-maps in Venice, ii.406
Dalai Lama (Gyalpo Rinpoche), cowardly flight of, i. 244, 306; his sphere compared with that of the Tashi Lama, 323; disastrous policy of, 323
Dal-dervaseh, canal journey from, i. 32
Dalgleish, Mr., monument to, in Leh, i. 59
Dambak-rong, valley junction, ii.70; letter from the Tang Darin received at,70
Dam-chu, river, ii.181
Damm valley, ii.79
Dandy, or average man’s load, i. 166
Dane, Sir Louis, interview with, i. 7, 11
Dangbe-chu, river, i. 276
Dangbe-la pass, i. 277
Dangra-yum-tso, lake, permission to visit, refused, i. 247, 251; reputed salinity of, ii. 29; shape and extent of, 29; pilgrim routes round, 29; Nain Sing’s nomenclature of district, 30; proposed dash for, 382
D’Anville, maps by, referred to, ii.185,186,337,401
Dapsang, on the heights of, ii.248; Christmas box for the animals at,251
Daya Kishen Kaul, private secretary to Maharaja of Kashmir, assistance rendered by, i. 24, 28
Dead, barbarous disposal of the, i. 370
Deane, Sir Harold, i. 15
Deasy, Captain, “Fever Camp” of, i. 120; baggage and provisions left by, at Yeshil-kul, 128
“Deasy Group,” mountain mass, i. 131, 138
Dena-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, i. 364
Dentistry, drastic form of, ii.324
Devashung.SeeTibetan Government
Devotional exercises of pilgrims, Tashi-lunpo, i. 357
Dicha-la pass, importance of watershed, ii.375
Dikpa-karnak, or test-stone for sinners, ii.195
Ding-la, the highest pass crossed in our journey, ii.400
Dinner, State, at Simla, i. 12
Diri-pu monastery, my tent pitched on roof of, ii.193
Disguise, assumed by author, ii.277
Dogs: puppies taken with party, i. 34; frolics of, 37, 62, 69, 74, 143, 154; ii. 34, 41; from Pobrang added to caravan, i. 74; deserted by one of our, 78; a splendid feast, 108; loss of two, 259; two new followers, 263; an interesting event, 399; illness and deaths of, ii. 65, 67, 73, 251; another happy event, 238; loss of Brown Puppy, 293, 301; purchase of Takkar, 305; Little Puppy’s first experience of running water, 314; Takkar’s avowal of affection, 319; a sorrowful parting, 419
Dojas-chimbo, court in Tashi-lunpo, i. 308
Dokang valley, camp in, i. 279; Tibetan politeness in, 280
Dok-chu (Raga-tsangpo), river, voyage through rapids of, i. 418; its confluence with the Brahmaputra, 419; rock-drawings in valley of, 422; junction with the My-chu, 422; head sources of, ii.41
Dölchu-gompa monastery, mentioned, ii.182,187
Döle-gompa nunnery, i. 429
Dolma-la pass, pilgrim offerings on, ii.200
Dongchen-la pass, wild sheep on the, ii.380
Dongdong, glaciers of the, ii.92; peaks of the,103
Dongmo-chu, river, ii.39
Dopserma, island of the Langak-tso, ii.178
Dorab-la pass, ii.75
Dorche, or emblem of thunderbolt, i. 318
Dorche Tsuen, Governor of Saka-dzong, discussion of my return route with, ii.355-359,364; camp festivities in honour of,368; bid farewell to,370
Do-tsengkan, mountain, ii.33
Dras, river, i. 39; stone figures of Buddha near, i. 39; junction with the Wakkha, 40
Drugub, i. 67; our new caravan at, ii.226; salt-caravan at,228
Dsabo, title of official in Chagha, i. 416
Dsalung-la pass, importance of, ii.388
Duan Suen, Chinese official in Shigatse, i. 298, 388
Duff, General Sir Beauchamp, i. 16
Dufour, map by, ii.406
Dumbok-tso, lake, i. 219
Dunglung valley, ii.193
Dunglung-do, valley junction, ii.193
Dungtsa-tso, lake, our camp visited by Tibetans at, i. 192
Dung-yeilak, oasis of, ii.233
Dunka-la pass, view of the Shuru-tso from, ii.34
Dunlop Smith, Colonel J. R., private secretary to Viceroy, i. 11; arranges as to my correspondence, 103; letter to, from Tokchen, ii.107; consignment from, reaches Gartok,223; hospitality in Simla,420; good-bye to,423
Dupkang, or hermitage, ii.2
Dutreuil de Rhins, French explorer, i. 46, 47, 199
Dzong, or town with resident governor, i. 245
Dzundi village, medicinal springs at, i. 283
Eagles, i. 209
Earthquake at Selipuk, ii.399
Eclipse of the sun, incidents of the, i. 252
Electricity, generation of, by driftsand, ii.300
Elephant, a unique, i. 336
Emir Sing, brother of Maharaja of Kashmir, i. 26
Equipment of caravan, i. 28, 53; ii.211
Escort, our Pathan and Rajput, i. 28; our Tibetan, 404, 424; inspection of, ii.16; fresh, from Kyangdam,21; route discussed with,21; the Governor of Saka-dzong supplies military,365
Espionage, system of, i. 379
Europeans, Tibetan distrust of, i. 201; iron statues of, in Tashi-gembe monastery, 413; increased stringency of regulations regarding, ii.356
Fagu, bungalow of, ii.419
Family ties, looseness of Tibetan, i. 373
Field-mice, treacherous holes of, i. 92, 96, 147, 215, 223; ii.332,397
Fireworks, display of, at Srinagar, i. 27
Food supplies, calculations and estimates of, i. 73
Fox, surprise of a, i. 148
Francke, Pastor A. H., i. 54
Frithiof’s Saga, quotation from, ii.11
Fröding, quotation from, ii.6
Frost-bite, heartless desertion of victim of, ii.240
Funeral customs, gruesome, i. 369
Game, abundance of, i. 177, 205; ii.50
Gandän-chöding, nunnery of, i. 410
Gandarbal, first camp at, i. 33; departure of caravan from, 35
Gang-lung, mountain, ii.109,129
Gang-lung-chu, river, ii.105,129
Ganglung-gangri range, direction of, ii.395
Ganjevan, i. 36
Ganju-gompa monastery, ii.86
Ganju-la pass, ii.86
Gao, or small case with figure of Buddha, i. 247
Gara-la pass, ii.366
Gar-gunsa, arrival at, ii.219; misleading reports intentionally spread at,219; plans formed at,222; arrival of consignment from India,233; leave for Tankse,224
Gartok, men and baggage sent to, from Tokchen, ii.107; main caravan sent to, from Khaleb,208; letters received at,215; visit to the Garpuns of,215; friendly letter from Lien Darin at,216; consultation with Gulam Razul at,217; plans considered, and return to Ladak resolved on,218; leave for Gar-gunsa,219
Gaura, letters from home received at, ii.419
Gave-ting, massive of Kubi-gangri, ii.101,103
Gaw Daloi, Chinese Agent at Gyangtse, i. 388; correspondence with, 390, 392
Gazelles, Goa, i. 240
Gebuk-chu, confluence of, with the Chak-tak-tsangpo, ii.337
Gebuk-la pass, ii.341
Gebuk-yung, district of, ii.339
Geese, wild, flock of, i. 166; habits of, 167, 168; migrations of, ii.321; Tibetan reverence for,362
Gelong, order of priesthood, i. 351
“Gelugpa,” monastic sect founded by Tsong Kapa, i. 335
Gertse, nomads from, i. 179, 184, 192; ii.285; their distrust of each other, i. 193; house of chief of, ii.296
Getsa-rung, gold placer of, ii.276
Getsul, order of priesthood, i. 351
Ghe, bivouac at, and escort changed, i. 424
Goa-la pass, ii.387
Goa-lung valley, ii.387
Goang-shung, guides obtained at, ii.392
Goang-tso, lake, i. 217
Goats, taken with caravan for milk, i. 74
Gobrang, ridge of, i. 206
Gogra, camp at, i. 81
Gold, traces of search for, i. 174, 188; placers, ii.276,284
Gomo-selung country, i. 179
Gompa-sarpa, cemetery of Shigatse, i. 369
Gossul-gompa monastery, ii.122,135; novices in,145;lhakangof,146; Somchung, apartment in,146; view from roof,148
Gova, or district chief, i. 205
Governors, dual, Tibetan system of, ii.354
Govo, village of, ii.14
Govo-tsangpo, river, ii.13
Grünwedel, work on Buddhistic mythology by, i. 329n.
Gubuk-gompa monastery, ii.80
Guffaru, old, i. 52, 72, 81, 215; ii.40; appointed caravan leader on Muhamed Isa’s death,59; returns home with thirteen members of caravan,107; safe arrival at Gartok,144
Guide, vagaries of our, i. 428
Gulam Kadir, son of Nazer Shah, assistance rendered in Shigatse by, i. 377, 384
Gulam Razul, son of Nazer Shah, valuable services of, i. 56; ii.217-221; honours conferred on, i. 56; ii.221
Gunda-tammo, nunnery of, i. 423
Gunsang Ngurbu, a centenarian hermit, ii.18
Gunt, camp at, i. 37
Gurkang-pu valley, ii.80
Gurla Mandatta, mountain group, ii.104,106,111,112; varying aspects of,114ff.; denudation cones,157
Gyalpo Rinpoche, “the Precious King.”SeeDalai Lama
Gyang-chu, river, ii.88
Gyangtse, letters despatched to, i. 260; message from Chinese Agent at, 388; Muhamed Isa’s mission to, 391, 396
Gyebuk-la pass, important trade route, ii.47; view from,48
Gyegong valley, camp in, ii.371
Gyegong-la pass, ii.372
Gye-la pass, ii.361
Gyenor-tsangpo, river, ii.392
Gyuma-chu, river, ii.162
Hajji Baba, name assumed by author, ii.275
Hamdung, wandering lamas’ quarters in Tashi-lunpo, i. 357
Hastings, Warren, embassies to the Tashi Lama from, i. 321, 334
Hawkes, General, i. 16
Hemis, temple of, near Changa, i. 63
Hermit, cell of, near Linga-gompa, ii.2; his heroic vow,3; his prayers for the sick,4; ceremony of seclusion,5; quotation from Fröding,6; living death of,7,10; caves of, at Nyang-tö-ki-pu,8; Waddell on practice of seclusion for life,9; last offices,10; a centenarian,18
Himalayas, the, view of, from the Ta-la, i. 278; from the Angden-la, ii.35; from the Serchung-la,69
Hiraman, an old friend, i. 67, 73, 75
Hlabsen Dorche Barva, god of Tso-mavang, ii.131
Hlaje Tsering.SeeNaktsang, Governor of
Hle-lungpa valley, ii.193
Hlindug-ling, i. 289
Hodgson, map by, ii.401
Home-sickness in caravan, ii.62,67
“Horse years,” periods in Tibetan cycle of time, ii.190
Horses, purchase and numbering of, i. 49; qualities of different breeds, 49; auxiliary caravan of, hired from Tankse, 50, 67; trouble with, on leaving Leh, 61; first loss of, 75; field-mice holes dangerous for, 92, 96; ii.397; Ladaki consideration for dying, i. 93; stampede of, 99, 139, 178; ii.30; mortality among, i. 101-103, 135, 138, 149, 162, 181; ii.265; diet of Tibetan, i. 190; mules compared with, 198; death of my dapple-grey, 218; splendid condition of our Tibetan, 265; survivors at Shigatse, 297; our veterans, ii. 220, 229; my white Ladaki, 229, 265, 273; enormous wastage of, 240; Christmas box for our, 251; death of brown Shigatse, 264; and of my faithful white Ladaki, 279
Ho Tsao Hsing, secretary to the Tang Darin, ii.70
House, description of Tibetan stone, ii.14; domestic utensils and possessions,15
House-boats near Gandarbal, i. 33
Huc, Abbé, book on Tibet by, ii.402
Hymn, Tibetan, translation of, i. 221; wonderful chanting of, in Tashi-lunpo, 308
Ice, nomads’ distrust of the, i. 224, 227; singular formations of, on the Ngangtse-tso, 227
Idar, the Maharaja of, i. 15
Illness of author, i. 172
Images, manufacture of, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 368
Immurement, voluntary, of monks, i. 363; ii. 2, 8.SeeHermit
Impressions in stone, i. 337, 406
India, the Tashi Lama’s visit to, i. 321
Indian Government, the, sympathy of, i. 9; instructions of, as to author’s passport, 25, 26
Indus, the, previous search for rise of, i. 3; crossed beyond Lamayuru, 43; start for the source, ii. 208; guide and sheep hired, 210; discovery of source of, 212, 213; mental picture of its course, 213; justifiable feelings, 214
Instruments, scientific, taken on expedition, i. 29
Jackdaws, flock of, at the Shemen-tso, ii.272
Janglung, district of, ii.313
Japanese Embassy, representations on my behalf at Pekin by, i. 391
Jera, camp at, i. 44
Jukti-la pass, ii.215
Kabbalo, camp at, i. 279
Kachen, order of priesthood, i. 351
Kadakh, long narrow piece of white silk, i. 310
Kadsung valley, i. 80
Kailas, “the holy mountain,” views of, ii.106,111,112,181ff.; set out on pilgrimage round,189; Nyandi-gompa,190; pilgrims on the way,192,197; Diri-pu monastery,193; test-stone for sinners,195; universal Tibetan reverence for,196; the most famous mountain in the world,198; prostration pilgrimage described,199; pilgrims’ performance at Dung-chapje,200; offerings on the Dolma-la,201; Tsumtul-pu monastery,202
Ka-la pass, view of, ii.396
Kali-Gandak, river, ii.78
Kalun, or high official, i. 201
Kamba-sumdo, ii.41
Kamba Tsenam, tent-encampment belonging to, ii.339; offer of guide declined,341; nocturnal visit to my tent,366; boastful talk of,367; “father of the robbers,”367; enormous tent of,367; good-bye to,372
Kamchung-chu, name of upper Chaktak-tsangpo, ii.337
Kam-la pass, i. 213
Kampo Lama, or abbot, i. 351
Kanchung-gangri range, ii.372,374,375
Kando-sanglam valley, view of Kailas through, ii.202
Kangan, tents pitched at, i. 36
Kanglung-bupchu, river, ii.46
Kanglung-la pass, tiresome ascent to, ii.45
Kang-rinpoche.SeeKailas
Kangsham-tsangpo, river, unpleasant crossing of, ii.306
Kanjur-lhakang, library of Tashi-lunpo, i. 333; lectures in, 366
Kapchor, camp at, i. 261
Kaptar-khane, camp at, ii.233
Karakash Darya, river, ii.252
Karakorum range, appearance of, from Chang-lung-yogma, i. 86; caravan enveloped by storm from, 91
Karbu, an old follower recognized at, i. 40
Karbu-la pass, ii.107
Kargan-la pass, ii.103
Kargil, trial and dismissal of Kashmiris and Pathans from caravan at, i. 41
Karma Puntso, Governor of Bongba, ii.304,321
Karma Tamding, of Tang-yung, guide and yaks supplied by, i. 213
Karong-tso, lake, ii.387
Karpun, an old acquaintance, i. 253
Karu monastery, i. 63
Karu, camp at, i. 404
Kashmir, Maharaja of (Sir Pratab Sing), reception of author by, i. 26; fête given by, in honour of Emperor of India’s birthday, 27
Kashmiris, dismissal of, i. 41
Kayi-pangbuk, camp at, i. 262
Kayi-rung valley, i. 262
Kebechungu country, configuration of the, i. 196; dust-storm in, 196
Kelung-tsangpo, river, i. 264
Kesar-tsangpo, river, i. 262
Keva, mountain peak, i. 216
Khaleb, river, ii.181; camp on moor,181,189,203
Kichung-la pass, ii.45
Kien Lung, Emperor of China, visited by third Tashi Lama, i. 334
Kilung-la pass, view from, ii.69
Kinchen-la pass, ii.344; armed search-party visit our camp below the,345
Kitchen of Tashi-lunpo, gigantic tea-cauldrons in the, i. 361
Kitchener, Lord, assistance promised by, i. 8; at Viceroy’s State dinner, Simla, 12; trophies and curios in house at Simla, 18; photograph of, in Tashi-lunpo, 321; hospitality to author, ii. 422; bid good-bye to, 423
Kograng-sanspo, river, i. 79, 81; difficulties in crossing, 80
Kokbo valley, camp in, ii.22-24; begging lama at,24; impending difficulties at,25
Köppen, book on Lamaism by, i. 329n.
Kore-la pass, ii.73,82; view from,78
Köteklik, ii.237
Kotgar, attend mission service in, ii.419
Krishna, the Pundit, i. 272; ii.404
Kubi-gangri, excursion to the, ii.88,99; source of the Brahmaputra located in,96; huge moraines of,99; glaciers of,100; description and names of peaks,102
Kubi-tsangpo, river, ii.90; measurement of discharge of,91; journey up the,91
Kuen-lun mountain system, i. 131, 142
Kulansorkiangs, wild asses, i. 74, 97, 154, 177; ii.95,161,285
Kule-la pass, ii.354
Kum-bum monastery, visited by third Tashi Lama, i. 334; miraculous tree in, 335
Kungchak-kong valley, ii.79
Kung Gushuk, Duke, brother of the Tashi Lama, i. 255, 282, 309; his house in Shigatse, 385; portrait drawn of his wife, 386
Kung-lung valley, false alarm at, i. 215; a prolonged storm, 216
Kung-muga, camp at, ii.82
Kung-sherya country, dangers of discovery in, ii.315-319
Kung-tsangpo, river, i. 262
Kuru-chok, double lake of, ii.104
Kyam-chu, valley of, ii.36; junction of river with the Amchok-tso,39; delta of,39
Kyangdam plain, camp on the, ii.20
Kyangdam-tsangpo, river, ii.34
Kyerkye valley, ii.48