Labrang, the, palace of the Tashi Lama, i. 317, 330“Lac Ammoniac,” Dutreuil de Rhins’, i. 199Lache-to island, Langak-tso, wild-geese eggs on, ii.175La-chu, river, ii.181Ladaki pony, my white, i. 83, 170, 297; ii. 229, 265, 273, 279Ladakis of caravan, their cheerfulness, i. 76, 230; statements regarding the weather, 79; attention to dying horses, 93; prayers for successful journey, 139; festivities in camp, 146; ii.368; want of cleanliness, i. 150; marvellous memory of, 151; biographical details of, 151; Lamaists among, receive blessing of the Tashi Lama, 356; home-sickness among, ii.62,67; costume of, assumed by author as disguise,277Ladung-la pass, view from summit of, ii.313Laen-la pass, i. 223Lagbas(corpse-carriers), hereditary caste of, i. 370; gruesome occupation of, 371La-ghyanyak pass, i. 208Lakes, frozen, Tibetan distrust of, i. 227“Lama Rinpoche,” meaning of title, ii.2Lama temple at Shargul, i. 42Lamaism, a corrupt form of Buddhism, i. 312; founder of, 312; ii.29; books recommended for study of, i. 329n.Lamaist Church, festivals of the, i. 301Lamas, mendicant, i. 217, 383; various orders of, 351; devotional pilgrimage of wandering, 357Lamayuru, village and monastery of, i. 42, 43Lamblung valley, camp in, i. 259Lamlung-la pass, view from, ii.362Lamlung-la pass, Teri-nam-tso, ii.384Lanak-la pass, closed to author, i. 79Landslip, a huge, ii.238Langak-tso, lake, ii.122,157; levels taken of isthmus between Manasarowar and,167; earlier explorers’ visits,167; channel from Manasarowar to,168,180,186; legend as to origin of channel,169; outline of,169; sandspouts at,170; prolonged storm at,172; goose-island of,174,180; freezing of,180Langbo-nan monastery, twelve-year-old abbot of, ii.163,415Langchen-kabab, spring of, ii.182Langchen-kamba, valley and spring of, ii.105Langchen-kamba (Elephant river), Tibetan name for the Sutlej, ii.182Langmar village, camp at, ii.12Langmar-tsangpo, river (upper My-chu), ii.13Langta-chen massive, Kubi-gangri, ii.102Lap, severe climate of, ii.376Lapchung-tso, lake, ii.375Lapsen-Tari, view of Targo-gangri from, ii.20Largep, chief of, friction with, ii.28; presents from,34La-rock pass, i. 280Lashman Das, Pundit, i. 41La-shung country, i. 174La-shung-tso, lake, i. 174Lavar-gangri, mountain region, ii.397Lavar-tsangpo, river, ii.399Ldata valley, i. 74Leh, arrival at, and quarters in, i. 45; our final preparations in, 48, 53; advance caravan despatched from, 51; Hajji Nazer Shah, a wealthy merchant of, 55; assistance of Gulam Razul, his son, 56; description of town, 57; old palace of, 58; graves of Europeans in, 58; incidents of our send-off from, 60Lehlung-gompa, visit to monastery of, i. 425; stuffed yaks in, 426Lemchung-tso, lake, camp at the, ii.282; beginning of a thirty-days’ storm at,283Lenjo, valley of, i. 429Lesdain, Count de, i. 272; book on Tibet by, ii.400Letters, welcome arrival of, i. 256, 377; arrangements for forwarding, 72, 83, 87, 103; despatch of, from Tokchen, ii.107Lhasa, visit of officials from, i. 375, 395; Tundup Sonam and Tashi despatched with letters to, ii.42; instructions to Tibetans from, as to my journey,44Lhayak, camp in, ii.93Lien Darin, Amban of Lhasa, correspondence with, i. 393, 400; ii.42,216Lighten, Lake, camp and rest at, i. 101; personnel of caravan reduced at, 102; second camp at, 107; soundings and measurements of, 107-110; storm on, 111; a miserable night at, 115; varied memories of, 116; rescue party reach us, 118; sudden change of scenery on leaving, 119Liktse-gompa monastery, ii.74; skulls as drinking-vessels in,75Linga-gompa monastery, i. 430; disposal of deceased monk’s property, 431; view from, 432, 434; rhythmical chanting in, 432; Pesu temple in, 434; an optical illusion, 435Linga-kok village, camp at, i. 430Lingö village, rock-drawings near, i. 422Loang-gonga, river, ii.104Lobsang, my Tibetan follower, ii.227Lobsang Shunten, secretary to Governor of Naktsang, i. 249Lobsang Tsering, secretary to the Tashi Lama, visit of, in Shigatse, i. 298Lobsang Tsering, Tibetan nomad, i. 192, 193Lo Gapu, Nepalese frontier chief, ii.75,80Log, by Lyth of Stockholm, i. 108; ii.114Long, camp at, ii.239Lopchak Mission, the, a lucrative monopoly, i. 55Lopön Rinpoche.SeePadma SambhavaLosar, the (New Year Festival of Lama Church).SeeNew Year FestivalLo-shung, the, headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii.41Lukkong, village of, i. 70Luma-shar country, ii.306Lumbo-gangri, holy mountain, view of, from the Kilung-la, ii.69Lumbur-ringmo-tso, lake, ii.286; suspicions of nomads at,287; purchase of sheep at,289Lundup Tsering, leader of Naktsang party, ii.26Lungdep-chu, the, tributary of the Indus, ii.211Lungdep-ningri, head of wild sheep secured on, ii.211Lung-ganden-gompa monastery, i. 424; hermit of the, ii.3Lungnak valley, i. 78Lungnak-bupchu, stream, ii.323Lungring pass, ii.40Lung-yung, river, ii.92Lunkar, camp at, i. 74; arrangement of caravan on leaving, 75Lunkar-gompa monastery, ii.391Lunkar-la pass, ii.392Lunpo-gangri, peaks of, varying views, ii.325ff.Lying, successful, Tibetan admiration of, ii.350Mabie-tangsam-angmo, camp at, ii.389Ma Chi Fu, Chinese official from Lhasa, i. 400, 402Machung village, symbolic designs at, i. 421M’Swiney, Colonel, i. 16Ma Daloi, Chinese commander in Shigatse, i. 296, 315; celebration of Chinese New Year, 345; orders me to leave Shigatse, 391Madö Gemo, the fish-god of Tso-mavang, ii.130Ma-lung, river, i. 277Mamer, village of, i. 36Manasarowar, “the holy lake,” ii.106; Hindu veneration for,110; surpassing beauty of the lake and its surroundings,111; Tibetan superstitions as to,112,114; former levels,113; our first sail on,114; soundings and temperatures of,115ff.; lightning effects on,115; wonderful natural phenomena,116,117; long voyage on,121; pilgrims at,121,133; the lamas of Gossul-gompa astonished,122; outlets of,122; storm on,123; peculiar wave undulations,127; map of shore-line drawn,128; origin of lake determined,128; Tugu-gompa and Yanggo-gompa,130,132; Hindu homage to the,133; terrific storm on,136-140; succour from Gossul-gompa,141,142; monks’ contradictory statements as to,147; its sanctity,151; springs of,156,158; underground connection with Langak-tso,157,168; outline of,158; Chiu-gompa,159; our last days on,160; Pundi-gompa and Langbo-nan monasteries,162,163; amount of surface water flowing into,163; channel between Langak-tso and,168,180,186; Chergip-gompa,165; freezing of,180; journey along northern shore,415Mani ringmos, or stone cists covered with slabs i. 61Mankogh-la pass, i. 80Manlung valley, i. 78Manuel, cook to author, i. 21; his broken English, 99; sent home from Lake Lighten, 102, 106Maps referred to: of Nain Sing, i. 250, 258; ii,21,29,41,302,380,403; Ryder and Wood,41,85,90,405; Webber,89; D’Anville,185,186,327,401; Hodgson,401; Dufour,401; Saunders,402; Atkinson,402; Krishna,404March, length of a day’s, i. 73Marchar-tso, lake, i. 258Marium-chu, river, ii.90Marium-la pass, crossed by Nain Sing, ii.89Markham, Sir Clements, book by, mentioned, ii.402Markham, Lake, discovered and named by Captain Rawling, i. 148Marku-tso, lake, i. 224Marnyak-la pass, ii.104Marsimik-la pass, slow progress of caravan over, i. 76; disagreeable descent of, 77Martsang-tsangpo, river, ii.90Marx, Dr. Karl, i. 54Marx, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii.417Massieu, Madame, meeting with, at Taranda, ii.419Matayun, camp at, i. 39; disturbance in caravan at, 39Mausoleums of five Tashi Lamas in Tashi-lunpo, i. 330-338Medicine-chest, a popular, i. 29, 172; presented to the Tashi Lama, 316Memo-chutsen, warm spring of, ii.373Memory, examples of marvellous, i. 151Men-chu, river, ii.68Men-chu valley, camp in, ii.69Mendicants, Tibetan, i. 217Mendong-gompa monastery, tent-villages of, ii.380Menu, a tempting, i. 184Merke-sang, view from, ii.388Meteorological observations, i. 142Minto, Countess of, i. 13, 14, 19; ii.422Minto, Earl of, Viceroy of India, efforts on behalf of author, i. 9; State dinner and levée by, 12; receives author as his guest, 13; his popularity in India, and State service, 13; family life of, 14; author’s farewell to, and family, 19; hospitality of, ii.420; speech to my followers,421; good-bye to,422Mirage, perplexing effects of, i. 94; ii.273Mittag-Leffler, Professor, Stockholm University, ii.406Mogbo-dimrop country, i. 199; gloomy news in, 200Mohanlal, merchant of Leh, i. 45, 53Mohanlal, Hindu doctor, ii.416Mollah Shah, a former follower, met with, ii.234Monks in Tashi-lunpo, religious ceremonies by, i. 348 ff.; grades and number of, 351, 352; daily life of, 358, 366; great consumption of tea among, 359, 361; voluntary immurement of certain, 363; strict rule enforced, 364; manufacture of images by, 367; funeral customs, 369Monlam-gongma, ii.325Monsoon rains, importance of, ii.68Montgomerie, Colonel T. G., ii.89,403Moravian missionaries in Leh, kindness of, i. 54; admirable work among the Ladakis, 54, 55Morley, Lord, Secretary of State for India, i. 8, 9, 11; explains refusal of permission to enter Tibet, 10Muglib, muster of camp and inspection of animals at, i. 69Muhamed Isa, my caravan leader, i. 30; experience and qualifications, 46, 47; his preparations for equipment of caravan, 48; watchful care exercised by, 76; his opinion of the Rajput escort, 78; way-marks erected by, 83, 149; sets out for Gyangtse, 391, 396; arranges festivities in Basang camp, ii. 47; leaves with main caravan for Saka, 47; illness and sufferings of, 52, 53; his death, 54; funeral of, 56; appreciations of, 57, 58; inscription on tombstone, 58; Guffaru appointed his successor, 59; Mohammedans hold memorial feast, 60; depressing effects of his death, 62Muhamed Rehim, merchant from Khotan, ii.234Mukchung-simo massive, Kubi-gangri, ii.100,102Mukden, Christmas 1908 spent in, ii.248Mules, comparison of Poonch and Tibetan, i. 28, 198; heavy losses of, 149, 162, 163, 197; our new animals at Gar-gunsa, ii.220; tonic effects of whisky on,260,264; death of our last veteran,261Mundang, Nepal, caravan from, ii.75Munjam valley, ii.212Mun-tso, twin lakes, position of, ii.380My-chu-tsangpo, river, i. 269, 272; complicated system of, 276; confluence of Dok-chu with, 422; journey up valley of, 423 ff.; scenery of, 428; an eccentric guide, 428; commercial importance of valley route, 429Nadsum, camp at, i. 217Nagma-tsangpo (Chuma), river, ii.28Nagor, the Gova of, ii.84Nagrong valley, monk-doctor’s tent in, ii.296; animals and stores purchased in,297Nain Sing, his discovery of great lakes of central Tibet, i. 3; nomenclature of Bogtsang-tsangpo district, 206; outline of the Ngangtse-tso, 230; maps of, referred to, 250, 258; ii.21,29,41,302,380,403; on source of Brahmaputra,89Nakbo-gongrong-gangri, mountain, ii.376Nakbo-kongdo-la pass, ii.376Nakchu, pilgrims from, i. 200; purchases from, 202Naktsang, Governor of, refuses to allow caravan to proceed, i. 236, 243, 247; previous trouble with, 238; meetings with, 242, 247; his treatment by the Devashung, 243, 251, 376; my proposals to, 244; unexpected change of front by, 249; eclipse of sun explained to, 254; cordial leave-taking, 257Naktsang, horsemen from, our progress stopped by, ii.26; palaver and agreement with,27; costumes and equipment of,31Namachang district, camp in, i. 261Namarding valley, camp in, ii.107Nama-shu, camp at, ii.80Namchen valley, joint camp in the, ii.362; stores laid in at,364; renewed discussion of my return route at meeting in,364Namgyal-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, service in, i. 362Namla, village of, ii.85Namla-gompa monastery, ii.85Namreldi, valley and stream, ii.156Nangsang-la pass, ii.92Naong-rung valley, i. 263Naong-tsangpo, river, i. 262Nayala, mountain, i. 415Nazer Shah, Hajji, a wealthy patriarch of Leh, i. 55; lucrative monopoly in family of, 56; services rendered to author by his sons, 56, 377, 384; ii.217-221; commercial interests in Shigatse, i. 385Nebuk, village of, ii.80Neka district, camp in, i. 214; sickness in caravan at, 214Nema-tok, camp at, ii.310Nepal, the Consul of, at Tashi-lunpo, i. 304, 374; a stolen visit into, ii.79; temptation to extend journey southwards,81Nerung-tsangpo, river, ii.84Neve, Dr. Arthur, Srinagar, i. 23Neve, Dr. Ernest, i. 23New Year, Chinese, celebration of, i. 345New Year Festival, Tashi-lunpo: its popularity, i. 301; our dress for, and journey to, 303; a picturesque assemblage, 304; dresses at, 305; reasons for increase of interest in, 306; an enthralling hymn-chant, 308; arrival of the Tashi Lama and his court, 309; religious dances and masques, 311; effect on the spectators, 313; a symbolic fire, 314; combined dance of lamas, 315; general purpose and significance of the ceremonies, 315Ngangga, or Ganga, channel between Manasarowar and the Langak-tso, ii.180,186Nganglaring-tso, lake, irregular outline of, ii.398Ngangtse-tso, lake, rest at, i. 223; thickness of ice of, 224; hermit’s cave at, 225; soundings on, 226 ff.; sledge constructed, 226; singular ice-effects, 227-239; New Year’s Day 1907 on, 230; Nain Sing’s outline of, 230; crustaceæ in, 231; trying weather on, 232; letter with bad news from Robert, 236; meetings with Governor of Naktsang at, 242, 247; arrival of mail-bag, 254; reasons for remembering the, 257Ngartang, bivouac in, i. 277Ngavang, joint Governor of Saka-dzong, ii.353,368Ngomo-dingding, glaciers of, ii.92,96,101Ngurbu Tondup, our mail-carrier to Gyangtse, i. 260, 274; brings us good news, 282Ngurkung-la pass, ii.76Nien-chen-tang-la range, geographical importance of, i. 267, 272; ii.19,330; questions as to its direction and extent,217,324Nima-lung-la pass, ii.324Nima-pendi valley, ii.129Nima Tashi, chief of escort, ii.366No Man’s Land, i. 94Nomads, first meeting with, i. 179, 181; from Naktsang, 199; from Senkor, ii.290Nubra, i. 64Nuns, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 353, 356; in Mendong-gompa, ii.386Nurla station-house, i. 43Nyandi-gompa monastery, ii.190; periodic increase of pilgrims to,191; halls of,191Nyang-chu, river, i. 294Nyang-tö-ki-pu, hermits’ caves at, ii.8Nyanyo, village in Nepal, ii.80Nyapchu-tsangpo, river, ii.393Nyuku, friendliness of Gova of, ii.60,67; arrival and camp at,67Oang Gye, son of Governor of Saka-dzong, ii.353,368; his grief at shooting of wild-goose,362O’Connor, Major W. F., British Trade Agent at Gyangtse, i. 244, 389; interpreter to the Tashi Lama in India, 322; welcome surprise from, 377; correspondence with, 389; Muhamed Isa despatched to, 391, 396; gift of books from, ii.43,224Ogawa, Professor, Kioto University, translation by, ii.183Ogorung-tsangpo, river, ii.13“Om mani padme hum,” Tibetan sacred formula, i. 44; ii. 9, 48; Waddell’s remarks on, 204; universality of, 204-206; Köppen and Grünwedel’s translation of, 204Ombo, nomads from, i. 208Ombo, shrub used for fuel, ii.296Pabla, mountain range, i. 260; solution of important geographical problem of the, 267, 272Pachen valley, ii.112,126,161Pachung valley, ii.112,126,161Padma Sambhava, founder of Lamaism, i. 312; ii.29Pama, species of juniper, ii.13Pama valley, ii.79Pamzal, i. 78, 80Panchen Rinpoche, “the Great Precious Teacher.”SeeTashi LamaPanchor, brother of Kamba Tsenam, ii.342; acts as our guide,366; doubtful character of,372,376,378Panggong pass, i. 70Panggong-tso, lake, i. 70; previous visit to, 70Pangsetak, camp at, ii.45Pankur country, ii.290Parka, baggage sent to, ii.166; camp at,179Parka Tasam, threats by, ii.178Partridges, shooting of, causes suspicion, ii.304Parva valley, camp above the, ii.33Pasa-guk, village of, ii.65; unreliable data in,66Passes of the Trans-Himalaya, principal, ii.408; unknown, crossed by author,409; average height of,410Passport, Chinese, ultimate value of, i. 299; cancelling of, 395; terms of my new, 398; ii.21,27Pathans of escort, i. 28; difficulties with, 38; dismissed from caravan, 41Pati-bo, district of, i. 207Patterson, Captain, Joint-Commissioner of Ladak, kindness of, i. 46, 47; addresses caravan before starting, 51Pears, Colonel, Resident at Srinagar, letter from, i. 25Pedang-tsangpo, valley of the, ii.394,396Peling, or European, i. 200Pemba Tsering, of Saka, ii.60,63,348,354Pensa, Gova, ii.390Pere-pala, Nepalese merchants’ serai in Shigatse, i. 374Permanakbo-tang valley, camp in, i. 279Peter, Rev. Mr., Leh, i. 51, 54Pike-la pass, i. 213Pilgrimage of prostration, description of, ii.199Pilgrims, meeting with, and purchases from, i. 200, 202; on the Tsangpo, 292; in Tashi-lunpo, 353, 356; devotional exercises, 357; my experiences of Mecca, ii. 69; Hindu, at Manasarowar, 133, 153; on journey round Kailas, 192, 197; mental sketch of great routes of, 203Pinzoling, bridge at, i. 416Pobrang village, meeting with English sportsmen at, i. 71; rest for man and beast at, 72; arrangements made for letters, 72; our last point of contact with outer world, 72, 74Political complications: Tibetan Government officials’ visit in Shigatse, i. 375; orders from Tibetan and Chinese Governments, 388, 391; advice from Gaw Daloi, 392; letters to Chinese and Tibetan State officials, 393; Chinese supremacy, 395; letter from Chang Yin Tang, 397Pongchen-la pass, i. 260Poo, Moravian missionaries’ hospitality at, ii.417; Takkar’s return to,418Poonch, mules from, compared with Tibetan, i. 28; trouble with men from, 39Porung valley, sulphurous springs in, i. 269Poru-tso, lake, view of, ii.392Potu-la pass, i. 42Prayer formula, Tibetan, i. 301, 357, 404, 408Prayer-mills, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 360; in Tashi-gembe, 413; ubiquity of, ii.205Priesthood, orders of, i. 351; domination of the, in Tibet, 384Prostration pilgrimage, description of, ii.199Pu-chu, valley of, ii.40Pul-tso, lake, camp at, i. 131; sudden storms at, 133, 136; soundings and measurements, 133-135; crustaceæ in, 134; mysterious camp-fire, 135Pundi, double peaks of, ii.112,126,171Pundi-gompa monastery, ii.162Pung-chu, river, ii.85Punjab, Lieutenant-Governor of the, i. 12Puntsuk, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191Pupchung-tsangpo, river, i. 264Purang, epidemic of smallpox at, ii.92Pustin, Yarkand fur coat, i. 74Pusum village, camp at, i. 415Quadt, Count, German Consul-General, dinner given at Simla by, i. 16Quetta, i. 5Rabsang, biographical details of, i. 151Races, mixture of, in caravan, i. 31Radak valley, ii.353Raga-tasam, camp at, ii.41; route of Rawling’s expedition touched at,41; messengers despatched to Shigatse from,42; camp life at,43; Tibetan Government’s instructions regarding author,44; visit of the Gova of,63Raga-tsangpo, river.SeeDok-chuRagok valley, i. 206Rains, importance of monsoon, ii.68; our first, since leaving Ladak,74Rajputs of escort, i. 28; Muhamed Isa’s opinion of, 78, 103; sent home at Lake Lighten, 102, 106Rakas-tal.SeeLangak-tsoRambirpur, village of, i. 63Rartse plain, arrival of missing followers at camp in the, ii.399Ravak-la pass, ii.45Ravens, pertinacity of, i. 143, 148, 155, 164Rawalpindi, i. 21Rawling, Captain C. G., i. 16, 51; discovers Captain Deasy’s stores at the Yeshil-kul, 129; maps out Yeshil-kul district, 130, 137; Lake Markham discovered and named by, 148; expedition to Gartok under, ii.90Rehim Ali, lessons in rowing to, i. 108; terror of, in storm on Lake Lighten, 113; attacked by wild yak, 176; sacrifice offered up by, 194Religions, various, in caravan, i. 31, 53Ribbach, Mr. and Mrs., Leh, i. 55Richen-chu, river, ii.132Richung-chu, river, ii.129Rickshaws, reason for their abundance in Simla, i. 17Rigi-hloma, Gova of, interesting information by the, ii.393Rikchen, order of priesthood, i. 351Rinakchutsen, lake, camp at, i. 198Ringding, order of priesthood, i. 351Riochung country, camp in the, ii.276Robbers, in the Chaktak-tsangpo country, ii.335; Tibetan punishment of,336Robert, my faithful servant and meteorological assistant, i. 29, 39, 142, 150; medical skill of, 171; home-sickness of, ii.62; bad news received by,219; my parting with,229Rock valley, ii.67Rock-drawings in Dok-chu valley, i. 422Ronggak-chu, river, ii.104Ruins, encouraging effect of discovery of, i. 169Rukyok-tsangpo, river, and valley, ii.69,334Rung valley, bivouac in, i. 277Rung-chu, river, i. 280Rungma, village of, i. 285, 403Ryder and Wood, maps by, referred to, ii.41,85,90,405Sachu-tsangpo, river, ii.327; camp at the,361Sadung, camp at, i. 403Saka, permission for excursion granted by Governor of, ii.47; arrival at,51; difficulties with officials of,60; longing to get away from,61; village life,62; search-party from, visit our camp,345; my return route discussed with the Governor of,355-359,364Sakti, village of, i. 64Saka-gompa monastery, ii.62Salt-caravans, ii.64,323,329Salt lakes, gradual shrinking of Tibetan, i. 91; importance of their product, 193Salutation, Tibetan form of, i. 182, 240, 280, 429Samde-puk convent, ii.1; hermit’s cell near,2Samkang, or hermit’s cave, i. 224Samo-tsangpo, river, fish of, ii.107Samye-la pass, hydrographical and geographical importance of, ii.329; unbroken continuance of the Trans-Himalaya proved at,330; not on the same chain as the Angden-la,330Sanchen-la pass, ii.310Sandhills, shifting, on the Brahmaputra, ii.86Sand-spout, near Amchok-yung, ii.36Sangchen-chu, river, camp at the, ii.308Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from chief of, ii.383Sangmo-bertik valley, ii.375Sangmo-bertik-la pass, ii.377Sangra, mountain, i. 264Sangra-palhe valley, i. 265Saspul, i. 44Satsot-la pass, ii.322Saunders, map by, ii.202Schnabel, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii.417Search-party from Saka, ii.345; their instructions regarding us,346,349; my recognition of Pemba Tsering and interview with,348-350; agree to accompany them to Semoku,350Sekya monastery, i. 281Sela-la pass, i. 267, 272; triumphant reflections at, 268Sele-nang valley, i. 266, 268Selin-do, camp at, i. 268Selipuk-gompa monastery, abbot of, ii.399; earthquake at,399Selung-urdu valley and glacier, ii.156Semoku, journey to, ii.353; meeting with Governor of Saka-dzong in,355-359; mutual courtesies at,360Senes-yung-ringmo, ii.285Sen-kamba-la pass, ii.103Senkor, nomads from, ii.290Seoyinna, mountain, i. 189Serchung-la pass, view from, ii.69Sereding, hill, i. 266Serme-lartsa, ii.40Serolung valley, camp at, ii.113Serolung-gompa monastery, ii.112Serpo-tsunge, mountain, i. 266Serpun-lam, the, great high-road of, ii.321,394Sershik-gompa monastery, ii.29Sertsang-chu, river, visit of Tibetans at, i. 217Sha-kangsham, mountain, ii.302,306,310,322,381Shak-chu, river, ii.20Sha-la pass, ii.36Shalung-la pass, ii.371Sham valley, camp in, i. 275Shamsang, camp at, ii.88Shangbuk-la pass, ii.25,32Shang-chu, river, i. 272
Labrang, the, palace of the Tashi Lama, i. 317, 330
“Lac Ammoniac,” Dutreuil de Rhins’, i. 199
Lache-to island, Langak-tso, wild-geese eggs on, ii.175
La-chu, river, ii.181
Ladaki pony, my white, i. 83, 170, 297; ii. 229, 265, 273, 279
Ladakis of caravan, their cheerfulness, i. 76, 230; statements regarding the weather, 79; attention to dying horses, 93; prayers for successful journey, 139; festivities in camp, 146; ii.368; want of cleanliness, i. 150; marvellous memory of, 151; biographical details of, 151; Lamaists among, receive blessing of the Tashi Lama, 356; home-sickness among, ii.62,67; costume of, assumed by author as disguise,277
Ladung-la pass, view from summit of, ii.313
Laen-la pass, i. 223
Lagbas(corpse-carriers), hereditary caste of, i. 370; gruesome occupation of, 371
La-ghyanyak pass, i. 208
Lakes, frozen, Tibetan distrust of, i. 227
“Lama Rinpoche,” meaning of title, ii.2
Lama temple at Shargul, i. 42
Lamaism, a corrupt form of Buddhism, i. 312; founder of, 312; ii.29; books recommended for study of, i. 329n.
Lamaist Church, festivals of the, i. 301
Lamas, mendicant, i. 217, 383; various orders of, 351; devotional pilgrimage of wandering, 357
Lamayuru, village and monastery of, i. 42, 43
Lamblung valley, camp in, i. 259
Lamlung-la pass, view from, ii.362
Lamlung-la pass, Teri-nam-tso, ii.384
Lanak-la pass, closed to author, i. 79
Landslip, a huge, ii.238
Langak-tso, lake, ii.122,157; levels taken of isthmus between Manasarowar and,167; earlier explorers’ visits,167; channel from Manasarowar to,168,180,186; legend as to origin of channel,169; outline of,169; sandspouts at,170; prolonged storm at,172; goose-island of,174,180; freezing of,180
Langbo-nan monastery, twelve-year-old abbot of, ii.163,415
Langchen-kabab, spring of, ii.182
Langchen-kamba, valley and spring of, ii.105
Langchen-kamba (Elephant river), Tibetan name for the Sutlej, ii.182
Langmar village, camp at, ii.12
Langmar-tsangpo, river (upper My-chu), ii.13
Langta-chen massive, Kubi-gangri, ii.102
Lap, severe climate of, ii.376
Lapchung-tso, lake, ii.375
Lapsen-Tari, view of Targo-gangri from, ii.20
Largep, chief of, friction with, ii.28; presents from,34
La-rock pass, i. 280
Lashman Das, Pundit, i. 41
La-shung country, i. 174
La-shung-tso, lake, i. 174
Lavar-gangri, mountain region, ii.397
Lavar-tsangpo, river, ii.399
Ldata valley, i. 74
Leh, arrival at, and quarters in, i. 45; our final preparations in, 48, 53; advance caravan despatched from, 51; Hajji Nazer Shah, a wealthy merchant of, 55; assistance of Gulam Razul, his son, 56; description of town, 57; old palace of, 58; graves of Europeans in, 58; incidents of our send-off from, 60
Lehlung-gompa, visit to monastery of, i. 425; stuffed yaks in, 426
Lemchung-tso, lake, camp at the, ii.282; beginning of a thirty-days’ storm at,283
Lenjo, valley of, i. 429
Lesdain, Count de, i. 272; book on Tibet by, ii.400
Letters, welcome arrival of, i. 256, 377; arrangements for forwarding, 72, 83, 87, 103; despatch of, from Tokchen, ii.107
Lhasa, visit of officials from, i. 375, 395; Tundup Sonam and Tashi despatched with letters to, ii.42; instructions to Tibetans from, as to my journey,44
Lhayak, camp in, ii.93
Lien Darin, Amban of Lhasa, correspondence with, i. 393, 400; ii.42,216
Lighten, Lake, camp and rest at, i. 101; personnel of caravan reduced at, 102; second camp at, 107; soundings and measurements of, 107-110; storm on, 111; a miserable night at, 115; varied memories of, 116; rescue party reach us, 118; sudden change of scenery on leaving, 119
Liktse-gompa monastery, ii.74; skulls as drinking-vessels in,75
Linga-gompa monastery, i. 430; disposal of deceased monk’s property, 431; view from, 432, 434; rhythmical chanting in, 432; Pesu temple in, 434; an optical illusion, 435
Linga-kok village, camp at, i. 430
Lingö village, rock-drawings near, i. 422
Loang-gonga, river, ii.104
Lobsang, my Tibetan follower, ii.227
Lobsang Shunten, secretary to Governor of Naktsang, i. 249
Lobsang Tsering, secretary to the Tashi Lama, visit of, in Shigatse, i. 298
Lobsang Tsering, Tibetan nomad, i. 192, 193
Lo Gapu, Nepalese frontier chief, ii.75,80
Log, by Lyth of Stockholm, i. 108; ii.114
Long, camp at, ii.239
Lopchak Mission, the, a lucrative monopoly, i. 55
Lopön Rinpoche.SeePadma Sambhava
Losar, the (New Year Festival of Lama Church).SeeNew Year Festival
Lo-shung, the, headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii.41
Lukkong, village of, i. 70
Luma-shar country, ii.306
Lumbo-gangri, holy mountain, view of, from the Kilung-la, ii.69
Lumbur-ringmo-tso, lake, ii.286; suspicions of nomads at,287; purchase of sheep at,289
Lundup Tsering, leader of Naktsang party, ii.26
Lungdep-chu, the, tributary of the Indus, ii.211
Lungdep-ningri, head of wild sheep secured on, ii.211
Lung-ganden-gompa monastery, i. 424; hermit of the, ii.3
Lungnak valley, i. 78
Lungnak-bupchu, stream, ii.323
Lungring pass, ii.40
Lung-yung, river, ii.92
Lunkar, camp at, i. 74; arrangement of caravan on leaving, 75
Lunkar-gompa monastery, ii.391
Lunkar-la pass, ii.392
Lunpo-gangri, peaks of, varying views, ii.325ff.
Lying, successful, Tibetan admiration of, ii.350
Mabie-tangsam-angmo, camp at, ii.389
Ma Chi Fu, Chinese official from Lhasa, i. 400, 402
Machung village, symbolic designs at, i. 421
M’Swiney, Colonel, i. 16
Ma Daloi, Chinese commander in Shigatse, i. 296, 315; celebration of Chinese New Year, 345; orders me to leave Shigatse, 391
Madö Gemo, the fish-god of Tso-mavang, ii.130
Ma-lung, river, i. 277
Mamer, village of, i. 36
Manasarowar, “the holy lake,” ii.106; Hindu veneration for,110; surpassing beauty of the lake and its surroundings,111; Tibetan superstitions as to,112,114; former levels,113; our first sail on,114; soundings and temperatures of,115ff.; lightning effects on,115; wonderful natural phenomena,116,117; long voyage on,121; pilgrims at,121,133; the lamas of Gossul-gompa astonished,122; outlets of,122; storm on,123; peculiar wave undulations,127; map of shore-line drawn,128; origin of lake determined,128; Tugu-gompa and Yanggo-gompa,130,132; Hindu homage to the,133; terrific storm on,136-140; succour from Gossul-gompa,141,142; monks’ contradictory statements as to,147; its sanctity,151; springs of,156,158; underground connection with Langak-tso,157,168; outline of,158; Chiu-gompa,159; our last days on,160; Pundi-gompa and Langbo-nan monasteries,162,163; amount of surface water flowing into,163; channel between Langak-tso and,168,180,186; Chergip-gompa,165; freezing of,180; journey along northern shore,415
Mani ringmos, or stone cists covered with slabs i. 61
Mankogh-la pass, i. 80
Manlung valley, i. 78
Manuel, cook to author, i. 21; his broken English, 99; sent home from Lake Lighten, 102, 106
Maps referred to: of Nain Sing, i. 250, 258; ii,21,29,41,302,380,403; Ryder and Wood,41,85,90,405; Webber,89; D’Anville,185,186,327,401; Hodgson,401; Dufour,401; Saunders,402; Atkinson,402; Krishna,404
March, length of a day’s, i. 73
Marchar-tso, lake, i. 258
Marium-chu, river, ii.90
Marium-la pass, crossed by Nain Sing, ii.89
Markham, Sir Clements, book by, mentioned, ii.402
Markham, Lake, discovered and named by Captain Rawling, i. 148
Marku-tso, lake, i. 224
Marnyak-la pass, ii.104
Marsimik-la pass, slow progress of caravan over, i. 76; disagreeable descent of, 77
Martsang-tsangpo, river, ii.90
Marx, Dr. Karl, i. 54
Marx, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii.417
Massieu, Madame, meeting with, at Taranda, ii.419
Matayun, camp at, i. 39; disturbance in caravan at, 39
Mausoleums of five Tashi Lamas in Tashi-lunpo, i. 330-338
Medicine-chest, a popular, i. 29, 172; presented to the Tashi Lama, 316
Memo-chutsen, warm spring of, ii.373
Memory, examples of marvellous, i. 151
Men-chu, river, ii.68
Men-chu valley, camp in, ii.69
Mendicants, Tibetan, i. 217
Mendong-gompa monastery, tent-villages of, ii.380
Menu, a tempting, i. 184
Merke-sang, view from, ii.388
Meteorological observations, i. 142
Minto, Countess of, i. 13, 14, 19; ii.422
Minto, Earl of, Viceroy of India, efforts on behalf of author, i. 9; State dinner and levée by, 12; receives author as his guest, 13; his popularity in India, and State service, 13; family life of, 14; author’s farewell to, and family, 19; hospitality of, ii.420; speech to my followers,421; good-bye to,422
Mirage, perplexing effects of, i. 94; ii.273
Mittag-Leffler, Professor, Stockholm University, ii.406
Mogbo-dimrop country, i. 199; gloomy news in, 200
Mohanlal, merchant of Leh, i. 45, 53
Mohanlal, Hindu doctor, ii.416
Mollah Shah, a former follower, met with, ii.234
Monks in Tashi-lunpo, religious ceremonies by, i. 348 ff.; grades and number of, 351, 352; daily life of, 358, 366; great consumption of tea among, 359, 361; voluntary immurement of certain, 363; strict rule enforced, 364; manufacture of images by, 367; funeral customs, 369
Monlam-gongma, ii.325
Monsoon rains, importance of, ii.68
Montgomerie, Colonel T. G., ii.89,403
Moravian missionaries in Leh, kindness of, i. 54; admirable work among the Ladakis, 54, 55
Morley, Lord, Secretary of State for India, i. 8, 9, 11; explains refusal of permission to enter Tibet, 10
Muglib, muster of camp and inspection of animals at, i. 69
Muhamed Isa, my caravan leader, i. 30; experience and qualifications, 46, 47; his preparations for equipment of caravan, 48; watchful care exercised by, 76; his opinion of the Rajput escort, 78; way-marks erected by, 83, 149; sets out for Gyangtse, 391, 396; arranges festivities in Basang camp, ii. 47; leaves with main caravan for Saka, 47; illness and sufferings of, 52, 53; his death, 54; funeral of, 56; appreciations of, 57, 58; inscription on tombstone, 58; Guffaru appointed his successor, 59; Mohammedans hold memorial feast, 60; depressing effects of his death, 62
Muhamed Rehim, merchant from Khotan, ii.234
Mukchung-simo massive, Kubi-gangri, ii.100,102
Mukden, Christmas 1908 spent in, ii.248
Mules, comparison of Poonch and Tibetan, i. 28, 198; heavy losses of, 149, 162, 163, 197; our new animals at Gar-gunsa, ii.220; tonic effects of whisky on,260,264; death of our last veteran,261
Mundang, Nepal, caravan from, ii.75
Munjam valley, ii.212
Mun-tso, twin lakes, position of, ii.380
My-chu-tsangpo, river, i. 269, 272; complicated system of, 276; confluence of Dok-chu with, 422; journey up valley of, 423 ff.; scenery of, 428; an eccentric guide, 428; commercial importance of valley route, 429
Nadsum, camp at, i. 217
Nagma-tsangpo (Chuma), river, ii.28
Nagor, the Gova of, ii.84
Nagrong valley, monk-doctor’s tent in, ii.296; animals and stores purchased in,297
Nain Sing, his discovery of great lakes of central Tibet, i. 3; nomenclature of Bogtsang-tsangpo district, 206; outline of the Ngangtse-tso, 230; maps of, referred to, 250, 258; ii.21,29,41,302,380,403; on source of Brahmaputra,89
Nakbo-gongrong-gangri, mountain, ii.376
Nakbo-kongdo-la pass, ii.376
Nakchu, pilgrims from, i. 200; purchases from, 202
Naktsang, Governor of, refuses to allow caravan to proceed, i. 236, 243, 247; previous trouble with, 238; meetings with, 242, 247; his treatment by the Devashung, 243, 251, 376; my proposals to, 244; unexpected change of front by, 249; eclipse of sun explained to, 254; cordial leave-taking, 257
Naktsang, horsemen from, our progress stopped by, ii.26; palaver and agreement with,27; costumes and equipment of,31
Namachang district, camp in, i. 261
Namarding valley, camp in, ii.107
Nama-shu, camp at, ii.80
Namchen valley, joint camp in the, ii.362; stores laid in at,364; renewed discussion of my return route at meeting in,364
Namgyal-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, service in, i. 362
Namla, village of, ii.85
Namla-gompa monastery, ii.85
Namreldi, valley and stream, ii.156
Nangsang-la pass, ii.92
Naong-rung valley, i. 263
Naong-tsangpo, river, i. 262
Nayala, mountain, i. 415
Nazer Shah, Hajji, a wealthy patriarch of Leh, i. 55; lucrative monopoly in family of, 56; services rendered to author by his sons, 56, 377, 384; ii.217-221; commercial interests in Shigatse, i. 385
Nebuk, village of, ii.80
Neka district, camp in, i. 214; sickness in caravan at, 214
Nema-tok, camp at, ii.310
Nepal, the Consul of, at Tashi-lunpo, i. 304, 374; a stolen visit into, ii.79; temptation to extend journey southwards,81
Nerung-tsangpo, river, ii.84
Neve, Dr. Arthur, Srinagar, i. 23
Neve, Dr. Ernest, i. 23
New Year, Chinese, celebration of, i. 345
New Year Festival, Tashi-lunpo: its popularity, i. 301; our dress for, and journey to, 303; a picturesque assemblage, 304; dresses at, 305; reasons for increase of interest in, 306; an enthralling hymn-chant, 308; arrival of the Tashi Lama and his court, 309; religious dances and masques, 311; effect on the spectators, 313; a symbolic fire, 314; combined dance of lamas, 315; general purpose and significance of the ceremonies, 315
Ngangga, or Ganga, channel between Manasarowar and the Langak-tso, ii.180,186
Nganglaring-tso, lake, irregular outline of, ii.398
Ngangtse-tso, lake, rest at, i. 223; thickness of ice of, 224; hermit’s cave at, 225; soundings on, 226 ff.; sledge constructed, 226; singular ice-effects, 227-239; New Year’s Day 1907 on, 230; Nain Sing’s outline of, 230; crustaceæ in, 231; trying weather on, 232; letter with bad news from Robert, 236; meetings with Governor of Naktsang at, 242, 247; arrival of mail-bag, 254; reasons for remembering the, 257
Ngartang, bivouac in, i. 277
Ngavang, joint Governor of Saka-dzong, ii.353,368
Ngomo-dingding, glaciers of, ii.92,96,101
Ngurbu Tondup, our mail-carrier to Gyangtse, i. 260, 274; brings us good news, 282
Ngurkung-la pass, ii.76
Nien-chen-tang-la range, geographical importance of, i. 267, 272; ii.19,330; questions as to its direction and extent,217,324
Nima-lung-la pass, ii.324
Nima-pendi valley, ii.129
Nima Tashi, chief of escort, ii.366
No Man’s Land, i. 94
Nomads, first meeting with, i. 179, 181; from Naktsang, 199; from Senkor, ii.290
Nubra, i. 64
Nuns, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 353, 356; in Mendong-gompa, ii.386
Nurla station-house, i. 43
Nyandi-gompa monastery, ii.190; periodic increase of pilgrims to,191; halls of,191
Nyang-chu, river, i. 294
Nyang-tö-ki-pu, hermits’ caves at, ii.8
Nyanyo, village in Nepal, ii.80
Nyapchu-tsangpo, river, ii.393
Nyuku, friendliness of Gova of, ii.60,67; arrival and camp at,67
Oang Gye, son of Governor of Saka-dzong, ii.353,368; his grief at shooting of wild-goose,362
O’Connor, Major W. F., British Trade Agent at Gyangtse, i. 244, 389; interpreter to the Tashi Lama in India, 322; welcome surprise from, 377; correspondence with, 389; Muhamed Isa despatched to, 391, 396; gift of books from, ii.43,224
Ogawa, Professor, Kioto University, translation by, ii.183
Ogorung-tsangpo, river, ii.13
“Om mani padme hum,” Tibetan sacred formula, i. 44; ii. 9, 48; Waddell’s remarks on, 204; universality of, 204-206; Köppen and Grünwedel’s translation of, 204
Ombo, nomads from, i. 208
Ombo, shrub used for fuel, ii.296
Pabla, mountain range, i. 260; solution of important geographical problem of the, 267, 272
Pachen valley, ii.112,126,161
Pachung valley, ii.112,126,161
Padma Sambhava, founder of Lamaism, i. 312; ii.29
Pama, species of juniper, ii.13
Pama valley, ii.79
Pamzal, i. 78, 80
Panchen Rinpoche, “the Great Precious Teacher.”SeeTashi Lama
Panchor, brother of Kamba Tsenam, ii.342; acts as our guide,366; doubtful character of,372,376,378
Panggong pass, i. 70
Panggong-tso, lake, i. 70; previous visit to, 70
Pangsetak, camp at, ii.45
Pankur country, ii.290
Parka, baggage sent to, ii.166; camp at,179
Parka Tasam, threats by, ii.178
Partridges, shooting of, causes suspicion, ii.304
Parva valley, camp above the, ii.33
Pasa-guk, village of, ii.65; unreliable data in,66
Passes of the Trans-Himalaya, principal, ii.408; unknown, crossed by author,409; average height of,410
Passport, Chinese, ultimate value of, i. 299; cancelling of, 395; terms of my new, 398; ii.21,27
Pathans of escort, i. 28; difficulties with, 38; dismissed from caravan, 41
Pati-bo, district of, i. 207
Patterson, Captain, Joint-Commissioner of Ladak, kindness of, i. 46, 47; addresses caravan before starting, 51
Pears, Colonel, Resident at Srinagar, letter from, i. 25
Pedang-tsangpo, valley of the, ii.394,396
Peling, or European, i. 200
Pemba Tsering, of Saka, ii.60,63,348,354
Pensa, Gova, ii.390
Pere-pala, Nepalese merchants’ serai in Shigatse, i. 374
Permanakbo-tang valley, camp in, i. 279
Peter, Rev. Mr., Leh, i. 51, 54
Pike-la pass, i. 213
Pilgrimage of prostration, description of, ii.199
Pilgrims, meeting with, and purchases from, i. 200, 202; on the Tsangpo, 292; in Tashi-lunpo, 353, 356; devotional exercises, 357; my experiences of Mecca, ii. 69; Hindu, at Manasarowar, 133, 153; on journey round Kailas, 192, 197; mental sketch of great routes of, 203
Pinzoling, bridge at, i. 416
Pobrang village, meeting with English sportsmen at, i. 71; rest for man and beast at, 72; arrangements made for letters, 72; our last point of contact with outer world, 72, 74
Political complications: Tibetan Government officials’ visit in Shigatse, i. 375; orders from Tibetan and Chinese Governments, 388, 391; advice from Gaw Daloi, 392; letters to Chinese and Tibetan State officials, 393; Chinese supremacy, 395; letter from Chang Yin Tang, 397
Pongchen-la pass, i. 260
Poo, Moravian missionaries’ hospitality at, ii.417; Takkar’s return to,418
Poonch, mules from, compared with Tibetan, i. 28; trouble with men from, 39
Porung valley, sulphurous springs in, i. 269
Poru-tso, lake, view of, ii.392
Potu-la pass, i. 42
Prayer formula, Tibetan, i. 301, 357, 404, 408
Prayer-mills, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 360; in Tashi-gembe, 413; ubiquity of, ii.205
Priesthood, orders of, i. 351; domination of the, in Tibet, 384
Prostration pilgrimage, description of, ii.199
Pu-chu, valley of, ii.40
Pul-tso, lake, camp at, i. 131; sudden storms at, 133, 136; soundings and measurements, 133-135; crustaceæ in, 134; mysterious camp-fire, 135
Pundi, double peaks of, ii.112,126,171
Pundi-gompa monastery, ii.162
Pung-chu, river, ii.85
Punjab, Lieutenant-Governor of the, i. 12
Puntsuk, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191
Pupchung-tsangpo, river, i. 264
Purang, epidemic of smallpox at, ii.92
Pustin, Yarkand fur coat, i. 74
Pusum village, camp at, i. 415
Quadt, Count, German Consul-General, dinner given at Simla by, i. 16
Quetta, i. 5
Rabsang, biographical details of, i. 151
Races, mixture of, in caravan, i. 31
Radak valley, ii.353
Raga-tasam, camp at, ii.41; route of Rawling’s expedition touched at,41; messengers despatched to Shigatse from,42; camp life at,43; Tibetan Government’s instructions regarding author,44; visit of the Gova of,63
Raga-tsangpo, river.SeeDok-chu
Ragok valley, i. 206
Rains, importance of monsoon, ii.68; our first, since leaving Ladak,74
Rajputs of escort, i. 28; Muhamed Isa’s opinion of, 78, 103; sent home at Lake Lighten, 102, 106
Rakas-tal.SeeLangak-tso
Rambirpur, village of, i. 63
Rartse plain, arrival of missing followers at camp in the, ii.399
Ravak-la pass, ii.45
Ravens, pertinacity of, i. 143, 148, 155, 164
Rawalpindi, i. 21
Rawling, Captain C. G., i. 16, 51; discovers Captain Deasy’s stores at the Yeshil-kul, 129; maps out Yeshil-kul district, 130, 137; Lake Markham discovered and named by, 148; expedition to Gartok under, ii.90
Rehim Ali, lessons in rowing to, i. 108; terror of, in storm on Lake Lighten, 113; attacked by wild yak, 176; sacrifice offered up by, 194
Religions, various, in caravan, i. 31, 53
Ribbach, Mr. and Mrs., Leh, i. 55
Richen-chu, river, ii.132
Richung-chu, river, ii.129
Rickshaws, reason for their abundance in Simla, i. 17
Rigi-hloma, Gova of, interesting information by the, ii.393
Rikchen, order of priesthood, i. 351
Rinakchutsen, lake, camp at, i. 198
Ringding, order of priesthood, i. 351
Riochung country, camp in the, ii.276
Robbers, in the Chaktak-tsangpo country, ii.335; Tibetan punishment of,336
Robert, my faithful servant and meteorological assistant, i. 29, 39, 142, 150; medical skill of, 171; home-sickness of, ii.62; bad news received by,219; my parting with,229
Rock valley, ii.67
Rock-drawings in Dok-chu valley, i. 422
Ronggak-chu, river, ii.104
Ruins, encouraging effect of discovery of, i. 169
Rukyok-tsangpo, river, and valley, ii.69,334
Rung valley, bivouac in, i. 277
Rung-chu, river, i. 280
Rungma, village of, i. 285, 403
Ryder and Wood, maps by, referred to, ii.41,85,90,405
Sachu-tsangpo, river, ii.327; camp at the,361
Sadung, camp at, i. 403
Saka, permission for excursion granted by Governor of, ii.47; arrival at,51; difficulties with officials of,60; longing to get away from,61; village life,62; search-party from, visit our camp,345; my return route discussed with the Governor of,355-359,364
Sakti, village of, i. 64
Saka-gompa monastery, ii.62
Salt-caravans, ii.64,323,329
Salt lakes, gradual shrinking of Tibetan, i. 91; importance of their product, 193
Salutation, Tibetan form of, i. 182, 240, 280, 429
Samde-puk convent, ii.1; hermit’s cell near,2
Samkang, or hermit’s cave, i. 224
Samo-tsangpo, river, fish of, ii.107
Samye-la pass, hydrographical and geographical importance of, ii.329; unbroken continuance of the Trans-Himalaya proved at,330; not on the same chain as the Angden-la,330
Sanchen-la pass, ii.310
Sandhills, shifting, on the Brahmaputra, ii.86
Sand-spout, near Amchok-yung, ii.36
Sangchen-chu, river, camp at the, ii.308
Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from chief of, ii.383
Sangmo-bertik valley, ii.375
Sangmo-bertik-la pass, ii.377
Sangra, mountain, i. 264
Sangra-palhe valley, i. 265
Saspul, i. 44
Satsot-la pass, ii.322
Saunders, map by, ii.202
Schnabel, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii.417
Search-party from Saka, ii.345; their instructions regarding us,346,349; my recognition of Pemba Tsering and interview with,348-350; agree to accompany them to Semoku,350
Sekya monastery, i. 281
Sela-la pass, i. 267, 272; triumphant reflections at, 268
Sele-nang valley, i. 266, 268
Selin-do, camp at, i. 268
Selipuk-gompa monastery, abbot of, ii.399; earthquake at,399
Selung-urdu valley and glacier, ii.156
Semoku, journey to, ii.353; meeting with Governor of Saka-dzong in,355-359; mutual courtesies at,360
Senes-yung-ringmo, ii.285
Sen-kamba-la pass, ii.103
Senkor, nomads from, ii.290
Seoyinna, mountain, i. 189
Serchung-la pass, view from, ii.69
Sereding, hill, i. 266
Serme-lartsa, ii.40
Serolung valley, camp at, ii.113
Serolung-gompa monastery, ii.112
Serpo-tsunge, mountain, i. 266
Serpun-lam, the, great high-road of, ii.321,394
Sershik-gompa monastery, ii.29
Sertsang-chu, river, visit of Tibetans at, i. 217
Sha-kangsham, mountain, ii.302,306,310,322,381
Shak-chu, river, ii.20
Sha-la pass, ii.36
Shalung-la pass, ii.371
Sham valley, camp in, i. 275
Shamsang, camp at, ii.88
Shangbuk-la pass, ii.25,32
Shang-chu, river, i. 272