CHAPTER XXV.

On the 20th of May I went with Mr. F. Rapp, who still remained in Pittsburgh with Gertrude, to visit some manufacturing establishments. We crossed the Monongahela near its mouth, in a skiff, to a salt-work on the left bank. With the earth-borer invented in England, and improved in America, they found salt water at the depth of a hundred feet. As this water was thought to be too weak, a pipe was placed in the well, and bored in another place, until at the depth of a hundred feet a sufficiently strong brine was obtained. The salt water collected and rose to the top. It is now pumped out by a small steam-engine into a boiler, where it is boiled for four hours. It is then poured into a large vat, to the depth of eight inches. It stands in this vat four hours; a little alum is added to precipitate earthy impurities. Hence, by a cock situated above the level of the precipitated matters, the fluid is drawn off into various kettles, in which the now pure brine is again boiled for four hours. Now the white salt begins to form, and is skimmed off with large iron ladles. This is a very simple process, saves expense and room, and appears to me far better than our great salt-houses. In returning to the city, we saw many iron-works, of which there are eight in the city and vicinity. One of them is a nail factory; the nail-cutting machine acts from above, and the workmen holds the rod to be cut with a pair of tongs, and has to move it at every stroke; a hammer strikes the nail which falls through in such a manner as to form the head. We also saw a steam-engine manufactory of considerable extent. I had seen such an establishment previously in England, but as most of the machines are made here in parts, one cannot see a great deal. What most interested me was a double lever, by which the holes are punched in iron plates for the boilers, which are riveted together; a work which requires a great degree of exactness.We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In thepatent-office at Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales.Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still red-hot were knocked asunder.In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged in the hall, as trophies, &c. An archof steel is formed over this hall by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these are English, and trophies of the late CommodorePerry’svictory on Lake Erie.The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o’clock, I went with Mr. Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. It is in Pittsburghstyleto go to this church, while it would be unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst’s pew, which was rather full, and the air hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted two hours.Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English.Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy,and the fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is warmed by steam, throughout.After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden wheels, turned by a horse-mill.We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still in its infancy.Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave.----CHAPTER XXV.Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city.On the 23d of May, at eight o’clock, we commenced our journey to Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it pleased me in every respect, and would havepleased me still more had I continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves Ramsay’s hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses but twice, at M‘Miller’s and New Alexandria. These changes are too distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the change.We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New Alexandria and Blairsville—all unimportant. The streams were the Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of cultivation. It was eleven o’clock at night before we reached Armagh, as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o’clock, A. M. we continued our journey.We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, Blair’s Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, we came to another of the parallel ridges,calledLaurel hill. I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on thismountain, were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten.After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed is called Blair’s Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which adjoins it.After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group of good houses, Blair’s Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made at Harper’s Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable manner.Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain.Parallel with the latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces its way. About nine o’clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred inhabitants.We intended to leave Alexandria at three o’clock, A. M., but the driver overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o’clock. We rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior’s ride, we returned seven miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack’s mountains, at the place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack’s mountains rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, thehigh Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till ten o’clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, though I heard it was very handsome.May 26th, we arose at two o’clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen’s Ferry. The water was low, so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick’s hill to Clark’s Ferry, on the Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark’s Ferry, we had an extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high Mount Peter on the other shore.At Clark’s Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna with its two extremities, not far from Clark’s Ferry, and again eight miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at Nazareth, then at Harper’sFerry, as I went to the west, and last of all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to Charlotteville.Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not united by mortar, but by iron clamps.At two o’clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, whereas the barns are generally built of stone,at least the lower parts containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie creeks.The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten o’clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds.I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took advantage of the cool morning to view the place.Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed woodenbridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, to cool wine.On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o’clock, A. M. The turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o’clock in the evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on which we rode for several miles.The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house.Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and returned to his friends at Washington.I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr.Roberts Vaux, the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, chargé d’affaires of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside over the house.Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls learn tosewand knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance.I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of making great progress in it.In order to teach the pupils the principles of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction gave me.I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for painting.II.33But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept together.I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since 1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because themerchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president Monroe’s administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to Washington.We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin’s grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, with the following inscription:—BenjaminetDeborahFranklin1790.I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy.Another visit was made to Peale’s Museum. I found, however, nothing new, except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and after they had died in convulsions, swallowed.Among the many gentlemen who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting change them into friends.I again met with a very friendly reception on the part of Mr. Arnold Halbach, and his brother. The former had the kindness to attend me in several of my excursions, as far as his extensive business would allow. He is a patron of the fine arts, and as such, took me to two painters of this place, Eicholz and Birch. The former, from Lancaster, is the son of a coppersmith, in which occupation he himself worked, but having a talent for portrait painting, he has devoted himself thereto with much success. His portraits have the merit of strong resemblance, and are also tolerably well, and correctly painted. The other artist, Birch, possesses a very fine talent for landscape painting, and particularly for sea-pieces. I had hoped to meet with views of the United States at his house, but was disappointed. Mr. Birch told me that landscape painters found so little encouragement in the United States, that they lost all courage to design handsome scenes in their native country. His sea-pieces are very handsome, but none are entirely completed. He is particularly happy in representing storms. Whilst Mr. Eicholz, with moderate talents, does much business, Mr. Birch, with great talent, is often a prey to severe distress.II.34I saw at the house of a dealer in looking-glasses, a gallery of pieces by living painters, among others, of Sully. One of these paintings is really terrific. It represents a man, who, with his horse, is attacked and entwined by an anaconda. The expression of pain in the horse is very well represented, but the countenance of the man, as well as the whole subject, is horrid. Few of the paintings were very remarkable; I was most pleased with one byBirch: a boat in a storm, in which the crew were saving themselves from a wreck.I inquired, in company with Mr. Niederstetter after maps, but the result was not very satisfactory. It is very difficult to furnish maps of the United States, as they have not yet been trigonometrically surveyed, and the only astronomical designation of places and maps are founded on common surveys. At a dinner given by General Cadwalader, commander of the Philadelphia militia, and one of the most distinguished citizens, among other new acquaintances, I made also that of General Harrison, of Cincinnati, senator of the United States. He had been a general in the army during the last war, and defeated the English General Proctor, on the boundaries of Canada, on which occasion, the celebrated Indian chief, Tecumseh lost his life. But the general, to the great regret and disadvantage of the army, resigned, on account of a dispute with the then secretary of war, Armstrong.At a party, which consisted of perhaps thirty persons, I was much questioned about my journey, and particularly about my stay at New Harmony. Mr. Owen’s system does not meet with much favour here, and it is not thought that his society will last long. Much offence is taken at its irreligious principles, and much surprise is manifested, that Mr. M‘Clure, as an old, learned and sensible man, should have been so captivated by this new system, as to declare in a meeting of a learned society, when a proposition was made to buy a new building, that they should only wait a couple of years, till this new social system should be extended over the country, as land would then be so cheap in the cities, that it might be purchased almost for nothing.I must not neglect to mention a little present from Mr. Vaux. It is a snuff-box, made of the wood of the elm tree at Kensington,II.35under which William Penn made the treaty of 1682, with the Indians. It is very simple, and decorated merely with a silver medal, on which is inscribed “Penn’s treaty, 1682,” and below, “unbroken faith.”----CHAPTER XXVI.Journey from Philadelphia to New York.—Coal-mines of Pottsville and Mauch Chunk.—Bethlehem.I leftPhiladelphia, June 3d, at four o’clock in the morning, to see the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains, and then pay another visit to my friends in Bethlehem; after which, I must repair to New York, as to my great sorrow, the time for my embarkation approached. I rode fifty-two miles in a mail stage to Reading. Notwithstanding a gust on the previous evening, it was again very warm, and on the latter part of the journey particularly, we were much incommoded by dust.At first we took the same way, which I had taken last autumn to Bethlehem, through Sunville, Germantown, and Chesnut Hill. The present appearance of the country was very different from its aspect at that rough season of the year. Every thing was now alive and green, and the numerous and elegant gardens of Germantown, were filled with the beautiful flowers. Although this place is three miles long, it presents no tedious uniformity. The various country-seats of the wealthy inhabitants of Philadelphia, which are tolerably close to each other, rather present an agreeable change. Chesnut Hill affords a very extensive view over the surrounding handsome and thickly inhabited country. The valley of the Schuylkill appeared to particularly great advantage, which by means of dams and canals, made near shallow places, is navigable till beyond the Blue Mountains. Beyond Chesnut Hill, we left the above-mentioned road and turned on the left to Norristown, a very romantic place on the left side of the Schuylkill. Before reaching this, we passed extensive marble quarries, which are about one hundred feet deep, and form very picturesque hollows. The blocks are raised by means of machines, worked by horses. This marble is gray, and is used in the fire-places of most of the respectable houses in Philadelphia. Several of the mile-stones on our road were also made of this marble. The cuttings are partly burned to lime and partly thrown on the turnpike. The turnpike, as an American one, was on this route tolerably good.Beyond Norristown we again rode through a very handsome country. Between Chesnut Hill and the marble quarries, we passed a good stone bridge over the Wissahiccon creek, which turns many mills. Between Norristown and Trap, a small placethrough which the road runs, we passed two other creeks, the Skippar and Perkiomen creeks, and at Pottsgrove, over a third, called Monataway creek, which here empties into the Schuylkill. The road then went over a hilly country through Warrensburg and Exertown, and over the Mannokesy and Rush creeks. At last we saw Reading, in a lovely valley. It had a military aspect, as a company of volunteers had held a review to-day, and were recreating themselves at a tavern near the town, after their toils. At five o’clock we reached Trautman’s tavern, where we found good lodgings.Reading contains about five thousand inhabitants; it consists of a long principal street, which is very wide, in the middle, and of several other streets, which cross it at right angles. The place depends on agriculture and some manufactories. Many hats, especially felt hats, are made here, which are sent in great numbers to the slave states and the West Indies. I here visited Mr. Hiester, former governor of Pennsylvania. This worthy old man bears his age, which is seventy-four years, remarkably well. He took me to his son-in-law, Dr. Muhlenberg, the German Lutheran minister of this place, son of the celebrated naturalist and learned man of this name, who died about ten years ago. We took tea at his house, and then walked to the Schuylkill, over which a covered wooden bridge led. We saw also a part of the canal, on which coal is brought to Philadelphia from the upper parts of the Schuylkill. Here at Reading, this canal ascends four locks, which appear to be built in a tolerably solid manner. It made a strange impression on me to hear every person speak German. On the road from Philadelphia, I had every where heard this language; but in Reading scarcely any thing else than German is spoken, and better than I had heard in the state of Ohio, or in Lancaster. Reading possesses a good German school under Dr. Muhlenberg’s direction, in which this language is taught in its purity. He himself has a numerous and selected library of English and German books. Two canal boats run at present alternately every week between Philadelphia and Reading, in which about one hundred travellers may be accommodated. They leave the one place at three o’clock in the morning, and reach the other about five o’clock in the evening.I hired at Reading a carriage with two horses, for three dollars a day, in order to visit the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains. I left Reading at seven o’clock in the morning, and rode thirty-six miles to Pottsville. We passed over a turnpike, which was occasionally very rough. It several times led us in the neighbourhood of the canal, the surface of which is about thirty feet wide on an average. It is lead by means of wooden boxes over several deep streams. Between Reading and Pottsvillethere are about eighty locks, several of which we passed; at one time I saw seven together, which formed a very pleasing sight. About noon we reached a little German place, called Hamburg, half way to Pottsville, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, not far from the Schuylkill and its canals. On the road to Hamburg, we passed but one creek which had a name, Maiden creek. I dined at Hamburg, and met, as it was Sunday, a number of idlers, all Germans, assembled in the tavern. Several Germans of education in the United States, made the remark to me, which I found but too true, that next to the Irish, the Germans form the roughest portion of the emigrants. The truth of this remark again forced itself on my attention in Hamburg, and especially in the case of a young doctor, who had formerly studied in several German universities, and gave vent to his giddiness in a vulgar manner. It was the first time in the United States that theaffectationof republicanism arrested my attention.Not far beyond Hamburg, we came to a defile where the Schuylkill forces a passage through the Blue Mountains. This narrow vale was very romantic, and my interest in the scene was greatly increased by the numberless blooming kalmias, improperly called laurel, the rhododendra, which offered a splendid sight amidst the rich vegetation of chesnut trees, butternuts, oaks, elms, sycamores, blooming tulip-trees, and sumacs. How frequently I thought of the great pleasure which my father would enjoy, if he could travel with me among these mountains, and admire the treasures of the vegetable world with his experienced eye! The way led along a mountain over the Schuylkill, which lay deep below me. It forms here a curve, and is made navigable by means of dams, as there was too little room to continue the canal on the side of it. After we had passed the chief defile of the Blue Mountains, we left for a time the navigable Schuylkill with its canal, and passed through a narrow vale, through which the little Schuylkill flows, which is covered with kalmias, rhododendrons, and some azaleas. Afterwards came another vale, formed by Scrub Hill and Scollop Hill; then a long mountain, called Limestone Ridge. Beyond this mountain we reached Orwigsburg, which, entirely enclosed by mountains, occupies a romantic situation; it is built in the form of a cross, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants. We rode farther, through a valley covered with trees, again reached the Schuylkill with its canal, and at length arrived at Pottsville.This place is scarcely to be found in any map, as it arose but three or four years ago, and owes its existence to the neighbouring coal-mines. The navigation of the Schuylkill commences here; this is the place where the vessels which navigate this canal and river, small keel-boats, are built. A couple of saw-mills areerected for this purpose, as well as a high furnace, in which the iron ore found in the neighbourhood is smelted. The coal-mines are worked under the direction of the Schuylkill Coal Company, which has made the Schuylkill navigable at its own expense, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia and New York. A bushel of coal, weighing eighty pounds, is sold at Philadelphia for twenty-five cents. The river was made navigable only about eighteen months ago, and it is only since this time, that they have commenced to dig out coal.Pottsville consists of a single street, lying in a somewhat narrow vale on the right shore of the Schuylkill, and owes its name to a Mr. Pott, who commenced the first iron works. The entrances of two coal-mines are seen on the shore opposite the place; there are some which, however, are not worked on account of scarcity of labourers. I became acquainted in our tavern with a Mr. Baker from New York, who is one of the chief men in this undertaking, as well as with a Mr. Taylor, editor of the paper called the Miner’s Journal, which bears a good character.I rode with these two gentlemen to the coal-mines, two miles and a half from Pottsville, and not far from Norwegian creek. The coal appears almost on the surface of the ground, in which a certain dark colour denotes its presence. No one thoroughly understands the business of coal-mining, and therefore it has hitherto been conducted in a very unsystematic and expensive manner. Shafts are made wherever it is thought that coal would be found, and when a vein is discovered it is worked. The veins run from east to west, and then descend in a southern direction at an angle of forty-five degrees; between the veins, slate is commonly found about twelve feet thick. Under the lower layer of slate, coals have been again discovered by boring, but have not yet been farther worked. The shafts are not much above twenty feet deep; the coals are brought up in buckets by means of two windlasses; at one place machinery worked by a horse is employed for this purpose. One shaft contains water, which, as the pumps are not yet in order, must be drawn out in buckets in a very tedious and expensive manner. The coal is of a superior quality, burns very well, and contains no sulphur. About fifty men work in the mines, each of which on an average receives monthly fifteen dollars. Hitherto the society has employed thirty vessels to transport the coals to Philadelphia. They are brought from the mines in large wagons to the head of the navigation, and are weighed before unloading. A profit of a certain amount is expected to arise from the working of these mines, which, however, will only be properly calculated, when the mines are worked more systematically. They design to connect the works with the river, which certainly would be a considerable saving,by means of a rail-road. A mountain, which runs parallel with that containing the mines, and which is yet covered with trees, is also said to contain great quantities of coal, but has not yet been worked.After this fatiguing excursion, as I had seen most of the mines, I left Pottsville on the 5th of June, and rode forty miles to Mauch Chunk at the junction of a creek of this name with the Lehigh. After passing Orwigsburg we turned to the left towards M‘Keansburg, through a woody valley not well settled, and this only near Pine creek. M‘Keansburg is a small place, and lies on an eminence, which affords a prospect of a romantic valley, through which Little Schuylkill flows. M‘Keansburg adjoins on one side a wood swarming with locusts, which made so much noise that they might be heard at a great distance. These locusts are seldom seen, and their present appearance is ascribed to the uncommonly dry spring. I walked among the trees, and found under the stones several crystallizations; I found among others, a stone perfectly resembling a petrified bird’s head with the beak. Many vegetable petrifactions, such as fern and leaves of the kalmia, are found in the slate between the veins of coal. I was told that the impression of a whole collection of snakes was found in a cavity in the slate, and that the impressions of the heads, particularly, were very distinct.After leaving M‘Keansburg we passed valleys and mountains, and reached, in this manner, the narrow and romantic valley of the Lehigh, by a very steep road. Lehighton, which lies at a junction of Mahoning creek and the Lehigh, consists of but few houses, and is supported in a miserable manner; because the land is too hilly and rough for cultivation, and the industrious village of Mauch Chunk, which is but three miles distant, withdraws from it all support. The country, however rough and unproductive as it may be for those who wish to live here, would afford a particular enjoyment to a botanist, and a lover of his science, by its rich and blooming vegetable productions.It began to grow dark when we reached Lehighton, I nevertheless continued on the road; this grew narrow, was partly cut out of the rock, and closely approached the right shore of the Lehigh as far as Mauch Chunk, which we reached after dark, and in a storm. I took lodging in the only inn, which, however, is very good and respectable, and kept by a quaker, Mr. Atherton. The place has only existed four years, and owes its origin to the neighbouring mines, which, with all the surrounding country, belongs to the Lehigh Coal Company; a company which possesses a large capital, has existed longer than its rival in Pottsville, and conducts its operations more systematically. One of the mostimportant stockholders is a quaker, Mr. White, who lives here, and has properly created every thing, and directs every thing himself. He visited me the same evening, and appeared to be a plain Friend, who however has reflected much on the good of mankind, and speaks very well.On the next morning Mr. White took me about the place; it lies in a very narrow vale surrounded with high mountains, which rise out of the Lehigh and are covered with trees. The company has made the Lehigh navigable, or rather is at present engaged in this work, by means of dams, locks and canals, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia with ease and cheapness.The canal, in which two locks stand at a distance of one hundred and thirty feet from each other, is thirty feet wide between the locks, the sides of which are covered with planks; behind this covering a wall has been erected, the crevices of which are filled with a liquid mortar. Mr. White calculates, that the covering of wood will last about thirty years, and that during this time, the wall will unite with the mortar and form a kind of rock. Neither the locks, nor the canal were finished, so that there was as yet but a temporary navigation. The coal is put into flat boats six feet wide and ten feet long; these are attached, two together and five behind each other, so that a kind of raft of ten boats, or rather a box is formed. When this raft arrives at Philadelphia, and the coal unloaded, these boats are taken to pieces, the boards sold, and all the iron which was in them, brought back to Mauch Chunk in carts. Two saw-mills are in constant operation for the building of these boats, the timber is previously cut in form, so that practised workmen may nail together such a boat in an hour. But as soon as the canal and the locks are finished, even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease, and coal be transported in steam-boats, which will pass up and down the river and canal. The banks of the canal are covered with stones, or rather formally paved, so that they may not suffer from the action of the wheels. The coal is taken from the mine in wagons to the place where it is put into boats, and there weighed. After this the carts move upon a disk which turns, where the horses are quickly unharnessed. The carts are then raised by means of a machine, worked by a horse, and when they have attained a certain height, are brought in an oblique position, so that the coals fall out into a kind of enclosure, where they remain till wanted; the boats are loaded by means of moveable broad iron gutters, which are elevated or depressed according to the height of the water. Grates are put in this gutter, so that the coals which are too small, and the dust, fall through, and merely the larger pieces fall into the vessel.Considerable quantities of iron ore are found near Mauch Chunk, in a sandy state, and near the surface of the earth, which is melted in furnaces, erected for this purpose. But they have not yet succeeded in doing this by means of stone coal, and are obliged to use charcoal. This iron is used to make rail-roads, which lead to the most important coal-mine, nine miles distant. They will facilitate the transportation of the coal to the water in a very great degree, and make this at least three-fourths cheaper. Iron carts are to be used on this rail-road. Its ascent to the mine amounts to one foot in a hundred; the empty carts are to be drawn up by horses, each of which draws four at the rate of three miles an hour; when they are loaded, they are carried to the river by their own weight, and make the passage in less than an hour. When they reach a certain point not far from the river, they are sent down an inclined plane, at an angle of forty-five degrees, and by means of machinery yet to be attached, they draw the empty carts by their weight up this plane.A very good turnpike, now leads to this important mine, nine miles from Mauch Chunk, along the romantic valley of the same name, which ascends but two feet in a hundred, so that we could trot the whole way. I went in company with Mr. White. The mountain is imperceptibly ascended, and it occasions surprise, when, after a ride of eight miles, the woods, which cover the mountains are left, to see Mauch Chunk creek, whose shore has apparently just been left, rushing deep below, and at the top of the mountain to find oneself in a coal-mine. It is a highly interesting sight, and alone worth a passage across the ocean. The coal does not here run in veins, but the whole mountain consists of a solid mass of coal, covered with a layer of clay at most a foot thick. The earth assumes a dark colour six inches below the surface; coal dust a foot and a half thick, is found at the depth of one foot, then comes the coal in small pieces, which are not used, but at a foot deeper the solid coal begins, which is broken off and sold. They have hitherto bored to the depth of sixty feet, and found nothing but the purest coal; they have however, dug but forty feet deep, and prefer working horizontally rather than perpendicularly. Except some veins of slate, which as solid rocks are not more than two feet thick, no heterogeneous substances are found among the coal. This is entirely black, and only those parts which are more or less exposed to the weather, are iridescent.These mines, which are not subterraneous, occupy at present a space of nearly four acres. An iron wedge forced by a hammer is used to break the coal. The stratum of coal is partly horizontal and partly at an angle of forty-five degrees; it seems as if ithad been once elevated and broken by a subterraneous power. The workmen are paid daily, gain about eighteen dollars a month, and occupy several houses not far from the mine. They have dug a well in the stratum of coal, which furnishes pure and good drinking water.We rode back to Mauch Chunk on the excellent road, made altogether on account of the mine. There is a place on the road where iron sand is dug, and whence runs a chalybeate spring, which leaves settlings of ochre. Two miles from Mauch Chunk we ascended the hill, on the other side of which, again quantities of coal are found. It is, however, very difficult to reach the layer on this high and steep hill, and the transportation of coals thence to Mauch Chunk would be attended with great inconvenience and expense. To obviate this, the company is cutting through the hill at a certain height, a tunnel in the rock, by which means the stratum may, to use the expression, be reached by the rear, and the conveyance of the coals be much facilitated. This tunnel is to be ten feet high and fifteen wide, with a rail-road in the middle. They have cut through two hundred feet already, and have yet one hundred and twenty feet to work, before they reach the coal. This labour is fatiguing and tedious; twelve men work day and night. They blast the rocks with powder, and advance but one foot in twenty-four hours.In the valley of Mauch Chunk creek, along the road, two furnaces are erected in order to cast the pieces necessary for the rail-road, to avoid their transportation and to accelerate the work on the road. Two saw-mills have also been built in this valley, but the water in the creek is generally too low to depend much on their assistance in such works. The company employs about one thousand eight hundred workmen, who live partly near the mine, but generally in small houses in the place belonging to the company. Their habitations form a street along Mauch Chunk creek, nearly half a mile long. A great number of them are married and have their families with them. The company has given them a clergyman, and a school with a good teacher, to instruct their children. A massive mill is also erected near the creek, in which all the flour necessary for the place is ground; the country is too rough for culture; the company exchanges in a very profitable manner coal for grain. Meadows have, however, been laid out in the valley, in order to gain the necessary hay for one hundred and twenty horses, which daily workhere.The creek also works bellows, by means of which the necessary draft of air is preserved in the furnaces and in the forges.A store belonging to the society, and furnished with all the necessary articles, is also kept here. In this the workmen andtheir families receive the necessary articles, the price of which is deducted from their wages. Every workman has his leaf in a large book, wherein his account stands, and besides a small pass-book, wherein a copy of his account is written. Every month, or if the workman prefers oftener, a settlement is made, and he receives a note on the treasurer for the money owing to him, unless he wishes it to remain in the treasurer’s hands. The company makes a great profit in this manner, and the greater part of the money expended flows back again into its treasury. The ground three miles up and down the Lehigh, belongs to the company, so that no one can dispute with them the monopoly of keeping a store. If other companies should be formed to dig coals in the mountains above Mauch Chunk, where great quantities are said to be found, they could not gain much, as this society has taken possession of the only outlet, the Lehigh, and on account of the locks could lay many difficulties in the way with regard to the transportation of other coal.I visited Mr. White in his tasteful house on the declivity of a mountain, whence he may see the whole of Mauch Chunk. He has a park behind his house, with tame game, which eat out of his hands. They consist of two stags and a female elk and her young one, which is already nearly as large and strong as a horse. They were obliged to shoot the male elk last autumn, as he attacked Mr. White and gave him eight wounds in the legs, with his horns, which confined the poor man about a month to his bed. The assistant of Mr. White ran to aid him, but received some wounds himself in the body, and would have been killed by the furious animal, if, at the cry of the two unfortunate men, a number of people had not hastened with poles and clubs to relieve them.At five o’clock in the evening, I left the interesting Mauch Chunk and went sixteen miles on the road to Bethlehem, as far as Cherryville. At Lehighton I took the left shore of the Lehigh passing two small creeks, Big creek, and Aquanshicola creek, and at last, (for the fifth time,) the Blue Mountains, through Lehigh Water Gap. This country must be very handsome, and it was with regret that I saw so little of it, but it began to grow dark, was very rainy weather, and thick clouds covered the Blue Mountains. Two miles from Water Gap we passed through a small place called Berlinville, and were yet two miles distant from Cherryville. In the darkness we could not see the posts which stand wherever roads cross, and there was no turnpike. We accordingly lost our way, and at a cross road knew not which direction to take. We ran about in the rain and the darkness, but found nothing which could have directed us. At last we took a road at random, fortunately the right one! But it was midnightbefore we reached Cherryville, where we found lodgings in a very good tavern. This whole country is inhabited by Germans, and the German language is the only one spoken.Cherryville consists of but few houses, has, however, an open and handsome situation, and the roads in the vicinity are planted with handsome and large cherry trees, whence the name of the place. I left this place, June 7th, at eight o’clock in the morning, and rode fourteen miles to much-esteemed Bethlehem. We passed through two small places, Kreiderville and Howardtown, and through a well-cultivated country; the grain and fruit, however, were suffering much from the drought, and beyond Howardtown we rode in a thick cloud of dust. I was uncommonly pleased, and felt quite at home, when, on leaving the woods, I saw the friendly Bethlehem before me. But it was quite different from what it was last autumn; it was then cold, and the trees beginning to lose their leaves; now summer had given every thing new life.At Bethlehem I went to my old quarters at Bishop’s tavern, and soon after my arrival visited the worthy Mr. Frueauf. He was the more pleased with my visit, as no one in Bethlehem believed that I would fulfil my promise of returning, except himself. He took me to his brother-in-law, the Reverend Mr. von Schweinitz, who, at the very time I was at Bethlehem last autumn, had visited my father in Weimar, and spoken with my wife. Mr. von Schweinitz is on the mother’s side a great grandson of Count von Zinzendorf, and the brother of a deceased Lieutenant von Schweinitz, with whom I had been in early years in a company of the Saxon Guards. He is a very agreeable man, who unites a polished education with an excellent character. At dinner I met with pleasure with the old Dr. Stickel. After dinner I walked with Mr. Frueauf and Mr. von Schweinitz, across Lehigh bridge, to a promenade along the river, leading to a semicircular place. Benches were placed here, and a spring was overarched to keep wine, &c. cool. We then went below the garden of the girl’s school to the mill of the congregation, where there is also a place under a handsome linden tree, affording a very pleasing view into the vale. But Mr. von Schweinitz was unfortunately obliged to leave here this afternoon on business of the society, and I could enjoy his extremely agreeable acquaintance but for a short time.I now visited Bishop Hueffel and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. I went again with the latter to the girl’s school, and again admired the great order which reigns there, and the handsome and fine work of the girls. In the evening I was present at service in the church; but it was not well attended, and consisted merely in singing several hymns, which Mr. Seidel sang, accompanied bya good organ. This devotional exercise occupied perhaps half an hour, and takes place every evening. The rest of the evening I spent in a very agreeable manner, at Mr. Seidel’s house, in company with Bishop Hueffel and Mr. Frueauf.The following day passed in a very agreeable manner. I read several allemanic poems of Hebel with Mr. Frueauf, who played to me on his piano, which instrument must not be wanting in any house here; these poems may well be called Pennsylvanian, as they are written in a dialect which is spoken here, especially in Lancaster county and in the western country. Bishop Hueffel showed me his handsome collection of sketches of great masters, which are selected with much taste and science, as well as several other good paintings and drawings. This worthy Bishop, is a man of polished education, in whose society nothing but profit can be obtained, on which account I was particularly sorry that I could not longer stay at Bethlehem. I also visited the sister’s house, and these maidens, who have grown old in honour, seemed to be much pleased with my repeated visit. I was obliged to go through all the rooms, sit with several, and tell them of my travels, which was done with the greatest pleasure. I found many of them employed in making hats of fine chips of the ash tree. These are woven in a loom like a bolting cloth, then cut and sewed into hats. A merchant of this place made this speculation, sells the hats at three quarters of a dollar a piece, and is said to do much business.But I could stay no longer. I left Bethlehem at five o’clock in the afternoon, with much regret, and rode twelve miles to Easton. The road led through a country tolerably hilly, and partly woody, but generally very well cultivated, and through one small place called Butstown. I had for several days past remarked, that instead of fences, dry walls were made in a very neat manner, consisting of numerous stones gathered from the fields. Easton, which I reached at seven o’clock, is a flourishing place of about three thousand inhabitants. It lies in a valley at the junction of the Delaware and Lehigh. The shores of both rivers, especially of the latter, are high; in this are also many rocks, and the country offers a number of picturesque views. The Delaware forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey; Easton on the right side belongs to the former. The place is regularly built. The greatest part of the houses are built of brick, though there are also some of stone. A large square place stands in the middle, surrounded with a row of Lombardy poplars, in the centre of which the Court-house is erected. I found these poplars in Pennsylvania, and especially in the eastern parts, preferred as an ornamental tree; in the greater part of the villages the streets, and even the roads, forsome distance are planted, and some farms are surrounded with them. But it is said they attract insects, which infest the houses, on which account they have been rooted up in many places, as for instance, in the streets of New York; in Pennsylvania, on the contrary, to obviate this evil, their trunks as far as the branches, are covered with whitewash. The butternut tree, the leaves of which resemble those of the ash, is also used as an ornamental tree. At Easton a roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting on two stone piers, and is about two hundred and seventy-seven paces in length. Like the generality of these bridges, it is divided into two parts lengthwise, in order that wagons may not meet each other. A handsome chain bridge, about two hundred and ten paces in length, leads over the Lehigh. It is divided into three parts lengthwise; the extreme parts being for wagons and horses, and the middle and smallest for foot passengers. This bridge was erected ten years ago, and though it has borne heavy loads, has not yielded in the least degree.I received in the evening visits from several Germans, who live in the place, among whom I mention particularly a physician, Dr. Muller, Mr. Schumann, and Mr. Till, from Bethlehem. The latter is a teacher of music and an instrument maker, in Easton. Mr. Schumann was sent to the seminary of the Moravians at Gnadenfeld in Silesia to become a minister. Not being pleased with this, he left Gnadenfeld, visited several German universities to study medicine, returned to America, and now dedicates himself in Easton to the law.

On the 20th of May I went with Mr. F. Rapp, who still remained in Pittsburgh with Gertrude, to visit some manufacturing establishments. We crossed the Monongahela near its mouth, in a skiff, to a salt-work on the left bank. With the earth-borer invented in England, and improved in America, they found salt water at the depth of a hundred feet. As this water was thought to be too weak, a pipe was placed in the well, and bored in another place, until at the depth of a hundred feet a sufficiently strong brine was obtained. The salt water collected and rose to the top. It is now pumped out by a small steam-engine into a boiler, where it is boiled for four hours. It is then poured into a large vat, to the depth of eight inches. It stands in this vat four hours; a little alum is added to precipitate earthy impurities. Hence, by a cock situated above the level of the precipitated matters, the fluid is drawn off into various kettles, in which the now pure brine is again boiled for four hours. Now the white salt begins to form, and is skimmed off with large iron ladles. This is a very simple process, saves expense and room, and appears to me far better than our great salt-houses. In returning to the city, we saw many iron-works, of which there are eight in the city and vicinity. One of them is a nail factory; the nail-cutting machine acts from above, and the workmen holds the rod to be cut with a pair of tongs, and has to move it at every stroke; a hammer strikes the nail which falls through in such a manner as to form the head. We also saw a steam-engine manufactory of considerable extent. I had seen such an establishment previously in England, but as most of the machines are made here in parts, one cannot see a great deal. What most interested me was a double lever, by which the holes are punched in iron plates for the boilers, which are riveted together; a work which requires a great degree of exactness.

We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In thepatent-office at Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales.

Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still red-hot were knocked asunder.

In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged in the hall, as trophies, &c. An archof steel is formed over this hall by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these are English, and trophies of the late CommodorePerry’svictory on Lake Erie.

The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o’clock, I went with Mr. Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. It is in Pittsburghstyleto go to this church, while it would be unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst’s pew, which was rather full, and the air hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted two hours.

Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English.

Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy,and the fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is warmed by steam, throughout.

After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden wheels, turned by a horse-mill.

We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still in its infancy.

Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave.

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Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city.

On the 23d of May, at eight o’clock, we commenced our journey to Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it pleased me in every respect, and would havepleased me still more had I continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves Ramsay’s hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses but twice, at M‘Miller’s and New Alexandria. These changes are too distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the change.

We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New Alexandria and Blairsville—all unimportant. The streams were the Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of cultivation. It was eleven o’clock at night before we reached Armagh, as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o’clock, A. M. we continued our journey.

We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, Blair’s Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, we came to another of the parallel ridges,calledLaurel hill. I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on thismountain, were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten.

After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed is called Blair’s Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which adjoins it.

After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group of good houses, Blair’s Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made at Harper’s Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable manner.

Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain.Parallel with the latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces its way. About nine o’clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred inhabitants.

We intended to leave Alexandria at three o’clock, A. M., but the driver overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o’clock. We rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior’s ride, we returned seven miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack’s mountains, at the place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack’s mountains rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, thehigh Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till ten o’clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, though I heard it was very handsome.

May 26th, we arose at two o’clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen’s Ferry. The water was low, so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick’s hill to Clark’s Ferry, on the Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark’s Ferry, we had an extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high Mount Peter on the other shore.

At Clark’s Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna with its two extremities, not far from Clark’s Ferry, and again eight miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at Nazareth, then at Harper’sFerry, as I went to the west, and last of all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to Charlotteville.

Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not united by mortar, but by iron clamps.

At two o’clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, whereas the barns are generally built of stone,at least the lower parts containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie creeks.

The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten o’clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds.

I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took advantage of the cool morning to view the place.

Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed woodenbridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, to cool wine.

On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o’clock, A. M. The turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o’clock in the evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on which we rode for several miles.

The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house.

Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and returned to his friends at Washington.

I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr.Roberts Vaux, the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, chargé d’affaires of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside over the house.

Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls learn tosewand knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance.

I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of making great progress in it.In order to teach the pupils the principles of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction gave me.

I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for painting.II.33But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept together.

I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since 1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because themerchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president Monroe’s administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to Washington.

We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin’s grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, with the following inscription:—

I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy.

Another visit was made to Peale’s Museum. I found, however, nothing new, except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and after they had died in convulsions, swallowed.Among the many gentlemen who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting change them into friends.

I again met with a very friendly reception on the part of Mr. Arnold Halbach, and his brother. The former had the kindness to attend me in several of my excursions, as far as his extensive business would allow. He is a patron of the fine arts, and as such, took me to two painters of this place, Eicholz and Birch. The former, from Lancaster, is the son of a coppersmith, in which occupation he himself worked, but having a talent for portrait painting, he has devoted himself thereto with much success. His portraits have the merit of strong resemblance, and are also tolerably well, and correctly painted. The other artist, Birch, possesses a very fine talent for landscape painting, and particularly for sea-pieces. I had hoped to meet with views of the United States at his house, but was disappointed. Mr. Birch told me that landscape painters found so little encouragement in the United States, that they lost all courage to design handsome scenes in their native country. His sea-pieces are very handsome, but none are entirely completed. He is particularly happy in representing storms. Whilst Mr. Eicholz, with moderate talents, does much business, Mr. Birch, with great talent, is often a prey to severe distress.II.34

I saw at the house of a dealer in looking-glasses, a gallery of pieces by living painters, among others, of Sully. One of these paintings is really terrific. It represents a man, who, with his horse, is attacked and entwined by an anaconda. The expression of pain in the horse is very well represented, but the countenance of the man, as well as the whole subject, is horrid. Few of the paintings were very remarkable; I was most pleased with one byBirch: a boat in a storm, in which the crew were saving themselves from a wreck.

I inquired, in company with Mr. Niederstetter after maps, but the result was not very satisfactory. It is very difficult to furnish maps of the United States, as they have not yet been trigonometrically surveyed, and the only astronomical designation of places and maps are founded on common surveys. At a dinner given by General Cadwalader, commander of the Philadelphia militia, and one of the most distinguished citizens, among other new acquaintances, I made also that of General Harrison, of Cincinnati, senator of the United States. He had been a general in the army during the last war, and defeated the English General Proctor, on the boundaries of Canada, on which occasion, the celebrated Indian chief, Tecumseh lost his life. But the general, to the great regret and disadvantage of the army, resigned, on account of a dispute with the then secretary of war, Armstrong.

At a party, which consisted of perhaps thirty persons, I was much questioned about my journey, and particularly about my stay at New Harmony. Mr. Owen’s system does not meet with much favour here, and it is not thought that his society will last long. Much offence is taken at its irreligious principles, and much surprise is manifested, that Mr. M‘Clure, as an old, learned and sensible man, should have been so captivated by this new system, as to declare in a meeting of a learned society, when a proposition was made to buy a new building, that they should only wait a couple of years, till this new social system should be extended over the country, as land would then be so cheap in the cities, that it might be purchased almost for nothing.

I must not neglect to mention a little present from Mr. Vaux. It is a snuff-box, made of the wood of the elm tree at Kensington,II.35under which William Penn made the treaty of 1682, with the Indians. It is very simple, and decorated merely with a silver medal, on which is inscribed “Penn’s treaty, 1682,” and below, “unbroken faith.”

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Journey from Philadelphia to New York.—Coal-mines of Pottsville and Mauch Chunk.—Bethlehem.

I leftPhiladelphia, June 3d, at four o’clock in the morning, to see the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains, and then pay another visit to my friends in Bethlehem; after which, I must repair to New York, as to my great sorrow, the time for my embarkation approached. I rode fifty-two miles in a mail stage to Reading. Notwithstanding a gust on the previous evening, it was again very warm, and on the latter part of the journey particularly, we were much incommoded by dust.

At first we took the same way, which I had taken last autumn to Bethlehem, through Sunville, Germantown, and Chesnut Hill. The present appearance of the country was very different from its aspect at that rough season of the year. Every thing was now alive and green, and the numerous and elegant gardens of Germantown, were filled with the beautiful flowers. Although this place is three miles long, it presents no tedious uniformity. The various country-seats of the wealthy inhabitants of Philadelphia, which are tolerably close to each other, rather present an agreeable change. Chesnut Hill affords a very extensive view over the surrounding handsome and thickly inhabited country. The valley of the Schuylkill appeared to particularly great advantage, which by means of dams and canals, made near shallow places, is navigable till beyond the Blue Mountains. Beyond Chesnut Hill, we left the above-mentioned road and turned on the left to Norristown, a very romantic place on the left side of the Schuylkill. Before reaching this, we passed extensive marble quarries, which are about one hundred feet deep, and form very picturesque hollows. The blocks are raised by means of machines, worked by horses. This marble is gray, and is used in the fire-places of most of the respectable houses in Philadelphia. Several of the mile-stones on our road were also made of this marble. The cuttings are partly burned to lime and partly thrown on the turnpike. The turnpike, as an American one, was on this route tolerably good.

Beyond Norristown we again rode through a very handsome country. Between Chesnut Hill and the marble quarries, we passed a good stone bridge over the Wissahiccon creek, which turns many mills. Between Norristown and Trap, a small placethrough which the road runs, we passed two other creeks, the Skippar and Perkiomen creeks, and at Pottsgrove, over a third, called Monataway creek, which here empties into the Schuylkill. The road then went over a hilly country through Warrensburg and Exertown, and over the Mannokesy and Rush creeks. At last we saw Reading, in a lovely valley. It had a military aspect, as a company of volunteers had held a review to-day, and were recreating themselves at a tavern near the town, after their toils. At five o’clock we reached Trautman’s tavern, where we found good lodgings.

Reading contains about five thousand inhabitants; it consists of a long principal street, which is very wide, in the middle, and of several other streets, which cross it at right angles. The place depends on agriculture and some manufactories. Many hats, especially felt hats, are made here, which are sent in great numbers to the slave states and the West Indies. I here visited Mr. Hiester, former governor of Pennsylvania. This worthy old man bears his age, which is seventy-four years, remarkably well. He took me to his son-in-law, Dr. Muhlenberg, the German Lutheran minister of this place, son of the celebrated naturalist and learned man of this name, who died about ten years ago. We took tea at his house, and then walked to the Schuylkill, over which a covered wooden bridge led. We saw also a part of the canal, on which coal is brought to Philadelphia from the upper parts of the Schuylkill. Here at Reading, this canal ascends four locks, which appear to be built in a tolerably solid manner. It made a strange impression on me to hear every person speak German. On the road from Philadelphia, I had every where heard this language; but in Reading scarcely any thing else than German is spoken, and better than I had heard in the state of Ohio, or in Lancaster. Reading possesses a good German school under Dr. Muhlenberg’s direction, in which this language is taught in its purity. He himself has a numerous and selected library of English and German books. Two canal boats run at present alternately every week between Philadelphia and Reading, in which about one hundred travellers may be accommodated. They leave the one place at three o’clock in the morning, and reach the other about five o’clock in the evening.

I hired at Reading a carriage with two horses, for three dollars a day, in order to visit the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains. I left Reading at seven o’clock in the morning, and rode thirty-six miles to Pottsville. We passed over a turnpike, which was occasionally very rough. It several times led us in the neighbourhood of the canal, the surface of which is about thirty feet wide on an average. It is lead by means of wooden boxes over several deep streams. Between Reading and Pottsvillethere are about eighty locks, several of which we passed; at one time I saw seven together, which formed a very pleasing sight. About noon we reached a little German place, called Hamburg, half way to Pottsville, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, not far from the Schuylkill and its canals. On the road to Hamburg, we passed but one creek which had a name, Maiden creek. I dined at Hamburg, and met, as it was Sunday, a number of idlers, all Germans, assembled in the tavern. Several Germans of education in the United States, made the remark to me, which I found but too true, that next to the Irish, the Germans form the roughest portion of the emigrants. The truth of this remark again forced itself on my attention in Hamburg, and especially in the case of a young doctor, who had formerly studied in several German universities, and gave vent to his giddiness in a vulgar manner. It was the first time in the United States that theaffectationof republicanism arrested my attention.

Not far beyond Hamburg, we came to a defile where the Schuylkill forces a passage through the Blue Mountains. This narrow vale was very romantic, and my interest in the scene was greatly increased by the numberless blooming kalmias, improperly called laurel, the rhododendra, which offered a splendid sight amidst the rich vegetation of chesnut trees, butternuts, oaks, elms, sycamores, blooming tulip-trees, and sumacs. How frequently I thought of the great pleasure which my father would enjoy, if he could travel with me among these mountains, and admire the treasures of the vegetable world with his experienced eye! The way led along a mountain over the Schuylkill, which lay deep below me. It forms here a curve, and is made navigable by means of dams, as there was too little room to continue the canal on the side of it. After we had passed the chief defile of the Blue Mountains, we left for a time the navigable Schuylkill with its canal, and passed through a narrow vale, through which the little Schuylkill flows, which is covered with kalmias, rhododendrons, and some azaleas. Afterwards came another vale, formed by Scrub Hill and Scollop Hill; then a long mountain, called Limestone Ridge. Beyond this mountain we reached Orwigsburg, which, entirely enclosed by mountains, occupies a romantic situation; it is built in the form of a cross, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants. We rode farther, through a valley covered with trees, again reached the Schuylkill with its canal, and at length arrived at Pottsville.

This place is scarcely to be found in any map, as it arose but three or four years ago, and owes its existence to the neighbouring coal-mines. The navigation of the Schuylkill commences here; this is the place where the vessels which navigate this canal and river, small keel-boats, are built. A couple of saw-mills areerected for this purpose, as well as a high furnace, in which the iron ore found in the neighbourhood is smelted. The coal-mines are worked under the direction of the Schuylkill Coal Company, which has made the Schuylkill navigable at its own expense, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia and New York. A bushel of coal, weighing eighty pounds, is sold at Philadelphia for twenty-five cents. The river was made navigable only about eighteen months ago, and it is only since this time, that they have commenced to dig out coal.

Pottsville consists of a single street, lying in a somewhat narrow vale on the right shore of the Schuylkill, and owes its name to a Mr. Pott, who commenced the first iron works. The entrances of two coal-mines are seen on the shore opposite the place; there are some which, however, are not worked on account of scarcity of labourers. I became acquainted in our tavern with a Mr. Baker from New York, who is one of the chief men in this undertaking, as well as with a Mr. Taylor, editor of the paper called the Miner’s Journal, which bears a good character.

I rode with these two gentlemen to the coal-mines, two miles and a half from Pottsville, and not far from Norwegian creek. The coal appears almost on the surface of the ground, in which a certain dark colour denotes its presence. No one thoroughly understands the business of coal-mining, and therefore it has hitherto been conducted in a very unsystematic and expensive manner. Shafts are made wherever it is thought that coal would be found, and when a vein is discovered it is worked. The veins run from east to west, and then descend in a southern direction at an angle of forty-five degrees; between the veins, slate is commonly found about twelve feet thick. Under the lower layer of slate, coals have been again discovered by boring, but have not yet been farther worked. The shafts are not much above twenty feet deep; the coals are brought up in buckets by means of two windlasses; at one place machinery worked by a horse is employed for this purpose. One shaft contains water, which, as the pumps are not yet in order, must be drawn out in buckets in a very tedious and expensive manner. The coal is of a superior quality, burns very well, and contains no sulphur. About fifty men work in the mines, each of which on an average receives monthly fifteen dollars. Hitherto the society has employed thirty vessels to transport the coals to Philadelphia. They are brought from the mines in large wagons to the head of the navigation, and are weighed before unloading. A profit of a certain amount is expected to arise from the working of these mines, which, however, will only be properly calculated, when the mines are worked more systematically. They design to connect the works with the river, which certainly would be a considerable saving,by means of a rail-road. A mountain, which runs parallel with that containing the mines, and which is yet covered with trees, is also said to contain great quantities of coal, but has not yet been worked.

After this fatiguing excursion, as I had seen most of the mines, I left Pottsville on the 5th of June, and rode forty miles to Mauch Chunk at the junction of a creek of this name with the Lehigh. After passing Orwigsburg we turned to the left towards M‘Keansburg, through a woody valley not well settled, and this only near Pine creek. M‘Keansburg is a small place, and lies on an eminence, which affords a prospect of a romantic valley, through which Little Schuylkill flows. M‘Keansburg adjoins on one side a wood swarming with locusts, which made so much noise that they might be heard at a great distance. These locusts are seldom seen, and their present appearance is ascribed to the uncommonly dry spring. I walked among the trees, and found under the stones several crystallizations; I found among others, a stone perfectly resembling a petrified bird’s head with the beak. Many vegetable petrifactions, such as fern and leaves of the kalmia, are found in the slate between the veins of coal. I was told that the impression of a whole collection of snakes was found in a cavity in the slate, and that the impressions of the heads, particularly, were very distinct.

After leaving M‘Keansburg we passed valleys and mountains, and reached, in this manner, the narrow and romantic valley of the Lehigh, by a very steep road. Lehighton, which lies at a junction of Mahoning creek and the Lehigh, consists of but few houses, and is supported in a miserable manner; because the land is too hilly and rough for cultivation, and the industrious village of Mauch Chunk, which is but three miles distant, withdraws from it all support. The country, however rough and unproductive as it may be for those who wish to live here, would afford a particular enjoyment to a botanist, and a lover of his science, by its rich and blooming vegetable productions.

It began to grow dark when we reached Lehighton, I nevertheless continued on the road; this grew narrow, was partly cut out of the rock, and closely approached the right shore of the Lehigh as far as Mauch Chunk, which we reached after dark, and in a storm. I took lodging in the only inn, which, however, is very good and respectable, and kept by a quaker, Mr. Atherton. The place has only existed four years, and owes its origin to the neighbouring mines, which, with all the surrounding country, belongs to the Lehigh Coal Company; a company which possesses a large capital, has existed longer than its rival in Pottsville, and conducts its operations more systematically. One of the mostimportant stockholders is a quaker, Mr. White, who lives here, and has properly created every thing, and directs every thing himself. He visited me the same evening, and appeared to be a plain Friend, who however has reflected much on the good of mankind, and speaks very well.

On the next morning Mr. White took me about the place; it lies in a very narrow vale surrounded with high mountains, which rise out of the Lehigh and are covered with trees. The company has made the Lehigh navigable, or rather is at present engaged in this work, by means of dams, locks and canals, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia with ease and cheapness.

The canal, in which two locks stand at a distance of one hundred and thirty feet from each other, is thirty feet wide between the locks, the sides of which are covered with planks; behind this covering a wall has been erected, the crevices of which are filled with a liquid mortar. Mr. White calculates, that the covering of wood will last about thirty years, and that during this time, the wall will unite with the mortar and form a kind of rock. Neither the locks, nor the canal were finished, so that there was as yet but a temporary navigation. The coal is put into flat boats six feet wide and ten feet long; these are attached, two together and five behind each other, so that a kind of raft of ten boats, or rather a box is formed. When this raft arrives at Philadelphia, and the coal unloaded, these boats are taken to pieces, the boards sold, and all the iron which was in them, brought back to Mauch Chunk in carts. Two saw-mills are in constant operation for the building of these boats, the timber is previously cut in form, so that practised workmen may nail together such a boat in an hour. But as soon as the canal and the locks are finished, even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease, and coal be transported in steam-boats, which will pass up and down the river and canal. The banks of the canal are covered with stones, or rather formally paved, so that they may not suffer from the action of the wheels. The coal is taken from the mine in wagons to the place where it is put into boats, and there weighed. After this the carts move upon a disk which turns, where the horses are quickly unharnessed. The carts are then raised by means of a machine, worked by a horse, and when they have attained a certain height, are brought in an oblique position, so that the coals fall out into a kind of enclosure, where they remain till wanted; the boats are loaded by means of moveable broad iron gutters, which are elevated or depressed according to the height of the water. Grates are put in this gutter, so that the coals which are too small, and the dust, fall through, and merely the larger pieces fall into the vessel.

Considerable quantities of iron ore are found near Mauch Chunk, in a sandy state, and near the surface of the earth, which is melted in furnaces, erected for this purpose. But they have not yet succeeded in doing this by means of stone coal, and are obliged to use charcoal. This iron is used to make rail-roads, which lead to the most important coal-mine, nine miles distant. They will facilitate the transportation of the coal to the water in a very great degree, and make this at least three-fourths cheaper. Iron carts are to be used on this rail-road. Its ascent to the mine amounts to one foot in a hundred; the empty carts are to be drawn up by horses, each of which draws four at the rate of three miles an hour; when they are loaded, they are carried to the river by their own weight, and make the passage in less than an hour. When they reach a certain point not far from the river, they are sent down an inclined plane, at an angle of forty-five degrees, and by means of machinery yet to be attached, they draw the empty carts by their weight up this plane.

A very good turnpike, now leads to this important mine, nine miles from Mauch Chunk, along the romantic valley of the same name, which ascends but two feet in a hundred, so that we could trot the whole way. I went in company with Mr. White. The mountain is imperceptibly ascended, and it occasions surprise, when, after a ride of eight miles, the woods, which cover the mountains are left, to see Mauch Chunk creek, whose shore has apparently just been left, rushing deep below, and at the top of the mountain to find oneself in a coal-mine. It is a highly interesting sight, and alone worth a passage across the ocean. The coal does not here run in veins, but the whole mountain consists of a solid mass of coal, covered with a layer of clay at most a foot thick. The earth assumes a dark colour six inches below the surface; coal dust a foot and a half thick, is found at the depth of one foot, then comes the coal in small pieces, which are not used, but at a foot deeper the solid coal begins, which is broken off and sold. They have hitherto bored to the depth of sixty feet, and found nothing but the purest coal; they have however, dug but forty feet deep, and prefer working horizontally rather than perpendicularly. Except some veins of slate, which as solid rocks are not more than two feet thick, no heterogeneous substances are found among the coal. This is entirely black, and only those parts which are more or less exposed to the weather, are iridescent.

These mines, which are not subterraneous, occupy at present a space of nearly four acres. An iron wedge forced by a hammer is used to break the coal. The stratum of coal is partly horizontal and partly at an angle of forty-five degrees; it seems as if ithad been once elevated and broken by a subterraneous power. The workmen are paid daily, gain about eighteen dollars a month, and occupy several houses not far from the mine. They have dug a well in the stratum of coal, which furnishes pure and good drinking water.

We rode back to Mauch Chunk on the excellent road, made altogether on account of the mine. There is a place on the road where iron sand is dug, and whence runs a chalybeate spring, which leaves settlings of ochre. Two miles from Mauch Chunk we ascended the hill, on the other side of which, again quantities of coal are found. It is, however, very difficult to reach the layer on this high and steep hill, and the transportation of coals thence to Mauch Chunk would be attended with great inconvenience and expense. To obviate this, the company is cutting through the hill at a certain height, a tunnel in the rock, by which means the stratum may, to use the expression, be reached by the rear, and the conveyance of the coals be much facilitated. This tunnel is to be ten feet high and fifteen wide, with a rail-road in the middle. They have cut through two hundred feet already, and have yet one hundred and twenty feet to work, before they reach the coal. This labour is fatiguing and tedious; twelve men work day and night. They blast the rocks with powder, and advance but one foot in twenty-four hours.

In the valley of Mauch Chunk creek, along the road, two furnaces are erected in order to cast the pieces necessary for the rail-road, to avoid their transportation and to accelerate the work on the road. Two saw-mills have also been built in this valley, but the water in the creek is generally too low to depend much on their assistance in such works. The company employs about one thousand eight hundred workmen, who live partly near the mine, but generally in small houses in the place belonging to the company. Their habitations form a street along Mauch Chunk creek, nearly half a mile long. A great number of them are married and have their families with them. The company has given them a clergyman, and a school with a good teacher, to instruct their children. A massive mill is also erected near the creek, in which all the flour necessary for the place is ground; the country is too rough for culture; the company exchanges in a very profitable manner coal for grain. Meadows have, however, been laid out in the valley, in order to gain the necessary hay for one hundred and twenty horses, which daily workhere.The creek also works bellows, by means of which the necessary draft of air is preserved in the furnaces and in the forges.

A store belonging to the society, and furnished with all the necessary articles, is also kept here. In this the workmen andtheir families receive the necessary articles, the price of which is deducted from their wages. Every workman has his leaf in a large book, wherein his account stands, and besides a small pass-book, wherein a copy of his account is written. Every month, or if the workman prefers oftener, a settlement is made, and he receives a note on the treasurer for the money owing to him, unless he wishes it to remain in the treasurer’s hands. The company makes a great profit in this manner, and the greater part of the money expended flows back again into its treasury. The ground three miles up and down the Lehigh, belongs to the company, so that no one can dispute with them the monopoly of keeping a store. If other companies should be formed to dig coals in the mountains above Mauch Chunk, where great quantities are said to be found, they could not gain much, as this society has taken possession of the only outlet, the Lehigh, and on account of the locks could lay many difficulties in the way with regard to the transportation of other coal.

I visited Mr. White in his tasteful house on the declivity of a mountain, whence he may see the whole of Mauch Chunk. He has a park behind his house, with tame game, which eat out of his hands. They consist of two stags and a female elk and her young one, which is already nearly as large and strong as a horse. They were obliged to shoot the male elk last autumn, as he attacked Mr. White and gave him eight wounds in the legs, with his horns, which confined the poor man about a month to his bed. The assistant of Mr. White ran to aid him, but received some wounds himself in the body, and would have been killed by the furious animal, if, at the cry of the two unfortunate men, a number of people had not hastened with poles and clubs to relieve them.

At five o’clock in the evening, I left the interesting Mauch Chunk and went sixteen miles on the road to Bethlehem, as far as Cherryville. At Lehighton I took the left shore of the Lehigh passing two small creeks, Big creek, and Aquanshicola creek, and at last, (for the fifth time,) the Blue Mountains, through Lehigh Water Gap. This country must be very handsome, and it was with regret that I saw so little of it, but it began to grow dark, was very rainy weather, and thick clouds covered the Blue Mountains. Two miles from Water Gap we passed through a small place called Berlinville, and were yet two miles distant from Cherryville. In the darkness we could not see the posts which stand wherever roads cross, and there was no turnpike. We accordingly lost our way, and at a cross road knew not which direction to take. We ran about in the rain and the darkness, but found nothing which could have directed us. At last we took a road at random, fortunately the right one! But it was midnightbefore we reached Cherryville, where we found lodgings in a very good tavern. This whole country is inhabited by Germans, and the German language is the only one spoken.

Cherryville consists of but few houses, has, however, an open and handsome situation, and the roads in the vicinity are planted with handsome and large cherry trees, whence the name of the place. I left this place, June 7th, at eight o’clock in the morning, and rode fourteen miles to much-esteemed Bethlehem. We passed through two small places, Kreiderville and Howardtown, and through a well-cultivated country; the grain and fruit, however, were suffering much from the drought, and beyond Howardtown we rode in a thick cloud of dust. I was uncommonly pleased, and felt quite at home, when, on leaving the woods, I saw the friendly Bethlehem before me. But it was quite different from what it was last autumn; it was then cold, and the trees beginning to lose their leaves; now summer had given every thing new life.

At Bethlehem I went to my old quarters at Bishop’s tavern, and soon after my arrival visited the worthy Mr. Frueauf. He was the more pleased with my visit, as no one in Bethlehem believed that I would fulfil my promise of returning, except himself. He took me to his brother-in-law, the Reverend Mr. von Schweinitz, who, at the very time I was at Bethlehem last autumn, had visited my father in Weimar, and spoken with my wife. Mr. von Schweinitz is on the mother’s side a great grandson of Count von Zinzendorf, and the brother of a deceased Lieutenant von Schweinitz, with whom I had been in early years in a company of the Saxon Guards. He is a very agreeable man, who unites a polished education with an excellent character. At dinner I met with pleasure with the old Dr. Stickel. After dinner I walked with Mr. Frueauf and Mr. von Schweinitz, across Lehigh bridge, to a promenade along the river, leading to a semicircular place. Benches were placed here, and a spring was overarched to keep wine, &c. cool. We then went below the garden of the girl’s school to the mill of the congregation, where there is also a place under a handsome linden tree, affording a very pleasing view into the vale. But Mr. von Schweinitz was unfortunately obliged to leave here this afternoon on business of the society, and I could enjoy his extremely agreeable acquaintance but for a short time.

I now visited Bishop Hueffel and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. I went again with the latter to the girl’s school, and again admired the great order which reigns there, and the handsome and fine work of the girls. In the evening I was present at service in the church; but it was not well attended, and consisted merely in singing several hymns, which Mr. Seidel sang, accompanied bya good organ. This devotional exercise occupied perhaps half an hour, and takes place every evening. The rest of the evening I spent in a very agreeable manner, at Mr. Seidel’s house, in company with Bishop Hueffel and Mr. Frueauf.

The following day passed in a very agreeable manner. I read several allemanic poems of Hebel with Mr. Frueauf, who played to me on his piano, which instrument must not be wanting in any house here; these poems may well be called Pennsylvanian, as they are written in a dialect which is spoken here, especially in Lancaster county and in the western country. Bishop Hueffel showed me his handsome collection of sketches of great masters, which are selected with much taste and science, as well as several other good paintings and drawings. This worthy Bishop, is a man of polished education, in whose society nothing but profit can be obtained, on which account I was particularly sorry that I could not longer stay at Bethlehem. I also visited the sister’s house, and these maidens, who have grown old in honour, seemed to be much pleased with my repeated visit. I was obliged to go through all the rooms, sit with several, and tell them of my travels, which was done with the greatest pleasure. I found many of them employed in making hats of fine chips of the ash tree. These are woven in a loom like a bolting cloth, then cut and sewed into hats. A merchant of this place made this speculation, sells the hats at three quarters of a dollar a piece, and is said to do much business.

But I could stay no longer. I left Bethlehem at five o’clock in the afternoon, with much regret, and rode twelve miles to Easton. The road led through a country tolerably hilly, and partly woody, but generally very well cultivated, and through one small place called Butstown. I had for several days past remarked, that instead of fences, dry walls were made in a very neat manner, consisting of numerous stones gathered from the fields. Easton, which I reached at seven o’clock, is a flourishing place of about three thousand inhabitants. It lies in a valley at the junction of the Delaware and Lehigh. The shores of both rivers, especially of the latter, are high; in this are also many rocks, and the country offers a number of picturesque views. The Delaware forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey; Easton on the right side belongs to the former. The place is regularly built. The greatest part of the houses are built of brick, though there are also some of stone. A large square place stands in the middle, surrounded with a row of Lombardy poplars, in the centre of which the Court-house is erected. I found these poplars in Pennsylvania, and especially in the eastern parts, preferred as an ornamental tree; in the greater part of the villages the streets, and even the roads, forsome distance are planted, and some farms are surrounded with them. But it is said they attract insects, which infest the houses, on which account they have been rooted up in many places, as for instance, in the streets of New York; in Pennsylvania, on the contrary, to obviate this evil, their trunks as far as the branches, are covered with whitewash. The butternut tree, the leaves of which resemble those of the ash, is also used as an ornamental tree. At Easton a roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting on two stone piers, and is about two hundred and seventy-seven paces in length. Like the generality of these bridges, it is divided into two parts lengthwise, in order that wagons may not meet each other. A handsome chain bridge, about two hundred and ten paces in length, leads over the Lehigh. It is divided into three parts lengthwise; the extreme parts being for wagons and horses, and the middle and smallest for foot passengers. This bridge was erected ten years ago, and though it has borne heavy loads, has not yielded in the least degree.

I received in the evening visits from several Germans, who live in the place, among whom I mention particularly a physician, Dr. Muller, Mr. Schumann, and Mr. Till, from Bethlehem. The latter is a teacher of music and an instrument maker, in Easton. Mr. Schumann was sent to the seminary of the Moravians at Gnadenfeld in Silesia to become a minister. Not being pleased with this, he left Gnadenfeld, visited several German universities to study medicine, returned to America, and now dedicates himself in Easton to the law.

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