[1]I have made use of this spelling, from the word cocoa being applied in the English language indiscriminately to that tree and to the cacao; and as we most probably derived the word from the Portuguese language, it may perhaps not be considered improper to distinguish the two plants in this manner.[2]A house answering both these purposes has lately been established at Recife by an Irishman and his wife. 1815.[3]It is perhaps not generally known, that the bags of cotton are compressed, by means of machinery, into a small compass, and fastened round with ropes, that the ships which convey them may contain a greater number.[4]I did not discover any vestiges of the fort which stood here at the time of the Dutch war.[5]I shall use this word exclusively, when speaking of Europeans of this nation; and the word Brazilian, when speaking of white persons born in Brazil.[6]This is the name by which the fort is usually distinguished, but I rather think that it is not its proper appellation.[7]I am not quite certain whether it is the third or fourth.[8]I sailed from Pernambuco in the very last convoy of 1815, previous to the peace with the United States, which consisted of twenty-eight vessels, viz. two ships of war, two prizes to them, and twenty-four merchant vessels, fourteen of which were from Pernambuco, and the remaining ten from Rio de Janeiro and Bahia.[9]An edict has lately been issued at Rio de Janeiro by the Regent, declaring himself the Prince Regent of the United Kingdoms of Portugal, Brazil, and the Two Algarves. 1816.[10]I saw, in the year 1814, a very fine root of wheat that had been raised in the Campina Grande of the province of Paraiba, about thirty leagues to the northward of Recife.[11]This has lately been removed to Recife, owing to a report of some plan of revolt amongst the negroes, which has since proved to be without foundation. 1815.[12]A Portugueze gentleman once observed to me, that in France and other countries many clever men had written and spoken strongly, and for a considerable length of time against this way of life, and that they at last even effected their purpose with much difficulty; but, he added, in Pernambuco such is the conduct of the friars, that no writing and no speaking is necessary to bring them into disrepute.[13]“Irmam, não tenha vergonha.”[14]In speaking of the Priesthood, it must be always recollected, that the Secular and Regular Clergy are two totally different bodies of men, and as distinct in their utility, their knowledge, and their manners, as they are in their situation in life.[15]I think that the Caza Forte and the Cazas de Dona Anna Paes, of which an account is given in the History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 124, distinguish the same place under different names.[16]When the Englishmen, who first established themselves at Recife, had finished the stock of tea which they had brought with them, they enquired where more could be purchased, and were directed to an apothecary’s shop. They went, and asked simply for tea, when the man wished to know what kind of tea they meant; he at last understood them, and said, “O, you want East-Indian tea,” “Cha da India,”—thus considering it as he would any other drug. But at the time of which I am now speaking, great quantities are consumed.[17]I once heard, that a person who had been in England, and had returned to Pernambuco, observed, that the two things which surprised him the most in that country, were, that the people did not die, and that the children spoke English. He was asked his reason for supposing that his first wonder was correct, to which he answered, that he never had seen the Sacrament taken to the sick.[18]AJuiz Conservador, Judge Conservator, of the British nation has been appointed for Pernambuco, but at the period of my departure from Recife, he was not arrived. Very soon after the commencement of a direct commercial intercourse with Great Britain, a vice-consul was appointed for Pernambuco, by the consul-general at Rio de Janeiro; this person was superseded by a consul sent out direct from England, who is subject to the consul-general of Brazil, but the place is disposed of by the government at home.[19]When Brazil was in its infancy, the clergy could not subsist upon their tythes, and therefore petitioned the government of Portugal to pay them a certain stipend, and receive the tenths for its own account; this was accepted, but now that the tenths have increased in value twenty-fold, the government still pays to the vicars the same stipends. The clergy of the present day, bitterly complain of the agreement made by those to whom they have succeeded.[20]A great confusion exists in Brazil respecting measures. Every captaincy has its own, agreeing neither with those of its neighbours, nor with the measures of Portugal, though the same names are used invariably: thus acanadaand analqueirein Pernambuco represent a much greater quantity than the same denominations in Portugal, and less than in some of the other provinces of Brazil.[21]A patent has been obtained, and a manufactory established upon a large scale for making cordage from the outward rind of the coco-nut. Ropes of this description are, I believe, much used in the East Indies.[22]An old woman applied at the gates of a convent, late one evening, and told the porter, an old friar, who was quite blind, that she wished one of the brothers to go with her, for the purpose of confessing a sick person. The old man, with perfect unconcern, gave her to understand, that they were all out, adding, “but if you will go to the garden gate, and wait there, some of them will soon be creeping in.”[23]The younger members of the Franciscan order enjoy very much the duty of going out to beg, as opportunities offer of amusing themselves. A guardian was chosen at Paraiba some years ago, who examined the chest in which the money belonging to the community was kept, and on finding a considerable sum in it, gave orders that no one should go out to beg. He was a conscientious man, and said, that as they had already enough, the people must not be importuned for more, until what they possessed was finished. He kept the whole community within the walls of the convent for the term of two or three years, for which each guardian is appointed. On another occasion, the friars of a Franciscan convent chose for their guardian a young man, whose life had been very irregularly spent in any thing rather than the duties of his calling, under the idea, that during the continuance of his guardianship, they would lead a merry life,—that very little attention would be paid to the rules and regulations of the Order; but they were mistaken, he changed his habits as soon as he found himself at their head; the gates were rigidly closed at the proper hour, and according to the old and vulgar proverb, of “Set a thief,” &c. the duties of the convent were performed with much greater austerity than before.[24]An anecdote was related to me of one of these couples, which occurred some years ago, under a former Governor. A solitary passenger, between Olinda and Recife, witnessed part of the following scene, and the remainder was described by one of the actors in it. A couple of criminals, of which one was a white man, and the other a negro, accompanied by their guard, were walking over the sands, to reach a ford, and cross the river at its narrowest part. Three horsemen, one of whom led a fourth horse, saddled and bridled, rode up, and one of them knocked the soldier down, whilst the white man of the chained couple urged his companion to go with him to the led horse, and mount up behind him: this the black man refused to do, when one of the horsemen, who seemed to direct the others, called out, “Cut the fellow’s leg off.” The criminals are secured to each other by the ankle. The negro now agreed, and both mounted the horse, and the whole party galloped away, first binding the soldier hand and foot. They passed through Olinda at full speed, and when they had arrived at some distance, a large file was made use of, and the negro was set down with all the chains and bolts. The party then proceeded, and were never afterwards heard of. It was imagined, that the man who made his escape in this manner, was the relation of a rich person in the interior, who had either committed some crime, or had been thus unjustly punished.[25]Lately, a cadet has come forwards, and has taken the direction of these matters; he has apprehended several persons of infamous character, but of determined courage; he has done much good, risking his life under circumstances of great danger, and even to extreme rashness has he been carried by his zeal. This young man well deserves promotion. That thus the police should fall into the hands of inferior officers, shows the irregular footing upon which it stands.—1814.[26]The arrival of another colonel to the regiment of Recife, and the increase of activity in the officers, has altered its appearance much for the better. The regiment of Olinda or of artillery, has been also much improved by the attention of its colonel, and the entrance into it of several well-educated Brazilian officers of the first families.[27]The lower part of the town is the site of the siege, which, in its infancy, the settlement sustained against the savages, as is “related by Hans Stade, the first traveller who wrote any account of Brazil.”—History of Brazil, Vol. I. p. 46.[28]I had frequent opportunities afterwards of resting at this inn; on one of these, I happened to ask for salt, which is not usually placed upon the table; the master of the house, in the customary familiar manner of the country, expressed his surprise, at the additional quantity of salt which I wished for, but it was brought to me, and nothing further was said. This occurred in the morning, soon after our arrival at the place; at dinner, to our dismay, the soup and almost all the other dishes were so plentifully supplied with the unfortunate ingredient, as to be scarcely eatable. We complained of this to the master, who answered, “Why, I thought you liked salt.” “Cuidei que eram amigos de sal.”[29]Is this word abbreviated fromDesertam, used as an augmentative (according to the Portugueze custom) forDeserto?[30]Matutos, woodmen, inhabitants of themato.[31]A person with whom I was afterwards acquainted, has since cleared one of these islands, and has formed some salt-works upon it.[32]The wordSertamis used rather indefinitely, as it does not only mean the interior of the country, but likewise a great part of the coast, of which the population is yet scanty, receives this general name. Thus, the whole of the country between Rio Grande and Pernaiba is called Sertam. Pernaiba is a small province, situated between Seara and Maranham.[33]The rafts employed upon small rivers are of a construction similar to those already described on a former occasion, save that still less workmanship is bestowed upon them.[34]History of Brazil, Vol. II. p. 104 and 155.[35]The castor tree is known in Brazil under the same name; indeed, there is much similarity between the seed of this plant, from which the oil is extracted, and the larger kind of tick.[36]Between two and three years after this journey, I heard again of my friend the Major. I became acquainted with a man who resided at the foot of the Serra do Teixeira, which is beyond the estates of the major’s father. The old colonel was killed by a bull before his own door. The animal had been driven into a small inclosure, and became mad from feeling himself confined. It was necessary to bring him to the ground, which is done in a peculiar manner, by running a short iron prong into a certain part of the thigh. The herdsmen were afraid, and wished to let the beast have time to cool and become less violent; the old man, who was between seventy and eighty years of age, told them, that if they were afraid, he would attack him, and immediately entered the inclosure; but before he could prepare to receive the bull, and was still leaning against the palings, the animal ran at him, and fixed his horns through the old man’s body, with sufficient force to run them into the palings, and in such a manner that before he could extricate himself, one of the herdsmen ran a long knife into his head between the horns, and brought him to the ground; but the old man lost his life.[37]“Falla a lingua de negro.”[38]Vide Appendix.[39]“Deixa estar meu amo.”[40]I heard in the beginning of the year 1815, that the bar had been completely choaked up during a violent gale of wind from the sea, whilst two coasters were in the river, taking in cargoes for Pernambuco.[41]This person has since been removed to a province of more importance.[42]“Mofino como caboclo.”[43]I heard, from good authority, that there are two instances of Indians having been ordained as secular priests, and that both these individuals died from excessive drinking.[44]Caboclo he so para hoje.[45]Another member of this family was also to be apprehended, but the governor could not fix upon any means by which the arrest was to be accomplished. A man of well-known intrepidity and of some power was sent for by the governor, to consult with him upon the subject. This person offered to go alone, and acquaint the Feitoza with the orders that had been issued against him, and in fact to try to take him into custody. He set off, but Feitoza was apprized of his coming and of his errand, and, immediately leaving his estate, proceeded to Bahia, where he embarked for Lisbon, arriving in due time at that place. The person who set off to arrest him followed him from place to place, arrived at Bahia, and embarked for and landed at Lisbon. He enquired for Feitoza, heard that he had spoken to the secretary of state, and had again embarked on his return homewards, but that the ship was delayed by contrary winds.Helikewise went to the secretary, and shewed the orders which he had received for the arrest of Feitoza, making known the particular crimes which had made his apprehension requisite. Feitoza was taken into custody and put into the Limoeiro prison, where his persecutor or prosecutor went to visit him, saying as he approached,—“Well, did not I say so,”—“Entam eu que disse,” alluding to his determination of apprehending him. He returned to Brazil and gave an account of his mission to the governor, from whom he had received his orders. This man was well known in the province of Searà, and the truth of the story is vouched for by many respectable persons with whom I conversed. This Feitoza has not been heard of.[46]Arruda says it is white, vide Appendix, therefore some other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw.[47]Cabeça de Vaca is particularly mentioned.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 109.[48]There is a print in Barlæus which represents the Portugueze crossing the river St. Francisco upon rafts or logs of timber; these must, I think, have been similar to those which are at present used in the Sertam.[49]A mulatto woman once said to me, “The children of mulattos are like whelps, they are of all colours.” “Filho de mulatto, he como filho de cachorro, hum sahe branco, outro pardo e outro negro.”[50]Dr. Manoel Arruda da Camara says, that before the dreadful drought of 1793, it was considered to be one of the duties of the herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that which was already half tamed, might not be induced to mix with it, and by this means become wild; and he adds, that this is still the case in the Sertoens of Piauhi. He published his pamphlets in 1810.[51]When I resided at Jaguaribe, and upon the island of Itamaraca, in the years 1813 and 1814, I took some pains in this matter; but the meat was not good, and though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavour than that of the same species of animal in England, still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more unequal to the mutton of England, than is the case respecting the beef of the two countries.[52]Lieutenant-Colonel Joam da Silva Feijò, in a pamphlet published at Rio de Janeiro in 1811, on the sheep of the province of Searà, says, “That the sheep of that part of the country bear wool which has all the marks of being of a superior quality; that it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of a good length, and strong.” He again says, “That the governor,” the same of whom I have spoken, “sent a small quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed.” I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Searà, and his opinion must of course be taken in preference to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the same province; however, I bought several as food, and their skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have above described. When I resided at Jaguaribe and Itamaraca, I possessed a considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak positively.[53]Vaccination is finding its way among them in spite of prejudice.—1815.[54]This branch of trade increases most rapidly.—1815.[55]Vide Appendix for a further account of this wax.[56]Vide Appendix for a further account of this plant.[57]In the year 1813, I was one evening in company, when I heard a gentleman request one of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present, if any of them had ever left a horse upon his plantation. I turned round and recognised the colonel of Cunhàû. The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards.[58]In the year 1812, I met Feliciano and one of the others, who was his brother-in-law, in one of the streets of Recife. They recollected me, and I was stopped by both of them getting hold of my coat on each side. They asked me if I was going again to travel, for if I was, they said that they were unemployed, and would go with me. Their attack had so much the appearance of being more in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that one or two of my acquaintance who chanced to pass at the time, stopped and enquired what was the matter, supposing that I had got into some scrape. These fellows literally held me fast, until I had answered all their questions. Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavourable character which I have given of the Indians; but unfortunately, individual instances prove very little.[59]I had imagined that he did not intend to return again into my service; but on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him at the house of one of my friends, employed as a household servant, and I heard that he had come down to Recife two days after I had left the place, for the purpose of remaining with me; but as I was gone, he had entered into the service in which I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all the bad qualities of the Indians; and if I was again to travel in that country, I should use every endeavour to have him in company. He belonged to Alhandra.[60]The information which is contained in this note I had from Captain Juan Roman Trivino, of the Spanish ship St. Joze, of 300 tons burthen. He received orders to proceed from Rio de Janeiro to Maranham, for the purpose of loading cotton, in the commencement of the year 1815. He arrived off the settlement of Searà, and sent on shore for a pilot to take him to St. Luiz; he was informed that none resided at Searà, but that he would find one at Jeriquaqùara, a high hill between Searà and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place, he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came on board, and offered to pilot him to St. Luiz. This was agreed to, and they proceeded; but from mistaking the two points of land in the manner mentioned above, the Indian took the vessel into the bay of St. Joze, on the 15th March. They kept the lead going, even before they discovered the error into which they had been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound to St. Luiz. The ship was brought to an anchor off the village of St. Joze, which is situated upon the N.E. point of the island of Maranham, in eleven fathoms water. Whilst they continued in the mid-channel of the bay, they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of water regularly decreases from the centre of the bay towards the land on each side; but it contains no insulated sand banks. The ship was at anchor off the village of St. Joze two days; they then proceeded through the channel, which is inclosed on either side by mangroves, and is so narrow in some parts that the yards at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair, and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five to two and a half fathoms; the bottom was of mud. About halfway through the channel, the tide from the bay of St. Joze and that from the bay of St. Marcos meet. This takes place nearly but not quite opposite to the mouth of the river Itapicuru. They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground at St. Joze to the island of Taua, which is situated near to the S. W. corner of the island of Maranham. Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the captain sent to St. Luiz for another pilot, as the man who had brought them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of the navigation. The island of Taua is rocky, and uninhabited, and is covered with palm trees. The village of St. Joze appeared to Captain Trivino to be of considerable size, but, with the exception of two or three, the houses were built of slight timber and of the leaves of different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen. He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there. Captain Trivino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicuru is at its mouth 120 yards wide, and that its depth is one fathom and a half.[61]Joam IV. sent over one Bartholomew Barreiros de Ataide with three miners, one a Venetian and the other two French, to search for gold and silver. After two years’ search up the Amazons they returned to Maranham, and offered to supply the people with iron at acruzado, about 2s. 4d.,per quintal, 128 lbs. weight, if the state would engage to take all that they should produce at that price. The people were afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was so rich in this ore that foreign cosmographers called it theilha do ferroin their maps, and all who came there with any knowledge of the subject said that it was ore of the best quality. A thing of great importance to Portugal, which bought all its iron, and yet this discovery was neglected.—From a Memoir of Manoel Guedes Aranha, Procurador from Maranham, 1685, in the 6th Vol. Pinheiro Collection of MSS. in the possession of Mr. Southey.A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the captaincy of St. Paulo, called “The Royal Fabric of S. Joam de Ypanema.” I obtained a knowledge of the fact from two letters in Nos. 45 and 56 of theInvestigador Portuguez, a periodical publication published in London. I am sorry to say, that the two letters to which I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the directors of the Fabric.[62]I have just in time received the following statement of the exportation of cotton from Maranham, from the year 1809 to 1815:Vessels.Bags.1809.To Great Britain in5155,835——To other parts2921,0061810.To Great Britain3740,684——To other parts1911,7931811.To Great Britain3648,705——To other parts196,0531812.To Great Britain2935,767——To other parts294,8031813.To Great Britain3550,072——To other parts2710,1011814.To Great Britain2231,205——To other parts3414,4361815.To Great Britain3228,539——To other parts4922,216[63]A person of the name of Belfort first planted rice at Maranham, and some of his descendants now reside there in opulence.[64]“There were five sugar works or engines, as they are called, at Itapicuru, which compounded for 5000 arrobas of their produce. On the island there were six engines in full employ, 1641.”—History of Brazil, Vol.II, p. 9.[65]He has been removed, was ordered to Lisbon, and ultimately, on his return to Rio de Janeiro, was refused admittance, for a short time, to the Prince Regent.[66]It is not perhaps generally known, that there are published in London three or four Portugueze periodical works. One of them is prohibited in Brazil, and I have heard it said, that all of them are so situated; but they are principally intended for Brazilian readers, and they find their way all over the country, notwithstanding the prohibition. I have seen them in the hands of civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers, and have heard them publicly spoken of by them. It is said that the Regent reads them, and is occasionally pleased with their invectives against some of the men in power.[67]About twelve months afterwards, I had an opportunity of being personally known to this man, and found him to be very superior to any individual of his or any other order of friars with whom I have been acquainted.[68]A British consul has since been appointed to Maranham.[69]Anouvidorhas been appointed to Aldeas Altas, and Piauhi has been raised to the rank of an independent provincial government. These are improvements which shew that regular government is gaining ground.[70]Before I came away in 1815, a considerable portion of the sand (which was covered by the tide at high water) between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, had been raised, and houses had been built upon it. The principal street of St. Antonio has been paved. The bridge of Boa Vista has been rebuilt of timber; and that between St. Antonio and Recife was about to undergo considerable repair. The hospitals, likewise, were to be improved; and as I have heard since my arrival in England, of the appointment of a most worthy man to the direction of one of them, I trust that this intention has been acted upon.[71]Vide Appendix.[72]Bolingbroke says, that instances are frequent of some of the European swine escaping into the woods, where they live wild; and he adds, that their increase has been immense. In another place he speaks of a species of this animal, which is peculiar to tropical America, and is called the warree which he says is about the size of an European hog, and much like it in shape. Theporco do matois not thesus tajassu, which is, I imagine, what Bolingbroke calls the picaree hog.—Voyage to the Demerary, &c. by Henry Bolingbroke, in Phillips’ Collection of Modern Voyages, vol. x. p. 57 and 129.The tajaçu is to be met with at Maranham, but is not known at Pernambuco.[73]Directions were given by thecapitam-mor, that a reservoir for rain water should be formed; and these have been carried into effect. 1815.[74]The Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday are properly the days of theintrudo, but the sport is, as in the case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time. Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium is preserved, and every thing is taken up heedlessly and thrown about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty, whether it may do mischief or is harmless.[75]The account which Labat gives ofl’arbre à Savonettesdoes not agree in all points with mine; the difference may arise from various circumstances to which some clew might have been discovered, if attention had been paid to the subject upon the spot. He says that the leaves are three inches in length, and “cet arbre est un de plus gros, des plus grands et des meilleurs qui croissent aux isles.”—Nouveau Voyage, &c.Tom. vii. p. 383. Du Tertre says, that it growsen abondance le long de la mer; dans les lieux les plus secs et les plus arides.—Histoire des Antilles, &c.Tom. ii. p. 165. I have only heard of the Saboeiro at some distance from the coast.[76]Limoeiro was raised to a township by an Alvará issued from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th July, 1811; but this was not then known. It has now a mayor, municipality, andcapitam-mor.[77]This place was erected a township by the same Alvará, which was issued respecting Limoeiro; and by the same, the villages of Cape St. Augustin and of St. Antam were likewise raised to the rank of towns; a sure sign is this of the increase of population.[78]This village is as much or more generally known by the name of Lagoa d’Anta, as by that of Nazareth; but the latter is the name which it bears in law. The former name, which means the Lake of the Anta, seems to denote that that animal was known in this part of the country; but in the present day, I could not meet with any of the peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify.[79]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.[80]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.[81]History of Brazil, Vol. ii. p. 237.[82]“Senhora nam, he o Diabo.”[83]“Que diz, meu amo?”[84]“Ave-Maria, Nosso Senhor nos livre.”[85]These practices were, or rather are, at present, carried on in one part of the country with which I am well acquainted. The persons who commit the crimes are white men and of high birth. Among them was a priest. The magistrate of the district in question was applied to by a man who had lost a cow, mentioning that he more than suspected where she was, and at the same time naming the place. Atropa, a troop or party, ofordenençasoldiers was collected, and these men were dispatched to search the house, which had been pointed out, under the command of a corporal of well-known courage. They arrived there and knocked; the door was opened by the owner, who was the priest connected with the gang; he said that he could not allow his house to be entered without an order from the ecclesiastical court. This answer was conveyed to the magistrate who had signed the order, the soldiers remaining round about the house. A second order arrived, and the bearer brought with him a couple of hatchets, thus expressively pointing out to the corporal what he was to do. Forthwith preparations were made for breaking open the door, when the priest said, that he would allow the corporal to enter alone; the man fearlessly went in, but as soon as the door was again closed the priest seized upon him, and some of his negroes who were in another apartment sprang forwards to assist their master; but the corporal disengaged himself, and standing upon the defensive called to his men, who soon broke into the house. Search was made, and the carcase and hide of the cow were found, and were with the negroes taken publicly to the nearest town. The mark of the red hot iron upon the haunch had been burnt out of the hide, that discovery might be rendered less easy. The priest was punished by suspension from saying mass for a few months. I was subsequently acquainted with him; he was received by many persons as if nothing had been amiss; but he was not received as heretofore, for the individuals of his own profession would not, generally speaking, associate with him. The circumstance had not however so completely prevented his re-entrance into decent society, as such a crime would have done in many others countries, or so much as would have occurred at Pernambuco, if he had been a layman.[86]A free negro, with whom I had been acquainted whilst I resided at this place, and who came to see me when I removed to Itamaraca, told me, with much horror pictured in his countenance, of the fate of a man who had worked for me. He said that this person occasionally became alobos homem, a wolf man. I asked him to explain, when he said that the man was at times transformed into an animal of the size of a calf, with the figure of a dog; that he left his home at midnight in this metamorphosed state, and ran about with the violence of a mad dog, and that he attacked any one whom he might chance to meet. The black man was perfectly persuaded of the correctness of his own statement, when he related having, with his brother-in-law and his sister, met this uncommon beast, near to their own cottages. I suppose it was some large dog which prowled about to satisfy his hunger in the neighbourhood of these habitations; but no, the man was persuaded that it was poor Miguel.[87]On Saturdays only, throughout the country, are cattle slaughtered; and thus weekly many persons of each neighbourhood assemble, as much to converse and hear the news as to purchase their portion of meat. On one of these occasions, a young man of colour was stooping to arrange upon the end of his walking stick the meat which he had bought, at the moment that a person of considerable power was riding up. The man of importance, when he came near to the young mulatto, struck him with a long cane with which he rode, saying “why don’t you take off your hat when a white man appears?” The blow was felt severely, and still more severely answered. The man of colour drew his knife, and quickly turning round, ran it hilt deep into the groin of him by whom he had been insulted; and then with the bloody knife in his hand, he ran off, vowing destruction upon any one who touched him. The rich man had only time before he died, to direct that the murderer should not be pursued, owning that his own impetuous tyranny had deservedly produced this catastrophe. The young man returned in a few weeks to his former home, and was not molested by the relatives of him whom he had murdered, nor did the law take cognizance of the deed.[88]The following anecdote exemplifies the feudal state of the planters a few years ago. It was related to me by a gentleman upon whose veracity I have every reason to rely. Some fifteen years ago, the governor of Pernambuco sent for a sergeant of the only regiment of the line which existed at that time, whose courage was well known and much dreaded. He received orders from the governor to proceed with all expedition possible to the sugar-plantation of Monjope, distant from Recife four leagues, for the purpose of taking the owner of that place into custody; or if he found that his apprehension alive was impracticable, he was then to bring his head to the governor. The sergeant was desired to pick out as many soldiers as he thought fit to accompany him; but he said that he should go alone, and consequently the following morning he set forth. On his arrival at Monjope, he was received by the owner of the plantation, who was a colonel of militia, or acapitam-mor. Being seated, he quietly made his errand known, shewing to the great man the order for his apprehension, and mentioning the additional instructions in case of disobedience. The colonel left the room, but soon returned with a bag containing about the value of 100l.in gold coins, and presenting this to the sergeant, told him to return and tell the governor that he would visit him as soon as possible, and explain to him the circumstances which had given rise to this mission. The sergeant took the money, and set out on his return; and by the way bought a sheep, killed it, and then cutting off its head, put this into a bag. On arriving at the palace, he placed his bloody burthen upon the ground, and pointing to it, said to the governor, “I have executed your commands; he would not come, and therefore I have brought his head.” The governor, all amazement, answered, “and have you really killed the colonel of Monjope?” The sergeant replied, “I have only acted according to the orders which I received.” The following morning, what was the astonishment of the governor, to hear that the colonel of Monjope was in waiting, and wished to see him. He gave him an audience, matters were explained, and they parted good friends. The sergeant was sent for after the departure of the colonel, and on being questioned, told the whole story, and shewed the bag of money. The governor was displeased, but at the same time ashamed of the rash orders which he had given. The sergeant was however too useful a man to be in disgrace.[89]Slaves are permitted to purchase their own freedom, on tendering to the master the sum of money which he originally gave for them. But I shall presently speak more at large of this law and of slavery, as it exists in Brazil.[90]Vide Appendix for a farther account of the coco-tree.[91]An old Portugueze, whose faith in the intercession of saints could not be very strong, being asked for alms to assist in the decoration of an image, refused to give any thing, and added, “The saints are in a much better situation than I am; they don’t want any assistance from me.”[92]I insert the following passage from No. 32d. of Dr. Thomson’s Annals of Philosophy, p. 138. It is given for the purpose of acquainting the supporters of our Lady of the O, that salt oozes from walls in an heretical, as well as in a Catholic country:“The formation of nitre upon calcareous stones in certain situations has been long known, and advantage has been taken of it to procure that important salt in great quantities; though no satisfactory theory of the formation of the salt itself has yet been offered to the public. The present paper contains a set of observations on the appearance of an efflorescence of salt-petre on the walls of the Ashmole laboratory at Oxford, a large ground room, sunk below the area of the street. The walls are built of Oxford lime-stone, a granular floetz lime-stone, containing many fragments of shells, of vegetable bodies, and composed of 96 carbonate of lime, and 4 of ochrey sand. The salt formed was nearly pure, though it contained traces of lime and of sulphuric and muriatic acids. What was formed in winter contained most lime. The formation of this salt was most rapid in frosty weather; it formed slowly, and the quantity even diminished in moist weather after it had been deposited. Exclusion from the air did not preclude the deposition of the salt, though it diminished it considerably.” p. 70.—The paper, of which the above is an analysis, is by John Kidd, M.D. professor of chemistry in Oxford.[93]Some time ago a wooden figure was brought up out of the sea in a fisherman’s net; it was deposited in a place of safety, and was on inspection, by some person who was judged competent to decide upon the subject, declared to be an image of St. Luke; it was removed to a church, and has taken its place as a representative of that saint. Now, I have heard it whispered, that this said St. Luke is no more than the figure-head of some unfortunate vessel which had been cast away, or that the figure had been broken off by a violent wave.[94]I am not certain of the situation of the Monte das Tabocas, where one of the chief battles was fought between the Portugueze and the Dutch in 1645.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 108. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family; but as I was acquainted with him and several other persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would have been mentioned, if this had been the place.[95]At the distance of twenty leagues or more from Recife, there resided formerly the Padre Pedro, upon the sugar plantation of Agua Azul, or the blue water. He had obtained a grant from the Crown, of the surrounding lands, of one square league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a high hill, the summit of which was only to be reached by a serpentine road which he had made with great labour. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill, and the field around the eminence was inclosed by a deep and broad ditch, and a thick hedge on the outside. The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in a very wild state; the woods were extensive, and almost impenetrable. The disposition of the priest was as wild as the country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from the regiments of the line, and all persons who had committed crimes in supporting the insulted honour of their families, in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion, were received by him; but he did not afford protection to the thief. The fellows who were harboured by him inhabited the woods around the field, and some of them had erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus forming a line of communication; so that with a whistle or a conch, soon were assembled at his door forty or fifty men, who were prepared to perform any service of whatever description he might name; because they well knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his aid would be given in the law’s support. To injure the priest or any of his satellites, was followed by destruction to the offending person. He was, however, in the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings; for although the government might not be able to destroy his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power. The priest was once sent for by a late governor of the province; he obeyed, and brought with him a considerable number of his determined followers; he dismounted, and ascended the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people, who remained below, that no person should be permitted to enter after him. The governor complained to him of his avowed practice of harbouring deserters; to which the priest replied, that he thought his Excellency was aware of the inutility of speaking to him upon that subject; and having said this he immediately left the room, mounted his horse, and proceeded homewards without molestation.Another anecdote of this strange man was communicated to me by a person who had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs, arrived at Agua Azul, and served a writ for debt upon him; the priest received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards he ordered some of his people to take these two men and harness them in the mill (which was then at work) in the places of two of the horses, (eight of these are employed at the same time). He then ordered that the works should go on, and that a negro boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist in its movement; there they remained for some minutes, until half dead with fatigue and fear, he turned them loose, and told them to relate to their employer the manner in which they had been treated, threatening to do the same to him, if he could obtain possession of his person. The priest had a considerable number of blood hounds, which were usually unchained, and were lying about the house; thus rendering dangerous an approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained, for a call from their master was sufficient to make them lie still, and allow of the advance of a stranger. This person died only a few years ago; but as I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters in Brazil is fast going by.[96]“Zacharias nam he ninguem.”[97]Labat, in speaking of the Indians of Guyana, says, “Leurs plus grandes richesses consistent dans les colliers de pierres vertes qui leur viennent de la riviére des Amazones. C’est un limon qu’on peche dans le fond de quelques endroits de ce grand fleuve.” He continues his description of them, and then says, “ces pierres sont spécifiques pour guêrir l’épilepsie ou le mal caduc, ou du moins pour en ôter et suspendre tous les accidens tout autant de tems qu’on les porte sur soi, et qu’elles touchent la peau.”—Voyage du Chevalier des Marchais en Guinée, isles voisines et a Cayenne, tom. iv. p. 65 and 66.The lower orders in Brazil make use of an iron ring round the wrist for this purpose.I was informed that theContas Verdescame from Africa, but some may have found their way from the Orellana, and been put into requisition by theMandingueiros.I refer the reader to the History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 607, for a farther account of the green stones of the Amazons.[98]A man of large property being much provoked at some outrage which had been committed by one of theseValentoens, (who was a white man,) had said at his own home, that when he met the man he would horsewhip him. This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they met accidentally in one of the narrow-paths in the neighbourhood. TheValentamwas well-armed with musket, sword, and knife; he requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him. The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore set spurs to his horse, but the road was without any bend for some distance; theValentamknelt down upon one knee, and fired with the effect which he wished for. He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the whole story of his meeting, at the first village through which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried, and hanged at Bahia, through the very great exertions of the brother of the person whom he had murdered. He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance from Jaguaribe, about fifteen years ago.[99]Labat speaks of a tree, of which the fruit is a perfect cure for the bite of the most dangerous snakes. He says that it comes from the isthmus of Darien; that the buccaniers were informed of its virtue by the Indians who accompanied them in their expeditions across the isthmus. He does not give the name of the tree; but says “sans nous embarasser du nom de l’arbre nous nous contentons d’appeller son fruit noix de serpent.” In his time there were three of these trees at Martinique, which were of the size of apricot trees in France. He says that he witnessed the success of the fruit. The account of the plant and its virtues is too long to be inserted here. It is to be found in theNouveau Voyage aux isles de l’Amerique, tom. iii. p. 234 to 238.In the same work, I find the following manner of cure from the bite of a snake, which will not however be very generally adopted. “Ceux qui ont assez de courage ou de charité pour s’exposer a faire cette cure se gargarisent bien la bouche avec de l’eau-de-vie; et après avoir scarifié la place, ils la succent de toute leur force, ils rejettent de tems en tems ce qu’ils ont dans la bouche, et se la nettoyent et gargarisent à chaque fois, observant de presser fortement avec les deux mains les environs de la partie blessée. On a vú de trés bons effets de cette cure, mais elle est trés-dangereuse pour celui qui la fait; car s’il a la moindre ecorchûre dans la bouche, ou qu’il avale tant soit peu de ce qu’il retire, il peut s’attendre à mourir en peu de momens, sans que toute la medecine le puisse sauver.” tom. i. p. 167.[100]In the year 1630, the island contained three and twenty sugar works.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.[101]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 36.[102]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.[103]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 489.[104]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 540.[105]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 143.[106]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 176.[107]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.[108]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 241.[109]“Porque o seu coracam assim manda.”[110]One of these Indians was selling crabs at Pasmado, when a purchaser began to pick out those which he preferred; but the Indian stopped him, saying, “Don’t begin to pick my crabs, for I belong to Amparo.” Thus even the crabs which were caught by the dependants of this great man were to be respected.[111]The dependants do not always shew the respect which, seemingly, they ought to render to their patron. One of the Indians of Amparo (not he of the crabs) met his master, the owner of the place, in the field near to the dwelling-house. The Indian took off his own hat to speak to his master, but the same was not done by his superior; however the fellow quickly performed this for him, saying “When you speak to people take off your hat.”—“Quando se falla a gente tira se o chapeo.” The master took this quietly and when the conversation ended, his hat was returned.[112]Vide Appendix.[113]I do not know whether I might not almost say of Brazil: Regarding Itamaraca, there exists the following adage, “What is it that persecutes thee island?” The answer is “The being an island, the ants and Guedes.” “Que te persegue ilha? Ilha, formiga, Guedes.” Or in other words, the inconvenience occasioned by being obliged to cross the channel from the main land; the ants, which sufficiently explain for themselves; and Guedes;—these were a family of unquiet spirits who resided in the island, and kept it in perpetual turbulence from their quarrels. The remains still exist; but now they are good and peaceable subjects.[114]“Agora Senhor Rei, vai te embora.”[115]In 1646, after the Portugueze had taken possession of the guard-ship at Os Marcos, they proceeded to that which was stationed at Itapisuma or Tapissuma, and this was burnt by the Dutch.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.[116]A man of colour with whom I was acquainted possessed several tame oxen, some of which with a cart he used to hire to the planters by the day, and one or other of his sons attended to drive them. Two of these animals were stolen, and a suspicion falling upon a man of reputed respectability in the country, who had rented a sugar plantation not far distant, one of the sons of the owner of the oxen determined to try to ascertain the fact. He dressed himself in leather, as a disguise, and rode to the dwelling of the person in question, where he arrived at dusk. The master of the house was not at home, but he spoke to the housekeeper, saying, that he had just arrived from the Sertam with cattle on sale, which would reach the neighbourhood on the following morning; he requested to know if she thought her master would purchase his drove. She answered in the affirmative, but said that he had better stay all night, for the purpose of seeing the intended purchaser, who would arrive on the next day. The false Sertanejo told her not to be uneasy about his accommodation, as he would sleep in the mill, to which he rode, and there he remained very quietly during the early part of the night. When all was still he began to search for the hides or horns of his oxen. The former would be recognised by the private mark, which was made (as is usual) with a red-hot iron upon the right haunch, and the latter he would know from the peculiar bore of their tips (by which they are in part harnessed to the cart) for he had bored them himself, and was in the constant habit of driving these oxen; besides, tame oxen are so seldom killed, that if he found any horns which were bored, he might presume that they were those of his beasts. He had given up his search, and almost all hope of finding what he sought, when, as he lay in his hammock, he happened to cast his eyes upwards, and saw two fresh out-stretched hides hanging to the higher wood-work of the mill. He scrambled up the timbers with a lighted piece of wood in one hand; and moving this to and fro near to the hides, that it might give a better light, he discovered that they bore his father’s mark. He lost no time in cutting from both of them the pieces which contained the mark, and carefully preserving these he mounted his horse about two o’clock in the morning and rode home. He kept the bits of leather as trophies, and shewed them in proof of his former assertions respecting the person who had stolen the oxen, but neither did he obtain, nor did he expect to obtain any redress. These transactions occurred in 1811, and within five leagues of Recife.
[1]I have made use of this spelling, from the word cocoa being applied in the English language indiscriminately to that tree and to the cacao; and as we most probably derived the word from the Portuguese language, it may perhaps not be considered improper to distinguish the two plants in this manner.[2]A house answering both these purposes has lately been established at Recife by an Irishman and his wife. 1815.[3]It is perhaps not generally known, that the bags of cotton are compressed, by means of machinery, into a small compass, and fastened round with ropes, that the ships which convey them may contain a greater number.[4]I did not discover any vestiges of the fort which stood here at the time of the Dutch war.[5]I shall use this word exclusively, when speaking of Europeans of this nation; and the word Brazilian, when speaking of white persons born in Brazil.[6]This is the name by which the fort is usually distinguished, but I rather think that it is not its proper appellation.[7]I am not quite certain whether it is the third or fourth.[8]I sailed from Pernambuco in the very last convoy of 1815, previous to the peace with the United States, which consisted of twenty-eight vessels, viz. two ships of war, two prizes to them, and twenty-four merchant vessels, fourteen of which were from Pernambuco, and the remaining ten from Rio de Janeiro and Bahia.[9]An edict has lately been issued at Rio de Janeiro by the Regent, declaring himself the Prince Regent of the United Kingdoms of Portugal, Brazil, and the Two Algarves. 1816.[10]I saw, in the year 1814, a very fine root of wheat that had been raised in the Campina Grande of the province of Paraiba, about thirty leagues to the northward of Recife.[11]This has lately been removed to Recife, owing to a report of some plan of revolt amongst the negroes, which has since proved to be without foundation. 1815.[12]A Portugueze gentleman once observed to me, that in France and other countries many clever men had written and spoken strongly, and for a considerable length of time against this way of life, and that they at last even effected their purpose with much difficulty; but, he added, in Pernambuco such is the conduct of the friars, that no writing and no speaking is necessary to bring them into disrepute.[13]“Irmam, não tenha vergonha.”[14]In speaking of the Priesthood, it must be always recollected, that the Secular and Regular Clergy are two totally different bodies of men, and as distinct in their utility, their knowledge, and their manners, as they are in their situation in life.[15]I think that the Caza Forte and the Cazas de Dona Anna Paes, of which an account is given in the History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 124, distinguish the same place under different names.[16]When the Englishmen, who first established themselves at Recife, had finished the stock of tea which they had brought with them, they enquired where more could be purchased, and were directed to an apothecary’s shop. They went, and asked simply for tea, when the man wished to know what kind of tea they meant; he at last understood them, and said, “O, you want East-Indian tea,” “Cha da India,”—thus considering it as he would any other drug. But at the time of which I am now speaking, great quantities are consumed.[17]I once heard, that a person who had been in England, and had returned to Pernambuco, observed, that the two things which surprised him the most in that country, were, that the people did not die, and that the children spoke English. He was asked his reason for supposing that his first wonder was correct, to which he answered, that he never had seen the Sacrament taken to the sick.[18]AJuiz Conservador, Judge Conservator, of the British nation has been appointed for Pernambuco, but at the period of my departure from Recife, he was not arrived. Very soon after the commencement of a direct commercial intercourse with Great Britain, a vice-consul was appointed for Pernambuco, by the consul-general at Rio de Janeiro; this person was superseded by a consul sent out direct from England, who is subject to the consul-general of Brazil, but the place is disposed of by the government at home.[19]When Brazil was in its infancy, the clergy could not subsist upon their tythes, and therefore petitioned the government of Portugal to pay them a certain stipend, and receive the tenths for its own account; this was accepted, but now that the tenths have increased in value twenty-fold, the government still pays to the vicars the same stipends. The clergy of the present day, bitterly complain of the agreement made by those to whom they have succeeded.[20]A great confusion exists in Brazil respecting measures. Every captaincy has its own, agreeing neither with those of its neighbours, nor with the measures of Portugal, though the same names are used invariably: thus acanadaand analqueirein Pernambuco represent a much greater quantity than the same denominations in Portugal, and less than in some of the other provinces of Brazil.[21]A patent has been obtained, and a manufactory established upon a large scale for making cordage from the outward rind of the coco-nut. Ropes of this description are, I believe, much used in the East Indies.[22]An old woman applied at the gates of a convent, late one evening, and told the porter, an old friar, who was quite blind, that she wished one of the brothers to go with her, for the purpose of confessing a sick person. The old man, with perfect unconcern, gave her to understand, that they were all out, adding, “but if you will go to the garden gate, and wait there, some of them will soon be creeping in.”[23]The younger members of the Franciscan order enjoy very much the duty of going out to beg, as opportunities offer of amusing themselves. A guardian was chosen at Paraiba some years ago, who examined the chest in which the money belonging to the community was kept, and on finding a considerable sum in it, gave orders that no one should go out to beg. He was a conscientious man, and said, that as they had already enough, the people must not be importuned for more, until what they possessed was finished. He kept the whole community within the walls of the convent for the term of two or three years, for which each guardian is appointed. On another occasion, the friars of a Franciscan convent chose for their guardian a young man, whose life had been very irregularly spent in any thing rather than the duties of his calling, under the idea, that during the continuance of his guardianship, they would lead a merry life,—that very little attention would be paid to the rules and regulations of the Order; but they were mistaken, he changed his habits as soon as he found himself at their head; the gates were rigidly closed at the proper hour, and according to the old and vulgar proverb, of “Set a thief,” &c. the duties of the convent were performed with much greater austerity than before.[24]An anecdote was related to me of one of these couples, which occurred some years ago, under a former Governor. A solitary passenger, between Olinda and Recife, witnessed part of the following scene, and the remainder was described by one of the actors in it. A couple of criminals, of which one was a white man, and the other a negro, accompanied by their guard, were walking over the sands, to reach a ford, and cross the river at its narrowest part. Three horsemen, one of whom led a fourth horse, saddled and bridled, rode up, and one of them knocked the soldier down, whilst the white man of the chained couple urged his companion to go with him to the led horse, and mount up behind him: this the black man refused to do, when one of the horsemen, who seemed to direct the others, called out, “Cut the fellow’s leg off.” The criminals are secured to each other by the ankle. The negro now agreed, and both mounted the horse, and the whole party galloped away, first binding the soldier hand and foot. They passed through Olinda at full speed, and when they had arrived at some distance, a large file was made use of, and the negro was set down with all the chains and bolts. The party then proceeded, and were never afterwards heard of. It was imagined, that the man who made his escape in this manner, was the relation of a rich person in the interior, who had either committed some crime, or had been thus unjustly punished.[25]Lately, a cadet has come forwards, and has taken the direction of these matters; he has apprehended several persons of infamous character, but of determined courage; he has done much good, risking his life under circumstances of great danger, and even to extreme rashness has he been carried by his zeal. This young man well deserves promotion. That thus the police should fall into the hands of inferior officers, shows the irregular footing upon which it stands.—1814.[26]The arrival of another colonel to the regiment of Recife, and the increase of activity in the officers, has altered its appearance much for the better. The regiment of Olinda or of artillery, has been also much improved by the attention of its colonel, and the entrance into it of several well-educated Brazilian officers of the first families.[27]The lower part of the town is the site of the siege, which, in its infancy, the settlement sustained against the savages, as is “related by Hans Stade, the first traveller who wrote any account of Brazil.”—History of Brazil, Vol. I. p. 46.[28]I had frequent opportunities afterwards of resting at this inn; on one of these, I happened to ask for salt, which is not usually placed upon the table; the master of the house, in the customary familiar manner of the country, expressed his surprise, at the additional quantity of salt which I wished for, but it was brought to me, and nothing further was said. This occurred in the morning, soon after our arrival at the place; at dinner, to our dismay, the soup and almost all the other dishes were so plentifully supplied with the unfortunate ingredient, as to be scarcely eatable. We complained of this to the master, who answered, “Why, I thought you liked salt.” “Cuidei que eram amigos de sal.”[29]Is this word abbreviated fromDesertam, used as an augmentative (according to the Portugueze custom) forDeserto?[30]Matutos, woodmen, inhabitants of themato.[31]A person with whom I was afterwards acquainted, has since cleared one of these islands, and has formed some salt-works upon it.[32]The wordSertamis used rather indefinitely, as it does not only mean the interior of the country, but likewise a great part of the coast, of which the population is yet scanty, receives this general name. Thus, the whole of the country between Rio Grande and Pernaiba is called Sertam. Pernaiba is a small province, situated between Seara and Maranham.[33]The rafts employed upon small rivers are of a construction similar to those already described on a former occasion, save that still less workmanship is bestowed upon them.[34]History of Brazil, Vol. II. p. 104 and 155.[35]The castor tree is known in Brazil under the same name; indeed, there is much similarity between the seed of this plant, from which the oil is extracted, and the larger kind of tick.[36]Between two and three years after this journey, I heard again of my friend the Major. I became acquainted with a man who resided at the foot of the Serra do Teixeira, which is beyond the estates of the major’s father. The old colonel was killed by a bull before his own door. The animal had been driven into a small inclosure, and became mad from feeling himself confined. It was necessary to bring him to the ground, which is done in a peculiar manner, by running a short iron prong into a certain part of the thigh. The herdsmen were afraid, and wished to let the beast have time to cool and become less violent; the old man, who was between seventy and eighty years of age, told them, that if they were afraid, he would attack him, and immediately entered the inclosure; but before he could prepare to receive the bull, and was still leaning against the palings, the animal ran at him, and fixed his horns through the old man’s body, with sufficient force to run them into the palings, and in such a manner that before he could extricate himself, one of the herdsmen ran a long knife into his head between the horns, and brought him to the ground; but the old man lost his life.[37]“Falla a lingua de negro.”[38]Vide Appendix.[39]“Deixa estar meu amo.”[40]I heard in the beginning of the year 1815, that the bar had been completely choaked up during a violent gale of wind from the sea, whilst two coasters were in the river, taking in cargoes for Pernambuco.[41]This person has since been removed to a province of more importance.[42]“Mofino como caboclo.”[43]I heard, from good authority, that there are two instances of Indians having been ordained as secular priests, and that both these individuals died from excessive drinking.[44]Caboclo he so para hoje.[45]Another member of this family was also to be apprehended, but the governor could not fix upon any means by which the arrest was to be accomplished. A man of well-known intrepidity and of some power was sent for by the governor, to consult with him upon the subject. This person offered to go alone, and acquaint the Feitoza with the orders that had been issued against him, and in fact to try to take him into custody. He set off, but Feitoza was apprized of his coming and of his errand, and, immediately leaving his estate, proceeded to Bahia, where he embarked for Lisbon, arriving in due time at that place. The person who set off to arrest him followed him from place to place, arrived at Bahia, and embarked for and landed at Lisbon. He enquired for Feitoza, heard that he had spoken to the secretary of state, and had again embarked on his return homewards, but that the ship was delayed by contrary winds.Helikewise went to the secretary, and shewed the orders which he had received for the arrest of Feitoza, making known the particular crimes which had made his apprehension requisite. Feitoza was taken into custody and put into the Limoeiro prison, where his persecutor or prosecutor went to visit him, saying as he approached,—“Well, did not I say so,”—“Entam eu que disse,” alluding to his determination of apprehending him. He returned to Brazil and gave an account of his mission to the governor, from whom he had received his orders. This man was well known in the province of Searà, and the truth of the story is vouched for by many respectable persons with whom I conversed. This Feitoza has not been heard of.[46]Arruda says it is white, vide Appendix, therefore some other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw.[47]Cabeça de Vaca is particularly mentioned.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 109.[48]There is a print in Barlæus which represents the Portugueze crossing the river St. Francisco upon rafts or logs of timber; these must, I think, have been similar to those which are at present used in the Sertam.[49]A mulatto woman once said to me, “The children of mulattos are like whelps, they are of all colours.” “Filho de mulatto, he como filho de cachorro, hum sahe branco, outro pardo e outro negro.”[50]Dr. Manoel Arruda da Camara says, that before the dreadful drought of 1793, it was considered to be one of the duties of the herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that which was already half tamed, might not be induced to mix with it, and by this means become wild; and he adds, that this is still the case in the Sertoens of Piauhi. He published his pamphlets in 1810.[51]When I resided at Jaguaribe, and upon the island of Itamaraca, in the years 1813 and 1814, I took some pains in this matter; but the meat was not good, and though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavour than that of the same species of animal in England, still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more unequal to the mutton of England, than is the case respecting the beef of the two countries.[52]Lieutenant-Colonel Joam da Silva Feijò, in a pamphlet published at Rio de Janeiro in 1811, on the sheep of the province of Searà, says, “That the sheep of that part of the country bear wool which has all the marks of being of a superior quality; that it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of a good length, and strong.” He again says, “That the governor,” the same of whom I have spoken, “sent a small quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed.” I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Searà, and his opinion must of course be taken in preference to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the same province; however, I bought several as food, and their skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have above described. When I resided at Jaguaribe and Itamaraca, I possessed a considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak positively.[53]Vaccination is finding its way among them in spite of prejudice.—1815.[54]This branch of trade increases most rapidly.—1815.[55]Vide Appendix for a further account of this wax.[56]Vide Appendix for a further account of this plant.[57]In the year 1813, I was one evening in company, when I heard a gentleman request one of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present, if any of them had ever left a horse upon his plantation. I turned round and recognised the colonel of Cunhàû. The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards.[58]In the year 1812, I met Feliciano and one of the others, who was his brother-in-law, in one of the streets of Recife. They recollected me, and I was stopped by both of them getting hold of my coat on each side. They asked me if I was going again to travel, for if I was, they said that they were unemployed, and would go with me. Their attack had so much the appearance of being more in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that one or two of my acquaintance who chanced to pass at the time, stopped and enquired what was the matter, supposing that I had got into some scrape. These fellows literally held me fast, until I had answered all their questions. Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavourable character which I have given of the Indians; but unfortunately, individual instances prove very little.[59]I had imagined that he did not intend to return again into my service; but on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him at the house of one of my friends, employed as a household servant, and I heard that he had come down to Recife two days after I had left the place, for the purpose of remaining with me; but as I was gone, he had entered into the service in which I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all the bad qualities of the Indians; and if I was again to travel in that country, I should use every endeavour to have him in company. He belonged to Alhandra.[60]The information which is contained in this note I had from Captain Juan Roman Trivino, of the Spanish ship St. Joze, of 300 tons burthen. He received orders to proceed from Rio de Janeiro to Maranham, for the purpose of loading cotton, in the commencement of the year 1815. He arrived off the settlement of Searà, and sent on shore for a pilot to take him to St. Luiz; he was informed that none resided at Searà, but that he would find one at Jeriquaqùara, a high hill between Searà and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place, he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came on board, and offered to pilot him to St. Luiz. This was agreed to, and they proceeded; but from mistaking the two points of land in the manner mentioned above, the Indian took the vessel into the bay of St. Joze, on the 15th March. They kept the lead going, even before they discovered the error into which they had been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound to St. Luiz. The ship was brought to an anchor off the village of St. Joze, which is situated upon the N.E. point of the island of Maranham, in eleven fathoms water. Whilst they continued in the mid-channel of the bay, they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of water regularly decreases from the centre of the bay towards the land on each side; but it contains no insulated sand banks. The ship was at anchor off the village of St. Joze two days; they then proceeded through the channel, which is inclosed on either side by mangroves, and is so narrow in some parts that the yards at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair, and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five to two and a half fathoms; the bottom was of mud. About halfway through the channel, the tide from the bay of St. Joze and that from the bay of St. Marcos meet. This takes place nearly but not quite opposite to the mouth of the river Itapicuru. They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground at St. Joze to the island of Taua, which is situated near to the S. W. corner of the island of Maranham. Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the captain sent to St. Luiz for another pilot, as the man who had brought them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of the navigation. The island of Taua is rocky, and uninhabited, and is covered with palm trees. The village of St. Joze appeared to Captain Trivino to be of considerable size, but, with the exception of two or three, the houses were built of slight timber and of the leaves of different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen. He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there. Captain Trivino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicuru is at its mouth 120 yards wide, and that its depth is one fathom and a half.[61]Joam IV. sent over one Bartholomew Barreiros de Ataide with three miners, one a Venetian and the other two French, to search for gold and silver. After two years’ search up the Amazons they returned to Maranham, and offered to supply the people with iron at acruzado, about 2s. 4d.,per quintal, 128 lbs. weight, if the state would engage to take all that they should produce at that price. The people were afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was so rich in this ore that foreign cosmographers called it theilha do ferroin their maps, and all who came there with any knowledge of the subject said that it was ore of the best quality. A thing of great importance to Portugal, which bought all its iron, and yet this discovery was neglected.—From a Memoir of Manoel Guedes Aranha, Procurador from Maranham, 1685, in the 6th Vol. Pinheiro Collection of MSS. in the possession of Mr. Southey.A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the captaincy of St. Paulo, called “The Royal Fabric of S. Joam de Ypanema.” I obtained a knowledge of the fact from two letters in Nos. 45 and 56 of theInvestigador Portuguez, a periodical publication published in London. I am sorry to say, that the two letters to which I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the directors of the Fabric.[62]I have just in time received the following statement of the exportation of cotton from Maranham, from the year 1809 to 1815:Vessels.Bags.1809.To Great Britain in5155,835——To other parts2921,0061810.To Great Britain3740,684——To other parts1911,7931811.To Great Britain3648,705——To other parts196,0531812.To Great Britain2935,767——To other parts294,8031813.To Great Britain3550,072——To other parts2710,1011814.To Great Britain2231,205——To other parts3414,4361815.To Great Britain3228,539——To other parts4922,216[63]A person of the name of Belfort first planted rice at Maranham, and some of his descendants now reside there in opulence.[64]“There were five sugar works or engines, as they are called, at Itapicuru, which compounded for 5000 arrobas of their produce. On the island there were six engines in full employ, 1641.”—History of Brazil, Vol.II, p. 9.[65]He has been removed, was ordered to Lisbon, and ultimately, on his return to Rio de Janeiro, was refused admittance, for a short time, to the Prince Regent.[66]It is not perhaps generally known, that there are published in London three or four Portugueze periodical works. One of them is prohibited in Brazil, and I have heard it said, that all of them are so situated; but they are principally intended for Brazilian readers, and they find their way all over the country, notwithstanding the prohibition. I have seen them in the hands of civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers, and have heard them publicly spoken of by them. It is said that the Regent reads them, and is occasionally pleased with their invectives against some of the men in power.[67]About twelve months afterwards, I had an opportunity of being personally known to this man, and found him to be very superior to any individual of his or any other order of friars with whom I have been acquainted.[68]A British consul has since been appointed to Maranham.[69]Anouvidorhas been appointed to Aldeas Altas, and Piauhi has been raised to the rank of an independent provincial government. These are improvements which shew that regular government is gaining ground.[70]Before I came away in 1815, a considerable portion of the sand (which was covered by the tide at high water) between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, had been raised, and houses had been built upon it. The principal street of St. Antonio has been paved. The bridge of Boa Vista has been rebuilt of timber; and that between St. Antonio and Recife was about to undergo considerable repair. The hospitals, likewise, were to be improved; and as I have heard since my arrival in England, of the appointment of a most worthy man to the direction of one of them, I trust that this intention has been acted upon.[71]Vide Appendix.[72]Bolingbroke says, that instances are frequent of some of the European swine escaping into the woods, where they live wild; and he adds, that their increase has been immense. In another place he speaks of a species of this animal, which is peculiar to tropical America, and is called the warree which he says is about the size of an European hog, and much like it in shape. Theporco do matois not thesus tajassu, which is, I imagine, what Bolingbroke calls the picaree hog.—Voyage to the Demerary, &c. by Henry Bolingbroke, in Phillips’ Collection of Modern Voyages, vol. x. p. 57 and 129.The tajaçu is to be met with at Maranham, but is not known at Pernambuco.[73]Directions were given by thecapitam-mor, that a reservoir for rain water should be formed; and these have been carried into effect. 1815.[74]The Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday are properly the days of theintrudo, but the sport is, as in the case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time. Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium is preserved, and every thing is taken up heedlessly and thrown about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty, whether it may do mischief or is harmless.[75]The account which Labat gives ofl’arbre à Savonettesdoes not agree in all points with mine; the difference may arise from various circumstances to which some clew might have been discovered, if attention had been paid to the subject upon the spot. He says that the leaves are three inches in length, and “cet arbre est un de plus gros, des plus grands et des meilleurs qui croissent aux isles.”—Nouveau Voyage, &c.Tom. vii. p. 383. Du Tertre says, that it growsen abondance le long de la mer; dans les lieux les plus secs et les plus arides.—Histoire des Antilles, &c.Tom. ii. p. 165. I have only heard of the Saboeiro at some distance from the coast.[76]Limoeiro was raised to a township by an Alvará issued from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th July, 1811; but this was not then known. It has now a mayor, municipality, andcapitam-mor.[77]This place was erected a township by the same Alvará, which was issued respecting Limoeiro; and by the same, the villages of Cape St. Augustin and of St. Antam were likewise raised to the rank of towns; a sure sign is this of the increase of population.[78]This village is as much or more generally known by the name of Lagoa d’Anta, as by that of Nazareth; but the latter is the name which it bears in law. The former name, which means the Lake of the Anta, seems to denote that that animal was known in this part of the country; but in the present day, I could not meet with any of the peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify.[79]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.[80]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.[81]History of Brazil, Vol. ii. p. 237.[82]“Senhora nam, he o Diabo.”[83]“Que diz, meu amo?”[84]“Ave-Maria, Nosso Senhor nos livre.”[85]These practices were, or rather are, at present, carried on in one part of the country with which I am well acquainted. The persons who commit the crimes are white men and of high birth. Among them was a priest. The magistrate of the district in question was applied to by a man who had lost a cow, mentioning that he more than suspected where she was, and at the same time naming the place. Atropa, a troop or party, ofordenençasoldiers was collected, and these men were dispatched to search the house, which had been pointed out, under the command of a corporal of well-known courage. They arrived there and knocked; the door was opened by the owner, who was the priest connected with the gang; he said that he could not allow his house to be entered without an order from the ecclesiastical court. This answer was conveyed to the magistrate who had signed the order, the soldiers remaining round about the house. A second order arrived, and the bearer brought with him a couple of hatchets, thus expressively pointing out to the corporal what he was to do. Forthwith preparations were made for breaking open the door, when the priest said, that he would allow the corporal to enter alone; the man fearlessly went in, but as soon as the door was again closed the priest seized upon him, and some of his negroes who were in another apartment sprang forwards to assist their master; but the corporal disengaged himself, and standing upon the defensive called to his men, who soon broke into the house. Search was made, and the carcase and hide of the cow were found, and were with the negroes taken publicly to the nearest town. The mark of the red hot iron upon the haunch had been burnt out of the hide, that discovery might be rendered less easy. The priest was punished by suspension from saying mass for a few months. I was subsequently acquainted with him; he was received by many persons as if nothing had been amiss; but he was not received as heretofore, for the individuals of his own profession would not, generally speaking, associate with him. The circumstance had not however so completely prevented his re-entrance into decent society, as such a crime would have done in many others countries, or so much as would have occurred at Pernambuco, if he had been a layman.[86]A free negro, with whom I had been acquainted whilst I resided at this place, and who came to see me when I removed to Itamaraca, told me, with much horror pictured in his countenance, of the fate of a man who had worked for me. He said that this person occasionally became alobos homem, a wolf man. I asked him to explain, when he said that the man was at times transformed into an animal of the size of a calf, with the figure of a dog; that he left his home at midnight in this metamorphosed state, and ran about with the violence of a mad dog, and that he attacked any one whom he might chance to meet. The black man was perfectly persuaded of the correctness of his own statement, when he related having, with his brother-in-law and his sister, met this uncommon beast, near to their own cottages. I suppose it was some large dog which prowled about to satisfy his hunger in the neighbourhood of these habitations; but no, the man was persuaded that it was poor Miguel.[87]On Saturdays only, throughout the country, are cattle slaughtered; and thus weekly many persons of each neighbourhood assemble, as much to converse and hear the news as to purchase their portion of meat. On one of these occasions, a young man of colour was stooping to arrange upon the end of his walking stick the meat which he had bought, at the moment that a person of considerable power was riding up. The man of importance, when he came near to the young mulatto, struck him with a long cane with which he rode, saying “why don’t you take off your hat when a white man appears?” The blow was felt severely, and still more severely answered. The man of colour drew his knife, and quickly turning round, ran it hilt deep into the groin of him by whom he had been insulted; and then with the bloody knife in his hand, he ran off, vowing destruction upon any one who touched him. The rich man had only time before he died, to direct that the murderer should not be pursued, owning that his own impetuous tyranny had deservedly produced this catastrophe. The young man returned in a few weeks to his former home, and was not molested by the relatives of him whom he had murdered, nor did the law take cognizance of the deed.[88]The following anecdote exemplifies the feudal state of the planters a few years ago. It was related to me by a gentleman upon whose veracity I have every reason to rely. Some fifteen years ago, the governor of Pernambuco sent for a sergeant of the only regiment of the line which existed at that time, whose courage was well known and much dreaded. He received orders from the governor to proceed with all expedition possible to the sugar-plantation of Monjope, distant from Recife four leagues, for the purpose of taking the owner of that place into custody; or if he found that his apprehension alive was impracticable, he was then to bring his head to the governor. The sergeant was desired to pick out as many soldiers as he thought fit to accompany him; but he said that he should go alone, and consequently the following morning he set forth. On his arrival at Monjope, he was received by the owner of the plantation, who was a colonel of militia, or acapitam-mor. Being seated, he quietly made his errand known, shewing to the great man the order for his apprehension, and mentioning the additional instructions in case of disobedience. The colonel left the room, but soon returned with a bag containing about the value of 100l.in gold coins, and presenting this to the sergeant, told him to return and tell the governor that he would visit him as soon as possible, and explain to him the circumstances which had given rise to this mission. The sergeant took the money, and set out on his return; and by the way bought a sheep, killed it, and then cutting off its head, put this into a bag. On arriving at the palace, he placed his bloody burthen upon the ground, and pointing to it, said to the governor, “I have executed your commands; he would not come, and therefore I have brought his head.” The governor, all amazement, answered, “and have you really killed the colonel of Monjope?” The sergeant replied, “I have only acted according to the orders which I received.” The following morning, what was the astonishment of the governor, to hear that the colonel of Monjope was in waiting, and wished to see him. He gave him an audience, matters were explained, and they parted good friends. The sergeant was sent for after the departure of the colonel, and on being questioned, told the whole story, and shewed the bag of money. The governor was displeased, but at the same time ashamed of the rash orders which he had given. The sergeant was however too useful a man to be in disgrace.[89]Slaves are permitted to purchase their own freedom, on tendering to the master the sum of money which he originally gave for them. But I shall presently speak more at large of this law and of slavery, as it exists in Brazil.[90]Vide Appendix for a farther account of the coco-tree.[91]An old Portugueze, whose faith in the intercession of saints could not be very strong, being asked for alms to assist in the decoration of an image, refused to give any thing, and added, “The saints are in a much better situation than I am; they don’t want any assistance from me.”[92]I insert the following passage from No. 32d. of Dr. Thomson’s Annals of Philosophy, p. 138. It is given for the purpose of acquainting the supporters of our Lady of the O, that salt oozes from walls in an heretical, as well as in a Catholic country:“The formation of nitre upon calcareous stones in certain situations has been long known, and advantage has been taken of it to procure that important salt in great quantities; though no satisfactory theory of the formation of the salt itself has yet been offered to the public. The present paper contains a set of observations on the appearance of an efflorescence of salt-petre on the walls of the Ashmole laboratory at Oxford, a large ground room, sunk below the area of the street. The walls are built of Oxford lime-stone, a granular floetz lime-stone, containing many fragments of shells, of vegetable bodies, and composed of 96 carbonate of lime, and 4 of ochrey sand. The salt formed was nearly pure, though it contained traces of lime and of sulphuric and muriatic acids. What was formed in winter contained most lime. The formation of this salt was most rapid in frosty weather; it formed slowly, and the quantity even diminished in moist weather after it had been deposited. Exclusion from the air did not preclude the deposition of the salt, though it diminished it considerably.” p. 70.—The paper, of which the above is an analysis, is by John Kidd, M.D. professor of chemistry in Oxford.[93]Some time ago a wooden figure was brought up out of the sea in a fisherman’s net; it was deposited in a place of safety, and was on inspection, by some person who was judged competent to decide upon the subject, declared to be an image of St. Luke; it was removed to a church, and has taken its place as a representative of that saint. Now, I have heard it whispered, that this said St. Luke is no more than the figure-head of some unfortunate vessel which had been cast away, or that the figure had been broken off by a violent wave.[94]I am not certain of the situation of the Monte das Tabocas, where one of the chief battles was fought between the Portugueze and the Dutch in 1645.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 108. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family; but as I was acquainted with him and several other persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would have been mentioned, if this had been the place.[95]At the distance of twenty leagues or more from Recife, there resided formerly the Padre Pedro, upon the sugar plantation of Agua Azul, or the blue water. He had obtained a grant from the Crown, of the surrounding lands, of one square league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a high hill, the summit of which was only to be reached by a serpentine road which he had made with great labour. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill, and the field around the eminence was inclosed by a deep and broad ditch, and a thick hedge on the outside. The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in a very wild state; the woods were extensive, and almost impenetrable. The disposition of the priest was as wild as the country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from the regiments of the line, and all persons who had committed crimes in supporting the insulted honour of their families, in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion, were received by him; but he did not afford protection to the thief. The fellows who were harboured by him inhabited the woods around the field, and some of them had erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus forming a line of communication; so that with a whistle or a conch, soon were assembled at his door forty or fifty men, who were prepared to perform any service of whatever description he might name; because they well knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his aid would be given in the law’s support. To injure the priest or any of his satellites, was followed by destruction to the offending person. He was, however, in the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings; for although the government might not be able to destroy his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power. The priest was once sent for by a late governor of the province; he obeyed, and brought with him a considerable number of his determined followers; he dismounted, and ascended the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people, who remained below, that no person should be permitted to enter after him. The governor complained to him of his avowed practice of harbouring deserters; to which the priest replied, that he thought his Excellency was aware of the inutility of speaking to him upon that subject; and having said this he immediately left the room, mounted his horse, and proceeded homewards without molestation.Another anecdote of this strange man was communicated to me by a person who had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs, arrived at Agua Azul, and served a writ for debt upon him; the priest received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards he ordered some of his people to take these two men and harness them in the mill (which was then at work) in the places of two of the horses, (eight of these are employed at the same time). He then ordered that the works should go on, and that a negro boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist in its movement; there they remained for some minutes, until half dead with fatigue and fear, he turned them loose, and told them to relate to their employer the manner in which they had been treated, threatening to do the same to him, if he could obtain possession of his person. The priest had a considerable number of blood hounds, which were usually unchained, and were lying about the house; thus rendering dangerous an approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained, for a call from their master was sufficient to make them lie still, and allow of the advance of a stranger. This person died only a few years ago; but as I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters in Brazil is fast going by.[96]“Zacharias nam he ninguem.”[97]Labat, in speaking of the Indians of Guyana, says, “Leurs plus grandes richesses consistent dans les colliers de pierres vertes qui leur viennent de la riviére des Amazones. C’est un limon qu’on peche dans le fond de quelques endroits de ce grand fleuve.” He continues his description of them, and then says, “ces pierres sont spécifiques pour guêrir l’épilepsie ou le mal caduc, ou du moins pour en ôter et suspendre tous les accidens tout autant de tems qu’on les porte sur soi, et qu’elles touchent la peau.”—Voyage du Chevalier des Marchais en Guinée, isles voisines et a Cayenne, tom. iv. p. 65 and 66.The lower orders in Brazil make use of an iron ring round the wrist for this purpose.I was informed that theContas Verdescame from Africa, but some may have found their way from the Orellana, and been put into requisition by theMandingueiros.I refer the reader to the History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 607, for a farther account of the green stones of the Amazons.[98]A man of large property being much provoked at some outrage which had been committed by one of theseValentoens, (who was a white man,) had said at his own home, that when he met the man he would horsewhip him. This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they met accidentally in one of the narrow-paths in the neighbourhood. TheValentamwas well-armed with musket, sword, and knife; he requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him. The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore set spurs to his horse, but the road was without any bend for some distance; theValentamknelt down upon one knee, and fired with the effect which he wished for. He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the whole story of his meeting, at the first village through which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried, and hanged at Bahia, through the very great exertions of the brother of the person whom he had murdered. He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance from Jaguaribe, about fifteen years ago.[99]Labat speaks of a tree, of which the fruit is a perfect cure for the bite of the most dangerous snakes. He says that it comes from the isthmus of Darien; that the buccaniers were informed of its virtue by the Indians who accompanied them in their expeditions across the isthmus. He does not give the name of the tree; but says “sans nous embarasser du nom de l’arbre nous nous contentons d’appeller son fruit noix de serpent.” In his time there were three of these trees at Martinique, which were of the size of apricot trees in France. He says that he witnessed the success of the fruit. The account of the plant and its virtues is too long to be inserted here. It is to be found in theNouveau Voyage aux isles de l’Amerique, tom. iii. p. 234 to 238.In the same work, I find the following manner of cure from the bite of a snake, which will not however be very generally adopted. “Ceux qui ont assez de courage ou de charité pour s’exposer a faire cette cure se gargarisent bien la bouche avec de l’eau-de-vie; et après avoir scarifié la place, ils la succent de toute leur force, ils rejettent de tems en tems ce qu’ils ont dans la bouche, et se la nettoyent et gargarisent à chaque fois, observant de presser fortement avec les deux mains les environs de la partie blessée. On a vú de trés bons effets de cette cure, mais elle est trés-dangereuse pour celui qui la fait; car s’il a la moindre ecorchûre dans la bouche, ou qu’il avale tant soit peu de ce qu’il retire, il peut s’attendre à mourir en peu de momens, sans que toute la medecine le puisse sauver.” tom. i. p. 167.[100]In the year 1630, the island contained three and twenty sugar works.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.[101]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 36.[102]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.[103]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 489.[104]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 540.[105]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 143.[106]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 176.[107]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.[108]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 241.[109]“Porque o seu coracam assim manda.”[110]One of these Indians was selling crabs at Pasmado, when a purchaser began to pick out those which he preferred; but the Indian stopped him, saying, “Don’t begin to pick my crabs, for I belong to Amparo.” Thus even the crabs which were caught by the dependants of this great man were to be respected.[111]The dependants do not always shew the respect which, seemingly, they ought to render to their patron. One of the Indians of Amparo (not he of the crabs) met his master, the owner of the place, in the field near to the dwelling-house. The Indian took off his own hat to speak to his master, but the same was not done by his superior; however the fellow quickly performed this for him, saying “When you speak to people take off your hat.”—“Quando se falla a gente tira se o chapeo.” The master took this quietly and when the conversation ended, his hat was returned.[112]Vide Appendix.[113]I do not know whether I might not almost say of Brazil: Regarding Itamaraca, there exists the following adage, “What is it that persecutes thee island?” The answer is “The being an island, the ants and Guedes.” “Que te persegue ilha? Ilha, formiga, Guedes.” Or in other words, the inconvenience occasioned by being obliged to cross the channel from the main land; the ants, which sufficiently explain for themselves; and Guedes;—these were a family of unquiet spirits who resided in the island, and kept it in perpetual turbulence from their quarrels. The remains still exist; but now they are good and peaceable subjects.[114]“Agora Senhor Rei, vai te embora.”[115]In 1646, after the Portugueze had taken possession of the guard-ship at Os Marcos, they proceeded to that which was stationed at Itapisuma or Tapissuma, and this was burnt by the Dutch.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.[116]A man of colour with whom I was acquainted possessed several tame oxen, some of which with a cart he used to hire to the planters by the day, and one or other of his sons attended to drive them. Two of these animals were stolen, and a suspicion falling upon a man of reputed respectability in the country, who had rented a sugar plantation not far distant, one of the sons of the owner of the oxen determined to try to ascertain the fact. He dressed himself in leather, as a disguise, and rode to the dwelling of the person in question, where he arrived at dusk. The master of the house was not at home, but he spoke to the housekeeper, saying, that he had just arrived from the Sertam with cattle on sale, which would reach the neighbourhood on the following morning; he requested to know if she thought her master would purchase his drove. She answered in the affirmative, but said that he had better stay all night, for the purpose of seeing the intended purchaser, who would arrive on the next day. The false Sertanejo told her not to be uneasy about his accommodation, as he would sleep in the mill, to which he rode, and there he remained very quietly during the early part of the night. When all was still he began to search for the hides or horns of his oxen. The former would be recognised by the private mark, which was made (as is usual) with a red-hot iron upon the right haunch, and the latter he would know from the peculiar bore of their tips (by which they are in part harnessed to the cart) for he had bored them himself, and was in the constant habit of driving these oxen; besides, tame oxen are so seldom killed, that if he found any horns which were bored, he might presume that they were those of his beasts. He had given up his search, and almost all hope of finding what he sought, when, as he lay in his hammock, he happened to cast his eyes upwards, and saw two fresh out-stretched hides hanging to the higher wood-work of the mill. He scrambled up the timbers with a lighted piece of wood in one hand; and moving this to and fro near to the hides, that it might give a better light, he discovered that they bore his father’s mark. He lost no time in cutting from both of them the pieces which contained the mark, and carefully preserving these he mounted his horse about two o’clock in the morning and rode home. He kept the bits of leather as trophies, and shewed them in proof of his former assertions respecting the person who had stolen the oxen, but neither did he obtain, nor did he expect to obtain any redress. These transactions occurred in 1811, and within five leagues of Recife.
[1]I have made use of this spelling, from the word cocoa being applied in the English language indiscriminately to that tree and to the cacao; and as we most probably derived the word from the Portuguese language, it may perhaps not be considered improper to distinguish the two plants in this manner.[2]A house answering both these purposes has lately been established at Recife by an Irishman and his wife. 1815.[3]It is perhaps not generally known, that the bags of cotton are compressed, by means of machinery, into a small compass, and fastened round with ropes, that the ships which convey them may contain a greater number.[4]I did not discover any vestiges of the fort which stood here at the time of the Dutch war.[5]I shall use this word exclusively, when speaking of Europeans of this nation; and the word Brazilian, when speaking of white persons born in Brazil.[6]This is the name by which the fort is usually distinguished, but I rather think that it is not its proper appellation.[7]I am not quite certain whether it is the third or fourth.[8]I sailed from Pernambuco in the very last convoy of 1815, previous to the peace with the United States, which consisted of twenty-eight vessels, viz. two ships of war, two prizes to them, and twenty-four merchant vessels, fourteen of which were from Pernambuco, and the remaining ten from Rio de Janeiro and Bahia.[9]An edict has lately been issued at Rio de Janeiro by the Regent, declaring himself the Prince Regent of the United Kingdoms of Portugal, Brazil, and the Two Algarves. 1816.[10]I saw, in the year 1814, a very fine root of wheat that had been raised in the Campina Grande of the province of Paraiba, about thirty leagues to the northward of Recife.[11]This has lately been removed to Recife, owing to a report of some plan of revolt amongst the negroes, which has since proved to be without foundation. 1815.[12]A Portugueze gentleman once observed to me, that in France and other countries many clever men had written and spoken strongly, and for a considerable length of time against this way of life, and that they at last even effected their purpose with much difficulty; but, he added, in Pernambuco such is the conduct of the friars, that no writing and no speaking is necessary to bring them into disrepute.[13]“Irmam, não tenha vergonha.”[14]In speaking of the Priesthood, it must be always recollected, that the Secular and Regular Clergy are two totally different bodies of men, and as distinct in their utility, their knowledge, and their manners, as they are in their situation in life.[15]I think that the Caza Forte and the Cazas de Dona Anna Paes, of which an account is given in the History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 124, distinguish the same place under different names.[16]When the Englishmen, who first established themselves at Recife, had finished the stock of tea which they had brought with them, they enquired where more could be purchased, and were directed to an apothecary’s shop. They went, and asked simply for tea, when the man wished to know what kind of tea they meant; he at last understood them, and said, “O, you want East-Indian tea,” “Cha da India,”—thus considering it as he would any other drug. But at the time of which I am now speaking, great quantities are consumed.[17]I once heard, that a person who had been in England, and had returned to Pernambuco, observed, that the two things which surprised him the most in that country, were, that the people did not die, and that the children spoke English. He was asked his reason for supposing that his first wonder was correct, to which he answered, that he never had seen the Sacrament taken to the sick.[18]AJuiz Conservador, Judge Conservator, of the British nation has been appointed for Pernambuco, but at the period of my departure from Recife, he was not arrived. Very soon after the commencement of a direct commercial intercourse with Great Britain, a vice-consul was appointed for Pernambuco, by the consul-general at Rio de Janeiro; this person was superseded by a consul sent out direct from England, who is subject to the consul-general of Brazil, but the place is disposed of by the government at home.[19]When Brazil was in its infancy, the clergy could not subsist upon their tythes, and therefore petitioned the government of Portugal to pay them a certain stipend, and receive the tenths for its own account; this was accepted, but now that the tenths have increased in value twenty-fold, the government still pays to the vicars the same stipends. The clergy of the present day, bitterly complain of the agreement made by those to whom they have succeeded.[20]A great confusion exists in Brazil respecting measures. Every captaincy has its own, agreeing neither with those of its neighbours, nor with the measures of Portugal, though the same names are used invariably: thus acanadaand analqueirein Pernambuco represent a much greater quantity than the same denominations in Portugal, and less than in some of the other provinces of Brazil.[21]A patent has been obtained, and a manufactory established upon a large scale for making cordage from the outward rind of the coco-nut. Ropes of this description are, I believe, much used in the East Indies.[22]An old woman applied at the gates of a convent, late one evening, and told the porter, an old friar, who was quite blind, that she wished one of the brothers to go with her, for the purpose of confessing a sick person. The old man, with perfect unconcern, gave her to understand, that they were all out, adding, “but if you will go to the garden gate, and wait there, some of them will soon be creeping in.”[23]The younger members of the Franciscan order enjoy very much the duty of going out to beg, as opportunities offer of amusing themselves. A guardian was chosen at Paraiba some years ago, who examined the chest in which the money belonging to the community was kept, and on finding a considerable sum in it, gave orders that no one should go out to beg. He was a conscientious man, and said, that as they had already enough, the people must not be importuned for more, until what they possessed was finished. He kept the whole community within the walls of the convent for the term of two or three years, for which each guardian is appointed. On another occasion, the friars of a Franciscan convent chose for their guardian a young man, whose life had been very irregularly spent in any thing rather than the duties of his calling, under the idea, that during the continuance of his guardianship, they would lead a merry life,—that very little attention would be paid to the rules and regulations of the Order; but they were mistaken, he changed his habits as soon as he found himself at their head; the gates were rigidly closed at the proper hour, and according to the old and vulgar proverb, of “Set a thief,” &c. the duties of the convent were performed with much greater austerity than before.[24]An anecdote was related to me of one of these couples, which occurred some years ago, under a former Governor. A solitary passenger, between Olinda and Recife, witnessed part of the following scene, and the remainder was described by one of the actors in it. A couple of criminals, of which one was a white man, and the other a negro, accompanied by their guard, were walking over the sands, to reach a ford, and cross the river at its narrowest part. Three horsemen, one of whom led a fourth horse, saddled and bridled, rode up, and one of them knocked the soldier down, whilst the white man of the chained couple urged his companion to go with him to the led horse, and mount up behind him: this the black man refused to do, when one of the horsemen, who seemed to direct the others, called out, “Cut the fellow’s leg off.” The criminals are secured to each other by the ankle. The negro now agreed, and both mounted the horse, and the whole party galloped away, first binding the soldier hand and foot. They passed through Olinda at full speed, and when they had arrived at some distance, a large file was made use of, and the negro was set down with all the chains and bolts. The party then proceeded, and were never afterwards heard of. It was imagined, that the man who made his escape in this manner, was the relation of a rich person in the interior, who had either committed some crime, or had been thus unjustly punished.[25]Lately, a cadet has come forwards, and has taken the direction of these matters; he has apprehended several persons of infamous character, but of determined courage; he has done much good, risking his life under circumstances of great danger, and even to extreme rashness has he been carried by his zeal. This young man well deserves promotion. That thus the police should fall into the hands of inferior officers, shows the irregular footing upon which it stands.—1814.[26]The arrival of another colonel to the regiment of Recife, and the increase of activity in the officers, has altered its appearance much for the better. The regiment of Olinda or of artillery, has been also much improved by the attention of its colonel, and the entrance into it of several well-educated Brazilian officers of the first families.[27]The lower part of the town is the site of the siege, which, in its infancy, the settlement sustained against the savages, as is “related by Hans Stade, the first traveller who wrote any account of Brazil.”—History of Brazil, Vol. I. p. 46.[28]I had frequent opportunities afterwards of resting at this inn; on one of these, I happened to ask for salt, which is not usually placed upon the table; the master of the house, in the customary familiar manner of the country, expressed his surprise, at the additional quantity of salt which I wished for, but it was brought to me, and nothing further was said. This occurred in the morning, soon after our arrival at the place; at dinner, to our dismay, the soup and almost all the other dishes were so plentifully supplied with the unfortunate ingredient, as to be scarcely eatable. We complained of this to the master, who answered, “Why, I thought you liked salt.” “Cuidei que eram amigos de sal.”[29]Is this word abbreviated fromDesertam, used as an augmentative (according to the Portugueze custom) forDeserto?[30]Matutos, woodmen, inhabitants of themato.[31]A person with whom I was afterwards acquainted, has since cleared one of these islands, and has formed some salt-works upon it.[32]The wordSertamis used rather indefinitely, as it does not only mean the interior of the country, but likewise a great part of the coast, of which the population is yet scanty, receives this general name. Thus, the whole of the country between Rio Grande and Pernaiba is called Sertam. Pernaiba is a small province, situated between Seara and Maranham.[33]The rafts employed upon small rivers are of a construction similar to those already described on a former occasion, save that still less workmanship is bestowed upon them.[34]History of Brazil, Vol. II. p. 104 and 155.[35]The castor tree is known in Brazil under the same name; indeed, there is much similarity between the seed of this plant, from which the oil is extracted, and the larger kind of tick.[36]Between two and three years after this journey, I heard again of my friend the Major. I became acquainted with a man who resided at the foot of the Serra do Teixeira, which is beyond the estates of the major’s father. The old colonel was killed by a bull before his own door. The animal had been driven into a small inclosure, and became mad from feeling himself confined. It was necessary to bring him to the ground, which is done in a peculiar manner, by running a short iron prong into a certain part of the thigh. The herdsmen were afraid, and wished to let the beast have time to cool and become less violent; the old man, who was between seventy and eighty years of age, told them, that if they were afraid, he would attack him, and immediately entered the inclosure; but before he could prepare to receive the bull, and was still leaning against the palings, the animal ran at him, and fixed his horns through the old man’s body, with sufficient force to run them into the palings, and in such a manner that before he could extricate himself, one of the herdsmen ran a long knife into his head between the horns, and brought him to the ground; but the old man lost his life.[37]“Falla a lingua de negro.”[38]Vide Appendix.[39]“Deixa estar meu amo.”[40]I heard in the beginning of the year 1815, that the bar had been completely choaked up during a violent gale of wind from the sea, whilst two coasters were in the river, taking in cargoes for Pernambuco.[41]This person has since been removed to a province of more importance.[42]“Mofino como caboclo.”[43]I heard, from good authority, that there are two instances of Indians having been ordained as secular priests, and that both these individuals died from excessive drinking.[44]Caboclo he so para hoje.[45]Another member of this family was also to be apprehended, but the governor could not fix upon any means by which the arrest was to be accomplished. A man of well-known intrepidity and of some power was sent for by the governor, to consult with him upon the subject. This person offered to go alone, and acquaint the Feitoza with the orders that had been issued against him, and in fact to try to take him into custody. He set off, but Feitoza was apprized of his coming and of his errand, and, immediately leaving his estate, proceeded to Bahia, where he embarked for Lisbon, arriving in due time at that place. The person who set off to arrest him followed him from place to place, arrived at Bahia, and embarked for and landed at Lisbon. He enquired for Feitoza, heard that he had spoken to the secretary of state, and had again embarked on his return homewards, but that the ship was delayed by contrary winds.Helikewise went to the secretary, and shewed the orders which he had received for the arrest of Feitoza, making known the particular crimes which had made his apprehension requisite. Feitoza was taken into custody and put into the Limoeiro prison, where his persecutor or prosecutor went to visit him, saying as he approached,—“Well, did not I say so,”—“Entam eu que disse,” alluding to his determination of apprehending him. He returned to Brazil and gave an account of his mission to the governor, from whom he had received his orders. This man was well known in the province of Searà, and the truth of the story is vouched for by many respectable persons with whom I conversed. This Feitoza has not been heard of.[46]Arruda says it is white, vide Appendix, therefore some other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw.[47]Cabeça de Vaca is particularly mentioned.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 109.[48]There is a print in Barlæus which represents the Portugueze crossing the river St. Francisco upon rafts or logs of timber; these must, I think, have been similar to those which are at present used in the Sertam.[49]A mulatto woman once said to me, “The children of mulattos are like whelps, they are of all colours.” “Filho de mulatto, he como filho de cachorro, hum sahe branco, outro pardo e outro negro.”[50]Dr. Manoel Arruda da Camara says, that before the dreadful drought of 1793, it was considered to be one of the duties of the herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that which was already half tamed, might not be induced to mix with it, and by this means become wild; and he adds, that this is still the case in the Sertoens of Piauhi. He published his pamphlets in 1810.[51]When I resided at Jaguaribe, and upon the island of Itamaraca, in the years 1813 and 1814, I took some pains in this matter; but the meat was not good, and though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavour than that of the same species of animal in England, still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more unequal to the mutton of England, than is the case respecting the beef of the two countries.[52]Lieutenant-Colonel Joam da Silva Feijò, in a pamphlet published at Rio de Janeiro in 1811, on the sheep of the province of Searà, says, “That the sheep of that part of the country bear wool which has all the marks of being of a superior quality; that it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of a good length, and strong.” He again says, “That the governor,” the same of whom I have spoken, “sent a small quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed.” I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Searà, and his opinion must of course be taken in preference to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the same province; however, I bought several as food, and their skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have above described. When I resided at Jaguaribe and Itamaraca, I possessed a considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak positively.[53]Vaccination is finding its way among them in spite of prejudice.—1815.[54]This branch of trade increases most rapidly.—1815.[55]Vide Appendix for a further account of this wax.[56]Vide Appendix for a further account of this plant.[57]In the year 1813, I was one evening in company, when I heard a gentleman request one of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present, if any of them had ever left a horse upon his plantation. I turned round and recognised the colonel of Cunhàû. The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards.[58]In the year 1812, I met Feliciano and one of the others, who was his brother-in-law, in one of the streets of Recife. They recollected me, and I was stopped by both of them getting hold of my coat on each side. They asked me if I was going again to travel, for if I was, they said that they were unemployed, and would go with me. Their attack had so much the appearance of being more in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that one or two of my acquaintance who chanced to pass at the time, stopped and enquired what was the matter, supposing that I had got into some scrape. These fellows literally held me fast, until I had answered all their questions. Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavourable character which I have given of the Indians; but unfortunately, individual instances prove very little.[59]I had imagined that he did not intend to return again into my service; but on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him at the house of one of my friends, employed as a household servant, and I heard that he had come down to Recife two days after I had left the place, for the purpose of remaining with me; but as I was gone, he had entered into the service in which I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all the bad qualities of the Indians; and if I was again to travel in that country, I should use every endeavour to have him in company. He belonged to Alhandra.[60]The information which is contained in this note I had from Captain Juan Roman Trivino, of the Spanish ship St. Joze, of 300 tons burthen. He received orders to proceed from Rio de Janeiro to Maranham, for the purpose of loading cotton, in the commencement of the year 1815. He arrived off the settlement of Searà, and sent on shore for a pilot to take him to St. Luiz; he was informed that none resided at Searà, but that he would find one at Jeriquaqùara, a high hill between Searà and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place, he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came on board, and offered to pilot him to St. Luiz. This was agreed to, and they proceeded; but from mistaking the two points of land in the manner mentioned above, the Indian took the vessel into the bay of St. Joze, on the 15th March. They kept the lead going, even before they discovered the error into which they had been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound to St. Luiz. The ship was brought to an anchor off the village of St. Joze, which is situated upon the N.E. point of the island of Maranham, in eleven fathoms water. Whilst they continued in the mid-channel of the bay, they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of water regularly decreases from the centre of the bay towards the land on each side; but it contains no insulated sand banks. The ship was at anchor off the village of St. Joze two days; they then proceeded through the channel, which is inclosed on either side by mangroves, and is so narrow in some parts that the yards at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair, and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five to two and a half fathoms; the bottom was of mud. About halfway through the channel, the tide from the bay of St. Joze and that from the bay of St. Marcos meet. This takes place nearly but not quite opposite to the mouth of the river Itapicuru. They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground at St. Joze to the island of Taua, which is situated near to the S. W. corner of the island of Maranham. Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the captain sent to St. Luiz for another pilot, as the man who had brought them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of the navigation. The island of Taua is rocky, and uninhabited, and is covered with palm trees. The village of St. Joze appeared to Captain Trivino to be of considerable size, but, with the exception of two or three, the houses were built of slight timber and of the leaves of different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen. He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there. Captain Trivino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicuru is at its mouth 120 yards wide, and that its depth is one fathom and a half.[61]Joam IV. sent over one Bartholomew Barreiros de Ataide with three miners, one a Venetian and the other two French, to search for gold and silver. After two years’ search up the Amazons they returned to Maranham, and offered to supply the people with iron at acruzado, about 2s. 4d.,per quintal, 128 lbs. weight, if the state would engage to take all that they should produce at that price. The people were afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was so rich in this ore that foreign cosmographers called it theilha do ferroin their maps, and all who came there with any knowledge of the subject said that it was ore of the best quality. A thing of great importance to Portugal, which bought all its iron, and yet this discovery was neglected.—From a Memoir of Manoel Guedes Aranha, Procurador from Maranham, 1685, in the 6th Vol. Pinheiro Collection of MSS. in the possession of Mr. Southey.A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the captaincy of St. Paulo, called “The Royal Fabric of S. Joam de Ypanema.” I obtained a knowledge of the fact from two letters in Nos. 45 and 56 of theInvestigador Portuguez, a periodical publication published in London. I am sorry to say, that the two letters to which I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the directors of the Fabric.[62]I have just in time received the following statement of the exportation of cotton from Maranham, from the year 1809 to 1815:Vessels.Bags.1809.To Great Britain in5155,835——To other parts2921,0061810.To Great Britain3740,684——To other parts1911,7931811.To Great Britain3648,705——To other parts196,0531812.To Great Britain2935,767——To other parts294,8031813.To Great Britain3550,072——To other parts2710,1011814.To Great Britain2231,205——To other parts3414,4361815.To Great Britain3228,539——To other parts4922,216[63]A person of the name of Belfort first planted rice at Maranham, and some of his descendants now reside there in opulence.[64]“There were five sugar works or engines, as they are called, at Itapicuru, which compounded for 5000 arrobas of their produce. On the island there were six engines in full employ, 1641.”—History of Brazil, Vol.II, p. 9.[65]He has been removed, was ordered to Lisbon, and ultimately, on his return to Rio de Janeiro, was refused admittance, for a short time, to the Prince Regent.[66]It is not perhaps generally known, that there are published in London three or four Portugueze periodical works. One of them is prohibited in Brazil, and I have heard it said, that all of them are so situated; but they are principally intended for Brazilian readers, and they find their way all over the country, notwithstanding the prohibition. I have seen them in the hands of civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers, and have heard them publicly spoken of by them. It is said that the Regent reads them, and is occasionally pleased with their invectives against some of the men in power.[67]About twelve months afterwards, I had an opportunity of being personally known to this man, and found him to be very superior to any individual of his or any other order of friars with whom I have been acquainted.[68]A British consul has since been appointed to Maranham.[69]Anouvidorhas been appointed to Aldeas Altas, and Piauhi has been raised to the rank of an independent provincial government. These are improvements which shew that regular government is gaining ground.[70]Before I came away in 1815, a considerable portion of the sand (which was covered by the tide at high water) between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, had been raised, and houses had been built upon it. The principal street of St. Antonio has been paved. The bridge of Boa Vista has been rebuilt of timber; and that between St. Antonio and Recife was about to undergo considerable repair. The hospitals, likewise, were to be improved; and as I have heard since my arrival in England, of the appointment of a most worthy man to the direction of one of them, I trust that this intention has been acted upon.[71]Vide Appendix.[72]Bolingbroke says, that instances are frequent of some of the European swine escaping into the woods, where they live wild; and he adds, that their increase has been immense. In another place he speaks of a species of this animal, which is peculiar to tropical America, and is called the warree which he says is about the size of an European hog, and much like it in shape. Theporco do matois not thesus tajassu, which is, I imagine, what Bolingbroke calls the picaree hog.—Voyage to the Demerary, &c. by Henry Bolingbroke, in Phillips’ Collection of Modern Voyages, vol. x. p. 57 and 129.The tajaçu is to be met with at Maranham, but is not known at Pernambuco.[73]Directions were given by thecapitam-mor, that a reservoir for rain water should be formed; and these have been carried into effect. 1815.[74]The Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday are properly the days of theintrudo, but the sport is, as in the case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time. Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium is preserved, and every thing is taken up heedlessly and thrown about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty, whether it may do mischief or is harmless.[75]The account which Labat gives ofl’arbre à Savonettesdoes not agree in all points with mine; the difference may arise from various circumstances to which some clew might have been discovered, if attention had been paid to the subject upon the spot. He says that the leaves are three inches in length, and “cet arbre est un de plus gros, des plus grands et des meilleurs qui croissent aux isles.”—Nouveau Voyage, &c.Tom. vii. p. 383. Du Tertre says, that it growsen abondance le long de la mer; dans les lieux les plus secs et les plus arides.—Histoire des Antilles, &c.Tom. ii. p. 165. I have only heard of the Saboeiro at some distance from the coast.[76]Limoeiro was raised to a township by an Alvará issued from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th July, 1811; but this was not then known. It has now a mayor, municipality, andcapitam-mor.[77]This place was erected a township by the same Alvará, which was issued respecting Limoeiro; and by the same, the villages of Cape St. Augustin and of St. Antam were likewise raised to the rank of towns; a sure sign is this of the increase of population.[78]This village is as much or more generally known by the name of Lagoa d’Anta, as by that of Nazareth; but the latter is the name which it bears in law. The former name, which means the Lake of the Anta, seems to denote that that animal was known in this part of the country; but in the present day, I could not meet with any of the peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify.[79]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.[80]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.[81]History of Brazil, Vol. ii. p. 237.[82]“Senhora nam, he o Diabo.”[83]“Que diz, meu amo?”[84]“Ave-Maria, Nosso Senhor nos livre.”[85]These practices were, or rather are, at present, carried on in one part of the country with which I am well acquainted. The persons who commit the crimes are white men and of high birth. Among them was a priest. The magistrate of the district in question was applied to by a man who had lost a cow, mentioning that he more than suspected where she was, and at the same time naming the place. Atropa, a troop or party, ofordenençasoldiers was collected, and these men were dispatched to search the house, which had been pointed out, under the command of a corporal of well-known courage. They arrived there and knocked; the door was opened by the owner, who was the priest connected with the gang; he said that he could not allow his house to be entered without an order from the ecclesiastical court. This answer was conveyed to the magistrate who had signed the order, the soldiers remaining round about the house. A second order arrived, and the bearer brought with him a couple of hatchets, thus expressively pointing out to the corporal what he was to do. Forthwith preparations were made for breaking open the door, when the priest said, that he would allow the corporal to enter alone; the man fearlessly went in, but as soon as the door was again closed the priest seized upon him, and some of his negroes who were in another apartment sprang forwards to assist their master; but the corporal disengaged himself, and standing upon the defensive called to his men, who soon broke into the house. Search was made, and the carcase and hide of the cow were found, and were with the negroes taken publicly to the nearest town. The mark of the red hot iron upon the haunch had been burnt out of the hide, that discovery might be rendered less easy. The priest was punished by suspension from saying mass for a few months. I was subsequently acquainted with him; he was received by many persons as if nothing had been amiss; but he was not received as heretofore, for the individuals of his own profession would not, generally speaking, associate with him. The circumstance had not however so completely prevented his re-entrance into decent society, as such a crime would have done in many others countries, or so much as would have occurred at Pernambuco, if he had been a layman.[86]A free negro, with whom I had been acquainted whilst I resided at this place, and who came to see me when I removed to Itamaraca, told me, with much horror pictured in his countenance, of the fate of a man who had worked for me. He said that this person occasionally became alobos homem, a wolf man. I asked him to explain, when he said that the man was at times transformed into an animal of the size of a calf, with the figure of a dog; that he left his home at midnight in this metamorphosed state, and ran about with the violence of a mad dog, and that he attacked any one whom he might chance to meet. The black man was perfectly persuaded of the correctness of his own statement, when he related having, with his brother-in-law and his sister, met this uncommon beast, near to their own cottages. I suppose it was some large dog which prowled about to satisfy his hunger in the neighbourhood of these habitations; but no, the man was persuaded that it was poor Miguel.[87]On Saturdays only, throughout the country, are cattle slaughtered; and thus weekly many persons of each neighbourhood assemble, as much to converse and hear the news as to purchase their portion of meat. On one of these occasions, a young man of colour was stooping to arrange upon the end of his walking stick the meat which he had bought, at the moment that a person of considerable power was riding up. The man of importance, when he came near to the young mulatto, struck him with a long cane with which he rode, saying “why don’t you take off your hat when a white man appears?” The blow was felt severely, and still more severely answered. The man of colour drew his knife, and quickly turning round, ran it hilt deep into the groin of him by whom he had been insulted; and then with the bloody knife in his hand, he ran off, vowing destruction upon any one who touched him. The rich man had only time before he died, to direct that the murderer should not be pursued, owning that his own impetuous tyranny had deservedly produced this catastrophe. The young man returned in a few weeks to his former home, and was not molested by the relatives of him whom he had murdered, nor did the law take cognizance of the deed.[88]The following anecdote exemplifies the feudal state of the planters a few years ago. It was related to me by a gentleman upon whose veracity I have every reason to rely. Some fifteen years ago, the governor of Pernambuco sent for a sergeant of the only regiment of the line which existed at that time, whose courage was well known and much dreaded. He received orders from the governor to proceed with all expedition possible to the sugar-plantation of Monjope, distant from Recife four leagues, for the purpose of taking the owner of that place into custody; or if he found that his apprehension alive was impracticable, he was then to bring his head to the governor. The sergeant was desired to pick out as many soldiers as he thought fit to accompany him; but he said that he should go alone, and consequently the following morning he set forth. On his arrival at Monjope, he was received by the owner of the plantation, who was a colonel of militia, or acapitam-mor. Being seated, he quietly made his errand known, shewing to the great man the order for his apprehension, and mentioning the additional instructions in case of disobedience. The colonel left the room, but soon returned with a bag containing about the value of 100l.in gold coins, and presenting this to the sergeant, told him to return and tell the governor that he would visit him as soon as possible, and explain to him the circumstances which had given rise to this mission. The sergeant took the money, and set out on his return; and by the way bought a sheep, killed it, and then cutting off its head, put this into a bag. On arriving at the palace, he placed his bloody burthen upon the ground, and pointing to it, said to the governor, “I have executed your commands; he would not come, and therefore I have brought his head.” The governor, all amazement, answered, “and have you really killed the colonel of Monjope?” The sergeant replied, “I have only acted according to the orders which I received.” The following morning, what was the astonishment of the governor, to hear that the colonel of Monjope was in waiting, and wished to see him. He gave him an audience, matters were explained, and they parted good friends. The sergeant was sent for after the departure of the colonel, and on being questioned, told the whole story, and shewed the bag of money. The governor was displeased, but at the same time ashamed of the rash orders which he had given. The sergeant was however too useful a man to be in disgrace.[89]Slaves are permitted to purchase their own freedom, on tendering to the master the sum of money which he originally gave for them. But I shall presently speak more at large of this law and of slavery, as it exists in Brazil.[90]Vide Appendix for a farther account of the coco-tree.[91]An old Portugueze, whose faith in the intercession of saints could not be very strong, being asked for alms to assist in the decoration of an image, refused to give any thing, and added, “The saints are in a much better situation than I am; they don’t want any assistance from me.”[92]I insert the following passage from No. 32d. of Dr. Thomson’s Annals of Philosophy, p. 138. It is given for the purpose of acquainting the supporters of our Lady of the O, that salt oozes from walls in an heretical, as well as in a Catholic country:“The formation of nitre upon calcareous stones in certain situations has been long known, and advantage has been taken of it to procure that important salt in great quantities; though no satisfactory theory of the formation of the salt itself has yet been offered to the public. The present paper contains a set of observations on the appearance of an efflorescence of salt-petre on the walls of the Ashmole laboratory at Oxford, a large ground room, sunk below the area of the street. The walls are built of Oxford lime-stone, a granular floetz lime-stone, containing many fragments of shells, of vegetable bodies, and composed of 96 carbonate of lime, and 4 of ochrey sand. The salt formed was nearly pure, though it contained traces of lime and of sulphuric and muriatic acids. What was formed in winter contained most lime. The formation of this salt was most rapid in frosty weather; it formed slowly, and the quantity even diminished in moist weather after it had been deposited. Exclusion from the air did not preclude the deposition of the salt, though it diminished it considerably.” p. 70.—The paper, of which the above is an analysis, is by John Kidd, M.D. professor of chemistry in Oxford.[93]Some time ago a wooden figure was brought up out of the sea in a fisherman’s net; it was deposited in a place of safety, and was on inspection, by some person who was judged competent to decide upon the subject, declared to be an image of St. Luke; it was removed to a church, and has taken its place as a representative of that saint. Now, I have heard it whispered, that this said St. Luke is no more than the figure-head of some unfortunate vessel which had been cast away, or that the figure had been broken off by a violent wave.[94]I am not certain of the situation of the Monte das Tabocas, where one of the chief battles was fought between the Portugueze and the Dutch in 1645.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 108. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family; but as I was acquainted with him and several other persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would have been mentioned, if this had been the place.[95]At the distance of twenty leagues or more from Recife, there resided formerly the Padre Pedro, upon the sugar plantation of Agua Azul, or the blue water. He had obtained a grant from the Crown, of the surrounding lands, of one square league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a high hill, the summit of which was only to be reached by a serpentine road which he had made with great labour. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill, and the field around the eminence was inclosed by a deep and broad ditch, and a thick hedge on the outside. The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in a very wild state; the woods were extensive, and almost impenetrable. The disposition of the priest was as wild as the country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from the regiments of the line, and all persons who had committed crimes in supporting the insulted honour of their families, in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion, were received by him; but he did not afford protection to the thief. The fellows who were harboured by him inhabited the woods around the field, and some of them had erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus forming a line of communication; so that with a whistle or a conch, soon were assembled at his door forty or fifty men, who were prepared to perform any service of whatever description he might name; because they well knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his aid would be given in the law’s support. To injure the priest or any of his satellites, was followed by destruction to the offending person. He was, however, in the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings; for although the government might not be able to destroy his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power. The priest was once sent for by a late governor of the province; he obeyed, and brought with him a considerable number of his determined followers; he dismounted, and ascended the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people, who remained below, that no person should be permitted to enter after him. The governor complained to him of his avowed practice of harbouring deserters; to which the priest replied, that he thought his Excellency was aware of the inutility of speaking to him upon that subject; and having said this he immediately left the room, mounted his horse, and proceeded homewards without molestation.Another anecdote of this strange man was communicated to me by a person who had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs, arrived at Agua Azul, and served a writ for debt upon him; the priest received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards he ordered some of his people to take these two men and harness them in the mill (which was then at work) in the places of two of the horses, (eight of these are employed at the same time). He then ordered that the works should go on, and that a negro boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist in its movement; there they remained for some minutes, until half dead with fatigue and fear, he turned them loose, and told them to relate to their employer the manner in which they had been treated, threatening to do the same to him, if he could obtain possession of his person. The priest had a considerable number of blood hounds, which were usually unchained, and were lying about the house; thus rendering dangerous an approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained, for a call from their master was sufficient to make them lie still, and allow of the advance of a stranger. This person died only a few years ago; but as I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters in Brazil is fast going by.[96]“Zacharias nam he ninguem.”[97]Labat, in speaking of the Indians of Guyana, says, “Leurs plus grandes richesses consistent dans les colliers de pierres vertes qui leur viennent de la riviére des Amazones. C’est un limon qu’on peche dans le fond de quelques endroits de ce grand fleuve.” He continues his description of them, and then says, “ces pierres sont spécifiques pour guêrir l’épilepsie ou le mal caduc, ou du moins pour en ôter et suspendre tous les accidens tout autant de tems qu’on les porte sur soi, et qu’elles touchent la peau.”—Voyage du Chevalier des Marchais en Guinée, isles voisines et a Cayenne, tom. iv. p. 65 and 66.The lower orders in Brazil make use of an iron ring round the wrist for this purpose.I was informed that theContas Verdescame from Africa, but some may have found their way from the Orellana, and been put into requisition by theMandingueiros.I refer the reader to the History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 607, for a farther account of the green stones of the Amazons.[98]A man of large property being much provoked at some outrage which had been committed by one of theseValentoens, (who was a white man,) had said at his own home, that when he met the man he would horsewhip him. This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they met accidentally in one of the narrow-paths in the neighbourhood. TheValentamwas well-armed with musket, sword, and knife; he requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him. The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore set spurs to his horse, but the road was without any bend for some distance; theValentamknelt down upon one knee, and fired with the effect which he wished for. He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the whole story of his meeting, at the first village through which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried, and hanged at Bahia, through the very great exertions of the brother of the person whom he had murdered. He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance from Jaguaribe, about fifteen years ago.[99]Labat speaks of a tree, of which the fruit is a perfect cure for the bite of the most dangerous snakes. He says that it comes from the isthmus of Darien; that the buccaniers were informed of its virtue by the Indians who accompanied them in their expeditions across the isthmus. He does not give the name of the tree; but says “sans nous embarasser du nom de l’arbre nous nous contentons d’appeller son fruit noix de serpent.” In his time there were three of these trees at Martinique, which were of the size of apricot trees in France. He says that he witnessed the success of the fruit. The account of the plant and its virtues is too long to be inserted here. It is to be found in theNouveau Voyage aux isles de l’Amerique, tom. iii. p. 234 to 238.In the same work, I find the following manner of cure from the bite of a snake, which will not however be very generally adopted. “Ceux qui ont assez de courage ou de charité pour s’exposer a faire cette cure se gargarisent bien la bouche avec de l’eau-de-vie; et après avoir scarifié la place, ils la succent de toute leur force, ils rejettent de tems en tems ce qu’ils ont dans la bouche, et se la nettoyent et gargarisent à chaque fois, observant de presser fortement avec les deux mains les environs de la partie blessée. On a vú de trés bons effets de cette cure, mais elle est trés-dangereuse pour celui qui la fait; car s’il a la moindre ecorchûre dans la bouche, ou qu’il avale tant soit peu de ce qu’il retire, il peut s’attendre à mourir en peu de momens, sans que toute la medecine le puisse sauver.” tom. i. p. 167.[100]In the year 1630, the island contained three and twenty sugar works.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.[101]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 36.[102]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.[103]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 489.[104]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 540.[105]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 143.[106]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 176.[107]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.[108]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 241.[109]“Porque o seu coracam assim manda.”[110]One of these Indians was selling crabs at Pasmado, when a purchaser began to pick out those which he preferred; but the Indian stopped him, saying, “Don’t begin to pick my crabs, for I belong to Amparo.” Thus even the crabs which were caught by the dependants of this great man were to be respected.[111]The dependants do not always shew the respect which, seemingly, they ought to render to their patron. One of the Indians of Amparo (not he of the crabs) met his master, the owner of the place, in the field near to the dwelling-house. The Indian took off his own hat to speak to his master, but the same was not done by his superior; however the fellow quickly performed this for him, saying “When you speak to people take off your hat.”—“Quando se falla a gente tira se o chapeo.” The master took this quietly and when the conversation ended, his hat was returned.[112]Vide Appendix.[113]I do not know whether I might not almost say of Brazil: Regarding Itamaraca, there exists the following adage, “What is it that persecutes thee island?” The answer is “The being an island, the ants and Guedes.” “Que te persegue ilha? Ilha, formiga, Guedes.” Or in other words, the inconvenience occasioned by being obliged to cross the channel from the main land; the ants, which sufficiently explain for themselves; and Guedes;—these were a family of unquiet spirits who resided in the island, and kept it in perpetual turbulence from their quarrels. The remains still exist; but now they are good and peaceable subjects.[114]“Agora Senhor Rei, vai te embora.”[115]In 1646, after the Portugueze had taken possession of the guard-ship at Os Marcos, they proceeded to that which was stationed at Itapisuma or Tapissuma, and this was burnt by the Dutch.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.[116]A man of colour with whom I was acquainted possessed several tame oxen, some of which with a cart he used to hire to the planters by the day, and one or other of his sons attended to drive them. Two of these animals were stolen, and a suspicion falling upon a man of reputed respectability in the country, who had rented a sugar plantation not far distant, one of the sons of the owner of the oxen determined to try to ascertain the fact. He dressed himself in leather, as a disguise, and rode to the dwelling of the person in question, where he arrived at dusk. The master of the house was not at home, but he spoke to the housekeeper, saying, that he had just arrived from the Sertam with cattle on sale, which would reach the neighbourhood on the following morning; he requested to know if she thought her master would purchase his drove. She answered in the affirmative, but said that he had better stay all night, for the purpose of seeing the intended purchaser, who would arrive on the next day. The false Sertanejo told her not to be uneasy about his accommodation, as he would sleep in the mill, to which he rode, and there he remained very quietly during the early part of the night. When all was still he began to search for the hides or horns of his oxen. The former would be recognised by the private mark, which was made (as is usual) with a red-hot iron upon the right haunch, and the latter he would know from the peculiar bore of their tips (by which they are in part harnessed to the cart) for he had bored them himself, and was in the constant habit of driving these oxen; besides, tame oxen are so seldom killed, that if he found any horns which were bored, he might presume that they were those of his beasts. He had given up his search, and almost all hope of finding what he sought, when, as he lay in his hammock, he happened to cast his eyes upwards, and saw two fresh out-stretched hides hanging to the higher wood-work of the mill. He scrambled up the timbers with a lighted piece of wood in one hand; and moving this to and fro near to the hides, that it might give a better light, he discovered that they bore his father’s mark. He lost no time in cutting from both of them the pieces which contained the mark, and carefully preserving these he mounted his horse about two o’clock in the morning and rode home. He kept the bits of leather as trophies, and shewed them in proof of his former assertions respecting the person who had stolen the oxen, but neither did he obtain, nor did he expect to obtain any redress. These transactions occurred in 1811, and within five leagues of Recife.
[1]I have made use of this spelling, from the word cocoa being applied in the English language indiscriminately to that tree and to the cacao; and as we most probably derived the word from the Portuguese language, it may perhaps not be considered improper to distinguish the two plants in this manner.
[2]A house answering both these purposes has lately been established at Recife by an Irishman and his wife. 1815.
[3]It is perhaps not generally known, that the bags of cotton are compressed, by means of machinery, into a small compass, and fastened round with ropes, that the ships which convey them may contain a greater number.
[4]I did not discover any vestiges of the fort which stood here at the time of the Dutch war.
[5]I shall use this word exclusively, when speaking of Europeans of this nation; and the word Brazilian, when speaking of white persons born in Brazil.
[6]This is the name by which the fort is usually distinguished, but I rather think that it is not its proper appellation.
[7]I am not quite certain whether it is the third or fourth.
[8]I sailed from Pernambuco in the very last convoy of 1815, previous to the peace with the United States, which consisted of twenty-eight vessels, viz. two ships of war, two prizes to them, and twenty-four merchant vessels, fourteen of which were from Pernambuco, and the remaining ten from Rio de Janeiro and Bahia.
[9]An edict has lately been issued at Rio de Janeiro by the Regent, declaring himself the Prince Regent of the United Kingdoms of Portugal, Brazil, and the Two Algarves. 1816.
[10]I saw, in the year 1814, a very fine root of wheat that had been raised in the Campina Grande of the province of Paraiba, about thirty leagues to the northward of Recife.
[11]This has lately been removed to Recife, owing to a report of some plan of revolt amongst the negroes, which has since proved to be without foundation. 1815.
[12]A Portugueze gentleman once observed to me, that in France and other countries many clever men had written and spoken strongly, and for a considerable length of time against this way of life, and that they at last even effected their purpose with much difficulty; but, he added, in Pernambuco such is the conduct of the friars, that no writing and no speaking is necessary to bring them into disrepute.
[13]“Irmam, não tenha vergonha.”
[14]In speaking of the Priesthood, it must be always recollected, that the Secular and Regular Clergy are two totally different bodies of men, and as distinct in their utility, their knowledge, and their manners, as they are in their situation in life.
[15]I think that the Caza Forte and the Cazas de Dona Anna Paes, of which an account is given in the History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 124, distinguish the same place under different names.
[16]When the Englishmen, who first established themselves at Recife, had finished the stock of tea which they had brought with them, they enquired where more could be purchased, and were directed to an apothecary’s shop. They went, and asked simply for tea, when the man wished to know what kind of tea they meant; he at last understood them, and said, “O, you want East-Indian tea,” “Cha da India,”—thus considering it as he would any other drug. But at the time of which I am now speaking, great quantities are consumed.
[17]I once heard, that a person who had been in England, and had returned to Pernambuco, observed, that the two things which surprised him the most in that country, were, that the people did not die, and that the children spoke English. He was asked his reason for supposing that his first wonder was correct, to which he answered, that he never had seen the Sacrament taken to the sick.
[18]AJuiz Conservador, Judge Conservator, of the British nation has been appointed for Pernambuco, but at the period of my departure from Recife, he was not arrived. Very soon after the commencement of a direct commercial intercourse with Great Britain, a vice-consul was appointed for Pernambuco, by the consul-general at Rio de Janeiro; this person was superseded by a consul sent out direct from England, who is subject to the consul-general of Brazil, but the place is disposed of by the government at home.
[19]When Brazil was in its infancy, the clergy could not subsist upon their tythes, and therefore petitioned the government of Portugal to pay them a certain stipend, and receive the tenths for its own account; this was accepted, but now that the tenths have increased in value twenty-fold, the government still pays to the vicars the same stipends. The clergy of the present day, bitterly complain of the agreement made by those to whom they have succeeded.
[20]A great confusion exists in Brazil respecting measures. Every captaincy has its own, agreeing neither with those of its neighbours, nor with the measures of Portugal, though the same names are used invariably: thus acanadaand analqueirein Pernambuco represent a much greater quantity than the same denominations in Portugal, and less than in some of the other provinces of Brazil.
[21]A patent has been obtained, and a manufactory established upon a large scale for making cordage from the outward rind of the coco-nut. Ropes of this description are, I believe, much used in the East Indies.
[22]An old woman applied at the gates of a convent, late one evening, and told the porter, an old friar, who was quite blind, that she wished one of the brothers to go with her, for the purpose of confessing a sick person. The old man, with perfect unconcern, gave her to understand, that they were all out, adding, “but if you will go to the garden gate, and wait there, some of them will soon be creeping in.”
[23]The younger members of the Franciscan order enjoy very much the duty of going out to beg, as opportunities offer of amusing themselves. A guardian was chosen at Paraiba some years ago, who examined the chest in which the money belonging to the community was kept, and on finding a considerable sum in it, gave orders that no one should go out to beg. He was a conscientious man, and said, that as they had already enough, the people must not be importuned for more, until what they possessed was finished. He kept the whole community within the walls of the convent for the term of two or three years, for which each guardian is appointed. On another occasion, the friars of a Franciscan convent chose for their guardian a young man, whose life had been very irregularly spent in any thing rather than the duties of his calling, under the idea, that during the continuance of his guardianship, they would lead a merry life,—that very little attention would be paid to the rules and regulations of the Order; but they were mistaken, he changed his habits as soon as he found himself at their head; the gates were rigidly closed at the proper hour, and according to the old and vulgar proverb, of “Set a thief,” &c. the duties of the convent were performed with much greater austerity than before.
[24]An anecdote was related to me of one of these couples, which occurred some years ago, under a former Governor. A solitary passenger, between Olinda and Recife, witnessed part of the following scene, and the remainder was described by one of the actors in it. A couple of criminals, of which one was a white man, and the other a negro, accompanied by their guard, were walking over the sands, to reach a ford, and cross the river at its narrowest part. Three horsemen, one of whom led a fourth horse, saddled and bridled, rode up, and one of them knocked the soldier down, whilst the white man of the chained couple urged his companion to go with him to the led horse, and mount up behind him: this the black man refused to do, when one of the horsemen, who seemed to direct the others, called out, “Cut the fellow’s leg off.” The criminals are secured to each other by the ankle. The negro now agreed, and both mounted the horse, and the whole party galloped away, first binding the soldier hand and foot. They passed through Olinda at full speed, and when they had arrived at some distance, a large file was made use of, and the negro was set down with all the chains and bolts. The party then proceeded, and were never afterwards heard of. It was imagined, that the man who made his escape in this manner, was the relation of a rich person in the interior, who had either committed some crime, or had been thus unjustly punished.
[25]Lately, a cadet has come forwards, and has taken the direction of these matters; he has apprehended several persons of infamous character, but of determined courage; he has done much good, risking his life under circumstances of great danger, and even to extreme rashness has he been carried by his zeal. This young man well deserves promotion. That thus the police should fall into the hands of inferior officers, shows the irregular footing upon which it stands.—1814.
[26]The arrival of another colonel to the regiment of Recife, and the increase of activity in the officers, has altered its appearance much for the better. The regiment of Olinda or of artillery, has been also much improved by the attention of its colonel, and the entrance into it of several well-educated Brazilian officers of the first families.
[27]The lower part of the town is the site of the siege, which, in its infancy, the settlement sustained against the savages, as is “related by Hans Stade, the first traveller who wrote any account of Brazil.”—History of Brazil, Vol. I. p. 46.
[28]I had frequent opportunities afterwards of resting at this inn; on one of these, I happened to ask for salt, which is not usually placed upon the table; the master of the house, in the customary familiar manner of the country, expressed his surprise, at the additional quantity of salt which I wished for, but it was brought to me, and nothing further was said. This occurred in the morning, soon after our arrival at the place; at dinner, to our dismay, the soup and almost all the other dishes were so plentifully supplied with the unfortunate ingredient, as to be scarcely eatable. We complained of this to the master, who answered, “Why, I thought you liked salt.” “Cuidei que eram amigos de sal.”
[29]Is this word abbreviated fromDesertam, used as an augmentative (according to the Portugueze custom) forDeserto?
[30]Matutos, woodmen, inhabitants of themato.
[31]A person with whom I was afterwards acquainted, has since cleared one of these islands, and has formed some salt-works upon it.
[32]The wordSertamis used rather indefinitely, as it does not only mean the interior of the country, but likewise a great part of the coast, of which the population is yet scanty, receives this general name. Thus, the whole of the country between Rio Grande and Pernaiba is called Sertam. Pernaiba is a small province, situated between Seara and Maranham.
[33]The rafts employed upon small rivers are of a construction similar to those already described on a former occasion, save that still less workmanship is bestowed upon them.
[34]History of Brazil, Vol. II. p. 104 and 155.
[35]The castor tree is known in Brazil under the same name; indeed, there is much similarity between the seed of this plant, from which the oil is extracted, and the larger kind of tick.
[36]Between two and three years after this journey, I heard again of my friend the Major. I became acquainted with a man who resided at the foot of the Serra do Teixeira, which is beyond the estates of the major’s father. The old colonel was killed by a bull before his own door. The animal had been driven into a small inclosure, and became mad from feeling himself confined. It was necessary to bring him to the ground, which is done in a peculiar manner, by running a short iron prong into a certain part of the thigh. The herdsmen were afraid, and wished to let the beast have time to cool and become less violent; the old man, who was between seventy and eighty years of age, told them, that if they were afraid, he would attack him, and immediately entered the inclosure; but before he could prepare to receive the bull, and was still leaning against the palings, the animal ran at him, and fixed his horns through the old man’s body, with sufficient force to run them into the palings, and in such a manner that before he could extricate himself, one of the herdsmen ran a long knife into his head between the horns, and brought him to the ground; but the old man lost his life.
[37]“Falla a lingua de negro.”
[38]Vide Appendix.
[39]“Deixa estar meu amo.”
[40]I heard in the beginning of the year 1815, that the bar had been completely choaked up during a violent gale of wind from the sea, whilst two coasters were in the river, taking in cargoes for Pernambuco.
[41]This person has since been removed to a province of more importance.
[42]“Mofino como caboclo.”
[43]I heard, from good authority, that there are two instances of Indians having been ordained as secular priests, and that both these individuals died from excessive drinking.
[44]Caboclo he so para hoje.
[45]Another member of this family was also to be apprehended, but the governor could not fix upon any means by which the arrest was to be accomplished. A man of well-known intrepidity and of some power was sent for by the governor, to consult with him upon the subject. This person offered to go alone, and acquaint the Feitoza with the orders that had been issued against him, and in fact to try to take him into custody. He set off, but Feitoza was apprized of his coming and of his errand, and, immediately leaving his estate, proceeded to Bahia, where he embarked for Lisbon, arriving in due time at that place. The person who set off to arrest him followed him from place to place, arrived at Bahia, and embarked for and landed at Lisbon. He enquired for Feitoza, heard that he had spoken to the secretary of state, and had again embarked on his return homewards, but that the ship was delayed by contrary winds.Helikewise went to the secretary, and shewed the orders which he had received for the arrest of Feitoza, making known the particular crimes which had made his apprehension requisite. Feitoza was taken into custody and put into the Limoeiro prison, where his persecutor or prosecutor went to visit him, saying as he approached,—“Well, did not I say so,”—“Entam eu que disse,” alluding to his determination of apprehending him. He returned to Brazil and gave an account of his mission to the governor, from whom he had received his orders. This man was well known in the province of Searà, and the truth of the story is vouched for by many respectable persons with whom I conversed. This Feitoza has not been heard of.
[46]Arruda says it is white, vide Appendix, therefore some other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw.
[47]Cabeça de Vaca is particularly mentioned.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 109.
[48]There is a print in Barlæus which represents the Portugueze crossing the river St. Francisco upon rafts or logs of timber; these must, I think, have been similar to those which are at present used in the Sertam.
[49]A mulatto woman once said to me, “The children of mulattos are like whelps, they are of all colours.” “Filho de mulatto, he como filho de cachorro, hum sahe branco, outro pardo e outro negro.”
[50]Dr. Manoel Arruda da Camara says, that before the dreadful drought of 1793, it was considered to be one of the duties of the herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that which was already half tamed, might not be induced to mix with it, and by this means become wild; and he adds, that this is still the case in the Sertoens of Piauhi. He published his pamphlets in 1810.
[51]When I resided at Jaguaribe, and upon the island of Itamaraca, in the years 1813 and 1814, I took some pains in this matter; but the meat was not good, and though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavour than that of the same species of animal in England, still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more unequal to the mutton of England, than is the case respecting the beef of the two countries.
[52]Lieutenant-Colonel Joam da Silva Feijò, in a pamphlet published at Rio de Janeiro in 1811, on the sheep of the province of Searà, says, “That the sheep of that part of the country bear wool which has all the marks of being of a superior quality; that it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of a good length, and strong.” He again says, “That the governor,” the same of whom I have spoken, “sent a small quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed.” I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Searà, and his opinion must of course be taken in preference to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the same province; however, I bought several as food, and their skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have above described. When I resided at Jaguaribe and Itamaraca, I possessed a considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak positively.
[53]Vaccination is finding its way among them in spite of prejudice.—1815.
[54]This branch of trade increases most rapidly.—1815.
[55]Vide Appendix for a further account of this wax.
[56]Vide Appendix for a further account of this plant.
[57]In the year 1813, I was one evening in company, when I heard a gentleman request one of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present, if any of them had ever left a horse upon his plantation. I turned round and recognised the colonel of Cunhàû. The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards.
[58]In the year 1812, I met Feliciano and one of the others, who was his brother-in-law, in one of the streets of Recife. They recollected me, and I was stopped by both of them getting hold of my coat on each side. They asked me if I was going again to travel, for if I was, they said that they were unemployed, and would go with me. Their attack had so much the appearance of being more in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that one or two of my acquaintance who chanced to pass at the time, stopped and enquired what was the matter, supposing that I had got into some scrape. These fellows literally held me fast, until I had answered all their questions. Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavourable character which I have given of the Indians; but unfortunately, individual instances prove very little.
[59]I had imagined that he did not intend to return again into my service; but on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him at the house of one of my friends, employed as a household servant, and I heard that he had come down to Recife two days after I had left the place, for the purpose of remaining with me; but as I was gone, he had entered into the service in which I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all the bad qualities of the Indians; and if I was again to travel in that country, I should use every endeavour to have him in company. He belonged to Alhandra.
[60]The information which is contained in this note I had from Captain Juan Roman Trivino, of the Spanish ship St. Joze, of 300 tons burthen. He received orders to proceed from Rio de Janeiro to Maranham, for the purpose of loading cotton, in the commencement of the year 1815. He arrived off the settlement of Searà, and sent on shore for a pilot to take him to St. Luiz; he was informed that none resided at Searà, but that he would find one at Jeriquaqùara, a high hill between Searà and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place, he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came on board, and offered to pilot him to St. Luiz. This was agreed to, and they proceeded; but from mistaking the two points of land in the manner mentioned above, the Indian took the vessel into the bay of St. Joze, on the 15th March. They kept the lead going, even before they discovered the error into which they had been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound to St. Luiz. The ship was brought to an anchor off the village of St. Joze, which is situated upon the N.E. point of the island of Maranham, in eleven fathoms water. Whilst they continued in the mid-channel of the bay, they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of water regularly decreases from the centre of the bay towards the land on each side; but it contains no insulated sand banks. The ship was at anchor off the village of St. Joze two days; they then proceeded through the channel, which is inclosed on either side by mangroves, and is so narrow in some parts that the yards at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair, and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five to two and a half fathoms; the bottom was of mud. About halfway through the channel, the tide from the bay of St. Joze and that from the bay of St. Marcos meet. This takes place nearly but not quite opposite to the mouth of the river Itapicuru. They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground at St. Joze to the island of Taua, which is situated near to the S. W. corner of the island of Maranham. Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the captain sent to St. Luiz for another pilot, as the man who had brought them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of the navigation. The island of Taua is rocky, and uninhabited, and is covered with palm trees. The village of St. Joze appeared to Captain Trivino to be of considerable size, but, with the exception of two or three, the houses were built of slight timber and of the leaves of different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen. He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there. Captain Trivino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicuru is at its mouth 120 yards wide, and that its depth is one fathom and a half.
[61]Joam IV. sent over one Bartholomew Barreiros de Ataide with three miners, one a Venetian and the other two French, to search for gold and silver. After two years’ search up the Amazons they returned to Maranham, and offered to supply the people with iron at acruzado, about 2s. 4d.,per quintal, 128 lbs. weight, if the state would engage to take all that they should produce at that price. The people were afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was so rich in this ore that foreign cosmographers called it theilha do ferroin their maps, and all who came there with any knowledge of the subject said that it was ore of the best quality. A thing of great importance to Portugal, which bought all its iron, and yet this discovery was neglected.—From a Memoir of Manoel Guedes Aranha, Procurador from Maranham, 1685, in the 6th Vol. Pinheiro Collection of MSS. in the possession of Mr. Southey.
A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the captaincy of St. Paulo, called “The Royal Fabric of S. Joam de Ypanema.” I obtained a knowledge of the fact from two letters in Nos. 45 and 56 of theInvestigador Portuguez, a periodical publication published in London. I am sorry to say, that the two letters to which I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the directors of the Fabric.
[62]I have just in time received the following statement of the exportation of cotton from Maranham, from the year 1809 to 1815:
[63]A person of the name of Belfort first planted rice at Maranham, and some of his descendants now reside there in opulence.
[64]“There were five sugar works or engines, as they are called, at Itapicuru, which compounded for 5000 arrobas of their produce. On the island there were six engines in full employ, 1641.”—History of Brazil, Vol.II, p. 9.
[65]He has been removed, was ordered to Lisbon, and ultimately, on his return to Rio de Janeiro, was refused admittance, for a short time, to the Prince Regent.
[66]It is not perhaps generally known, that there are published in London three or four Portugueze periodical works. One of them is prohibited in Brazil, and I have heard it said, that all of them are so situated; but they are principally intended for Brazilian readers, and they find their way all over the country, notwithstanding the prohibition. I have seen them in the hands of civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers, and have heard them publicly spoken of by them. It is said that the Regent reads them, and is occasionally pleased with their invectives against some of the men in power.
[67]About twelve months afterwards, I had an opportunity of being personally known to this man, and found him to be very superior to any individual of his or any other order of friars with whom I have been acquainted.
[68]A British consul has since been appointed to Maranham.
[69]Anouvidorhas been appointed to Aldeas Altas, and Piauhi has been raised to the rank of an independent provincial government. These are improvements which shew that regular government is gaining ground.
[70]Before I came away in 1815, a considerable portion of the sand (which was covered by the tide at high water) between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, had been raised, and houses had been built upon it. The principal street of St. Antonio has been paved. The bridge of Boa Vista has been rebuilt of timber; and that between St. Antonio and Recife was about to undergo considerable repair. The hospitals, likewise, were to be improved; and as I have heard since my arrival in England, of the appointment of a most worthy man to the direction of one of them, I trust that this intention has been acted upon.
[71]Vide Appendix.
[72]Bolingbroke says, that instances are frequent of some of the European swine escaping into the woods, where they live wild; and he adds, that their increase has been immense. In another place he speaks of a species of this animal, which is peculiar to tropical America, and is called the warree which he says is about the size of an European hog, and much like it in shape. Theporco do matois not thesus tajassu, which is, I imagine, what Bolingbroke calls the picaree hog.—Voyage to the Demerary, &c. by Henry Bolingbroke, in Phillips’ Collection of Modern Voyages, vol. x. p. 57 and 129.
The tajaçu is to be met with at Maranham, but is not known at Pernambuco.
[73]Directions were given by thecapitam-mor, that a reservoir for rain water should be formed; and these have been carried into effect. 1815.
[74]The Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday are properly the days of theintrudo, but the sport is, as in the case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time. Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium is preserved, and every thing is taken up heedlessly and thrown about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty, whether it may do mischief or is harmless.
[75]The account which Labat gives ofl’arbre à Savonettesdoes not agree in all points with mine; the difference may arise from various circumstances to which some clew might have been discovered, if attention had been paid to the subject upon the spot. He says that the leaves are three inches in length, and “cet arbre est un de plus gros, des plus grands et des meilleurs qui croissent aux isles.”—Nouveau Voyage, &c.Tom. vii. p. 383. Du Tertre says, that it growsen abondance le long de la mer; dans les lieux les plus secs et les plus arides.—Histoire des Antilles, &c.Tom. ii. p. 165. I have only heard of the Saboeiro at some distance from the coast.
[76]Limoeiro was raised to a township by an Alvará issued from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th July, 1811; but this was not then known. It has now a mayor, municipality, andcapitam-mor.
[77]This place was erected a township by the same Alvará, which was issued respecting Limoeiro; and by the same, the villages of Cape St. Augustin and of St. Antam were likewise raised to the rank of towns; a sure sign is this of the increase of population.
[78]This village is as much or more generally known by the name of Lagoa d’Anta, as by that of Nazareth; but the latter is the name which it bears in law. The former name, which means the Lake of the Anta, seems to denote that that animal was known in this part of the country; but in the present day, I could not meet with any of the peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify.
[79]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.
[80]History of Brazil, Vol. i. p. 467 and 468.
[81]History of Brazil, Vol. ii. p. 237.
[82]“Senhora nam, he o Diabo.”
[83]“Que diz, meu amo?”
[84]“Ave-Maria, Nosso Senhor nos livre.”
[85]These practices were, or rather are, at present, carried on in one part of the country with which I am well acquainted. The persons who commit the crimes are white men and of high birth. Among them was a priest. The magistrate of the district in question was applied to by a man who had lost a cow, mentioning that he more than suspected where she was, and at the same time naming the place. Atropa, a troop or party, ofordenençasoldiers was collected, and these men were dispatched to search the house, which had been pointed out, under the command of a corporal of well-known courage. They arrived there and knocked; the door was opened by the owner, who was the priest connected with the gang; he said that he could not allow his house to be entered without an order from the ecclesiastical court. This answer was conveyed to the magistrate who had signed the order, the soldiers remaining round about the house. A second order arrived, and the bearer brought with him a couple of hatchets, thus expressively pointing out to the corporal what he was to do. Forthwith preparations were made for breaking open the door, when the priest said, that he would allow the corporal to enter alone; the man fearlessly went in, but as soon as the door was again closed the priest seized upon him, and some of his negroes who were in another apartment sprang forwards to assist their master; but the corporal disengaged himself, and standing upon the defensive called to his men, who soon broke into the house. Search was made, and the carcase and hide of the cow were found, and were with the negroes taken publicly to the nearest town. The mark of the red hot iron upon the haunch had been burnt out of the hide, that discovery might be rendered less easy. The priest was punished by suspension from saying mass for a few months. I was subsequently acquainted with him; he was received by many persons as if nothing had been amiss; but he was not received as heretofore, for the individuals of his own profession would not, generally speaking, associate with him. The circumstance had not however so completely prevented his re-entrance into decent society, as such a crime would have done in many others countries, or so much as would have occurred at Pernambuco, if he had been a layman.
[86]A free negro, with whom I had been acquainted whilst I resided at this place, and who came to see me when I removed to Itamaraca, told me, with much horror pictured in his countenance, of the fate of a man who had worked for me. He said that this person occasionally became alobos homem, a wolf man. I asked him to explain, when he said that the man was at times transformed into an animal of the size of a calf, with the figure of a dog; that he left his home at midnight in this metamorphosed state, and ran about with the violence of a mad dog, and that he attacked any one whom he might chance to meet. The black man was perfectly persuaded of the correctness of his own statement, when he related having, with his brother-in-law and his sister, met this uncommon beast, near to their own cottages. I suppose it was some large dog which prowled about to satisfy his hunger in the neighbourhood of these habitations; but no, the man was persuaded that it was poor Miguel.
[87]On Saturdays only, throughout the country, are cattle slaughtered; and thus weekly many persons of each neighbourhood assemble, as much to converse and hear the news as to purchase their portion of meat. On one of these occasions, a young man of colour was stooping to arrange upon the end of his walking stick the meat which he had bought, at the moment that a person of considerable power was riding up. The man of importance, when he came near to the young mulatto, struck him with a long cane with which he rode, saying “why don’t you take off your hat when a white man appears?” The blow was felt severely, and still more severely answered. The man of colour drew his knife, and quickly turning round, ran it hilt deep into the groin of him by whom he had been insulted; and then with the bloody knife in his hand, he ran off, vowing destruction upon any one who touched him. The rich man had only time before he died, to direct that the murderer should not be pursued, owning that his own impetuous tyranny had deservedly produced this catastrophe. The young man returned in a few weeks to his former home, and was not molested by the relatives of him whom he had murdered, nor did the law take cognizance of the deed.
[88]The following anecdote exemplifies the feudal state of the planters a few years ago. It was related to me by a gentleman upon whose veracity I have every reason to rely. Some fifteen years ago, the governor of Pernambuco sent for a sergeant of the only regiment of the line which existed at that time, whose courage was well known and much dreaded. He received orders from the governor to proceed with all expedition possible to the sugar-plantation of Monjope, distant from Recife four leagues, for the purpose of taking the owner of that place into custody; or if he found that his apprehension alive was impracticable, he was then to bring his head to the governor. The sergeant was desired to pick out as many soldiers as he thought fit to accompany him; but he said that he should go alone, and consequently the following morning he set forth. On his arrival at Monjope, he was received by the owner of the plantation, who was a colonel of militia, or acapitam-mor. Being seated, he quietly made his errand known, shewing to the great man the order for his apprehension, and mentioning the additional instructions in case of disobedience. The colonel left the room, but soon returned with a bag containing about the value of 100l.in gold coins, and presenting this to the sergeant, told him to return and tell the governor that he would visit him as soon as possible, and explain to him the circumstances which had given rise to this mission. The sergeant took the money, and set out on his return; and by the way bought a sheep, killed it, and then cutting off its head, put this into a bag. On arriving at the palace, he placed his bloody burthen upon the ground, and pointing to it, said to the governor, “I have executed your commands; he would not come, and therefore I have brought his head.” The governor, all amazement, answered, “and have you really killed the colonel of Monjope?” The sergeant replied, “I have only acted according to the orders which I received.” The following morning, what was the astonishment of the governor, to hear that the colonel of Monjope was in waiting, and wished to see him. He gave him an audience, matters were explained, and they parted good friends. The sergeant was sent for after the departure of the colonel, and on being questioned, told the whole story, and shewed the bag of money. The governor was displeased, but at the same time ashamed of the rash orders which he had given. The sergeant was however too useful a man to be in disgrace.
[89]Slaves are permitted to purchase their own freedom, on tendering to the master the sum of money which he originally gave for them. But I shall presently speak more at large of this law and of slavery, as it exists in Brazil.
[90]Vide Appendix for a farther account of the coco-tree.
[91]An old Portugueze, whose faith in the intercession of saints could not be very strong, being asked for alms to assist in the decoration of an image, refused to give any thing, and added, “The saints are in a much better situation than I am; they don’t want any assistance from me.”
[92]I insert the following passage from No. 32d. of Dr. Thomson’s Annals of Philosophy, p. 138. It is given for the purpose of acquainting the supporters of our Lady of the O, that salt oozes from walls in an heretical, as well as in a Catholic country:
“The formation of nitre upon calcareous stones in certain situations has been long known, and advantage has been taken of it to procure that important salt in great quantities; though no satisfactory theory of the formation of the salt itself has yet been offered to the public. The present paper contains a set of observations on the appearance of an efflorescence of salt-petre on the walls of the Ashmole laboratory at Oxford, a large ground room, sunk below the area of the street. The walls are built of Oxford lime-stone, a granular floetz lime-stone, containing many fragments of shells, of vegetable bodies, and composed of 96 carbonate of lime, and 4 of ochrey sand. The salt formed was nearly pure, though it contained traces of lime and of sulphuric and muriatic acids. What was formed in winter contained most lime. The formation of this salt was most rapid in frosty weather; it formed slowly, and the quantity even diminished in moist weather after it had been deposited. Exclusion from the air did not preclude the deposition of the salt, though it diminished it considerably.” p. 70.—The paper, of which the above is an analysis, is by John Kidd, M.D. professor of chemistry in Oxford.
[93]Some time ago a wooden figure was brought up out of the sea in a fisherman’s net; it was deposited in a place of safety, and was on inspection, by some person who was judged competent to decide upon the subject, declared to be an image of St. Luke; it was removed to a church, and has taken its place as a representative of that saint. Now, I have heard it whispered, that this said St. Luke is no more than the figure-head of some unfortunate vessel which had been cast away, or that the figure had been broken off by a violent wave.
[94]I am not certain of the situation of the Monte das Tabocas, where one of the chief battles was fought between the Portugueze and the Dutch in 1645.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 108. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family; but as I was acquainted with him and several other persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would have been mentioned, if this had been the place.
[95]At the distance of twenty leagues or more from Recife, there resided formerly the Padre Pedro, upon the sugar plantation of Agua Azul, or the blue water. He had obtained a grant from the Crown, of the surrounding lands, of one square league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a high hill, the summit of which was only to be reached by a serpentine road which he had made with great labour. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill, and the field around the eminence was inclosed by a deep and broad ditch, and a thick hedge on the outside. The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in a very wild state; the woods were extensive, and almost impenetrable. The disposition of the priest was as wild as the country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from the regiments of the line, and all persons who had committed crimes in supporting the insulted honour of their families, in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion, were received by him; but he did not afford protection to the thief. The fellows who were harboured by him inhabited the woods around the field, and some of them had erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus forming a line of communication; so that with a whistle or a conch, soon were assembled at his door forty or fifty men, who were prepared to perform any service of whatever description he might name; because they well knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his aid would be given in the law’s support. To injure the priest or any of his satellites, was followed by destruction to the offending person. He was, however, in the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings; for although the government might not be able to destroy his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power. The priest was once sent for by a late governor of the province; he obeyed, and brought with him a considerable number of his determined followers; he dismounted, and ascended the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people, who remained below, that no person should be permitted to enter after him. The governor complained to him of his avowed practice of harbouring deserters; to which the priest replied, that he thought his Excellency was aware of the inutility of speaking to him upon that subject; and having said this he immediately left the room, mounted his horse, and proceeded homewards without molestation.
Another anecdote of this strange man was communicated to me by a person who had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs, arrived at Agua Azul, and served a writ for debt upon him; the priest received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards he ordered some of his people to take these two men and harness them in the mill (which was then at work) in the places of two of the horses, (eight of these are employed at the same time). He then ordered that the works should go on, and that a negro boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist in its movement; there they remained for some minutes, until half dead with fatigue and fear, he turned them loose, and told them to relate to their employer the manner in which they had been treated, threatening to do the same to him, if he could obtain possession of his person. The priest had a considerable number of blood hounds, which were usually unchained, and were lying about the house; thus rendering dangerous an approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained, for a call from their master was sufficient to make them lie still, and allow of the advance of a stranger. This person died only a few years ago; but as I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters in Brazil is fast going by.
[96]“Zacharias nam he ninguem.”
[97]Labat, in speaking of the Indians of Guyana, says, “Leurs plus grandes richesses consistent dans les colliers de pierres vertes qui leur viennent de la riviére des Amazones. C’est un limon qu’on peche dans le fond de quelques endroits de ce grand fleuve.” He continues his description of them, and then says, “ces pierres sont spécifiques pour guêrir l’épilepsie ou le mal caduc, ou du moins pour en ôter et suspendre tous les accidens tout autant de tems qu’on les porte sur soi, et qu’elles touchent la peau.”—Voyage du Chevalier des Marchais en Guinée, isles voisines et a Cayenne, tom. iv. p. 65 and 66.
The lower orders in Brazil make use of an iron ring round the wrist for this purpose.
I was informed that theContas Verdescame from Africa, but some may have found their way from the Orellana, and been put into requisition by theMandingueiros.
I refer the reader to the History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 607, for a farther account of the green stones of the Amazons.
[98]A man of large property being much provoked at some outrage which had been committed by one of theseValentoens, (who was a white man,) had said at his own home, that when he met the man he would horsewhip him. This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they met accidentally in one of the narrow-paths in the neighbourhood. TheValentamwas well-armed with musket, sword, and knife; he requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him. The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore set spurs to his horse, but the road was without any bend for some distance; theValentamknelt down upon one knee, and fired with the effect which he wished for. He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the whole story of his meeting, at the first village through which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried, and hanged at Bahia, through the very great exertions of the brother of the person whom he had murdered. He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance from Jaguaribe, about fifteen years ago.
[99]Labat speaks of a tree, of which the fruit is a perfect cure for the bite of the most dangerous snakes. He says that it comes from the isthmus of Darien; that the buccaniers were informed of its virtue by the Indians who accompanied them in their expeditions across the isthmus. He does not give the name of the tree; but says “sans nous embarasser du nom de l’arbre nous nous contentons d’appeller son fruit noix de serpent.” In his time there were three of these trees at Martinique, which were of the size of apricot trees in France. He says that he witnessed the success of the fruit. The account of the plant and its virtues is too long to be inserted here. It is to be found in theNouveau Voyage aux isles de l’Amerique, tom. iii. p. 234 to 238.
In the same work, I find the following manner of cure from the bite of a snake, which will not however be very generally adopted. “Ceux qui ont assez de courage ou de charité pour s’exposer a faire cette cure se gargarisent bien la bouche avec de l’eau-de-vie; et après avoir scarifié la place, ils la succent de toute leur force, ils rejettent de tems en tems ce qu’ils ont dans la bouche, et se la nettoyent et gargarisent à chaque fois, observant de presser fortement avec les deux mains les environs de la partie blessée. On a vú de trés bons effets de cette cure, mais elle est trés-dangereuse pour celui qui la fait; car s’il a la moindre ecorchûre dans la bouche, ou qu’il avale tant soit peu de ce qu’il retire, il peut s’attendre à mourir en peu de momens, sans que toute la medecine le puisse sauver.” tom. i. p. 167.
[100]In the year 1630, the island contained three and twenty sugar works.—History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.
[101]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 36.
[102]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 476.
[103]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 489.
[104]History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 540.
[105]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 143.
[106]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 176.
[107]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.
[108]History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 241.
[109]“Porque o seu coracam assim manda.”
[110]One of these Indians was selling crabs at Pasmado, when a purchaser began to pick out those which he preferred; but the Indian stopped him, saying, “Don’t begin to pick my crabs, for I belong to Amparo.” Thus even the crabs which were caught by the dependants of this great man were to be respected.
[111]The dependants do not always shew the respect which, seemingly, they ought to render to their patron. One of the Indians of Amparo (not he of the crabs) met his master, the owner of the place, in the field near to the dwelling-house. The Indian took off his own hat to speak to his master, but the same was not done by his superior; however the fellow quickly performed this for him, saying “When you speak to people take off your hat.”—“Quando se falla a gente tira se o chapeo.” The master took this quietly and when the conversation ended, his hat was returned.
[112]Vide Appendix.
[113]I do not know whether I might not almost say of Brazil: Regarding Itamaraca, there exists the following adage, “What is it that persecutes thee island?” The answer is “The being an island, the ants and Guedes.” “Que te persegue ilha? Ilha, formiga, Guedes.” Or in other words, the inconvenience occasioned by being obliged to cross the channel from the main land; the ants, which sufficiently explain for themselves; and Guedes;—these were a family of unquiet spirits who resided in the island, and kept it in perpetual turbulence from their quarrels. The remains still exist; but now they are good and peaceable subjects.
[114]“Agora Senhor Rei, vai te embora.”
[115]In 1646, after the Portugueze had taken possession of the guard-ship at Os Marcos, they proceeded to that which was stationed at Itapisuma or Tapissuma, and this was burnt by the Dutch.—History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 177.
[116]A man of colour with whom I was acquainted possessed several tame oxen, some of which with a cart he used to hire to the planters by the day, and one or other of his sons attended to drive them. Two of these animals were stolen, and a suspicion falling upon a man of reputed respectability in the country, who had rented a sugar plantation not far distant, one of the sons of the owner of the oxen determined to try to ascertain the fact. He dressed himself in leather, as a disguise, and rode to the dwelling of the person in question, where he arrived at dusk. The master of the house was not at home, but he spoke to the housekeeper, saying, that he had just arrived from the Sertam with cattle on sale, which would reach the neighbourhood on the following morning; he requested to know if she thought her master would purchase his drove. She answered in the affirmative, but said that he had better stay all night, for the purpose of seeing the intended purchaser, who would arrive on the next day. The false Sertanejo told her not to be uneasy about his accommodation, as he would sleep in the mill, to which he rode, and there he remained very quietly during the early part of the night. When all was still he began to search for the hides or horns of his oxen. The former would be recognised by the private mark, which was made (as is usual) with a red-hot iron upon the right haunch, and the latter he would know from the peculiar bore of their tips (by which they are in part harnessed to the cart) for he had bored them himself, and was in the constant habit of driving these oxen; besides, tame oxen are so seldom killed, that if he found any horns which were bored, he might presume that they were those of his beasts. He had given up his search, and almost all hope of finding what he sought, when, as he lay in his hammock, he happened to cast his eyes upwards, and saw two fresh out-stretched hides hanging to the higher wood-work of the mill. He scrambled up the timbers with a lighted piece of wood in one hand; and moving this to and fro near to the hides, that it might give a better light, he discovered that they bore his father’s mark. He lost no time in cutting from both of them the pieces which contained the mark, and carefully preserving these he mounted his horse about two o’clock in the morning and rode home. He kept the bits of leather as trophies, and shewed them in proof of his former assertions respecting the person who had stolen the oxen, but neither did he obtain, nor did he expect to obtain any redress. These transactions occurred in 1811, and within five leagues of Recife.