CHAPTER II.

The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant—Presents—Names of Caboceer, &c.—Granite Mountains—Tanks—The Aditay—Soil—The Tawee—Mountains—Grain and Vegetables—The Zoglogbo Mountain—Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo—Ascent of the Mountain—Cotton-trees—Mountain-pass—Singular Situation of the Town—Houses—Dahoman Political Agent—Probable Origin of the Mountain—Kpaloko Mountain—Ignorance, assumed or real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives—The Dabadab Mountains—Superstition—Singular Method of conveying Cattle—Cruelty to the Brute Creation—Difficult Descent—Agriculture and Manufactures—Height of the Mountains—Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Reception at Baffo—Costume of Caboceer and his Wife—His Principal Wives—Beautiful Birds—Gigantic Trees—Parasitical Plants—Singular Tree—Soil—Grain, Fruits, &c.—Cattle—Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer—Goods exposed for Sale—Rival Caboceers—Game—Pigeon-trap—Trial of Skill—Dog poisoned—Increasing Illness of my Servant—The Caboceer’s principal Cook.

Sunday, July 13th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again sent me plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great kindness to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him to partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of mealand water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself.

After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town, where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer’s household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book. This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I readily acceded; and in a short timehad all their names registered in my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given by the caboceer’s principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me; but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure from the town of Paweea.

I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:—

The names of Mayho’s traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people with provisions and peto at Paweea[3]were:—

Tossau.Yakie.Bowka.Adassie.Howta.Kossau.Nookodoo.

We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay. Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native manufacture.

About nineA.M.we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and at one mileN.35°E.I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E.and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea. The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the softerparts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.

At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream, capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing changed toE.N.E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.

At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude, and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearingN.35°W.The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in the Dahomanand Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.

At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue. He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high, and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within about five yards of the place where I was seated,by the side of the caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he, together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves, throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same. My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie seemed very fond.

We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time, and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountainwalked in front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as occasion required.

After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches, strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own families. Indeed, as I havealready observed, they work together in cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment.

The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey, although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present government and new laws.

After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities of provision were brought for us, and as usual readycooked. Being rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto.

It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard, I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up, and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night.

July 14th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.E.extreme of a range of mountains running N.E.and S.W.and is the highest of that range. The grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull hadbeen carried up into the mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of different shrubs and stunted trees.

After examining the town we went to the highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo, where we obtained a very pleasant view of the surrounding country. At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is seen the beautiful and gigantic block of granite, two thousand five hundred feet high, named Kpaloko; and as far as the eye can reach to the eastward are three mountains of a conical form, all of which are of the same shape and height. I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains, but he denied all knowledge of them, either by name or otherwise. I then asked several of my soldiers, from whom I received a similar reply. It seemed to me very singular, that a man should live during his whole life so near any remarkable spot without knowing something of the place, or even its name; but from a communication I received from a Mahomedan priest at Abomey, I was convinced that the distant mountains were the Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of their shape to a dumpling made from the Indian corn-meal so called. After measuring the heightby the boiling-point thermometer, we descended the rock, which was quite smooth on the slope, so that it would be impossible for any person to keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend Kpatchie paid every attention to me, both during my ascent and descent, ordering one of his principal attendants to take one of my arms, while he himself took the other.

The people here are, like all other Africans, very superstitious. When I was taking the bearings of the different mountains, and measuring the distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the King had given orders that I was to be permitted to use my own discretion in all things, it was useless to object to anything I thought proper to do. After descending this steep mountain, we visited the principal market-place, where the caboceer had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought; one of them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and the other was presented to myself; and the old caboceer forwarded both animals all the way to Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The manner in which they carry cattle is singular. They tie the feet of the animal together, and run a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry the poor animals with their backs downwards, each end of the pole resting on the head of the carriers.Six men are generally appointed to carry one bullock, who relieve one another in turns. It would seem impossible, to those unacquainted with African cattle, for two men to carry one bullock; but it must be remembered that the African ox is very small in comparison with English oxen.

The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the lower animals. They throw the animal down when they get tired, with its back on the rough gravel, so that if they have a long journey to perform, the flesh is cut to the bone, and the death of the poor animal often ensues from such usage.

After we had received the presents from the caboceer, several of the merchants from Abomey presented me with goats and fowls, which kindness I of course acknowledged by making presents of some trifling articles of European manufacture. We now got ourselves ready for our march to the town of Baffo, which is only a few miles distant; my excellent old friend, Kpatchie, and his whole retinue, with a guard of honour, accompanying me.

Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite side of the mountain to that which we had ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my friend kept close to me, rendering me every requisite assistance in our perilous descent. At thefoot of the mountain we entered another town of considerable size. Here I found my horse, which had been brought round to be in readiness for me. I remained some time in this town to ascertain their system of agriculture and their manufactures, which I found superior to any thing nearer the coast, except in Abomey and in Whydah. They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats, baskets, and a curious sort of girdle composed of different-coloured grasses, neatly fringed at each end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are also manufactured here in a superior style, as likewise earthen pots and pipes.

The northernmost of the four conical mountains I have mentioned measures from the top of Kpaloko 18° 7ʹ towards N.E.when the observer is placed on the N.E.end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears N.E., distant by observation from Zoglogbo 12°, and the back bearing of Gbowelley S.E.Zoglogbo is much famed in the Mahee country for having been the place of refuge for three moons of three kings, who led their combined armies to the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the Dahoman army, commanded by the King, who destroyed the whole of the combined armies of the kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and akingdom in the Mahee country in the adjoining Mountains of Kong.

These three kings declared war against the King of Dahomey, and threatened also to make his head a balance to a distaff; but the army of Dahomey, being well armed with muskets, although much inferior in numbers, totally destroyed the combined armies; and the three kings fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army followed them, and blockaded the passes, so that all supplies were entirely cut off, and in three moons the whole were compelled to surrender at discretion. These three kings were beheaded, and their heads used for a similar purpose to that which they had threatened the King of Dahomey with.

The head man of this town is Kpatchie’s principal attendant. Kpatchie is caboceer, or king, of all the towns and krooms in and round the mountain of Zoglogbo. The principal men’s names in Zoglogbo are as follows:—

1. Kpatchie.[4]2. Bleedjado.3. Annagoonoo.4. Dawie.5. Dyenyho.6. Dosou say Footoh.7. Zayso avarahoo.8. Bayo Bozway.9. Dogano.[5]10. Mapossay.[6]11. Awenoo.[7]12. Bokava.13. Dogwhay, the Caboceer’s wife.14. Adoo, the Caboceer’s son.

12P.M.—We now continued our march from this town to Baffo, bearing west from this place, and at three miles and a half arrived there. We were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo and his principal wife, attended by a guard of honour, some of whom were armed with bows and arrows, and others with muskets, with which they kept up a constant irregular fire the whole of the way as we passed along. The caboceer and his wife were covered with ornaments, principally of cowries, fixed to leather, made of goatskin, and coloured blue and red, and about the width of the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were equipped similar to our Hussar officers’ horses. This caboceer is a very quick, active, and shrewd man; proud and foppish, moreover, and very jealous of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accompanied me to Baffo.

Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were, as usual, supplied with provision, ready cooked, to the amount of eighty dishes, composed of goats, pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the caboceer’s principal wives, who drank each a glass of rum with us. This is customary with all visitors of note or rank, but they always drink water with each other first. My old friend Kpatchie remained with me till he got intoxicated,when I advised him to return home, which recommendation he immediately adopted.

In the evening I went out to observe the neighbourhood of the town, taking my gun with me, when, just after passing through the gates, a crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused great amusement, as the natives of this place are not expert with the gun. The crows are very large here, but of the same colour as the smaller ones on the coast, black, with white breast. In this place I observed several beautiful birds, many of which were on their passage, for nearly all the tropical birds of Africa are migratory.

We visited another small town, about half a mile west of Baffo, very pleasantly situated at the foot of the steep mountain of Logbo, the rocks of which at a short distance appear to hang over the town. The town of Baffo is similarly situated, and is ornamented with a great variety of trees of gigantic size. The highest of these are the silk cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash are also abundant here. The acacias are very large, and at this season in full blossom. Many beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large trees and rocks; and the clematis and jessamine fill the air with their luxurious odour. A tree resembling the drooping ash is very abundant,bearing a very delicious fruit, like a yellow plum, which hang in bunches very similar to the grape. The fruit is very delicious, though there is very little flesh on the stone, which is porous, and yields to the bite of the teeth like a piece of cork, but is considerably harder.

This is the first place in which I have yet been, since my journey commenced, which reminds me of my native country. Here, for the first time the large branches of the different trees are in gentle motion, caused by the considerable current of air or light wind passing along the steep mountain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what is nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by the suffocating, heated atmosphere, where no motion is perceptible except during a tornado. I cannot express with what satisfaction and delight I sat me down on the end of a ruined wall of a hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for many months been a stranger. Here solitude and loneliness even were pleasing. In my lonely reverie, my recollections were carried unimpeded over wastes of waters back to my native land, and perhaps to happier days, before Care had ploughed her furrows on my brow.

Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I could not help thinking how much gratificationI should have felt had any of my old friends and associates in England been present, to whom I might have expressed my gratification. My poor servant Maurice was now getting worse, and obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at Baffo.

I found the land well cultivated, and the crops very luxuriant. The Indian corn here produces a crop four times in the year; the Guinea corn, twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are also abundant; tamarinds of two different species, the velvet tamarind and long pod, both grow in abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour, and green grapes are also plentiful. There are two species of cashu with fruit, much larger than I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abundant here, as also several species of the under-ground nut, some about the size of a walnut.

Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very square and clean in the legs, but very small. Sheep and goats are considerably more numerous than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in this part of the country, consequently the natives were very timid in approaching my animal. The country around is well watered by some considerable streams, which run eastward. The waters are of different qualities, some streamsbeing impregnated with iron, others with magnesia. Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys.

After two hours’ range in the neighbourhood of these two towns, I returned with my party and found the caboceer of the town awaiting us. He was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents of my liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but scantily stored, as far as regards variety, but I had plenty of the common American trade rum, which I brought with me from the coast. This is the only drink used by the natives, excepting peto.

I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two, which he seemed to relish very much. He seemed extremely anxious to excel in politeness; but he assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me to him as an honest man. However, I spent the evening tolerably comfortable till a late hour, when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very ill, although the fever was subdued, but now diarrhœa succeeded, and his spirits were very low; I, therefore, made up my mind to remain a day or two till I should see whether any alteration took place in him.

July 15th.—Early in the morning the caboceer came to pay his morning compliments and to drink a glass of rum previous to sending me breakfast. The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being theprincipal market-day in Baffo; and he is allowed still to maintain an ancient custom, which existed here previous to the subjection of the Mahee country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the place to himself. In consequence of this, he was busily employed in watching his young wives, who kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-place, many of whom I believe possessed very little personal interest in their divided spouse’s profits, but, in order to render theft impracticable, he placed all his youngest wives in the most conspicuous parts of the market-place, and himself occupied a position which commanded a view of the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy wives were permitted to use their own discretion as to their choice of carrying their goods round the different parts of the town. The principal or favourite wives dole out the portions of goods allotted to each individual to sell, but it often occurs that they are sold at even a higher price than designed by the owner, particularly when strangers are the purchasers. Of course the extra charge is appropriated by the individual seller.

The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception of European manufactured goods: these, however,are very limited, tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey.

About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so that high words ensued.

Although no preparation was made for ourdinner, for I had remained at Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises, as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which Baffo is situated.

A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it, it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfymyself with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport.

Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species, some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age. Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other, except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant, but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter, and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons.

A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to make it appear that hehad shot it, destroyed part of the head before presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion, as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball, he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing. I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree, which created some considerablesurprise amongst the soldiers who accompanied me.

Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground, apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I left Whydah.

Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed, therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now suffering muchfrom dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of terminating fatally.

In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum, for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning. The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye, though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain of my guard was present.

FOOTNOTES:[2]I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for his surname.[3]The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.[4]Caboceer.[5]Brother to the caboceer.[6]Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.[7]Second in command of the soldiers.

[2]I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for his surname.

[3]The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.

[4]Caboceer.

[5]Brother to the caboceer.

[6]Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.

[7]Second in command of the soldiers.

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