CHAPTER III.

The River Loto—Jokao Mountain—Jetta—Reception by the Caboceer—Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko—Its curious Formation—Its former Importance on account of its Manufactures—Desolating Effects of War—Attachment of the Natives to particular Spots—Natural Tanks in the Mountains—Mount Koliko—Precipitous Granite Rock—Similarity to Scottish Scenery—The Nanamie—Laow, and the Laow Mountain—Kossieklanan Cascade—Tamargee Mountains—Mineral Spring—Mount Koglo—Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer—Whagba—Caboceer’s Hospitality—The Town—Inhabitants—Kindness of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo—War-Dance—Drunkenness—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Game—Curious Pigeons—An Incident—Absurd Notion—Departure from Whagba—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow and Massey—Beautiful Valley—Impregnable Position—The Caboceer of Kpaloko—Grandeur of the Scene—Jeka Houssoo—The Dabadab Mountains—Difficulty in obtaining Information—Resolve to leave my Attendants—My Scheme—Departure—Zafoora—Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants, &c.—Shea-Butter used for Lamps.

July 18th.—Early in the morning we got ready for our march to Whagba. I found my old friend Kpatchie waiting with an extra guard of one hundred men, and to my surprise found a number of the Baffo soldiers ready to escort me some distance from the town. We marched out with the band playing one of the favourite Dahomanairs, which seemed to me to have more of discord than music about it. On passing the gates, the path bears NN.E.across a level plain. After two miles we crossed the river Loto, a fine clear stream, running east; and at two miles and a half, and one hundred yards to the right of the path, a spot was pointed out to me where the King of Dahomey and his army had encamped for the space of three months, during the war with the King of Kpaloko, who, after a siege which lasted all that time, was compelled to surrender at discretion.

The plain here is well cultivated. Bearing eastward, about eight miles distant, the mountain of Jokao is seen; and on the left, about two miles and a half distant, is a large town, named Jetta, situated on a mountain of that name. At three miles and a half we were met by the caboceer of Jetta. We found him and his soldiers awaiting our arrival in a market-place, through which we had to pass. This market-place, like nearly all others, is shaded with large trees. The caboceer received us with great courtesy, his guard keeping up an irregular fire of musketry. After the usual compliments between both parties, we were presented with plenty of provisions brought from their own town. Having refreshed ourselves,I presented the caboceer and several of his head men with some trifling articles of hardware. Jetta is between the two mountains, Jetta and Kpaloko. The longitudinal form of these mountains is north and south.

At four miles, the path changing to east, we crossed a fine brook, named Awadakoo, the small tributary streams of which were strongly impregnated with iron. In the valley we found numerous blocks of pebbles combined together with iron. At five miles we passed through the ruins of the ancient town of Kpaloko, where the King was killed, as well as the King of Eyo, who succeeded the former king of that country, who had brought his army to the plains of Paweea, where his army was destroyed, as I have before mentioned. Kpaloko is of very curious formation, being nearly perpendicular at the sides, and the top like an acute arch. This mountain seems formed of a succession of concave scales, varying in thickness from twenty to thirty feet, and placed one upon another. These scales are formed of very hard granite of large grain. Several of these scales had parted near the centre of the top longitudinally, and slipped from their position down the side of the mountain, resting with their lower edges on the ground, and forming buttresses of five hundred feet long, and seventy feet high, leaving a space of about forty-eightfeet from the foot of the mountain, or block, to the foot of the buttress.

On examining the ruins of this large town, I found not one hut left standing, showing the sad and desolating effects of war. This place had once the character of being the greatest manufacturing town in the kingdom of Mahee, extending her commerce through nearly the whole of that country, as well as that of Annagoo. Now all was silent as death—not a note or flutter even of any thing of the winged tribe was heard. The intense heat of the sun, without a breath of air, rendered the scene truly mournful and solitary. I could not help reflecting upon the natural attachment of the natives to particular spots, for although this town had been destroyed for years, the surviving natives still cultivated the gardens and the land formerly occupied by their ancestors and relatives. This circumstance is, however, little to be wondered at, for each house is invariably the family sepulchre.

The path now changed its bearing to N.E.Being the rainy season, the ground was very moist. And there are many good and permanent springs, whose streams run longitudinally with the mountain, from which the natives of the towns, now built on the top of the mountain, receive their supplies when their tanks whichare formed by nature on the top of the mountain are exhausted. At six miles the path ran NN.E., with rock on both sides, Mount Koliko, and the town of the same name, being close on our left. The caboceer met us in the path with provision and water, as well as some peto for our refreshment.

After resting a quarter of an hour, we again proceeded on our march along the side of a smooth granite rock, so much on the dip or incline that my horse could scarcely keep his footing, though he was very sure-footed. After passing about a quarter of a mile over this dangerous road, the path ran along a narrow and small stream of clear water, with pebbly bottom. This reminded me of some of my native glens, the haunts of my boyhood. The rich luxuriant shrubs and trees intermingled overhead, forming festoons, woven together by various running plants of the sweetest odour, rendered this part of the path truly delightful and refreshing.

At seven miles the path changed toN.60°W., and we crossed a rapid stream, named Nanamie, runningN.At seven miles and a half we passed over a granite mountain, with good spring wells on the top. At eight miles the valley became narrow, with high mountains on each side of the path. The mountain on the left is named Laow,as is also the town. The caboceer, with his attendants and soldiers, met us in the path, with plenty of provisions and water, as well as rum, of which my people drank very freely. Having presented this caboceer with some trinkets and a flask of rum, we resumed our journey. The character of this mountain differs considerably from those in the neighbourhood, being divided into different sections of various thickness and strata, running N.E.and S.W., at a dip of 12° towardsE.byS.

At eight miles and a half, NN.W., and at nine miles, NN.E., I noticed a fine brook and cascade, running south, named Kossieklanan; and on the east side, I observed a mountain, named Tamargee, of considerable magnitude. Here the palm and shea butter-tree grow in great abundance, but the butter-trees have all undergone the operation of scorching. At ten miles and a half I observed a chain of mountains, running north and south, distant from the path two miles; the northernmost of these is named Sawee.

On these mountains is a sort of yellow and very fine grass, equal to the finest needles, and about two feet high, growing in tufts similar to rushes. It appears at a distance as if the herbage were entirely scorched, being about the colour of yellow ochre. A shrub of the same colourgrows here, about ten feet high, with leaves placed on the tree very similarly to our box, but about three times the length.

At twelve miles and a half, and distant from the path two miles to the right, are the mountains Lofo and Apakissa; and at thirteen miles, a mountain, named Bowha, close on the right of the path. Here is in the path a very fine spring, at the temperature of 62°, the water quite clear and less impregnated with iron than most others.

At fifteen miles Mount Koglo rose before us, eighteen hundred feet high, close to the left of the path, with a very large town on the top. Here we were not met by the caboceer or any of his people, as in other towns belonging to the King of Dahomey, but found they had been making bad fetish, as the natives term it, in the path. They had killed a white fowl and filled an earthen pot with palm-oil and some other composition, sticking the feathers into this composition and placing the pot in the path. This is considered by them to be one of the greatest insults which can be offered. However, I endeavoured to convince them that their bad fetish was of no avail. Still my people seemed rather alarmed in passing it, turning some distance out of the path.

A little farther on, we came to a market-place, attended only by some few women selling peto; but as these people were from the town of Koglo, the caboceer gave strict injunctions that none of our party should purchase anything. A messenger was immediately despatched to Abomey to inform the King of the conduct of the caboceer of Koglo, who, no doubt, will pay dearly for his bad fetish to the King’s stranger; they are sure to be invaded next year. They were defeated this year, but since that period the caboceer died, and his successor denies his allegiance to the King of Dahomey; but he will no doubt be glad to succumb, after a severe chastisement. At seventeen miles we came upon a brook named Lothay, running east, and a fine extensive plain to the eastward.

At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town of Whagba. About a mile and a half from the town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer and his attendants, who paid us every mark of respect, and drank water and then rum with us, his soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating their drums the whole distance into the town. The town of Whagba is fenced round with the prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty yards wide. After passing through this outerfence, and about one hundred yards distant, is another wall, with strong gates, outside of which is the general market-place for strangers. Immediately inside is the principal town-market, which is held twice every week. Inside is another wall of hard clay, or swish, with still stronger gates. Upon entering the town I was met by ten of the trading merchants from Abomey, who gave me a hearty welcome.

The natives of this town seem a very mild and are apparently a more independent people, being less servile to their caboceer, than in any of the Mahee towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer seems much revered and esteemed. In the town I found excellent accommodation, the caboceer having some time previously to my arrival been made aware of my intention to visit him, consequently no trouble was spared to make me comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had been run up in the space of a fortnight for my accommodation, built square, and of two stories, with a ladder outside to ascend to the second story, quite unusual in any other towns except Abomey. The walls were yet a little damp, though the heat is so great.

Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, supplied with plenty of provisions and also abundance of peto. After having refreshed ourselves, wewere honoured by a visit from the caboceer and his retinue, with whom we entered freely into conversation. It appeared that he was a great favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently he was vested with considerable power beyond what is generally allowed to any of the caboceers I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo. The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or ruler over several minor towns in the neighbourhood, within a circle of twenty miles. He was also allowed to govern his town at his own discretion as far as regards their domestic laws or customs, but their criminal laws were strictly Dahoman.

Sunday, July 20th.—A caboceer arrived from a town named Teo, at some distance from Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several people with him, both head men and slaves, and with them about ten bushels of ready cooked provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of Dahomey, and another for myself. The caboceer, Athrimy, seemed much gratified in having an opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign by presenting me, the King’s stranger, and my people, with provisions gratis; although, of course, I gave them several articles of European manufacture in return.

This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba,seemed to take great pleasure in making inquiries respecting England, our gracious sovereign, and our laws. They remained in conversation with me full three hours, their principal men being also present. Both of them seemed amused and astonished. After our palaver was finished, the guard of soldiers who accompanied Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all commenced their native war-dance. Then my Dahoman guards performed their dance. Afterwards, as is customary on such occasions, I presented the caboceers and head men with some rum, which at all times is very readily accepted; although in Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and even punished, unless the party should be one of the King’s jesters, of whom his Majesty keeps a considerable number.

Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country, as well as on the coast, consider the greatest proof of their riches and power to consist in their having the means of getting intoxicated at least once every day. The caboceer Athrimy had heard of my entering the names of some of the caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book, and requested, as a great favour, that his own name and those of his head men might be inserted in my book, deeming this to be the highest honourwhich could possibly be conferred upon them. As the enumeration of the names, therefore, may be of service to future travellers (since nothing will secure the confidence and friendship of these Africans more surely than the fact of a stranger visiting their country and inquiring for any of them), I here set them down.

After entering the names of the principals they determined upon giving me a puzzler, by desiring me to call the roll of the names I had already entered, and when each name had been called, and each individual had answered to his name, they all seemed quite amazed, expressing their conviction that white man was equal to their great fetish in knowledge and power. Their names were as follows:—

1. Kpaloo.2. Damossee.3. Kawpnhoo.4. Chassoo.5. Koothay.6. Bosa.7. Kossau Maboo.8. Semanoo.9. Koyakway.10. Dadamy.[8]11. Baadoo.12. Dyahoo.13. Wayhee, the caboceer’s principal or favourite wife.

Soon after this ceremony my friends departed, returning me a thousand thanks for the presents which I had given them, and hoping that I would soon again visit their country.

I then went out to visit the various krooms in the vicinity of Whagba, which were numerous. I took my gun with me, as partridges are very plentiful here, and very large. My people were very much delighted at seeing me shoot the first one flying. The body of the partridge is nearly as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-dove is also abundant here, as also the wood-pigeon (exactly similar to those in England,) and the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons are also found here of various plumage—green body, yellow and blueish green wings, with a red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is here domesticated, and the vulture and eagle are also abundant, as well as several other birds of prey. I here observed several bulbous plants, bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in my travels.

An incident took place during my absence, which, although absurd, may be worthy of notice here, since it serves to show the ridiculous ideas and manners of the natives. During my temporary absence from the town, the man who had charge of my horse had been persuaded to accept a bribe from the caboceer to allow my horse, which was entire, to serve a very handsome mare, presented to the caboceer by the King of Dahomey.As soon as the mare was brought near my horse he became unruly and broke from his fastening and by some means tore or pulled off one of his shoes. This caused me to inquire by what means it occurred, believing that some of my people had been beating it, but every one denied all knowledge of the shoe being off. I then declared that I would punish the man in charge of my horse for neglect of duty, knowing that if he were at his post he must be aware by what means my horse had lost his shoe. This threat had the desired effect, and the man openly confessed that he had been tempted by the reward of one head of cowries,[9](which at this place is forty-seven strings, each string containing thirty-three cowries,) or one dollar, (in this part of the country of more value than five sovereigns would be in England,) to allow it, although it is believed amongst these uncivilized beings that he is thus entirely spoiled during the rest of his life, and is rendered quite unfit to carry a rider after. This shows plainly the absence of principle, for this man who had charge of my horse was a captured slave, and had received a good education at the government school at Sierra Leone; but passionso far overcame principle, that for one dollar he would sacrifice my horse.

The caboceer, who was soon made aware of my having learned all the facts of the case, became alarmed, naturally supposing that I should feel much annoyed at such conduct, and dreading lest I should make the case known to the King of Dahomey. He was so much alarmed, indeed, that he would not venture into my presence during the whole of the afternoon, but several of his messengers visited me, requesting to know if I had every thing I wanted, and informing me that it was their master’s wish I should be furnished with any thing I might require. In the evening the caboceer and several of his head men and principal wives, and also several of his daughters, ventured to visit me. Upon approaching me, the old man in front, the whole party prostrated themselves on the ground, throwing dust over their heads and shoulders, until I had assured the caboceer of my forgiveness, at the same time telling him that had he asked me, he should have been welcome to the use of my horse. I also remonstrated with him upon the absurd notion entertained by them. To my no small surprise, the old man presented me with his youngest daughter for a wife, who was a mulatto, telling me shewould be useful to wash my clothes. Upon my declining his offer, the old man seemed rather offended, until I informed him that as African wives were considered by their husbands to be also their slaves, I could not, without a breach of the laws of my own country, accept his offer. I told him, however, that I should make my proffered wife a present of a few small cotton handkerchiefs, and when I again passed through his country I should call for his daughter. This reconciled the old man, and I believe gave his favourite child much more satisfaction than leaving for ever her home to become a white man’s slave.

The old man furnished myself and people with an excellent supper and plenty of peto. I invited him to spend the evening with me, and partake of a glass of grog, which he very willingly accepted, and we parted for the night the best of friends.

July 21st.—Early in the morning, a messenger came to my house to inquire after my health, and about an hour afterwards an excellent breakfast was sent for myself and people. I had to put on the cast shoe on my horse, which was a difficult task, as I had not proper nails, and the hoofs of the African horses are so hard that a nail canscarcely be driven without the assistance of a brad-awl. Fortunately, however, I had a few common nails and a shoemaker’s hammer, so that by beating the nails a little thinner, and using the awl, I managed to fix the shoe, and prepared for my journey back to Baffo. The caboceer had ordered all his soldiers to prepare to accompany me as a sort of convoy out of the town.

All being arranged, the old man, and his numerous family and principal people, led the procession, and we passed out of the gates of the town, when immediately a running fire was commenced by the soldiers of Whagba. After accompanying me about a mile, the old man signified his intention of returning, and coming close to my horse he prostrated himself and bade me farewell; but I begged that he would dispense with such humiliation, assuring him that a white man did not require it. He expressed his high sense of the honour conferred upon him by the King sending his white stranger to visit him. He said he had heard there were white people, but never expected to see one, but hoped that I would soon again return, assuring me that my new bride should be waiting for me whenever I came back, and that every comfort should be furnished me, free of expense, whenever I might visit his country. We thenshook hands and parted, the old caboceer with tears in his eyes.

I forgot to mention the names of the caboceer and head-men of Whagba;[10]they are as follow—

On my return to Baffo we proceeded by the side of the mountain of Kpaloko opposite to that we passed before, consequently we visited other parties to those we had met on my journey to Whagba. The first was the caboceer of Mount Laow, whose name was Minakoko. On my return I found him on the side of the path, with a number of his head men, and carriers with provisions, in all twenty-five large calabashes full together with a fine young bull. The caboceer of Massey also met me at the same place, presenting me with the same quantity of provisions as the above, which were more than we could all devour. After marching about two miles in a beautiful valley, well wateredand cultivated, with Kpaloko on one side and Mount Laow on the other, as well as other mountains equally steep and difficult of access, we were again met by the caboceer of a town on the side of Mount Laow named Filaly, with fifty-five calabashes of provision, in all about twenty bushels; he also presented me with a very fine bull, and the caboceer of my guard with two goats. Kodeko-Sedgenakaw was his name, and he was one of the instances of surnames.

In passing this valley of several miles in length, and of three quarters of a mile in breadth, I could not help observing its natural defences as a military position. On our left was Kpaloko, whose steep sides are totally inaccessible, and Mount Laow, running parallel on the opposite side of the valley, equally steep and inaccessible, although not so high. Supposing this valley were walled across (which is narrow at each end) with batteries on the top, and properly armed, a disciplined army might, with proper resources, defy any number of enemies. The valley is composed of excellent soil, and rears annually four crops of the small red Indian corn. This sort, I believe, would grow in our British isles; and, with other vegetables, which grow with equal rapidity, would support an army constantly, capable of defendingit during any siege, however prolonged. It has numerous springs, besides a considerable stream, which passes along in a serpentine course.

After reaching the end of this interesting valley, we were met at the market-place on the side of the path, under some large trees, by the caboceer of Kpaloko, who presented me with thirty-nine calabashes of provision and a fine bull. His name was Janko. While resting under the shade of the gigantic trees I could not help looking back with wonder on the singular work of the Supreme Ruler of Nature. The immense blocks, which might well be called mountains of granite, we had passed, thrown together in a confused mass or heap, overhanging the valley in awful grandeur, presented certainly the most interesting scene of the kind I had ever witnessed. This caboceer was very communicative and intelligent, and, I learnt, was much loved and respected by his people.

After resting about an hour, and distributing some presents, as I had done to all the caboceers and head men on my journey, we marched on our return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening, where I again took up my old quarters.

July 22d.—Early in the morning, Jeka Housoo, caboceer of Mount Joko, came all the way to Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisionsfor my breakfast. I had now made up my mind to remain at Baffo, and explore the neighbourhood of this romantic place, and, if possible, to ascertain the name of the mountains already mentioned in my Journal. They appeared to me to be the same as those described by the old Mahomedan priest, (who paid me several private visits, according to the custom at Abomey,) as the Dabadab[11]mountains, where I should find Terrasso-weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living in Yaouri, and present at the murder of Mungo Park, and who would be able to give me every information I might require respecting the melancholy fate of that unfortunate traveller. All my inquiries, however, were in vain. When I asked any person unconnected with my own party, their answer uniformly was, that they did not know the name of these mountains; they could only just perceive them in the distance; that they were too far away to know their name; and that I must ask my own caboceer.

I had already found out that orders had been given by the King that no person, who was not quite acquainted with any subject I might require information upon, was to pretend to answer anyinquiries. But even my own caboceer pretended ignorance of the name of these mountains. I therefore determined to steal a march, if possible, from my guard of soldiers, although I was aware it would be attended with difficulty as well as hazard to myself and those who accompanied me. I went out and returned again frequently during the day, from short shooting excursions, till the caboceer of my guard considered a few men sufficient to attend me during these rambles in the neighbourhood. This was just what I was aiming at. When I found my object so far attained, I called my own private servants, Thomas and John, and told them of my intention to visit the distant mountains I had that day been observing through my telescope, informing them that these mountains were, beyond a doubt, the same as those described by the old priest at Abomey as the place where we should find Terrasso-weea.

They were, they said, of the same opinion; but when I again told them of my intention to visit those mountains, they pointed out many objections, some of which were not unreasonable. They were aware of the strict injunctions of the King to my guard respecting my safety and return to Abomey, and also that the captain, or caboceer, of my guard was responsible by his head formy safe return; they moreover observed, that if we entered the territory of another prince with an armed force, it would place us in danger. Still I persevered in my intention of proceeding, and told them I would make each of them a present of a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their pay, upon my return, if they would accompany me. This was to them a tempting offer for one day’s journey (as we then supposed). They promised to keep all quiet, and agreed to my arrangement. I told them that I would go out early in the morning, as if on a shooting excursion, and directed them to bring with them one head of cowries, and a small box, containing a few clasp knives and some small scissors, Jew’s harps, needles, and thimbles. With these few articles we went out to shoot; and as I generally shot off my horse’s back, no suspicion of my intentions was evinced by any of the rest of my party.

It fortunately happened, that early on this morning the caboceer from Mount Awya, whose name is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision and live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams, and five strings of cowries, so that I had an opportunity of leaving when the soldiers were at breakfast. Only three soldiers accompanied me,one of whom happened to be a Fellattah. After we had gone about five miles, and I not appearing to notice the different birds, my attendants pointed out to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as we passed, and appeared to become uneasy, broadly hinting that it was now time to return. However, I was determined not to let the present opportunity slip, but at once told them that I intended to visit a friend who was at present trading in a town close at the foot of the distant high mountains.

The path bore (true) North 50° towards East. The land is level and rich loam, and well watered from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving Baffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows itself till within a few miles of the town of Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated, and crops of maize and Guinea corn are abundant; yams and manioc are also plentiful. Palm-nuts and ground nuts also abound; and here the shea-butter is in common use for burning in their lamps, which are of a very simple construction, being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the shape of a saucer. Their method of trimming their lamps is as simple as the construction of the lamp itself: a piece of wick is twisted from the native cotton which is abundant here, and coiled up in the vessel,then a quantity of the shea butter, about the consistence of hog’s-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on the top of the wick. The lamp thus trimmed is placed in a small niche, several of which are left in the wall when the house is built. As the heat of the lighted wick approaches, the butter melts into a liquid like oil, and burns extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell.

FOOTNOTES:[8]Commander-in-chief of the militia.[9]After proceeding some distance into the interior the cowrie increases in value.[10]Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected as one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and summoned to Abomey to be my guide through that country.[11]Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling, made without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.

[8]Commander-in-chief of the militia.

[9]After proceeding some distance into the interior the cowrie increases in value.

[10]Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected as one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and summoned to Abomey to be my guide through that country.

[11]Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling, made without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.

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