CHAPTER IV.
Zafoora—Terror of the Natives—Cold Reception by the King—My Disappointment—Exorbitant Charge—Unpleasant Position—Palaver with the King—Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans—Inhospitality—The Shea-butter, and other Trees—The Gwbasso—Prevalent Diseases—Soil—The Velvet Tamarind—Wearisome Journey—Akwaba—Cold Reception by the Caboceer—His Disappointment—Slave Trade—Hard Bargain—Manufacture of Indigo—Hardware—The Ziffa—King Chosee and his Cavalry—Their Hostile Attitude—Moment of Danger—Result of a Firm Demeanour—Respect shewn by the King and Natives—Enter Koma with a Band of Music—Kind Reception—Introduction to the King’s Wives—Palaver with the King—The Niger known here as the Joleeba—Presents to the King—Babakanda—Exorbitant Charges for Provisions—Manufactures—Ginger, Rice, &c.—Seka—Bustle of the Caboceer—Slave-Market—Trade Monopolized by the Caboceer—The Kolla-nut—Honey—Peto—Palaver with the Caboceer—Soil—Assofoodah—Hostile Reception—Palaver—Ridiculous Confusion—Inhospitality.
Zafoora—Terror of the Natives—Cold Reception by the King—My Disappointment—Exorbitant Charge—Unpleasant Position—Palaver with the King—Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans—Inhospitality—The Shea-butter, and other Trees—The Gwbasso—Prevalent Diseases—Soil—The Velvet Tamarind—Wearisome Journey—Akwaba—Cold Reception by the Caboceer—His Disappointment—Slave Trade—Hard Bargain—Manufacture of Indigo—Hardware—The Ziffa—King Chosee and his Cavalry—Their Hostile Attitude—Moment of Danger—Result of a Firm Demeanour—Respect shewn by the King and Natives—Enter Koma with a Band of Music—Kind Reception—Introduction to the King’s Wives—Palaver with the King—The Niger known here as the Joleeba—Presents to the King—Babakanda—Exorbitant Charges for Provisions—Manufactures—Ginger, Rice, &c.—Seka—Bustle of the Caboceer—Slave-Market—Trade Monopolized by the Caboceer—The Kolla-nut—Honey—Peto—Palaver with the Caboceer—Soil—Assofoodah—Hostile Reception—Palaver—Ridiculous Confusion—Inhospitality.
Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However, as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless informed the caboceeror king of our approach, and he had sent a messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came, and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was, that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned, informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us. Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers, who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted. The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted. During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea.
As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as ifaroused from stupor, was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after a long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This seemed almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that my people were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. My poor fellows were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a little tired, although I had walked some considerable distance. I had travelled forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much as possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I could purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be brought, from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon asking the price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. This was an exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other is 1¹⁄₂d.; however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, although I had only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent more than a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, but although they would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet money—money seemed to speak their language better than any thing else, as in fact it does in all countries.
This circumstance was rather a damper on aprivate scheme I had then in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun, and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora, that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po, whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that the white man spoken of by the King must be the same.
I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my guard in a clandestine manner,and in all probability I might be the means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my return, which would be as soon as possible.
The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamationwas issued that the name of these mountains should never again be mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in the morning—rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything in return.
July 24th.—Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path boreN.35°W.varying toN.10°W.andN.15°W.(true) bearing. The country was level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more roughthan those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep. The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of great size, as well as hippopotami.
Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers, each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants. Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives; probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was strictly forbidden.
At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet, running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it.
We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba. Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea. This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer,the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing.[12]However, we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, respecting white men’scountry, and also respecting the Dahoman country, which they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against the Dahomans for not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass through into the Fellattah country.
The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles. These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling, we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red rice, which grows in thiscountry, and with the two fowls and some shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back.
Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow, and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it. The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions, to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also stirrups, similar to those used bythe Moors in the neighbourhood of Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb, but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently the case in the Fellattah country.
In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain, and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the caboceers of our coming.
When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn plantation, we were met byChosee, the King of this province, preceded by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us, flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment, not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however, long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur, though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless for us to sell our lives cheaply.
Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song, each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself. I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After going throughthe usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma.
This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European, but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it. I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent, independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles.
After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerieSome of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent.
The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was rather perplexed how to answer, but was obligedto acknowledge that I had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to be able to supply in abundance.
He asked in what way we would pass the merchandise I proposed to barter into his country, as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and Yarriba would not allow any other articles than such as they approved of to pass through their country into the interior. To this I replied that we could come up the great river Niger, which was not known here by that name; though I soon ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge ofthe unfortunate expedition up that river, with the fire canoes, as he called them; and he even knew of the disasters which happened to that expedition, assuring me that that season was the most fatal to the natives in his own and other countries in the interior, which had been known during the lifetime of the oldest man then living.
The Niger appears to be known here only by the nameJoleeba, notJoliba. Only a few people here professed to have ever seen it. Fever and small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all diseases; though a very loathsome disease prevails, which in England is generally called yaws. Some are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their person is almost unbearable; others are one mass of eruption with holes in the arms and legs even to the bone.
After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I proposed resuming my march, and looked out some Jew’s harps, and a pair of small scissors, with some needles, as a present to the King, excusing myself for offering him such trifling articles, by informing him that I was not aware that I should come so far, but in my next journey I promised to make him some more valuable presents. He then commenced a long list of the articles whichhe would prefer that I should bring on my next visit, to which of course I assented.
His Majesty expressed a great desire that I should remain that night, but as my journey was long, and I was anxious to get it over, I declined his kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied by a messenger sent by the King to introduce me to the chief of the next town, which we reached in about six miles more. This town is named Babakanda. Around it the land is in high cultivation, bearing excellent crops of various sorts of corn and rice, as well as many bulbous plants for consumption. Here we were also tolerably well received, probably on account of the King’s messenger. This town is much larger than Koma, and has got a palace or a royal residence, where the King often resides.
The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as well as many others in this neighbourhood. The caboceer of this place received us without great ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and diffident, till the King’s messenger intimated my knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey to Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and confidence. We asked him for some wood to kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but theywere so very dear, that we could not make a bargain for any of them. They asked sometimes twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as I have said, one string and a half was the market-price. I was much annoyed at this, but would even have purchased at their own price, if they would have taken any of my articles in exchange; however, the caboceer would not take any thing but money in payment, though he asked greedily for presents. I gave him only a paper of needles, however, as a remuneration for the wood with which he supplied us.
The chief manufacture of this town is leather and sabres of an inferior description, remaining in whatever position they are bent. Ginger is grown here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams of a very large description. The stock of cattle is also abundant, though not quite so handsome as those of the Mahee country. The natives are very shy of intercourse with strangers, consequently I had little opportunity of knowing by inquiry much of their locality beyond my own observation. The town appeared to contain about nine or ten thousand inhabitants.
At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted off a few heads of boiled corn, and marched from Babakanda, bearingN.33°W., true bearing,varying during the day’s journey of twenty-eight miles, from 33° to 25°, 20° to 80°W.During the first twelve miles the country was nearly of the same character as last described, except that I observed the springs in this neighbourhood to contain a greater quantity of carbonate of iron. At thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka. Here we entered with little ceremony, though our sudden intrusion did not seem quite agreeable to the caboceer. Probably this feeling was roused by our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint him with our attention of visiting him, so that he might be able to make a greater display of his grandeur and show of dress, of which they are generally very fond. We found him in the market-place apparently very busy, for he appeared to monopolize the direction and regulate the prices of all merchandise and manufactures exposed in the outer market.
Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the market for sale, some in irons and others without. It appears that those wearing irons were strangers, brought from a distance, and the others were in many instances the children and relatives of the sellers. It may not be perhaps generally known, that the children of domestic slaves are invariably the property of the owners of theparents, and are bought and sold in a similar manner to our cattle, when disposed of by the breeders in the public market. The outer market is outside of the walls, under the shade of large trees, but when a town or city has two walls, the public market is held within the outer walls. This market is often attended by strangers from a great distance. The private market is invariably held within the walls; and if the town is large, there are several market-places in the most convenient parts of the town.
The caboceer and his officers retain the power of regulating the prices, as I have before stated; and as the greater part of the trade (with the exception of any European goods which may find their way into these remote parts) is entirely in his hands, on the great public market-days he is always busily engaged in the purchase of goods for his private markets. His wives and slaves are then stationed in the inner markets with different articles for sale, and many of the younger boys and girls are sent round the towns in the neighbourhood, hawking light goods for sale.
The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here, and seems much prized by the natives. From its extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic, and is very serviceable in promoting moisture in themouth when parched for want of water. The kaom (saltpetre) in its original state is sold here, but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee country. Cloths are also manufactured here with considerable taste, as also bridles and saddles, ornamented with cowries. The market-places are arranged similarly to our system in Europe, different articles being sold in places specially appointed for their sale.
In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb, consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk in a state of fermentation.
After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthenpots, made in the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart. I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew, however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand cowries.
After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant.The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with large trees of luxurious growth.
At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah. Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people, as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more substantial food.
After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features. My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey, as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie. I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces, the caboceer made asudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves, and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they styled king.
Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious. I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado, and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into another.
After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I did not at all relish. The objection made was thatthe doorways were too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself.
At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and, though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged to satisfy ourselveswith roasting the heads of boiled corn which we still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels.
He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement, that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine, but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents), and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavourto examine the contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat.
In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters, and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night, during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying, as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water yams.
FOOTNOTES:[12]In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.
[12]In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.
[12]In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.