CHAPTER V.

Inhospitality—Good Fortune—Soil—Mahomedan Town—Hymn of Welcome—The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.—Manufactures, &c.—The Crown-bird domesticated—Quampanissa—Market Day—Curiosity of the Natives—A Cranery—Market Constables, their Functions—Singular Musical Instrument—A Palaver with the Caboceer—Bidassoa—Mishap—A Bivouac—Reception by the Caboceer—Palm Wine freely taken by Mahomedans—Superstition of the Natives—Grain Stores—Manufactures—Buffaloes—Fruit Trees—Horses, their market price here—Cattle—Elephants—Manufactures—Game—Method of drying Venison—Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.—Kosow—Terror of the Native Females—Appearance of the Caboceer—Palaver—Presents to the Caboceer—His Harem—Swim across the River Ofo—Its Width, &c.—The Town of Kasso-Kano—Slave-Market—The Women—Neighbouring Hills—Iron—Antimony—Native System of smelting Ore—Native Furnace and Bellows—Roguery—Bivouac.

After a very uncomfortable night, and not much refreshed, we re-commenced at day-break, on the 27th July, our journey, but without breakfast. We had met with but little hospitality in this town, consequently our presents were not many in return. We were escorted to the outer gates by the chief, who is vested with the sole government, and his order is peremptory law amongst the subjects of this and several other towns. But although styled king, he can at any moment bedivested of his power by the real monarch of the Fellattah country. As soon as we had parted with our friend and his people, we began to think of obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at any distance from a town or kroom, we could not procure any corn, as it is only in the neighbourhood of towns or villages that the land is cultivated.

We very soon had an opportunity of filling our havresacks, and not long afterwards I had the good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of an uncommon description, at least to me, as I had seen but very few previous to this. This bird was very large, and of a jet-black colour: even the legs were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed to cheer my men, who before seemed very low in spirits; and, to be candid, I was not entirely void of the same feeling myself.

The path from Assofoodah[13]bearsN.45°W., varying from 45°W.to 10°, 25°, and 20° (true). The country was still level, the soil varying from gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep, similar to some soils in England. This, when wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery. It is very productive.

At four miles we arrived at a small town, strongly fenced in with a prickly hedge, at leasttwenty yards broad, and strongly walled inside, each fence having a strong gate, as well as being guarded by a sentinel or watchman. Here we halted at the inner gate, till a messenger acquainted the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long before the caboceer came, attended by two priests (Mahomedan), who, as they advanced, repeated passages of the Koran, at the same time holding out a small book about three inches wide, and four inches and a half long, with not more than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper, resembling rice paper. This ceremony was something entirely new to me, consequently I felt not a little confused, not knowing the meaning of it.

I was soon, however, set at ease through my interpreter, who, though he was one of the Dahoman soldiers, was a native of some part of the Fellattah country. I was determined to wait patiently to see what would be expected of me, never offering to pay any compliment, though I could scarcely help thinking that they had already been paying me one, which I had not yet returned. My interpreter, however, assured me that this was a customary form upon a friendly reception of strangers.

After the singing men had concluded their song or hymn of welcome, they all advanced, and with all the head men, except the chief himself,prostrated themselves before me. I then approached, and, dismounting, shook hands with the chief, who made me several graceful bows, each time repeating the word “sinou,” which, in the language of their country, signifies,How are you?or,How do you do?The chief was a fine, stout old man, apparently about sixty-five years of age, and very active for a man of his years.

The natives of this country are very different, both in form and appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans.

After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire tocook our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle with only the usual daily trade.

This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are also well known here.

The natives seem contented and are in the enjoymentof plenty. But the extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated. They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that between Abomey and Canamina.

We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town, followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer, or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey rejoicing.

We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards.

Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down, while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo, as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market, and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings seemed to create a great sensation.

In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe of distinctspecies, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected, several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men were clearing a passage for their master to advance.

The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board, about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument isslung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is not equal to that I have just described.

The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto), but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only native manufacture I saw was cloth.

After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a considerable distance to procure more water.

This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it. I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire, it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving them lessons,till overcome with sleep. During the night we were obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect.

On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town, without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances, the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as intoxicating.In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they interfere with the food of the latter.

Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it. Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds, all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and trees.

This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn, their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.

The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.[14]

Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like myself, but that some had hair as black as their own.

Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants, and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here.

After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also. We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearingN.23°W., and varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10°W.The land now became uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling slate, different to any thing I had before observed.

At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root,as well as kankie, ready cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.

There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable. Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted.

At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants. Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa, but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man, who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his village.

The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome,and the sheep considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite article of commerce.

We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces, dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either indrying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march.

The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They were very delicious and refreshing.

At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males andfemales made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow and spear.

In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity, although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual, into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly objected to as likely to give offence.

My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be allowed to pass through the country without the greatking of the country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence, and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions.

Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white man was going todashhim, or what present he was going to make him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there. Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted.

He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Theirfeatures and figures were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me, doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing.

After eating some of our dried venison with some roasted plantains, we resumed our journey; and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or anything to convert into a raft, to cross it. We were consequently obliged to make preparations for swimming across. One of my people carrieda change of linen, and two pair of light trowsers, and some other articles of hardware, as presents, in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle to the horse’s back. My little horse was an excellent companion in the water, for, by holding the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me across with a rapidity scarcely credible.

I had an American life-preserver, but that had already nearly drowned me by bursting. I never, therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We crossed the river in safety, but of course all our clothes were wet. My bag on the horse’s back was quite wet upon the horse’s first plunge into the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets wet, but saved their powder, by placing it on their havresacks, and tying them on their head. My ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence of keeping it in a water-tight case.

Immediately after we had crossed the river, two men from Kosow made their appearance. The caboceer had made no mention of this river, and he undoubtedly expected, by sending men after us, to ferry us across at an enormous charge. It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps a canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across the river, but it is placed at a small kroom, about half a mile higher up the river. Travellers withheavy loads cannot cross this river without employing the canoe. The men seemed much disappointed when they found that we had already crossed. The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards wide, and twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom. The current is three miles and a half per hour, and runs in a south-east direction.

To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had prepared a lead with a bullet, boring a hole through it; through this I passed a small line of twine, leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk; into this a piece of goat’s tallow is pressed. The twine is then passed through a very thin piece of wood about five inches square. If the river is very wide, and the crossing made by canoe, the line of course may be dropped over board as on board ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet of course sinks to the bottom, and draws the twine through the hole in the wood at the same time, till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into feet, the depth is accurately ascertained. If a river is not more than forty yards wide, it may also be measured in the same way, by throwing the wood and ball into the middle of the river; taking care to coil the line carefully up previously to throwing it.

The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being more than three feet above the surface of the water. We remained on the bank of this river till we dried our clothes. Here we also cooked some provisions, and cleaned our guns. We then again resumed our journey; and, at twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of Kasso-Kano. This town is well built, and the houses well thatched. There are three market-days in the week here: this happened to be one of them, and though the afternoon was far advanced, the dealers were busily employed. Slaves were abundant, and many parents were publicly offering their children for sale, numbers of them not more than eleven or twelve years of age. They showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an English fair.

Here the women are modest and handsome, the men generally tall, thin, and sinewy. They are apparently very jealous of their women, and naturally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great thieves. The chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow, and, like all others in the same office, seems to monopolize in a great measure the greater portion of the trade in all articles of consumption.

The hills in this neighbourhood abound withiron, and another mineral substance resembling coal, but this mineral is not so abundant: it is probably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was brought on board in small pieces (the largest not more than half an inch square) during the late Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear. It is used as and considered an infallible cure for inflammation in the eye, by merely rubbing it round it.

Here I had an opportunity of observing their system of smelting ore. The furnace is composed of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Roman cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same substance; the furnace is built of a circular form, and of about five or six feet diameter, and about eight feet high. From the top to the middle the furnace tapers inwards to the centre in the form of a funnel; it again widens from the middle to the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of bellows, which are covered nearly over with earth, and kept constantly wet. The bellows are formed by cutting two large round holes in a large block of wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the bellows are about a yard long, and about the thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather or hide at one end. This piece of hide is sufficiently large to cover the hole in the block of wood:it is put over this hole, and nailed round the edges. Besides the apertures there are two smaller holes, bored through the sides of the block to communicate with the large hole forming the body of the bellows. Over the mouth of the small hole, where it communicates with the body of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts close on the hole when the handle is pressed down. The two leather covers, being very loose, are raised up and down alternately, upon the same principle as the bellows used in England.

The man who blows takes the handles (which are perpendicular,) in each hand, and raises one hand up, and at the same time presses the other down, so that with the two bellows a constant blast is kept up. The pipe is frequently made of a sort of clay, similar to that used in coarse earthenware; but when such things can be procured, old gun-barrels, which have burst on the coast, not unfrequently find their way into the interior, and are sold at a very high price for this purpose. Guns in good condition are never suffered to pass into the interior, if the chiefs on or near the coast can prevent it.

But to describe the furnace: iron-wood charcoal, when it can be procured, is used for fuel. The furnace is then filled with a layer of charcoal andiron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two and sometimes three hours elapse before a melting heat can be produced. The melting of the ore of course commences nearest the blower, and the fused metal falls into the bottom of the furnace, when some more ore supplies the place of that which is already melted. When the whole is melted, a stopper is drawn to let the liquid iron run into long narrow moulds, which have again to be melted previously to becoming fit for the hammer. This was the most efficient furnace I had yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method of hardening it, though swords and spear-heads, as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in Kassokano.

The natives made several attempts to steal my camp-kettle, but my interpreter told them, as I clapped my hand to my sword, that I never hesitated to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one stealing my property. They told him he must not talk of cutting arms or heads off where we were only intruding strangers; but my interpreter assured them, that if their numbers were ten times more than they were, a white man cared not. If any man does him wrong, he kills him by some evilart, if not by the sword. Although this assertion was of course ridiculous, it appeared to have the desired effect.

After the gadadoo had finished his business, he again joined us, as we were lying down under a large tree, in the market-place. He offered us a hut during the remaining part of the night, but we found it so filthy, as to be uninhabitable, being merely a shed where the slaves had been kept for sale during the day. Both myself and men felt much annoyed at this, and we determined to leave the town, and encamp somewhere in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small presents, but he seemed to have expected much more. I peremptorily refused to extend my gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to proceed on my journey, never intimating any thing of my intention of encamping near the town.

We passed out of the town at the northern having entered at the southern gate, the path bearingN.30°W., and at two miles from the town we turned some distance out of the path, where we found some rocks, and behind these we encamped for the night, but did not kindle a fire, lest we might be observed. Early in the morning I aroused my poor fellows, who were evidentlybeginning to show symptoms of having been over-marched; and, though I rode a great part of the distance, I found the wound in my leg getting every day larger. Still I determined to pursue my journey, and though my poor companions had several times hinted that the safest course was to turn back, I remembered the old adage, recommended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty, never to put my hand to the plough and look backward. I felt much for my men, but I dared not say any thing, lest they should take a resolution not to proceed.

FOOTNOTES:[13]Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants.[14]Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in the neighbourhood of Whydah.

[13]Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants.

[14]Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in the neighbourhood of Whydah.

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