CHAPTER VI.
Peculiar Breed of Dogs—The Town of Zabakano—Market Day—Native Manufactures—Domestic Slaves—Palm Oil—Joleeba, or Niger—Horses make part of the Family—Pelican Nest—Pigeons—Kindness of the Gadadoo—Pigeon Shooting—Palaver with the Gadadoo—Population—Mounted Soldiers—Character of the Scenery—Grooba—Manufactures—The Town of Sagbo—Drilling System general here—Two sorts of Rice—Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp—Palaver—Dromedary and Elephant—Prevalent Diseases—The Town of Jakee—Reception—Ancient Custom—Breakfast of the Natives—Manufactures—Terror of the Natives—Chalybeate Springs—The River Jenoo—The Land Tortoise—Interesting Panorama—The Town of Kallakandi—Reception by the Sheik—Palaver—Band of Musicians—Peculiar Instruments—Manufactures, &c.—Slave Market—Horses—Laws-Cruel Punishment—Population—Attack on a Boa-Constrictor—Manufactures—Deer—Method of Preserving Meat and Fish—Trap for Wild Animals—Town of Ongo—Reception by the Caboceer—Interesting Aspect of the Country.
Peculiar Breed of Dogs—The Town of Zabakano—Market Day—Native Manufactures—Domestic Slaves—Palm Oil—Joleeba, or Niger—Horses make part of the Family—Pelican Nest—Pigeons—Kindness of the Gadadoo—Pigeon Shooting—Palaver with the Gadadoo—Population—Mounted Soldiers—Character of the Scenery—Grooba—Manufactures—The Town of Sagbo—Drilling System general here—Two sorts of Rice—Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp—Palaver—Dromedary and Elephant—Prevalent Diseases—The Town of Jakee—Reception—Ancient Custom—Breakfast of the Natives—Manufactures—Terror of the Natives—Chalybeate Springs—The River Jenoo—The Land Tortoise—Interesting Panorama—The Town of Kallakandi—Reception by the Sheik—Palaver—Band of Musicians—Peculiar Instruments—Manufactures, &c.—Slave Market—Horses—Laws-Cruel Punishment—Population—Attack on a Boa-Constrictor—Manufactures—Deer—Method of Preserving Meat and Fish—Trap for Wild Animals—Town of Ongo—Reception by the Caboceer—Interesting Aspect of the Country.
July 29th.—We kindled a fire, and made breakfast, and at sunrise we again commenced our journey from the neighbourhood of Kassokano. The country was much of the same character as that we had recently passed. Here I observed a particular species of dogs, much coarser than those in the Kong Mountains, where the breed is very much like the British greyhound thoughnot so large. After passing over several small streams of good water, of which we had each a hearty draught, we, at seven miles, arrived at the large town of Zabakano. Here the King met me, and escorted me with two hundred horsemen. He was well acquainted, it appeared, with the priest Terrasso-weea.
This town is beautifully situated, commanding a view of the surrounding country to a great distance. The people seem cheerful and contented. This was one of the principal market-days, consequently I had an opportunity of observing the supplies of the different articles of trade and consumption. It was well supplied with native produce, and a greater quantity of rice was exposed than in any other market I have visited in Africa. Here, also, I was shown a large quantity of armlets and bracelets, manufactured with considerable taste and skill in Bornou, and brought thither by Terrasso-weea’s trading party. Tanning and dyeing are also executed skilfully; and sandals and a peculiar sort of slippers are here manufactured, similar to those we found in Tangiers.
The chief possesses a great number of domestic slaves, but sells none of them. They are chiefly employed in trading with the surrounding towns and in tilling the soil, which is in a high state ofcultivation, to a considerable distance round. Palm-oil is manufactured here, and is actually transported, by the tributary navigable streams, to the Niger, or Joleeba, the name by which it is here known. Here it is not known either by the name of Quarra or Niger, but this circumstance is not at all surprising, for I find that all the rivers have different names in the various countries through which they flow. I have also, in many instances, found two places with the same name, at no very great distance from each other; but, in fact, the same may be observed in our own country. Native iron and nitre were abundant in this market.
Horses here invariably make part of the family, being fastened to a peg driven into the ground or floor, by the hind foot, having only about a foot of rope. The children are often seen playing between the legs of the animal, with which it seems much pleased, often nibbling at their heads with its lips, or licking their faces, as a spaniel would.
The chief seemed very anxious to acquaint us with every thing which might tend to our gratification; and, though he was the principal trader himself, he accompanied us through every part of the town. Close to the town is a lake, supplied partly by a small stream, and partly bythe heavy rains during the season. On this lake were a number of large trees, upon which were the nests of the pelican, a great number of which we saw roosting on the branches. I had never seen the nest of the pelican on a tree since I was in Egga, a town on the banks of the Niger, when I was there with the late unfortunate expedition under Captain Trotter. I then shot several on the trees; but here, at Zabakano, the inhabitants had an objection to my killing any of them; I could not therefore secure a specimen. Pigeons were very numerous here, both the wood-pigeon and the turtle-dove. The chief did not object to my shooting these, so I soon secured sufficient for my party for this and the following day. We were obliged to cook them immediately.
We were, however, very kindly treated by the chief or gadadoo, who strongly urged us to remain a day with him. This kind treatment seemed to inspire my poor fellows with fresh courage and animation; in fact, it seemed to act as a fresh stimulus to all of us. The natives were quite delighted with the sport of pigeon-shooting, for one or two of them were acquainted with such guns as had found their way to this town, and several others in the neighbourhood, but of the locks they had no idea; for guns are not allowed to be brought here by way of trade in a perfect state,and even were they, still without powder they would be useless.
The chief has a very large number of wives, but the principal portion of them are merely employed as his domestic slaves, as indeed are all the wives of the uncivilized Africans. The civilized portion is very limited, even on the coast. The gadadoo made me a very liberal offer for my carbine, but I told him that it would not be of so much service to him as his bow or sabre, unless he had a supply of ammunition; that as I had visited his country partly with a view to ascertain what articles would be most likely to suit their markets, I should, as soon as possible, return with a large stock of suitable merchandise. A story like this was much more likely to be believed amongst savages than any other excuse I could make for visiting their country. If told that my object was merely for scientific purposes, they would not have understood me, and would have been more likely to look upon me with suspicion, as they cannot believe any body can take interest about any thing not of a pecuniary nature.
This town contains about nine thousand inhabitants; it is clean and open, but I was informed that after the conclusion of the rainy season fever and small-pox are very prevalent. Small-pox ismuch dreaded by the natives, and seems to be the principal disease here. I have not observed one case of elephantiasis since leaving Accra, although at Whydah a disease of a similar nature is prevalent, affecting the head, and not unfrequently enlarging the forehead and eyebrows so much as totally to obscure vision. This distortion of nature, as may be supposed, has an extremely repulsive appearance.
After remaining about an hour and a half, I gave the gadadoo some small presents, which he received with apparent satisfaction. He and his head men, as well as his two hundred mounted soldiers, then conveyed me some distance from the town, going through their manœuvres of attack at the same time. This was merely a wild rush without any order or discipline, and so far from their being (as has been represented) a formidable force, ten well-mounted and well-disciplined horsemen would easily annihilate the whole party.
Here we parted from the most generous and affable chief we had met with since leaving the Mountains of Kong. During this day’s journey, our bearing changed fromN.45°W.to 12° 10°, 35°, 43°, and due West (true). The country now became very pleasant, and the path not so rough under foot. Around us in differentdirections were numerous hills, giving a relief to the dull sameness of a flat, dreary plain. We crossed several small clear streams, some of which had worn their channels nine or ten feet deep.
At fourteen miles we arrived at the small town of Grooba. Here the old chief, or head man, received us very kindly; doubtless, he had received a message which prompted this friendly reception. This town is clean and neat for an African town. The only manufacture of note here is cotton tobes, but different in pattern to the cloths manufactured in the Kong Mountains, which are invariably striped with various colours; but here the cloth is all either blue or white, similar to the tobes worn by the Mandingo traders who visit Sierra Leone. Here the blacksmith plies his trade, but only for the accommodation of the inhabitants of the town. A sort of cloth is also manufactured from the inner bark of a certain tree, which is very strong and durable, and of various colours. This when woven into cloth has a very rich appearance; long sashes or girdles of the same material are worn by most of the influential persons.
At seventeen miles we halted by a small stream and kindled a fire, where we cooked some of our pigeons, and had an excellent dinner. We afterwardsresumed our journey, and at twenty-eight miles arrived at the town of Sagbo. Around this town the country is well cultivated, and the drilling system seemed generally adopted. This is, doubtless, an advantage during the rainy season. Four different sorts of maize are cultivated here, as well as two sorts of rice, white and red. Here they have a better mode of cleaning and preparing the rice for use than any other place I have yet visited. The kolla-nut is abundant, as also the palm and shea-butter nut. Indigo is cultivated, and rudely manufactured in nearly all the towns we passed since leaving the Mahee country.
The chief and his head men and bowmen received us in a similar manner as at other places, with great pomp and solemnity, his priests taking the lead in conducting us into the market-place, advancing at a slow pace and repeating some select portion from the Koran. This ceremony, upon the whole, reminded me of a funeral procession in England. After we reached the palaver place in the market, we were invited to sit down, and water was handed to us. Nothing else, however, of a liquid nature was offered us. We were, as usual, interrogated as to our purpose in visiting the country. Thesequestions I answered to the same effect as I had previously done. My reply seemed to give general satisfaction. The chief was surrounded by bowmen and spearmen, many of whom were very fine-looking men. During this time, the chief, or sheik, as he is here called, amused himself by playing with his beard, rather an uncommon ornament amongst these people, and highly esteemed. We were presented with two fowls by one of the head men, to whom in return I gave two papers of needles.
This town is well supplied with good water, and the cattle, both sheep and oxen, are very handsome; the horses are small, but well bred. The dromedary and elephant are here to be met with tame. The sugar-cane is also cultivated, and very large, but not manufactured. The liquor after boiling the cane is used mixed with the meal of the Indian corn, instead of, or rather as we use tea or coffee; sometimes a little ginger, which grows here spontaneously, is added to it. This is a very wholesome and palatable beverage.
Here the small-pox had made dreadful havoc amongst the inhabitants, and was still destroying numbers daily. The sheik or chief took great interest in my recommendation to inoculate from the cow-pox, and several times put the question tome, whether I could not myself perform the operation, and instruct his doctors, of whom he has a great number. I excused myself for want of material, or matter. The inhabitants vary very much in colour, which proves the undoubted mixture of the tribes from distant countries. The greater part of the inhabitants of Sagbo are very dark, tall, and well formed. The general development of their cranium is good; they are very keen traders, cheerful and affable, and nearly all Mahomedans.
I was, as usual, obliged to draw on my little stock, which was now fast diminishing, and to give a few needles and a thimble, as well as a Jew’s harp, to the chief, who deemed the Jew’s harp a wonderful piece of consecrated iron. We then recommenced our journey, the country bearing the same very pleasant aspect, and with trees a little larger than I had met with during my last four days’ journey.
After a rather tiresome march, we arrived, at thirty-eight miles, at the town of Jakee. The chief of this town is subject to the chief of Sagbo, who directs or governs six large towns in his own locality. It appeared that a private messenger had been despatched from Sagbo to inform the chief of this town of my coming. The samemessenger was with the chief of Jakee when he met me half a mile from the town. The old man received me with marked courtesy, and without much ceremony we were conducted into his court-yard.
As it was getting late, and we had expressed our intention of remaining all night, the chief readily showed us an apartment or hut, in his own court-yard, where we were to repose for the night; and upon our informing him of our long journey, he seemed to sympathize with us, and in a great measure dispensed with the usual palaver, but joined us in our quarters, where he seemed delighted to receive information respecting white man’s country, and also of the country we had passed through. He expressed his great surprise that a man should venture so far from his home and relations, and run the risk of casualties in so many strange lands. This man had by some means heard of the unfortunate Niger expedition, probably from Terrasso-weea, with whom he has been long acquainted. He took great interest in the trade of his own town, and expressed a great desire to know by what means he might increase it. We were rather annoyed during the early part of the evening by numerous curious visitors who came to have a peep at us, and some watchfulness was required, though we had little to berobbed of; however, it was the more necessary to preserve the little we had got.
30th July.—Early in the morning we were aroused by the ringing of a number of bells or gong-gongs, which, in accordance with an ancient custom, are rung round the town every morning at day-break to apprise the inhabitants that it is time to get up. These gong-gongs are used also to give the alarm in case of any sudden attack upon the town. As soon as this procession had passed, the chief paid us a visit, and inquired very kindly after our health. We were supplied with a quantity of the juice of the sugar-cane, and some meal mixed with it, about the consistence of gruel. Upon this we made a hearty breakfast, with the addition of some round balls, about the size of a potato, made from an under-ground bean, which is very abundant in this country. This bean is ground into meal and made into round balls. It is then fried in an earthen pot with palm-oil, and used for food. It is of a tolerably good flavour.
After distributing some needles and Jew’s harps, we recommenced our journey. During this day our bearing varied fromN.25°W.to 12°, 35°, 40°, and 22°N.towardsW.At six miles we arrived at a small market on the path forthe sale of provisions to travellers. Here they also sold water, which is at all times a bad omen for travellers, as showing its scarcity. We secured a calabash filled with water for a paper of needles, which seemed to take well in this part of the country. We were, however, happily mistaken in our fears respecting water in this instance, for, at ten miles, we arrived at a small village called Kiroaso, where we found plenty of good water. This kroom is famous for its tan-pits and dye-vats: the inhabitants of several towns at a distance visit this place for the purpose of dyeing their cloths and thread. Besides the indigo, they have a yellow and red colour which they manufacture, with which they dye both leather and cloth. Here the natives carve quantities of wooden bowls out of the cotton-tree with considerable taste. They seemed much alarmed at our presence, many of them running away upon our approach. As soon, however, as they learned that we were friends, they returned and would soon have become too familiar. We remained here only a short time, and then resumed our journey; and, at nineteen miles, arrived at the Kabra Mountains, along the sides of which we travelled, passing several small krooms or towns at their base, some of which we entered.
We found here several chalybeate springs, strongly impregnated with carbonate of iron of a deep orange colour. At twenty-five miles we arrived at the river Jenoo. This river is navigable by large canoes at all seasons of the year. It runs to the eastward, and is fordable at this season by persons on foot, not exceeding three feet and a half deep, with sandy bottom, and not more than twelve yards wide, with a current not exceeding two miles per hour. Fish, however, are not very abundant, as the natives are unacquainted with the method of catching them; I observed, therefore, very few for sale. It is rather singular that the conchology of all the inland rivers in this part of Africa is very limited, a sort of mussel being the only shell which I observed.
Of the crustaceous tribes a sort of shrimp or prawn is the only thing I noticed. The land-tortoise, however, is abundant on the banks of rivers, and is used by the natives for food. Having halted a short time after crossing the river, we again resumed our journey, passing amongst some beautiful shrubs and sweet-scented climbing plants, whose blossoms spread a sweet odour for a considerable distance. We marched some miles through this interesting panoramabefore we again reached the open plain. Here the soil again assumed a lighter colour, of a gravelly nature, and studded with trees of various kinds. The soil and small brooks still proved the presence of iron.
At thirty-four miles we arrived at the town of Kallakandi. Here we were tolerably well received by the sheik, or gadadoo, who seems intrusted with the government of a certain district of considerable extent. It appeared that he had only obtained intelligence of our approach a little while previous to our arrival, and was therefore flurried, and a little cautious and reserved in receiving us; but being acquainted with our object of overtaking Terrasso-weea, he became at once familiar, and informed us that he had occupied, with all his retinue, the very quarters assigned to me for the night.
We entered into conversation or palaver, which continued until dark. He seemed very intelligent, and had by his own account been at Timbuctoo, and gave exactly the same account of the place as the Mahomedan priest at Abomey, who stated he had accompanied Terrasso-weea thither. The sheik very kindly sent us two ducks of the Muscovy breed to cook for our supper, as also two yams and some corn, withplenty of good water. He again joined us after supper, seeming eager to obtain information. At length he proposed to retire, which was very agreeable to us, for we were very tired. He promised to call us early in the morning, to which arrangement he was very punctual, for certainly he aroused us some time sooner than we wished. This being market-morning, the town was all bustle.
Soon after we had been aroused by the gadadoo, we were visited by a band of singing women, who were accompanied by musicians, with instruments very similar to our German flute, made from the hollow cane and bottle-shaped gourds, with the pulpy part taken out and dried, with hundreds of human teeth strung together like beads, and loosely fastened like net-work over the gourd, which were shaken in the hand, keeping time to the other instruments used in the native bands of music: a similar instrument is used in Dahomey. Prostration on addressing a superior is common here, though they do not rub themselves with dust as in Dahomey or the Mahee country. I took a short ramble round the town and market-places, both the outer and inner.
Here I had an opportunity of observing the articles of commerce exposed for sale, which,however, differed very little from those I have already mentioned in other places. Smiths’ work is done here in a superior manner to most other towns I have visited. Axes and bill-hooks are made here; the axe is made to fit into the handle, instead of the handle into the axe, the crown or pole of the axe being made like a spike, and driven into a hole passed through the end of the handle. They are also excellent farmers. The weavers also display considerable taste in the manufacture of a peculiar sort of cloth I have not observed elsewhere but in Abomey.
Slaves were exposed in the outer market in great numbers, and early in the morning considerable numbers had changed owners. Sheep, goats, and oxen, are numerous, and very handsome. Horses are handsome also, but small, few exceeding thirteen hands high. Pigeons are numerous in this town, and are of various kinds. The vulture is common in all the towns in this country. The government may be said to be quite despotic, for though a certain power is pretended to be vested in the chief malaam, or minister, still every objection is overruled in acquiescence with the will of the sovereign.
Offenders against the laws are punished according to the estimated enormity of their crimes,by flagellation or imprisonment in irons, and labour in the fields; but all serious offences, such as those against the king, murder, and adultery with the wives of superiors, are punished by death and torture of the most barbarous description. Sometimes a pole, about six feet long, is prepared, with an iron hose fixed on the end of it; the iron being tapered to a long spike. This spike is made red-hot, and the culprit, being suddenly seized, is placed on his head with his legs or feet upwards. The spike, while red-hot, is passed into the lower part of his person and the bowels, and even to the crown of his head.[15]This mode of torture is only resorted to in cases of adultery with the king’s or malaam’s wives. Sometimes another mode of torture for similar offences is resorted to, equally barbarous and cruel—that of mutilation, and placing it in the mouth of the offender.
After promising to make a longer stay on my return, I marched from Kallakandi, this being the 31st of July, bearingN.22° westward; during the day’s journey varying from 22° to 5°, 10°, 5°, and 12° degrees to westward. The country near the town was well cultivated. At seven miles wecrossed a narrow river running eastward; and at twelve miles arrived at the town of Gooba. This is also a great market for the sale and purchase of slaves. Here salt is sold, but at a very high price, though of a very coarse and dirty description.
The town is governed by a malaam, named Dibo or Dibbo. He, however, is under the directions of the gadadoo of Kallakandi. The inhabitants of this town are about seven thousand in number, and seem a mixture of many tribes, which is easily detected by the cranium, independent of the particular marks or scars on the face to distinguish each tribe from the other. They seem to live in ease and plenty, having little trouble in cultivating the soil, which here produces four crops in the year of several sorts of grain.
We remained here only a short time, when, after making a present of a pair of small scissors for some water, with which we were presented, we resumed our journey. At fourteen miles, while crossing a swamp of no great magnitude, we were met by a number of women, heavily laden with different articles of produce for the market which we had just left. They were accompanied by several men, who walked in the rear. The women we found had been much alarmed a minute before, but seemed still more so at meeting me, some ofthe younger women endeavouring to pass into the thick impenetrable bush, which extended about half a mile along each side of the path. The men also seemed much alarmed, and the older of them, who were armed with bows and arrows, prepared themselves for an attack. However, they preferred submission, prostrating themselves as we passed. I requested them to rise, and after asking them how they were, they informed us of the extreme danger of passing any farther, till an enormous snake which they had just met should retire. They stated that this reptile had taken up his position in a large tamarind-tree, whence they said he had been in all probability compelled to retreat after a combat with a panther, which they said invariably practised one particular mode of attack. Whenever they come unexpectedly upon one of these reptiles, they pounce upon its tail, and thus prevent it from coiling itself round its prey. Then with its claw it secures the head, which is immediately brought round to release its tail. However, I never witnessed an attack of this sort, and must leave my readers to judge of the truth of this assertion. One of the party offered to go back and show us the enormous snake, and several others of the party volunteered their services also.
Accordingly we proceeded about six hundred yards, when we arrived at the velvet tamarind-tree, which they had spoken of, and which was thickly covered with leaves; but upon examining the tree we could not observe anything of the nature described. When I was just upon the point of accusing them of hoaxing us, one of them, who stood a little behind my horse, suddenly called out “waroo-waroo,” upon which one of my soldiers seized my bridle to pull my horse aside, and to my amazement the monster was pointed out to me with part of its body coiled round a bough, and its head and a considerable part of its body hanging down very near our heads.
It appeared this reptile had descended the tamarind, and had ascended a much larger tree of a different description. I immediately dismounted, and unstrapped my double-barrelled carbine, which was heavily charged, one barrel with swan-shot, and the other with smaller shot. The snake was certainly of enormous dimensions, and remained quite motionless. I took a steady aim at the neck, just behind its head, and fired the charge of slugs effectually, though for some time it seemed to have but a slight effect upon it, for it raised its head, and coiled the fore-part of thebody round another branch of the tree; but the spine being injured, it soon appeared to lose strength, and the tail, which was coiled round a limb, began to relax. It again uncoiled its fore-part, which hung down towards the ground. I then took my sword, which I had sharpened equal to a razor, and cut the head off at one stroke; but even then the people would not venture to touch it with their hands to pull it down, till I gave them a piece of small cord, which I invariably carried in my pocket. This was fastened round the body, and they then succeeded in pulling it down.
The monster was of the boa tribe, and measured thirty-one feet long, but the natives told me they had seen them much larger. My gun and sword excited great astonishment amongst the strangers, who were very anxious again to hear the noise. They seemed to fancy that it was the noise which killed the object the muzzle of the gun was directed towards; this I did not contradict. Here we were detained nearly an hour, when we again commenced our march, I and my people keeping a cautious look-out lest some more of our late antagonist’s companions might be in our immediate neighbourhood.
We were soon clear of the bush, and ouradventure speedily forgotten. At sixteen miles we arrived at a small kroom, the houses of which were all built of a circular form, the walls covered with a deep red clay, and many of the principal houses ornamented with different figures and hieroglyphics. The chief manufacture in this kroom is earthen pots of a superior description and jet-black polish. Pipes, or rather pipe-heads, are also manufactured here, though little tobacco reaches this place; but I learned that these pipes are sent even to Badagry. Their form is like the meerschaum. The natives also manufacture a very ingenious sort of lamp, in which palm-oil is used.
The chief of this kroom had in his possession a pot which attracted my notice. It was of copper, and evidently of Spanish manufacture. It had been in the possession of his family, it appeared, for many years, but he could not inform me from whom they had obtained it. There exists in this neighbourhood a species of small black deer, not larger than a small English terrier, some of which are here domesticated like the goat.
The country also abounds with larger deer of different descriptions, one of which I this day had the satisfaction of shooting, having cautiously crept behind a bush very near to him. There were a doe and fawn of the same description, at ashort distance, grazing. This chance would have supplied us with plenty of venison for consumption for several days could we have kept it fresh. What we did not require the first day we broiled in the smoke, and kept it very well for the second day. This is the method adopted by the natives in drying and preserving both meat and fish. Even when a human head is desired to be preserved, the brains are extracted through the spinal connexion and the head held on the end of a stick in the smoke till it becomes quite hard and dry. I have seen some thousands preserved in this way in Dahomey.
Wild carnivorous animals are very numerous here, and often make awful havoc amongst the stock of cattle, though traps of various inventions are employed (some of which would do credit to English ingenuity) to destroy them. An immense beam, with long spikes of hard wood fixed in it, is suspended about seven feet high. This beam rests on a pivot at each end. When the animal passes under and between the two pivots, he treads upon a lever which throws the beam off the pivots, and it falls with full weight on the animal, forcing the spikes their full length into its body. They have also man-traps of a very singular construction: these, though simple, are the most efficient I eversaw. They are always placed in situations where none but trespassers can be injured. This trap is generally set in a fence, so that a person climbing over must come in contact with a certain part of it, which secures a piece of wood connected with another of about seven feet long, which latter is bent about two feet out of its natural position. The slightest touch releases this, and the spring resumes its natural position in a moment. In doing so it strikes the intruder on the shins with such violence as frequently to break both legs.
At twenty-six miles we arrived at the town of Ongo, where we found the chief awaiting our arrival, about half a mile out of the town, with a number of horsemen and spearmen. Upon perceiving us he immediately advanced towards us at a gallop, the spearmen keeping pace with the others, though on foot. When within a few yards of us the whole cavalcade suddenly halted, and the chief and his principal officers dismounted, and all, except himself, prostrated themselves, remaining in that position till they were told to rise. The chief merely held out his hand, repeating the words, “Sinou, sinou,” which means,How are you?—how are you?—and gave my hand a hearty shake, bidding us welcome to his town. He said he had been made aware of our approach,and had prepared himself to meet us. He declared himself glad to see a white man, Terrasso-weea, he stated, was his particular friend, and had a white man with him, but not a proper white man like myself. He told me that Terrasso-weea’s trading party were all good men, and were his brothers, meaning that they were all Mahomedans.
Here we remained to cook some provisions. We were fortunate enough to obtain in exchange for a pair of scissors some good yams and a small grass bag of rice, containing about a pound. We also got plenty of water, which was tolerably good, but of a bitterish taste. This is frequently the case when the water is stagnant, and a certain sort of wood grows on its margin. Whether this is injurious or not I am not able to say, as I did not experience any evil effects myself, nor any of my party, from its use. The country now became delightful, and the monotony of a dreary plain was relieved at intervals by table mountains in various directions, nearly all of one height, not exceeding nine thousand feet.
This place is neatly built for an African town, and with considerable regularity of formation as regards the market-places for the sale of different commodities. The houses are very clean, and are ornamented with various designs, similar to thoseI have just described. The horse, as I have already said, invariably forms a part of the family, and is treated much better than on the coast, where they are not bred, but brought from the interior. Even here, however, many of the poor animals are very lean for want of sufficient food, as they are always tied by the foot, and are never allowed their liberty.
FOOTNOTES:[15]This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos.
[15]This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos.
[15]This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos.