CHAPTER II.

[26]I here use the wordNiger, as being the best understood by Europeans; but the proper name of this river in the country seems to beGuinorJin. (Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 32. 48. 51.) At the same time, it is more commonly designed by the termJoliba, meaning theGreat Water, or great river. In like manner, theGangeshas two names,Padda, the proper name;Gonga, the great river.The Moors and Arabs call itNeel Abeed, theRiver of Slaves; but they have also a name to express the great water, that is,Neel Kibbeer.Neelappears to be employed in Africa, asGongain India, to express any great river.ByNiger, the ancients meant merely to express the River of the Black People, orEthiopians. The term was Roman: for the Greeks believed it to be the head, or a branch, of theEgyptian Nile.[27]Pliny, lib. v. c. 4.[28]M. J. Lalande, almost at the moment of Mr. Park’s investigation, has determined its course to be to the west; notwithstanding the forcible reasoning of his countryman D’Anville. (Mémoire sur l’Intérieur de l’Afrique.) Mr. Bruce was of the same opinion. Vol. iii. p. 720. 724.[29]Euterpe, c. 32.[30]Lib. v. c. 9.[31]Probably a corruption ofSenhagi; orAssenhagi, as the early Portuguese discoverers write it. These were a great tribe.[32]This was previous to the Portuguese discoveries.[33]He was commonly called theNubianGeographer.[34]Gallam is one of the names of the country in which Fort St. Joseph is situated; and is often applied to the settlement itself.[35]D’Anville differs from Delisle in extending very greatly, the distance between Gallam and Tombuctoo; and by representing the Maberia lake, as one source alone, and that the least distant, of those of the river Senegal.[36]Pliny, lib. vi. c. 27.[37]Thomson believed it. After speaking of the Nile, he says,—Hisbrother Nigertoo, and all the floodsIn which the full-form’d maids of Afric laveTheir jetty limbs.Summer, 811.[38]Labat, Vol. ii. p. 161. 163. and iii, p. 361.

The Moors and Arabs call itNeel Abeed, theRiver of Slaves; but they have also a name to express the great water, that is,Neel Kibbeer.Neelappears to be employed in Africa, asGongain India, to express any great river.

ByNiger, the ancients meant merely to express the River of the Black People, orEthiopians. The term was Roman: for the Greeks believed it to be the head, or a branch, of theEgyptian Nile.

[27]Pliny, lib. v. c. 4.

[28]M. J. Lalande, almost at the moment of Mr. Park’s investigation, has determined its course to be to the west; notwithstanding the forcible reasoning of his countryman D’Anville. (Mémoire sur l’Intérieur de l’Afrique.) Mr. Bruce was of the same opinion. Vol. iii. p. 720. 724.

[29]Euterpe, c. 32.

[30]Lib. v. c. 9.

[31]Probably a corruption ofSenhagi; orAssenhagi, as the early Portuguese discoverers write it. These were a great tribe.

[32]This was previous to the Portuguese discoveries.

[33]He was commonly called theNubianGeographer.

[34]Gallam is one of the names of the country in which Fort St. Joseph is situated; and is often applied to the settlement itself.

[35]D’Anville differs from Delisle in extending very greatly, the distance between Gallam and Tombuctoo; and by representing the Maberia lake, as one source alone, and that the least distant, of those of the river Senegal.

[36]Pliny, lib. vi. c. 27.

[37]Thomson believed it. After speaking of the Nile, he says,—Hisbrother Nigertoo, and all the floodsIn which the full-form’d maids of Afric laveTheir jetty limbs.Summer, 811.

[37]Thomson believed it. After speaking of the Nile, he says,—

Hisbrother Nigertoo, and all the floodsIn which the full-form’d maids of Afric laveTheir jetty limbs.Summer, 811.

Hisbrother Nigertoo, and all the floods

In which the full-form’d maids of Afric lave

Their jetty limbs.

Summer, 811.

[38]Labat, Vol. ii. p. 161. 163. and iii, p. 361.

Concerning the Geographical Discoveries of Mr. Park.

Sincethe scope and design of Mr. Park’s routes have been already set forth in the beginning of the present work, it would be useless to say more on that head; and as the particular map of his progress will explain the relative circumstances of the Geography, nothing more will be necessary, than to call the attention of the reader to such particulars as may not readily occur to him on inspection of theMap;or which, from their nature, cannot well be inserted in it.

The discoveries of this gentleman (as has been said before), give a new face to thephysicalgeography ofWesternAfrica. They prove, by the courses of the great rivers, and from other notices, that a belt of mountains, which extends from west to east, occupies the parallels between 10 and 11 degrees of north latitude, and at least between the 2d and 10th degrees of west longitude (from Greenwich). This belt, moreover, other authorities extend some degrees still farther to the west and south, in different branches, and apparently of less height. One of these, follows the upper part of the Gambia river; another the Rio Grande, to a low point of its course; and a third appears to shut up the western coast of Guinea.[39]Accordingly, this chain approaches much nearer to the equatorial parts of Africa, than was before supposed; and thus we are enabled to understand fully what Abulfeda[40]meant, when he said, that after the continent of Africa has extended southward[41]from the Strait of Gibraltar, to the neighbourhoodof the Equator, it turns to the east,passing at the back of the mountains of Komri, which give rise to theNile.[42]The mountains in question, then, ought to be those intended by Abulfeda; who by the nameKomri, evidently meant to express theMountainsof theMoon; from which Ptolemy derives the remote source of the Nile.[43]As Abulfeda supposed the source of the Nile to be very far to the south or south-west (in which I agree generally with him), this chain may be supposed to pass onward from the abovementioned quarter, to theeast, andsouthofeast, shutting up Abyssinia on the south. This, at least, seems the only way in which we can fairly understand Abulfeda; in confirmation of whose description,a partof the ridge has been actually found by Mr. Park.[44]According to Leo (p. 249), the country ofMelliis bordered on the south by mountains; and these must be nearly in the same parallel with the mountains ofKong, seen by Mr. Park.

Mr.Beaufoywas informed that the countries on the south and south-west of the Niger, lying opposite to, and to the westward of, Kassina, were alsomountainousandwoody. In particular in the line between Kassina and Assentai, the country is said to be formed of a succession of hills, with woods of vast extent, and some mountains of astupendous height.[45]

As the source of the Nile is confessedly very far to the south of theparallel of 10 degrees north, this chain of mountains, admitting it to continue its general easterly course, must bend to the southward, after it passes Kong and Melli, in order to passabovethe sources of the Nile; the principal of which I conceive to be situated in the country ofDarfoor.

The highest part of the portion of this chain, pointed out by Mr. Park’s discoveries, is situated between the 5th and 9th degrees of west longitude; for within this space are situated the sources of the Gambia, which run to the west-north-west; of the Senegal, running to the north-west; and of the Joliba (or Niger) to the east-north-east.[46]There is, however, a general slope of the country, extending to a great distance northward, formed by a gradation of summits of lesser mountains and hills, as is shewn by the early part of the courses of the rivers; in particular, that of the Niger, which appears to run near 100 miles on a northerly course, before it turns finally to the eastward.

A large portion of the tract bordering on the northern foot of the mountains, from whence the branches of the Senegal river issue, is covered with thick forests. Mr. Park’s track on his return lay through these woods; one part of which is named theJallonka Wilderness, in which no habitations were seen during five days of forced marching. The hardships endured, even by thefreemen of this caravan, almost exceed belief.[47]

The head of the principal branch of the Senegal river is about 80 geographical miles to the west of that of the Joliba; and the head of the Gambia, is again, about 100 west of the Senegal. The branches of the latter are very numerous, and intersect the country for about 200 miles from east to west, in the line of the caravan route: and it was this circumstance that detained Mr. Park, during a great part of the periodical rainy season, inManding; a state of things, perhaps little expected, in a country regardedhere, as the most thirsty on the globe.[48]

We may conclude that similar circumstances take place, with respect to the Joliba; only that as its course is such as to intercept all the streams that descend from the Kong mountains on the south, whilst Mr. Park’s travels along it, were confined to the northern bank, he had no opportunity of knowing it, any farther than by seeing various openings on that side; and by being told that he could not possiblymake his waythere. No doubt, it receives some large streams also, when its course diverges far enough from the mountains as to allow the waters room to collect.

At the lowest point to which Mr. Park traced it, and which (although about 420 British miles in direct distance from its source) could only be reckoned the early part of its course, it was a very considerable body of water; the largest, he says, that he had seen (in Africa,) and it abounded with crocodiles. The rainy season was but just begun; and the river might have been forded at Sego, where its bed expands to a vast breadth. Still, however, we must not estimate the bulk of the Niger, thatNigerwhich was in the contemplation of Pliny and the Romans, by the measure of its bulk at Sego, and Silla.[49]If we suppose it to be the same river which passes by Kassina (and we know of no other), which place is 700 miles, or more, to the eastward of Silla, it would doubtless receive by the way great additional supplies of water, and be at least a much deeper river than where Mr. Park saw it. And here it may not be amiss to remark, for the use of those whoare not conversant with the subject, that rivers make the greatest display of their waters, in proportion to their bulk, at a moderate distance from their sources; and are often widerabove, thanbelow.[50]

There can be no doubt but that theJoliba, is a noble stream; and the prince of thewesternrivers of Africa, as theNileof theeastern: but the African rivers, however, rank lower than those of Asia and America.

Mr. Park judged that the Senegal river below the falls ofF’low, orFélou(as Labat writes it), was about the bulk of theTweedatMelross, in summer. This was indeed, in the dry season; but as the river does not begin to swell periodically till many months after that, Mr. Park, did not of course see it, at its lowest pitch. And yet this was the assemblage of all the principal branches of the river, save theFalemé, which was itself about three feet deep at the same season. But the Senegal is even fordable in some placesbelowthe conflux of the Falemé, according to Labat:[51]for the Moors cross it in the dry season, and commit depredations on some of the lands to the south. However, almost the whole of the towns and villages are placed on the south side, with a view of being in security for the longest possible term.

The Senegal river then, is by no means a very capital stream, except in therainy season; when, like all the other tropical rivers, its bed is filled, and very commonly will not contain the additional waters. Mr. Park observed by the mark of the highest point of swelling of the riverKokoro(or eastern branch of the Senegal), that it had been twenty feet higher than when he crossed it, in the line of the southern route. Themainbranch of this river, theBa-fing, or Black River, was not fordable, and was crossed over a temporary bridge of a very singular construction. Alligators, or crocodiles are found in all these branches, at the height at which Mr. Park passed them.

The Falemé river has also a remote source, and drains a great extent of country.

Concerning the Gambia Mr. Park had fewer notices. It is remarkable that the position pointed out to him for the source of this river, agrees very nearly with that found in Dr. Wadstrom’s map; from notices collected from another quarter. This is very satisfactory. I learn also from Dr. Afzelius that the distance across, between the approximating parts of the courses of the Gambia and Rio Grande, is four journies.

Mr. Park crossed in his way, six different streams that fall into the Gambia from the north-east. Amongst these the principal one is the Nerico, which flows from the quarter of Bondou; and is reckoned the eastern boundary of a tract which the Africans of this region style the Country of theWest, expressed by that of thesetting sun. This tract is on a lower level than that to the east; is flat, and the soil composed of clay and sand. It appears that the whole tract through which Mr. Parkreturnedis covered with wood, cleared only in certain inhabited spots (Numidian fashion): of which, the great tract, named the Jallonka Wilderness, is composed of primeval forests.[52]

The Bambara and Kaarta countries are also exceedingly woody, but less so than the other tract; and the woods are of an inferior growth.

According to the ideas collected from Mr. Park’s observations, thegeneral levels of the countries, near the sources of the great rivers are thus distributed:

Between the countries of Bondou and Neola on the west, Bambara and Kaarta on the east, the country forms a very elevated level, fallingrapidlyto the eastward; but onlyby degrees, to the westward: and narrowing in breadth, from 330 miles in the south (in the line between Bambara and Neola) to the narrow space of 60 or 70 in the north, between Kaarta and Kajaaga; and probably diminishing to nothing, as it advances into theGreat Desert; thus forming a great triangular space, whose vertex is on the north of the little kingdom of Kasson. This vast upland tract is divided into other degrees of level, of which the highest comprizes the eastern and largest part of the whole. The eastern boundary of this particular level, is, of course, that of the upper level, generally, in the part where it overlooks Kaarta and Bambara: and its termination, in the opposite quarter, is at agreat descent, west of the principal branch of the Senegal river, in Woradoo; from which place, the edge of it may be conceived to run northward, to joinanother descentof the same kind, which forms the falls ofGovinea, over which the great body of the Senegal river is precipitated, from thisupperlevel, to the intermediate one.

The upper level contains the political divisions of Manding, Jallonkadu, Fooladu, Kasson, Gadou, and some other smaller states. And the second, or intermediate level, contains Bambouk, Konkadoo, Satadoo, Dentila, and some others; and is bounded on the south-west, by the great slope of country at Kirwanney, where the waters first begin to flow towards the west. On the north-west it is bounded by the great descent which forms thesecondorlowerfall of the Senegal river, named F’low. This fall is about 30 miles below Govinea, 48 above Fort St. Joseph: and here the river being arrived at the lowest level of the country, continues navigable with little interruption to the sea.[53]The Falemé river of course, must run on a far lower level than the other heads of the Senegal river.

The Gambia has a small impediment to its navigation at Baraconda, in the country of Woolli; but although this is usually termed afall, Mr.Park was informed that it did not impede the passage of canoes: so that it ought more properly to be termed arapide, according to theAmericanphrase; that is to say, aslope, down which the water runs, with more than ordinary rapidity, but which does not, however, totally impede the passage of canoes, or small boats.

The Joliba (Niger) descends from the high level of Manding, into Bambara, on the eastward, with a rapid and furious course, at Bammakoo, about 150 miles below its source; after which it glides smoothly along, and affords an uninterrupted navigation to Houssa, and probably by Kassina to Wangarah; by the two first of which places, a very large and navigable stream does certainly pass, under the same name as is applied by the Arabs and Moors to the Joliba, that is, Neel Abeed, or River of Slaves: a name that marks the idea of the people of the country through which it flows, in the minds of those people.

Mr. Watt was informed, when atTeembo, the capital of theFoulahkingdom, in 1794, that in the way from thence to Tombuctoo, (concerning which his inquiries were pointed) a part of the road, lay along the side of aGreat Water, to which they came in about thirty days from Teembo. There can be no question but that theGreat Waterwas theJolibariver; whose very name, as we have said, in the Manding language literally imports the same meaning: or more properly, theGreat River. Some have concluded that the Foulahs intended by it a greatinland sea; but this is highly improbable, although there are, no doubt, such in other quarters of Africa, which serve as receptacles for those rivers which do not reach the sea. But, in the present case, the distance itself points to the Joliba; for, a month’s journey from Teembo, would reach beyond Yamina, but fall short of Sego: and we are told from the same authority, that in order to go to Tombuctoo, they pass through the countries of Beliah, Bowriah, Manda, Sego, &c. Beliah, we know not the situation of, but may conceive it to lie on the north-east, or east-north-east of Teembo; because Mr. Park points out Bowriah, under the name of Boori, adjacent to Manding, which is obviously recognized in the Manda of Mr. Watt: and Sego, there can be no doubt about. What is farther said concerning the great breadth of thewater, may either apply to the lake Dibbie, or may be African hyperbole. The sense appears clear enough.

I have extracted in a note, the intelligence concerning the Great Water: and also that, concerning theNyalas. Mr. Park has also heard of theNyalas, orGaungays, but is clearly of opinion that the interpreter of Mr. Watt, either misunderstood the story, or was himself misinformed.[54]

[39]Meaning Serra Leona, &c. &c.[40]Prolegomena.[41]Abulfeda in effect,literallymeantsouthward; for, like Ptolemy, and Strabo, he had no idea that the coast of Africa projected to thewestward, beyond the Straits, but rather supposed it to trend to theeastwardof south.[42]When the above is considered, we can understand that Abulfeda supposed the bays of Benin and St. Thomas to be 11 or 12 degrees more to theeast, than they really are; and he might well suppose that “the sea came in at the back of the mountains that gave rise to the Nile.”That theNile of Egypt, and not theNiger, is meant, we learn in another place in the same author, where he speaks of theEgyptianNile, and traces it to Egypt. Prolegomena, article Rivers.[43]Komri, or ratherKummeree, is the Arabic term forlunar; and is the adjective ofKummer, the moon. [Mr. Hastings.][44]The mountains of Kong were seen by Mr. Park; but no other part of the chain.[45]African Association, 1790, and 1791, quarto ed. p. 117. 123; octavo, 176. 186. Also quarto, 174; octavo, 260.As two editions of this work are in the hands of the public, I have referred to both throughout this work; distinguishing them respectively by Q and O.[46]The Rio Grande has its source very far to the south of this chain; first running to the north, till it touches the foot of this very ridge of mountains, by which it is turned to the west. [Vide Mr. Watt’s Plan and Journal.][47]The caravan in question was composed chiefly of slaves going from Manding to the ports of the Gambia.[48]There is in Africa, a rainy season; and also a periodical change of wind, as in the same latitudes in India: in effect, aMonsoon.[49]It may be conceived that the Romans, who, according to Pliny, (lib. v. 4.), held the dominion of the countries as far as the Niger, penetrated to it by the route of Gadamis, Fezzan, Taboo, and Kassina, as the most direct, and convenient one, from the Mediterranean. There are very clear proofs of the conquest of the three former by Balbus. (Pliny, lib. v. 5.) It was known to Pliny that the Niger swelled periodically like the Nile, and at the same season; which we have also in proof from Major Houghton’sReport; and from Mr. Park’sObservations. Pliny says, moreover, that its productions were the same with those of the Nile. (Lib. v. c. 8.)[50]In the Proceedings of the African Association, (Q p. 122; O. 183,et seq.) the river of Kassina is described to runto the west, andto pass on toTombuctoo; where it is said to be namedGnewa; possibly intended for Joliba, for thenandlare more commonly interchanged than themandn.[a]It will very probably turn out that there is an error in the above statement, and that it runs from W to E in the country of Kassina as well as at Tombuctoo. It would seem also to be a larger river in theeast, than in thewest; a presumption in favour of an easterly course. But perhaps, the best argument is, that it certainly runsfromTombuctoo to theeast. It must then either be one and the same river, or there must be a receptacle common to both, lying between Tombuctoo and Kassina! and we have not heard of any such. Much more will be said concerning this subject, in the latter part of the Memoir.[a]Abderachman Aga calls it Gülbi; (or Julbee). Hartmann’s Edrisi, quarto ed. p. 22.It is incumbent on me to acknowledge the obligations I owe to M. Hartmann, for his arrangement of the matter of Edrisi’s Africa; and for his invaluable Elucidations, and Notes.[51]See Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172, where the impediments to the navigation are described. They do not appear to arise from differences in the general level, but to a ledge of rocks.[52]Thomson seems to have understood this, when he says,beneathprimevaltrees, that castTheir ample shade o’erNiger’s yellow stream.Summer, v. 705.[53]Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172. See his description of the navigation.[54]“I had a good deal of conversation with some men of a particular tribe of Mandingas calledNyalas. These are great travellers, and much respected by all the nations of Africa. It is fromthis nationthat all theGaungaysor workers in leather, come; and they are likewise employed as the speakers on all embassies: as they are not only good orators, but are so far privileged, that no one, not even kings, can take offence at any thing they say. Any one who travels with them, is sure of being protected; and, to use their own terms, they can pass between contending armies, who will defer the battle till they have passed. I inquired about Tombuctoo,” &c.—One of them said, that “about a month’s journey beyond Teembo, we should come to alarge Water, which our eyes would not be able to reach across; but which to the taste was sweet and good; that we should then coast along, touching at different towns for refreshment; but that there was one country inhabited by bad people, who would rob and murder us, if they could; where we should not stop, but keep far out, at a distance from the shore;” &c. They engaged to carry him thither for the price offour slaves. [Watt’s Journal, MS. p. 181.]

[39]Meaning Serra Leona, &c. &c.

[40]Prolegomena.

[41]Abulfeda in effect,literallymeantsouthward; for, like Ptolemy, and Strabo, he had no idea that the coast of Africa projected to thewestward, beyond the Straits, but rather supposed it to trend to theeastwardof south.

[42]When the above is considered, we can understand that Abulfeda supposed the bays of Benin and St. Thomas to be 11 or 12 degrees more to theeast, than they really are; and he might well suppose that “the sea came in at the back of the mountains that gave rise to the Nile.”That theNile of Egypt, and not theNiger, is meant, we learn in another place in the same author, where he speaks of theEgyptianNile, and traces it to Egypt. Prolegomena, article Rivers.

That theNile of Egypt, and not theNiger, is meant, we learn in another place in the same author, where he speaks of theEgyptianNile, and traces it to Egypt. Prolegomena, article Rivers.

[43]Komri, or ratherKummeree, is the Arabic term forlunar; and is the adjective ofKummer, the moon. [Mr. Hastings.]

[44]The mountains of Kong were seen by Mr. Park; but no other part of the chain.

[45]African Association, 1790, and 1791, quarto ed. p. 117. 123; octavo, 176. 186. Also quarto, 174; octavo, 260.As two editions of this work are in the hands of the public, I have referred to both throughout this work; distinguishing them respectively by Q and O.

[45]African Association, 1790, and 1791, quarto ed. p. 117. 123; octavo, 176. 186. Also quarto, 174; octavo, 260.

As two editions of this work are in the hands of the public, I have referred to both throughout this work; distinguishing them respectively by Q and O.

[46]The Rio Grande has its source very far to the south of this chain; first running to the north, till it touches the foot of this very ridge of mountains, by which it is turned to the west. [Vide Mr. Watt’s Plan and Journal.]

[47]The caravan in question was composed chiefly of slaves going from Manding to the ports of the Gambia.

[48]There is in Africa, a rainy season; and also a periodical change of wind, as in the same latitudes in India: in effect, aMonsoon.

[49]It may be conceived that the Romans, who, according to Pliny, (lib. v. 4.), held the dominion of the countries as far as the Niger, penetrated to it by the route of Gadamis, Fezzan, Taboo, and Kassina, as the most direct, and convenient one, from the Mediterranean. There are very clear proofs of the conquest of the three former by Balbus. (Pliny, lib. v. 5.) It was known to Pliny that the Niger swelled periodically like the Nile, and at the same season; which we have also in proof from Major Houghton’sReport; and from Mr. Park’sObservations. Pliny says, moreover, that its productions were the same with those of the Nile. (Lib. v. c. 8.)

[50]In the Proceedings of the African Association, (Q p. 122; O. 183,et seq.) the river of Kassina is described to runto the west, andto pass on toTombuctoo; where it is said to be namedGnewa; possibly intended for Joliba, for thenandlare more commonly interchanged than themandn.[a]It will very probably turn out that there is an error in the above statement, and that it runs from W to E in the country of Kassina as well as at Tombuctoo. It would seem also to be a larger river in theeast, than in thewest; a presumption in favour of an easterly course. But perhaps, the best argument is, that it certainly runsfromTombuctoo to theeast. It must then either be one and the same river, or there must be a receptacle common to both, lying between Tombuctoo and Kassina! and we have not heard of any such. Much more will be said concerning this subject, in the latter part of the Memoir.[a]Abderachman Aga calls it Gülbi; (or Julbee). Hartmann’s Edrisi, quarto ed. p. 22.It is incumbent on me to acknowledge the obligations I owe to M. Hartmann, for his arrangement of the matter of Edrisi’s Africa; and for his invaluable Elucidations, and Notes.

[a]Abderachman Aga calls it Gülbi; (or Julbee). Hartmann’s Edrisi, quarto ed. p. 22.It is incumbent on me to acknowledge the obligations I owe to M. Hartmann, for his arrangement of the matter of Edrisi’s Africa; and for his invaluable Elucidations, and Notes.

[a]Abderachman Aga calls it Gülbi; (or Julbee). Hartmann’s Edrisi, quarto ed. p. 22.

It is incumbent on me to acknowledge the obligations I owe to M. Hartmann, for his arrangement of the matter of Edrisi’s Africa; and for his invaluable Elucidations, and Notes.

[51]See Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172, where the impediments to the navigation are described. They do not appear to arise from differences in the general level, but to a ledge of rocks.

[52]Thomson seems to have understood this, when he says,beneathprimevaltrees, that castTheir ample shade o’erNiger’s yellow stream.Summer, v. 705.

[52]Thomson seems to have understood this, when he says,

beneathprimevaltrees, that castTheir ample shade o’erNiger’s yellow stream.Summer, v. 705.

beneathprimevaltrees, that cast

Their ample shade o’erNiger’s yellow stream.

Summer, v. 705.

[53]Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172. See his description of the navigation.

[54]“I had a good deal of conversation with some men of a particular tribe of Mandingas calledNyalas. These are great travellers, and much respected by all the nations of Africa. It is fromthis nationthat all theGaungaysor workers in leather, come; and they are likewise employed as the speakers on all embassies: as they are not only good orators, but are so far privileged, that no one, not even kings, can take offence at any thing they say. Any one who travels with them, is sure of being protected; and, to use their own terms, they can pass between contending armies, who will defer the battle till they have passed. I inquired about Tombuctoo,” &c.—One of them said, that “about a month’s journey beyond Teembo, we should come to alarge Water, which our eyes would not be able to reach across; but which to the taste was sweet and good; that we should then coast along, touching at different towns for refreshment; but that there was one country inhabited by bad people, who would rob and murder us, if they could; where we should not stop, but keep far out, at a distance from the shore;” &c. They engaged to carry him thither for the price offour slaves. [Watt’s Journal, MS. p. 181.]

Construction of the Geography of Mr. Park’s Expedition into Africa.

Inextproceed to the detail of Mr. Park’s geographical materials. Should it be objected that I have been too diffuse and particular, in this part, I can only say, that since the information itself could not, from its nature be correct, it became the more necessary to investigate it closely, and also to place, not only theresultbut thedetailof the investigation, together with theoriginal documentsthemselves, in the form of notes, in the hands of the public, that the true grounds of the construction, might be known. For whether it may happen, that no further lights should ever be obtained, concerning the subject; or whether some other traveller, morefortunate(for he cannot possess more zeal, enterprize, temper, or firmness) should complete Mr. Park’s work; in either case, the original documents, as well as the mode of working them up, should be recorded; in theformer, that we may know how toappreciatethem; in thelatter, how best toimprovethem. The successor of Mr. Park, cannot have too extensive a knowledge of the detail of his predecessor’s work; in order that he may know what parts require correction; and how to avoid delays, from a useless attention to objects, that are already attained.

Two new Maps have been constructed for the occasion. Theonecontains theProgress of Discovery and Improvementin various parts of North Africa; theother,theGeographyof Mr.Park’s Expedition, as well as the result of his particular inquiries in the same quarter; on a more extended scale. Thepresentremarks and discussions refer particularly to the latter.

In the construction of this map, it is first required to state those points, on which Mr. Park’soutsetdepends; as also those which affect the positionof Fort St. Joseph, near to which he passed; as they differ from the maps in present use. And, as some positions in the journey of Mess. Watt and Winterbottom, serve very much to aid the improvement of the geography, it will be proper to speak of them also.

Cape Verd, and Fort St. Louis, at the mouth of the Senegal river, are placed according to the observations and results of M. Fleurieu.[55]

Jillifrey, on the Gambia river is, from the mean of the longitudes set forth by D’Anville, D’Apres, and Woodville, and which do not differ amongst themselves, more than 4½ minutes.[56]

The detail of the coasts, as well as the lower parts of the rivers between Cape Verd, and Cape Verga, are also from the charts of M. Woodville. That part between Cape Verd and latitude 18°, is adjusted to M. Fleurieu’s result of longitude, whilst the particulars are from D’Anville and Woodville.

The course of the Rio Grande from the sea to thebreaknear the river Dunso, is from Dr. Wadstrom’s map. The Dunso river, crossed by Mr. Watt, appears evidently to be a continuation of the same river; several branches of which flow from the south-east. And the high tract of mountainous land beyond it, is no doubt a branch of the great ridge above commemorated, under the name of Komri, in the work of Abulfeda.

The route of Mr. Watt is described from a sketch communicated by the late Mr.Beaufoy,[57]in which the scale appears, on a reference to the original journal, to be intended forBritishmiles. I have regarded themaccordingly; whence Laby and Teembo are placed much nearer to the coast, than Dr. Wadstrom’s map represents: for it appears by the Journal, that Kissey, at the head of the river of the same name, is no more than eight journies from Teembo. Nor has the map more than 120 geographic miles between them, admitting the scale to be British miles, as I have concluded.[58]

The nearest point in Mr. Park’s route falls at 112 G. miles to the northward of the extreme point of Mr. Watt’s; and the river Gambia lay nearly midway between them. Thus, the map of Mr. Watt forms a most useful point of comparison; and adds confirmation to the report of the natives, respecting the course of the Gambia; for Mr. Park was told, that it wascrossedin the way from the Falemé river, to Foota Jallo, of which Teembo is the capital.

Pisania, on the Gambia (called also Kuttijar Factory), the place of Mr. Park’s outset[59]is stated by D’Anville to be 170 G. miles above Jillifrey, by the difference of longitude; but by M. Woodville’s map, no more than 156; which answers better to the statement of the land journey; for Mr. Park was told that it was no more than 6½ journies of a messenger.[60]

Pisania then, is placed in longitude 13° 28′, according to this result; and in latitude 13° 35′ north, according to Mr. Park’s observation, by sextant.

The causes of theapparent wanderingsof Mr. Park having been explained in the former part of this work, it will be no farther necessary to trace his course, than merely to explain the connection of the different parts of thedatafor the general construction.

Since the scale of the Map is fixed by the computed distances arising on the intervals of time employed in Mr. Park’s route, it is possible that some readers may be startled at the idea of following such an apparently vague authority. Those, however, who have been much in the habit of observing their rate of travelling, will be easily convinced that distancesmay beapproximated; and those in particular who have been much accustomed to travel in countries, wheretimeregulates thedistance; or who have been in habits of working up geographical materials of this kind, will be the most easily convinced. It will of course be understood, that calculations of this kind can only be received from persons of judgment and experience: and also, that when opportunities of checking them, occur, they are always resorted to; after which, of course, no alternative remains, but to adopt the corrected distance.

In the present case, therate of travelling of camels,[61]does not apply; as Mr. Park’s journey outwards was made on horseback, and his return chiefly on foot. Nor are camels, indeed, in use in that line of route. The checks to be employed, are the number of journies reported by the travelling merchants, from different points of Mr. Park’s route to Sego and Tombuctoo; and also those from the quarters of Morocco, Tunis, and Fezzan, to Tombuctoo; using as a scale, the rate arising on the route between Fezzan and Egypt, Morocco and Jarra, as thebest knownlines of distance. These, altogether, furnish such kind of authority as will, I trust, lead to a satisfactory conclusion; as the general coincidence is certainly very striking.

My mode of procedure has been, to calculate, in the first instance,Mr. Park’s bearings and distances, and then to correct the bearings by his observed latitudes, as far as these extend: and beyond that, I have taken his bearing by compass, and allowed thesupposed quantityof variation.

The result of these calculations, together with the addition of his line of distance from Sego to Tombuctoo, was then compared with the popular report of the distance between the several stations of Woolli, Fort St. Joseph, Bambouk, and Tombuctoo. It was found that these reports did not materially differ from the aggregate distance given by Mr. Park; although they fell short of it; a difference which might naturally have been expected, and which I have ventured to alter. The difference, however, does not exceed twenty-four geographic miles; a mere trifle in African geography. The position of Tombuctoo, so obtained, differs only half a degree in latitude, and still less in longitude, from that arising from the intersection of the lines of distance from Morocco on the NW, and Fezzan on the NE: of which a particular account will be given in the sequel.

A great part of Mr. Park’s geographical memorandums are totally lost: but fortunately his bearings by compass during a great part of the way, are preserved. In other parts, he has preserved only the calculation of latitude and longitude, arising from them; which, however, of course furnish the means of obtaining the bearings, if necessary. As he omitted to take observations to determine the quantity of the variation of the compass, after he lost the means of correcting his course by observations of latitude, which was at Jarra, about midway in his route:[62]it becomes a question of some importance, what quantity to allow on those long lines of distance between Jarra and Silla; Silla and Manding.

It appears on inquiry, that the quantity of variation is no more known, any wherewithinthe continent ofAfrica, than within that ofNew Holland. And it happens moreover, that thelines of equal quantitiesof variation, do not run across Africa with that degree of regularity and parallelism, which takes place over great part of the Atlantic and Indian oceans (at least this is what appears clearly to my judgment): so that it became necessary to inquire, what quantity prevails in the surrounding seas; and what the generaldirection, as well as theparticular nature, andtendency, of the curves, of the lines of equal quantities?

The variation lines on the globe have occupied a good deal of my attention at different periods of my life, and therefore the application of such new observations as the assiduity and kindness of my friends had procured for me on this occasion, was less difficult, than if the subject had been new to me. A dissertation on the subject, would be out of place here; and therefore I shall only give the result of my inquiries, in abstract; after premising, that the theoretical part belonging to the interior of Africa, is founded on asupposed continuationof those lines of equal quantities, whosetendencyhas been already ascertained, in the surrounding seas. I am perfectly aware, that some may regard the assumption as too great: but they will no doubt admit, at the same time, that it is difficult to conceive a more probable arrangement: and what is much more to the purpose, is, that if we are compelled to abandon the system, in the gross, the quantity of variation in the line of Mr. Park’s travels, cannot be greatly different from what we have assumed. For, whether the line of 18° in thesouth Atlantic, be a continuation of that in thenorthAtlantic, or of that in theIndian sea, much the same result will follow: only that in the former case, the quantity will be somewhat greater.

Chartof theLinesofMagneticVariation,in the Seas aroundAfrica.Published by James Rennell May 18th. 1798.

Chartof theLinesofMagneticVariation,in the Seas aroundAfrica.

Published by James Rennell May 18th. 1798.

It would appear, that between the East Indies and South America, Europe and South Africa, there arefourdistinct sets of what may be termedconcentric curvesof variation lines, on the globe, and whose highest points of convexity are opposed to each other, within the great body of Northern Africa. The accompanying sketch will best explain it.[63]It would appear moreover, that from the place of opposition of these curves, in Africa, wherethe quantity of variation is 18°, itdecreaseswith great rapidity, and finally to nothing, in goingeastwardstoIndia, orsouth-westwardtosouth America: and that from the same point, itincreases, in goingNNW, towardsIreland, or to theopposite quarter, towards the coast ofCaffraria. But the change is not in any proportion so rapid in theincrease, in goingnorthorsouth, as in thedecrease, in goingeastorwest. Such are the outlines of this system; by which, if a person was to set out from Cape Verd, or Cape Blanco, to traverse Africa from WSW to ENE, to Upper or Lower Egypt, he would find at setting out, from 15½ to 16½ degrees of westerly variation, which would increase to 18° about the centre of the continent, and afterwards decrease to a less quantity than at his setting out. Mr. Park’s travels being comprized between Cape Verd and the centre of Africa, will therefore be in the quarter that has from 16 to 18 degrees; and the part more particularly, where, from the want of observations of latitude, we must depend on his compass bearings, nearer 18° than 17°.[64]I shall now proceed to the detail of Mr. Park’s materials.

Leaving Pisania, Mr. Park proceeded eastward to Medina,[65]the capitalof Woolli; and thence to the ENE, through the countries of Bondou, Kajaaga, and Kasson; the two latter of which are separated by the river of Senegal.

In his way, he took observations of latitude at Kolor, Koorkoorany, and Joag, on this side the river: by which means we are enabled to correct the parallels. Thedistanceatpresentis left as it stands in the Journal, with a view of correcting it afterwards. The result of these bearings and distances (the particulars of which appear below),[66]places Joag at 247 miles east of Pisania; and the latitude, by two different observations, was found to be 14° 25′.[67]

At Joag Mr. Park was informed that Dramanet, which is about 2½miles to theeastwardof Fort St. Joseph, was 10 miles to thewestwardof him. That fort is said to be in 14° 34′, or 9 min. north of Joag; so that it ought to lie to the north-west, rather than to the west: and accordingly, there is found, in the map in Labat,[68]a place named Gacouva, no doubt meant for Joag, on the SE of St. Joseph; and in point of distance answering to it. Other places in the same map of Labat, are also recognized in the route of Mr. Park; so that the connection between it and the French settlement on the Senegal, is very clearly made out; which is a circumstance of some importance in this geography.

It will appear that thereckoningkept by Mr. Park gave 89 min. difference of latitude between Pisania and Joag, whilst the observation gave 50 only. About 9 minutes may be placed to the account ofexcess of distance, and 30 will then remain, on the whole distance of 253 geographic miles. In other words, thedead reckoning, corrected by allowing 17 degrees of westerly variation, gave a course of E 20°½ N; which, however, by the observations of latitude, is shewn to be E 11°¼ N (or E by N) making a difference of 9¼ degrees. But this I regard as coming very near, considering the circumstances under which the reckoning was kept.

From Joag we accompany Mr. Park to Kooniakarry and Jarra. The reckoning between the two first gives about 23¼ min. difference of latitude, 55 of easting.[69]And hence the latitude of Kooniakarry will be 14° 48′ by account; but the observation taken at Jumbo, in its neighbourhood, giving only 14° 34′, the account is 14 to the north; equal to about a point and quarter in bearing. The same mode of correction hasbeen applied here, as in the former part of the route; that is, thewhole distancehas been (for the present) allowed; with the difference of latitude by observation; and hence Kooniakarry will fall 59½ geographic miles to the east of Joag.

The route from Kooniakarry to Jarra[70]may be divided into two parts; first, to Feesurah, a place ofobservation, south-eastward; and secondly, to Jarra, north-eastward.

The account to Feesurah agrees very nearly with the bearings and distance. The latitude by observation was 14° 5′, and the easting from Kooniakarry, corrected, 47 miles. Then, to Jarra, the account also agrees very nearly; the latitude was 15° 5′, that is, just one degree north of Feesurah; and the easting from thence 33 miles.

The aggregate of easting, between Joag and Jarra, is then 139½ miles.[71]

It may be observed, that throughout this journey, generally, the reckoninghas been to the northward of the observations; and that, by abouttendegrees on thewholetraverse, when 17 degrees of variation have been allowed. It will hardly be supposed that the difference arises from allowing too much variation bytendegrees; but it is singular, that the error should, in all cases butone, lie the same way. I do not by any means regard the error as considerable, circumstances considered:[72]nor is it of any consequence in the parts where the observations of latitude serve to correct it: as between Pisania and Jarra.

Mr. Park was plundered of his sextant at Jarra, which accident of course put an end to his observations of latitude; and thus, unfortunately, left the remaininghalf(very nearly) of his geography in a state of uncertainty, as to parallel. This point, therefore, must be regarded as the most advanced geographical station, that rests on anycertain basisof parallel. However, the remaining part of the route will not appear to be much out, when it is seen how nearly the bearing of Sego, as determined by Mr. Park, agreed with the line of direction pointed out from Jarra.

It is, no doubt, a favourable circumstance, that the instrument was not lost at an earlier period, and before the commencement of the intricate route between the pass of the Senegal river and Jarra; to which may be added, the advantage of aknown parallel, from whence to set off the very important bearing of Tombuctoo. In effect, the bearing was pointed out from Benowm, but this place being nearly east from Jarra, and the bearing in question E ½ N, no error of any magnitude can be looked for.

Jarra (called also Yarra), has already appeared in the Maps drawn for the Association, and was originally taken from M. Delisle’s Map; but was neglected, or overlooked, by M. D’Anville. In the former Map it was placed somewhat more to the west, and in a higher parallel by about ¼ of a degree.

Between Jarra and Wassiboo, Mr. Park’s reckoning, as it appears wrought up in his table of day’s works, gives 41 min. diff. of latitude N, and1° 31′ diff. longitude E; which reduced to departure, in miles, is 89, and produces a course of E 26° S. But he allowedno variationafter he left Jarra: and as I allow 17°, the course must be taken at E 9° S, distance 96½ geographic miles. From this arises a diff. lat. of 16′ only; departure 95: and, hence, Wassiboo should be in latitude 14° 49′, and 95 east of Jarra.[73]

Mr. Park was so lucky as to preserve his original bearings,[74]betweenWassiboo, and Diggani (a place about 15′ short of Sego); andthese alone, out of all that were taken during the route. These give a course of E 27°½ S, 174 geographical miles; so that when 17° of variation are allowed, the true course will be E 10½ S; the diff. lat. 31,7; departure 171,1; whence Diggani should be in lat. 14° 17′, and 266,1 east of Jarra.

Between Diggani and Sego (returning again to the table of latitude and longitude), Mr. Park’s account gives E 43 S 15′; or corrected E 26 S, which gives diff. lat. 6,6; departure 13,5: so that Sego, the capital town of Bambara, falls, by this account, in lat. 14° 10′ 30″ and 279,6 east of Jarra.[75]

In this position, it bears E 10½ S from Jarra, distant 284 geographical miles. It is important to mention, that whilst at Jarra, the bearing of Sego was pointed out to Mr. Park by compass, ESE, or E 22°½ S. His route made it E 27°½ S, or 5° more to the south. This difference, so trifling in a distance of about 330 of our miles, on a straight line (in other words, the distance from London to Edinburgh), is not worth investigating. If we could suppose the report of the natives to be true, it would place Sego nearly 25 minutes more to the north. For my own part, I do not believe that any person, from mere judgment, unassisted by geographical records, and so far removed as to be out of the hearing of cannon, and of the view of conflagrations (two circumstances that aid the most in fixing the line of direction between distant places), could ever come nearer thanseveraldegrees of the bearing of two places that are 330 British miles asunder.[76]

Having at length reached the banks of thelong sought forriverNiger(orJoliba), near which the city of Tombuctoo stands, Mr. Park proceeded along it several days’ journey, towards the city in question, on a course E 15½ N by compass, but corrected E 32½ N 70 G. miles; which giving a diff. lat. of 37½, departure 59, places Silla, the extreme point of his expedition, in latitude 14° 48′; and longitude by reckoning 0° 59′ westof Greenwich; but, as will be hereafter shewn, when corrected, 1° 24′ west. Here, then, terminates his journey eastward, at a point somewhat more than 16 degrees east of Cape Verd, and precisely in the same parallel. The line of distance arising from this difference of longitude is about 941 G. miles, or 1090 British, within the western extremity of Africa; a point which, although short by 200 miles of the desired station, Tombuctoo, the attainment of which would unquestionably have been attended with greateclat, was yet far beyond what any other European, whose travels have been communicated to the European world, had ever reached.[77]

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