CHAPTER XI.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.

Trade of the Arru Islands.—Chief Productions.—Trepang.—The Island Vorkay.—The Pearl Fishery.—The Arafuras of Kobroor and Kobiwatu.—Duryella, the capital of Wama.—The Schoolmaster.—Homage paid by the Natives to M. Kam.

Formany years since the inhabitants of the Arru Islands have been uncontrolled by Europeans, and have been without Christian instructors, so that they have advanced but little in civilization. They have also been considerable sufferers from not having the protection of the Dutch authorities, as the Bughis and Macassars, who come here to trade, are great extortioners, and appeared more in the light of plunderers than of friendly traders; which, indeed, is the case with all the people of India when they are the strongest, and are not controlled by our Government.

The Arru Islands have, however, always been much visited by native merchants, chiefly on account of the trepang, tortoise-shell, edible birds'-nests and pearls which they afford. It will be useful here to give rather a full account of the first of these products, since it is from this that the natives derive the greater part of their riches.

The trepang, which is a species ofholothurie, is found chiefly on banks composed of clay mixed with fine sand, and covered with slimy sea-weed, which, at low water, appears above the surface of the sea. Those engaged in the trade are acquainted with no less than twenty different sorts, besides which there are several others which are not eatable, having a very bitter taste. The different sorts are arranged in the following order:—

1.Trepang Passir, or sand trepang, which is found on banks composed chiefly of sand, is considered the best, being much in demand at Kouding, Aring, and Macassar. The price it usually fetches is one hundred and sixty guilders the picul. The different sorts which follow decrease in value from this, until the lowest is thirty guilders the picul.

2.Trepang batu.These have a bluish tinge, and it is necessary to cut them through the thickest part, or they cannot be properly dried.

3.Trepang corro.This is also cut open, and the entrails removed.

4.Trepang pandang.

5.Trepang nanas, or pine-apple trepang, is covered over with spines like the fruit whose name it bears.

6.Trepang itam, or black trepang.

7.Trepang kossong, white with black speckles.

8.Trepang buang kulit, from which it is necessary to strip off two thin skins which cover it.

9.Trepang kay Java.

10.Trepang Marigi.This is obtained on the coast of New Holland, and is boiled up with the bark of thekayu bankudu, which imparts to the animal a red colour, and preserves it dry for a long period.

11.Trepang donga.

12.Trepang kunyit.

13.Trepang gama.

14.Trepang taai konkong.

15.Trepang bilala.This is black, and the only species that is flat.

16.Trepang massee.

17.Trepang katjang goreng.This is small, and is also cured with the bark of thekayu bankudu.

18.Trepang kuwas.

19.Trepang puti.This sort is small, and of a whitish colour.

After the trepang is caught, it is immediately boiled in sea-water, in which the leaves of the papya are steeped, to take off a thin skin which covers it. It is then placed in baskets or holes, and covered up with earth until the following morning, when it is washed repeatedly to deprive it as much as possible of the disagreeable taste of coral which it possesses, after which it is spread out on mats, and dried. Even then it is not entirely free from the unpleasant flavour which is peculiar to all holothuries or polypes, for which reason the Chinese, before making it up into soups or ragouts, boil it with sugar-cane.

The Arafuras sell the trepang to the Bughis and others by the ukur, a measure containing about half a picul. The traders sort the trepang, there being a great difference in the value of the various kinds. The price of the first sort in China is one hundred and twenty Spanish dollars the picul, while the various sorts mixed together can be purchasedat the back of the islands, as the eastern parts are called, at the rate of ten to fifteen Spanish dollars the picul. The number of the traders, who now visit the Arrus, has caused the price of this article to increase considerably above that which was formerly given. When the people of Banda had the trade exclusively in their hands, a picul of trepang might be obtained for a sarong, or piece of cloth of the value of eight guilders, and twenty birdsnests for a chopping-knife; while now the latter, which will weigh less than a kati, or 1-1/4lb., cannot be purchased for less than from fourteen to eighteen guilders. These articles would, however, still yield a large profit were it not necessary to remain among the Arrus for a period of four months to collect a cargo of any importance. On this account small brigs and paduakans only are employed in the trade, as their expense is less than that of larger vessels.

Vorkay, an island lying exposed to the ocean at the south-eastern extremity of the group, is of great importance from its pearl fishery. At a distance of eight miles to the eastward lay several small islands, between which and Vorkay the trepang banks are situated. At low water hundreds of men, with their wives and children, may beperceived wading from Vorkay towards these islets, (the water being only two or three feet deep,) carrying a basket at their backs, and having in their hands a stick provided with an iron point. When the water is deeper than this, they make use of canoes. For fishing on the banks situated at a greater distance, the Arafuras use a prahu, constructed for the purpose, in which they embark their entire family. These vessels have a very strange appearance. They have great beams, and the stern runs up into a high curve, while two planks project forward from the bows. The family resides in three or four huts, composed of atap or palm leaves, erected within the vessel, and a railing runs entirely round it, apparently to prevent the children from falling overboard. The prahu is propelled by a large sail made of rushes, which folds up like a fan, (in a similar manner to the sails of the Chinese junks), set upon a tripod mast of bamboos, while it is steered by two rudders. Two other masts are also erected, which answer no purpose but that of displaying several small flags.

As I have already stated, it is almost impossible for a large ship to approach the eastern side of the Arrus, as in all parts banks and reefs stretchfar out to sea. There are, however, a few small openings, through which a brig may enter; but it is absolutely necessary to have an Arafura pilot on board.

Among the chief villages on Vorkay, are Old and New Affara, Longa, Uri and Goor, before the last of which lies a great pearl bank. The natives informed me that it was exhausted, and that they had not fished it for two years; but this was probably a mis-statement, which they were induced to make owing to the difficulties attending the fishery. They said that they only obtained from it large mother-of-pearl shells for the Chinese market, and that they did not find pearls inside them. The true pearl oyster is small, with a thin shell.

The pearl fishery is carried on in the following manner. The trader makes an agreement with the Arafuras for so much a hundred, paying an advance of a certain quantity of arrack, cloth, &c. When the price is agreed on the fisher goes to the bank, and dives for the oysters, which are mostly small and black, in from twenty-four to thirty feet water, selecting the best he can find. The diving is attended with much difficulty and danger, as, from the time he remains under water, the blood often bursts from the nose andmouth of the diver, while he is also liable to be destroyed by the numerous sharks which are to be found there.

The chiefs informed me, that in the time of the (Dutch) East India Company, the pearl fishery was carried on by their order;[28]but when the Arafuras found themselves becoming more and more independent of the Christians, and the chiefs were no longer incited by our Government to carry it on, it was very naturally discontinued, as the labour attending it is much greater than that of the trepang fishery. Small quantities of pearls are still obtained in shallow water for the Bughis traders, but these are of little value, and are chiefly disposed of to the Chinese, who use them as an ingredient in some of their medicines.

On one occasion we met with a prahu from the Kabroor Islands (at the east side of the Arrus), the people in which were superior in appearance to the trepang fishers of Vorkay. They had clearer skins than the latter, and their hair, which was also much finer, was very neatly dressed, and adorned with beads. Their weapons, and the ornaments of their prahus, displayed great taste.The strangers, who called themselves Arafuras of Borassi, had abundance of food with them, together with several hunting dogs.

During the year previous to my visit, when the Governor-General Baron Van Der Capellen visited the Moluccas, he sent two schooners of war, theDaphneandPolluxto the Arrus, to enquire into the condition of the people. The arrival of M. A.J. Bik, who was at the head of this expedition, had given rise to a hope among the natives that the Government would take an interest in their affairs, so that my visit naturally excited much joy among them. They welcomed us in the most friendly manner, kissed our hands, and expressed the greatest joy when I informed them of the object of my visit, and of the purpose of our Government to take them again under their protection. The frank and kind manner in which men and women, heathens as well as Christians, came forth to meet us, was truly striking and impressive, the more from these innocent people being, unlike many others of the Indian races, entirely free from dissimulation. Even the children crowded around to kiss us.

On the afternoon of my arrival I went on shoreaccompanied by M. Kam and several other gentlemen, to the village of Wanla, which is erected on a point of limestone rock, about thirty feet above the level of the sea. It contains only ten or twelve poor and small houses; but the stone church, which also overhangs the sea, was in very good condition. Wanla is a dependence of Duryella, the capital of Wama, but is under the immediate control of an Orang Tua.

In several places we saw prahus hauled up on the beach, which are hired to the traders during the time they remain among the islands. In the interior we saw a number of sago trees, the pith of which constituted the chief food of the natives. The ground, generally, is by no means fertile, and in many parts is overgrown with underwood, there being but few spots calculated for the cultivation of rice.

On Sunday, the 28th of August, I set out for Duryella, our road, which lay along the beach, being almost impassable from the number of trees which had been thrown up by the sea during the westerly monsoon. If the inhabitants were rather more industrious they would cut a road through the beautiful forest which runs down close to thesea. Among the trees which lined the shore I recognized thekanari, thekatapan laut, thetutun, theyamplon,[29]thecasuarina, and thebua-raja, the last of which bears much resemblance to the Javanese fern orpohon paku, the leaves having a beautiful green colour; the fruit, when dried and pounded fine, is often used instead of flour in the composition of pastry.

After an hour's walking we arrived at Duryella, where we were received with much solemnity under a salute oflelahs. The village, which is well built and kept in very good order, forms nearly a square. On the beach opposite, a stage was erected on a high tree, on which severallelahswere mounted; this was formerly used for their protection, when the inhabitants were at war with the people of Wadia; but since peace had been made between them by M. Bik, the fortification had been allowed to fall into disrepair.

The house of the Orang Kaya, Jacob Barend, in which we were received, answered also for afort. It was erected on high piles of iron-wood, and consisted of several rooms, in which the numerous family of the Orang Kaya took up their residence. The remainder of the houses, which formed the village, were smaller, but constructed after the same manner; and the neat little church was kept in good order. The schoolmaster, who resided here, appeared to do his best in instructing his fellow Christians. These teachers, who also perform divine service, are usually young natives of Amboyna, who, after having undergone a course of instruction, are sent among the neighbouring islands without salaries, and being therefore dependent on the natives for support, they are sometimes, from want of the protection of the Government, in very necessitous circumstances. The hope of being relieved and settled at Amboyna, after having been employed as missionaries a few years, renders them very willing to undertake this office, which would otherwise be a truly great sacrifice on their part, as none can feel greater reluctance to leave their homes for a long period than the inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago in general.

M. Bik, on fixing two Amboynese teachers here, whom he brought with him, promised them asalary, and also to supply them now and then with necessaries, as occasion might offer. I therefore considered it my duty to advance them some money and clothes, while at the same time I suggested to the inhabitants that they ought regularly to contribute something to the support of these useful men. The teachers pride themselves on their descent as Amboynese, and are uncommonly neat in their dress. I never saw one otherwise than well clad, wearing a three-cornered hat, a black coat of cloth or cotton, small-clothes of the same materials, with shoes, and black silk or cotton stockings. The teacher at Wokan was married to the daughter of the Orang Kaya, and was as much respected as he was esteemed. Their usual employment consists in instructing the children in reading and writing the Malay language (Roman letters, not the Arabic characters, being used), and in initiating them in the rudiments of the Reformed Religion. They rarely, however, acquire a full insight into the last, as the young people are forced to leave school at an early period, that they may assist their parents in their avocations. He also performs divine service every Sunday, during which he reads passages from the Bible, and the community under his direction sing psalms inthe Malayan tongue,[30]the service being usually closed with a discourse on the precepts and duties of Christianity.

We tarried a considerable time at the residence of the Orang Kaya, where a number of people had assembled, among whom were the chiefs of the neighbouring villages, who had come to welcome us and pay their respects. This afforded me a good opportunity of breaking to them the object of my visit; and as I wished to make as much impression on their minds as possible, I arranged that a general meeting should be held on Wokan on the 29th of August, when the business might be entered into more fully. M. Kam, also, to the great satisfaction of the Christians, held a long communication with them on religious subjects, and about fifty of the natives were baptized on the occasion. After this ceremony had been completed, amid the greatest attention and propriety of conduct, we amused ourselves in examining the gardens in the vicinity, the people appearing to be much pleased at our visiting their dwellings.

Early on the following morning I despatched two of the boats, with a portion of my party, to Wokan, and at eight o'clock, by which time a large number of prahus had collected around the brig, I also departed in a third boat, accompanied by M. Dielwaart, under a salute from our guns. The large number of prahus, with which the chiefs accompanied us, presented a very imposing appearance. As we approached Wokan, a salvo was fired from a one-pounder gun, which we had in the boat, and on stepping ashore we were received with military honours by the twenty-eight armed European seamen who had preceded us, which, doubtless, made a proper impression on the Orang Kayas who awaited us on the beach.

We now proceeded to the fort, from which shots were occasionally fired, while the people welcomed us with loud shouts of joy. Especial homage was paid to M. Kam, who subsequently arrived from Wama, as soon as he had stepped on shore; the schoolmaster, and a number of young men and women assembled around him, and commenced the twenty-fifth psalm, singing which they accompanied him until he arrived among us. They then placed themselves respectfully behind the clergyman, and after the psalm was finished they rested awhile, andprepared to commence another; but as I wished to finish my affairs as soon as possible, and at the same time was desirous of avoiding giving offence to the Mohammedan chiefs who were present, I requested them to defer it to another occasion. The Christian inhabitants of these parts take great delight in singing psalms, and they practice much: they know many of them by heart. Their respect for the Bible is also very great, and they preserve the portions of scriptures, which they formerly received, with as much care as if they were costly jewels. This betokens a strong inclination and capacity on their part to increase their acquaintance with our religion, and this trait in their character may, with a little attention, be made a powerful instrument in improving their condition.

FOOTNOTES:[28]The pearls obtained were chiefly sent to Japan.—Ed.[29]This large tree bears a yellow nut, which, when stripped of its husk and pounded, is mixed up with cotton and simmered over the fire in an iron pan, until it becomes an oily pap. Strips of cocoa-nut leaves, or small sticks of bamboo, are steeped in this, and thus formed into flambeaux, which give a clear light and are used by the islanders instead of candles.[30]Our useful countryman, G.H. Werndly, cannot be sufficiently praised for his Malayan translation of the Old and New Testament, and also of several psalms, which he has rendered into Malayan verse.

[28]The pearls obtained were chiefly sent to Japan.—Ed.

[29]This large tree bears a yellow nut, which, when stripped of its husk and pounded, is mixed up with cotton and simmered over the fire in an iron pan, until it becomes an oily pap. Strips of cocoa-nut leaves, or small sticks of bamboo, are steeped in this, and thus formed into flambeaux, which give a clear light and are used by the islanders instead of candles.

[30]Our useful countryman, G.H. Werndly, cannot be sufficiently praised for his Malayan translation of the Old and New Testament, and also of several psalms, which he has rendered into Malayan verse.

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