CHAPTER XII.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.

Gathering of the People at Wokan.—Religious Exercises of the People.—Their singular Mode of Dress.—The Church.—The Fort.—State of Christianity on Wokan.—Dobbo, an important Trading Place.—Commercial Advantages that may be gained there.—Valuable Fishery.—The Pilandok.—Ludicrous alarm of the Arafuras.

Onthe following morning I informed the assembled chiefs of Wokan of the object of my mission to those parts, namely, to take the inhabitants under the protection of the Dutch Government; to renew the mutual friendship which formerly existed between them;[31]to incite them to carry on moretrade, especially with Banda and Amboyna; to confirm the chiefs in their authority; and to promote the welfare and prosperity of these islands and their inhabitants.

After the meeting had been broken up, our party, together with the chiefs of the villages, were invited to dinner by the daughters of the Upper Orang Kaya. The table was spread with a number of well cooked dishes. The wine which I had brought for the entertainment of the chiefs, with the arrack for those of lesser rank, added not a little to the festivity. I remarked on this occasion, that three Orang Kayas, after having drunk a tolerable quantum of wine, finished a bottle of arrack without either of them showing any signs of inebriety. An unsparing use of spirituous liquors may be considered as the greatest vice of the inhabitants of the Arrus, both Christians and Arafuras. The traders bring here large quantities of arrack, together with an inferior kind of aniseed, on which they obtain a very large profit. The natives themselves distil a spirit from sago and rice.

After dinner the people were busily employed in arraying themselves in their best clothes, to attend divine service. Coats and breeches, probably the manufacture of the previous century, were broughtto light out of their chests, and from the smoke of their fires, where they had been hung up to preserve them from insects. Among the presents given to the chiefs by M. Bik the previous year, were several pieces of black cloth, which the former had made up with their own hands into coats, &c., after the model of the old-fashioned smoked clothes above-mentioned, using coarse white thread in the construction. The remnants of the cloth had been made up into head-dresses in the form of night-caps. I set the ship's tailor to work altering their coats, to the no small delight of the chiefs.

The church, situated on the south side of the village, is a handsome and strong stone building, and although the doors and windows are wanting, it is otherwise kept carefully in order. On each side of the entrance are benches and reading desks for the men, while a number of old-fashioned carved chairs, certainly a century and a half old, were placed in the centre for the women. Here and there gravestones might be perceived, the inscriptions on which had become illegible. Their dead are not now interred in or near the church, but are deposited in an enclosed cemetery, some distance to the north-east of the fort. The tomb-stoneshere are ornamented in different ways, and it is a strong proof of the good disposition of these people, that the tombs of the officers of the late East India Company, who have died here, are kept in as good order as those of their own chiefs and forefathers.

Early on the following morning, the 30th of August, I was requested by the natives to allow M. Kam to hold another religious meeting on this day, that a number more of them might have an opportunity of being married and christened. I willingly gave my consent, and promised to be present with my European fellow-voyagers.

On the previous day I had remarked, that the pulpit was ornamented by a curtain formed of a piece of silk. By way of giving the congregation an agreeable surprise, I caused the teacher to suspend in its place a large covering of fine silk, ornamented with the arms of the King of the Netherlands. The sight of this, on their entering the church, had a great effect on the people, who loudly expressed their thanks for this attention; so that I became convinced that this present of the Government could not have been put to a better use.

During the morning several of the seamen asked my permission to attend the church, that theymight become baptismal witnesses to some of the natives who had requested their services; this I willingly allowed, cautioning them however to maintain the strictest propriety of conduct. On entering the church, where a large congregation was assembled, we found chairs and benches prepared for our accommodation. The Upper Orang Kaya and his wife requested me to stand godfather to their daughter, who was to be christened Diderika Hendrika; indeed, nearly all the congregation underwent this ceremony, even people who had attained the age of forty years. Among those who were united in matrimony, were many couples who had already lived, for a long period, in a state of wedlock; in fact, several cases occurred in which parents and children were married at the same time. On only one occasion was there any confusion, and this was caused by a ludicrous accident happening to the dress of a young bridegroom, who had arrayed himself for the ceremony in some old, worn-out, and smoke-dried clothes, which, above all, were too small for him. This was too much for any gravity to endure, and the young ladies especially could not restrain their merriment; but a friendly hand tendered the unlucky youth a sarong, in which he would gladly have envelopedhimself entirely to conceal his confusion. To add to the solemnity of the occasion, several German flutes had been brought to accompany the psalms, the natives, especially the women, being extremely fond of the music of this instrument. At the request of M. Kam, my Amboynese piper attended to play second; but although the poor youth did all he could with hands and feet, he was unable to keep in tune, so that we were soon obliged to put a stop to thedisconcerto.

The ceremony was extremely long, but the attention shown by the audience was truly exemplary; indeed, in the mother country I have seen a congregation asleep from weariness at a much shorter service, so that in this respect our countrymen and countrywomen may learn an example from the simple inhabitants of the Arru Islands. Even after the service they assembled at the house of the teacher, and sang several more psalms; the newly married couples being also ceremoniously congratulated on the joyful occasion. While they were thus employed, I took the opportunity of paying a visit to the ruins of the fort.

This fort, which is now in state of great dilapidation—patches of a wall, which was once three feet thick and twenty feet high, alone remaining—formeda square, with bastions at the corners; but of the latter nothing was now visible, some posts having been erected in their place, on which severallelahswere mounted. The house of the Orang Kaya, which stands in the centre, is the only part in good repair. The natives were very desirous of having a Dutch garrison again among them, in which case they would willingly set to work and put the fort into complete order.

Several of the Mohammedans, who had been driven out of the village, formerly resided a little to the northward; but these have now put themselves under the rule of the Christians, with whom they live on good terms.

I passed the afternoon in settling the affairs of the natives, the chiefs of the neighbouring villages being present. Bernard Herman was appointed as Upper Orang Kaya, with the promise of a golden-knobbed baton. The chiefs of Wadia betrayed considerable jealousy, and requested me to do them the same honour I had conferred on the people of Wokan; I therefore promised that I would visit their head village with the brig, at which they appeared to be well contented, and departed for their homes to make ready for our reception. Among the Government presents whichI gave to the Orang Kaya were two Dutch flags, on which they set a high value; in addition to which I left in his hands some trifles for the Arafuras of the islands at the back of the group.

At the conclusion of these ceremonies I sent both boats on board the brig, the remainder of our party intending to stop the night at the house of the Orang Kaya. During our stay the seamen occupied a house which had been prepared for their reception, where they were abundantly supplied with provisions.

To the northward of the chief village of Wokan there are several small villages, the most important of which, Samau, is inhabited by Mohammedans, who are under the control of the people of the capital. The chiefs of the western islands extend their authority over the Arafuras, each chief having several villages under his rule, the inhabitants of which paid a willing obedience to their governors while they were supported by our Government, who, for this purpose, had only about ten European or Amboynese soldiers on the islands, the serjeant of the party being the commanding officer. The Arafuras then considered themselves obliged to give an account of all their actionsto the Christian chiefs, to whom they also delivered up a portion of the profits of their trade. These heathens, in general, are much desirous of becoming converts to Christianity, and willingly allow their children to be instructed in its tenets; but for many years since there have been no teachers, much less missionaries or clergymen among them. Our religion has therefore retrograded, while Islamism, of which there are many priests here, has advanced considerably. This is much to be regretted; for, as I have already stated, a similarity in religious belief forms our strongest bond of union with the people of these countries. The Arafuras prefer Christianity to Mohammedanism, so that were proper measures taken much might be done, especially as they are better in their disposition than the heathen inhabitants of the islands we had previously visited.

Leaving Wokan on the 31st, I next visited Dobbo, a village situated on a spit of sand five hundred yards long, extending from the north-east side of Wama, and reducing the channel between the latter island and Wokan to about a mile. This spit affords shelter to the trading vessels, which anchor to the eastward or to the westward of it, according to the monsoon, andfourteen or fifteen sheds are erected upon it, under which they can be hauled up and repaired. It is very difficult to enter the harbour without a pilot, as steep reefs, dry at low water, extend a considerable distance from Wama and Wokan, forming a narrow and crooked channel, with a depth of eight, nine, and ten fathoms. The reefs, which are always visible in fine weather, extend farther from Wokan than from Wama, so that the channel lies nearest to the south shore. In the early part of the west monsoon several brigs from Sourabaya (Java), a number of paduakans from Macassar (Celebes), together with many other vessels from different places, among which are many small craft from the Ki Islands and Goram, visit this harbour, the greater part of which are hauled up on the beach during their stay, and covered over with sheds ofatap. The traders, with the assistance of the natives, erect houses wherein they reside and deposit their goods, the guns belonging to their vessel being planted around it. The traders remain here until the month of June, Dobbo, during their stay, having the appearance of a very populous place. The traders, immediately on their arrival, hire vessels from the inhabitants, which they send with a portion of theircrew to the more distant islands, to purchase trepang, edible birds'-nests, and mother-of-pearl shell. The trade is conducted with great regularity, and if differences now and then occur, they are always put an end to by the mediation of the Orang Kaya. The commanders of the trading vessels pay a certain quantity of arrack and cloth as anchorage dues and ground rent, and although the amount paid by each is small, the number of traders is so great as to render this an important source of income to the inhabitants. Soon after the departure of the traders Dobbo is abandoned for the season, the old houses being burnt by the natives that they may have to build new ones the following year, and thus increase their gains.

This spit offers a good situation for the erection of a small fort, the wells upon it supplying good fresh water, while the high beach is open on both sides to the sea-breeze. According to the universal testimony of the natives, this spot is very healthy, and although the sea is disturbed by the number of vessels, it affords abundance of fish. A party sent here from the brig to fish with the seine, obtained at three hauls, a sufficient quantityof kakap (a sort of cod), and other delicate fish, to half fill the boat.

As nothing is to be feared from the natives, I feel convinced that were a fort to be erected on this spot it would soon become a very prosperous trading place. At present the natives do not settle here in great numbers, as the foreign traders do not like them to reside among them. As soon as the traders have departed the people give themselves up to idleness, and only commence collecting produce a short time previous to their return. Neither do the foreign traders now like to settle on the islands, perhaps because they do not place much confidence in the people. I am convinced, however, that were a representative of the Dutch Government to reside here, it would soon become a highly prosperous place, and the harbour would never be without vessels in it.

I cannot avoid giving a short description of the Pilandok or Arru rabbits, an animal rather larger than the common rabbit, of a grey colour, which, as they grow old, becomes quite grizzly. The forelegs are short, and the hind ones, which resemble those of the hare, have each three toes, provided with strong nails. The head is likethat of a weazel. These animals do not run very fast, and when resting they usually sit upright on their hind legs. Their food consists of the leaves of the yam plant and other greens, and they are easily tamed, when they may be suffered to run around the house without their attempting to escape. The flavour of their flesh is very agreeable.

On the 1st of September, when at Duryella, I appointed the Orang Kayas to the islands of Wama and Maykor, to each of whom I presented a silver-knobbed baton, besides other government gifts, as pieces of cloth, flags, &c. Several of the chiefs of the more distant islands were also confirmed in their authority on the same occasion, many other affairs being also settled; among which was a reconciliation between the people of two villages on Vorkay, who for some time previously had lived in state of war with each other. The quarrel originated in one of the parties fishing too long on a reef which was their mutual property, and thus obtaining too large a share of its produce. It had already been provisionally adjusted through the mediation of the Christian chiefs, and was now submitted to me for my final decision. The offenders solemnly promised that they would nothereafter exceed their right, and the affair was settled to the satisfaction of both parties, who declared that they would henceforward live in peace and friendship with each other.

The greater portion of the Christian inhabitants of Maykor had come to Duryella, partly to attend to their own interests, and partly for the purpose of being present at the preachings of M. Kam, on which occasions a large number of people were admitted as members of the Christian Church. I occasionally invited the chiefs to dinner with me, which was always considered by them as a great honour, and they never failed to come attended by a numerous retinue, Arafuras as well as Christians, who crept on board from all sides in an instant. The chiefs of the more distant islands, not having been informed of my arrival, had come in their usual dress, the tdejako, or waist-cloth, as they never adorn themselves with their best clothing except on festive occasions. These chiefs were much ashamed of theirdeshabille, and made repeated excuses; but being informed of the cause, I rejoiced them by havingkabayasand breeches prepared for them, when they made their appearance with much greater confidence.

On one occasion a number of chiefs, who had dined on board, remained to spend the evening with me, many of whom, particularly the Arafuras, declared to me that they had never before been on board a ship of war. To give them a good idea of such a vessel I ordered several of the great guns to be fired, and although we had informed them of what was coming, they were terribly frightened, and it was truly ridiculous to see them jump into the air at every shot, like harlequins. Many of them, indeed, jumped overboard, while others hid themselves under the table which stood on the deck, and in any corner they could find. These islanders generally can carry off an inconceivable quantity of spirits. Although at our festive meetings on board more than thirty jugs of arrack were often drunk, they would still take a quantity on shore with them to finish the evening at home.

The prahus which are built upon these islands are very long, and sit low on the water, their length being seldom less than seventy feet, while their greatest breadth is not greater than ten feet. We saw about thirty of these lying under the shore, and had good opportunities for examining them. In the centre of them is a stage,on which they make a fire to cook their provisions. Whenever these vessels sail on a voyage they are adorned with a number of flags, some being displayed from the stern and others planted along the sides, the whole presenting a very gay appearance. These flags are triangular (perhaps in imitation of those of the Chinese), and of various colours, the prahus belonging to the chiefs being distinguished by the superior size and number of those they display. The inhabitants of the western Arrus obtain their prahus chiefly from the Ki Islands, these being stronger and broader than those constructed by the people of the Eastern Arrus. The Arafuras, when at sea, protect themselves from the rain, which they dislike greatly, by means of long bags open on one side, made from the bark of a tree. When the weather is fine, they roll these up and use them as a cushion to sit upon.

The abolition of the slave trade has not yet spread its beneficent influence to these parts; indeed, the export and import of slaves forms a considerable branch of commerce, &c.: so much so, that were it to be discontinued many of the inhabitants would become a prey to want. It must here be taken into consideration, that the words "slave" and "slave trade" have a very different signification here fromthat which they have in the West Indies, the people of the east regarding the slave trade as being, in a certain point of view, beneficial to the slaves themselves. Many, in fact, when in distress, offer themselves as bondsmen that they may obtain the necessaries of life. The natives, however, are well aware that this shameful trade is much disapproved of by our Government, and that the greatest object of their rule is to secure general freedom and prosperity to mankind, for which reason the slaveholders treat their people with humanity. These creatures are, therefore, less to be pitied than one would suppose; and it must be taken into consideration, that so long as agriculture and industry are so much neglected, the slave trade must be a source of subsistence to a great part of these islanders, by means of which they are held back from engaging in piracy, theft, and other vices, to which want and necessity would otherwise force them to resort.[32]

When M. Bik was here he was presented with two slave boys, to whom, as I was informed by the natives, he gave their liberty, and caused them to be sent back to their village. Shortly after the departure of this gentleman these liberated slaves fell into a state of great poverty, so that, to pay the debts they had incurred for provisions and necessaries, they had again pledged or sold themselves as slaves, and they now regard themselves as fortunate in having found a good master. On my asking them if they wished to become free again? they answered, that they would like it well if I would take them with me, and provide for their future maintenance, but that otherwise they would prefer living in their present state of servitude. I allowed my interpreter to redeem a couple of orphans who had been sold here by the Arafuras, and did not seem to have derived much good from their master, for which he paid eighty guilders. At their own request I took them with me to Amboyna, where,with the cognizance of the Government, I set them at liberty, so that they became in a condition to gain their livelihood by daily labour.[33]

On the 4th of September the chiefs of Maykor and Wama came to take their leave, and to present us with some stock and fruit, after which we weighed anchor and steered for the island Wadia. A number of prahus accompanied us a considerable distance, the natives in them displaying their friendship by the music of their gongs and songs of joy.

FOOTNOTES:[31]So early as 1640, F. Corsten entered into a treaty with the people of the Arrus, especially those of Wokan, Wadia, Wama, Duryella and Maykor, in which the latter agreed to acknowledge the supremacy of the Dutch East India Company. Afterwards, in 1645, the Fiscal Dorstman obtained from them an agreement to trade exclusively with Banda, while the monopoly of the pearl fishery was given to the East India Company.[32]M. Kolff, whose opinion upon this point is totally at variance with that of Sir Stamford Raffles, and of every other writer on the Indian Archipelago, who has really taken an interest in the welfare of the natives, appears to have mistaken effect for cause; as in this part of the world it has invariably been found that the slave trade alone has been sufficient to render a people, previously mild and industrious, poor, idle and vicious. As to the slave trade preventing the natives from engaging in piracy, M. Kolffmusthave been aware that by far the greater number of piratical expeditions fitted out by the natives are intended solely for the capture of slaves, other plunder being in their eyes of minor importance only; and this is especially the case in the parts visited by M. Kolff, where the inhabitants possess nothing of sufficient value to tempt the cupidity of pirates.—Ed.[33]The inhabitants of the Arrus and the adjacent island, are glad to obtain Dutch gold and silver coin, the greater part of which they work up into ear-rings and other ornaments.

[31]So early as 1640, F. Corsten entered into a treaty with the people of the Arrus, especially those of Wokan, Wadia, Wama, Duryella and Maykor, in which the latter agreed to acknowledge the supremacy of the Dutch East India Company. Afterwards, in 1645, the Fiscal Dorstman obtained from them an agreement to trade exclusively with Banda, while the monopoly of the pearl fishery was given to the East India Company.

[32]M. Kolff, whose opinion upon this point is totally at variance with that of Sir Stamford Raffles, and of every other writer on the Indian Archipelago, who has really taken an interest in the welfare of the natives, appears to have mistaken effect for cause; as in this part of the world it has invariably been found that the slave trade alone has been sufficient to render a people, previously mild and industrious, poor, idle and vicious. As to the slave trade preventing the natives from engaging in piracy, M. Kolffmusthave been aware that by far the greater number of piratical expeditions fitted out by the natives are intended solely for the capture of slaves, other plunder being in their eyes of minor importance only; and this is especially the case in the parts visited by M. Kolff, where the inhabitants possess nothing of sufficient value to tempt the cupidity of pirates.—Ed.

[33]The inhabitants of the Arrus and the adjacent island, are glad to obtain Dutch gold and silver coin, the greater part of which they work up into ear-rings and other ornaments.

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