DEPARTURE OF THE PIONEERS.—APRIL 7, 1847.
Arrival of Parley P. Pratt and John Taylor at Winter Quarters.—Organization of the Pioneers.—Manner of Forming Camp.—Horse Feed Enroute.—Pawnee Indians.—A Practical Joke.—Crossing Loup Fork.
On the outskirts of civilization, near the banks of the Missouri River, on the 7th day of April, 1847, might have been seen a large body of men and women anxiously gazing on a band of pioneers just taking their departure from wives and children, friends and neighbors, and setting out upon a perilous journey in quest of a resting place in the Rocky Mountains. In the hearts of wives and friends there was a strange mixture of fear and faith. What the outcome would be, none could foresee; and the probabilities of danger from the hostile red man were only mitigated by the fervent faith which had served them well in the trying ordeal of other troublous times through which the Church had passed. The pioneers were missionaries whose trust in the direction and care of an over-ruling Providence was uppermost in their minds.
Just to the west of Winter Quarters, there arises one of those rolling, undulating ridges which skirt the Missouri for many miles. When the top of this elevation was reached, Elder Woodruff took a parting view of the city, and through his field glasses he could see his wife and children whose lingering gaze followed the pioneers as long as they could be seen.
The first day's journey covered a distance of seven miles from Winter Quarters. Naturally enough, many things necessary for such a journey had been forgotten; some needed counsel had been overlooked; some words of caution had not been spoken. The leaders of the pioneers not only faced the uncertainties of a long and tedious journey, but they left behind them a large number of brethren and sisters whose welfare and unity might be greatly disturbed in the absence of those trusted leaders, whose counsels had been their watchword and whose leadership seemed necessary for their safety. Under these circumstances a few days passed before the company was well on its way.
In the meantime, Parley P. Pratt had just arrived from his mission to Great Britain, and the tidings which this prince of missionaries had brought from a foreign land were a matter of supreme importance to the Prophet Brigham Young who returned to Winter Quarters to greet the newly arrived missionary. During this time, Wilford Woodruff was exploring the neighboring country. The delay of President Young led him likewise to return to Winter Quarters. He was within a half mile of his home when he met the Twelve returning to the camp of the pioneers. With characteristic submission to order and discipline, he turned about without seeing his family and joined the brethren on their return.
The camp had scarcely been set in motion when news of the arrival of John Taylor from Great Britain caused the Twelve to return again to Winter Quarters. This time they were accompanied by Wilford Woodruff who succeeded in adding to his equipment another horse for the journey. These reunions in the midst of troublous times were heartfelt demonstrations of brotherly love and mutual good will. The importance of Elder Taylor's return was enhanced by the fact that he had brought with him two sextants, two barometers, two artificial horizons, one circle of reflection, and one telescope, which were highly valuable for the acquisition of important data along the journey. The next return of the leaders to the camp of the pioneers was final and the journey was taken up with renewed enthusiasm and a determination to move on unremittingly to the goal of their undertaking.
The first week of the journey was passed in reaching and crossing the Elk Horn River which flows into the Platte whose banks were soon to be, for most of the distance, the guide of the pioneers. It is a stream whose small tributaries were to give the Saints considerable trouble in their efforts to get their wagons and teams over the treacherous quicksands that were common along the banks of the Platte in eastern Nebraska.
It was during these early days that Jesse C. Little returned from the Eastern States mission. He brought with him presents for the Twelve from friends in the East. "Col. Kane had sent me a patent life preserver and a stop compass." Brothers Little,Rockwood, and Reading returned to Winter Quarters next morning (April 16), and the company continued four miles up the Platte. "Before we left this morning, the camp came together and was organized as a military body into companies of hundreds, fifties, and tens. Stephen Markham and A. P. Rockwood were appointed captains of hundreds." Of this organization Brigham Young was Lieutenant General and Wilford Woodruff was appointed captain of the first ten, an appointment which characterized the man. His nervous energy, his untiring effort, his prompt and ready action naturally fitted him for the leading captain.
"The camp consisted of seventy-three wagons, one hundred and forty-three men, three women, and two children, making in all one hundred and forty-eight souls. The general orders from Brigham Young for the camp were as follows: 'The whole regiment was to journey in a compact body as they were in an Indian country, and every man was to carry his gun loaded. The caplocks were to be shut on a piece of buckskin with the caps ready to slip on in an instant in case of attacks; for flint-locks, guncotton or tow was to be put in the pan and the powder flask kept handy to prime without delay. Every man was to walk by the side of his wagon and not to leave it except sent away by order.' The object of all this caution was to prevent accident, for strict discipline was necessary while traveling through a hostile Indian country.
"On Saturday, the 17th," continues Wilford Woodruff, "some traders came down from the Pawnees and camped with us over night; they had plenty of buffalo meat dried, and gave us what we needed, and informed us that we were in two days' drive of a large band of Pawnees.
"On the following morning President Young called the captains together and gave the following instructions: 'We were to start in the morning, two wagons abreast. All who were not driving teams were to carry their guns and walk beside the wagons, and no man was to go hunting or get out of sight of the wagons. In the morning the bugle was to be blown at five o'clock and the pioneers were to arise and pray, cook, eat, and feed the horses and start at the call of the bugle at seven o'clock. In the evening the bugle was to be blown at half past eight when all were to go to prayers in their several wagons and retire bynine o'clock. Each Saturday night we were to pitch what tents we had and prepare our camps for rest on the Sabbath.'
"On the morning of the 19th of April, Prof. Pratt took an observation and found the latitude to be 41 degrees 27 minutes and 5 seconds. The point of observation was on the north bend of the Platte, 10 1/2 miles north of where the Saints had crossed the river. It was while camping at this place that Elder Little overtook the Saints on his return from the Eastern States mission. On the evening of that day we camped near a grove of timber on the banks of the Platte where we formed a semi-circle. The river on one side was our defense, and one of the four wheels of each wagon was driven up to the back wheel of the wagon ahead of it, and all the horses and cattle were taken into the corral thus formed so that we might be secure against the Indians. There was a hard wind during the night and the morning was fair with a strong southwest wind which covered our wagons with sand dust."
At this season of the year, the grass was not sufficiently high and matured for suitable feed for the horses; and during the early part of the journey cottonwood trees were cut down in order that the horses might gnaw off the bark and browse from the limbs, a kind of food which the horses at this season of the year seemed to enjoy. The ration of corn for each horse was two quarts per day.
On Tuesday, the 20th, three islands in the Platte River were reached, the largest of which, including an area of about ten acres, was covered with timber. Thereafter for miles along the river there continued a chain of islands.
It was about this time that they approached the inhabited territory of the Pawnee Indians who were somewhat given to petty thefts, but not so dangerous as the Sioux. Here and there individual Indians of the Pawnee tribe would approach in concealment in the grass the horses of the pioneers and a few were stolen, presumably by the Indians. What caused the Pawness to gather in villages about 150 miles from the Missouri River was doubtless the presence of large herds of buffaloes, and the further fact that they were far removed from the outposts of civilization on that great river.
The question of food was, of course, an important consideration;and the existence of game at this stage of the journey gave rise to the appointment of a body of men to be known as the hunters. Among the names given, that of Wilford Woodruff does not appear, and yet he was a skilled hunter and fisher all his subsequent life, and the part he took in the buffalo chases indicates that he was an excellent hunter in fact, if not so named.
In the spring of the year, the rain and the wind produced a sort of raw weather which created a chilly sensation and consequent discomfort. In consequence of the rains, the streams were often swollen and means for crossing them had to be improvised. It was necessary, therefore, to send men in advance of the pioneers for the purpose of constructing bridges or selecting fords and making general observations respecting the lay of the country. On the 20th they crossed a small stream called Shell Creek. From this point Elders Woodruff and Pratt went ahead for the purpose of taking observations. That night they cut down cottonwood trees from the barks of which their horses fed.
The following day the ox-teams started at 7 o'clock, an hour in advance of the horses, and in the course of the journey an Indian made his appearance on a mound about five miles distant. He was mounted on a pony. He soon disappeared but in a short time again came in sight at a full gallop. As he approached the camp he was met by the brethren who shook hands with him in a friendly manner and with the seven others who had accompanied him. They were escorted through the camp that they might learn that there were no hostile intentions among the pioneers.
"At 12:30 we came in sight of seventy horses and mules, and soon in sight of a large Pawnee village on the north side of Loup Fork, and also one on the south side of it. We drove on by the village, and soon they began to sally out to meet us. We camped in the form of a half-moon, the bank of the river forming a parallel line in front. The Indians, numbering about two hundred on the south side of the river, came down to the shore. Some waded over and about seventy-five came into camp, including the grand chief of the nation, with many war chiefs. We met them and made them presents of four pounds of tobacco, fifteen pounds of lead, powder, fish-hooks, beads, flour, salt, etc., but still theywere not satisfied; considering our numbers, they thought they ought to have more. When we left the ground, the Indians appeared very dissatisfied, but we harnessed up our horses and drove on to Looking-glass Creek and camped at its mouth for the night on the bank of the Loup Fork.
"After our horses were turned out, we were called together; and in consequence of the dissatisfaction of the Indians, a guard of one hundred men was called for. The Quorum of the Twelve with nearly the whole camp volunteered to stand guard, one-half of them the fore part of the night, and a half the other part. We also had a picket guard of five men with their mules at each watch.
"I was one of the picket guards. We had a hard wind with rain in the afternoon which continued a portion of the time that I was on guard. I rolled myself up in my buffalo robe and let the wind and rain beat on me. We were released at about one o'clock and went to rest. No Indians appeared during the night.
"Looking-glass Creek was crossed fifteen minutes before nine on the day following, April 22nd, and a westerly course continued and Beaver Creek reached at noon. Prof. O. Pratt took the meridian observation of the sun by the sextant for the latitude which was found to be 41 degrees 25 minutes and 13 seconds. He also made other observations.
"We crossed Beaver Creek at half past two o'clock and traveled seven miles and came to the Pawnee missionary station and camped for the night. The bluff was skirted with oaks on the north side of the road in the hills. We kept out a guard through the night as we were in danger of the Sioux on the one side and the Pawnees on the other.
"While watering the horses at the creek at the station this evening, Brother George A. Smith's horse mired, pitched forward, and jumped on him, treading upon his feet and breast, and holding him fast in the mud until I caught the horse by the bit and backed him off. I was fearful that Brother Smith was badly injured, but found that he was not."
On the morning of the 23rd, the camp enjoyed some diversion in one of those practical jokes which characterize men traveling under similar circumstances. Some of the guards during thenight had fallen asleep, and when awakened, found their guns taken. Col. Markham had lost his hat. Fatigue from their duties and arduous labors made it difficult for men to remain awake when nature so persistently demanded sleep.
As the company made its way along Loup Fork River, a fording place was sought, as the purpose of the pioneers was to follow up the Platte into which Loup Fork emptied. In the evening a Pawnee missionary station was reached—a station which had been abandoned. There were several good log houses and considerable land under cultivation. Here they found large lots of old and new iron, all apparently left to ruin. A quarter of a mile below the missionary village was a government station where Father Chase had been employed as a government farmer at a salary of $300 a year. When, however, Major Harvey learned that Father Chase had joined the Mormons, he was dismissed from service. The Sioux had burned the government station houses and blacksmith shop, but had spared the missionary village. Some of the hay and fodder was used by the pioneers, but none of it was carried away. Some of the plows were taken on an account which Father Chase held against the government for arrears in wages, but a strict report to the government was ordered and the things taken were regarded as the property of Father Chase.
The crossing of Loup Fork was a mile-post on the journey; and the 23rd was a day of great anxiety to those who had been looking carefully for a suitable fording place from which they might drop down again on to the banks of the Platte.
"In the morning twelve of us started on horseback to search out a ford across the dangerous and troublesome Loup Fork of the Platte River. We went down the river some distance when several men waded across. They found the water so deep, and so much quicksand that we came to the conclusion to drive up to the old Pawnee village. So we returned to the camp and harnessed up our horses. My gray horse named Titus was sick, yet I started out with him, and the camp drove up with some difficulty to the old Indian village, or a little below it.
"The men commenced searching out a ford and found thewhole bed of the river one body of quicksand into which if a horse or wagon stopped it would begin to sink. We had two channels to cross and a sand-bar in the middle. The deepest water was from three to four feet and very rapid and about three hundred yards across. At some places the quicksand sank both man and beast instantly; and the more they struggled to get out, the more they would sink. Of course, we avoided such places as much as possible.
"As I led the van with my ten, being captain of the first ten, it fell to my lot to make the first trial. Prof. O. Pratt, having a pair of strong horses, went forward and I followed him. I had two yoke of cattle and my horses on my carriage with about ten hundred on it. As soon as I started, I immediately saw that the cattle did but little good, being slow and in the way, we would begin to sink. I jumped out of my carriage into the water up to my waist. About ten men came to my assistance with a rope and hitched it to the oxen and helped me in getting across the first stream, though with great difficulty. We stopped on a sand-bar out in the water, but my horses and wagon began to sink. By treading the ground a little, it would become a perfect quagmire, and though we were sinking in it, the men had to leave the wagon where it was and go to the assistance of Orson Pratt, who, in trying to cross the second stream, had sunk into a bed of quicksand, and all the men had to go to his relief to get his horses and wagon out. The horses were unhitched from the wagon, and the load taken out and carried to shore; the wagon was drawn out by the men.
"I took off most of my load in a boat and went through the second stream. I got two other wagons in the same way, but it was so difficult an undertaking that the rest of the camp would not follow us, so here we found ourselves on the opposite side of the river, six men of us, to spend the night, together with our horses and wagons to guard against the whole Pawnee band, who were then camped below us on the same side of the river, and it was supposed that they numbered six hundred warriors. We divided our company, putting three on guard at a time. Brother Pack, Orson Pratt, and myself went on guard the fore part of thenight. Although I had been in the water the whole afternoon, I stood guard in my wet clothing one-half of the night and slept in them the other half.
"When we had guarded our part of the night we were joined by five men from the camp who crossed in a boat. They were sent by President Young to assist us, making eleven of us in all, and we divided our force accordingly. The night, however, passed off in peace, with no disturbance from the hostile Indians.
"The morning was pleasant and Prof. Pratt took an observation on the south bank of the fording place of the Loup Fork. The latitude was found to be 41 degrees, 22 minutes, and 37 seconds. The camp on the other side was now busy devising plans to cross the river. They drew together timber and rails to build two rafts and began to put them together. Some of the brethren made another trial to cross with wagons by putting on several horse and mule teams. They went a little higher up than we did and got over with much less difficulty. The more the ground was trod in the water, the smoother and harder it grew, so the whole company turned their wagons back to the ford and abandoned the raft. By unloading one-half of the baggage, they could cross in safety; and they all crossed by doubling teams and by going back and forth until all were over. Each captain with his ten assisted the others across. In this way all Israel who were present went over the Loup Fork of the Platte River in safety without hurt to man or beast; and we felt thankful to God for His mercies and rejoiced that we were on the south side of the river.
"We all loaded up our wagons and drove four miles and camped for the Sabbath on the bank of the river; and after our wagons were arranged, the Twelve took a walk on the high table lands to make observations, through their glasses, of the surrounding country."
PIONEER JOURNEY CONTINUED, 1847.
Elijah Newman Healed.—Indians Attempt Theft.—Antelopes Killed. Encounter with Indians.—A Buffalo Hunt.—Meet Traders from Laramie.—A Decision To Keep the North Bank of the Platte.—Immense Herds of Buffaloes.—William Clayton's Mile Gage.—Letter Left for Next Company.—Description of the Rodometer.
The task of crossing Loup River had been accomplished safely and there was a general spirit of gratitude throughout the camp. The following day was the Sabbath, April 25th. Meeting was held and general instructions given respecting the observance of the Sabbath. It was on that day that Elijah Newman was baptized for the restoration of his health. He was afflicted by a black scurvy in his legs to such an extent that he could not walk except by aid of sticks and crutches. After the ordinance and confirmation, he returned to the camp without any help.
A number of hunters were appointed to go ahead of the camp in quest of game, seven to be horsemen; and ten, footmen. Here Elder Woodruff saw for the first time in his life either elk or antelope. Four of each appeared at different times on the opposite side of the river. Although he was not one of the hunters, the members of the Twelve were allowed to join those appointed. From later accounts, it will be seen that Elder Woodruff took an active part in the chase. From now on till the foothills of the Rocky Mountains were reached, a strict guard against the Indians was kept. Of the first early troubles with Indians, Elder Woodruff writes:
"Early in the morning, before the break of day, two Indians crept upon their hands and knees, approaching the camp to steal horses. They got within three years of the guard before they were discovered. The guard at first thought them to be wolves and snapped at them. They rose and ran. Two of the guards fired and four others rose out of the grass. The bugle was sounded and all arose to arms, but no more were seen then.
"I started out in the morning with the hunters. We saw eight deer and four antelopes, but caught nothing. After travelingeight miles, we camped for noon. On the opposite side of the river were relics of an old Indian town. In the afternoon, we traveled seven miles and camped on Clear Creek which had a hard gravel bottom, the first of the kind we had found on the road. We killed one wild goose, and saw fresh signs of buffalo where we camped, the first we had seen. Brothers Young, Kimball, Richards, and I went on to a high bluff to view the country.
"Just at dusk, a tremendous alarm was given through the camp. The Indians had crawled up and taken Porter Rockwell and his horse and made off with them. Many men mounted their horses and rode after them with all speed, but it was soon discovered that Rockwell was in camp. Only two horses were gone. They belonged to Dr. Richards and Brother Little. About twenty men, mounted and armed, went in search of the horses.
"On the morrow we continued our journey in a southerly direction to try to get on the Platte River. We came to some beautiful green grass, saw a great many buffalo signs, but found no wood or water. We baited our horses in a green valley after twelve miles' travel.
"Just as we were starting in the afternoon, we rose to a small bluff and saw two antelopes in the valley before us. Brothers Young, Kimball, and myself were together. Brother Brown and another brother were on the other side of the hill and saw them also. Brother Brown first fired at one, and then the other man and I fired. We all hit him, but he did not fall, so we rode up and cut his throat. This was the first antelope killed. He was dressed and put on board the wagon, and we continued on and in a short time saw three more looking at us from the top of a mound. Brother Brown and I went after them, but could not get them, so we turned about ten degrees east of south and went to the creek and camped. Our cattle and horses were very dry, not finding any water during the day. We had a heavy storm of thunder, lightning, wind, and some rain which lasted about an hour.
"A rifle went off in Brother Brown's wagon by accident and the ball went through a bag of clothes, set it on fire, then through the wagon, and broke the leg of a fine horse. The result was the breaking up of one of the teams of the pioneer company.
"Brother Rockwell and three others had gone in the morningagain in search of the horses which the Indians were supposed to have stolen. Toward evening they returned and reported that they had been attacked by fifteen Indians, who were in ambush in the grass. They came upon them, determined to take their horses from them, but the brethren kept them off by their rifles and pistols. The Indians were armed with guns and bows. When they found that they could not scare the brethren, they professed friendship to get to them; but the brethren were resolute and determined not to move but to fight, though only four to fifteen. The Indians finally rushed upon them to catch the horses by the bits. The brethren drew their pistols upon them, determined to fight and do their best. The Indians, seeing their determination, broke and ran, but fired their guns upon the brethren. The balls whistled around them, but no one was injured. The brethren did not return the fire, not wishing to kill any of them if they could help it."
The morning of April 28th the company reached the eastern end of Grand Island. There Elder Woodruff accompanied the hunters, but a wolf and a goose were all they secured. In the evening, they camped on Wood Creek. Great numbers of deer could be seen on the island, but President Young thought it dangerous to cross over, as the Indians might be in ambush.
The morning following was very cold. The camp was moved at five o'clock; and after a drive of three miles, a stop was made for breakfast. Here the hunters explored Grand Island which they found covered by rushes and cottonwood. The grass was now in greater abundance. The cattle and horses were greatly in need of improved feed; and better grazing meant the entrance into the lands of the deer and buffalo. They saw great numbers of antelope, but could not reach them. The hunters killed four geese. Elder Woodruff killed two of them and shot one deer which he could not overtake.
On May 1st the pioneers were well into the home of the buffalo. It was a great day for the hunters and welcomed by the pioneers who were greatly in need of fresh meat. Those who knew President Woodruff's ardent love of the chase will read the experience of his first buffalo hunt with some appreciation of what that day meant to him.
"This was an interesting day to the hunters of the camp of Israel. The pioneers made an early start, and after traveling six miles, camped for breakfast on the prairie in sight of a herd of buffaloes feeding on a bluff to the right of us. There were about two hundred. Three only of the hunters started out. They rode as near to them as possible and crawled along the grass, but the buffaloes became frightened and ran away. We had not traveled more than two miles farther before we discovered another large herd five miles before us. The hunters assembled and held a council. We determined to get some of the buffalo meat if possible. We traveled, however, with the camp until within a mile of the herd when a halt was made and fifteen hunters started together. Amasa Lyman and myself of the Twelve were with them. We went along together until we reached a bluff within a few rods of the herd and then divided, Brother Grover and Luke Johnson went on to the bluff, O. P. Rockwell and Brother Brown took the entire left, and so we divided into companies on the right, left, and center. I was with the company in the center of the herd.
"We all made a charge upon them from the bluffs and rushed on to the plain. The herd ran down the rough bluff into the plain, but when we reached the plain we soon overtook them, and each company singled out its game. We made choice generally of cows, then rushed up to the side of them and fired upon them with our pistols, which we found much better to carry than the rifles which were very cumbersome in running. The first we gave chase to was a cow with her calf. I rode up to her side and fired two balls, both of which took effect. The other brethren with me also fired at her until she was killed. I then ran my horse to the assistance of another party who had wounded one which was soon dispatched.
"I then saw that O. P. Rockwell had three bulls at bay on the prairie. Brother Pack and myself ran with our horses to his assistance. At the same time Brother Kimball came up. We surrounded them and commenced firing. They bolted ahead. I put spurs to my horse and ran in front and was within about a rod of them when they all pitched at me and gave me a chase for a fight. It hurried me to get out of their way. Two broke for the bluff and Brother Brown followed them; but Rockwell, Kimball, Pack,and myself stayed with an old bull. I fired two balls into him, Kimball one, and Pack one. The bull fell dead. We also shot a calf that was with him. I returned to Brother Brown on the bluff and found that one of the bulls to which he had given chase was wounded and had lain down; but Brother Brown having no more powder or ball, the bull got up again and ran into the herd on the bluff before I could reach him. We now all returned to our hunting ground to gather up the buffaloes we had killed, there being three cows, three bulls, and five calves, making eleven in all.
"In the morning, Brother Solomon Hancock had gone out to hunt buffaloes on foot. As he did not return in the evening, we felt greatly concerned about him; but in the morning he returned, having killed a three year old cow which he watched during the night to keep the wolves from eating her. Three wolves came upon him. He shot one and the rest ran away. This was our first day's buffalo hunt and we considered the results quite good in as much as we were all strangers to a buffalo hunt, very few of us having ever seen one before.
"We dressed our meat and the wagons came from the camp to take it in. A part of our chase was through an immense prairie dog town nearly ten miles long by two miles wide, with burrows at nearly every rod. This was very dangerous for our horses. My horse, in fact, ran into one and nearly fell, but no harm was done to any of the hunters by the prairie dog holes."
The next day was the Sabbath, "and all were busy cooking and saving their meat." In the afternoon, the camp was moved on three miles in order that better feed might be found. While the pioneers were in camp, a herd of buffaloes came to the river to drink at a place within two miles of the camp. The hunters were anxious to give them a chase, but President Young prevailed on them not to do so. It was not a work of necessity. Here the Indians impeded the progress of the company by setting fire to the prairie, which rapidly burned a large area of country. That evening Presidents Young and Kimball went ahead several miles to examine the fire and make general observations.
On Monday, the 3rd of May, the pioneers did not move camp on account of the weakened condition of the teams. A companyof twenty hunters were called to go in quest of game. "We started out with two wagons. I had taken a severe cold which had settled in my side where my bones had been broken last fall, and it made me sick and I was not fit for the hunt, yet I started with the hunters. I had shaken myself up badly the Saturday before and was now feeling the effects of it."
At the same time another party were out to explore the country ahead of them, as the Indians had been burning the grass for several days. After traveling about ten miles to and fro, and seeing no game, Elders Woodruff and Lyman began a retreat for camp. "We sat down upon the edge of a bluff in sight of the camp when a company of horsemen approached, bearing a red flag. When they came within a mile of us, we trailed our guns and went down to meet them. We were informed that the party who had gone up the river had come upon a camp of about four hundred Indian warriors, and that about one hundred of them had followed the party down a ravine to cut off retreat. These horsemen had gone out to call in the hunters. On their return the horsemen came on to a herd of buffaloes. They brought in with them three calves and four antelopes.
"During the night a strong guard was kept and early in the morning the cannon was fired twice to let the Indians know the company was awake. To provide against surprises, the wagons were driven five abreast. After traveling about five miles, some wagons were seen on the opposite side of the river, going down the Platte. One of their men waded the river to find out who the pioneers were and to learn what he could of their movements. They were traders from Fort Laramie, and had been on the way sixteen days from that place.
"The grass, he informed us, was good on the south side of the river, but burned on the north side by the Indians. He consented to carry letters for us to Sarpee who lived near Winter Quarters. Here the pioneers stopped long enough to write fifty-two letters. An epistle was written to the Church at Winter Quarters; and three of the brethren accompanied the Frenchman across the Platte, where they met the other men of his company, nine in all. They informed the brethren that they had not seen an Indian since they left Laramie where there was a ferry.
"We drove on three miles and let our teams graze until the brethren returned from the French traders. They made a report to the camp of what was said to them. A council of the whole company of the pioneers was then called to determine whether we should cross the Platte, or continue along the north side of the river. We were convinced that it would be better for us to cross the river on to the old traveled road to Laramie as there was good grass on that side, while the Indians were burning it off on the north side where we were traveling.
"When, however, we took into consideration the fact that other companies would soon follow and that we were the pioneers, and had not our wives and children with us, we thought it best to keep on the north banks and face the difficulties of burning prairies. A road would thus be made which would serve as a permanent route, independent of the old immigrant trail. There was the further consideration that the river would separate us from other immigrant companies that might be disposed to quarrel with us over grass or water. Besides, by the time the next company came along, the grass would be much better than on the south side of the river. A vote was called for, and the decision was unanimous that we continue along the north banks of the Platte. Col. Markham called the men together and drilled them in a military capacity. The cannon was unloaded and carried on wheels.
"The Frenchman informed us that he had never seen so many buffaloes on the route before as there were this season and that several times the traders were compelled to stop while the herds passed. We saw many deer and antelope today and a few buffaloes. At night we camped near a herd a short distance from us. We also afterwards learned that the alarm of the 3rd about the four hundred Indian warriors was a false one, and that a man had been frightened by a herd of antelope. He supposed them in the distance to be Indians."
The decision to keep the north bank of the Platte was justified by the needs of the people in the movements of subsequent companies, and the general lay of the country. Later, when the engineer applied the accuracy of his instrument to the scientific methods of road building, the old "Mormon Trail," as it was popularly called, was chosen for the Union Pacific Railroad whichcovered that "trail" for hundreds of miles. In the years of follow there was a rush to the gold fields of California. The frontiers-men of Illinois and Missouri who had given the Saints so much trouble were among the gold seekers. It was the part of wisdom to have between them and the migrating Saints the Platte River.
On May 5th a guard was kept in advance to keep the buffaloes from mixing with the cattle. In the afternoon, one cow and five calves were killed. A wounded bull calf was brought into camp with the intention of keeping it. It was true to its instincts and bunted men and dogs about whenever it could reach them. The day following, it died.
"We stopped for the night, but found the grass on fire and had to return a mile, and then camped on the bank of the river on a spot which had escaped the flames. Some, however, took their horses on to an island near by in the river and cut down cottonwoods, from the barks of which they fed."
On the morning of the 6th, an early start was made; and the camp, after traveling three miles, stopped where the grass was better for breakfast. "This morning the herds of buffaloes were numerous on both sides of the river and the antelope were in great abundance, some of which ran into camp. A young buffalo calf also came in and followed us. We gave it some milk and left it.
"As we continued our journey, we saw many herds of buffaloes and antelopes and one large herd of elk. Two antelopes were killed in the morning. As there was much meat in the camp already, it was thought best not to kill any more game than we needed. Dr. Richards, George A. Smith, and myself walked up quite near several herds of buffaloes and examined them through our glasses. They were shedding their coats. One bull had a mass of hair swinging by his side like a loose robe. Our herd of cows started to run among the buffaloes, but President Young galloped his horse to separate them and had great difficulty in doing so. He lost a glass worth forty dollars in the chase. We continued our journey among herds of buffaloes and were not at any time out of sight of them. They had eaten the grass to such an extent that there was little remaining for the cattle, and timber was also scarce. At night we camped near a herd of buffaloesthat reached as far as the eye could see. This day the camp made twenty miles."
The day following was given in part for rest for the cattle and horses. The meagre supply of grass made it necessary to lay over where there was any supply of feed. A part of the day was devoted to military tactics. Such drills had a double purpose. They prepared the men for discipline in case it became necessary to defend themselves against the Indians, and it further occupied their minds and consumed energy that might otherwise have made them restless, and dissatisfied. Porter Rockwell and those who went back with him in search of the field-glass, lost the day before by President Young, were successful. Others went ahead to mark out a road. Ever since the pioneers had left the crossing at Loup Fork, they were obliged to pioneer their way. Had they chosen to take the other side of the river, they would have found a road already made for them.
"We saw today ten thousand buffaloes, and came near one herd with an unusual number of calves, yearlings, and two-year olds. We also saw several large dead ones being devoured by wolves which could be seen on every hand following the herds to eat those that died by wounds and from other causes.
"The next morning, May 8th, was very pleasant and not so cold and windy as the day before. A start was not made until 10 o'clock as the teams needed rest and feed badly. I rode forward to-day with the Twelve and others, and the buffaloes that our eyes beheld were most astonishing. Thousands upon thousands would crowd together as they came from the bluffs to the bottom-land to go to the river and sloughs to drink, until the river and land on both sides of it looked as though the face of the earth was alive and moving like the waves of the sea. Brother Kimball remarked that he had heard many buffalo tales told, but never expected to behold what his eyes now saw. The half had not been told him.
"When we stopped at noon, many of the buffaloes walked along side of our wagons so that it would have been easy to shoot them down. O. P. Rockwell did shoot one through the neck and she dropped dead. It was a two year old heifer and good meat. Wehad great difficulty in keeping our cattle and horses from getting among the herds; and if they had got mixed, it would have been almost impossible ever to get them again.
"We traveled eleven and one-fourth miles this day until we came to the bluffs that made down to the river and then we camped for the night. Brother William Clayton had prepared a mile-gage on the hind wheel of his wagon so that the distance could be measured easily.
"Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, George A. Smith, and myself went on the highest bluff near by and took a survey of the surrounding country without glasses, and the scene before us, north, east, and west as far as our vision extended, looked as rough as the sea in a storm with the ridges and valley mostly sand and scarcely any green thing upon it except a little scattering grass, and the Spanish soap root, which the Mexicans used for washing. The top resembles a pineapple. I brought in one root twenty-four inches long and two inches in diameter. I pounded a little of it and found that it would fill a dish with suds like soap."
The bones of buffaloes had been more or less abundant since the company left Loup Fork. This probably indicated the eastern limit of the buffalo range. Among their bones there were frequently found skulls of human beings, probably Indians.
On Sunday the 9th the camp moved four miles and laid over for the day. Timber grew scarcer and the pioneers learned the value of the buffalo chip for making fires. At this season of the year, the cottonwood trees became green and were not fit for fires. "I wrote two letters for Brother Wolsen to take with him to Pueblo. One was to Brother Ferguson and the other to Brother Bevin. We had a meeting and a good one. The spirit of God ruled over the camp. Peace, quiet, and contentment pervaded almost every heart. The Twelve met and it was thought best for the brethren not to start for Pueblo until they arrived at Laramie. I rode with the Twelve and others four miles up the river and saw large herds of buffaloes come to water."
The tenth was cold, the thermometer standing at 33 degrees, with a moderate wind. Before leaving camp, a letter was put in a board by sawing an opening the width of the saw. It was nailedto a post which was planted firmly in the earth. The letter was for the next company which was expected along in six or eight weeks. On the board were the words: "Open this box and you will find a letter; 316 miles from Winter Quarters; Pioneers; Latitude 40 degrees." The letter contained an account of the journey.
The grass was so completely eaten off that the cattle were very poor and unfit for long journeys. The movement of the buffaloes was eastward and they ate everything before them. It did not require many days, however, at this season of the year for the grass to make a considerable growth. "We passed through some miles of dead grass which we burned to give new feed for the next company. It made a great fire indeed."
Here in the midst of the journey, more than 300 miles from the Missouri River, with scant material, and few mechanical appliances, the ingenious nature of man asserted itself to meet a daily desire to know just how far the pioneers were traveling each day. William Clayton writes under date of May 8, 1847:
"I have counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel in order to get the exact distance we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two, and sometimes four, miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning I determined to take pains in order to know for a certainty how far we would travel today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of one of the hind wheels of Brother Kimball's wagon, being the one I sleep in, in charge of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel exactly fourteen feet eight inches in circumference, not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360, not varying one fraction, which somewhat astonished me. I have counted all the revolutions during the day's travel and find it to be a little over 11 1/4 miles. According to my previous calculations we were 285 miles from Winter Quarters this morning before we started, and after traveling ten miles I placed a small cedar post in the ground with these words inscribed on it with a pencil. 'From Winter Quarters 295 miles, May 8, 1847. Campall well. Wm. Clayton.' Some have estimated the day's journey at 13 and some 14 miles, which serves to convince more strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance we travel, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into effect."
This tedious effort led to a mechanical contrivance which was later put into effect. Considering the circumstances of the pioneers, it was not a little extraordinary that such a rodometer should be constructed at such a time and under such circumstances. Here is a description of it: "Let a wagon wheel be of such a circumference, that 360 revolutions make one mile. (It happens that one of the requisite dimensions is now in camp.) Let this wheel act upon a screw in such a manner that six revolutions of the wagon wheel shall give the screw one revolution. Let the threads of this screw act upon a wheel of sixty cogs, which will evidently perform one revolution per mile. Let this wheel of sixty cogs, be the head of another screw, acting upon another wheel of thirty cogs; it is evident that in the movements of this second wheel, each cog will represent one mile. Now, if the cogs were numbered from 0 to 30, the number of miles traveled will be indicated during every part of the day. Let every sixth cog of the first wheel be numbered from 0 to 10, and this division will indicate the fractional parts of a mile, or tenths; while if any one should be desirous to ascertain still smaller divisional fractions, each cog between this division, will give five and one-third rods. This machinery (which may be called the double endless screw) will be simple in construction, and of very small bulk, requiring scarcely any sensible additional power, and the knowledge obtained respecting distances in traveling will certainly be very satisfactory to every traveler, especially in a country but little known. The weight of this machinery need not exceed three pounds."